Since our arrival at the falls we have r_History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. 1. To the Sources of the Missouri, Thence Across the Rocky Mountains and Down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed During the Years 1804-5-6.

coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west.

It is heard at different periods of the day and night, sometimes when

the air is perfectly still and without a cloud, and consists of one

stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is

loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound piece of ordnance

at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned

this noise like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had

paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition or

perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees

and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black

mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by

the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the

bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the

mountain. An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the

buffaloe seemed to have withdrawn from our neighbourhood, though several

of the men who went to-day to visit the falls for the first time,

mention that they are still abundant at that place. We contrived however

to spread not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of the

day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the

last of our stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even

so small a quantity, and as is usual among them on all festivals, the

fiddle was produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock,

when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued

however their merriment till a late hour.

Friday 5. The boat was brought up into a high situation and fires

kindled under her in order to dry her more expeditiously. Despairing now

of procuring any tar, we formed a composition of pounded charcoal with

beeswax and buffaloe tallow to supply its place; should this resource

fail us it will be very unfortunate, as in every other respect the boat

answers our purposes completely. Although not quite dry she can be

carried with ease by five men; her form is as complete as could be

wished; very strong, and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with

her complement of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been unlucky

in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a

point merely, although a large thong was used in order to fill the hole,

yet it shrinks in drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the

boat will leak.

A large herd of buffaloe came near us and we procured three of them:

besides which were killed two wolves and three antelopes. In the course

of the day other herds of buffaloe came near our camp on their way down

the river: these herds move with great method and regularity. Although

ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each other over a space of

many miles, yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit they will be

uniformly travelling in the same direction.

Saturday 6. Last night there were several showers of rain and hail,

attended with thunder and lightning: and about day break a heavy storm

came on from the southwest with one continued roar of thunder, and rain

and hail. The hail which was as large as musket balls, covered the

ground completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during the

day and served to cool the water. The red and yellow currant is abundant

and now ripe, although still a little acid. We have seen in this

neighbourhood what we have not met before, a remarkably small fox which

associates in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but

have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are extremely

vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest alarm to their burrows

which are very deep.

Sunday 7. The weather is warm but cloudy, so that the moisture retained

by the bark after the rain leaves it slowly, though we have small fires

constantly under the boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged

to use the sails to keep off the bad weather. Our buffaloe skins too,

are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the men are now

dressing others to replace their present leather clothing, which soon

rots by being so constantly exposed to water. In the evening the hunters

returned with the skins of only three buffaloe, two antelope, four deer,

and three wolf skins, and reported that the buffaloe had gone further

down the river; two other hunters who left us this morning could find

nothing except one elk: in addition to this we caught a beaver. The

musquitoes still disturb us very much, and the blowing-flies swarm in

vast numbers round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light

shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning.

Monday 8. In order more fully to replace the notes of the river which

he had lost, and which he was prevented from supplying by the storm of

the twenty-ninth ult. captain Clarke set out after breakfast, taking

with him nearly the whole party with a view of shooting buffaloe if

there should be any near the falls. After getting some distance in the

plains the men were divided into squads, and he with two others struck

the Missouri at the entrance of Medicine river, and thence proceeded

down to the great cataract. He found that the immense herds of buffaloe

have entirely disappeared, and he thought had gone below the falls.

Having made the necessary measurements, he returned through the plains

and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party had killed only

three buffaloe, three antelopes and a deer; they had also shot a small

fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel somewhat larger than those of

the United States.

The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in the afternoon. The

boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat of the

composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next

morning,

Tuesday 9, she was launched into the water, and swam perfectly well: the

seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her,

as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting out a violent

wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to

unload them. The wind continued high till evening, when to our great

disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had

separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that

the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch

is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we

therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having

had so much labour in the construction. We now saw that the section of

the boat covered with buffaloe skins on which hair had been left,

answered better than the elk skins and leaked but little; while that

part which was covered hair about one eighth of an inch, retained the

composition perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we

perceived that had we employed buffaloe instead of elk skins, and not

singed them so closely as we have done, carefully avoiding to cut the

leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even with the

present composition, or had we singed instead of shaving the elk skins

we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too late: the

buffaloe had deserted us, the travelling season was so fast advancing

that we had no time to spare for experiments, and therefore finding that

she could be no longer useful she was sunk in the water, so as to soften

the skins and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. It now

became necessary to provide other means for transporting the baggage

which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall want two

canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of the Muscleshell river to

this place, we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way.

The hunters however who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention

that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about

eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance by

water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for our

purposes. Captain Clarke therefore determined to set out by land for

that place with ten of the best workmen who would be occupied in

building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to

pieces and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage

and join them with the other six canoes.

Wednesday 10. He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the

river with his party, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance

by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two

cottonwood trees, but on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow,

split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom.

He searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would suit

better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had

felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the

deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a

loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes

of which not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such a

manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day,

though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was

the chokecherry.

The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it

in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from fort Mandan to

this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less

importance. After this we amused ourselves with fishing, and although we

had thought on our arrival that there were none in this part of the

river, we caught some of a species of white chub below the falls, but

few in number, and small in size.

Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had set sail in the

morning, with part of the baggage to the place where captain Clarke had

fixed his camp, but the wind was so high that he only reached within

three miles of that place, and encamped for the night.

Thursday, July 11. In the morning one of the canoes joined captain

Clarke: the other three having on board more valuable articles, which

would have been injured by the water, went on more cautiously, and did

not reach the camp till the evening. Captain Clarke then had the canoes

unloaded and sent back, but the high wind prevented their floating down

nearer than about eight miles above us. His party were busily engaged

with the canoes, and their hunters supplied them with three fat deer and

a buffaloe, in addition to two deer and an antelope killed yesterday.

The few men who were with captain Lewis were occupied in hunting, but

with not much success, having killed only one buffaloe. They heard about

sunset two discharges of the tremendous mountain artillery: they also

saw several very large gray eagles, much larger than those of the United

States, and most probably a distinct species, though the bald eagle of

this country is not quite so large as that of the United States. The men

have been much afflicted with painful whitlows, and one of them disabled

from working by this complaint in his hand.

Friday, 12. In consequence of the wind the canoes did not reach the

lower camp till late in the afternoon, before which time captain Lewis

sent all the men he could spare up the river to assist in building the

boats, and the day was too far advanced to reload and send them up

before morning. The mosquitoes are very troublesome, and they have a

companion not less so, a large black gnat which does not sting, but

attacks the eyes in swarms. The party with captain Clarke are employed

on the canoes: in the course of the work serjeant Pryor dislocated his

shoulder yesterday, but it was replaced immediately, and though painful

does not threaten much injury. The hunters brought in three deer and two

otter. This last animal has been numerous since the water has become

sufficiently clear for them to take fish. The blue-crested fisher, or as

it is sometimes called, the kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of

the river; it is a bird rare on the Missouri: indeed we had not seen

more than three or four of them from its entrance to Maria's river, and

even those did not seem to reside on the Missouri but on some of the

clearer streams which empty into it, as they were seen near the mouths

of those streams.

Saturday 13. The morning being fair and calm captain Lewis had all the

remaining baggage embarked on board the six canoes, which sailed with

two men in each for the upper camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian

woman, he left the encampment, and crossing over the river went on by

land to join captain Clarke. From the head of the Whitebear islands he

proceeded in a southwest direction, at the distance of three miles, till

he struck the Missouri, which he then followed till he reached the place

where all the party were occupied in boat-building. On his way he passed

a very large Indian lodge, which was probably designed as a great

council-house, but it differs in its construction from all that we have

seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form of it was a circle

two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the base, and composed

of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their

thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size of a man's body:

they were distributed at equal distances, except that one was omitted to

the east, probably for the entrance. From the circumference of this

circle the poles converged towards the centre where they were united and

secured by large withes of willow brush. There was no covering over this

fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, and

round it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a number

of turtledoves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one differing in no

respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. The country exhibits

its usual appearances, the timber confined to the river, the country on

both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely destitute of trees

or brush. In the low ground in which we are building the canoes, the

timber is larger and more abundant than we have seen it on the Missouri

for several hundred miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds

reach about two feet high, being the tallest we have observed this

season, though on the high plains and prairies the grass is at no season

above three inches in height. Among these weeds are the sandrush, and

nettle in small quantities; the plains are still infested by great

numbers of the small birds already mentioned, among whom is the brown

curlew. The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buffaloe

have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three in very good

order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for as we

reserve our parched meal for the Rocky mountains, where we do not expect

to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the

consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party,

amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, one buffaloe every twenty four

hours. The musquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so

that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers, with which we are all

provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of

which we preserved specimens.

Serjeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoes five miles up the river,

but the wind becoming so high as to wet the baggage he was obliged to

unload and dry it. The wind abated at five o'clock in the evening, when

he again proceeded eight miles and encamped. The next morning,

Sunday, July 14, he joined us about noon. On leaving the Whitebear camp

he passed at a short distance a little creek or run coming in on the

left. This had been already examined and called Flattery run; it

contains back water only, with very extensive low grounds, which rising

into large plains reach the mountains on the east; then passed a willow

island on the left within one mile and a half, and reached two miles

further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the same side. In the course of

another mile and a half he passed two islands covered with cottonwood,

box-alder, sweet-willow, and the usual undergrowth, like that of the

Whitebear islands. At thirteen and three quarter miles he came to the

mouth of a small creek on the left; within the following nine miles he

passed three timbered islands, and after making twenty-three and a

quarter miles from the lower camp, arrived at the point of woodland on

the north where the canoes were constructed.

The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, and were

enabled by the evening to lanch the boats, which now want only seats and

oars to be complete. One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three

feet in length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between

three and four miles over the rocky bluffs to a high situation, two

miles from the river, a little below Fort Mountain creek. The country

which he saw was in most parts level, but occasionally became varied by

gentle rises and descents, but with no timber except along the water.

