Tuesday, 28. The weather was dark and cloudy; the air smoky, and there

fell a few drops of rain. At ten o'clock we had again a slight

sprinkling of rain, attended with distant thunder, which is the first we

have heard since leaving the Mandans. We employed the line generally,

with the addition of the pole at the ripples and rocky points, which we

find more numerous and troublesome than those we passed yesterday. The

water is very rapid round these points, and we are sometimes obliged to

steer the canoes through the points of sharp rocks rising a few inches

above the surface of the water, and so near to each other that if our

ropes give way the force of the current drives the sides of the canoe

against them, and must inevitably upset them or dash them to pieces.

These cords are very slender, being almost all made of elkskin, and much

worn and rotted by exposure to the weather: several times they gave way,

but fortunately always in places where there was room for the canoe to

turn without striking the rock; yet with all our precautions it was with

infinite risk and labour that we passed these points. An Indian pole for

building floated down the river, and was worn at one end as if dragged

along the ground in travelling; several other articles were also brought

down by the current, which indicate that the Indians are probably at no

great distance above us, and judging from a football which resembles

those used by the Minnetarees near the Mandans, we conjecture that they

must be a band of the Minnetarees of fort de Prairie. The appearance of

the river and the surrounding country continued as usual, till towards

evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a large creek on the north

thirty-five yards wide, discharging some water, and named after one of

our men Thompson's creek. Here the country assumed a totally different

aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river, which now

spreads to more than three times its former size, and is filled with a

number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood. The low

grounds on the river are again wide, fertile, and enriched with trees;

those on the north are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively

low and opening into three large vallies, which extend themselves for a

considerable distance towards the north: these appearances of vegetation

are delightful after the dreary hills over which we have passed, and we

have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last

ridges of the Black mountains. On leaving Thompson's creek we passed two

small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance encamped among some

timber on the north, opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull

creek. The bighorn is in great quantities, and must bring forth their

young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of the

party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from the river, and

having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire.

Wednesday, 29. Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A

buffaloe swam over from the opposite side and to the spot where lay one

of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore: then taking fright

he ran full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within

eighteen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the sentinel

could make him change his course: still more alarmed he ran down between

four fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of the

men, and would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had

not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out of sight in

a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and

inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had

to rejoice at suffering no more injury than the damage to some guns

which were in the canoe which the buffaloe crossed.

In the morning early we left our camp, and proceeded as usual by the

cord. We passed an island and two sandbars, and at the distance of two

and a half miles we came to a handsome river which discharges itself on

the south, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half:

we called it Judith's river: it rises in the Rock mountains in about

the same place with the Muscleshell and near the Yellowstone river. Its

entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water

occupying about seventy-five yards, and in greater quantity than that of

the Muscleshell river, and though more rapid equally navigable, there

being no stones or rocks in the bed, which is composed entirely of

gravel and mud with some sand: the water too is clearer than any which

we have yet seen; and the low grounds, as far as we could discern, wider

and more woody than those of the Missouri: along its banks we observed

some box-alder intermixed with the cottonwood and the willow; the

undergrowth consisting of rosebushes, honeysuckle, and a little red

willow. There was a great abundance of the argalea or bighorned animals

in the high country through which it passes, and a great number of the

beaver in its waters: just above the entrance of it we saw the fires of

one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have been deserted

about twelve or fifteen days, and on the other side of the Missouri a

large encampment, apparently made by the same nation. On examining some

moccasins which we found there, our Indian woman said that they did not

belong to her own nation the Snake Indians, but she thought that they

indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky mountain, and to the north

of the Missouri; indeed it is probable that these are the Minnetarees of

fort de Prairie. At the distance of six and a half miles the hills again

approach the brink of the river, and the stones and rocks washed down

from them form a very bad rapid, with rocks and ripples more numerous

and difficult than those we passed on the 27th and 28th; here the same

scene was renewed, and we had again to struggle and labour to preserve

our small craft from being lost. Near this spot are a few trees of the

ash, the first we have seen for a great distance, and from which we

named the place Ash Rapids. On these hills there is but little timber,

but the salts, coal, and other mineral appearances continue. On the

north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high,

under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred carcases

of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower part of

the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloe had been

chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, and by

which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to

select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a

buffaloe skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and

horns fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffaloe:

thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distant between a herd of

buffaloe and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for

some miles. His companions in the meantime get in the rear and side of

the herd, and at a given signal show themselves, and advance towards the

buffaloe: they instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside

them, they run towards the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on

at full speed toward the river, when suddenly securing himself in some

crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left

on the brink of the precipice: it is then in vain for the foremost to

retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, who

seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till

the whole are precipitated and the shore is strewn with their dead

bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself

either trodden under root by the rapid movements of the buffaloe, or

missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the

falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish, and the

rest is abandoned to the wolves, and create a most dreadful stench. The

wolves who had been feasting on these carcases were very fat, and so

gentle that one of them was killed with an esponton. Above this place we

came to for dinner at the distance of seventeen miles, opposite to a

bold running river of twenty yards wide, and falling in on the south.

From the objects we had just passed we called this stream Slaughter

river. Its low grounds are narrow, and contain scarcely any timber. Soon

after landing it began to blow and rain, and as there was no prospect of

getting wood for fuel farther on, we fixed our camp on the north, three

quarters of a mile above Slaughter river. After the labours of the day

we gave to each man a dram, and such was the effect of long abstinence

from spirituous liquors, that from the small quantity of half a gill of

rum, several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all very

much exhilirated. Our game to-day consisted of an elk and two beaver.

Thursday, 30. The rain which commenced last evening continued with

little intermission till eleven this morning, when the high wind which

accompanied it having abated, we set out. More rain has now fallen than

we have had since the 1st of September last, and many circumstances

indicate our approach to a climate differing considerably from that of

the country through which we have been passing: the air of the open

country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the case of our

sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened, we

tried several experiments, by which it appeared that a tablespoon full

of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six

hours, when the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point at

the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding the rain, is

much clearer than it was a few days past; but we advance with great

labour and difficulty; the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points

rendering the navigation more embarrassing than even that of yesterday,

in addition to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that

the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the earth and stone

constantly falling down the high bluffs make it dangerous to pass under

them; still however we are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind

is strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the

pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a half miles a

small rivulet in a bend on the north, two miles further an island on the

same side, half a mile beyond which came to a grove of trees at the

entrance of a run in a bend to the south, and encamped for the night on

the northern shore. The eight miles which we made to-day cost us much

trouble. The air was cold and rendered more disagreeable by the rain,

which fell in several slight showers in the course of the day; our cords

too broke several times, but fortunately without injury to the boats. On

ascending the hills near the river, one of the party found that there

was snow mixed with the rain on the heights: a little back of these the

country becomes perfectly level on both sides of the river. There is now

no timber on the hills, and only a few scattering cottonwood, ash,

box-alder, and willows, along the water. In the course of the day we

passed several encampments of Indians, the most recent of which seemed

to have been evacuated about five weeks since, and from the several

apparent dates we supposed that they were made by a band of about one

hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the river. Although no part

of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to this place exhibit signs of

permanent settlements, yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of

hunting parties. We know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend

their excursions on the south side of the river, as high as the

Yellowstone; and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, most probably

as high as Porcupine river. All the lodges between that place and the

Rocky mountains we supposed to belong to the Minnetarees of fort de

Prairie, who live on the south fork of the Saskashawan.

Friday, 31. We proceeded in two periogues, leaving the canoes to bring

on the meat of two buffaloes killed last evening. Soon after we set off

it began to rain, and though it ceased at noon, the weather continued

cloudy during the rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still

remain and fatigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery in

some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable to wear their

moccasins; one fourth of the time they are obliged to be up to their

armpits in the cold water, and sometimes walk for several yards over the

sharp fragments of rocks which have fallen from the hills: all this

added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, yet

the men bear it with great patience and good humour. Once the rope of

one of the periogues, the only one we had made of hemp, broke short, and

the periogue swung and just touched a point of rock which almost overset

her. At nine miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the

water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river: this continued

about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high open plain, till

three miles further a second wall two hundred feet high rose on the same

side. Three miles further a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet

high and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north: these hills and

river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic appearance: they

rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, to the height

of between two and three hundred feet, and are formed of very white

sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the impression of water, in

the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three thin horizontal

stratas of white freestone insensible to the rain, and on the top is a

dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a mile to

a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to the

height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs,

the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures,

among which with a little fancy may be discerned elegant ranges of

freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting

long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with

statuary: on a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant

ruins; columns, some with pedestals and capitals entire, others

mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over each other

till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied by niches,

alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated magnificence: the

allusion is increased by the number of martins, who have built their

globular nests in the niches and hover over these columns; as in our

country they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As we

advance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment which surrounds

us. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls,

which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship: they

rise perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one

hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being

equally broad at the top as below. The stones of which they are formed

are black, thick, and durable, and composed of a large portion of earth,

intermixed and cemented with a small quantity of sand, and a

considerable proportion of talk or quartz. These stones are almost

invariably regular parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but

equally deep, and laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks,

each breaking and covering the interstice of the two on which it rests:

but though the perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one

extends entirely through the whole work: the stones too are proportioned

to the thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest

in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth

of the paralleliped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more

depths: these walls pass the river at several places, rising from the

water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to

penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the

river, the plains over which they tower to the height of from ten to

seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills:

sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other,

sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance

of walls of ancient houses or gardens.

