XXX

The three principal mountain tribes of Formosa are in turn officially

subdivided, for convenience’ sake as much as for any ethnographic

reason, into nine groups, besides one semi-civilized tribe living under

ordinary district administration among the Formosan Chinese and Hakkas.

The latest census, taken partly, I suspect, by absent treatment,

estimates the savages at 131,609, and credits them with living in 670

villages, large and small. It should be borne in mind, however, that

three or four huts in some little, almost inaccessible clearing may

constitute a village in the wild man sense; they do not go in for

metropolises. I have my misgivings about the exactness of that final 9

in the population figures, and particularly of the precise 2999 men—with

2753 women—who are still reckoned as “uncontrolled.” Surely the

enumerators might have found, or “estimated,” just one more man and made

it a round number. However, there are few peoples more meticulous than

the Japanese, and they inform us that 47,015 of the mountaineers are

“under control and residing within administrative districts,” while

78,842 are “under control, but residing outside administrative

districts.” The wisest travelers will probably not take too seriously

the word “control” as applied to this last and latest group.

These tribes, who divide themselves into many clans, between which

fighting and even head-hunting may be legitimate, hold more than half

the island, even without rolling it out level, which would vastly

increase their area. Of the three main divisions, the ferocious Taiyals,

who tattoo themselves blue in the face, are the fiercest, the most

persistent, and the most successful head-hunters; and they hold

approximately the northern half of the wild territory. The others,

perhaps because man grows less energetic toward the south, are more or

less amenable to civilizing influences. Below the precarious trail

across almost the center of the island all except some small groups

about the foot of Niitakayama, who still occasionally perform barbarous

acts, are virtually domesticated; and to-day the Taiyals are the only

consistent head-hunters. With them head-hunting is the most important,

the most glorious thing in life. Their effete southern neighbors engage

mainly in agriculture, legitimate hunting, fishing, and cattle-raising;

but the southern half of the mountainous territory is poor, too rugged

to be arable in most places, yet even without any great amount of timber

except about Arisan and Mount Morrison.

The Ami, through the length of whose district runs the railway on the

precipitous east side of the island, are thought to be the most numerous

of the nine tribes; but as the chaotic territory of the aggressive and

powerful Taiyals has never been fully explored, it is impossible to be

dogmatic on this subject. There are a few groups in the heart of the

Taiyal region who have never come in contact with the outside world,

except by hearsay. But the Taiyal territory is very rich in forest

products; the valuable camphor-trees are probably still more numerous

and immense as one penetrates into the interior; there is said to be

gold—all of which will no doubt eventually be the undoing of these

sturdy children of the wilderness. For while the mere desire to make

good their claim of ruling over it might never lead even the aggressive

Japanese to complete the conquest of Taiwan, the world must have its

moth-balls and perfumes, and the camphor-tree grows too slowly to hope

that the laying out of camphor plantations by the foresighted Nipponese

will save the mountaineers of Formosa from destruction, whether in

warfare or by the slower but quite as fatal method of submitting to

civilization. Slowly but surely the effeminate non-head-hunting world is

pressing in upon them; yearly the guard-line which surrounds them is

shrinking.

For the savages are completely fenced in. The _aiyu-sen_, or guard-line,

is a cleared space, from fifty to a hundred feet wide, climbing over

hill and dale completely around the uncontrolled territory. It is

started by cutting a road along the crest of a mountain, then destroying

the vegetation on either side of this far enough back so that the guards

can see attacking savages in time to defend themselves. This system

dates back to the reign of Ch’ien-Lung, toward the middle of the

eighteenth century, when the Chinese paid tamed savages to protect them

against the others. Corruption grew up, as is inevitable in Chinese

affairs, until the settlers were forced to establish guard-lines at

their own expense, sometimes hiring the irregular troops commonly, and

often erroneously, known in China as “braves,” sometimes doing the

guarding themselves, turn and turn about. Similar things exist in many

parts of the anarchistic China of to-day. There was little and at times

no government supervision, and corruption increased. Those who became

chiefs of the guards protected their own property splendidly but had no

time to bother with that of others. Very little government guarding

remained when the Japanese took over the island. They began by

recognizing and paying the semi-public guards, but as soon as they had

put down the “Formosan rebels” in the lowlands they took over the

corralling of the savages themselves, and now all guards are government

employees, members of the police force.

To-day the guard-line is about three hundred miles long. It is

constantly being changed, as the Japanese conquer new territory in order

to take in more camphor-trees or to punish a district that has grown too

insolent to be endured, so that the savages are gradually but surely

having their holdings reduced. Not infrequently, thanks to the naïveté

of all savages, the Nipponese have reached an agreement with the wild

men as to the advancement or the “rectification” of the _aiyu-sen_;

sometimes they must fight for it.

This last resort is a hazardous undertaking. The abrupt condition of the

mountain fastnesses of the Taiyals in particular is beyond the mere

stay-at-home imagination to picture. There are sheer slopes cut with as

many as eight hundred steps along the guard-line, almost perpendicular

precipices of thousands of feet; sometimes it crosses great chasms by

precarious bridges—there is one suspension-bridge of rattan and wire

more than four hundred feet long. As water must be carried to the tops

of the hills, in sections of bamboo, as well as everything else to be

used by the expedition, the work is not only hard but dangerous, many

coolies having been killed in the past; and the carriers are rarely

volunteers. Hence there is a tithing system by which each village can be

made to supply its quota of workmen, though these are paid good Formosan

wages. Some of the tamer tribes can be made into baggage-carriers, and

there are not a few savages as guardsmen, mostly if not entirely from

the southern part of the island. The weather is as treacherous as the

savages; sudden mist, torrential rain, and what the Japanese at least

consider “bitter” cold, hamper the punitive expeditions. Yet the guards

along the _aiyu-sen_ are fighting somewhere more or less all the year

around.

