ARRIVAL IN CALCUTTA--DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH-WESTERN FRONTIER--ARRIVAL
AT MERUT--STATE OF AFFAIRS ON THE NORTH-WESTERN FRONTIER--THE SIKH
MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT--THE BRITISH POSITION.
After two years' absence, early in October, 1845, I disembarked from
one of those monster steamers at Calcutta, by whose assistance the
months occupied in our former intercourse with India are reduced to
weeks, and the probability of arrival, not only to a day, but almost
to an hour. Not ten years ago I remember hearing an eminent lecturer
in London prove to the complete satisfaction (apparently) of a crowded
amphitheatre, that steam communication with India, via the Red Sea and
Arabian Gulf, _was impossible_. We were told that the monsoons, the
shoals in the Red Sea, and the tornadoes which rush from the gullies
across its fatal waters, were too much even for the iron heart of
a steamer to encounter; and should any fortunate passengers escape
these evils, the sands of the desert between Suez and Alexandria were
prepared to overwhelm the caravan of presuming adventurers.
The practical comment of 1846 and some preceding years, has reduced
these imaginary terrors to their proper value; and a railroad across
the Isthmus, if the Pasha have the wisdom to benefit his country and
many others, by adopting the suggestions of British engineers, will
bring India three days nearer to Europe. Steam has so far substituted
time for distance, that I am sure I shall be excused for adopting the
modern change of terms. Miles and other barbarous terms may continue
to be used for many years to come in uncivilized climes, but who would
think of talking of the number of miles between London and Bristol,
when the Great Western authorities announce it to be, by express,
precisely two hours and forty-five minutes.
When will this happy system of railroads be applicable to India? or,
rather, when will it be applied? for a more favourable surface for
operations could hardly be selected in the world, and the advantages
to Government are incalculable. A British force, after defeating the
Burmese on the banks of the Burhampooter, might be steamed up to
the Sutlej in time to repulse the malignant Sikhs before supper the
following evening, and then proceed on their tour of conquest as long
as the steam could be kept up or an enemy found.
These may be termed little more than idle visions to the patient
sufferer who is about to undergo a transportation to the upper
provinces of Bengal, at the mournful average of three miles an hour, if
the weather be favourable--considerably less if a heavy fall of rain
should occur; and in October, 1845, the rain did come down in real
earnest, as I left Calcutta.
I shall not pause to acquaint the reader with the latitude and
longitude of Calcutta, neither will I expatiate on the beauties of
Government House, or the relative numbers and merits of the Hindoo and
Mussulman inhabitants. As the gazetteer can give that and much more
valuable information on the same head, I will not rashly enter into
competition with one possessed of so much general information, but
refer the curious to its pages, whilst I invite the less particular to
accompany me in a journey to the south-western frontier, and I will do
my best to entertain my companions.
Hearing that there was no necessity for being in the upper provinces
just now, inasmuch as the governor-general, and all India, except the
_Delhi Gazette_, seemed bent to maintain the most profound peace ever
known in Hindostan, I gladly seized the opportunity of paying a visit
to a valued friend dwelling amongst the jungles of the south-western
frontier.
In company with a brother officer, who was travelling the same road, I
embarked in a palanquin amidst the torrents of rain which descended in
streams, threatening to convert our sturdy little bearers into strong
resemblances of water-rats.
We managed, fortunately, to ford the Damooda river before the storm
had attained its maximum, or the journey might have been seriously
interrupted, for during very heavy storms this river is subject to
violent inundations, when a rolling column of water, several feet in
height, and resembling the bore[7] on the Ganges, rushes down the
river's course, flooding the neighbouring country, and causing many
calamities. On the right bank of the Damooda was a shed, which afforded
a partial shelter to our exhausted palanquin bearers, and here we
rested in hopes of the tempest abating.
About midnight, a lull took place, and we proceeded, the bearers
staggering with difficulty through the swamp, which the surrounding
country had now become. Travelling that night, and the following day,
with the tempest bursting in fitful gusts, we reached the dwelling of
an indigo planter, in the lonely jungles, late in the evening, where we
were hospitably received, and rested a few hours.
