XVII

Persons in a position to know something about the subject tell us that

Japanese husbands are “almost all” unfaithful. I take it that they refer

to those who can afford to be; certainly the great mass of haulers and

carriers, of mud-wading rice-growers, would scarcely have the time or

the means to indulge in extramarital relations. The facts seem to be

that rather a large number of men of means maintain two and even three

households, usually in at least a pretense of ignorance of each other;

and that the almost government-owned _yoshiwaras_ in every city of size

are prosperous, while questionable hotels abound from end to end of the

empire. Part-Japanese women we met asserted that they would under no

circumstances marry Japanese men, not even to gain high rank, alleging

that the average native husband is not only maritally untrustworthy but

treats his wife brutally—whatever that may mean. As some of these ladies

had already stuck it out bravely to the beginning of middle age, we are

forced to give their testimony due weight. Yet there is certainly little

active outward evidence of all this, but the appearance of model

propriety everywhere—except in one notorious respect.

Even the cynical traveler comes to the conclusion that, for all the

striking differences between their ways and our ways, the Japanese are

really civilized—until he sees a man in faultless European attire,

carrying a portfolio that suggests he may be a cabinet minister, calmly

take off everything except his scanty underwear and change to a kimono

in a first-class car occupied by ladies. Among men somewhat lower in the

social scale, yet far enough above the brute to know better, personal

exposure often reaches the incredible. It may be pleasant in summer to

wander across town or the length of an empire in bath-robe and slippers,

but there are times and places that the unconcealed human form is out of

place. I am no prude, and I realize that in some matters we

English-speaking people are secretive to the point of silliness; but

certainly in this respect the Japanese are as much at fault in the other

direction.

Their unseemly exposure or behavior is, to my mind, another form of

discourtesy to woman, another evidence of her unimportance in the

Japanese scheme of things. For, however often they may assure us that we

misjudge because we do not understand, we of the West—I think I may

safely make the statement general—do not admire the Japanese conception

of the position of women. While one of that sex is to a large extent the

power behind the throne of a mad mikado, and there is considerable

copying, at least outwardly, of Western manners among the profusion of

nobility, the wealthy, and the traveled, to the overwhelming mass of the

nation a wife seems still to be merely a married servant. I shall not

soon forget the half-horrified, even though subtle, expression of

astonishment of our Tokyo host because my wife had not stayed up to tuck

me into bed when I returned from a theater toward midnight. I have no

choice but to judge from his manner that Japanese wives always do. In

Japan a woman is trained never to sit down until all the men present

have done so; and with a Westerner suddenly introduced into a Japanese

household the variance of custom in this respect is likely to result in

a standing-match. This relative position is maintained all down the

line; the men are always first. Again it may be only a difference in

point of view; even the Japanese woman would consider it highly immodest

to precede her husband or a male relative. Nor am I sure where the

greatest wisdom prevails,—in Japan, where they spoil the men, or in the

United States, where we do our best to spoil the women. Adversity,

however, is said to be beneficial to the character, and Japanese women

are almost superhuman in maintaining a cheerful demeanor and a smiling

countenance under any and all circumstances.

The Japanese have so often been called “Oriental Prussians” or “Germans

of the Orient” that we found it amusing to trace evidences of similarity

between the two races. These are, to tell the truth, rather numerous.

Both countries have—unless one of them has lost it since the World War—a

docile, hard-working population accustomed to little individual thinking

in political matters, ruled by a powerful oligarchy of overlords with a

very warlike past and traditions. Like the Germans, the Japanese might

use the word “_kriegen_” interchangeably as “to obtain” or “to make

war”; both fought their way to the top—or to wherever they are to-day.

In both countries the military man considers himself, and strives, not

infrequently by rudeness, to make others consider him, the lord of

creation. Both are forced to resort to emigration or expansion to ease

the over-pressure of a prolific population and of excess energy within

their borders. Both are a disciplined people; in both countries what

seem to us questionable methods are used to twist the gullible mass mind

into the shape which best suits the ruling class; both are likewise

given to another form of propaganda in the hope of increasing their

national stock abroad; both indulge in what we might frankly call

spying, though they may think it merely gathering useful information

about their neighbors. Every Japanese, like every German, is potentially

a spy—or shall we merely say an agent?—of his government wherever he may

be; for you may be sure that any slightest item of information of

interest to that government which he may run across will be duly

communicated to it. With both nations patriotism seems to be above mere

personal morals; in the ancient Japanese language “government” and

“worship” were the same word.