Except for the commanders, in comparatively safe places, there are now

very few Japanese guardsmen; nearly all of them are Formosans,

island-born Chinese or tamed savages, who, at last report, were paid

from seven to fifteen yen a month, according to grade and length of

service, an allowance during punitive expeditions, and a hundred yen for

their grieving families if they were killed in line of duty. A favorite

scheme has always been, even before Japanese days, to get one savage

village to kill off another by putting a price on the heads taken, thus

making it possible for the skull-gatherers to kill two birds with one

stone, as it were. The Japanese will tell you that this has never been

government policy but that “individual policemen do it, strictly against

orders”—the same excuse we heard in Korea, and from our own pacifiers in

Haiti. Outspoken Nipponese confess that some of the outrageous acts of

the head-hunters, as when they rose one night not many years ago and

slew all the Japanese in a border district, are due to the misconduct of

the Japanese or Formosan guardsmen, particularly the world-wide and

age-old misdemeanor of “fooling with the women.”

As a general rule, given the difference in temperament between the two

divisions, suppression is the policy toward the fierce northern tribes

and development toward the more gentle southerners, though there are

mixtures of the two treatments. The Taiyals are treacherous, like all

true savages, as well as ferocious and brave. These tattooed savages of

the north had long experience with Chinese authorities before the

Japanese came; hence they are adepts at chicanery. They make an

agreement with the Japanese to let them into a new district, and then

attack their camphor-stills, perhaps destroying the whole camp, cottages

and all. When they have been generously filled with _sake_ at some

“savage-station” along the guard-line they have often turned upon their

“benefactors” and carried their heads home as souvenirs of the festive

occasion. There have been some real North American Indian massacres;

they have been known to destroy entire Formosan villages; one battle

with the Taiyals cost 272 casualties among the Japanese and their

assistants—and in savage warfare the dead are far more numerous than the

groaning. When these little misunderstandings become acute, the Japanese

have two ways of clearing them up,—by sending out a punitive expedition

or by blockading the savages, cutting off their right to barter with the

outside world until they come to terms. By this latter method they have

been made to rebuild camphor-stills and cottages, the whole camp

complete.

At very frequent intervals along the _aiyu-sen_ there are gates, a group

of police buildings, and three or four guards. Every fourth or fifth of

these is a “superintendent’s station,” with a Japanese commander, a

doctor, perhaps another official or two. An inspector is in charge of

each group of four or five of these superintendencies; there is, of

course, a telephone system around the entire guard-line. It is only at

these superintendents’ stations that the savages are allowed to barter

with the outside world, and that barter is only permitted on condition

that they obey the instructions of the authorities, furnish reports on

various tribal affairs, and so on. Except for armed expeditions against

them, which are costly in money and often in lives, the only effective

punishment which the Japanese can mete out to naughty savages is to take

away their right to barter their forest products and game for the things

they covet or require. If they are good little children their overlords

give them agricultural implements, seeds, medicine, medical treatment,

and in some cases even allow them guns and ammunition. Neither savages

nor those who live outside the guard-line are allowed to pass it without

a special permit. Even against wild men with slight requirements and

plenty of natural resources, who ought to be able to supply themselves

everything they need, this economic pressure is often sufficient to make

them behave. When it is not, there is nothing to do but “lose face” or

fight.

Head-hunting, like many other sports, is double-edged, and the savages

have long been familiar with the thought of losing their own skulls.

Hence they are very formidable enemies. The Japanese have constructed

bullet-proof, loopholed forts, barbed-wire entanglements, mines, and

wire fences, the latter in some places locally electrified by harnessing

mountain streams; hand-grenades, sometimes mountain- and field-guns, are

used; on the east coast war-ships have occasionally been called upon to

subdue belligerent villages. The electric barriers are widely notorious,

but even those residents not very friendly to the Japanese admit that

they use them to protect themselves, not in the hope of exterminating

the savages whom they have not yet succeeded in subjugating. Besides,

the savages are nobody’s fools. Perhaps one or two of them electrocuted

themselves when the scheme was first introduced, more than a decade ago,

but the burnt child of nature also learns to avoid the fire. Now they

dig holes under the electrified fence, or build bamboo stiles over

it—they are expert bridge-builders, as the many suspension-bridges of

rattan and bamboo which they have thrown across great mountain chasms

and torrential gorges testify—and men in need of heads come over or

under the barrier in the dead of night, or at some momentarily unguarded

spot, armed with rifles, with which they are suspiciously well supplied,

though spears, long curved machete-like knives, and slender bows and

arrows are perhaps more general, and lie in ambush for victims.

But it may be that a more modern method, one that has proved effective

in many another land, will do away with the necessity of using armed

force to complete the conquest of Formosa: drink is doing for the

savages almost as fast as it is for those Americans who cannot bring

themselves to accept prohibition. Among the Taiyals also wood-alcohol is

said to be almost as free as air—except in price and after-effects. It

is rumored that the Japanese are not insisting on complete abstinence in

the mountains, and it would be more or less human if they look not too

severely upon a certain amount of head-hunting among the tribes

themselves, so long as they respect the taboo on those outside the

guard-line. For the thinner the population the sooner the mountainous

territory will be subdued and the greater the amount of it that can be

exploited. The holders of Taiwan promise to set aside reservations for

the savages as they take in more of their estate, and probably on the

whole they are handling the situation as fairly and humanely and

efficiently as we would; as we have, for instance, in Santo Domingo or

the Philippines.

Glimpses of Japan and Formosa · 第 34 / 38 题