The face of some of these river hills, is composed of very excellent

freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, and among the cliffs we

found a species of pine which we had not yet seen, and differing from

the Virginia pitchpine in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more

pointed cone. The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt

earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. Among the animals

are a great number of the bighorn, a few buffaloe and elk, and some

mule-deer, but none of the common deer nor any antelopes. We saw but

could not procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange,

yellow, white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox of this

country, and about the same size as the red fox of the United States.

The river to-day has been from about one hundred and fifty to two

hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. At the distance of

two miles and a half from the last stone wall, is a stream on the north

side, twenty-eight yards in width, and with some running water. We

encamped just above its mouth having made eighteen miles.

Saturday, June 1. The weather was cloudy with a few drops of rain. As we

proceeded by the aid of our cord we found the river cliffs and bluffs

not so high as yesterday, and the country more level. The timber too is

in greater abundance on the river, though there is no wood on the high

ground; coal however appears in the bluffs. The river is from two

hundred to two hundred and fifty feet wide, the current more gentle, the

water becoming still clearer and fewer rocky points and shoals than we

met yesterday, though those which we did encounter were equally

difficult to pass. Game is by no means in such plenty as below; all that

we obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer though we saw in the

plains a quantity of buffaloe, particularly near a small lake about

eight miles from the river to the south. Notwithstanding the wind was

ahead all day, we dragged the canoes along the distance of twenty-three

miles. At fourteen and a quarter miles, we came to a small island

opposite a bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to the

upper point of a small island on the north; five miles to another island

on the south side and opposite to a bluff. In the next two miles we

passed an island on the south, a second beyond it on the north, and

reached near a high bluff on the north a third on which we encamped. In

the plains near the river are the chokecherry, yellow and red

currant-bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which

are now in bloom. From the tops of the river hills, which are lower than

usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich fertile plains on both

sides, in many places extending from the river cliffs to a great

distance back. In these plains we meet occasionally large banks of pure

sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds, and there

deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than

near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally strewed

with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the

agitation of the waters with which they were no doubt once covered. A

mountain or part of the North mountain approaches the river within eight

or ten miles, bearing north from our encampment of last evening; and

this morning a range of high mountains bearing S.W. from us and

apparently running to the westward, are seen at a great distance covered

with snow. In the evening we had a little more rain.

Sunday 2. The wind blew violently last night, and a slight shower of

rain fell, but this morning was fair. We set out at an early hour, and

although the wind was ahead by means of the cord went on much better

than for the last two days, as the banks were well calculated for

towing. The current of the river is strong but regular, its timber

increases in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive,

and the bluffs on the river are lower than usual. In the course of the

day we had a small shower of rain, which lasted a few minutes only. As

the game is very abundant we think it necessary to begin a collection

of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, which we intend

constructing shortly. The hunters who were out the greater part of the

day brought in six elk, two buffaloe, two mule-deer and a bear. This

last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our hunters who were

together when he attacked them: one of them narrowly escaped being

caught, and the other after running a considerable distance, concealed

himself in some thick bushes, and while the bear was in quick pursuit of

his hiding place, his companion came up and fortunately shot the animal

through the head.

At six and at half miles we reached an island on the northern side; one

mile and a quarter thence is a timbered low ground on the south: and in

the next two and three quarter miles we passed three small islands, and

came to a dark bluff on the south: within the following mile are two

small islands on the same side. At three and a quarter miles we reached

the lower part of a much larger island near a northern point, and as we

coasted along its side, within two miles passed a smaller island, and

half a mile above reached the head of another. All these islands are

small, and most of them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile

beyond the last, and at the distance of eighteen miles from our

encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low cottonwood plain

on the south, where we remained for the purpose of making some celestial

observations during the night, and of examining in the morning a large

river which comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour,

Monday, 3d, we crossed and fixed our camp in the point, formed by the

junction of the river with the Missouri. It now became an interesting

question which of these two streams is what the Minnetarees call

Ahmateahza or the Missouri, which they described as approaching very

near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the fate of the

expedition depends; since if after ascending to the Rocky mountains or

beyond them, we should find that the river we were following did not

come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return; we should not only

lose the travelling season, two months of which had already elapsed, but

probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to abandon

the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience instead of the warm and

zealous support which they had hitherto afforded us. We determined,

therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course; and

for this purpose despatched two canoes with three men up each of the

streams with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the

current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the

same time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and

discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of

the two rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. While

they were gone we ascended together the high grounds in the fork of

these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the

surrounding country: on every side it was spread into one vast plain

covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buffaloe were

roaming, attended by their enemies the wolves: some flocks of elk also

were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young

over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty mountains,

which we supposed to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretching

themselves from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly about

southwest from us. These were partially covered with snow; but at a

great distance behind them was a more lofty ridge completely covered

with snow, which seemed to follow the same direction as the first,

reaching from west to the north of northwest, where their snowy tops

were blended with the horizon. The direction of the rivers could not

however be long distinguished, as they were soon lost in the extent of

the plain. On our return we continued our examination; the width of the

north branch is two hundred yards, that of the south is three hundred

and seventy-two. The north, although narrower and with a gentler

current, is deeper than the south: its waters too are of the same

whitish brown colour, thickness, and turbidness: they run in the same

boiling and rolling manner which has uniformly characterized the

Missouri; and its bed is composed of some gravel, but principally mud.

The south fork is deeper, but its waters are perfectly transparent: its

current is rapid, but the surface smooth and unruffled; and its bed too

is composed of round and flat smooth stones like those of rivers issuing

from a mountainous country. The air and character of the north fork so

much resemble those of the Missouri that almost all the party believe

that to be the true course to be pursued. We however, although we have

given no decided opinion, are inclined to think otherwise, because,

although this branch does give the colour and character to the Missouri,

yet these very circumstances induce an opinion that it rises in and runs

through an open plain country, since if it came from the mountains it

would be clearer, unless, which from the position of the country is

improbable, it passed through a vast extent of low ground after leaving

them: we thought it probable that it did not even penetrate the Rocky

mountains, but drew it sources from the open country towards the lower

and middle parts of the Saskashawan, in a direction north of this place.

What embarrasses us most is, that the Indians who appeared to be well

acquainted with the geography of the country, have not mentioned this

northern river; for "the river which scolds at all others," as it is

termed, must be according to their account one of the rivers which we

have passed; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not

designated the south branch which they must also have passed, in order

to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri. In the

evening our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for

some distance, then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to

return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and therefore afforded

the easiest navigation: the shallowest water of the north was five feet

deep, that of the south six feet. At two and a half miles up the north

fork is a small river coming in on the left or western side, sixty feet

wide, with a bold current three feet in depth. The party by land had

gone up the south fork in a straight line, somewhat north of west for

seven miles, where they discovered that this little river came within

one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning down it found it a

handsome stream, with as much timber as either of the larger rivers,

consisting of the narrow and wide-leafed cottonwood, some birch and

box-alder, amid undergrowth of willows, rosebushes, and currants: they

also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver.

All these accounts were however very far from deciding the important

question of our future route, and we therefore determined each of us to

ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or farther if

necessary, for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffaloe, six

elk, and four deer to-day. Along the plains near the junction, are to be

found the prickly pear in great quantities; the chokecherry is also very

abundant in the river low grounds, as well as the ravines along the

river bluffs; the yellow and red currants are not yet ripe; the

gooseberry is beginning to ripen, and the wildrose which now covers all

the low grounds near the rivers is in full bloom. The fatigues of the

last few days have occasioned some falling off in the appearance of the

men, who not having been able to wear moccasins, had their feet much

bruised and mangled in passing over the stones and rough ground. They

are however perfectly cheerful, and have an undiminished ardour for the

expedition.

Tuesday, June 4. At the same hour this morning captain Lewis and captain

Clarke set out to explore the two rivers: captain Lewis with six men

crossed the north fork near the camp, below a small island from which

he took a course N. 30° W. for four and a half miles to a commanding

eminence. Here we observed that the North mountain, changing its

direction parallel to the Missouri, turned towards the north and

terminated abruptly at the distance of about thirty miles, the point of

termination bearing N. 48° E. The South mountain too diverges to the

south, and terminates abruptly, its extremity bearing S. 8° W. distant

about twenty miles: to the right of, and retreating from this extremity,

is a separate mountain at the distance of thirty-five miles in a

direction S. 38° W. which from its resemblance to the roof of a barn, we

called the Barn mountain. The north fork, which is now on the left,

makes a considerable bend to the northwest, and on its western border a

range of hills about ten miles long, and bearing from this spot N. 60°

W. runs parallel with it: north of this range of hills is an elevated

point of the river bluff on its south side, bearing N. 72° W. about

twelve miles from us; towards this he directed his course across a high,

level, dry open plain; which in fact embraces the whole country to the

foot of the mountains. The soil is dark, rich, and fertile, yet the

grass by no means so luxuriant as might have been expected, for it is

short and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the ground. There are

vast quantities of prickly pears, and myriads of grasshoppers, which

afford food for a species of curlew which is in great numbers in the

plain. He then proceeded up the river to the point of observation they

had fixed on; from which he went two miles N. 15° W. to a bluff point on

the north side of the river: thence his course was N. 30° W. for two

miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south. The part of the

river along which he passed is from forty to sixty yards wide, the

current strong, the water deep and turbid, the banks falling in, the

salts, coal and mineral appearances are as usual, and in every respect,

except as to size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds

are narrow but well supplied with wood: the bluffs are principally of

dark brown yellow, and some white clay with freestone in some places.