One might continue picking up likenesses, on minor as well as on

important matters. As in Germany, a man or a woman stands at military

attention holding a flag at a prescribed angle whenever a train passes a

grade-crossing. The same unhilarious conscript soldiers, and haughty

officers who do not often deign to return their exaggerated salutes,

their bullet heads emphasized by close-cropped hair, overrun both

countries. Students in uniform caps, a great prevalence of thick

eye-glasses that are reminders of the similar intricacy of their printed

pages—if one took time to hunt out all the resemblances the list would

be endless.

Some of the Germanness of Japan, such as her army and her medicine, is

frankly copied; no small amount of it is unconscious yet perfectly

natural, in view of the considerable similarity in their histories and

their temperament. For, remember, Japan has always been militant, has

always been fighting, if only between her own clans, ever since she took

the islands that now constitute the empire from the Yemishi, or Ainus,

or whoever held them first. Likewise there has never been a let-up in

learning, nor a lack of bravery and similar virtues. We are so

accustomed to speak of the “sudden rise” of Japan that we are prone to

think of the Japanese as did the ignorant Portuguese and Spanish

_conquistadores_ who “discovered” them, as did the bigoted churchmen who

followed those forceful adventurers,—as heathen “gentiles” much like the

Indians of America. Indeed, they probably looked upon these newfound

islands as quite like newly discovered America, or the neighboring

Philippines, as filled with savages whom it was not only their privilege

but their duty to bespoil to the best of their ability, and incidentally

to reduce to the “true faith.” Whereas Japan had been a civilized land

centuries before the Portuguese and the Spanish emerged from

barbarism—and the mere fact that, disgusted with the “true faith”

brought by these rapacious and narrow-minded wanderers, they drove them

out and shut themselves up within their own boundaries for more than two

hundred years is no reason to have supposed that they could not adopt

modern civilization, at least in its more graspable aspects, quickly,

especially as they had long been accustomed to imitate, to take whatever

seemed good to them, from China or Korea or whatever other neighbor had

something to offer. No wonder the Japanese policeman detailed to attend

a Fourth of July celebration in Japanese territory, when he received the

answer to his query as to how long ago this independence that was being

celebrated had been won, greeted it with the Nipponese form of “Good

Lord! Is that all?”

[Illustration: There are no rickshaws on the island of Miyajima; hence

we had to trust even our most precious belongings to a _ninguruma_, or

baggage-cart]

[Illustration: A view of Beppu, famed for its hot springs at the head of

the Inland Sea, on Kyushu, southern island of Japan proper]

[Illustration: A Shinto monument, with the famous watering-place of

Beppu in the background]

But the mere fact that they are so capable of imitation, so able to

profit by the experience of others, is curbing their militant spirit, if

I have not misread the signs. They see the point of recent events; even

their stiff-necked and short-sighted military oligarchy seems to be

coming to realize that they are half a century too late to enlarge their

place in the sun by mere force of arms, that other no less strenuous, if

less bloodthirsty, methods have come, perhaps permanently, to the fore.

Thus though one still now and then sees, or at least feels, the old

_samurai_ spirit among the militarists of Japan, the wish to take the

short cut by force, the frankness of primitive man peering out from

beneath their pride and their superimposed reticence and their rather

stupid politenesses, one has the feeling that the nation perhaps is

getting over it, though it may still have a long way to go. Imitation is

double-edged, however, and let the world turn its back on what it

recently professed to believe is a bygone form of rivalry and there is

but little doubt that the Japanese will be able to execute an about-face

quite as quickly as any other nation. That the old tendency to think

first of a resort to arms whenever national desires are crossed, and

only later to consider wiser counsels, was recently shown in the quickly

wide-spread demand for war with the United States over the Supreme Court

decision on the California land laws and congressional insistence on

curbing the admission of Japanese immigrants.

