Since the Siamese government assumed control in the North, it has

manifested a laudable zeal in establishing schools, in which, however,

the Siamese language alone is taught. His Majesty is most fortunate in

having such an able and progressive representative in the North as the

present High Commissioner, Chow Prayā Surasīh Visithasakdī. And the

country is no less fortunate in having a ruler whose high personal

character and wise administration command the confidence and respect of

all classes. He is interested in educating the people, and in everything

that advances the interests of the country.

I regard the educational question as the great question now before the

mission. The existence of the Siamese schools greatly emphasizes the

importance of our own work, and the necessity of maintaining a high

standard and a strong teaching force in Siamese, English, mathematics,

and the sciences. Their schools then will be tributary to ours.

The ultimate prevalence of the Siamese language in all the provinces

under Siamese rule, has been inevitable from the start. All governments

realize the importance of a uniform language in unifying a people, and

have no interest whatever in perpetuating a provincial dialect. The

Siamese, in fact, look down with a kind of disdain upon the Lāo speech,

and use it only as a temporary necessity during the period of

transition. And the Siamese is really the richer of the two by reason of

its large borrowing from the Pali, the better scholarship behind it, and

its closer connection with the outside world.

These two forms of the Tai speech—with a common idiom, and with the

great body of words in both identical, or differing only in vocal

inflection—have been kept apart chiefly by the fact that they have

different written characters. All of the Lāo women and children, and

two-thirds of the men had to be taught to read, whichever character were

adopted; and they could have learned the one form quite as easily as the

other. Had the mission adopted the Siamese character from the start, it

would now be master of the educational situation, working on a uniform

scheme with the Siamese Educational Department. Moreover, the Siamese

language in our schools would have been a distinct attraction toward

education and toward Christianity. And thus there would have been

available for the North the labours of two or more generations of able

workers in the southern mission, from which so far the Lāo church has

been mostly cut off. The whole Bible would have been accessible from the

first; whereas now nearly half of it remains still untranslated into the

Lāo. If the future needs of the Siamese provinces alone were to be

considered, it might even be doubted whether it were worth while to

complete the translation. When the monks, in their studies and teaching,

adopt the Siamese, as it is now the intention of the government to have

them do, Lāo books will soon be without readers throughout Siam. When

for the young a choice is possible in the matter of such a transcendent

instrument of thought and culture as language, all surely would wish

their training to be in that one which has in it the promise of the

future. These words are written in no idle criticism of the past, and in

no captious spirit regarding the present; but with full sense of the

gravity of the decision which confronts the mission in shaping its

educational policy for those who henceforth are to be Siamese.

Meanwhile, Lāo type and books in the Lāo dialect are needed, not merely

for the present generation of older people who cannot or will not learn

a new character, but also for the instruction and Christianization of

that much larger mass of Lāo folk beyond the frontier of Siam as

revealed by recent explorations. Removed, as these are, entirely from

the political and cultural influence of Siam, and divided up under the

jurisdiction of three great nations of diverse and alien speech, it is

inconceivable that the Siamese should ever win the ascendency over them.

Nor has either of these nations any immediate and pressing incentive

toward unifying the speech of its provincials, such as has actuated Siam

in this matter. If the field of the Lāo mission is to be extended to

include these “regions beyond”—as we all hope that it soon may be—Lāo

speech will inevitably be the medium of all its work there. Then all

that so far has been accomplished in the way of translation, writing,

and printing in the Lāo tongue, will be so much invaluable capital to be

turned over to the newer enterprise.

As regards the medical department of the mission, the Lāo field has been

an ideal one for its operation and for demonstration of its results.

When the field was virtually closed to the simple Gospel, the missionary

physician found everywhere an exalted, not to say exaggerated, idea of

the efficacy of foreign medicine, and a warm welcome for himself. Dr.

Cheek, who virtually founded our regular medical work among the Lāo, had

been on the field but a short time when he reported thirteen thousand

patients treated in one year. Probably no subsequent physician has had

such absolute control of the situation as he had, so long as he gave his

time and talents to his calling. But even the layman finds his medical

chest an invaluable adjunct to his evangelistic work, as we have had

frequent occasion to notice. We are devoutly thankful for—we might

almost envy—the influence that our medical missionaries have exerted in

the civilization and the Christianization of the Lāo tribes.