From this position, the point at which the Missouri enters the first

chain of the Rocky mountains bore south 28° west about twenty-five

miles, according to our estimate.

The northern extremity of that chain north 73° west at the distance of

eighty miles.

To the same extremity of the second chain north 65° west one hundred and

fifty miles.

To the most remote point of a third and continued chain of these

mountains north 50° west about two hundred miles.

The direction of the first chain was from south 20° east to north 20°

west; of the second, from south 45° east to north 45° west; but the eye

could not reach their southern extremities, which most probably may be

traced to Mexico. In a course south 75° west, and at the distance of

eight miles is a mountain, which from its appearance we shall call Fort

Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms nearly a square,

each side of which is a mile in extent. These sides, which are composed

of a yellow clay with no mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise

perpendicularly to the height of three hundred feet, where the top

becomes a level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a

tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat of grass

similar to that of the plain below: it has the appearance of being

perfectly inaccessible, and although the mounds near the falls somewhat

resemble it, yet none of them are so large.

CHAPTER XII.

The party embark on board the canoes--Description of Smith's

river--Character of the country, &c.--Dearborne's river

described--Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of

discovering the Indians of the Rocky mountains--Magnificent rocky

appearances on the borders of the river denominated the Gates of

the Rocky mountains--Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of

the Missouri without overtaking the Indians--The party arrive at

the three forks, of which a particular and interesting description

is given.

Monday, July 15. We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the

canoes, which though light in number are still heavily loaded, and at

ten o'clock set out on our journey. At the distance of three miles we

passed an island, just above which is a small creek coming in from the

left, which we called Fort Mountain creek, the channel of which is ten

yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to an island

opposite to a bend towards the north side; and reached at seven and a

half miles the lower point of a woodland at the entrance of a beautiful

river, which in honour of the secretary of the navy we called Smith's

river. This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri,

and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course it wound

through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of

buffaloe were feeding, till at the distance of twenty five miles it

entered the Rocky mountains, and was lost from our view. After dining

near this place we proceeded on four and three quarter miles to the head

of an island; four and a quarter miles beyond which is a second island

on the left; three and a quarter miles further in a bend of the river

towards the north, is a wood where we encamped for the night, after

making nineteen and three quarter miles.

We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as the

greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower

too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to

this place, is here very abundant and in bloom. The lambsquarter,

wild-cucumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also common. Two elk, a

deer, and an otter, were our game to-day.

The river has now become so much more crooked than below that we omit

taking all its short meanders, but note only its general course, and lay

down the small bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width is

from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along the banks are

large beds of sand raised above the plains, and as they always appear on

the sides of the river opposite to the southwest exposure, seem

obviously brought there from the channel of the river by the incessant

winds from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great

distance below the falls.

Tuesday 16. There was a heavy dew last night. We soon passed about forty

little booths, formed of willow bushes as a shelter against the sun.

These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by

the Snake Indians, or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, as they

appeared from the tracks to have a number of horses with them. At three

and three quarter miles we passed a creek or run in a bend on the left

side, and four miles further another run or small rivulet on the right.

After breakfasting on a buffaloe shot by one of the hunters, captain

Lewis resolved to go on ahead of the party to the point where the river

enters the Rocky mountains and make the necessary observations before

our arrival. He therefore set out with Drewyer and two of the sick men

to whom he supposed the walk would be useful: he travelled on the north

side of the river through a handsome level plain, which continued on the

opposite side also, and at the distance of eight miles passed a small

stream on which he observed a considerable quantity of the aspen tree. A

little before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a low

ground well covered with timber, about four and a half miles below the

mountains, and obtained a meridian altitude, by which he found the

latitude was N. 46° 46' 50" 2"'. His route then lay through a high

waving plain to a rapid where the Missouri first leaves the Rocky

mountains, and here he encamped for the night.

In the meantime we had proceeded after breakfast one mile to a bend in

the left, opposite to which was the frame of a large lodge situated in

the prairie, constructed like that already mentioned above the Whitebear

islands, but only sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of

about eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been built during

the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a quarter miles we passed

ten islands, on the last of which we encamped near the right shore,

having made twenty-three miles. The next morning,

Wednesday 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance joined

captain Lewis at foot of the rapids, and after breakfast began the

passage of them: some of the articles most liable to be injured by the

water were carried round. We then double manned the canoes, and with the

aid of the towing-line got them up without accident. For several miles

below the rapids the current of the Missouri becomes stronger as you

approach, and the spurs of the mountains advance towards the river,

which is deep and not more than seventy yards wide: at the rapids the

river is closely hemmed in on both sides by the hills, and foams for

half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. The low grounds

are now not more than a few yards in width, but they furnish room for an

Indian road which winds under the hills on the north side of the river.

The general range of these hills is from southeast to northwest, and the

cliffs themselves are about eight hundred feet above the water, formed

almost entirely of a hard black granite, on which are scattered a few

dwarf pine and cedar trees. Immediately in the gap is a large rock four

hundred feet high, which on one side is washed by the Missouri, while on

its other sides a handsome little plain separates it from the

neighbouring mountains. It may be ascended with some difficulty nearly

to its summit, and affords a beautiful prospect of the plains below, in

which we could observe large herds of buffaloe. After ascending the

rapids for half a mile we came to a small island at the head of them,

which we called Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of

it, which is the first we have seen near the river for a great distance.

A mile beyond captain Lewis's camp we had a meridian altitude which gave

us the latitude of 46° 42' 14" 7"'. As the canoes were still heavily

loaded all those not employed in working them walked on shore. The

navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep but with little

current and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are

very narrow, with but little timber and that chiefly the aspen tree. The

cliffs are steep and hang over the river so much that often we could not

cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the

river to the other in order to make our way. In some places the banks

are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising perpendicularly to a

great height, through which the river seems in the progress of time to

have worn its channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual,

but it is still in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a

covering of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in great

abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, and more especially those who do

not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed of this plant for bread

or in thickening their soup. They first parch and then pound it between

two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a

portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other times they add a

sufficient proportion of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency

of common dough and eat it in that manner. This last composition we

preferred to all the rest, and thought it at that time a very palatable

dish. There is however little of the broad-leafed cottonwood on this

side of the falls, much the greater part of what we see being of the

narrow-leafed species. There are also great quantities of red, purple,

yellow and black currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste,

and much preferable to those of our common garden. The bush rises to the

height of six or eight feet; the stem simple, branching and erect. These

shrubs associate in corps either in upper or timbered lands near the

water courses. The leaf is peteolate, of a pale green, and in form

resembles the red currant so common in our gardens. The perianth of the

fruit is one leaved, five cleft, abbriviated and tubular. The corolla is

monopetallous, funnel-shaped, very long, and of a fine orange colour.

There are five stamens and one pistillum of the first, the filaments are

capillar, inserted in the corolla, equal and converging, the anther

ovate and incumbent. The germ of the second species is round, smooth,

inferior and pidicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens,

simple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the corolla until

the fruit is ripe, the stamen is simple and obtuse, and the fruit much

the size and shape of our common garden currants, growing like them in

clusters supported by a compound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in

this species, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not so

acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable flavour.

The other species differs in no respect from the yellow currant

excepting in the colour and flavour of the berries.

The serviceberry differs in some points from that of the United States.

The bushes are small, sometimes not more than two feet high, and rarely

exceed eight inches. They are proportionably small in their stems,

growing very thickly, associated in clumps. The fruit is of the same

form, but for the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They are

now ripe and in great perfection. There are two species of gooseberry

here, but neither of them yet ripe: nor are the chokecherry, though in

great quantities. Besides there are also at that place the box alder,

red willow and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some mountain

rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of any sort. After leaving

Pine island we passed a small run on the left, which is formed by a

large spring rising at the distance of half a mile under the mountain.

One mile and a half above the island is another, and two miles further a

third island, the river making small bends constantly to the north. From

this last island to a point of rocks on the south side the low grounds

become rather wider, and three quarters of a mile beyond these rocks, in

a bend on the north, we encamped opposite to a very high cliff, having

made during the day eleven and a half miles.

Thursday 18. This morning early before our departure we saw a large herd

of the big-horned animals, who were bounding among the rocks in the

opposite cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them

from all their enemies, and the only danger is in wandering among these

precipices, where we should suppose it scarcely possible for any animal

to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five

hundred feet into the water. At one mile and a quarter we passed another

single cliff on the left; at the same distance beyond which is the mouth

of a large river emptying itself from the north. It is a handsome, bold,

and clear stream, eighty yards wide, that is nearly as broad as the

Missouri, with a rapid current over a bed of small smooth stones of

various figures. The water is extremely transparent, the low grounds are

narrow, but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri; and it has

every appearance of being navigable, though to what distance we cannot

ascertain, as the country which it waters, is broken and mountainous. In

honour of the secretary at war we called it Dearborn's river. Being now

very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for the

purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as

to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with

a small party and endeavour to discover them, before the daily discharge

of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them

notice of our approach: if by an accident they hear us, they will most

probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies who

usually attack them on this side. Accordingly captain Clarke set out

with three men, and followed the course of the river on the north side;

but the hills were so steep at first that he was not able to go much

faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut off many miles of

the circuitous course of the river, by crossing a mountain over which he

found a wide Indian road which in many places seems to have been cut or

dug down in the earth. He passed also two branches of a stream which he

called Ordway's creek, where he saw a number of beaver-dams extending in

close succession towards the mountains as far as he could distinguish:

on the cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing this

mountain he encamped near a small stream of running water, having

travelled twenty miles.