From this point the river bore N. 20° E. to a bluff on the south, at the

distance of twelve miles: towards this he directed his course, ascending

the hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing through

plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines so steep and

numerous that he resolved to return to the river and follow its banks.

He reached it about four miles from the beginning of his course, and

encamped on the north in a bend among some bushes which sheltered the

party from the wind: the air was very cold, the northwest wind high, and

the rain wet them to the skin. Besides the game just mentioned, he

observed buffaloe, elk, wolves, foxes, and we got a blaireau and a

weasel, and wounded a large brown bear, whom it was too late to pursue.

Along the river are immense quantities of roses which are now in full

bloom, and which make the low grounds a perfect garden.

Wednesday 5. The rain fell during the greater part of the last night,

and in the morning the weather was cloudy and cold, with a high

northwest wind: at sunrise he proceeded up the river eight miles to the

bluff on the left side, towards which he had been directing his course

yesterday. Here he found the bed of a creek twenty-five yards wide at

the entrance, with some timber, but no water, notwithstanding the rain:

it is, indeed, astonishing to observe the vast quantities of water

absorbed by the soil of the plains, which being opened in large crevices

presents a fine rich loam: at the mouth of this stream (which he called

Lark creek) the bluffs are very steep and approach the river so that he

ascended them, and crossing the plains reached the river, which from the

last point bore N. 50° W: four miles from this place it extended north

two miles. Here he discovered a lofty mountain standing alone at the

distance of more than eighty miles in the direction of N. 30° W. and

which from its conical figure he called Tower mountain. He then

proceeded on these two hills and afterwards in different courses six

miles, when he again changed for a western course across a deep bend

along the south side: in making this passage over the plains he found

them like those of yesterday, level and beautiful, with great quantities

of buffaloes, and some wolves, foxes, and antelopes, and intersected

near the river by deep ravines. Here at the distance of from one to nine

miles from the river, he met the largest village of barking squirrels

which we had yet seen: for he passed a skirt of their territory for

seven miles. He also saw near the hills a flock of the mountain cock or

a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail, which the Indians

below had informed us were common among the Rock mountains. Having

finished his course of ten miles west across a bend, he continued two

miles N. 80° W. and from that point discovered some lofty mountains to

the northwest of Tower mountain and bearing N. 65° W. at eighty or one

hundred miles distance: Here he encamped on the north side in a handsome

low ground, on which were several old stick lodges: there had been but

little timber on the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is

a greater quantity than usual. The river itself is about eighty yards

wide, from six to ten feet deep, and has a strong steady current. The

party had killed five elk, and a mule-deer; and by way of experiment

roasted the burrowing squirrels, which they found to be well flavoured

and tender.

Thursday 6. Captain Lewis was now convinced that this river pursued a

direction too far north for our route to the Pacific, and therefore

resolved to return; but waited till noon to take a meridian altitude.

The clouds, however, which had gathered during the latter part of the

night continued and prevented the observation: part of the men were sent

forward to a commanding eminence, six miles S. 70° W; from which they

saw at the distance of about fifteen miles S. 80° W. a point of the

south bluff of the river, which thence bore northwardly. In their

absence two rafts had been prepared, and when they returned about noon,

the party embarked: but they soon found that the rafts were so small and

slender that the baggage was wet, and therefore it was necessary to

abandon them, and go by land. They therefore crossed the plains, and at

the distance of twelve miles came to the river, through a cold storm

from the northeast, accompanied by showers of rain. The abruptness of

the cliffs compelled them, after going a few miles, to leave the river

and meet the storm in the plains. Here they directed their course too

far northward, in consequence of which they did not meet the river till

late at night, after having travelled twenty-three miles since noon, and

halted at a little below the entrance of Lark creek. They had the good

fortune to kill two buffaloe which supplied them with supper, but spent

a very uncomfortable night without any shelter from the rain, which

continued till morning,

Friday 7, when at an early hour they continued down the river. The route

was extremely unpleasant, as the wind was high from the N.E. accompanied

with rain, which made the ground so slippery that they were unable to

walk over the bluffs which they had passed on ascending the river. The

land is the most thirsty we have ever seen; notwithstanding all the rain

which has fallen, the earth is not wet for more than two inches deep,

and resembles thawed ground; but if it requires more water to saturate

it than the common soils, on the other hand it yields its moisture with

equal difficulty. In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a

narrow pass thirty yards in length, captain Lewis slipped, and but for a

fortunate recovery, by means of his espontoon, would then have been

precipitated into the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. He

had just reached a spot where by the assistance of his espontoon he

could stand with tolerable safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry

out, good God captain what shall I do? he turned instantly and found it

was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow

pass, and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice where he

lay on his belly, with his right arm and leg over the precipice, while

with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on to keep

himself from being dashed to pieces below. His dreadful situation was

instantly perceived by captain Lewis, who stifling his alarm, calmly

told him that he was in no danger; that he should take his knife out of

his belt with the right hand, and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to

receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did this, and

then raised himself on his knees; captain Lewis then told him to take

off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding the

knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled in

this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted

this passage, were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of

the bluff, where they found the water breast high. This adventure taught

them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as

the plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult to pass,

they continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds,

sometimes up to their arms in the water, and when it became too deep to

wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In

this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having

made only eighteen miles during the whole day, encamped in an old Indian

lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked

part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having

eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day slept

comfortably on some willow boughs.

CHAPTER X.

Return of captain Lewis--Account of captain Clarke's researches

with his exploring party--Perilous situation of one of his

party--Tansy river described--The party still believing the

southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend

it--Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called

cache--Captain Lewis explores the southern fork--Falls of the

Missouri discovered, which ascertains the question--Romantic

scenery of the surrounding country--Narrow escape of captain

Lewis--The main body under captain Clarke approach within five

miles of the falls, and prepare for making a portage over the

rapids.

Saturday 8. It continued to rain moderately all last night, and the

morning was cloudy till about ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and

became a fine day. They breakfasted about sunrise and then proceeded

down the river in the same way as they had done yesterday, except that

the travelling was somewhat better, as they had not so often to wade,

though they passed some very dangerous bluffs. The only timber to be

found is in the low grounds which are occasionally on the river, and

these are the haunts of innumerable birds, who, when the sun began to

shine, sang very delightfully. Among these birds they distinguished the

brown thrush, robin, turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small

blackbird, the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole of

the party were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri, but

captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream,

nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of

Maria's river. After travelling all day they reached the camp at five

o'clock in the afternoon, and found captain Clarke and the party very

anxious for their safety, as they had staid two days longer than had

been expected, and as captain Clarke had returned at the appointed time,

it was feared that they had met with some accident.

Captain Clarke on setting out with five men on the 4th, went seven

miles on a course S. 25° W. to a spring; thence he went S. 20° W. for

eight miles to the river where was an island, from which he proceeded in

a course N. 45° W. and approached the river at the distance of three,

five, and thirteen miles, at which place they encamped in an old Indian

lodge made of sticks and bark. In crossing the plains they observed

several herds of buffaloe, some muledeer, antelopes and wolves. The

river is rapid and closely hemmed in by high bluffs, crowded with bars

of gravel, with little timber on the low grounds, and none on the

highlands. Near the camp this evening, a white bear attacked one of the

men, whose gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made

towards a tree, but was so closely pursued, that as he ascended the tree

he struck the bear with his foot. The bear not being able to climb,

waited till he should be forced to come down; and as the rest of the

party were separated from him by a perpendicular cliff of rocks, which

they could not descend, it was not in their power to give him any

assistance: fortunately however at last the bear became frighted at

their cries and firing, and released the man. In the afternoon it

rained, and during the night there fell both rain and snow, and in the

morning.

June 5, the hills to the S.E. were covered with snow, and the rain

continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20° W. near the river

several miles, till at the distance of eleven miles they reached a

ridge, from the top of which on the north side they could plainly

discern a mountain to the S. and W. at a great distance covered with

snow; a high ridge projecting from the mountains to the southeast

approaches the river on the southeast side, forming some cliffs of dark

hard stone. They also saw that the river ran for a great distance west

of south, with a rapid current, from which as well as its continuing of

the same width and depth, captain Clarke thought it useless to advance

any further, and therefore returned across the level plain in a

direction north 30° east, and reached at the distance of twenty miles

the little river which is already mentioned as falling into the north

fork, and to which they gave the name of Tansy river, from the great

quantity of that herb growing on its banks. Here they dined, and then

proceeded on a few miles by a place where the Tansy breaks through a

high ridge on its north side and encamped.

The next day, 6th, the weather was cold, raw and cloudy, with a high

northeast wind. They set out early, down the Tansy, whose low grounds

resemble precisely, except as to extent, those of the Missouri before it

branches, containing a great proportion of a species of cottonwood, with

a leaf like that of the wild cherry. After halting at twelve o'clock for

dinner, they ascended the plain, and at five o'clock reached the camp

through the rain, which had fallen without intermission since noon.

During his absence the party had been occupied in dressing skins, and

being able to rest themselves were nearly freed from their lameness and

swollen feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, it

rained, the wind being from the southwest off the mountains: yet the

rivers are falling, and the thermometer 40° above 0. The rain continued

till the next day, 8th, at ten o'clock, when it cleared off, and the

weather became fine, the wind high from the southwest. The rivers at the

point have now fallen six inches since our arrival, and this morning the

water of the south fork became of a reddish brown colour, while the

north branch continued of its usual whitish appearance. The mountains to

the south are covered with snow.