Somewhat of the present status and importance of the medical mission may

be judged from the following facts: Dr. J. W. McKean’s projected Leper

Asylum is the largest charitable institution ever planned in the

kingdom. The new Overbrook Hospital in Chieng Rāi, the generous gift of

the Gest family of Overbrook, Pennsylvania, is the finest building in

the mission. The Charles T. Van Santvoord Hospital in Lakawn is another

similar gift. Native physicians, trained as far as present opportunities

permit in Western surgery and medicine, are now maintained at certain

posts by the Siamese government. And especially the work of Dr. Arthur

Kerr, the government physician in Chiengmai, and his unremitting

kindness to the mission, are deeply appreciated by us all.

I cannot close these remarks without making special reference to the

work of my old friend and classmate and early associate in the mission,

Dr. Jonathan Wilson. In addition to his other most valuable labours, he

spent years of loving and devoted service in the preparation of hymns

for Lāo worship, Which will mould and lead the spiritual life of this

people for years to come. The Lāo are lovers of music. Many of them have

received much of their religious instruction through the use of these

hymns. His influence in the Lāo church may be compared to that of Watts

and Wesley for the English race.

* * * * *

Our long isolation as a mission has enabled us to appreciate the coming

to us in late years of a number of distinguished visitors, who have

greatly encouraged and strengthened us.

At the Annual Meeting in December, 1900, we were favoured with a visit

from our United States Minister, Hon. Hamilton King, and his two

daughters. Referring to his visit, the “Lāo Quarterly Letter” said: “His

addresses to the missionaries and native ministers and elders of the

Presbytery were much appreciated, and our large church building was

crowded on two successive Sabbaths to hear his eloquent words of

encouragement to native Christians, and his warm commendation of

Christianity to non-Christians. It has been said that one of the best

things which a United States Minister can take to a non-Christian land

is a good Christian home. And this is just what Mr. King has brought to

Siam.”

At the Annual Meeting of the following year, in Lakawn, we received the

first official visit we ever had from one of the Secretaries of our

Board, in the person of Rev. Arthur J. Brown, D.D., accompanied by his

good wife. The importance of these secretarial visits to distant

missions can hardly be overestimated. It is impossible to legislate

intelligently for a constituency twelve thousand miles away. No amount

of writing can give the varied kinds of information necessary for a full

understanding of the people, the missionaries, their surroundings, and

the needs of the field, which a single visit will convey. Then, too,

there are questions of administration and mission polity, requiring

settlement in the home Board, which can with difficulty be understood

through correspondence. Dr. Brown’s official visit was most helpful, as

also his words of encouragement, his sermons and addresses. The pleasure

derived from the personal visits of Dr. and Mrs. Brown to various

members of the Mission will always linger in our memories.

[Illustration:

HIS MAJESTY, MAHĀ VAJIRAVUDH, KING OF SIAM]

Another notable visit to Chiengmai was that of the Crown Prince of Siam,

now His Majesty Mahā Vajiravudh, in the winter of 1905-6. On this visit

His Royal Highness very graciously accepted the invitation of the

mission to lay the corner stone of the William Allen Butler Hall, the

recitation hall of the new Boys’ School. On that occasion he delivered

an address, of which the following is a translation:

“Ladies and Gentlemen:—I have listened with great pleasure to

the complimentary remarks which have just been made. I regard

them as indisputable evidence of your friendship for the whole

Kingdom of Siam.

“During my visit to the United States, the American people were

pleased to give me a most enthusiastic welcome. I may mention

particularly the sumptuous banquet with which your Board of

Foreign Missions honoured me. I perceived clearly that the

American people received me whole-heartedly and not

perfunctorily. This also made it evident to me that the American

people have a sincere friendship for the Kingdom of Siam. Of

this fact I was profoundly convinced, and I certainly shall not

soon forget my visit to the United States.

“This being so, I feel compelled to reciprocate this kindness to

the full extent of my ability. As my Royal Grandfather and my

Royal Father have befriended the missionaries, so I trust that I

too shall have opportunity, on proper occasions, to assist them

to the limits of my power.

“Your invitation to me to-day to lay the corner stone of your

new School Building, is another evidence of your friendship and

goodwill toward Siam. I have full confidence that you will make

every endeavour to teach the students to use their knowledge for

the welfare of their country. Therefore I take great pleasure in

complying with your request, and I invoke a rich blessing on

this new institution. May it prosper and fulfil the highest

expectations of its founders!”

In response to a request from the Principal that he would name the new

school, His Royal Highness sent the following reply:

“CHIENGMAI, January 2d, 1906.