The popular feeling of Japan toward our own people seems constantly to

swing like a pendulum. As I write, there is considerable anti-American

agitation; a bare year ago there were marked professions of friendship;

the year before that we were in their black books because of some other

now forgotten incident; the American traveler in Japan can no more gauge

the feeling toward him on any given day than he can guess the rate of

exchange between his money and that of Europe. Nor will it often matter

much; at worst the superficial Japanese courtesy may wear thin, their

gift for red-tape gymnastics reach its highest rather than its lowest

ebb. Certainly he will be in no more physical danger than at home, and

his money will always be welcome to the sourest face he meets. When I

first journeyed through Japan, a score of years ago, even the

rickshaw-men were offensively cocky over the defeat of the Russians,

which they considered proof of their superiority over all the white

race. To-day the nation seems to take a somewhat more modest view of its

achievements, though by no means unaware of its progress and, at bottom,

probably just as convinced of its place in the vanguard of mankind, if

something less given to publicly announcing it.

For a time at least there was a strong run of sentiment in our favor, on

account of the international conference on disarmament, the results of

which seem to have been on the whole pleasing to every one except the

militarists—who, it must be remembered, are often the most vocal. The

fact that there has as yet been no reduction in the heavy burden of

taxation under which the nation has long staggered has not made it

possible for the man on the street to hope that there soon will be, and

the belief is wide-spread, even if not freely expressed to strangers,

that what might almost have amounted to national bankruptcy has been

averted by the Washington agreement. Not that the man on the street

gives much thought to the actions of his Government, by our standards,

or considers his personal opinion on national affairs, if he has one, of

any importance. It is said that there is considerable liberalism and

even radicalism under the surface of the placid, mikado-worshiping life

of the Japanese; but in so far as any frequent visible evidence of it is

concerned, all Japan suggests some of the hotels and public

gathering-places of South America, which bear large placards to the

effect that “The discussion of politics is strictly forbidden.” Some of

the editors of native newspapers are occasionally outspoken, notably in

the “Osaka Mainichi,” which at times has the aspect of a really free

press; but these are concerned rather with individual men and very

general issues than openly with the government; and it is significant

that the slightest hint of levity toward the mikado or anything

pertaining to him is frowned upon by all classes.

Undue attention to any subject is prone to enlarge it beyond its natural

proportions. As a nation we have come, with our national tendency for

exaggeration, to think of the Japanese either as supermen or

devils—depending largely upon the part of the country from which we

hail. They are neither, but merely human beings, perhaps a bit superior

to the average, take the world as a whole; of moderate intelligence,

high diligence, strong imitative ability or an unusual capacity to

realize that the experience of others may be worth profiting by; of a

national homogeneity and loyalty equal to that of a well-knit family;

prone, like the rest of us, to be spoiled by too much power over those

they consider, perhaps rightly, their inferiors; with a tradition of

getting things, nationally, by force; extremely distrustful of the

intentions of others; and with the very human trait of trying to put

their best foot forward, even to the extent of an occasional falsehood.

Not easily gauging the psychology of other races, at least of the West,

they are somewhat clumsy with the propaganda they carry on in their own

favor, such as newspapers of their own in English in the Far East, under

the sincere belief that they are compelled to combat by some such means

the hostility of their neighbors and the jealousy of trade rivalries.

Like some other over-sensitive persons and peoples, they want only good

said about them, as if the world might thereby be made to believe that

they are terrestial angels.

We may not like the Japanese; the great majority of Westerners in the

Far East are vociferous in proclaiming that they do not, and certainly

they have some unlikable qualities. But what would we do in their shoes?

Sixty million of them are crowded into a space equal to one of our

Western States, with the sight constantly before them of Occidental

aggression taking virtual possession, even if only in the name of

“protectorate” or “sphere of influence,” of almost all the Orient, and

the realization that they are virtually the only strictly self-governing

nonwhite race on the globe—it is small wonder if they seem over-wary.

Most Americans who are conscious of any opinion at all on the subject

profess to have more liking for the Chinese or the Koreans than for the

Japanese—and I rather think I am one of them. But with our national

trait for rooting for the under dog are we not sometimes given to

squandering our sympathies on weak and whining people and of distrusting

strong, self-reliant races? Perhaps the Japanese are worse than I judge

them to be after a brief sojourn among them; but few civilizations have

equaled them in unity and longevity, in the sense of race loyalty, and a

willingness to sacrifice themselves on the altar of good citizenship—for

all the recent ugly stories of “graft” worthy of anywhere in the West;

and, whatever else they may be, we must give them credit for being

to-day the only self-contained and constructive civilization in almost

half a world of weakness and semi-anarchy.

Glimpses of Japan and Formosa · 第 20 / 38 题