On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a half miles a small

creek, and at six beyond it an island on the north side of the river,

which makes within that distance many small bends. At two and a half

miles further is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is

a small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above the creek is

a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and discharging itself with a

bold current on the north side: the banks are low, and the bed formed of

stones altogether. To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek,

after serjeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond this the valley widens:

we passed several bends of the river, and encamped in the centre of one

on the south, having made twenty-one miles. Here we found a small grove

of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, there being no longer any of the

broad-leafed kind since we entered the mountains. The water of these

rivulets which come down from the mountains is very cold, pure, and well

tasted. Along their banks as well as on the Missouri the aspen is very

common, but of a small kind. The river is somewhat wider than we found

it yesterday; the hills more distant from the river and not so high;

there are some pines on the mountains, but they are principally confined

to the upper regions of them: the low grounds are still narrower and

have little or no timber. The soil near the river is good, and produces

a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds; among these productions the

sunflower holds a very distinguished place. For several days past we

have observed a species of flax in the low grounds, the leaf-stem and

pericarp of which resemble those of the flax commonly cultivated in the

United States: the stem rises to the height of two and a half or three

feet, and spring to the number of eight or ten from the same root, with

a strong thick bark apparently well calculated for use: the root seems

to be perennial, and it is probable that the cutting of the stems may

not at all injure it, for although the seeds are not yet ripe, there are

young suckers shooting up from the root, whence we may infer that the

stems which are fully grown and in the proper stage of vegetation to

produce the best flax, are not essential to the preservation or support

of the root, a circumstance which would render it a most valuable plant.

To-day we have met with a second species of flax smaller than the first,

as it seldom obtains a greater height than nine or twelve inches: the

leaf and stem resemble those of the species just mentioned, except that

the latter is rarely branched, and bears a single monopetalous

bell-shaped blue flower, suspended with its limb downwards. We saw

several herds of the big-horn, but they were in the cliffs beyond our

reach. We killed an elk this morning and found part of a deer which had

been left for us by captain Clarke. He pursued his route,

Friday, 19, early in the morning, and soon passed the remains of several

Indian camps formed of willow brush, which seemed to have been deserted

this spring. At the same time he observed that the pine trees had been

stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman say

her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the

wood and bark for food. About eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and

killed two of them, but such was the want of wood in the neighbourhood

that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and he was

therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffaloe, with which he

cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old Indian

road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley watered by a large

creek, both of which extend a considerable distance into the mountain:

this they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a mountainous

country covered with sharp fragments of flint-rock: these bruised and

cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome than the

prickly pear of the open plains, which have now become so abundant that

it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so strong that they

pierce a double soal of dressed deer skin: the best resource against

them is a soal of buffaloe hide in parchment. At night they reached the

river much fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the

day and having travelled thirty miles. Captain Clarke's first employment

on lighting a fire was to extract from his feet the briars, which he

found seventeen in number.

In the meantime we proceeded on very well, though the water appears to

increase in rapidity as we advance: the current has indeed been strong

during the day and obstructed by some rapids, which are not however much

broken by rocks, and are perfectly safe: the river is deep, and its

general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards wide.

For more than thirteen miles we went along the numerous bends of the

river and then reached two small islands; three and three quarter miles

beyond which is a small creek in a bend to the left, above a small

island on the right side of the river. We were regaled about ten o'clock

P.M. with a thunder storm of rain and hail which lasted for an hour, but

during the day in this confined valley, through which we are passing,

the heat is almost insupportable; yet whenever we obtain a glimpse of

the lofty tops of the mountains we are tantalized with a view of the

snow. These mountains have their sides and summits partially varied with

little copses of pine, cedar, and balsam fir. A mile and a half beyond

this creek the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most

sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles

these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of

nearly twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near

its base, but from its lighter colour above and from the fragments we

suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream

colour. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning

darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with

destruction. The river, of one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems

to have forced its channel down this solid mass, but so reluctantly has

it given way that during the whole distance the water is very deep even

at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot except

one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the

towering perpendicular of the mountain: the convulsion of the passage

must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of

rock torn from the mountain which are strewed on both sides of the

river, the trophies as it were of the victory. Several fine springs

burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the

river, which has now a strong current, but very fortunately we are able

to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use

either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after

dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at

length about two miles above a small inland in the middle of the river

we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of

lightwood and pitchpine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the

Gates of the Rocky mountains. We had made twenty-two miles; and four and

a quarter miles from the entrance of the gates. The mountains are higher

to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some big-horns, a few antelopes

and beaver, but since entering the mountains have found no buffaloe: the

otter are however in great plenty: the musquitoes have become less

troublesome than they were.

Saturday 20. By employing the towrope whenever the banks permitted the

use of it, the river being too deep for the pole, we were enabled to

overcome the current which is still strong. At the distance of half a

mile we came to a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the

perpendicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, and the

vallies suddenly widen to a greater extent than they have been since we

entered the mountains. At this place was some scattered timber,

consisting of the narrow-leafed cottonwood, the aspen, and pine. There

are also vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several

species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the flavour of

which is preferable to that of the yellow, and would be deemed superior

to that of any currant in the United States. We here killed an elk which

was a pleasant addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates,

a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties itself behind an

island in the middle of a bend to the north. To this stream which is

fifteen yards wide we gave the name of Potts's creek, after John Potts,

one of our men. Up this valley about seven miles we discovered a great

smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss

to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain Clarke's

party, or by the Indians as a signal on their observing us. We

afterwards learnt that this last was the fact; for they had heard a gun

fired by one of captain Clarke's men, and believing that their enemies

were approaching had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the

plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued our course along

several islands, and having made in the course of the day fifteen miles,

encamped just above an island, at a spring on a high bank on the left

side of the river. In the latter part of the evening we had passed

through a low range of mountains, and the country became more open,

though still unbroken and without timber, and the lowlands not very

extensive: and just above our camp the river is again closed in by the

mountains. We found on the banks an elk which captain Clarke had left

us, with a note mentioning that he should pass the mountains just above

us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We saw but could not

procure some redheaded ducks and sandhill cranes along the sides of the

river, and a woodpecker about the size of the lark-woodpecker, which

seems to be a distinct species: it is as black as a crow with a long

tail, and flies like a jaybird. The whole country is so infested by the

prickly pear that we could scarcely find room to lie down at our camp.

Captain Clarke on setting out this morning had gone through the valley

about six miles to the right of the river. He soon fell into an old

Indian road which he pursued till he reached the Missouri, at the

distance of eighteen miles from his last encampment, just above the

entrance of a large creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek.

Here he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp flint and

the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small distance further, and

then halted to wait for us. Along his track he had taken the precaution

to strew signals, such as pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to

the Indians, if by accident they met his track, that we were white men.

But he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded that the

whole country had now taken the alarm.

Sunday 21. On leaving our camp we passed an island at half a mile, and

reached at one mile a bad rapid at the place where the river leaves the

mountain: here the cliffs are high and covered with fragments of broken

rocks, the current is also strong, but although more rapid the river is

wider and shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally,

though we principally depend on the towline. On leaving this rapid which

is about half a mile in extent, the country opens on each side; the

hills become lower; at one mile is a large island on the left side, and

four and a half beyond it a large and bold creek twenty-eight yards

wide, coming in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we

called it Pryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John Pryor. At a

mile above this creek on the left side of the Missouri we obtained a

meridian altitude, which gave 46° 10' 32" 9"' as the latitude of the

place. For the following four miles, the country, like that through

which we passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous as

we found it yesterday; but at the distance of twelve miles, we came

towards evening into a beautiful plain ten or twelve miles wide and

extending as far the eye could reach. This plain or rather valley is

bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whose summits

are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is scattered along

the sides down to the plain in some places, though the greater part of

their surface has no timber and exhibits only a barren soil with no

covering except dry parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the

valley the river assumes a totally different aspect; it spreads to more

than a mile in width, and though more rapid than before, is shallow

enough in almost every part for the use of the pole, while its bed is

formed of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has been indeed

since we entered the mountains: it is also divided by a number of

islands some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil of the

valley is a rich black loam apparently very fertile, and covered with a

fine green grass about eighteen inches or two feet in height; while that

of the high grounds is perfectly dry and seems scorched by the sun. The

timber though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than

we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to prefer the

borders of the small creeks to the banks of the river itself. We

advanced three and a half miles in this valley and encamped on the left

side, having made in all fifteen and a half miles.

Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however two pheasants of

a dark brown colour, much larger than the same species of bird in the

United States. In the morning too, we saw three swans which, like the

geese, have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were unable

to fly: we killed two of them, and the third escaped by diving and

passing down the current. These are the first we have seen on the river

for a great distance, and as they had no young with them, we presume

that they do not breed in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see

great numbers, with their young perfectly feathered except on the wings,

where both young and old are deficient; the first are very fine food,

but the old ones are poor and unfit for use. Several of the large brown

or sandhill crane are feeding in the low grounds on the grass which

forms their principal food. The young crane cannot fly at this season:

they are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since the

river has become shallow we have caught a number of trout to-day, and a

fish, white on the belly and sides, but of a bluish cast on the back,

and a long pointed mouth opening somewhat like that of the shad.

This morning captain Clarke wishing to hunt but fearful of alarming the

Indians, went up the river for three miles, when finding neither any of

them nor of their recent tracks returned, and then his little party

separated to look for game. They killed two bucks and a doe, and a young

curlew nearly feathered: in the evening they found the musquitoes as

troublesome as we did: these animals attack us as soon as the labours

and fatigues of the day require some rest, and annoy us till several

hours after dark, when the coldness of the air obliges them to

disappear; but such is their persecution that were it not for our biers

we should obtain no repose.