Sunday, 9th. We now consulted upon the course to be pursued. On

comparing our observations, we were more than ever convinced of what we

already suspected, that Mr. Arrowsmith is incorrect in laying down in

the chain of Rocky mountains one remarkable mountain called the Tooth,

nearly as far south as 45°, and said to be so marked from the

discoveries of Mr. Fidler. We are now within one hundred miles of the

Rocky* mountains and in the latitude of 47° 24' 12" 8, and therefore it

is highly improbable that the Missouri should make such a bend to the

south before it reaches the Rocky mountains, as to have suffered Mr.

Fidler to come as low as 45° along the eastern borders without touching

that river: yet the general course of Maria's river from this place for

fifty-nine miles, as far as captain Lewis ascended, was north 69° west,

and the south branch, or what we consider the Missouri, which captain

Clarke had examined as far as forty-five miles in a straight line, ran

in a course south 29° west, and as far as it could be seen went

considerably west of south, whence we conclude that the Missouri itself

enters the Rocky mountains to the north of 45°. In writing to the

president from our winter quarters, we had already taken the liberty of

advancing the southern extremity of Mr. Fidler's discoveries about a

degree to the northward, and this from Indian information as to the

bearing of the point at which the Missouri enters the mountain; but we

think actual observation will place it one degree still further to the

northward. This information of Mr. Fidler however, incorrect as it is,

affords an additional reason for not pursuing Maria's river; for if he

came as low even as 47° and saw only small streams coming down from the

mountains, it is to be presumed that these rivulets do not penetrate the

Rocky mountains so far as to approach any navigable branch of the

Columbia, and they are most probably the remote waters of some northern

branch of the Missouri. In short, being already in latitude 47° 24' we

cannot reasonably hope by going farther to the northward to find between

this place and the Saskashawan any stream which can, as the Indians

assure us the Missouri does, possess a navigable current for some

distance in the Rocky mountains: the Indians had assured us also that

the water of the Missouri was nearly transparent at the falls; this is

the case with the southern branch; that the falls lay a little to the

south of sunset from them; this too is in favour of the southern fork,

for it bears considerably south of this place which is only a few

minutes to the northward of fort Mandan; that the falls are below the

Rocky mountains and near the northern termination of one range of those

mountains: now there is a ridge of mountains which appear behind the

South mountains and terminates to the southwest of us, at a sufficient

distance from the unbroken chain of the Rocky mountains to allow space

for several falls, indeed we fear for too many of them. If too the

Indians had ever passed any stream as large as this southern fork on

their way up the Missouri, they would have mentioned it; so that their

silence seems to prove that this branch must be the Missouri. The body

of water also which it discharges must have been acquired from a

considerable distance in the mountains, for it could not have been

collected in the parched plains between the Yellowstone and the Rocky

mountains, since that country could not supply nourishment for the dry

channels which we passed on the south, and the travels of Mr. Fidler

forbid us to believe that it could have been obtained from the mountains

towards the northwest.

These observations which satisfied our mind completely we communicated

to the party: but every one of them were of a contrary opinion; and much

of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the

Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was

the genuine Missouri. The men therefore mentioned that although they

would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were

afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky mountains

and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that

nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error,

it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land

until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime in

order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we determined to

deposit here one of the periogues and all the heavy baggage which we

could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, and

tools: this would at once lighten the other boats, and give them the

crew which had been employed on board the periogue.

Monday, 10. The weather being fair and pleasant we dried all our baggage

and merchandize and made our deposit. These holes or _caches_ as they

are called by the Missouri traders are very common, particularly among

those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandize will keep

perfectly sound for years, and are protected from robbery: our cache is

built in this manner: In the high plain on the north side of the

Missouri and forty yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation,

and then describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter,

removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the hole is then

sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep, or more if the ground be not firm.

It is now worked gradually wider as they descend, till at length it

becomes six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower

part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As

the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a

skin or cloth, in which it is carried away and usually thrown into the

river or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or

four inches in thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown

hay or a hide perfectly dry. The goods being well aired and dried are

laid on this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried

sticks in proportion as the merchandize is stowed away: when the hole is

nearly full, a skin is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown

and beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed the

whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest

appearance of an excavation. In addition to this we made another of

smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder,

and our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools

we carry with us as require mending. To guard against accident, we hid

two parcels of lead and powder in the two distinct places. The red

periogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island at the entrance of

Maria's river, and secured by being fastened to the trees from the

effect of any floods. In the evening there was a high wind from the

southwest accompanied with thunder and rain. We now made another

observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean

latitude of the entrance of Maria's river, as deduced from three

observations, is 47° 25' 17" 2 north. We saw a small bird like the blue

thrush or catbird which we had not before met, and also observed that

the beemartin or kingbird is common to this country although there are

no bees here, and in fact we have not met with the honey-bee since

leaving the Osage river.

Tuesday 11. This morning captain Lewis with four men set out on their

expedition up the south branch. They soon reached the point where the

Tansy river approaches the Missouri, and observing a large herd of elk

before them, descended and killed several which they hung up along the

river so that the party in the boats might see them as they came along.

They then halted for dinner; but captain Lewis who had been for some

days afflicted with the dysentery, was now attacked with violent pains

attended by a high fever and was unable to go on. He therefore encamped

for the night under some willow boughs: having brought no medicine he

determined to try an experiment with the small twigs of the chokecherry,

which being stripped of their leaves and cut into pieces about two

inches long were boiled in pure water, till they produced a strong black

decoction of an astringent bitter taste; a pint of this he took at

sunset, and repeated the dose an hour afterwards. By ten o'clock he was

perfectly relieved from pain, a gentle perspiration ensued, his fever

abated and in the morning he was quite recovered. One of the men caught

several dozen fish of two species: the first is about nine inches long,

of a white colour, round in shape; the mouth is beset both above and

below with a rim of fine sharp teeth, the eye moderately large, the

pupil dark, and the iris narrow, and of a yellowish brown colour: in

form and size it resembles the white chub of the Potomac, though its

head is proportionably smaller; they readily bite at meat or

grasshoppers; but the flesh though soft and of a fine white colour is

not highly flavoured. The second species is precisely of the form and

about the size of the fish known by the name of the hickory shad or old

wife, though it differs from it in having the outer edge of both the

upper and lower jaw set with a rim of teeth, and the tongue and palate

also are defended by long sharp teeth bending inwards, the eye is very

large, the iris wide and of a silvery colour; they do not inhabit muddy

water, and the flavour is much superior to that of the former species.

Of the first kind we had seen a few before we reached Maria's river; but

had found none of the last before we caught them in the Missouri above

its junction with that river. The white cat continues as high as Maria's

river, but they are scarce in this part of the river, nor have we caught

any of them since leaving the Mandans which weighed more than six

pounds.

Of other game they saw a great abundance even in their short march of

nine miles.

Wednesday 12. This morning captain Lewis left the bank of the river in

order to avoid the steep ravines which generally run from the shore to

the distance of one or two miles in the plain: having reached the opened

country he went for twelve miles in a course a little to the west of

southwest, when the sun becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned to

the river in quest of water and to kill something for breakfast, there

being no water in the plain, and the buffaloe discovering them before

they came within gunshot took to flight. They reached the banks in a

handsome open low ground with cottonwood, after three miles walk. Here

they saw two large brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire,

a circumstance which has never before occurred since we have seen that

animal. Having made a meal of a part and hung the remainder on a tree

with a note for captain Clarke, they again ascended the bluffs into the

open plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing squirrel, also

some wolves, antelopes, muledeer, and vast herds of buffaloe. They soon

crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and

from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky mountains, which are now

completely covered with snow: their general course is from southeast to

the north of northwest, and they seem to consist of several ranges which

successively rise above each other till the most distant mingles with

the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the river,

where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood; and although it was not

sunset, and they had only come twenty-seven miles, yet captain Lewis

felt weak from his late disorder, and therefore determined to go no

further that night. In the course of the day they killed a quantity of

game, and saw some signs of otter as well as beaver, and many tracks of

the brown bear: they also caught great quantities of the white fish

mentioned yesterday. With the broad-leafed cottonwood, which has formed

the principal timber of the Missouri, is here mixed another species

differing from the first only in the narrowness of its leaf and the

greater thickness of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed,

about two and a half or three inches long and from three quarters of an

inch to an inch in width; it is smooth and thick sometimes slightly

grooved or channeled with the margin a little serrate, the upper disk of

a common, the lower of a whitish green. This species seems to be

preferred by the beaver to the broad-leaved, probably because the former

affords a deeper and softer bark.

Thursday 13. They left their encampment at sunrise, and ascending the

river hills went for six miles in a course generally southwest, over a

country which though more waving than that of yesterday may still be

considered level. At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most

beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffaloe than we had ever

before seen at a single view. To the southwest arose from the plain two

mountains of a singular appearance and more like ramparts of high

fortifications than works of nature. They are square figures with sides

rising perpendicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet,

formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. Finding

that the river here bore considerably to the south, and fearful of

passing the falls before reaching the Rocky mountains, they now changed

their course to the south, and leaving those insulated hills to the

right proceeded across the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had

gone about two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound

of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which seemed driven by

the high southwest wind arose above the plain like a column of smoke and

vanished in an instant. Towards this point he directed his steps, and

the noise increasing as he approached soon became too tremendous to be

mistaken for any thing but the great falls of the Missouri. Having

travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound he reached the falls

about twelve o'clock, the hills as he approached were difficult of

access and two hundred feet high: down these he hurried with impatience

and seating himself on some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed

the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object which has since the

creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to

civilization.