At midnight we proceeded _en route_, and arrived, as the day broke, on
the bank of a swollen torrent. The primitive mode of crossing, which
we were compelled to adopt, was by means of a raft, made of bamboos,
bound together, crosswise, over a dozen large earthenware jars.[8]
Trusting to the declared experience of our bearers, we embarked on this
singular conveyance, the natives swimming alongside, and safely landing
everything on the opposite shore in two or three expeditions. Whilst
our bearers were engaged in this manner, I observed, a few yards above
the raft, something resembling a rope being dragged across the torrent,
and running down to the edge to ascertain what it was, an enormous
serpent landed beside me, and departed, without any delay, into the
woods. Although the stream was running with great rapidity, he had made
nearly a direct course across the torrent.
We proceeded onwards, during the whole day, through a heavy jungle,
scarcely meeting with any human abode--except the small sheds where our
relay of bearers awaited us, at the end of each stage of ten or twelve
miles--whilst the storm of rain continued with unabated vigour. At
nightfall we reached another torrent, or nullah, as they are called in
India, where our progress seemed altogether arrested, for it proved to
be more than ten feet deep, was running like a sluice, and no raft of
any kind was procurable; nor did our attendants seem disposed to make
any attempts; they remarked that an indigo shed was close at hand, and
that we should be all drowned if we attempted to cross. Then patiently
seating themselves, they looked steadily in our faces to await the
decision. The choice was not a matter of difficulty; we preferred the
indigo shed to being drowned, hoping that by daybreak the waters might
in some degree subside.
The ancients indulged their mirth at the simplicity of the
"Rusticus expectans dum defluat amnis."
Yet the inhabitants of India have been pretty often constrained to
adopt the practice.
The indigo shed, after some demur on the part of the native in charge,
was opened for the reception of our palanquins and travelling cases,
which had long since been thoroughly soaked. We soon found that we
were not destined to be the sole tenants of the shed, for the swarms
of mosquitoes exceeded any display of the kind I had seen before. We
obtained a jar of charcoal to boil the kettle for our frugal meal of
tea and biscuits, which soon produced a suffocating sensation. We left,
in hopes of being rid of our tormentors by this expedient; but they had
not apparently the same objections as ourselves, and were buzzing with
renewed delight and welcome on seeing us return. In vain we closed the
doors of our palanquins, and nearly stifled ourselves with heat; our
active enemies forced a passage through the crevices of the blinds;
they would not be baulked of their rightful food, and it was evident
that a white victim was no ordinary delicacy.
We anxiously watched for the break of day, and when the dawn was
perceptible, arose from our restless mats, stirred up the sleeping
establishment, and proceeded to the banks of the nullah. The weather
had moderated a little, and, about mid-day, the water had sunk to
about five feet, which gave rather a precarious ford. As the deep part
was not very wide, though exceedingly rapid, our bearers consented
to make the passage with the empty palanquins on their heads, and
afterwards to carry each article separately, whilst we stripped and
took the water in support of the sable army. This mode was practised,
and successfully performed, though the passage of the palanquins was
rather precarious: to have lost them in these wild jungles would have
been an irreparable disaster.
From hence, our journey through the jungles and hilly country, which
we afterwards entered, was slow, but unobstructed. In many parts, the
country was eminently beautiful; especially so in the neighbourhood of
Ranchee, where dwelt the excellent and hospitable friend, to visit whom
had been the object of my journey.
The Kholes, who inhabit this tract of country, lay claim to be
aborigines of Hindostan; nay, more: they designate themselves as the
first people created, "except the English," added a polite barbarian,
who was recapitulating the claims to antiquity, with this unfortunate
exception, which tended to overthrow the whole fabric.
Early one morning, as we were sitting in the verandah of my friend's
house, two inhabitants of a neighbouring village made their appearance,
and began a most dolorous tale regarding the devastations committed
among their kindred by a cruel ghost, to eject which they solicited the
sahib's aid.
"It is well," replied the controller of spirits; "go, the ghost shall
be caught."
With a submissive reverence due to such power, the two gentlemen in
black took their departure, evidently satisfied with the success of
their mission.
The ghost complained of was the cholera, which pays frequent visits to
this country, but rarely resides more than a few days in a village,
when he takes wing in search of fresh victims.
