The meat should be fresh, lean (all fat possible being removed), and
juicy to make the best soup. It is put into cold, clear water, which
should be heated only moderately for the first half-hour. The object is
to extract the juices of the meat, and if it be boiled too soon, the
surface will become coagulated, thereby imprisoning the juice within.
After the first half-hour the pot should be placed at the back of the
stove, allowing the soup to simmer for four or five hours.
Nothing is more disagreeable at table than greasy soup. As all particles
of fat are taken off hot liquor with some difficulty, soup should be
made the day before it is to be used, when the fat will rise to the top
and harden. It can then be easily removed.
When vegetables are used, they should be added only in time to become
thoroughly done: afterward they absorb a portion of the richness of the
soup.
When onions are used, they impart better flavor by being fried or
_sautéd_ in a little hot butter or other grease, before they are added
to the soup. In fact, many professional cooks fry other vegetables also,
such as carrots and turnips. Sometimes they even fry slightly the
chickens, beef, etc., and then cut them into smaller pieces for boiling.
Potatoes and cabbage should be boiled in separate water before they are
added to a soup.
Amateur cooks seem to have a great aversion to making stock. They think
it must be something troublesome, and too scientific to undertake;
whereas, in truth, it saves the trouble of going through the process of
soup-boiling every day, and it is as easy to make as any simple soup.
One has only to increase the quantity of meat and bones to any desired
proportion, adding pepper and salt, and also vegetables, if preferred.
The stock should be kept in a stone jar. It will form a jelly, and in
cool weather will last at least a week.
Just before dinner each day, in order to prepare soup, it is only
necessary to cut off some of the jelly and heat it. It is very good with
nothing additional; but one can have a change of soup each day by adding
different flavorings, such as onion, macaroni, vermicelli, tomato,
tapioca, spring vegetables (which will make a _julienne_), poached eggs,
fried bread, asparagus, celery, green pease, etc. I will be explicit
about these additions in the receipts. Stock is also valuable for
gravies, sauces, and stews, and for boiling many things, such as
pigeons, chickens, etc.