XXXI

There are distinct evidences of blood-relationship between the savages

of Taiwan and the inhabitants of the southern islands of Japan proper.

Japanese who have lived long in Formosa confess that they cannot tell a

head-hunter from one of their own people merely by his features. To

Westerners the mountaineers look almost exactly Japanese, except that

the eyes seem a bit more liquid, a trifle wider open, with that wild

something in them of untamed animals which distinguishes the genuine

savage the world over. Not merely do their features suggest the same

origin as their would-be rulers; they are of about the same size and

build, perhaps a bit larger, thanks to their more open-air life. It is

coming to be believed by many that they and the Japanese are both Malay

tribes which history has driven in different directions. Possibly they

are the same people, who fought their way up from the south, this branch

getting side-tracked and lost among the mountain fastnesses of Formosa

and going, or remaining, wild, while the head-hunting propensities of

the other branch turned to more modern methods. It is a captivating

thought, and would make the “Jap man’s burden” all the more

justified—merely the task of reclaiming his own lost brethren.

[Illustration: Young braves of a wild Formosan tribe, whom he who cares

to keep his head might do well to avoid meeting far from the protecting

Japanese overlords]

[Illustration: A Japanized woman from the mountain-dwelling tribes of

Formosa]

[Illustration: One might not think to look at her that her father

probably had a dozen or more trophies in his slate-built skull-cupboard]

Certainly I had to look twice to recognize that the boys in a frontier

school at one of the advance stations in Taiyal-land, dressed as they

were in uniform kimonos of black and white plaid, were not what they

seemed at first sight, but the sons of men who were recently, and in

some cases probably still are, hunting the heads of their neighbors. In

fact, there was one man among the two score boys who had the right to

wear the hawk-feather of the successful hunter, a sturdy fellow of

thirty, still with that peculiar wild-animal look in his eyes, who was

in the same primary class as his son of six. It struck me that it would

be a more thankful job to try to teach the son, an impression in which

the Japanese teacher, in his pedagogue-gendarme uniform, bore me out.

In the camphor-camps and on the plantations where they accept employment

as the first step toward giving up their chief tribal pastime, the

savages work hard and are docile; those at least who are caught young

learn moderately well in school, and they are on the whole not bad

neighbors. In fact, we should get over the strange notion that because a

man has the hobby of collecting the skulls of his fellows rather than

postage-stamps or “old masters” he cannot also be in many ways quite an

agreeable individual. I know many a man purporting to be civilized with

whom I would much less rather go off on a camping-trip than with the

fiercest head-hunter I have ever seen—once we got on a proper footing as

to the inflated value I put on my own top-piece. It is said that doctors

and teachers can go safely anywhere among them, if they carry proper and

conspicuous credentials, and provided the Japanese will let them. The

visitor who gets permission from, or evades, the government guards and

goes at once to the chief of the tribe, makes himself popular by petting

the children, treating the sick, and other forms of courtesy, until he

has convinced his hosts that he is harmless, has rather a good chance of

bringing his head back to civilization on his shoulders. Yet it is well

not to gamble too recklessly. Though I have no illusions as to the

utility of that portion of my anatomy about the neck, I several times

had the feeling in Formosa that sturdy young men with disconcertingly

piercing eyes and distressingly large knives at their waists were gazing

at it with at least mild covetousness. Yet this may have been merely the

result of a guilty conscience.

In short, they are not bad fellows, once one can overlook their little

idiosyncrasy of gathering skulls that are not yet ripe for the

garnering. They make good chauffeurs, for instance; certainly we all

know chauffeurs who would make good head-hunters, and others whom we

would be delighted to turn over to the innermost tribes of Formosa. I

have already mentioned how no small number of these naïve children of

the mountains have degenerated into rickshaw-runners, though I doubt

whether they sprint between the shafts with anything like the vim that

they did in pursuing or saving a head. Nor should we be too hard on

them; for it is the old, old story,—the women are the cause of all the

trouble. It seems that no self-respecting mountain girl will marry a

youth who has not proved his male prowess by taking a head; and when

life without a companion becomes too miserable to be endured there is

nothing for the most kind-hearted young Taiyal to do but to dig or

bridge his way over the electric barrier, bringing his weapons and his

provisions with him, and wander up and down the border, perhaps for

weeks, until the chance comes to bring home proof of his manhood. True,

a human head is required on every other important occasion in savage

life. A lad not only cannot win a bride but he cannot join the adults in

the tribal “club-house” until he has performed this manly feat; the

savages must have new skulls for the seed festival each autumn, for

without them their gods would not give them good luck during the year to

follow; they need them whenever they hold any religious rite or perform

any of the ceremonies with which life is marked; when a dispute occurs

between members of a tribe the decision goes to the one who first gets a

head; the man with the most trophies in his “skull-shelf” becomes

automatically the chief of his tribe. They have come to consider the

custom indispensable to their existence, just as we do clothing or

automobiles. Yet who can say that if the women did not force them to

make that first start in the evil habit they would ever succumb to it on

the later and less important occasions in life?

What a pity, too, that transportation is so costly and communication

between kindred souls on opposite sides of the earth so difficult!

Otherwise the head-hunters of Formosa might share the same heads with

their brethren in the habit, the _jívaros_ of the upper Amazon, and

either reduce by half the consumption of raw materials or double the

finished product. For whereas the _jívaros_ remove all the bones and

shrink the rest of the head down to the size of an orange, the Formosans

care nothing for the flesh or the most comely face but prize only the

bare, freshly boiled skulls. These are placed before the home of the

proud hunter, upon or in a “skull-shelf,” sometimes a mere straight

counter of bamboo, more often a cupboard made of slate, with a

pigeonhole for each skull, quite like our post-office boxes, so that in

calling upon your head-hunting friend you can tell his importance in the

Taiyal scheme of things just as easily as one of our own countrymen can

see whether or not there is any mail for him at last, without hindering

the postmaster from weighing out sugar or cutting up plug tobacco.

But life has become bitter and drab indeed among some of the tribes of

Formosa, especially near the guard-line, where they are so hard pressed

by unkindly civilization that they have come perforce to be satisfied

with monkey-skulls! I am not in a position to state what kind of wives

these poor degenerates get, but the imagination easily pictures the old

men of the tribe grumbling about the worthlessness of the new generation

and telling the “club-house” that things were not like this in the good

old days when men were men. The Japanese assert that their police or

their troops have at one time or another been through virtually all the

savage territory, in such force as was necessary, and that they have

destroyed most of the “skull-shelves.” Thus monuments of art always

suffer before the ruthless military conqueror! But the more genuine of

the savages insist on starting new collections, and now and then it is

the Japanese themselves who contribute trophies with which they have

parted with the most poignant regret. The different tribes who still

honor the ways of their forefathers continue to exchange heads between

themselves; within the past year there are known to have been at least

three Formosan Chinese heads taken, though the Japanese claim to have

passed this twelvemonth without any such physical loss of face. There is

no record of the savages of Formosa ever having taken a Caucasian head.

It may be that they have heard rumors of recent doings in the Western

world and have decided that such skulls cannot be of any use to them;

or, again, the records may be incomplete, for this is one of the

unkindnesses of man toward man which the victim very rarely has the face

to report to the police.

Glimpses of Japan and Formosa · 第 35 / 38 题