Monday, 22. We set out at an early hour. The river being divided into so

many channels by both large and small islands, that it was impossible to

lay it down accurately by following in a canoe any single channel,

captain Lewis walked on shore, took the general courses of the river,

and from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the islands and

channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect accuracy, the view not

being obstructed by much timber. At one mile and a quarter we passed an

island somewhat larger than the rest, and four miles further reached the

upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This is a large island

forming in the middle of a bend to the north a level fertile plain ten

feet above the surface of the water and never overflowed. Here we found

great quantities of a small onion about the size of a musket ball,

though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well flavoured as

any of our garden onions; the seed is just ripening, and as the plant

bears a large quantity to the square foot, and stands the rigours of the

climate, it will no doubt be an acquisition to settlers. From this

production we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three

quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a number of

large and small islands which divide the river into many channels, and

then reached the mouth of a creek on the north side. It is composed of

three creeks which unite in a handsome valley about four miles before

they discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about fifteen

feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent water. Here we

halted for dinner, but as the canoes took different channels in

ascending it was some time before they all joined. Here we were

delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she

tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure a

white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth creek. She

says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no great distance,

a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we

hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day

except one we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury

stood at 80° above 0, which is the second time it has reached that

height during this season. We encamped on an island after making

nineteen and three quarter miles.

In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common

to the plains, and a few pheasants: we also observed a small plover or

curlew of a brown colour, about the size of the yellow-legged plover or

jack curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the

mouth of Smith's river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable

to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leafed willow continue, though

the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small

honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed thorn, southern wood, sage and box-alder,

narrow-leafed cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all

abundant. So too are the red and black gooseberries, serviceberries,

chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and purple currant, which last

seems to be a favourite food of the bear. Before encamping we landed and

took on board captain Clarke with the meat he had collected during this

day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had ourselves

shot a deer and an antelope. The musquitoes and gnats were unusually

fierce this evening.

Tuesday, 23. Captain Clarke again proceeded with four men along the

right bank. During the whole day the river divided by a number of

islands, which spread it out sometimes to the distance of three miles:

the current is very rapid and has many ripples; and the bed formed of

gravel and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are of a rich

loam, followed occasionally by low bluffs of yellow and red clay, with a

hard red slatestone intermixed. The low grounds are wide, and have very

little timber but a thick underbrush of willow, and rose and currant

bushes: these are succeeded by high plains extending on each side to the

base of the mountains, which lie parallel to the river about eight or

twelve miles apart, and are high and rocky, with some small pine and

cedar interspersed on them. At the distance of seven miles a creek

twenty yards wide, after meandering through a beautiful low ground on

the left for several miles parallel to the river, empties itself near a

cluster of small islands: the stream we called Whitehouse creek after

Joseph Whitehouse one of the party, and the islands from their number

received the name of the "Ten islands." About ten o'clock we came up

with Drewyer, who had gone out to hunt yesterday, and not being able to

find our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us with

five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse creek we came

to the lower point of an island where the river is three hundred yards

wide, and continued along it for one mile and a quarter, and then passed

a second island just above it. We halted rather early for dinner in

order to dry some part of the baggage which had been wet in the canoes:

we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had passed two small

islands. Within the next three miles we came to a large island, which

from its figure we called Broad island. From that place we made three

and a half miles, and encamped on an island to the left, opposite to

a much larger one on the right. Our journey to-day was twenty-two and

a quarter miles, the greater part of which was made by means of our

poles and cords, the use of which the banks much favoured. During the

whole time we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the

Indians, if there were any in the neighbourhood, of our being white men

and their friends; but we were not so fortunate as to discover any of

them. Along the shores we saw great quantities of the common thistle,

and procured a further supply of wild onions and a species of garlic

growing on the highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a

flat leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also much

of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some ripe seed, as well as

some bullrush and cattail flag. Among the animals we met with a black

snake about two feet long, with the belly as dark as any other part

of the body, which was perfectly black, and which had one hundred and

twenty-eight scuta on the belly and sixty-three on the tail: we also saw

antelopes, crane, geese, ducks, beaver, and otter; and took up four deer

which had been left on the water side by captain Clarke. He had pursued

all day an Indian road on the right side of the river, and encamped late

in the evening at the distance of twenty-five miles from our camp of

last night. In the course of his walk he met besides deer a number of

antelopes and a herd of elk, but all the tracks of Indians, though

numerous, were of an old date.

Wednesday, 24. We proceeded for four and a quarter miles along several

islands to a small run, just above which the low bluffs touch the river.

Within three and a half miles further we came to a small island on the

north, and a remarkable bluff composed of earth of a crimson colour,

intermixed with stratas of slate, either black or of a red resembling

brick. The following six and three quarter miles brought us to an

assemblage of islands, having passed four at different distances; and

within the next five miles we met the same number of islands, and

encamped on the north after making nineteen and a half miles. The

current of the river was strong and obstructed, as indeed it has been

for some days by small rapids or ripples which descend from one to three

feet in the course of one hundred and fifty yards, but they are rarely

incommoded by any fixed rocks, and therefore, though the water is rapid,

the passage is not attended with danger. The valley through which the

river passes is like that of yesterday; the nearest hills generally

concealing the most distant from us; but when we obtain a view of them

they present themselves in amphitheatre, rising above each other as they

recede from the river till the most remote are covered with snow. We saw

many otter and beaver to-day: the latter seem to contribute very much to

the number of islands and the widening of the river. They begin by

damming up the small channels of about twenty yards between the islands;

this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and as soon as this is

effected the channel stopped by the beaver becomes filled with mud and

sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another channel which

soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts

the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed a deer and saw

great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few redheaded

ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant:

we saw but could not come within gunshot of a large bear. There is much

of the track of elk but none of the animals themselves, and from the

appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that buffaloe have

sometimes strayed into the valley, though we have as yet seen no recent

sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a brown

uniform colour, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, and

striped with black and a brownish yellow in the back and sides. The

first, which are the largest, are about four feet long; the second is of

the kind mentioned yesterday, and the third resembles in size and

appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth

of all these several kinds we found them free from poison: they are fond

of the water, in which they take shelter on being pursued. The

mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three persecutors, still

continue with us, and joined with the labour of working the canoes have

fatigued us all excessively. Captain Clarke continued along the Indian

road which led him up a creek. About ten o'clock he saw at the distance

of six miles a horse feeding in the plains. He went towards him, but the

animal was so wild that he could not get within several hundred paces of

him: he then turned obliquely to the river where he killed a deer and

dined, having passed in this valley five handsome streams, only one of

which had any timber; another had some willows, and was very much dammed

up by the beaver. After dinner he continued his route along the river

and encamped at the distance of thirty miles. As he went along he saw

many tracks of Indians, but none of recent date. The next morning,

Thursday, 25, at the distance of a few miles he arrived at the three

forks of the Missouri. Here he found that the plains had been recently

burnt on the north side, and saw the track of a horse which seemed to

have passed about four or five days since. After breakfast he examined

the rivers, and finding that the north branch, although not larger,

contained more water than the middle branch, and bore more to the

westward, he determined to ascend it. He therefore left a note informing

captain Lewis of his intention, and then went up that stream on the

north side for about twenty-five miles. Here Chaboneau was unable to

proceed any further, and the party therefore encamped, all of them much

fatigued, their feet blistered and wounded by the prickly pear.

In the meantime we left our camp, and proceeded on very well, though the

water is still rapid and has some occasional ripples. The country is

much like that of yesterday: there are however fewer islands, for we

passed only two. Behind one of them is a large creek twenty-five yards

wide, to which we gave the name of Gass's creek, from one of our

serjeants, Patrick Gass: it is formed by the union of five streams,

which descend from the mountains and join in the plain near the river.

On this island we saw a large brown bear, but he retreated to the shore

and ran off before we could approach him. These animals seem more shy

than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have again collected

in small herds, composed of several females with their young, attended

by one or two males, though some of the males are still solitary or

wander in parties of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably

prefers to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by accident

it is found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt in its wonderful

fleetness. We also killed a few young geese, but as this game is small

and very incompetent to the subsistence of the party, we have forbidden

the men any longer to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a

half miles above Gass's creek, the valley in which we have been

travelling ceases, the high craggy cliffs again approach the river,

which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be a second great

chain of the Rocky mountains. About a mile after entering these hills or

low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs, which burst out

near the edge of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a

fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the worst rapids we

have seen since entering the mountains; a ridge of sharp pointed rocks

stretching across the river, leaving but small and dangerous channels

for the navigation. The cliffs are of a lighter colour than those we

have already passed, and in the bed of the river is some limestone which

is small and worn smooth, and seems to have been brought down by the

current. We went about a mile further and encamped under a high bluff on

the right opposite to a cliff of rocks, having made sixteen miles.

All these cliffs appeared to have been undermined by the water at some

period, and fallen down from the hills on their sides, the stratas of

rock sometimes lying with their edges upwards, others not detached from

the hills are depressed obliquely on the side next the river as if they

had sunk to fill up the cavity formed by the washing of the river.

In the open places among the rocky cliffs are two kinds of gooseberry,

one yellow and the other red. The former species was observed for the

first time near the falls, the latter differs from it in no respect

except in colour and in being of a larger size; both have a sweet

flavour, and are rather indifferent fruit.

Friday 26. We again found the current strong and the ripples frequent:

these we were obliged to overcome by means of the cord and the pole, the

oar being scarcely ever used except in crossing to take advantage of the

shore. Within three and three quarter miles we passed seven small

islands and reached the mouth of a large creek which empties itself in

the centre of a bend on the left side: it is a bold running stream

fifteen yards wide, and received the name of Howard creek after John P.

Howard one of the party. One mile beyond it is a small run which falls

in on the same side just above a rocky cliff. Here the mountains recede

from the river, and the valley widens to the extent of several miles.

