FROM THE ALBERT N'YANZA TO FOUEIRA.
The voyage of the lake was completed without any incident of importance.
The time went quickly enough in visits to the islands and occasional
halts on the shore, and a couple of days before the date arranged for
meeting Frank the steamer reached Magungo, and ascended the Somerset
River, or Victoria Nile, to the foot of Murchison Falls.
Frank was not there, but a messenger was waiting with a letter from him.
It briefly told the incidents of his journey from Afuddo to Foueira, and
said that he thought best to remain at Foueira, to make certain repairs
to the packages which were in his care, and had become injured on the
way, and also to keep the porters in readiness for their departure to
the south. Besides, if he went to the falls and returned to Foueira he
would be obliged to go twice over the same road. He preferred to hear of
the journey from the lips of Doctor Bronson and his cousin, rather than
to make it himself, and he hoped they would think his decision a proper
one.
Of course, his action was approved without hesitation, as his absence
from the fort might endanger the safety of their supplies, and there
might be difficulty in having the requisite number of porters when
wanted, if they were not kept steadily under control. Frank had taken
the precaution to send guides that could conduct them to Foueira, a
sufficient number of porters for carrying their baggage, and their
saddle-horses, in charge of faithful grooms.
Everything was unloaded from the steamer and piled on the bank of the
river. It was within a couple of hours of sunset when the work was
completed, and therefore Doctor Bronson determined not to move forward
till the next day, when they would make an early start. The proper
rewards were distributed to the officers and crew of the _Khedive_, and
the Doctor and his nephew slept on board for the last time. They were
roused before daylight by the faithful Ali, though they really had no
occasion to be called, as both were wide-awake when the youth rapped on
the doors of their cabins. The excitement of ending the lake voyage and
again returning to land travel had given Fred a night of wakefulness,
and it is possible that the same causes had had their effect on his more
experienced companion.
The sun was just peering above the horizon when the caravan was ready to
move. As the head of the column of porters turned into the path that led
along the bank of the river the steamer cast off the lines that had held
her to the shore and turned down the stream, on her return to the point
of departure. There was a general hurrahing on shore and on the boat, in
token of farewell. As the _Khedive_ disappeared around a bend of the
river our friends mounted their horses, and a few minutes later were
once more in the depths of the African forest.
[Illustration: CARAVAN CROSSING A PLAIN.]
Between Foueira and Murchison Falls there is a succession of cascades
and rapids. The Albert N'yanza is more than a thousand feet lower than
the Victoria N'yanza, and by far the greater part of this descent is
below Foueira; consequently the road taken by Doctor Bronson and his
nephew ascended considerably. In many places it was so steep that the
horses had no easy task to carry their riders, and the porters found it
necessary to make frequent halts. Most of the way the route was in sight
of the river, or would have been, save for the dense foliage that often
made it difficult to see more than a few yards. Near the cascades and
rapids the ground was so broken that it often became necessary to go
back from the bank a considerable distance to find smooth ground. In a
few places the road led over treeless plains several miles across, but
for the most part it was among forests and hills.
[Illustration: SCENE IN AN AFRICAN VILLAGE.]
There were several villages along the route, but our friends did not
stop long to examine them. They were all of the same pattern--a
collection of grass huts, running to a point at the top, and so heavily
thatched that the heaviest rain of tropical Africa could not penetrate
them. The inhabitants did not appear to have much to do, as they were
generally lying on the ground in front of their dwellings, or seated in
little groups, discussing the news of the day or the politics of the
country. At one village there was considerable excitement, and Fred
suggested that it was probably election-day, and a sharp contest was
going on among the friends of the rival candidates.
The guide talked with some of the people, and learned that it was not
the election of an official, but the advent of a lion in the
neighborhood, that made the commotion. The beast was said to be lurking
in a thicket close by the village, and the natives implored the Doctor
to help them kill the intruder. Fred seconded the proposal; and as the
thicket was not far off, and they could easily reach the camp, even if
delayed an hour or more, they consented.
[Illustration: CROSSING A RIVER ON A FALLEN TREE.]
The guide said it was only a few steps away, but it proved to be half a
mile and more, and, what was worse, there was a small stream in the way,
too wide to step over; it was also too deep for the strangers to ford,
though an easy matter for the natives. But there was a bridge, in the
shape of a fallen tree, and, by careful balancing along its surface, the
party, one by one, reached the other side without accident.
Several of the natives had gone on in advance and surrounded the
thicket, which, fortunately, was not very large. Doctor Bronson and Fred
took their places, about fifty yards apart, where it was thought the
lion would endeavor to escape when roused by the sound of the drums and
other noisy instruments carried by the natives. When all was ready the
signal was given, and the din of the discord began in its full force.
Fred was peering sharply into the bushes to watch for any moving thing;
all at once he caught sight of a yellow mass gliding along close to the
ground, and advancing in his direction. He was satisfied it was the
lion, and made ready to fire at the proper moment.
Fred's motion of his rifle attracted the Doctor's attention, and he too
brought his weapon to the shoulder, and prepared to use it at the first
opportunity.
The lion crept slowly, as if aware of his danger. Fred allowed him to
get within twenty yards of his position, and then discharged the rifle,
after taking careful aim.
The lion gave a bound into the air. He was evidently wounded, but quite
as evidently he was not killed.
Doctor Bronson was a good shot "on the wing," and while the lion was in
the air a bullet from the Doctor's rifle went crashing through his skull
and brought him dead to the ground. There was no need of any farther
shot, and the animal never moved a muscle after he touched the earth.
There was a wild shout from the guides and others who accompanied them,
and in a little while half a hundred and more of the people were around
the dead lion. Great was their delight to find that their enemy had been
slain, and they were ready to give the hunters anything they might ask.
