At dinners of great pretension, from eight to twelve different kinds of
wines are sometimes served. This is rather ostentatious than elegant. In
my judgment, neither elegance nor good taste is displayed in such
excess. Four different kinds of wine are quite enough for the grandest
occasions imaginable, if they are only of the choicest selection.
Indeed, for most occasions, a single wine--a choice claret or
Champagne--is quite sufficient. In fact, let no one hesitate about
giving dinners without any wine at all. Proper respect for conscientious
scruples about serving wine would forbid a criticism as to the propriety
of serving any dinner without it. Such dinners are in quite as good
taste, and will be just as well appreciated by sensible people; and it
makes very little difference whether people _who are not sensible_ are
pleased or not.
If three wines are served, let them be a choice sherry with the soup,
claret with the first course after the fish, and Champagne with the
roast. If a fourth is desired, there is no better selection than a
Château Yquem, to be served with an _entrée_. If Champagne alone is
used, serve it just after the fish. Many serve claret during the entire
dinner, it matters not how many other varieties may be served; others do
the same with Champagne--for the benefit of the ladies, they say. I
believe, however, Champagne is considered with more disfavor every day.
In England, punch is served with turtle or mock-turtle soup. A receipt
may be found for one of their best punches (see page 339). I consider
it, however, a decided mistake to serve so strong a beverage, especially
at the beginning of a dinner. A fine ale is often served with the
cheese-and-cracker course at family dinners, when wine is not served.
As a rule, I would say that the white wines, Sauterne, Rhine, etc., are
served with raw oysters, or just before the soup; sherry or Madeira,
with the soup or fish; Champagne, with the meat; claret, or any other of
the red wines, with the game. Many prefer claret just after the fish, as
it is a light wine, and can be drunk instead of water. If still another
wine is added for the dessert, it is some superior sherry, port,
Burgundy, or any fine wine. Very small glasses of _liqueurs_, such as
maraschino and curaçoa, are sometimes served at the end of a dinner
after coffee.
In France, coffee (_café noir_) is served after the fruit at dinner, a
plan which should be generally followed at dinner parties at least. It
is always well to serve cream and sugar with coffee, as many prefer it.