The river now becomes crowded with islands of which we passed ten in the

next thirteen and three quarter miles, then at the distance of eighteen

miles we encamped on the left shore near a rock in the centre of a bend

towards the left, and opposite to two more islands. This valley has wide

low grounds covered with high grass, and in many with a fine turf of

green sward. The soil of the highlands is thin and meagre, without any

covering except a low sedge and a dry kind of grass which is almost as

inconvenient as the prickly pear. The seeds of it are armed with a long

twisted hard beard at their upper extremity, while the lower part is a

sharp firm point, beset at its base with little stiff bristles, with the

points in a direction contrary to the subulate point to which they

answer as a barb. We see also another species of prickly pear. It is of

a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves

springing from a common root to which their small points are attached

as a common centre, and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf

which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns like the

cochineal plant, and quite as stiff and even more keen than those of the

common flat-leafed species. Between the hills the river had been

confined within one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards, but in the

valley it widens to two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards, and

sometimes is spread by its numerous islands to the distance of three

quarters of a mile. The banks are low, but the river never overflows

them. On entering the valley we again saw the snow-clad mountains before

us, but the appearance of the hills as well as of the timber near us is

much as heretofore.

Finding Chaboneau unable to proceed captain Clarke left him with one of

the men, and accompanied by the other went up the river about twelve

miles to the top of a mountain. Here he had an extensive view of the

river valley upwards and saw a large creek which flowed in on the right

side. He however discovered no fresh sign of the Indians, and therefore

determined to examine the middle branch and join us by the time we

reached the forks: he descended the mountain by an Indian path which

wound through a deep valley, and at length reached a fine cold spring.

The day had been very warm, the path unshaded by timber, and his thirst

was excessive; he was therefore tempted to drink: but although he took

the precaution of previously wetting his head, feet and hands, he soon

found himself very unwell; he continued his route, and after resting

with Chaboneau at his camp, resumed his march across the north fork near

a large island. The first part was knee deep, but on the other side of

the island the water came to their waists and was so rapid that

Chaboneau was on the point of being swept away, and not being able to

swim would have perished if captain Clarke had not rescued him. While

crossing the island they killed two brown bear and saw great quantities

of beaver. He then went on to a small river which falls into the north

fork some miles above its junction with the two others: here, finding

himself grow more unwell, he halted for the night at the distance of

four miles from his last encampment.

Saturday 27. We proceeded on but slowly, the current being still so

rapid as to require the utmost exertions of us all to advance, and the

men are losing their strength fast in consequence of their constant

efforts. At half a mile we passed an island, and a mile and a quarter

further again entered a ridge of hills which now approach the river with

cliffs apparently sinking like those of yesterday. They are composed of

a solid limestone of a light lead colour when exposed to the air, though

when freshly broken it is of a deep blue, and of an excellent quality

and very fine grain. On these cliffs were numbers of the bighorn. At two

and a half miles we reached the centre of a bend towards the south

passing a small island, and at one mile and a quarter beyond this

reached about nine in the morning the mouth of a river seventy yards

wide, which falls in from the southeast. Here the country suddenly opens

into extensive and beautiful meadows and plains, surrounded on every

side with distant and lofty mountains. Captain Lewis went up this stream

for about half a mile, and from the height of a limestone cliff could

observe its course about seven miles, and the three forks of the

Missouri, of which this river is one. Its extreme point bore S. 65° E.

and during the seven miles it passes through a green extensive meadow of

fine grass dividing itself into several streams, the largest passing

near the ridge of hills on which he stood. On the right side of the

Missouri a high, wide and extensive plain succeeds to this low meadow

which reaches the hills. In the meadow a large spring rises about a

quarter of a mile from this Southeast fork, into which it discharges

itself on the right side about four hundred paces from where he stood.

Between the southeast and middle forks a distant range of snow-topped

mountains spread from east to south above the irregular broken hills

nearer to this spot: the middle and southwest forks unite at half a mile

above the entrance of the southeast fork. The extreme point at which the

former can be seen, bears S. 15° E. and at the distance of fourteen

miles, where it turns to the right round the point of a high plain and

disappears from the view. Its low grounds are several miles in width,

forming a smooth and beautiful green meadow, and like the southeast fork

it divides itself into several streams. Between these two forks and near

their junction with that from the southwest, is a position admirably

well calculated for a fort. It is a limestone rock of an oblong form,

rising from the plain perpendicularly to the height of twenty-five feet

on three of its sides; the fourth towards the middle fork being a

gradual ascent and covered with a fine green sward, as is also the top

which is level and contains about two acres. An extensive plain lies

between the middle and southwest forks, the last of which after watering

a country like that of the other two branches, disappears about twelve

miles off, at a point bearing south 30° west. It is also more divided

and serpentine in its course than the other two, and possesses more

timber in its meadows. This timber consists almost exclusively of the

narrow-leafed cottonwood, with an inter-mixture of box alder and

sweet-willow, the underbrush being thick and like that of the Missouri

lower down. A range of high mountains partially covered with snow is

seen at a considerable distance running from south to west, and nearly

all around us are broken ridges of country like that below, through

which those united streams appear to have forced their passage: after

observing the country captain Lewis descended to breakfast. We then left

the mouth of the southeast fork, to which in honour of the secretary of

the treasury we called Gallatin's river, and at the distance of half a

mile reached the confluence of the southwest and middle branch of the

Missouri. Here we found the letter from captain Clarke, and as we

agreed with him that the direction of the southwest fork gave it a

decided preference over the others, we ascended that branch of the river

for a mile, and encamped in a level handsome plain on the left: having

advanced only seven miles. Here we resolved to wait the return of

captain Clarke, and in the meantime make the necessary celestial

observations, as this seems an essential point in the geography of the

western world, and also to recruit the men and air the baggage. It was

accordingly all unloaded and stowed away on shore. Near the three forks

we saw many collections of the mud-nests of the small martin attached to

the smooth faces of the limestone rock, where they were sheltered by

projections of the rock above it: and in the meadows were numbers of the

duck or mallard with their young, who are now nearly grown. The hunters

returned towards evening with six deer, three otter and a muskrat; and

had seen great numbers of antelopes, and much sign of the beaver and

elk.

During all last night captain Clarke had a high fever and chills

accompanied with great pain. He however pursued his route eight miles to

the middle branch, where not finding any fresh Indian track he came down

it and joined us about three o'clock, very much exhausted with fatigue

and the violence of his fever. Believing himself bilious he took a dose

of Rush's pills, which we have always found sovereign in such cases, and

bathing the lower extremities in warm water.

We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for

several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may

soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the

route we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we

reach the head of the river, at least such a one as will lead us to the

Columbia, and even were we so fortunate as to find a branch of that

river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does

not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is

on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation

is, that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river

than the Columbia, and that if any nation of Indians can live in the

mountains we are able to endure as much as they, and have even better

means of procuring subsistence.

CHAPTER XIII.

The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself

into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other

Madison, and the other after Gallatin--their general character--the

party ascend the Jefferson branch--description of the river

Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a

small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees--description

of the country, &c. bordering on the river--captain Lewis still

preceding the main party in quest of the Shoshonees--a singular

accident which prevented captain Clarke from following captain

Lewis's advice, and ascending the middle fork of the

river--description of Philanthropy river, another stream running

into the Jefferson--captain Lewis and a small party having been

unsuccessful in their first attempt, set off a second time in quest

of the Shoshonees.

Sunday, July 28. Captain Clarke continued very unwell during the night,

but was somewhat relieved this morning. On examining the two streams it

became difficult to decide which was the larger or the real Missouri;

they are each ninety yards wide and so perfectly similar in character

and appearance that they seem to have been formed in the same mould. We

were therefore induced to discontinue the name of Missouri, and gave to

the southwest branch the name of Jefferson in honour of the president of

the United States, and the projector of the enterprise: and called the

middle branch Madison, after James Madison secretary of state. These

two, as well as Gallatin river, run with great velocity and throw out

large bodies of water. Gallatin river is however the most rapid of the

three, and though not quite as deep, yet navigable for a considerable

distance. Madison river though much less rapid than the Gallatin, is

somewhat more rapid than the Jefferson; the beds of all of them are

formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and the waters are perfectly

transparent. The timber in the neighbourhood would be sufficient for

the ordinary uses of an establishment, which, however, it would be

adviseable to build of brick, as the earth appears calculated for that

purpose, and along the shores are some bars of fine pure sand. The

greater part of the men, having yesterday put their deer skins in water,

were this day engaged in dressing them, for the purpose of making

clothing. The weather was very warm, the thermometer in the afternoon

was at 90° above 0, and the musquitoes more than usually inconvenient:

we were, however, relieved from them by a high wind from the southwest,

which came on at four o'clock, bringing a storm of thunder and

lightning, attended by refreshing showers, which continued till after

dark. In the evening the hunters returned with eight deer and two elk;

and the party who had been sent up the Gallatin, reported that after

passing the point, where it escaped from captain* Lewis's view

yesterday, it turned more towards the east, as far as they could discern

the opening of the mountains, formed by the valley which bordered it.

The low grounds were still wide but not so extensive as near its mouth,

and though the stream is rapid and much divided by islands, it is still

sufficiently deep for navigation with canoes. The low grounds, although

not more than eight or nine feet above the water, seem never to be

overflowed, except a part on the west side of the middle fork, which is

stony and seems occasionally inundated, are furnished with great

quantities of small fruit, such as currants and gooseberries: among the

last of which is a black species, which we observe not only in the

meadows but along the mountain rivulets. From the same root rise a

number of stems to the height of five or six feet, some of them

particularly branched and all reclining. The berry is attached by a long

peduncle to the stem, from which they hang of a smooth ovate form, as

large as the common garden gooseberry, and as black as jet, though the

pulp is of a bright crimson colour. It is extremely acid: the form of

the leaf resembles that of the common gooseberry, though larger. The

stem is covered with very sharp thorns or briars: the grass too is very

luxuriant and would yield fine hay in parcels of several acres. The

sand-rushes will grow in many places as high as a man's breast, and as

thick as stalks of wheat; it would supply the best food during the

winter to cattle of any trading or military post.

Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the

precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts

five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife river first came in sight

of them, and from which they hastily retreated three miles up the

Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees,

however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and

a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys, and all the

females, of whom Sacajawea was one: she does not, however, show any

distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being

restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly or the

philosophy of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of

having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear.

Monday 29. This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the

long-tailed red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United

States, and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place:

there are numbers of the sandhill cranes feeding in the meadows; we

caught a young one of the same colour as the red deer, which, though it

had nearly attained its full growth could not fly; it is very fierce and

strikes a severe blow with its beak. The kingfisher has become quite

common on this side of the falls: but we have seen none of the summer

duck since leaving that place. The mallard duck, which we saw for the

first time on the 20th instant, with their young, are now abundant,

though they do not breed on the Missouri, below the mountains. The small

birds already described are also abundant in the plains; here too, are

great quantities of grasshoppers or crickets; and among other animals, a

large ant with a reddish brown body and legs, and a black head and

abdomen, who build little cones of gravel, ten or twelve inches high,

without a mixture of sticks, and but little earth. In the river we see a

great abundance of fish, but we cannot tempt them to bite by any thing

on our hooks. The whole party have been engaged in dressing skins, and

making them into moccasins and leggings. Captain Clarke's fever has

almost left him, but he still remains very languid and has a general

soreness in his limbs. The latitude of our camp, as the mean of two

observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb with

octant by back observation is N. 45° 24' 8" 5"'.

Tuesday 30. Captain Clarke was this morning much restored; and,

therefore, having made all the observations necessary to fix the

longitude, we reloaded our canoes, and began to ascend Jefferson river.

The river now becomes very crooked, and forms bends on each side; the

current too is rapid, and cut into a great number of channels, and

sometimes shoals, the beds of which consist of coarse gravel. The

islands are unusually numerous: on the right are high plains

occasionally forming cliffs of rocks and hills; while the left was an

extensive low ground and prairie intersected by a number of bayous or

channels falling into the river. Captain Lewis, who had walked through

it with Chaboneau, his wife, and two invalids, joined us at dinner, a

few miles above our camp. Here the Indian woman said was the place where

she had been made prisoner. The men being too few to contend with the

Minnetarees, mounted their horses, and fled as soon as the attack began.

The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea as she was crossing at a

shoal place, was overtaken in the middle of the river by her pursuers.

As we proceeded, the low grounds were covered with cottonwood and a

thick underbrush, and on both sides of the river, except where the high

hills prevented it, the ground was divided by bayous, which are dammed

up by the beaver, which are very numerous here. We made twelve and a

quarter miles, and encamped on the north side. Captain Lewis proceeded

after dinner, through an extensive low ground of timber and meadow land

intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by beaver dams, that in

order to avoid them he directed his course towards the high plain on the

right. This he gained with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist

through the mud and water of a number of beaver dams. When he desired to

rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick, and the river so

crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of passing the beaver dams,

induced him to go on and endeavour to intercept the river at some point

where it might be more collected into one channel and approach nearer to

the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, having gone only

six miles in a direct course from the canoes: but he saw no traces of

the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts nor the firing of

his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him and he shot it.

He then went on the head of a small island where he found some

driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and he laid

down to sleep on some willow brush. The night was cool, but the

driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience except

from the mosquitoes.

Wednesday 31. The next morning he waited till after seven o'clock, when

he became uneasy lest we should have gone beyond his camp last evening

and determined to follow us. Just as he had set out with this intention,

he saw one of the party in advance of the canoes; although our camp was

only two miles below him, in a straight line, we could not reach him

sooner, in consequence of the rapidity of the water and the circuitous

course of the river. We halted for breakfast, after which captain Lewis

continued his route. At the distance of one mile from our encampment we

passed the principal entrance of a stream on the left, which rises in

the snowy mountains to the southwest, between Jefferson and Madison

rivers, and discharges itself by seven mouths, five below, and one three

miles above this, which is the largest, and about thirty yards wide: we

called it Philosophy river. The water of it is abundant and perfectly

clear, and the bed like that of the Jefferson consists of pebble and

gravel. There is some timber in the bottoms of the river, and vast

numbers of otter and beaver, which build on its smaller mouths and the

bayous of its neighbourhood. The Jefferson continues as yesterday,

shoaly and rapid, but as the islands though numerous are small, it is

however more collected into one current than it was below, and is from

ninety to one hundred and twenty yards in width. The low ground has a

fertile soil of rich black loam, and contains a considerable quantity of

timber, with the bullrush and cattail flag very abundant in the moist

parts, while the drier situations are covered with fine grass, tansy,

thistles, onions, and flax. The uplands are barren, and without timber:

the soil is a light yellow clay intermixed with small smooth pebble and

gravel, and the only produce is the prickly-pear, the sedge, and the

bearded grass, which is as dry and inflammable as tinder. As we

proceeded the low grounds became narrower, and the timber more scarce,

till at the distance of ten miles the high hills approach and overhang

the river on both sides, forming cliffs of a hard black granite, like

almost all those below the limestone cliffs at the three forks of the

Missouri: they continue so for a mile and three quarters, where we came

to a point of rock on the right side, at which place the hills again

retire, and the valley widens to the distance of a mile and a half.

Within the next five miles we passed four islands, and reached the foot

of a mountain in a bend of the river to the left: from this place we

went a mile and a quarter to the entrance of a small run discharging

itself on the left, and encamped on an island just above it, after

making seventeen and three quarter miles. We observe some pine on the

hills on both sides of our encampment, which are very lofty. The only

game which we have seen are one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and one

brown bear, which escaped from our pursuit. Nothing was, however, killed

to-day, nor have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last

two days, so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we

have hitherto always had a great abundance of flesh.

Thursday, August 1. We left our encampment early, and at the distance of

a mile, reached a point of rocks on the left side, where the river

passes though perpendicular cliffs. Two and three quarter miles further

we halted for breakfast under a cedar tree in a bend to the right: here

as had been previously arranged, captain Lewis left us, with sergeant

Gass, Chaboneau, and Drewyer, intending to go on in advance in search of

the Shoshonees. He began his route along the north side of the river

over a high range of mountains, as captain Clarke who ascended them on

the 26th had observed from them a large valley spreading to the north of

west, and concluded that on leaving the mountain the river took that

direction; but when he reached that valley, captain Lewis found it to be

the passage of a large creek falling just above the mountain into the

Jefferson, which bears to the southwest. On discovering his error, he

bent his course towards that river, which he reached about two in the

afternoon, very much exhausted with heat and thirst. The mountains were

very bare of timber, and the route lay along the steep and narrow

hollows of the mountain, exposed to the mid-day sun, without air, or

shade, or water. Just as he arrived there a flock of elk passed, and

they killed two of them, on which they made their dinner, and left the

rest on the shore for the party in the canoes. After dinner they resumed

their march, and encamped on the north side of the river, after making

seventeen miles; in crossing the mountains captain Lewis saw a flock of

the black or dark brown pheasant, of which he killed one. This bird is

one third larger than the common pheasant of the Atlantic States; its

form is much the same. The male has not however the tufts of long black

feathers on the side of the neck so conspicuous in the Atlantic

pheasant, and both sexes are booted nearly to the toes. The colour is a

uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yellowish brown

specks on some of the feathers, particularly those of the tail, though

the extremities of these are perfectly black for about an inch. The eye

is nearly black, and the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown; the

feathers of the tail are somewhat longer than those of our pheasant, but

the same in number, eighteen, and nearly equal in size, except that

those of the middle are somewhat the longest; their flesh is white and

agreeably flavoured.

He also saw among the scattered pine near the top of the mountain, a

blue bird about the size of a robin, but in action and form something

like a jay; it is constantly in motion, hopping from spray to spray, and

its note which is loud and frequent, is, as far as letters can represent

it, char ah! char ah! char ah!

After breakfast we proceeded on: at the distance of two and a quarter

miles the river enters a high mountain, which forms rugged cliffs of

nearly perpendicular rocks. These are of a black granite at the lower

part, and the upper consists of a light coloured freestone; they

continue from the point of rocks close to the river for nine miles,

which we passed before breakfast, during which the current is very

strong. At nine and a quarter miles we passed an island, and a rapid

fall with a fall of six feet, and reached the entrance of a large creek

on the left side. In passing this place the towline of one of the canoes

broke just at the shoot of the rapids, swung on the rocks and had nearly

upset. To the creek as well as the rapid we gave the name of Frazier,

after Robert* Frazier one of the party: here the country opens into a

beautiful valley from six to eight miles in width: the river then

becomes crooked and crowded with islands; its lowgrounds wide and

fertile, but though covered with fine grass from nine inches to two

feet high; possesses but a small proportion of timber, and that consists

almost entirely of a few narrow-leafed cottonwood distributed along the

verge of the river. The soil of the plain is tolerably fertile, and

consists of a black or dark yellow loam. It gradually ascends on each

side to the bases of two ranges of high mountains which lie parallel* to

the river; the tops of them are yet in part covered with snow, and while

in the valley we are nearly suffocated with heat during the day, and at

night the air is so cold that two blankets are not more than sufficient

covering. In passing through the hills we observed some large cedar

trees, and some juniper also. From Frazier's creek we went three and

three quarter miles, and encamped on the left side, having come thirteen

miles. Directly opposite our camp is a large creek which we call Field's

creek, from Reuben Fields, one of our men. Soon after we halted two of

the hunters went out and returned with five deer, which, with one

bighorn, we killed in coming through the mountain on which we dined; and

the elk left by captain Lewis. We were again well supplied with fresh

meat. In the course of the day we saw a brown bear but were not able to

shoot him.

