CHAPTER II

THE SUDAN

The tasks allotted to the Battalion between October, 1914, and April,

1915, while garrisoning the Sudan were of great variety. With the

gunners at Khartum Fort, they constituted part of the British force then

in the country, of which Colonel Gresham was commander. The detachment

left at Port Sudan organised its defences, ran an armoured train, and

patrolled the Red Sea in the _Enterprise_. One group, under Captain R.V.

Rylands (afterwards killed on Gallipoli), guarded the railway works at

Atbara. Another under Captain B. Norbury occupied the hill station of

Sinkat. Important censorship work at Wadi Halfa was entrusted to Captain

J.H. Thorpe, and, when he was invalided, to Lieutenant L. Dudley, who

fell later in action on Gallipoli. At Khartum a half company, under

Captain C. Norbury, was on arrival transformed immediately into the

British Camel Corps.

For some little time after our coming the normal social and sporting

life of the small British colony at Khartum was hardly ruffled by the

storm raging in Europe, and we gratefully enjoyed its warm-hearted

hospitality. At the beginning of November war broke out between Great

Britain and Turkey, and the loyalty of the Sudanese was put to the test.

The Germans built upon the probability of a Jihad or Holy War, and never

dreamed that the handful of young Englishmen who administered the

country under the Sirdar's guidance could have won its loyalty against

all comers. When the Sirdar announced in English and Arabic the news of

the Porte's entry into the War one shining Sunday morning in early

November, to a large gathering of Egyptian and Sudanese officers and

dignitaries at the Palace, their zealous unanimity was impressive.

Hundreds of native notables contributed generously to British Red Cross

funds. Sheikhs of the Red Sea Province, who had once been dervish

partisans, showed me with glowing pride when at Port Sudan silver

medallions with King George's likeness, given by him to them on his

visit to Sinkat.

Few pages of history are more wonderful than that which records the

conversion of the chaotic and down-trodden Sudan of 1898 into the

peaceful and prosperous Sudan of to-day. Scepticism as to the uses of

Empire, which too often beset the Manchester man at home before the War,

was dissipated by seeing what Anglo-Egyptian sovereignty and British

character and industry have achieved in a land so long tormented by

slave-traders and despots. The happy black boys of Gordon College go to

school with books under their arms, and play football, coached by Old

Blues and cheered by enthusiastic comrades. On the 30th October (Kurban

Bairam day) the Manchesters saw the Sirdar bestow gaily coloured robes

of honour on deserving chiefs. Everywhere were signs of economic

progress. The cotton-growing plantations on the Gezira Plain, the

ginning factory at Wad Medani, the numerous irrigation and public health

works, the research laboratories of Gordon College, the industries of

Khartum North and of Atbara, all bore the distinctive hall-mark of

British Imperialism.

The magic of the British name in the Sudan seemed to us to rest not only

on the art of government but on the great memories of Gordon and

Kitchener and the abiding influence of General Wingate's personality.

The Gordon statue at Khartum is almost a shrine. The Sudan itself is

Lord Kitchener's monument. During our life there we were daily witnesses

of General Wingate's tact, power and example. In all Mohammedan areas of

the Sudan, Great Britain is wisely defender of the faith, and Islam is

wisely with Britain. On the 19th November we were entertained at the

Egyptian Army Officers' Club on the occasion of the Mohammedan New Year.

On the 27th January 1915 the Prophet's birthday was celebrated with

rapturous pageantry, and the Sirdar and Lady Wingate paid most

impressive visits to the pavilions set up by the principal sheikhs and

notables in front of the mosques at Khartum and Omdurman, while huge

crowds of religious enthusiasts beat tom-toms and sang outside. We saw

the Sirdar reviewing his Egyptian and Sudanese troops at Khartum,

formally inspecting the schools, hospitals, barracks and prisons around

Port Sudan, decorating veterans with medals, and addressing in every

native dialect the political and religious leaders of the people. We

found that no men appreciated the care and skill of the Red Sea Province

hospital more warmly than Arabs from the then Turkish territory of

Jiddah.

[Illustration: _Elliot & Fry Ltd._

General Sir F.R. WINGATE, G.C.B., G.C.V.O., K.C.M.G., G.B.E., D.S.O.

Honorary Colonel of the Battalion.]