A chuprassie, or messenger, dressed in the belt and insignia of office,
is sent to the village, and ordered to await until the scourge abates;
and as imagination, beyond a doubt, has much influence in this disease,
the arrival of the chuprassie, sent officially to catch the ghost, has
no doubt a salutary effect on the superstition of the sufferers; and
probably, on leaving, there is not a soul in the place foolhardy enough
to doubt that the ghost has taken his departure under the chuprassie's
belt.
In this part of India, a few years back almost unknown, and affording
a safe asylum for the predatory tribes of Pindarrees until the wise
policy of Lord Hastings' government uprooted those daring tribes of
banditti, the most profound tranquillity now prevails. The natives have
learned, not only to respect, but to love, the mild authority which
has restored the golden era, enabling all to repose in security, and
to lead the life of inoffensive simplicity for which the Hindoo is
eminently qualified, but which the oppressive rule of the Mussulman
conquerors long forbade him to enjoy.
The climate in this hilly district is temperate, presenting a
favourable contrast to the execrable damp heat of Calcutta, at the
close of the rainy season. The numerous conical hills, hinged with
thick jungle, afford an agreeable change of view to one accustomed
to the monotonous flat surface of the Bengal provinces from the
Rajemal to the Himalayah mountains; and these belts of jungle merit
the sportsman's attention, owing to the colonies of tigers, bears, and
leopards which seek their shelter. In the thick forests and prairies,
further to the west, is found a large beast of the bison kind,[9] whose
courage and ferocity recommend him to the most adventurous of Eastern
sportsmen; indeed, few would enjoy the daring toil and sport long,
unless provided with a heart and eye correctly placed.
My visit to these alluring regions, and to the residence of my kind and
valued friends, will always continue the most pleasing recollection
afforded by my sojourn in India; but that happy time was curtailed by
letters which reached me from Upper India. The aspect of affairs on
the north-west frontier, upwards of a thousand miles distant from
my present abode, was so warlike, that I felt it my duty to lose no
time in prosecuting that long and tedious journey, as my regiment were
cantoned in a neighbourhood which rendered the requisition for their
service a certainty, in case of hostilities ensuing.
Sending on our palanquins and bearers in the morning, we followed, in
the afternoon, on elephants, through the heavy jungles and deep, gloomy
ravines; and, travelling at a rate of about five miles an hour, reached
Hazarebaugh in the course of the next day.
Some of the Ameers of Scinde,[10] who had been recently deposed, were
then residing at this deserted cantonment under surveillance, and we
paid them a visit in the evening, accompanied by the officer in charge.
They were living in spacious bungalows, under little restraint, and
with many of their own people around them. Were it not that those
who have once been possessed of power seem to languish under its
loss--should the privation have been involuntary--I should have said
that the Ameers had more reason to be contented with their present lot
than when placed at the head of a lawless and warlike race, whom they
were unable to control, and of whom they stood in constant dread.
But the recommendation of sages, and the advice of poets, "privatus ut
altùm dormiret," have been alike disregarded; and although, from the
reign of Commodus to the accession of Constantine, every Roman emperor,
save Claudius, was assassinated, yet was there no dearth of candidates
for the fatal purple.
On informing the Ameers that we had recently arrived from England, they
eagerly questioned me as to the probability of their reinstatement.
They smiled incredulously, when I told them I was in no way connected
with the India house, and unable to afford them any information. We
then conversed upon Scinde, which I told them I had visited on a former
occasion, when with Sir John Keane's force, and they politely declared
that they remembered me well, an Asiatic _façon de parler_, for during
my Scindian tour, I had not seen one of the Ameers of the present party.
After an exchange of trifling presents, we took our leave of the
Ameers, and the same night left Hazarebaugh in our palanquins. After a
hot and tedious journey along the main trunk-road, resting for two or
three hours during the heat of each day at the government bungalows,
erected for that purpose, we reached Cawnpore. At this place, we found
that a great improvement[11] had taken place in the mode of travelling,
by placing the palanquin on a truck drawn by a horse, which is relieved
every ninth or tenth mile, and the traveller is thus enabled to proceed
at the rate of eight miles an hour in lieu of three.