Friday, August 2. Captain Lewis, who slept in the valley a few miles

above us, resumed his journey early, and after making five miles and

finding that the river still bore to the south, determined to cross it

in hopes of shortening the route: for the first time therefore he waded

across it, although there are probably many places above the falls where

it might be attempted with equal safety. The river was about ninety

yards wide, the current rapid, and about waist deep: the bottom formed

of smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. He then

continued along the left bank of the river till sunset and encamped,

after travelling twenty-four miles. He met no fresh tracks of Indians.

Throughout the valley are scattered the bones and excrement of the

buffaloe* of an old date, but there seems no hope of meeting the animals

themselves in the mountains: he saw an abundance of deer and antelope,

and many tracks of elk and bear. Having killed two deer they feasted

sumptuously, with a desert of currants of different colours; two species

of red, others yellow, deep purple, and black: to these were added black

gooseberries and deep purple serviceberries, somewhat larger than ours,

from which it differs also in colour, size, and the superior excellence

of its flavour. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams

formed of willow brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they

resist the water perfectly: some of them were five feet high and

overflowed several acres of land.

In the meantime we proceeded on slowly, the current being so strong as

to require the utmost exertions of the men to make any advance even with

the aid of the cord and pole, the wind being from the northwest. The

river is full of large and small islands, and the plain cut by great

numbers of bayous or channels, in which are multitudes of beaver. In the

course of the day we passed some villages of barking squirrels: we saw

several rattlesnakes in the plain; young ducks, both of the

duckon-mallard and red-headed fishing duck species; some geese; also the

black woodpecker, and a large herd of elk. The channel, current, banks,

and general appearance of the river, are like that of yesterday. At

fourteen and three quarter miles we reached a rapid creek or bayou about

thirty yards wide, to which we gave the name of Birth creek. After

making seventeen miles we halted in a smooth plain in a bend towards the

left.

Saturday, 3. Captain Lewis continued his course along the river through

the valley, which continued much as it was yesterday, except that it now

widens to nearly twelve miles; the plains too are more broken and have

some scattered pine near the mountains, where they rise higher than

hitherto. In the level parts of the plains and the river bottoms there

is no timber except small cottonwood near the margin, and an undergrowth

of narrow-leafed willow, small honeysuckle, rosebushes, currants,

serviceberry, and gooseberry, and a little of a small species of birch;

it is a finely indented oval of a small size and a deep green colour;

the stem is simple, ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher

than ten or twelve feet. The mountains continue high on each side of the

valley, but their only covering is a small species of pitch-pine with a

short leaf, growing on the lower and middle regions, while for some

distance below the snowy tops there is neither timber nor herbage of any

kind. About eleven o'clock Drewyer killed a doe on which they

breakfasted, and after resting two hours continued till night, when they

reached the river near a low ground more extensive than usual. From the

appearance of the timber captain Lewis supposed that the river forked

above him, and therefore encamped with an intention of examining it more

particularly in the morning. He had now made twenty-three miles, the

latter part of which were for eight miles through a high plain covered

with prickly pears and bearded grass, which rendered the walking very

inconvenient: but even this was better than the river bottoms we crossed

in the evening, which, though apparently level, were formed into deep

holes as if they had been rooted up by hogs, and the holes were so

covered with thick grass that they were in danger of falling at every

step. Some parts of these low grounds, however, contain turf or peat of

an excellent quality for many feet deep apparently, as well as the

mineral salts which we have already mentioned on the Missouri. They saw

many deer, antelopes, ducks, geese, some beaver, and great traces of

their work, and the small birds and curlews as usual. The only fish

which they observed in this part of the river is the trout and a species

of white fish, with a remarkably long small mouth, which one of our men

recognize as the fish called in the eastern states the bottlenose.

On setting out with the canoes we found the river as usual much crowded

with islands, the current more rapid as well as shallower, so that in

many places they were obliged to man the canoes double, and drag them

over the stone and gravel of the channel. Soon after we set off captain

Clarke who was walking on shore observed a fresh track which he knew to

be that of an Indian from the large toes being turned inwards, and on

following it found that it led to the point of a hill from which our

camp of last night could be seen. This circumstance strengthened the

belief that some Indian had strayed thither, and had run off alarmed at

the sight of us. At two and a quarter miles, is a small creek in a bend

towards the right, which runs down from the mountains at a little

distance; we called it Panther creek from an animal of that kind killed

by Reuben Fields at its mouth. It is precisely the same animal common to

the western parts of the United States, and measured seven and a half

feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. Six and three quarter

miles beyond this stream is another on the left formed by the drains

which convey the melted snows from a mountain near it, under which the

river passes, leaving the low grounds on the right side, and making

several bends in its course. On this stream are many large beaver dams.

One mile above it is a small run on the left, and after leaving which

begins a very bad rapid, where the bed of the river is formed of solid

rock: this we passed in the course of a mile, and encamped on the lower

point of an island. Our journey had been only thirteen miles, but the

badness of the river made it very laborious, as the men were compelled

to be in the water during the greater part of the day. We saw only deer,

antelopes, and the common birds of the country.

Saturday 4. This morning captain Lewis proceeded early, and after going

southeast by east for four miles, reaching a bold running creek, twelve

yards wide, with clear cold water, furnished apparently by four drains

from the snowy mountains on the left; after passing this creek he

changed his direction to southeast, and leaving the valley in which he

had travelled for the last two days, entered another which bore east. At

the distance of three miles on this course he passed a handsome little

river, about thirty yards wide, which winds through the valley: the

current is not rapid nor the water very clear, but it affords a

considerable quantity of water, and appears as if it might be navigable

for some miles. The banks are low, and the bed formed of stone and

gravel. He now changed his route to southwest, and passing a high plain

which separates the vallies, returned to the more southern or that which

he had left: in passing this he found a river about forty-five yards

wide, the water of which has a whitish blue tinge, with a gentle

current, and a gravelly bottom. This he waded and found it waist deep.

He then continued down it, till at the distance of three quarters of a

mile he saw the entrance of the small river he had just passed; as he

went on two miles lower down, he found the mouth of the creek he had

seen in the morning. Proceeding further on three miles, he arrived at

the junction of this river, with another which rises from the southwest,

runs through the south valley about twelve miles before it forms its

junction, where it is fifty yards wide: we now found that our camp of

last night was about a mile and a half above the entrance of this large

river, on the right side. This is a bold, rapid, clear stream, but its

bed is so much obstructed by gravelly bars, and subdivided by islands,

that the navigation must be very insecure, if not impracticable. The

other or middle stream, has about two thirds its quantity of water, and

is more gentle, and may be safely navigated. As far as it could be

observed, its course was about southwest, but the opening of the valley

induced him to believe that farther above it turned more towards the

west. Its water is more turbid and warmer than that of the other branch,

whence it may be presumed to have its sources at a greater distance in

the mountains, and to pass through a more open country. Under this

impression he left a note recommending to captain Clarke the middle

fork, and then continued his course along the right side of the other,

or more rapid branch. After travelling twenty-three miles he near a

place where the river leaves the valley and enters the mountain. Here he

encamped for the night. The country he passed is like that of the rest

of this valley, though there is more timber in this part on the rapid

fork than there has been on the river in the same extent since we

entered it; for on some parts of the valley the Indians seem to have

destroyed a great proportion of the little timber there was, by setting

fire to the bottoms. He saw some antelopes, deer, cranes, geese and

ducks of the two species common to this country, though the summer duck

has ceased to appear, nor does it seem to be an inhabitant of this part

of the river.

We proceeded soon after sunrise: the first five miles we passed four

bends on the left, and several bayous on both sides. At eight o'clock we

stopped to breakfast, and found the note captain Lewis had written on

the 2d instant. During the next four miles, we passed three small bends

of the river to the right, two small islands, and two bayous on the same

side. Here we reached a bluff on the left; our next course was six miles

to our encampment. In this course we met six circular bends on the

right, and several small bayous, and halted for the night in a low

ground of cottonwood on the right. Our days journey, though only fifteen

miles in length, was very fatiguing. The river is still rapid and the

water though clear is very much obstructed by shoals or ripples at every

two or three hundred yards: at all these places we are obliged to drag

the canoes over the stones as there is not a sufficient depth of water

to float them, and in the other parts the current obliges us to have

recourse to the cord. But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit

us to walk on shore, we are under the necessity of wading through the

river as we drag the boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and

sometimes occasions severe falls over the slippery stones; and the men

by being constantly wet are becoming more feeble. In the course of the

day the hunters killed two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party

saw antelopes, cranes, beaver and otter.

Monday 5. This morning Chaboneau complained of being unable to march far

to-day, and captain Lewis therefore ordered him and serjeant Gass to

pass the rapid river and proceed through the level low ground, to a

point of high timber on the middle fork, seven miles distant, and wait

his return. He then went along the north side of the rapid river about

four miles, where he waded it, and found it so rapid and shallow that it

would be impossible to navigate it. He continued along the left side for

a mile and a half, when the mountains came close on the river, and rise

to a considerable height with a partial covering of snow. From this

place the course of the river was to the east of north. After ascending

with some difficulty a high point of the mountain, he had a pleasing

view of the valley he had passed, and which continued for about twenty

miles further on each side of the middle fork, which then seemed to

enter the mountains, and was lost to the view. In that direction,

however, the hills which terminate the valley are much lower than those

along either of the other forks, particularly the rapid one, where they

continue rising in ranges above each other us far as the eye could

reach. The general course too of the middle fork, as well as that of the

gap which it forms on entering the mountains, is considerably to the

south of west; circumstances which gave a decided preference to this

branch as our future route. Captain Lewis now descended the mountain,

and crossed over to the middle fork, about five miles distant, and found

it still perfectly navigable. There is a very large and plain Indian

road leading up it, but it has at present no tracks, except those of

horses which seem to have used it last spring. The river here made a

great bend to the southeast, and he therefore directed his course, as

well as he could, to the spot where he had directed Chaboneau and Gass

to repair, and struck the river about three miles above their camp. It

was now dark, and he, therefore, was obliged to make his way through the

thick brush of the pulpy-leafed thorn and the prickly pear, for two

hours before he reached their camp. Here he was fortunate enough to find

the remains of some meat, which was his only food during the march of

twenty-five miles to-day. He had seen no game of any sort except a few

antelopes who were very shy. The soil of the plains is a meagre clay, of

a light yellow colour, intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, and

producing nothing but twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears.