[Illustration: The Falls and Portage]

The river immediately at its cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is

pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about

one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the

bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls.

For ninety or a hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in

one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The

remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid

current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat

projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white

foam two hundred yards in length, and eighty in perpendicular elevation.

This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in

columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger

masses of the white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest

colours of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury

against a ledge of rocks which extend across the river at one hundred

and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the

north, to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks rise

only a few feet above the water, and when the river is high the stream

finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher parts

of the ledge which then rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly

within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and the

perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with

great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks which

serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres shaded

with cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same

tree, where are several Indian cabins of sticks; below the point of them

the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface of

the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the

distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment

of solid perpendicular rock about sixty feet high, projecting at right

angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four

yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads

itself to its usual distance of three hundred yards, though with more

than its ordinary rapidity.

The hunters who had been sent out now returned loaded with buffaloe

meat, and captain Lewis encamped for the night under a tree near the

falls. The men were again despatched to hunt for food against the

arrival of the party, and captain Lewis walked down the river to

discover if possible some place where the canoes might be safely drawn

on shore, in order to be transported beyond the falls. He returned

however without discovering any such spot, the river for three miles

below being one continued succession of rapids and cascades, overhung

with perpendicular bluffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet

high; in short, it seems to have worn itself a channel through the solid

rock. In the afternoon they caught in the falls some of both kinds of

the white fish, and half a dozen trout from sixteen to twenty-three

inches long, precisely resembling in form and the position of its fins

the mountain or speckled trout of the United States, except that the

specks of the former are of a deep black, while those of the latter are

of a red or gold colour: they have long sharp teeth on the palate and

tongue, and generally a small speck of red on each side behind the front

ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good

order of a rose-coloured red.

Friday 14. This morning one of the men was sent to captain Clarke with

an account of the discovery of the falls, and after employing the rest

in preserving the meat which had been killed yesterday, captain Lewis

proceeded to examine the rapids above. From the falls he directed his

course southwest up the river: after passing one continued rapid, and

three small cascades, each three or four feet high, he reached at the

distance of five miles a second fall. The river is about four hundred

yards wide, and for the distance of three hundred throws itself over to

the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name

of the Crooked falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely

upwards about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms an acute angle

downwards nearly to the commencement of four small islands close to the

northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, a distance

of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping rock

with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall. Above this fall the

river bends suddenly to the northward: while viewing this place captain

Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and crossing the point of a hill for

a few hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature:

the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which

without a single niche and with an edge as straight and regular as if

formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other

for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an

even uninterrupted sheet to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet,

whence dashing against the rocky bottom it rushes rapidly down, leaving

behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river. The scene which

it presented was indeed singularly beautiful, since without any of the

wild irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular

elegances which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful

waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming

prospect, when at the distance of half a mile captain Lewis observed

another of a similar kind: to this he immediately hastened, and found a

cascade stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile with a

descent of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six

feet. This too in any other neighborhood would have been an object of

great magnificence, but after what he had just seen it became of

secondary interest; his curiosity being however awakened, he determined

to go on even should night overtake him to the head of the falls. He

therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one

constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which

the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level

with the plains. At the distance of two and a half miles he arrived at

another cataract of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred

yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the

river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one

third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the

water in its passage and gives it a curve. On the south side is a

beautiful plain a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north

the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river.

Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river well

covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed its

nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose

dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that

surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from the

falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the

Indians who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the

falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except

that they did not do justice to their height. Just above this is a

cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as could be discerned,

the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain Lewis now ascended

the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a delightful plain

extending from the river to the base of the Snow mountains to the south

and southwest. Along this wide level country the Missouri pursued its

winding course, filled with water to its even and grassy banks, while

about four miles above it was joined by a large river flowing from the

northwest through a valley three miles in width, and distinguished by

the timber which adorned its shores; the Missouri itself stretches to

the south in one unruffled stream of water as if unconscious of the

roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks

of geese, while numerous herds of buffaloe are feeding on the plains

which surround it.

Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards

the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a

thousand buffaloe, and being desirous of providing for supper shot one

of them; the animal began to bleed, and captain Lewis who had forgotten

to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when he

beheld a large brown bear who was stealing on him unperceived, and was

already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted

his rifle, but remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that

he had not time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in

flight. It was in the open level plain, not a bush nor a tree within

three hundred yards, the bank of the river sloping and not more than

three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of concealment:

captain Lewis therefore thought of retreating in a quick walk as fast as

the bear advanced towards the nearest tree; but as soon as he turned the

bear ran open mouth and at full speed upon him. Captain Lewis ran about

eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed

on his mind that by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear

would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of

his life, he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about waist

deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The bear

arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him, but as soon as he

put himself in this position of defence, he seemed frightened, and

wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued.

Very glad to be released from this danger, captain Lewis returned to the

shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as

if he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not

conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated

himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the

furious animal, and learnt from the whole adventure never to suffer his

rifle to be a moment unloaded. He now resumed his progress in the

direction which the bear had taken towards the western river, and found

it a handsome stream about two hundred yards wide, apparently deep,

with a gentle current; its waters clear, and its banks, which were

formed principally of dark brown and blue clay, are about the same

height as those of the Missouri, that is from three to five feet. What

was singular was that the river does not seem to overflow its banks at

any season, while it might be presumed from its vicinity to the

mountains, that the torrents arising from the melting of the snows,

would sometimes cause it to swell beyond its limits. The contrary fact

would induce a belief that the Rocky mountains yield their snows very

reluctantly and equably to the sun, and are not often drenched by very

heavy rains. This river is no doubt that which the Indians call Medicine

river, which they mentioned as emptying into the Missouri, just above

the falls. After examining Medicine river, captain Lewis set out at half

after six o'clock in the evening on his return towards the camp, which

he estimated at the distance of twelve miles. In going through the low

grounds on Medicine river he met an animal which at a distance he

thought was a wolf, but on coming within sixty paces, it proved to be

some brownish yellow animal standing near its burrow, which, when he

came nigh, crouched and seemed as if about to spring on him. Captain

Lewis fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From the track and

the general appearance of the animal he supposed it to be of the tiger

kind. He then went on, but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired

against him, three buffaloe bulls which were feeding with a large herd

at the distance of half a mile, left their companions and ran at full

speed towards him. He turned round, and unwilling to give up the field

advanced towards them: when they came within a hundred yards, they

stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came.

He now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange

adventures and sights of the day which crowded on his mind so rapidly

that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the

thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not dispel at every

moment the illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very

anxious for his safety, and who had already decided on the route which

each should take in the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued he

supped and slept well during the night.

Saturday, 15. The men were again sent out to bring in the game killed

yesterday and to procure more: they also obtained a number of fine trout

and several small catfish weighing about four pounds, and differing from

the white catfish lower down the Missouri. On awaking this morning

captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree

under which he had been sleeping. He killed it, and found it like those

we had seen before, differing from those of the Atlantic states, not in

its colours but in the form and arrangement of them; it had one hundred

and seventy-six scuta on the abdomen, and seventeen half-formed scuta on

the tail. There is a heavy dew on the grass about the camp every

morning, which no doubt proceeds from the mist of the falls, as it takes

place no where in the plains nor on the river except here. The messenger

sent to captain Clarke returned with information of his having arrived

five miles below at a rapid, which he did not think it prudent to ascend

and would wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoined him.

On Tuesday 11th, the day when captain Lewis left us, we remained at the

entrance of Maria's river and completed the deposits of all the articles

with which we could dispense. The morning had been fair with a high wind

from the southwest, which shifted in the evening to northwest, when the

weather became cold and the wind high. The next morning,

Wednesday, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day and a southwest

wind. The river was now so crowded with islands that within the distance

of ten miles and a half we passed eleven of different dimensions before

reaching a high black bluff in a bend on the left, where we saw a great

number of swallows. Within one mile and a half farther we passed four

small islands, two on each side, and at fifteen miles from our

encampment reached a spring which the men called Grog spring: it is on

the northern shore, and at the point where Tansy river approaches within

one hundred yards of the Missouri. From this place we proceeded three

miles to a low bluff on the north opposite to an island, and spent the

night in an old Indian encampment. The bluffs under which we passed were

composed of a blackish clay and coal for about eighty feet, above which

for thirty or forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. The river is very

rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different shapes and

sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great danger in the course of

the day. We had a few drops of rain about two o'clock in the afternoon.

The only animals we killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers

of rattlesnakes.

Thursday, 13. The morning was fair and there was some dew on the ground.

After passing two islands we reached at the distance of a mile and a

half a small rapid stream fifty yards wide, emptying itself on the

south, rising in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen

miles distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel

for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow river: opposite

to its entrance is another island: at one mile and three quarters is

a black bluff of slate on the south; nine miles beyond which, after

passing ten islands, we came to on the southern shore near an old Indian

fortified camp, opposite the lower point of an island, having made

thirteen miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of the

river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the navigation very

disagreeable: along the banks we distinguished several low bluffs or

cliffs of slate. There were great numbers of geese and goslings; the

geese not being able to fly at this season. Gooseberries are ripe and in

great abundance; the yellow currant is also common, but not yet ripe.