“I have great pleasure in naming the new school, the foundation

stone of which I have just laid, The Prince Royal’s College. May

this School which I have so named, be prosperous, and realize

all that its well-wishers hope for it. May it long flourish, and

remain a worthy monument of the enterprise of the American

Presbyterian Church of Chiengmai. This is the wish of their

sincere friend,

“VAJIRAVUDH.”

Little did we then think that His Royal Highness would so soon be called

to fill the high office left vacant by the lamented death of his

distinguished father, King Chulalangkorn, which occurred October 22d,

1910.

In December, 1908, Mrs. McGilvary’s brother, Professor Cornelius B.

Bradley of the University of California, while on a visit to the land of

his birth and of his father’s labours, paid us a visit in the North. He

was present at our Annual Meeting in Lakawn, and on Sunday preached the

Communion sermon, and again in Chiengmai. It was to the astonishment of

all who heard him, both natives and foreigners, that he could converse

fluently and flawlessly, and could so preach, after an absence of

thirty-six years. It was upon this visit to Siam, that he made a special

study and translation of the Sukhōthai Stone—the earliest known monument

of the Siamese language.

In company with Professor Bradley came Mr. William McClusky, a business

man, on a visit to his daughter, Mrs. M. B. Palmer. The significance of

this visit lies in the fact that Mr. McClusky has remained among us, and

has identified himself with the work of the mission, endearing himself

to all.

* * * * *

In 1905 Mrs. McGilvary returned to the United States for a much-needed

change. I remained on the field until 1906, when I was cabled for on

account of the very serious state of her health. I found her very low,

and my visit was devoted to the restoration of her health. In the autumn

she was sufficiently recovered to make our return possible, and the

voyage was undertaken in compliance with her own ardent wish. She was

greatly benefited by the sea-voyage, and since her return her health has

been fully restored.

On May 16th, 1908, my daughter, Mrs. William Harris, gave a dinner in

honour of my eightieth birthday, at which all our missionary and

European friends in Chiengmai were guests. Dr. McKean expressed the

congratulations of my friends in an address, from which I quote the

following: “Eighty years of age, sir, but not eighty years old! We do

not associate the term old age with you, for you seem to have drunk of

the fount of perpetual youth.” But the sentiment to which I most

heartily subscribe is the following: “There is a common maxim among men

to which we all readily assent; namely, that no man is able to do his

best work in the world without having received from God that best of all

temporal gifts, a helpmeet for him. We most heartily congratulate you

that, early in your life in Siam, Mrs. McGilvary was made a partner in

this great life-work. And no one knows so well as yourself how large a

part she has had in making possible much of the strenuous work that you

have done. To her, likewise, we offer on this happy occasion our hearty

congratulations and our fervent wishes for an ever-brightening future!”

On December 6th, 1910, Mrs. McGilvary and I celebrated our Golden

Wedding. As this occurred during the Annual Meeting of the Mission, most

of our missionary friends, as well as our friends of the foreign colony,

were present. It was a matter of great regret, however, that Dr. Wilson,

who was present at the wedding fifty years before, was too feeble to

come to Chiengmai on this occasion. The many beautiful gifts received

were another token of the loving regard of our friends and dear ones in

this and in the homeland. Among the many letters and telegrams received

was a cablegram from our children in America. “It was like a hand-clasp

and a whisper of love flashed around the world.” Dr. Arthur J. Brown,

speaking for himself and the members of the Board of Foreign Missions,

wrote: “We greatly rejoice in your long and conspicuously devoted and

influential service for the Lāo people. We share the veneration and love

with which we know you are regarded by the people among whom your lives

have been spent, and by the missionaries with whom you have been so

closely associated. It would be a joy if we could join the relatives and

friends who will be with you on that happy day in December. We invoke

God’s richest blessings on you both. Mrs. Brown and all my colleagues in

the office unite with the members of the Board in loving

congratulations.”

One of the most valued of these messages came from H. R. H. Prince

Damrong, Minister of the Interior: “I just learn from the local papers

of the celebration of your Golden Wedding. I wish you and Mrs. McGilvary

to accept my sincere congratulations and best wishes that you both may

be spared to continue your great work for many more years. Damrong.”

Our good friend, H. E. Prayā Surasīh Visithsakdī, High Commissioner for

the Northwestern Provinces, brought his congratulations in person,

presenting Mrs. McGilvary with a very rare old Siamese bowl of inlaid

work of silver and gold.

