Still, everything depended upon the French authorities. They could

forbid our teaching, as, in fact, they afterwards did. But up to this

point I could not believe that they would. A prompt and candid interview

seemed all that would be necessary to settle that matter, and make the

Kamus feel safe. If such an opening were found, I had determined to

remain with them throughout the season. But in that case my family and

the mission must be informed. More medicine and books and some comforts

would be required to carry me through. It was, therefore, decided to

move on a day’s journey to Mûang Lā, a convenient point, leave there two

elders to instruct the people, and send back three carriers to Chiengmai

for the needed supplies and another elder; while I went on overland to

Mûang Kwā, and there took boat down the Ū River.

The mountain scenery along this river is very beautiful, especially so

near its junction with the Mê Kōng. We reached Lūang Prabāng on Monday,

May 9th, and called at once on M. Grant, who was so kind to us the year

before. He gave me a greeting as warm as ever. The king was having an

interview with M. Luce that day, so I could not see him till Tuesday. I

dined that night with M. Grant, he himself coming at dusk to walk over

with me. We had a delightful evening. There had been a regular exodus of

Kamus that year to Chiengmai and other southern provinces. M. Grant

asked if I had heard any reason assigned for it. I told him that I had

heard of three—the dearness of rice, owing to the failure of the last

crop; the exhaustion of the mountain lands, and the lack of remunerative

employment by which they could earn the money required to pay their

taxes.

On Tuesday afternoon the Commandant Supérieur sent his secretary to

invite me to an interview. He, too, gave me a cordial greeting. He had

received my passport together with a letter of introduction from the

Consul Général in Bangkok. I had also a kind personal letter from our

United States Minister, Mr. John Barrett. He had used his personal

influence, and assured me that it would all be right. My interview was

very pleasant. M. Luce enquired about our mission work, the number of

our converts, and other similar matters. He then referred to the large

emigration of Kamus; asked if I had heard of any reason for it, and how

many of our three thousand converts were Kamus. He was much surprised to

learn that the converts were almost entirely Lāo, with not a half dozen

Kamus among them. Putting his anxiety about the emigration and our work

among these people together, it seemed to me later that he must have

thought the movement a religious one.

When, at last, I stated my special errand to the city, namely, that a

number of villages in his province were interested in our religion, that

I wished to teach them further, and that, since they were French

subjects, I thought it proper to inform him and secure his sanction, he

thanked me for doing so, but his manner at once changed. He said he

should have to consult the king about that; the mountain people were

hard to teach; the country was unhealthy; the Catholic missionaries in

the south were leaving, or had left; the king would fear that the Kamus

would become disloyal to him if they became Christians. To this I

replied that the native officials had uniformly granted us permission to

teach among their subjects; that they realized that it was a benefit to

their country, and even gave us their assistance; and that it was the

fixed policy of our mission to teach Christians loyalty to their rulers.

M. Luce said he would consult with the king, and would let me know the

decision. I expressed my wish to pay my respects to the king, which he

said was a very proper thing, and, on my leaving, he gave me a cordial

invitation to dine with him that night.

Next day, through M. Grant, I secured a very pleasant interview with the

king. My long residence in the country and acquaintance with both

Siamese and Lāo officials, gave us much common ground for conversation.

He was pleased that I had known their Majesties, the present King of

Siam and his father, his former liege-lords. Quite in line with native

ideas, he thought I must be a man of great merit to be so old and yet so

strong. I explained at his request the teaching of our religion,

pointing out some of its distinctive differences from Buddhism, in all

of which things he was interested. He said that it was all very good,

but he was born and reared in the Buddhist worship, and was too old to

change. Gradually introducing my errand, I told him of my interest in

the Kamus, and of their desire to become Christians; that I had come

down to get permission to work among them. We taught them a better

morality, of which loyalty to rulers was a fundamental article, enjoined

by Jesus on His disciples. He raised the objection that the Kamus were

ignorant, and we would find them harder to teach than the Lāo. To this I

replied that these villagers had become believers, and I was going to

spend several months in teaching them. He asked if I did not think I was

running great risk in living so long in the forest, and so far away from

home. “Well,” said I, “I am used to life in the forest and jungle, and

you can see for yourself how I have fared.” At which he smiled, and made

no further objection. I left with the firm conviction that if M. Luce

were not unwilling, there would be no difficulty with him.

While at dinner that night, I informed M. Luce of my pleasant audience

with the king; how I told him my plans, and he had virtually given his

consent. “Is that so?” said he. “I must see the king myself about that.”

And as I took my leave, he said again, “I will see the king to-morrow,

and will let you know the result.”