The drier parts of the low grounds are also more indifferent in point of

soil than those further down the river, and although they have but

little grass, are covered with southern wood, pulpy-leafed thorn, and

prickly pears, while the moist parts are fertile, and supplied with fine

grass and sandrushes.

We passed within the first four and a quarter miles three small islands,

and the same number of bad rapids. At the distance of three quarters of

a mile is another rapid of difficult passage: three miles and three

quarters beyond this are the forks of the river, in reaching which we

had two islands and several bayous on different sides to pass. Here we

had come nine miles and a quarter. The river was straighter and more

rapid than yesterday, the labour of the navigation proportionally

increased, and we therefore proceeded very slowly, as the feet of

several of the men were swollen, and all were languid with fatigue. We

arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but unluckily captain Lewis's

note had been left on a green pole which the beaver had cut down and

carried off with the note, an accident which deprived us of all

information as to the character of the two branches of the river.

Observing therefore that the northwest fork was most in our direction,

and contained as much water as the other, we ascended it; we found it

extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered in such a manner, that

for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a passage through the

willowbrush that leaned over the little channels and united at the top.

After going up it for a mile we encamped on an island which had been

overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to make beds of

brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision consisted of two

deer which had been killed in the morning.

Tuesday 6. We proceeded up the northwest fork, which we found still very

rapid, and divided by several islands, while the plains near it were

intersected by bayous. After passing with much difficulty over stones

and rapids, we reached a bluff on the right, at the distance of nine

miles, our general course south 30° west, and halted for breakfast. Here

we were joined by Drewyer, who informed us of the state of the two

rivers and of captain Lewis's note, and we immediately began to descend

the river in order to take the other branch. On going down one of the

canoes upset, and two others filled with water, by which all the baggage

was wet, and several articles irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung

round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown out of her, and whilst

down the canoe passed over him, and had the water been two inches

shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe

bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened to

the forks, where we were joined by captain Lewis, and then passed over

to the left side opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork, and

encamped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was plenty of wood.

Here we opened and exposed to dry all the articles which had suffered

from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a small keg

of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in the

different canoes was quite safe, although it had been under the water

upwards of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work

immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had

planned our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing powder

enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and smeared with cork

and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly.

Captain Lewis had risen very early, and having nothing to eat, sent out

Drewyer to the woodland on the left in search of a deer, and directed

sergeant Gass to keep along the middle branch to meet us if we were

ascending it. He then set off with Chaboneau towards the forks, but five

miles above them, hearing us on the left, struck the river as we were

descending, and came on board at the forks.

In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us

once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who was

lost before for fifteen days, was sent out this morning to hunt, up the

northwest fork; when we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go

in quest of him, but he returned with information that he had gone

several miles up the river without being able to find Shannon. We now

had the trumpet sounded, and fired several guns, but he did not return,

and we fear he is again lost.

Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose of making

some celestial observations, and also in order to refresh the men, and

complete the drying of the baggage. We obtained a meridian altitude

which gave the latitude of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now

completely satisfied that the middle branch was the most navigable, and

the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest fork seems to be

the drain of the melting snows of the mountains, its course cannot be so

long as the other branch, and although it contains now as great a

quantity of water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the old bed,

and spread into channels which leave the low grounds covered with young

grass, resembling that of the adjoining lands, which are not inundated;

whence we readily infer that the supply is more precarious than that of

the other branch, the waters of which though more gentle are more

constant. This northwest fork we called Wisdom river.

As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on board the boats,

but we now found it so much diminished, that we would we able to proceed

with one canoe less. We therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a

thicket of brush where we secured her against being swept away by the

high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except captain Lewis who remained

till the evening in order to complete the observation of equal

altitudes: we passed several bends of the river both to the right and

left, as well as a number of bayous on both sides, and made seven miles

by water, though the distance by land is only three. We then encamped on

a creek which rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and after

passing through an open plain for several miles, discharges itself on

the left, where it is a bold running stream twelve yards wide. We called

it Turf creek, from the number of bogs and the quantity of turf on its

waters. In the course of the afternoon there fell a shower of rain

attended with thunder and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes,

and the weather remained so cloudy all night that we were unable to take

any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, we sent R. Fields in

search of him this morning, but we have as yet no intelligence of either

of them. Our only game to-day was one deer.

Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having left one of the

canoes, there are now more men to spare for the chace; and four were

sent out at an early hour, after which we proceeded. We made five miles

by water along two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed

seven different bends towards the left, the distance by land was only

two miles south of our encampment. At the end of that course we reached

the upper principal entrance of a stream which we called Philanthropy

river. This river empties itself into the Jefferson on the southeast

side, by two channels a short distance from each other: from its size

and its southeastern course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky

mountains near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards wide at

its entrance, has a very gentle current, and is navigable for some

distance. One mile above this river we passed an island, a second at the

distance of six miles further, during which the river makes a

considerable bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned about noon with

information that he had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance into the

mountains, but could find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond

the last island, and after passing some small bayous, encamped under a

few high trees on the left, at the distance of fourteen miles above

Philanthropy river by water, though only six by land. The river has in

fact become so very crooked that although by means of the pole which we

now use constantly we make a considerable distance, yet being obliged to

follow its windings, at the end of the day, we find ourselves very

little advanced on our general course. It forms itself into small

circular bends, which are so numerous that within the last fourteen

miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining towards the right; it

is however much more gentle and deep than below Wisdom river, and its

general width is from thirty-five to forty-five yards. The general

appearance of the surrounding country is that of a valley five or six

miles wide, enclosed between two high mountains. The bottom is rich,

with some small timber on the islands and along the river, which

consists rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and

willow-trees. The high grounds have some scattered pine, which just

relieve the general nakedness of the hills and the plain, where there is

nothing except grass. Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable

quantity of the buffaloe clover, the sunflower, flax, green sward,

thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which rise to the

height of three or four feet. There is also a grass with a soft smooth

leaf which rises about three feet high, and bears its seed very much

like the timothy, but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it

apparently answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved

some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make the experiment.

Our game consisted of deer and antelope, and we saw a number of geese

and ducks just beginning to fly, and some cranes. Among the inferior

animals we have an abundance of the large biting or hare fly, of which

there are two species, one black, the other smaller and brown, except

the head which is green. The green or blowing flies unite with them in

swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats who have

now disappeared. The musquitoes too are in large quantities, but not so

troublesome as they were below. Through the valley are scattered bogs,

and some very good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is of a

white or bluish white colour, and seems to be argilaceous. On all the

three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy, are immense

quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At our camp there was an

abundance of rosebushes and briars, but so little timber that we were

obliged to use willow brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy which

prevented the lunar observations.

On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian woman

recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head from a supposed

resemblance to that object. This she says is not far from the summer

retreat of her countrymen, which is on a river beyond the mountains, and

running to the west. She is therefore certain that we shall meet them

either on this river, or on that immediately west of its source, which

judging from its present size, cannot be far distant. Persuaded of the

absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the mountains, it was

determined that one of us should proceed in the morning to the head of

the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the Shoshonees or

some other nation who could assist us in transporting our baggage, the

greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without the aid of

horses.

Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off early, and proceeded

on very well, though there were more rapids in the river than

yesterday. At eight o'clock we halted for breakfast, part of which

consisted of two fine geese killed before we stopped. Here we were

joined by Shannon for whose safety we had been so uneasy. The day on

which he left us on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for some time

and not seeing the party arrive, he returned to the place where he had

left us. Not finding us there he supposed we had passed him, and he

therefore marched up the river during all the next day, when he was

convinced that we had not gone on, as the river was no longer navigable.

He now followed the course of the river down to the forks, and then took

the branch which we are pursuing. During the three days of his absence,

he had been much wearied with his march, but had lived plentifully, and

brought the skins of three deer. As far as he had ascended Wisdom river

it kept its course obliquely down towards the Jefferson. Immediately

after breakfast, captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and M'Neal, and

slinging their knapsacks they set out with a resolution to meet some

nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be

separated from the party. He directed his course across the low ground

to the plain on the right, leaving the Beaver's-head about two miles to

the left. After walking eight miles to the river, which they waded, they

went on to a commanding point from which he saw the place at which it

enters the mountain, but as the distance would not permit his reaching

it this evening, he descended towards the river, and after travelling

eight miles further, encamped for the evening some miles below the

mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome little

stream formed by some large springs which rise in the wide bottom on the

left side of the river. In their way they killed two antelopes, and took

with them enough of the meat for their supper and breakfast the next

morning.

In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven miles from

our last encampment passed two small islands, sixteen short round bends

in the river, and halted in a bend towards the right where we dined. The

river increases in rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the

eleven miles, which have cost us so much labour, only bring us four

miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards evening, and

we experienced a slight shower attended with thunder and lightning. The

three hunters who were sent out killed only two antelopes; game of every

kind being scarce.

History of the Expedition under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. 1. To the Sources of the Missouri, Thence Across the Rocky Mountains and Down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed During the Years 1804-5-6. · 第 22 / 24 章

Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise