DEPART FROM FOUEIRA.--INTERVIEW WITH KING RIONGA.--THE PLATEAU OF
CENTRAL AFRICA.--EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.
Doctor Bronson decided that there was no occasion for a hasty departure
from Foueira, but at the same time he allowed no delay in getting
everything in readiness. Abdul was busy from morning till night,
arranging the packages, organizing the gangs of porters, preparing the
provisions, and doing a hundred other things that were necessary. He was
greatly assisted by Frank and Fred, who acted under the general
direction of Doctor Bronson.
King Rionga came to visit Foueira the day after the Doctor's arrival, so
that our friends had a chance to see the monarch with whom Baker Pacha
became united in the bonds of African brotherhood. He was accompanied by
a dozen or more of his high officials, and a miscellaneous following of
attendants. The king wore a robe of native cloth, made from the bark of
a tree, and beautifully embroidered, while his attendants were arrayed
in the same material, but without any adornment. Each of them carried a
spear, that of the king being a foot longer than the spears of his
officers, and its head was made of gold instead of common iron. The king
expressed his pleasure at meeting the "Ingleez," and invited them to
call at his residence on their way to the south.
[Illustration: VIEW ON THE ROAD.]
On the sixth day everything was ready, and just a week after their
arrival at Foueira Doctor Bronson and Fred, accompanied by Frank, whose
stay had been longer than theirs, mounted their horses and set out for
the place where they expected to see King Rionga. He had left his
island, and was at a village about five hours' march from Foueira, on
the road to M'rooli. The village was in a bend of the river a short
distance below the end of the island where the king lived at the time of
Baker's visit.
The caravan of porters had been sent off early in the morning, with
instructions to go into camp in the neighborhood of Rionga's village,
but not too near it, for fear of quarrels with the king's people. Abdul
selected the spot for the camp, with the assistance of one of Rionga's
officers, so that there was a good understanding between them. The king
ordered half a dozen huts constructed for the use of Doctor Bronson and
the youths within a hundred yards of the royal residence, and sent a
messenger out on the road to conduct the party to their temporary abode.
Our friends made their toilets, and sent word to the king that they
would call on him whenever it was his pleasure to give them a reception.
The messenger returned with the announcement that Rionga was ready to
receive them, and they at once proceeded to his "palace."
[Illustration: THE KING'S RESIDENCE.]
In the ordinary meaning of the word it was not much of a palace. It was
a building of a single story in height, with a veranda in front, where
the king enjoyed the air in the afternoon; and the roof was covered with
a mass of turf and thatch, to exclude the heat. Abdul said it was not
the regular residence of Rionga, and therefore was less extensive than
they might have expected. Perhaps it was because the interior was not
well furnished that his majesty did not invite them to enter, but
motioned them to be seated on the veranda. Frank took mental note of the
surroundings, and remarked that the king had a fondness for cows, as he
had a cattle-yard close by, and a couple of feeding and drinking troughs
for his favorite cows were in the space in front of the veranda.
It was not the regular hour for receptions, and it had been intimated to
the king that Doctor Bronson and his young friends were not in the
service of the Egyptian government, and did not wish the ceremony to
have an official character. Only two of the king's officers were
present; but, from certain whisperings and bustling inside the building,
it was evident that several persons were within hearing. Frank caught a
glimpse of a female face peering through the door, and Fred thought he
had a similar view a few moments later.
Coffee was brought in little cups, in the same manner as in Egypt, and
some ripe bananas and other fruits were served. The interview did not
last long, as it was late in the afternoon. When our friends rose to
depart the king asked them to come again on the following morning, when
he would receive them, in the presence of his officers and family.
When they returned to camp they found an ample supply of fruit, milk,
and other things, which had been sent by the king's orders, together
with several jars of "merissa," a fermented drink made from the juice of
the banana. The Doctor said it was like a very poor quality of beer
mixed with weak cider. None of the party cared for it, and as soon as
the messengers who brought it had gone away the jars were handed over to
the negro attendants, who emptied them very speedily. The fruits formed
a very acceptable addition to the stock of provisions, and there was a
great abundance of them, so that everybody about the camp had all he
chose to eat.