Our game consisted of buffaloe and goats.

Friday, 14. Again the day is fine. We made two miles to a small island

in the southern bend, after passing several bad rapids. The current

becomes indeed swifter as we ascend and the canoes frequently receive

water as we drag them with difficulty along. At the distance of six

miles we reached captain Clarke's camp on the fourth, which is on the

north side and opposite to a large gravelly bar. Here the man sent by

captain Lewis joined us with the pleasing intelligence that he had

discovered the falls, and was convinced that the course we were pursuing

was that of the true Missouri. At a mile and a half we reached the upper

point of an island, three quarters of a mile beyond which we encamped on

the south, after making only ten and a quarter miles. Along the river

was but little timber, but much hard slate in the bluffs.

Saturday, 15. The morning being warm and fair we set out at the usual

hour, but proceeded with great difficulty in consequence of the

increased rapidity of the current. The channel is constantly obstructed

by rocks and dangerous rapids. During the whole progress the men are

in the water hauling the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and round

stones which cut their feet or cause them to fall. The rattlesnakes too

are so numerous that the men are constantly on their guard against being

bitten by them; yet they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished

cheerfulness. We hear the roar of the falls very distinctly this

morning. At three and three quarter miles we came to a rock in a bend

to the south, resembling a tower. At six and three quarter miles we

reached a large creek on the south, which after one of our men we called

Shield's creek. It is rapid in its course, about thirty yards wide, and

on sending a person five miles up it proved to have a fall of fifteen

feet, and some timber on its low ground. Above this river the bluffs of

the Missouri are of red earth mixed with stratas of black stone; below

it we passed some white clay in the banks which mixes with water in

every respect like flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached

a point on the north opposite an island and a bluff; and one mile and

a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on the north

side, having made twelve miles. Here we found a rapid so difficult

that we did not think proper to attempt the passage this evening, and

therefore sent to captain Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw

a number of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two former

with their young. The river rose a little this evening, but the timber

is still so scarce that we could not procure enough for our use during

the night.

Sunday, June 16. Some rain fell last night, and this morning the weather

was cloudy and the wind high from the southwest. We passed the rapid by

doubly manning the periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a

mile and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found to be a

continued succession of cascades as far as the view extended, which was

about two miles. About a mile above where we halted was a large creek

falling in on the south, opposite to which is a large sulphur spring

falling over the rocks on the north: captain Lewis arrived at two from

the falls about five miles above us, and after consulting upon the

subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed a camp on

the north, having come three quarters of a mile to-day. From our own

observation we had deemed the south side to be the most favourable for a

portage, but two men sent out for the purpose of examining it, reported

that the creek and the ravines intersected the plain so deeply that it

was impossible to cross it. Captain Clarke therefore resolved to examine

more minutely what was the best route: the four canoes were unloaded at

the camp and then sent across the river, where by means of strong cords

they were hauled over the first rapid, whence they may be easily drawn

into the creek. Finding too, that the portage would be at all events

too long to enable us to carry the boats on our shoulders, six men

were set to work to make wheels for carriages to transport them. Since

leaving Maria's river the wife of Chaboneau, our interpreter, has been

dangerously ill, but she now found great relief from the mineral water

of the sulphur spring. It is situated about two hundred yards from

the Missouri, into which it empties over a precipice of rock about

twenty-five feet high. The water is perfectly transparent, strongly

impregnated with sulphur, and we suspect iron also, as the colour of the

hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicates the presence of that

metal. In short the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that

of Bowyer's sulphur spring in Virginia.

Monday 17. Captain Clarke set out with five men to explore the country;

the rest were employed in hunting, making wheels and in drawing the five

canoes and all the baggage up the creek, which we now called Portage

creek: from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of the high

plain, while the bluffs of the creek lower down and of the Missouri,

both above and below its entrance, were so steep as to have rendered it

almost impracticable to drag them up from the Missouri. We found great

difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far, in

consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, which

just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet, and high

and sleep bluffs beyond it: we were very fortunate in finding just below

Portage creek a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and

large enough to make the carriage wheels; it was perhaps the only one

of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood, which we are

obliged to employ in the other parts of the work, is extremely soft and

brittle. The mast of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind,

supplied us with two axletrees. There are vast quantities of buffaloe

feeding in the plains or watering in the river, which is also strewed

with the floating carcases and limbs of these animals. They go in large

herds to water about the falls, and as all the passages to the river

near that place are narrow and steep, the foremost are pressed into the

river by the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen ten or

a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent

food for the wolves, bears, and birds of prey; and this circumstance may

account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the

neighbourhood.

Tuesday 18. The periogue was drawn up a little below our camp and

secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. We now began to form a cache

or place of deposit and to dry our goods and other articles which

required inspection. The wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought

us ten deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffaloe that came to

water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry growing

abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs: it is now ripe,

of a pale red colour, about the size of the common gooseberry, and like

it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small

whitish coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellowish slimy mucilaginous

substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered with

a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit though ripe retains its

withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high,

is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the

common gooseberry except in being smaller, and the berry is supported by

separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch long. There are also

immense quantities of grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, and

they no doubt contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not

generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leafed

and affords a fine pasture for the buffaloe.

Wednesday 19. The wind blew violently to-day, as it did yesterday, and

as it does frequently in this open country, where there is not a tree

to break or oppose its force. Some men were sent for the meat killed

yesterday which fortunately had not been discovered by the wolves.

Another party went to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope

may be induced to resort there, from there being more wood in that

neighborhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied in packing

the baggage and mending their moccasins, in order to prepare for the

portage. We caught a number of the white fish, but no catfish or

trout. Our poor Indian woman, who had recovered so far as to walk out,

imprudently ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some dried

fish occasioned a return of her fever.

The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed with octant

by back observation, was 53° 15', giving as the latitude of our camp,

47° 8' 59" 5"'.

Thursday 20. As we were desirous of getting meat enough to last us

during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted from their

labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters to-day: they killed

eleven buffaloe. This was indeed an easy labour, for there are vast

herds coming constantly to the opposite bank of the river to water; they

seem also to make much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring,

but whether from choice, or because it is more convenient than the

river, we cannot determine, as they sometimes pass near the spring and

go on to the river. Besides this spring, brackish water or that of a

dark colour impregnated with mineral salts, such as we have frequently

met on the Missouri, may be found in small quantities in some of the

steep ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at the

falls.

Captain Clarke returned this evening, having examined the whole course

of the river and fixed the route most practicable for the portage. The

first day, 17th, he was occupied in measuring the heights and distances

along the banks of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the

crooked falls, having very narrowly escaped falling into the river,

where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the cliffs near

the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued the same occupation

and arrived in the afternoon at the junction of Medicine and Missouri

rivers: up the latter he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile

an island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. One

mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large island; another

small island in the middle of the river, and one near the left shore at

the distance of three miles, opposite to the head of which he encamped

near the mouth of a creek which appeared to rise in the South mountain.

These three islands are opposite to each other, and we gave them the

name of the Whitebear islands from observing some of those animals on

them. He killed a beaver, an elk and eight buffaloe. One of the men who

was sent a short distance from the camp to bring home some meat, was

attacked by a white bear, and closely pursued within forty paces of the

camp, and narrowly escaped being caught. Captain Clarke immediately went

with three men in quest of the bear, which he was afraid might surprise

another of the hunters who was out collecting the game. The bear was

however too quick, for before captain Clarke could reach the man, the

bear had attacked him and compelled him to take refuge in the water. He

now ran off as they approached, and it being late they deferred pursuing

him till the next morning.

CHAPTER XI.

Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction

of the Medicine river--the difficulty of transporting the baggage

at the falls--the party employed in the construction of a boat of

skins--the embarrassments they had to encounter for want of proper

materials--during the work the party much troubled by white

bears--violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain

Clarke and his party--description of a remarkable

fountain--singular explosion heard from the Black mountains--the

boat found to be insufficient, and the serious disappointment of

the party--captain Clarke undertakes to repair the damage by

building canoes, and accomplishes the task.

On the 19th, captain Clarke not being able to find the bear mentioned in

the last chapter, spent the day in examining the country both above and

below the Whitebear islands, and concluded that the place of his

encampment would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. The

men were therefore occupied in drying the meat to be left here. Immense

numbers of buffaloe are every where round, and they saw a summer duck

which is now sitting. The next morning, 20th, he crossed the level

plain, fixed stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a

large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage farther from the

river: after this there being no other obstacle he went to the river

where he had first struck it, and took its courses and distances down to

the camp. From the draught and survey of captain Clarke, we had now a

clear and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the

Missouri.

This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives

the waters of Medicine river, which is one hundred and thirty-seven

yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and

twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it

gradually widens to one thousand four hundred yards, and at the distance

of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids,

narrowing as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north which had

withdrawn from the bank closely border the river, which, for the space

of three hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks with a

descent of thirty feet: in this course the current is contracted to five

hundred and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch

of five feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches;

this does not however fall immediately perpendicular, being stopped by a

part of the rock which projects at about one third of the distance.