The next afternoon, Thursday, M. Luce had a long interview at the

Prince’s residence. On Friday afternoon I called on M. Grant on my way

to the Commandant’s office. He told me that M. Luce wished to see me,

but had instructed him to notify me that the king did not understand

that I was to spend several months among the Kamus—though he certainly

did, or why should he have raised the question of my health? I reminded

M. Grant that my passport was not to the king, but to the French

authorities. All the world recognized the country as French territory.

It would have been considered a discourtesy to the French if the

representative of the United States had sent a letter to the Lāo king as

such. He admitted that in a limited sense this was true; but they did

not treat the king as a conquered vassal. Cochin China had fought the

French, and had been conquered and annexed. But Lūang Prabāng had put

itself under their protection without firing a gun. M. Grant delivered

his message with as much consideration toward my disappointment as was

consistent with loyalty to his superior. But my disappointment I could

not conceal.

M. Luce, I was informed, was very busy that day, but would be glad to

see me on Saturday afternoon. The decision, however, was irreversible.

Further pressure would be useless, and might be unwise. In that case, I

said, of course I must submit. I had shown proper respect for the ruling

authority, and my own desire to avoid future misunderstanding, by making

the long and costly journey to Lūang Prabāng. My errand was now ended. I

would take my leave at once, and return next morning.

This being reported to M. Luce, he sent word that he must see me before

I left. I might come immediately. Personally, again, he was very kind,

but made a studied effort to put the responsibility upon the king, who,

as he said, had not understood that I wished to make a long stay among

the Kamus, which he thought was unsafe for me. Of course, I had no

complaint to make of the king, who had been most gracious. I submitted

to their decision, and would return home. But my arrangements required

my return to the Kamu villages, where I had left my men and my goods,

and would be detained there till my messengers should return from

Chiengmai—which, he said, was all right. Since the responsibility had

been put on the king, and the adverse decision had been based solely on

the danger to my personal health and safety, I thought it unwise to

raise the question of native assistants, and so felt free to leave these

on the ground to teach the new believers, as, indeed, I felt under

obligation to do.

Thanking M. Luce for all his personal kindness, I begged to take my

leave of him then, so that I might start on my return the next morning.

But he evidently was not satisfied with his own part in the matter, and

wished to make some personal amends to soothe my disappointment. He

hoped I would not leave in the morning, but would remain till Monday,

and give him the pleasure of a dinner with me and M. Grant on Sunday

night. I hoped he would still excuse me, since, if I remained, that

would be our time for public worship. “Then,” said he, “we shall be

pleased to have you on Saturday night; and if you are not ready now to

give an affirmative reply, I hope you will so arrange it as to notify my

secretary in the morning.” Notwithstanding his evident disingenuousness

in trying to shift the responsibility for his own acts to another, there

was no reason for making it a personal matter; and it would be impolitic

to leave apparently angry. So I decided to remain till Monday, and

accepted the invitation for Saturday night.

I feared there would be great constraint on both sides at the dinner;

but in this I was agreeably disappointed. That very day a long telegram

had arrived, reporting the declaration of war with Spain, and the

particulars of the great naval victory of Manila Bay. On my arrival at

his house, M. Luce handed me a full translation of these into English,

which he had had made for me. They were much surprised at the victory,

for they thought the Spanish navy much larger and stronger than ours;

and they were high in their praise of the victors. We really had a

delightful time. After dinner our host and M. Grant both laid themselves

out to show me beautiful maps and pictures. M. Luce invited me to call

on Monday morning, and he would send a long telegram to my wife without

charge. This he did, and we all parted friends. The departure on the

16th, my seventieth birthday, was not as joyful as I had hoped.

On my return to Mûang Sai, I found that my carriers had been delayed by

sore feet and sickness. I could not leave till they came, for fear of

missing them and causing further complications. So my long trip home was

thrown into the middle of a very rainy season. I had to apologize as

best I could to the new converts for the change in my plan to remain

with them. But they were glad to have our elders stay and teach them. If

that shady tree on the little hill at Mûang Sai could speak, it would

tell of much anxious prayer on leaving the Christians and starting on

the long journey before me. My Ebenezer was left on that tree.

That journey was altogether the worst I ever had. I did not reach home

till August 6th, after the longest tour I had ever taken. M. Luce’s

telegram had prepared my family and friends for my changed plans.

A few lines must close the history of the work among the Kamus. In

December the three evangelists returned with a most encouraging report.

The converts had remained firm, and others were waiting to join them.

The next season a native minister was sent to them. In 1903 the mission

ventured to send two of our younger men, Dr. Campbell and Mr. Mackay. to

Mûang Sai, to visit the Christians, and respond to a pressing call to

extend the work. Imagine their surprise on reaching Mûang Sai to find

that the local commissioner had received orders to forbid our

missionaries to visit the Christian community, or to hold any religious

service with them, on penalty of being conducted out of the country, by

force if necessary. The command was so imperative that the Commissioner

dared not disobey. He begged them for his sake to return peaceably. No

effort has been made since to reach the Christians at Mûang Sai, or to

extend the work.

It will be remembered that a few members of the Chieng Sên church—never

more than half a dozen families—lived on the east bank of the Mê Kōng,

in French territory. So objectionable was the very presence of a

missionary making a few days’ visit among his flock, that it was

regarded of sufficient importance to warrant an official protest from

the authorities at Lūang Prabāng, sent through the Governor General of

Hanoi, and the United States Minister at Bangkok. Complaint was made of

a visit made by the Rev. ——, who had exhibited Scripture pictures and

distributed books among the people—which was so contrary to their policy

that they forbade the Roman Catholic missionaries from working in their

territory. They begged that the thing be not repeated! For the credit of

the French authorities I should have been glad to suppress the latter

part of this story. But, on the other hand, I think it should be known,

in order that it may become a burden on the prayers of the Christian

world of all denominations, that God’s providence may open the whole

peninsula of Indo-China to the preaching of the Gospel.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

XXXV

CONCLUSION

My advancing age suggests the wisdom of not attempting to continue this

personal narrative beyond the account just given of my last long

missionary tour. I may venture to add, however, by way of conclusion, a

few suggestions and criticisms concerning the work of our mission as a

whole, and briefly notice a few of the more important personalities and

events of these later years.

Special prominence has been given throughout to the evangelistic work,

as being the foundation of all other missionary work. A Christian Church

and a Christian constituency must be the first aim in all missions. In

this we have not been unsuccessful. Our ideals, it is true, have not

been realized. We have not witnessed among the Siamese or the Lāo any

racial movement towards Christianity; nor have there been any great

revivals resulting in large accessions to the church. Both of these we

hope for in the not far distant future. Yet the uniform, healthful

growth of the church, as distinguished from spasmodic or sporadic

increase, has been most gratifying. Seldom does a week pass without

accessions to some of our churches.

An adult membership of four thousand is a good foundation. And it must

never be forgotten that the roll of church-membership is a very

inadequate index of the real influence and power of a mission. In

addition to a much larger constituency of adherents, there is our large

roll of non-communing members, the hope of the future church. And signs

of most hopeful promise have appeared within the present year. The

growth of the Chieng Rāi church during that time has been surpassed only

by the results of Dr. Campbell’s recent tours, amounting to eighty

accessions within a few weeks. The supporters of our missions have every

cause for gratitude, and a call for earnest, effectual prayer in their

behalf.

A review of our evangelistic work suggests one or two criticisms. On one

line at least, with a smaller amount of hard work done by the missionary

himself, we might have accomplished more, might now be better prepared

for advanced work, and the native church might be better able to stand

alone, if we had addressed our efforts more steadily to the development

and use of native assistance. While we have not had the material of well

educated young men out of which to form a theological seminary and to

furnish a fully equipped native ministry, we have not used, to the

extent to which we should have used it, the material which was

available. For a mission as old as ours, we must confess that in this

most important matter we are very backward.

The delay in starting our school for boys was not our fault; it was

inevitable. The Lāo rulers of the earlier years were absolutely

indifferent to all education, and were positively jealous of any that

was given by the mission. But as the church began to increase, we had

accessions of men trained in the Buddhist priesthood. Some of these were

among the best educated men in the country. They understood—as young men

even from mission schools could not be expected to understand—the

religion, the modes of thought, the needs of their own people, and how

to reach them. Their education, however deficient, brought them many

compensations. They form the class from which nearly all of our

evangelists have been drawn. When such men have been drilled in the

Scriptures, their Buddhistic knowledge makes them the very best men for

successful work among their countrymen. They visit and sleep in the

homes of their people, and are one with them. The missionary in his work

must rely largely on their judgment and advice.

It must not be understood that we have not taught these men or used

them. A great deal of labour has been spent in training them; very much

in the same way in which in American churches, a generation ago, busy

pastors trained up young men to be some of our best ministers. The

criticism I make—and in it I believe all my colleagues will concur—is

that we have not made as much of them as we should have done. No doubt

there have been difficulties in the way. Their families must somehow be

provided for during the process. The native churches were not strong

enough to undertake their support. We were warned that to aid them with

foreign funds would make the churches mercenary. What the missionary

himself sometimes did to eke out their subsistence was irregular and

difficult, and often unsatisfactory. But the labourer is worthy of his

hire. Hungry mouths must be fed. The Board and the churches at home do

not begrudge a thousand dollars or more to support a missionary in the

field. Should they begrudge the same amount spent upon half a dozen men

who will treble or quadruple the missionary’s work and his influence? In

any business it is poor policy to employ a high-salaried foreman, and

then not furnish him cheaper men to do that which unskilled labour can

accomplish better than he.