Abdul said that the fermented drink made from bananas was to be found
among most of the tribes in Central Africa, especially with those who
lived in villages and were not essentially pastoral in their habits.
During the expedition of Baker in the country of Kabba Rega that
treacherous king sent several jars of merissa one evening as a present
for the soldiers. They drank freely of it, and in a little while it was
reported that all the men had been poisoned.
Baker went immediately to the huts of his soldiers, and found that those
who had drank of the merissa were writhing with pain, and had all the
symptoms of having taken a violent poison. There were at least thirty of
them who were suffering; some were already insensible, and others
scarcely able to breathe. Fortunately, Baker had a large supply of
medicines on hand, and by prompt administration of them he saved the
lives of every one of his followers.
[Illustration: KABBA REGA'S ATTACK AND DEFEAT.]
The next day the object of the king in poisoning the soldiers was
apparent. His troops attacked the Egyptian camp, expecting that the
greater part of his enemies would be dead, or at least unable to fight.
It did not require a long time for them to find out their mistake, as
the soldiers rallied, and not only drove back the assailants, but burned
the town and the house where the king lived. They did not succeed in
capturing the monarch, as he soon discovered how the affair was going
and made good his escape.
The next morning our friends went to repeat their call on the king, who
received them in an open space in front of his house, as the dwelling
was altogether too small for the entire party of his attendants and
royal household. They found him standing in a group of about twenty of
his officers, all armed with spears, according to the custom of the
country, and in much the same dress as they wore at Foueira. The king's
wives and children were present, but somewhat in the background. They
showed great curiosity to have a look at the strangers, but did not
venture beyond the bounds that had been set for them. There was much
craning of necks, and many expressions of "Wah! wah!" which is said to
indicate astonishment or admiration, like the "Oh!" of civilized lands.
The boys wished to "astonish the natives" by bringing out the galvanic
battery and treating some of the attendants of the court to a shock; but
the Doctor said there was hardly sufficient time to do so; and besides,
the instrument would not be entirely new to them. Colonel Long gives an
account of the use of a magnetic battery at Rionga's court, to the great
astonishment of the people, who believed the little instrument endowed
with magical powers. He says that he knocked several of the natives down
with the violence of the shocks, and the performance was received with
shouts of wonder and superstitious awe.
[Illustration: THATCHED HUT IN RIONGA's VILLAGE.]
The Doctor had the forethought to bring along one of the musical-boxes,
which he set in operation, to the delight of everybody, and especially
of the women and boys who gathered around. The effect of the music was
irresistible, and before a dozen notes had been sounded half the
audience were capering around with wild delight. When the performance
was over the box was given to Rionga, and Abdul explained how it should
be wound and set in operation. The king was greatly pleased with the
present, and the dignity of the court was relaxed to allow his officers
to crowd around and look at it. Doctor Bronson said it was probable that
within a week the instrument would be ruined beyond repair, as Rionga
would be likely to endeavor to find out how it was made, and the result
could hardly fail to be as injurious as the attempt of a child to
ascertain the source of the sound in a squeaking doll.
The interview with the king lasted a couple of hours, and then Doctor
Bronson and his young companions made their farewells and started to
leave. Just as they were doing so Ali came to the Doctor's side and
whispered a few words, to the effect that some of the porters refused to
move on, as they wished to remain another day at Rionga's village.
It seemed that the king had sent a supply of merissa to the camp
sufficient for the entire force of porters. Instead of being grateful
for the donation they wanted more, and so had refused to start. They
knew that as long as they remained there the king would be likely to
provide the same quantity of merissa daily, out of respect for their
masters, and of course the latter would be compelled to make indirect
payment with presents.
The Doctor had no idea of allowing his porters to control his movements
in this fashion; and believing the shortest way was the best, he asked
Rionga to tell the men to go on, and that they would not receive any
more merissa.
The desired order was given at once, and the porters obeyed. The
incident delayed the departure of our friends for another half-hour, as
it was necessary to make some presents in return for the favor shown by
the king. A few beads and hatchets were sufficient, and then the
music-box was again wound up and set going, to the renewed delight of
the listeners.
When it was reported that the caravan was under way and the camp
entirely deserted, the ceremony of leave-taking was once more performed.
Doctor Bronson intended to return on foot to his huts, where the horses
were waiting, but the king asked that the animals should be led up and
mounted in his presence. Horses are rarely seen in this part of the
country. The king was familiar with them from having been often to
Foueira, but he desired to treat his wives to the strange spectacle of
Englishmen on horseback.
The steeds were brought up, and held by their grooms till their riders
were ready to mount. Doctor Bronson sprang lightly into the saddle, and
at almost the same instant Frank and Fred did likewise. The "Wah! wah!"
was loud and prolonged, and it was evident that the family of the king
had witnessed something unusual. Frank's horse was unused to the
presence of royalty, and began to dance, as though wishing to throw his
young rider. The youth was not at all alarmed at the performance, and
speedily brought the animal to terms, though not without some rearing
and plunging that caused a repetition of the cries of amazement on the
part of the beholders.
[Illustration: THE COUNTRY BACK FROM THE RIVER.]
On leaving the village the road turned away from the river, and did not
again approach it during the day. The country was undulating, with
occasional level plains, covered with heavy grass, and with belts of
forest similar to that which lines the banks of the river. In the hilly
regions there was little timber, the richest forests lying in the lower
portions, and especially on the borders of streams.
[Illustration: CROSSING A RIVER IN UNYORO.]
A few of the streams flowing from the mountains were sufficiently large
to make their passage a matter of difficulty. There were no boats to be
had at most of the crossings, and the only alternative was to wade or be
carried across on the shoulders of the porters. Where the water was
shallow our friends remained in their saddles and rode over at their
ease; but in some places the bottom was treacherous, and the travellers
did not think it wise to risk a fall. In these localities the horses
were led over, and each rider exchanged the saddle for a seat on the
shoulders of a stalwart negro.
They entered the country of Unyoro, or rather were some miles within its
limits, before they were aware of it. There had been rumors of
hostilities on the part of the Unyoro people before the party started up
the river from Afuddo, but the last intelligence at Foueira showed that
everything was quiet. Two or three villages were passed without halting.
The natives manifested no unfriendliness; but, on the other hand, did
not invite the strangers to stop and visit them.
Near every village there was a yard, where the cattle were driven at
night, the same as we have already seen among the Dinkas and other
tribes along the Nile. They passed some of the herds of cattle grazing
on the hill sides, and the boys observed that the herders in charge of
the stock seemed of a different type from the rest of the natives, being
much lighter in color. They asked Abdul what it meant; and he explained
that the stock-keepers are of a peculiar caste, and descended from the
Gallas, who long ago conquered the country.
"They are called Bohooma," said Abdul, "and none but these people are
allowed to attend the herds. The privilege descends from father to
son; and if the herds are captured by neighboring tribes and carried
off, the herders go with them, and remain in the same employment as
before. They never carry weapons of any kind, or take part in battle,
and nothing but death can separate them from their herds."
As they proceeded south our friends found that the rains were more
frequent, and water-proof garments were constantly needed. Doctor
Bronson had made careful provision for this emergency, so that there was
comparatively little suffering in consequence, save that the humidity of
the climate induced fevers, which did not spare a single member of the
party. The medical knowledge of the Doctor was of great use at this
time, and as there was a plentiful supply of sulphate of quinine in the
medicine-chest, and each of the travellers had a pocket-case constantly
within reach, the suffering was reduced to a minimum.
The boys endorsed the statement of previous travellers that rain and
humidity are the chronic condition of Central Africa. They found the
clouds a relief rather than otherwise, as the rays of the sun are
excessively warm, especially in the middle of the day, when they become
almost insupportable. The high elevation at which they were travelling
made the nights very cold. An abundance of thick clothing prevented
their suffering from the chilly nights, but their porters and attendants
had no such protection, and were wretchedly miserable all the time the
sun was below the horizon.
[Illustration: EFFECT OF A LONG RAIN IN AFRICA.--ANIMALS SEEKING
SAFETY.]
While they were at dinner, on the second evening after leaving Foueira,
the conversation naturally turned upon the peculiarities of the region
they were traversing.