I accomplished the journey to Merut in about thirty hours, having had
only one upset, and a few trifling bruises; for the horses seemed to
have come to an understanding with each other that they were to take
any direction, at first starting, but that of the main road. At almost
every stage, this system of bolting was attempted; but when once
impelled to a canter, they seemed generally to acknowledge the error of
their former ways, and to atone for it by making the best and steadiest
progress in their power. Though occasionally some headstrong novice
would try the effect of a few rapid swerves, he generally got the worst
of it in the end, receiving pretty smart chastisement from the native
driver, accompanied by torrents of abuse bestowed on the delinquent and
his whole generation, frequently intermingled with most opprobrious,
and doubtless unmerited, epithets on his mother and sisters. This
is, I am sorry to say, but too common a practice amongst the natives
throughout India; whenever man or beast offends them, they are in the
habit of retaliating immediately on his inoffensive female relatives.
Thus, lovely woman is ever wont to become the meek and unsuspecting
victim of him who should have been her protector; from Queen Pomare
to Mrs. Caudle, in modern times, from Medea to Xantippe, in ancient,
they are always right, and almost invariably suffer wrong. The main
cause of this injustice may be attributed to their having neglected to
maintain their undoubted right to a voice and seat in the legislature;
and though, from amiable weakness, or more laudable modesty, they have
hitherto refrained from urging their claims, it is base oppression to
take advantage of such honourable causes of reluctance. If a type of
power be wanting, it may be adduced at once; for did not the greatest
political despot of these, or any other times, refuse to accept office
until her Majesty would assent to change her female friends? A general
revolt, especially if the fair rebels only held out long enough, would
be certain of ultimate success. I speak only with regard to civilized
countries; for in the East, there are reasons which might interfere
most materially with the success of such a proceeding.
On my arrival at Merut, I found all parties deeply interested in the
news daily arriving from the frontier; the question of peace or war
decidedly held the next place in importance in the estimation of the
European community after that of the impending race meeting.
As the Merut races may not afford matter of so much general interest
elsewhere as they did in the north-western provinces of Bengal, I will
enter first on the question of secondary importance.
Notwithstanding the hostile attitude assumed by the Sikh army, Sir
Henry Hardinge continued to declare publicly his pacific wishes and
intentions, though, as a precautionary measure, the British regiments
had been drawn from the lower provinces of Bengal to strengthen the
north-western frontier.
The Sikh soldiery had held the upper hand of power since the demise of
Runjeet Singh, and, having elected their own Punchayut to legislate in
all matters connected with the army, an increase of numbers and advance
of pay had been the consequence, although the latter still continued
some months in arrears. The Ranee had continued to hold the name of
regent for her child Dhuleep Singh; and, being possessed of much
address and natural cunning, she had contrived to retain some semblance
of authority over the soldiery. Many of the sirdars, being possessed
of considerable wealth and a proportionate suite of dependents, might,
had they been united, have held a counteracting influence; but, in the
present state of affairs, they were compelled to seek popularity with
the soldiery as the most probable means of advancement. Those who of
late had held the responsible office of vizier, had found little cause
to exult in the precarious honour; for, when unpopular with the army
or brought into collision with rival chiefs, a bullet or a cimeter had
speedily ended their career. The last and recent victim had been the
Ranee's own brother, Jowahir Singh.
The winter was now far advanced; the main body of the Sikh army
assembled, as usual, at Lahore, or in its vicinity; and none of the
sirdars having of late become particularly obnoxious,[12] the soldiery
were at a sad loss in the selection of some victim to satisfy their
thirst for blood and plunder.
The idea soon suggested itself (home being nearly exhausted) to look
abroad for conquest and rapine. The most obvious and tempting prize
for their cupidity was Hindostan. The wealth of Delhi, Agra, Benares,
Calcutta, were proverbial; and the hateful Feringhees, what masses of
rupees must lay hidden in their store-houses! The British troops were
much scattered about the face of the country; many of the sepoys might
probably be induced to desert by the promise of increased pay; and were
not the Khalsas assembled together, ready for action, and irresistible?