[Illustration:

DR. AND MRS. McGILVARY FIFTY YEARS AFTER THEIR MARRIAGE]

From the native church in Chieng Rāi a message in Lāo was received, of

which the following is a translation: “The Chieng Rāi Christians invoke

Divine blessings on the Father-Teacher and Mother-Teacher McGilvary, who

are by us more beloved than gold.”

We were deeply touched by a most unexpected demonstration of the

Chiengmai Christians, who assembled at our home, and with many

expressions of loving esteem and gratitude presented us with a silver

tray, designed by themselves, on which were represented in relief the

progress of the city in these fifty years: on one end the old bridge, on

the other the new bridge just completed; on the two sides, the

rest-house we occupied upon our arrival in Chiengmai, and our present

home. The inscription, in Lāo, reads: “1867-1910. The Christian people

of Chiengmai to Father-Teacher and Mother-Teacher McGilvary, in memory

of your having brought the Good News of Christ, forty-three years

ago.”—It makes one feel very humble to quote such expressions from our

colleagues and friends. But it would not be in human nature to fail to

appreciate them.

* * * * *

I would not close this life-story without expressing, on behalf of my

wife and myself, our heartfelt gratitude to our friends, native and

foreign, for the great kindness shown us in our intercourse with them

during these long years; and, above all, our devout gratitude to the

Giver of all good, for sparing so long our lives, and crowning them with

such rich blessings. Of these the greatest has been in permitting us to

lay the foundations, and to witness the steady growth of the Church of

Christ in Northern Siam.

[Illustration:

SKETCH MAP OF SIAM AND THE ADJACENT REGIONS

TO ILLUSTRATE THE MISSIONARY TOURS OF REV. DANIEL McGILVARY, D.D.]

------------------------------------------------------------------------

INDEX

Arthington, Robert, 373-376, 386.

Bradley, Rev. Dan Beach, M.D., 45, 52, 54-57, 67-70, 131-132, 164, 199.

Buddhist shrines, 172-173, 188, 252-253.

Ceremonies and Festivals:

Dam Hūa, 84-86;

cremation, 145-147;

dedication of a shrine, 188-189;

rice-harvest, 274;

fairs, 327, 356, 366;

“kin waw,” 323, 343;

sacred days, 318-319;

wedding feast, 395;

New Year, 396-397.

Chulalongkorn, King of Siam, 211-213, 382, 426.

Commission, Royal, 112, 121-131.

Commissioners, High:

Prayā Tēp Worachun, 193-194, 205, 206, 208, 210, 213-215, 222, 300;

Commissioner not named, 300-304;

Chow Prayā Surasīh, 419.

Cushing, Rev. J. N., DD, 138-139, 244, 247, 250, 373.

Demonism and witchcraft, 75-76, 91, 93-94, 173, 194, 203-208, 214,

266-270, 278, 321, 324, 331, 340.

Diseases:

cholera, 51;

fever, 88, 190, 195, 205, 242;

goitre, 88;

smallpox (vaccination), 57, 89-91, 243, 250;

scurvy, 196;

mortality of re-peopled districts, 202, 282.

Education:

Girls’ School, 177-178, 221-223, 274, 284, 287, 292, 418-419;

Boys’ School, 284, 291, 300, 419, 424-426;

Phraner Memorial, 377, 418;

parochial, 418;

government, 419-420;

educational policy as regards language, 222-225, 420-422.

Elephants:

saddle, 62, 151-152, 157, 246, 249-250, 311-312, 317-318, 330-331,

355, 359-360, 382-383;

wild, 156, 253, 311;

baby-elephants, 246-247, 309.

Evangelists and ministers, native, 257-263, 377-380, 414-416.

Famine, 335, 346, 349-352.

French Indo-China, 332, 354, 358, 384, and chapters xxxiii, xxxiv.

Hallett, Holt S. (railroad survey), 244-254.

House, Rev. S. R., M.D., 37-38, 45, 53, 67, 92-93, 110-112.

Intanon, Prince of Chiengmai, 81, 90, 108-109, 132, 137, 142, 145, 187,

193-194, 209, 245, 262, 293, 300.

Kamu tribe, 368, 393-394, 400, 403, 405, 407, 411.

Karens, 89, 143-144.

Kāwilōrot, Prince of Chiengmai (1855-1870), 57, 67, 69-70, 85-86, 90,

95, 102-106, 121-129, 133-138, 146-147.