"It is only within the present century," said the Doctor, "that we have
definitely ascertained the geography of the interior of Africa. It was
formerly supposed to be a mountainous region, sloping steadily away to
the sea; and there was a tradition, as I have before told you, of the
great rivers of Africa rising near each other and flowing in different
directions, as the water is carried from the roof of a house.
"The explorations of Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Du Chaillu, Cameron,
Baker, and others have demonstrated that the centre of the continent is
a vast plateau, or table-land, elevated from two thousand to four
thousand feet above the level of the sea. There are mountains in the
centre, and in various parts of this plateau, eight or ten thousand feet
high, and there is a rocky rim or edge nearly all the way around it,
with occasional openings, through which the rivers find their exit."
Frank was pushing aside his tea-saucer, when the Doctor paused and told
him to invert it on the table.
"Now," he continued, "you have in that tea-saucer, bottom upward, a
fairly good picture of the interior of Africa. Let the table where it is
lying represent the ocean surrounding the continent. The rim on which it
rests when right-side up is the mountainous ridge enclosing the central
plateau, and the space in the centre is the plateau, or table-land. The
slope from the ridge to the edge of the saucer is the strip of land
around the coast. It varies greatly, as it is very narrow in some parts
of the continent and quite broad in others. If you break a few notches
at irregular intervals along the ridge you will indicate the depressions
where the rivers pass from the equatorial basin to the great ocean."
Frank was about to make the notches suggested by the Doctor, and thus
complete the model of the "Dark Continent;" but he was checked by Fred,
who suggested that they were a long way from their base of supplies, and
tea-saucers could not be easily replaced. The practical illustration was
consequently deferred indefinitely.
"It is in the central basin," Doctor Bronson farther explained, "that we
find the great lakes which form the sources of the Nile, the
Livingstone, and the Zambesi."
"How about the Niger?" Frank asked. "Does it come from the same basin,
or does it have another origin?"
"The source of the Niger," replied the Doctor, "is far to the north of
the great basin where the three rivers I have named have their origin.
Thus far no European has seen the source of the Niger; it has been most
nearly reached by Winwood Reade, who visited the stream at a point where
it was not more than a hundred yards in width, and probably forty or
fifty miles from where it has its beginning.
[Illustration: SUNSET ON LAKE TCHAD.]
"The Niger was partially explored by the brothers Lander, Richard and
John, in 1830 and 1831; they visited it again in 1832 and 1834, and
endeavored to establish trade with the natives along the lower part of
the river, and also on its tributary, the Benoowe. The latter stream is
sometimes called the Chadda, or Tchadda, as it is supposed to rise in
Lake Tchad; but whether it does so or not is not fully established. The
Niger is properly formed by the junction of the Chadda and the Joliba,
the latter being the more western, and pronounced by those who have seen
it to be longer and larger than the Benoowe."
One of the boys asked if any other Europeans than the Landers and Mr.
Reade had explored the valley of the Niger.
"Yes," was the reply; "in its lower course it has been examined by so
many that the names would make a long list. Near the end of the last
century it was visited by Mungo Park, who was the first explorer of the
upper valley of the Niger, and he went there again in 1805.
Unfortunately for science, he was killed in this second expedition, and
his papers were lost with him. In 1828 a Frenchman named Chaillié sailed
down the river from Jenne to Timbuctoo, and reached Europe in safety.
His account supplied the deficiency left by the death of Park; and in
1853 Timbuctoo was visited by Dr. Barth, a German traveller, who
explored the river from that city to the town of Say, which lies in
latitude 13° 8' south, and longitude 2° 5' east.
[Illustration: SCENE ON THE NIGER AT SAY.]
"Barth has left the account of his travels in three large volumes, which
were published in 1857, and described his wanderings from 1849 to 1855.
He died in Berlin in 1865, and is justly regarded as one of the famous
explorers of Africa. His account of Timbuctoo is the best that has
reached us. He had a good opportunity to see the city, as he was
detained there nearly a year by the Sultan, who refused to let him go
on.
"The aggregate length of his journeyings was some fourteen thousand
miles, and the territory he opened to the knowledge of the civilized
world may be roughly estimated at four million square miles. He explored
Lake Tchad and a considerable portion of the valley of the Niger,
settled several questions that were troubling the geographers, and made
a large addition to the knowledge of the Great Desert of Sahara.