In this matter, as in some others, we might have learned valuable

lessons from our nearest missionary neighbours in Burma, even though the

conditions of our work have been in many respects very different from

theirs. Making all allowance for our conditions, I frankly confess that

our greatest mistake has probably been in doing too much of the work

ourselves, instead of training others to do it, and working through

them. This conviction, however, must not in the least lead us to relax

our efforts in the line of general education. For the ultimate

establishment of the church, and to meet the demands of the age, we must

have workmen thoroughly equipped. Till that time comes, we must, as we

should more fully have done hitherto, rely on whatever good working

material we find ready to hand.

* * * * *

With regard to plans and methods of work, another thought suggests

itself. In a business organized as ours is, where the majority in the

Annual Meeting has absolute power, it is difficult to avoid the

appearance—and sometimes the reality—of a vacillating policy. New

stations are established, and missionaries are located by the ballot of

the mission there assembled. From year to year the personnel of the

mission is constantly changing by reason of furloughs, breakdown of

health, and necessary removals. We make our disposition of forces at one

meeting, and at the next an entirely new disposition has become

necessary. A family has been left alone without a physician or

associate. Missionary enthusiasm, or an earnest minority interested in a

particular field or a particular cause, may initiate a policy which a

subsequent majority may be unable to sanction, or which it may be found

difficult or impossible to carry out.

Again, as between the policy of maintaining one strong central station,

and that of maintaining several smaller ones in different parts of the

country, it is often difficult to decide. With the aim originally of

establishing the Gospel in all the states under Siamese rule, we seem to

have been led to adopt the latter policy. Through God’s blessing on

evangelistic tours, in Lampūn and in the frontier provinces of the

north, there grew up churches which called for missionary oversight. The

famine in Prê summoned us thither; and to secure the work then done, a

missionary in residence was needed. Though no church had been formed in

Nān, yet our tours had opened the way to one, and the importance of the

province and its distance from our centre demanded a station. In every

case these stations were opened with the cordial approval of the mission

and of the Board at home. Yet it has been difficult to keep them all

manned, as has been specially true in the case of Prê—and there to the

great detriment of the work. It is easy to say now that a strong central

policy might have been better. And that criticism would probably hit me

harder than anyone else, for I have sanctioned the establishment of

every one of those stations. It is possible that a more centralized

organization might have accomplished more toward the education of native

workers—the point last under discussion.

With reference to the establishment of stations in the north beyond the

frontier of Siam, there was not until recently absolute unanimity in the

mission. But that was not from any diversity of opinion as regards the

question in itself, but because a sister denomination had established

itself there. There has never been reasonable ground for doubt that the

language and race of the ruling class, and of the population of the

plains would naturally assign them to the Lāo mission. And no other

mission is so well equipped for working that field. A Lāo Inland

Mission, somewhat on the plan of the China Inland Mission, would be an

ideal scheme for reaching the whole of the Tai-speaking peoples of the

north and northeast under English and French and Chinese rule. The

obligation to carry the Gospel to those peoples should rest heavily on

the conscience of the Christian Church, and on our Church in particular.

Who will volunteer to be the leaders?

It has already been noticed that in our educational work the Girls’

School had the precedence in time, and possibly in importance. Boys did

at least learn to read and write in the monasteries. At the time of our

arrival in Chiengmai, only two women in the province could read. The

Chiengmai Girls’ School has had a wide educational influence throughout

the north, and to-day our Girls’ Schools have practically no

competitors.

The Phraner Memorial School for small children, in connection with the

First Church, Chiengmai, under Mrs. Campbell’s direction, is preparing

material both for High Schools and for the College. We have good schools

for girls in Lakawn, Nān, and Chieng Rāi; and parochial mixed schools in

most of our country churches and out-stations. The young women who have

been engaged in this department, and many self-sacrificing married

women, have great reason to rejoice over the work accomplished. No

greater work can be done than that of educating the wives and mothers of

the church and the land. Educated Christian men are greatly handicapped

when consorted with illiterate and superstitious wives. Without a

Christian wife and mother there can be no Christian family, the

foundation both of the church and of the Christian State.

On a recent visit to Chiengmai, Princess Dārā Ratsami—one of the wives

of His late Majesty of Siam, and daughter of Prince Intanon of Chiengmai

and his wife, the Princess Tipakēsawn, often mentioned in the preceding

narrative—was much interested in the Girls’ School, and was pleased to

name it the Phra Rajchayar School, after herself—using therefor her

title, and not her personal name.

The mission had been founded twenty years before it had, and almost

before it could have had, a School for Boys. It is the intention of the

mission to make of this school—the Prince Royal College—the future

Christian College. Similar schools have been established in the other

stations.

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