Lāo:

the name, 13-14, 57-58;

spelling of Lāo words, 12-13;

people, 58, 156;

states, 130, 191-192, 218-219, 262;

language, 357, 358, 420-422, see also Education;

women, 144-145.

Lāo Mission:

planted, 77;

Rev. J. Wilson arrives, 92;

first church organized, 93;

a gift of land, 95;

first native members received, 96-101;

persecution, 106-117;

mission supposedly abandoned, 126;

intervention, 130-132;

new régime, 137-144;

permanent buildings, 140-142;

first physician, 149;

Girls’ School, 177;

teachers arrive, 221-222;

reinforcement, 242;

Presbytery organized, 257;

printing-press, 320;

Christian Endeavor, 381;

summaries, 217-218, 225, 287-288, 299, 304, 401;

general review, 413-423.

Later Missionaries:

Briggs, Rev. W. A., M.D., 10, 319, 336-337, 351-352, 401;

Campbell, Rev. Howard, 376, 411, 414;

Mrs. Campbell, 418;

Campbell, Miss Mary, 177, 221-222, 234, 236-237, 240;

Cary, A. M., M.D., 283-284, 296, 298;

Cheek, M. A., M.D., 166, 169, 178, 190, 195, 212, 233, 236-237,

283, 292;

Mrs. Cheek, 169, 242, 293;

Cole, Miss Edna E., 177, 221-222, 233, 240, 284, 387;

Collins, Rev. D. G., 283, 284, 296, 301;

Curtis, Rev. L. W., 376;

Mrs. Curtis, 9;

Denman, C. H., M.D., 376, 381, 382-385;

Dodd, Rev. W. C., D.D., 283, 284-286, 289, 291, 296, 301, 358,

377-378, 382, 384, 401;

Mrs. Dodd (Miss B. Eakin), 292, 293, 303;

Fleeson, Miss, 292, 293, 299;

Freeman, Rev. J. H., 9, 296;

Griffin, Miss I. A., 240, 243, 284, 292, 299;

Hearst, Rev. J. H., 239, 243;

Irwin, Rev. Robert, 319, 353, 362, 367, 401;

Martin, Rev. Chalmers, 239, 250, 252, 268, 270, 271-273, 276, 283;

McGilvary, Cornelia H. (Mrs. William Harris), 199, 306, 308-316,

427;

McGilvary, Rev. Evander B., 337, 371;

McGilvary, Margaret A. (Mrs. Roderick Gillies), 197, 337;

McKean, J. W., M.D., 306, 316, 320, 338, 341, 422-423, 427;

Peoples, Rev. S. C., M.D., 239, 250, 257, 263-265, 289-291, 300,

319, 387;

Mrs. Peoples, 240;

Phraner, Rev. Stanley K., 319, 320, 326-329, 376-377, 418;

Mrs. Phraner (Lizzie Westervelt), 238, 274, 284;

Taylor, Rev. Hugh, 299, 308-309;

Vrooman, C. W., M.D., 149-159, 166.

Native Converts:

Āi Tū (Prayā Pakdī), 277, 280, 287;

Cha Pū Kaw and Cha Waw, _see under_ Mūsô;

Chao Borirak, 158, 163, 197;

Lung In, 168, 170, 202;

Nān Chai, 100-101, 114-117;

Nān Chaiwana, 266-270;

Nān Inta, 96-99, 149, 161, 163, 207, 208, 210, 233, 243, 257, 258;

Nān Tā, 225-228, 234, 243, 248, 258, 272, 276, 277, 283, 299, 301;

Nān Sī Wichai, 199, 243;

Nān Suwan, 197-198, 233, 248, 257, 280, 287, 327, 330, 333, 341,

359;

Noi Intachak, 230, 257, 260;

Noi Siri, 301-304, 333;

Noi Sunya, 99-100, 114-117;

Noi Tāliya, 278-279, 290, 334;

Pā Sêng Bun, 205-206;

Prayā Sīhanāt, 199-201, 232-233;

Sên Utamā, 230, 232;

Sên Yā Wichai, 79, 100, 105, 203, 281, 291.

Mahā Mongkut, King of Siam, 37, 47-48, 70.

Mahā Vajiravudh, King of Siam, 425-426.

Mattoon, Rev. S., D.D., 39, 45, 67, 165-166.

McDonald, Rev. N. A., D.D., 53, 68, 103-104, 121ff.

McFarland, Rev. S. G., D.D., 53, 70-71.

A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography · 第 28 / 29 段