The whole history of the evolution of the Sudan is epitomised in the

bare, sun-scorched Christian graveyard of Wadi Halfa. The sandy,

high-walled enclosure is the common resting-place of four successive

generations of British Empire builders: first, of soldiers who fell in

the Gordon Relief Expedition; secondly, of men who died while building

the railway which proved the key to Lord Kitchener's success; thirdly,

of soldiers who perished in the war of 1898; lastly, of civil servants

who have died while administering the country since its reconquest.

Staveacre and I touched a much earlier phase of history when we

discovered and bought derelict French helmets and cuirasses of 1798 that

must once have been the booty of some Mameluke. Who would wish for more

romantic trophies?

The Turkish war added gravity to the Battalion's responsibilities in the

Sudan. The idea at the time was to treat it passively, so long as the

Turks did not molest British Moslems on pilgrimage to Mecca. The Arabs

were known to have little sympathy with the Ottoman Turk and his

pretensions to religious authority; so Jiddah was not to be starved by

non-intercourse. The Turks themselves made such a policy impossible by

their raid against the Suez Canal in February, 1915, and the inception

of the Dardanelles Expedition marked the final victory of the school of

thought which put its faith in an Eastern offensive. Some sort of

offensive, whether against Gallipoli or Alexandretta or Haifa, had

become perhaps a moral necessity.

We learnt in the Sudan how Turco-German machinations were necessitating

a more active policy towards the Porte. I acted as prosecutor at the

public trial of a Sudanese by general court martial in the court-house

of Port Sudan in the second week of December, 1914. He had risen from

sergeant's rank in a Sudanese regiment to be Captain of the Egyptian

Coastguard in 1907. Cashiered in 1912, he served Enver Pasha in Tripoli,

became an officer of Abdul Hamid's bodyguard, and afterwards a Major of

the Baghdad Gendarmerie. Long before November, 1914, he had busily

plotted for a rising in Egypt and the diffusion of German propaganda all

over the Sudan. Under Enver Pasha's personal direction he disguised

himself in a pilgrim's robe, styled himself Suleiman Effendi, and

crossed the Red Sea from Jiddah with six pilgrims. One of these was an

Howrowri Arab from Kordofan. The rest were Falatas or Takruri--_i.e._

pilgrims from British West Africa to Mecca--a class whose whole

existence is spent on pilgrimage, brightened by spells of residence and

family life at centres like Omdurman, and this man planned to pass as a

pilgrim among pilgrims. The party was asked by the sheikh of the Takurna

village, near Port Sudan, where they came from. They replied:

"Omdurman." On the 16th November he, in beggar's clothes, sought an

interview with a Bimbashi of the Egyptian Army, at Port Sudan. He told

him and his adjutant that he had come on a secret mission from Enver to

rouse the Sudan against the British and to ascertain native feeling at

Port Sudan, Khartum, Sinja, Wad Medani, Kordofan and El Obeid.

"The Porte," he said, "knows that the English treat you badly and

intends to drive them out of Egypt." The officers whom he tempted were,

however, staunchly loyal. They handed him over to Colonel Wilson,

Governor of the Red Sea Province. His red and blue uniform, sword and

papers were discovered, but he defended himself stoutly against the

charges of spying and war treason, and his interests were carefully

watched by Judge Davidson, who acted as Judge Advocate. One Arabic

letter found among his papers was addressed to the Ministry of War at

Constantinople, and appears to have been a copy of a report sent off by

him just before his arrest. It is worth quoting as a footnote to

history:

"I arrived at Mecca, where I met the Valy and Commandant, Wahib Bey,

and gave him my information. He left Mecca for Jiddah at once for

his usual work, and provided me with a boat and six civilians, who

accompanied me from Jiddah to Suakin and Port Sudan on a secret

mission to induce the natives to favour the presence of the Turkish

government, to rise against the existing European government, and to

take necessary precautions for upholding the honour of the Turkish

government without anyone's knowledge.... I hope when I reach

Khartum, in a secret way to encourage a rising against the British

troops, if possible. As for my expenses, I took from the Valy

Commandant sixteen Turkish pounds and three pounds sterling for the

necessary expenses of the journey by steamer and land. I have every

wish for the prosperity of the Religion and for the Sultan's victory

over the unbelievers."

This man in his defence denied that any Sudanese like himself would

dream of plotting against the British, who had purified government,

employed Sudanese in administration, and given their children schools.

He was convicted and sentenced to death, but that penalty was commuted

by the Sirdar, in consideration of a tardy confession.

One of the Falatas turned King's evidence against his other companions

on the charge of war treason. Squatting on the floor of the courthouse,

their rosaries interlaced with their handcuffs, they assumed the air of

innocence, but were convicted and condemned to terms of imprisonment.

Two were called Isa (Jesus) and one was Adam. Arab life has more than a

touch of the Bible.

The whole episode brought into relief the wide ramifications of

Turco-German intrigue.

Another singular case of German subtlety was that of an alleged Swiss

explorer, who arrived on the 10th November at Khartum on his way from

Abyssinia to undergo the Pasteur treatment at Cairo. He claimed to have

had his leg bitten by a dog, and was in hot haste to reach Egypt. He

satisfied our doctors as to the genuineness of his injuries and anxiety,

wept when Captain Morley, most expert of surgeons, told him of the

surrender of Antwerp, and was given help and hospitality. He went

through the Pasteur treatment and disappeared from our ken. A few weeks

later an Italian newspaper applauded the patriotism of a German reserve

officer, whose zeal to serve his country had nerved him to brave the

vigilance of Khartum and the too devoted attentions of the hydrophobia

experts at Cairo.

At a date when all Britons of military age worth their salt were

training for war, the actual work of the Manchesters in the Sudan hardly

calls for description. In the personal supervision of the Sirdar they

enjoyed a special advantage not shared by the Territorial units left in

Egypt. What is of more lasting moment is the share they took in

furthering the cause of peace, order and good government in the Sudan by

their steady conduct and happy relations with the inhabitants. Our

officers interchanged visits with the officers of an Egyptian regiment

quartered at Khartum, enjoying tea, music and speeches. With an Egyptian

regiment at El Obeid we had a pleasant and symbolic exchange of colours.

In the ceremonial occasioned by the Sultan's accession, a guard of

honour under Major J.H. Staveacre represented the British Army in the

Palace garden, and acclaimed: "Ya-aish Hussein Pasha, Sultan Masr" (Long

live Hussein Pasha, Sultan of Egypt). The men were scrupulously careful

of native sensibilities. At Port Sudan, Private J.P. Lyons, our champion

boxer, who was killed on Gallipoli, was publicly thanked by the

Governor, Colonel Wilson, for having saved a black policeman from some

drunken sailors. The Battalion hoped it had really earned the honour

paid it when the Sirdar accepted its honorary colonelcy.

The knowledge gained during the months in the Sudan will be an asset to

such Manchester Territorials as survive, and may even exercise an

influence upon local public opinion. To many, the Sudan seemed entitled

to rank among the best administered countries in the world. Its civil

service governs vast areas and vast numbers practically without military

aid. Its selection from University graduates who best combine brains

with physique is in the spirit of Cecil Rhodes. Government of blacks by

whites is a commonplace; of blacks by blues, a stroke of genius.

Looking back after years of soldiering and disillusion, the first

months of the War no doubt seem brighter than they really were. It is

easy to forget the illnesses that sent the writer as an invalid to Luxor

and Cairo, and finally to England; to ignore the heat and dust and

isolation, the long glare of the African day. We think more readily of

Gordon's rose-tree blooming in the Palace garden; of the long camel

treks across the desert; of the wail of the yellow-ribboned Sudanese

bagpipes; of our visit with Colonel Smyth, V.C., to the stony, sun-baked

battle-field of Omdurman; of the lusty strains of _Tipperary_ in the

cool barrack rooms. It is right that this should be so. The men to whom

these memories would appeal were men who enjoyed life to the full. They

played the first lacrosse ever seen in the Sudan, engaged in keen boxing

competitions, rallied to football on the roughest of barrack squares,

listened cheerfully to weekly concerts and the first of our long series

of history and military lectures. They hunted for curios in the dusty

alleys of Omdurman, enjoyed recreation in the library and billiard-room,

and ran with great spirit the early numbers of the _Manchester Sentry_,

first published of all active service periodicals. To this paper the

Sirdar and Lady Wingate contributed welcome and inspiring letters, and

the Battalion owed its motto: "We never sleep."

In April, 1915, the Battalion left the Sudan for Cairo, where it again

came in contact with the other units of the East Lancashire Territorial

Division, thenceforward called the 42nd Division On the 3rd May it

embarked in company with another battalion of the Manchesters on the

_Ionian_, and at seven in the evening, on the 7th May, it landed at "V"

Beach, Cape Helles.

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