These reflections were carefully fomented by a representation that the
governor-general was on his progress to the frontier, and had resolved
to demand from the Sikhs a cession of all lands on the British side of
the Sutlej.
What could be more conducive to the interests of the Ranee and many
of the sirdars than these projects? What easier than to write to the
British authorities a lamentation of her inability to restrain the
licentious soldiery? Should they be repulsed, the British government
must place them in a tractable and organized condition, but could
never deprive an inoffensive child, and the hereditary successor to
the throne, of its rights, for acts unauthorized by his advisers. The
moderation of the Indian government, in its successes against the
native powers, warranted such a conclusion. On the other hand, should
the Sikh army be successful, they must look to the Ranee in authority
at Lahore for numerous requisites to be supplied for the army in
the progress of the campaign, and in case of success how faithfully
they would have been supplied. Does the matter admit of a doubt? Her
faithful and confidential adviser, her more than friend, marched with
the forces, as second in command, Rajah Lal Singh.[13]
Of late, the Ranee had devoted herself much to intoxicating liquors,
and had indulged so freely that, according to the accounts forwarded
by the governor-general's agent, Major Broadfoot, she had lost much of
the energy and intelligence which used to mark her character; nor was
she by any means singular in this propensity, for the greater portion
of the Sikh sirdars followed zealously in the steps of their mistress.
The Shalimar gardens, a few miles distant from Lahore, have witnessed
scenes of drunkenness and debauchery, unparalleled, perhaps, in any of
the capitals of modern Europe. The letters from the governor-general's
agent on the north-western frontier, from May 8th to August 10th, 1845,
will throw as true a light on the occupation and morality of the court
and army of Lahore as could be sought or desired.
Rajah Ghoolab Singh,[14] the richest and most powerful of the chiefs,
having narrowly escaped the fury of the soldiery, on a recent occasion,
at Lahore, and being, moreover, unpopular with the Ranee, remained in
his own territories at Jamoo, in the hill districts, wisely resolving
to watch the progress of events, now evidently hurrying to a crisis,
and to play his own game in due season, which, in the sequel, it will
be acknowledged, he executed in masterly style. He was continually
invited and urged to descend and take a part in the impending
hostilities, but was so earnestly engaged in making preparations on an
extensive scale that it took him many weeks to reach the capital.
On more than one occasion the Sikh army had actually marched from
Lahore towards the Sutlej, with the avowed intention of invading the
British territories, but had, on second thoughts, returned to Lahore to
discuss the matter once more.
The most effective branch of the Sikh forces were the Aeen battalions,
whose discipline and formation had been the result of many years'
exertion, in the days of Runjeet, on the part of European officers in
his service. Their arms and uniform resembled much that of our native
troops, except the peculiar Sikh turban; and, until the revolutions
which succeeded Runjeet's death, their discipline had been strictly
maintained. As the officers who had brought them to a state of
efficiency and discipline had all either left the country, died, or
been otherwise summarily disposed of, the general supposition was that
these troops would no longer be very formidable, but this impression
proved incorrect. The Aeen forces have occasionally varied in strength
and numbers, but amounted at this time to sixty battalions, whereof
about forty were with the army of Lahore, and the remainder principally
quartered in the neighbourhood of Peshawur.
Six hundred men constituted the full effective strength of each
battalion, and to each were attached its own four pieces of cannon with
their complement of artillerymen.
The Sikh artillery we had seen at exercise on former occasions, and
their fire was known to be rapid and tolerably accurate; they had,
in fact, enjoyed the reputation of being, in all respects, the best
appointed arm of their service. All had been done that lay in our
power to render them effective, for, on previous occasions, when the
governor-general paid his visits to the Lahore Durbar, it had been
usual to present the best pieces of artillery procurable, which served
for excellent models in the Lahore arsenal.
The Sikh Regular Cavalry had been abolished, and replaced by hordes
of irregulars; and as no petty chief in the Punjaub appears on public
parade without a band of armed retainers, generally well mounted and
equipped, the irregular cavalry were almost numberless.
There were also some corps of irregular infantry or Bundookcheras;
these irregulars, both cavalry and infantry, might, on emergency, be
mustered to a numerical force at least double that of the regular
troops.