"We are wandering from the equatorial basin of Central Africa,"
continued the Doctor; "but while on this subject we may as well have a
peep at Timbuctoo. We must make it in imagination, as there is very
little prospect that any of us will ever get there in person. The French
are talking about a railway from the Mediterranean to Timbuctoo, and
they also propose an inland sea by cutting a canal to flood the
depression of the Sahara desert. Timbuctoo would be near the southern
shore of the proposed sea; but thus far the scheme has ended in nothing
but talk. When the railway is completed, or the lake is formed, we will
think about seeing the city, if, happily, any of us are alive.
"Timbuctoo had been heard of for centuries, but the first European to
visit it was Major Laing, in 1826. Chaillié went there in 1828, and
Barth in 1853; and, as I before told you, the latter has given us the
best account we have had of the city.
"Timbuctoo is smaller than you might suppose from its age and celebrity.
It has a population of about twenty thousand, which is largely increased
at the time of the season of trade, between November and January. The
city is a collection of huts of wood or stone, and there are few
buildings of more than one story in height. There are three great
mosques and several smaller ones. The largest of the mosques rises in
the shape of a pyramid, with a broad base from the south-western corner
of the town.
[Illustration: VIEW OF KABARA, THE PORT OF TIMBUCTOO.]
"Dr. Barth was not permitted to go inside the mosque; but he probably
did not miss much, as the native accounts of it represent the interior
to be quite plain and without ornament. The town is about nine miles
from the banks of the Niger. Its port is called Kabara, and is on a
sandy hill, sloping down to the river. There is a broad basin for boats
at Kabara, which Dr. Barth thought might be artificial, but was unable
to ascertain whether it was so or not.
"The trade of Timbuctoo is chiefly by caravans to Morocco, Algiers,
Tunis, and Tripoli. Ghadames, about three hundred miles south-west of
Tripoli, is the most important outlet for the products of Timbuctoo, and
the most southerly point to which travellers may venture without great
risk.
[Illustration: TIMBUCTOO, FROM THE TERRACE OF THE HOUSE OCCUPIED BY DR.
BARTH.]
"The population of Timbuctoo comprises several varieties of negroes and
Arabs, the latter coming from the desert regions to the north. All are
Moslems of the most fanatical kind, and for this reason the life of a
Christian is not safe in the city if his religion is known. The few
Europeans who have been there went in disguise, and Dr. Barth said his
death would have been a certainty if it had been known that he was
anything but a Moslem."
Here Doctor Bronson was called from the tent by Abdul, who wanted advice
about serving out provisions to the porters. Frank and Fred being left
to themselves, the conversation took a lighter turn, though it did not
leave the strange city they had been hearing about.
"It has been said," Frank remarked, "that the word 'Timbuctoo' has no
corresponding rhyme in our language."
"Haven't you heard," said Fred, "the rhyme that somebody once made for
it? Here it is:
"'If I were a cassowary,
On the sands of Timbuctoo,
I'd eat a missionary--
Eat his bones and hymn-book too.'"
"I think I can make another rhyme for it," responded Frank. "You
remember the Buck brothers, that spent a summer in our town once, don't
you?"
"Yes," replied Fred, "I remember them well; one was short and stout, and
the other tall and slim."
"Exactly so. Now, how'll this do?
"Just see how soon I write down
A rhyme for Timbuctoo:
We had at one time in our town
Stout Buck and Slim Buck too."
"Very good!" exclaimed his cousin. "But I can do as well as that without
half trying. Wasn't President Buchanan sometimes called 'Old Buck,' by
way of familiarity?"
"I believe he was," Frank answered.
"That being the case," said Fred, "he will do for a rhyme like this:
"To James Buchanan came a letter
From the King of Timbuctoo:
That monarch said, 'I can't do better
Than write Old Buck and Jim Buck too.'"
"That will do," was the response; "and here's another to match it:
"Sim and I went to the races,
By the coach from Timbuctoo:
When we went to book our places
I said to him, 'Please, Sim, book two. '"
Fred tried to compose something else on the subject, but the power of
rhyming left him, and he gave up the attempt just as the Doctor returned
from his conference with Abdul.