After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which

the eagle has fixed its nest, the river goes on for five hundred and

thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent of

which is thirteen feet six inches till it is joined by a large fountain

boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, into which

it falls with a cascade of eight feet. It is of the most perfect

clearness and rather of a bluish cast; and even after falling into the

Missouri it preserves its colour for half a mile. From this fountain the

river descends with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred

and fourteen poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet from

this for a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, the river

descends fourteen feet seven inches including a perpendicular fall of

six feet seven inches. The river has now become pressed into a space of

four hundred and seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract by

falling over a plain rock the whole distance across the river to the

depth of forty-seven feet eight inches: after recovering itself the

Missouri then proceeds with an estimated descent of three feet, till at

the distance of one hundred and two poles it again is precipitated down

the Crooked falls of nineteen feet perpendicular; below this at the

mouth of a deep ravine is a fall of five feet, after which for the

distance of nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more

gradual, not being more than ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome

level plain for the space of one hundred and seventy-eight poles with a

computed descent of three feet, making a bend towards the north. Thence

it descends during four hundred and eight poles, about eighteen feet and

a half, when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety

poles beyond the great cataract, in approaching which it descends

thirteen feet within two hundred yards, and gathering strength from its

confined channel, which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide,

rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet and three

quarters of an inch. After raging among the rocks and losing itself in

foam, it is compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in

width: it continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of

a run or deep ravine where there is a fall of three feet, which, joined

to the decline of the river during that course, makes the descent six

feet. As it goes on the descent within the next two hundred and forty

poles is only four feet: from this passing a run or deep ravine the

descent for four hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and

forty poles a second descent of eighteen feet; thence one hundred and

sixty poles a descent of six feet; after which to the mouth of Portage

creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten

feet. From this survey and estimate it results that the river

experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the course

of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the rapids to

the mouth of Portage creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids

which extend for a mile below its entrance.

The latitude of our camp below the entrance of Portage creek, was found

to be 47° 7' 10" 3, as deduced from a meridian altitude of the sun's

lower limb taken with octant by back observation giving 53° 10'.

Friday, June 21. Having made the necessary preparations for continuing

our route, a part of the baggage was carried across the creek into the

high plain, three miles in advance and placed on one of the carriages

with truck wheels: the rest of the party was employed in drying meat and

dressing elk skins. We killed several muledeer and an elk, and observed

as usual vast quantities of buffaloe who came to drink at the river. For

the first time on the Missouri we have seen near the falls a species of

fishing duck, the body of which is brown and white, the wings white, and

the head and upper part of the neck of a brick red, with a narrow beak,

which seems to be of the same kind common in the Susquehanna, Potomac

and James' river. The little wood which this neighbourhood affords

consists of the broad and narrow-leafed cottonwood, the box alder, the

narrow and broad-leafed willow, the large or sweet willow, which was not

common below Maria's river, but which here attains the same size and has

the same appearance as in the Atlantic states. The undergrowth consists

of roses, gooseberries, currants, small honeysuckles, and the redwood,

the inner part of which the _engages_ or watermen are fond of smoking

when mixed with tobacco.

Saturday, 22. We now set out to pass the portage and halted for dinner

at eight miles distance near a little stream. The axletrees of our

carriage, which had been made of an old mast, and the cottonwood tongues

broke before we came there: but we renewed them with the timber of the

sweet willow, which lasted till within half a mile of our intended camp,

when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to take as much baggage as

we could carry on our backs down to the river, where we formed an

encampment in a small grove of timber opposite to the Whitebear islands.

Here the banks on both sides of the river are handsome, level, and

extensive; that near our camp is not more than two feet above the

surface of the water. The river is about eight hundred yards wide just

above these islands, ten feet deep in most places, and with a very

gentle current. The plains however on this part of the river are not so

fertile as those from the mouth of the Muscleshell and thence downwards;

there is much more stone on the sides of the hills and on the broken

lands than is to be found lower down. We saw in the plains vast

quantities of buffaloe, a number of small birds, and the large brown

curlew, which is now sitting, and lays its eggs, which are of a pale

blue with black-specks, on the ground without any nest. There is also a

species of lark much resembling the bird called the oldfield lark, with

a yellow breast and a black spot on the croup; though it differs from

the latter in having its tail formed of feathers of an unequal length

and pointed; the beak too is somewhat longer and more curved, and the

note differs considerably. The prickly pear annoyed us very much to-day

by sticking through our moccasins. As soon as we had kindled our fires

we examined the meat which captain Clarke had left here, but found that

the greater part of it had been taken by the wolves.

Sunday, 23. After we had brought up the canoe and baggage captain Clarke

went down to the camp at Portage creek, where four of the men had been

left with the Indian woman. Captain Lewis during the morning prepared

the camp, and in the afternoon went down in a canoe to Medicine river to

look after the three men who had been sent thither to hunt on the 19th,

and from whom nothing had as yet been heard. He went up the river about

half a mile and then walked along on the right bank, hallooing as he

went, till at the distance of five miles he found one of them who had

fixed his camp on the opposite bank, where he had killed seven deer and

dried about six hundred pounds of buffaloe meat, but had killed no elk,

the animal chiefly wanted. He knew nothing of his companions except that

on the day of their departure from camp he had left them at the falls

and come on to Medicine river, not having seen them since. As it was too

late to return captain Lewis passed over on a raft which he made for

the purpose and spent the night at Shannon's camp, and the next morning,

Monday, 24, sent J. Fields up the river with orders to go four miles and

return, whether he found the two absent hunters or not; then descending

the southwest side of Medicine river, he crossed the Missouri in the

canoe, and sent Shannon back to his camp to join Fields and bring the

meat which they had killed: this they did, and arrived in the evening at

the camp on Whitebear islands. A part of the men from Portage creek also

arrived with two canoes and baggage. On going down yesterday captain

Clarke cut off several angles of the former route so as to shorten the

Portage considerably, and marked it with stakes: he arrived there in

time to have two of the canoes carried up in the high plain about a mile

in advance. Here they all repaired their moccasins, and put on double

soals to protect them from the prickly pear and from the sharp points of

earth which have been formed by the trampling of the buffaloe during the

late rains: this of itself is sufficient to render the portage

disagreeable to one who had no burden; but as the men are loaded as

heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is really painful:

some are limping with the soreness of their feet, others are scarcely

able to stand for more than a few minutes from the heat and fatigue:

they are all obliged to halt and rest frequently, and at almost every

stopping place they fall and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet

no one complains and they go on with great cheerfulness. At their camp

Drewyer and Fields joined them, and while captain Lewis was looking for

them at Medicine river, they returned to report the absence of Shannon

about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffaloe

at the bend of the Missouri above the falls: and dried about eight

hundred pounds of meat and got one hundred pounds of tallow: they had

also killed some deer, but had seen no elk. After getting the party in

motion with the canoes captain Clarke returned to his camp at Portage

creek.

We were now occupied in fitting up a boat of skins, the frame of which

had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's ferry. It was made of

iron, thirty-six feet long, four feet and a half in the beam, and

twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had been sent this morning

for timber to complete it, but they could find scarcely any even

tolerably straight sticks four and a half feet long, and as the

cottonwood is too soft and brittle we were obliged to use the willow and

box-alder.

Tuesday, 25. The party returned to the lower camp. Two men were sent on

the large island to look for timber. J. Fields was sent up the Missouri

to hunt elk; but he returned about noon and informed us that a few miles

above he saw two white bear near the river, and in attempting to fire at

them came suddenly on a third, who being only a few steps off

immediately attacked him; that in running to escape from the monster he

leaped down a steep bank of the river, where falling on a bar of stone

he cut his hand and knee and bent his gun; but fortunately for him the

bank concealed him from his antagonist or he would have been most

probably lost. The other two returned with a small quantity of bark and

timber, which was all they could find on the island; but they had killed

two elk: these were valuable, as we are desirous of procuring the skins

of that animal in order to cover the boat, as they are more strong and

durable than those of the buffaloe, and do not shrink so much in drying.

The party that went to the lower camp had one canoe and the baggage

carried into the high plain to be ready in the morning, and then all who

could make use of their feet had a dance on the green to the music of a

violin. We have been unsuccessful in our attempt to catch fish, nor does

there seem to be any in this part of the river. We observe a number of

water terrapins. There are quantities of young blackbirds in these

islands just beginning to fly. Among the vegetable productions we

observe a species of wild rye which is now heading: it rises to the

height of eighteen or twenty inches, the beard remarkably fine and soft;

the culen is jointed, and in every respect except in height it resembles

the wild rye. Great quantities of mint too, like the peppermint, are

found here.

The winds are sometimes violent in these plains. The men inform us that

as they were bringing one of the canoes along on truck-wheels, they

hoisted the sail and the wind carried her along for some distance.

Wednesday 26. Two men were sent on the opposite side of the river for

bark and timber, of which they procured some, but by no means enough for

our purposes. The bark of the cottonwood is too soft, and our only

dependence is on the sweet willow, which has a tough strong bark; the

two hunters killed seven buffaloe. A party arrived from below with two

canoes and baggage, and the wind being from the southeast, they had made

considerable progress with the sails. On their arrival one of the men

who had been considerably heated and fatigued, swallowed a very hearty

draught of water, and was immediately taken ill; captain Lewis bled him

with a penknife, having no other instrument at hand, and succeeded in

restoring him to health the next day. Captain Clarke formed a second

cache or deposit near the camp, and placed the swivel under the rocks

near the river. The antelopes are still scattered through the plains;

the females with their young, which are generally two in number, and the

males by themselves.