With an enemy of this description assembled forty miles from the
British frontier, and with fords innumerable along the line of the
Sutlej, between Ferozepore and Loodiana, during the cold season, it
must be acknowledged that the game was not an easy one to Sir Henry
Hardinge, when desirous of appearing peaceably disposed.
By the treaty of 1809, Runjeet Singh bound himself not to cross
any armed parties into the protected Sikh states, beyond what were
necessary for the collection of revenue; and when any large body of
troops were moved, an intimation of the march and the causes was
always sent to the British political agent. The vizier, Jowahir Singh,
insisted that this custom should be abolished, alleging that the Lahore
government had a right to send over any body of troops they might deem
requisite to suppress disturbances occurring in the lands in question,
without awaiting for the permission of the British authorities. The
protected Sikh chiefs, being mostly possessed of lands on both sides
of the Sutlej, concurred in Jowahir Singh's views, which tended to
establish their own independence, by permitting the passage of troops
from their possessions on one bank, to those on the other--a measure
evidently at variance with our interests and security, as it must
render all efforts to ascertain the numerical force of armed parties in
the Cis-Sutlej states abortive.
The actual assemblage of an army on the Sutlej was considered, by Sir
Henry Hardinge, unadvisable, as tending to display hostile intentions
on our part, and likely to cause a rupture with the Sikh forces in
their present excited state; yet, by refraining from such a measure,
our frontier was exposed, at any time during the winter and spring,[15]
to the ravages of an army which might commit serious depredations
before a British force could be assembled to oppose it.
The forts of Ferozepore and Loodiana were perfectly secure; the former,
being constructed on modern principles, and garrisoned by British
troops, might have held out as long as required; but both cantonments
and native towns were exposed to the will of the enemy. This was
a fundamental error in both positions, which, being thrown so far
forward from any support, should have been actually fortresses only,
constructed on the best modern principles, and unencumbered by large
towns and indefensible cantonments.
On the British side of the river, the population in the protected
Sikh states being intimately connected with that of the Punjaub, and
many portions of the land actually the property of Sikh sirdars with
the army, it is natural to suppose that we possessed but doubtful
friends in case of their being called upon. On the other hand, it was
maintained that the position of these lands would be a guarantee for
the good behaviour of their owners residing in the Punjaub, whose
interests would probably suffer in case of a rupture.
The Rajah of Puttealah, the most powerful chief residing in the
protected states, had long been a firm ally of the British Government,
but his power to restrain his followers was doubtful; at the best, no
doubt was entertained that they would not act in offensive measures
against their Sikh kinsmen.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 7: Though from a different cause, the bore of the Ganges
proceeding from spring tides forced up the narrow gorge of the Bay
of Bengal; that on the Damooda, from the inundation bursting its
obstructions.]
[Footnote 8: If there happen to be rocks in the stream, a strike is apt
to prove fatal to the raft.]
[Footnote 9: Known in India as the "gour." Those who may be desirous of
reading an animated description of the pursuit of this noble game, will
find an article in the first number of the "Indian Sporting Review,"
signed "Junglee," written by a sportsman who has few rivals and no
superiors. He is the acknowledged monarch of the jungles, and long may
he reign.]
[Footnote 10: The remainder resided near Calcutta, at Dum-dum, the
artillery cantonment.]
[Footnote 11: The credit of this improvement is due to Lord
Ellenborough.]
[Footnote 12: Some of the soldiers had suggested the murder of the
sirdars, Lal Singh and Tig Singh (two chiefs of the army), as a
temporary amusement, but the majority being indifferent to the measure,
the subject was allowed to drop.]
[Footnote 13: Lal Singh's presence with the army was deemed, by the
Punchees, (military delegates,) a politic measure, and a sort of
security for the good behaviour of _her respectable_ majesty the Ranee.]
[Footnote 14: Ghoolab Singh, Soochet Singh, and Dyan Singh, were
three brothers who had risen to eminence in the time of Runjeet, from
comparative obscurity. The two latter fell, during the wholesale
massacres at Lahore, a short time ago.]
[Footnote 15: In the hot season, when the rains set in, the heavy
floods and inundations are a sufficient protection to the frontier.]