Thursday 27. The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat,

except two who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud

arose from the southwest and brought with it violent thunder, lightning,

and hail: soon after it passed the hunters came in from about four miles

above us. They had killed nine elk, and three bear. As they were hunting

on the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where

from the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken

refuge: they therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a

tree about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves

securely, they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed towards

them. These animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree

and stopped to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head; he proved to

be the largest we have yet seen, his nose appeared to be like that of a

common ox, his fore feet measured nine inches across, and the hind feet

were seven inches wide, and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of

the talons. One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp

last night, and carried off some buffaloe meat which we had placed on a

pole. In the evening after the storm the water on this side of the river

became of a deep crimson colour, probably caused by some stream above

washing down a kind of soft red stone, which we observed in the

neighbouring bluffs and gullies. At the camp below, the men who left us

in the morning were busy in preparing their load for to-morrow, which

were impeded by the rain, hail, and the hard wind from the northwest.

Friday 28. The party all occupied in making the boat; they obtained a

sufficient quantity of willow bark to line her, and over these were

placed the elk skins, and when they failed we were obliged to use the

buffaloe hide. The white bear have now become exceedingly troublesome;

they constantly infest our camp during the night, and though they have

not attacked us, as our dog who patroles all night gives us notice of

their approach, yet we are obliged to sleep with our arms by our sides

for fear of accident, and we cannot send one man alone to any distance,

particularly if he has to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them

to-day on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much

occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure moment, and

then make a party to drive them from the islands. The river has risen

nine inches since our arrival here.

At Portage creek captain Clarke completed the cache, in which we

deposited whatever we could spare from our baggage; some ammunition,

provisions, books, the specimens of plants and minerals, and a draught

of the river from its entrance to fort Mandan. After closing it he broke

up the encampment, and took on all the remaining baggage to the high

plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen considerably in

consequence of the rain, and the water had become of a deep crimson

colour, and ill tasted; on overtaking the canoe he found that there was

more baggage than could be carried on the two carriages, and therefore

left some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and

proceeded on to Willowrun where he encamped for the night. Here they

made a supper on two buffaloe which they killed on the way; but passed

the night in the rain, with a high wind from the southwest. In the

morning,

Saturday 29, finding it impossible to reach the end of the portage with

their present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the

rain, he sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which

had been left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had

made on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the

Whitebear islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He

there left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls

accompanied by his servant York, Chaboneau and his wife with her young

child. On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the

west which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter, but

could find no place where they would be secure from being blown into the

river if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the

plains. At length about a quarter of a mile above the falls he found a

deep ravine where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took

refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river,

perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns,

compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower

was at first moderate, it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects of

which they did not feel: soon after a torrent of rain and hail

descended; the rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly

collecting in the ravine came rolling down in a dreadful current,

carrying the mud and rocks, and every thing that opposed it. Captain

Clarke fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing

up with his gun and shotpouch in his left hand, with his right clambered

up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her

arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her up the

hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that but for captain Clark,

himself and his wife and child would have been lost. So instantaneous

was the rise of the water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun

and began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he

could scarce get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of

fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they waited a moment

longer would have swept them into the river just above the great falls,

down which they must inevitable have been precipitated. They reached the

plain in safety, and found York who had separated from them just before

the storm to hunt some buffaloe, and was now returning to find his

master. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly that captain Clarke

lost his compass and umbrella. Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and

tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before

the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the current. He now

relinquished his intention of going up the river and returned to the

camp at Willowrun. Here he found that the party sent this morning for

the baggage, had all returned to camp in great confusion, leaving their

loads in the plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly

naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large and

driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it knocked

several of them down: one of them particularly was thrown on the ground

three times, and most of them bleeding freely and complained of being

much bruised. Willow run had risen six feet since the rain, and as the

plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at

their camp.

At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible to the

hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a heavy

shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the men

their respective employments, captain Lewis took one of them and went to

see the large fountain near the falls. For about six miles he passed

through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching the break of the

river hills, was overtaken by the gust of wind from the southwest

attended by lightning, thunder, and rain: fearing a renewal of the scene

on the 27th, they took shelter in a little gully where there were some

broad stones with which they meant to protect themselves against the

hail; but fortunately there was not much, and that of a small size; so

that they felt no inconvenience except that of being exposed without

shelter for an hour, and being drenched by the rain: after it was over

they proceeded to the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America.

It is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards from

the river, into which it falls over some steep irregular rocks with a

sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its course. The water

boils up from among the rocks and with such force near the centre, that

the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides of the

fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water is

extremely pure, cold and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated

with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent and

continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri,

notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some

time captain Lewis returned to the camp.

Sunday 30. In the morning Captain Clarke sent the men to bring up the

baggage left in the plains yesterday. On their return the axletrees and

carriages were repaired, and the baggage, conveyed on the shoulders of

the party across Willow run which had fallen as low as three feet. The

carriages being then taken over, a load of baggage was carried to the

six-mile stake, deposited there, and the carriages brought back. Such is

the state of the plains that this operation consumed the day. Two men

were sent to the falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they

found nothing but the compass covered with mud and sand at the mouth of

the ravine; the place at which captain Clarke had been caught by the

storm, was filled with large rocks. The men complain much of the bruises

received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number of buffaloe

appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of meat: captain

Clarke thought that at one view he must have seen at least ten thousand.

In the course of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the

southwest, after which the evening was fair.

At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, which is quite a

remarkable occurrence. The party continues to be occupied with the boat,

the crossbars for which are now finished, and there remain only the

strips to complete the wood work: the skins necessary to cover it have

already been prepared and they amount to twenty-eight elk skins and four

buffaloe skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we have had

occasion to observe always are found wherever there is timber. We also

killed a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this

neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the same species in

the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged bat for some

time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part of the

Missouri. We have not seen either that species of goatsucker or

nighthawk called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the

United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here; this last

prepares no nest but lays its eggs in the open plains; they generally

begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood in a

season: at the present moment they are just hatching their young.

Monday, July 1. After a severe day's work captain Clarke reached our

camp in the evening, accompanied by his party and all the baggage except

that left at the six-mile stake, for which they were too much fatigued

to return. The route from the lower camp on Portage creek to that near

Whitebear island, having been now measured and examined by captain

Clarke was as follows:

From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to the entrance of

Portage creek south 9° east for three quarters of a mile: thence on a

course south 10° east for two miles, though for the canoes the best

route is to the left of this course, and strikes Portage one mile and

three quarters from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill

which lies above Portage creek; from this south 18° west for four miles,

passing the head of a drain or ravine which falls into the Missouri

below the great falls, and to the Willow run which has always a

plentiful supply of good water and some timber: here the course turns to

south 45° west for four miles further; then south 66° west three miles,

crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain which falls

into the Missouri at the Crooked Falls, and reaching an elevated point

of the plain from which south 42° west. On approaching the river on this

course there is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after

which the road turns a little to the right of the course up the river to

our camp. The whole portage is seventeen and three quarter miles.

At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat and digging a pit

for the purpose of making some tar. The day has been warm, and the

mosquitoes troublesome. We were fortunate enough to observe equal

altitudes of the sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have

been prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the evening.

Tuesday, July 2d. A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then

despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest

were engaged in putting the boat together. This was accomplished in

about three hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the

crossbars or iron on the inner side of the boat which form the ends of

the sections. By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the

great delight of the party who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes

we find very troublesome.

Having completed our celestial observations we went over to the large

island to make an attack upon its inhabitants the bears, who have

annoyed us very much of late, and who were prowling about our camp all

last night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bear

forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed willow: into

this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear,

who instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately as he was rushing on the

hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which

enabled Drewyer to get out of his way: we then followed him one hundred

yards and found that the wound had been mortal. Not being able to

discover any more of these animals we returned to camp: here in turning

over some of the baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common

European rat, and of a lighter colour: the body and outer parts of the

legs and head of a light lead colour; the inner side of the legs as well

as the belly, feet and ears are white; the ears are not covered with

hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the toes also

are longer, the eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and

full; the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine fur

and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very close,

short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, although

its nests are very frequent among the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees,

where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the

prickly pear, on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The musquitoes

are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from the southwest:

these winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent which we

experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that subject is,

that the air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately

becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier than the

air below it descends into the rarified air below or into the vacuum

formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains.

The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains and distribute their

contents partially over the neighbouring plains. The same cloud will

discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain

only in a third, and all within the space of a few miles; while at the

same time there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us.

There is at present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them

on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having

disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still

entirely covered with snow, and indeed there has been no perceptible

diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a belief either

that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach their summits or

that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty when

the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and most probably from

this glittering appearance have derived the name of the Shining

mountains.

Wednesday, 3. Nearly the whole party were employed in different labours

connected with the boat, which is now almost completed: but we have not

as yet been able to obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will

occasion us not a little embarrassment. Having been told by the Indians

that on leaving the falls we should soon pass the buffaloe country, we

have before us the prospect of fasting occasionally; but in order to

provide a supply we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffaloe and

two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter have been all our

game for two or three days. At ten in the morning we had a light shower

which scarcely wet the grass.

Thursday, July 4th. The boat was now completed except what is in fact

the most difficult part, the making her seams secure. We had intended to

despatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this

spring; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to

calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided not to weaken

our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility.

We were afraid too that such a measure might dishearten those who

remain; and as we have never suggested it to them, they are all

perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise, and willing

to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a heavy dew this

morning.