Fred suggested that the skin of the lion would make an admirable trophy.
It was speedily removed, and the fleshy side covered with wood-ashes, to
assist in its preservation. Our friends declined all other rewards for
their services, and returned to the village, where their horses were
waiting.
On their way back to the village, and just after recrossing the stream
on the fallen tree, Fred managed to bring down a bird of a kind he had
never seen before. The Doctor examined it, and remarked that it was
something extraordinary.
[Illustration: GOATSUCKER ("COSMETORNIS SPEKII).]
"It is found in several parts of Africa," said he, "and is ordinarily
called a goatsucker, for the reason that it is erroneously supposed to
obtain milk from goats after the manner of the young kid, and without
the permission of their owners.
"The specimen you have just shot is called the _Cosmetornis Spekii_ by
the naturalists, as it was first described by the traveller Speke. The
seventh pen-feathers are double the length of the ordinaries, the eighth
is twice as long as the seventh, and the ninth is about twenty inches
long. The bird belongs to the same family as the whippoorwill and
night-hawk of North America. It rarely goes out by day, and it was quite
accidental that you were able to secure this specimen."
The chief of the village insisted on their acceptance of a present of
fresh fruit, as a token of friendship. Two enormous bunches of bananas
were handed over to the servants to carry to camp, and then the hunters
took their departure.
[Illustration: A CAMP NEAR THE HILLS.]
When they reached camp they found that the tents had been pitched on a
little plain backed by a range of hills, and just outside a native
village. An awning had been placed for the Doctor and Fred, where they
could recline comfortably, and have the full benefit of the evening
breeze as it swept down from the hills. The people came in with grain
and other things to sell, and there was no scarcity of provisions.
The character of the commerce of the region was shown by an incident
that occurred just after the arrival of our friends, and while they were
occupied in their tents.
A native came into camp leading a boy at the end of a rope. Whenever the
prisoner lagged he received a blow from a stick in the hands of his
cruel master; and just outside the line of tents the boy was the victim
of a sound beating, in order to make him show his best points when on
exhibition.
The negro offered the boy for sale, and asked where was the chief
trader. Ali replied that the chief of the party was a white man, and did
not buy slaves.
The negro did not believe Ali's statement, and repeated his demand to
see the chief.
"I will go and call him," said the boy; "but he is 'Ingleez,' and won't
buy slaves."
At the word "Ingleez" (English) the native comprehended the situation,
and made haste to get out of the camp with his human merchandise. All
through Africa the English detestation of the slave-trade is well known,
and whenever a trader learns of an Englishman being in his neighborhood
he knows that his traffic will receive no countenance. No distinction is
made between English and Americans, as the term "Ingleez" is applied to
all who speak the language of Great Britain. Frank and Fred tried
repeatedly to make the natives understand the difference between English
and Americans, but finally gave up the attempt and allowed themselves to
be classified as "Ingleez." The universal response to their explanations
was, that the strangers spoke the same language and came from beyond the
sea, and therefore there could be no difference between them. Frank said
there had been many differences, particularly in 1776 and 1812; but his
joke was totally lost on his dusky listeners.
The next day's march was through a rough country, the road ascending
steadily as it followed the valley of the river. The caravan passed
several villages, but made no halt at any of them, and the camp for the
night was made near a small stream which flowed into the great river,
less than a mile away. One of the natives brought a fish caught in the
stream. It bore a close resemblance to the trout, and Doctor Bronson
said it was evidently a member of that voracious but wary family. Its
native name was _moora_, and it was said to be found in several of the
smaller streams of that region, but not in the lakes or large rivers.
One of the porters met with a serious accident, and the Doctor's
professional skill was called into play. The man slipped on a sloping
rock, and the fall broke one of the small bones of his right leg. The
natives desired to treat it after their manner, which consisted in
covering the limb with earth, and then building a fire over it, till the
patient howls with agony. He is then released, and the half-roasted
flesh is bound in splints and wound with thin bark, and must take its
chances of healing. The Doctor refused to allow this treatment, and set
the broken limb after the usual manner of American surgeons. Four
bearers were then employed to carry the man on a litter to Foueira; and
they set off an hour in advance of the caravan, so that there should be
no delay.
[Illustration: KAWENDÉ SURGERY.]
The incident recalled the account which Dr. Livingstone gives of the
surgery he once witnessed in the Kawendé country, where the thigh-bone
of a native was smashed by the accidental discharge of a rifle. It was
as follows:
"First of all a hole was dug, say, two feet deep and four in length, in
such a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out before
him. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh and earth
thrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next act
was to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer
of mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire
lighted on the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke
smothering the sufferer they held a tall mat, as a screen, before his
face, and the operation went on. After some time the heat reached the
limbs underground; and bellowing with fear, and covered with
perspiration, the man implored them to let him out.
"The authorities, concluding that he had been sufficiently long under
treatment, quickly burrowed down and lifted him from the hole. He was
now held perfectly fast while two strong men stretched the wounded limb
with all their might. Splints, duly prepared, were afterward bound round
it, and we must hope that in due time benefit accrued; but as the ball
had passed through the limb, we must have our doubts on the subject. The
villagers said that they constantly treated bad gunshot wounds in this
way with perfect success."
The march the next day and the next were without incident of
consequence; and as both Fred and the Doctor were anxious to get to
Foueira and meet the companion of their travels through Asia, we will
gratify their wishes and stand within a few miles of the encampment.
Frank had been notified by the porters who brought the wounded man in
advance of the caravan. Immediately on receiving the news he prepared to
go out to meet them; and thus it happened that they saw the young
gentleman riding along the path when the encampment was yet half a dozen
miles away.
The meeting was a happy one for all concerned. The boys ran to embrace
each other, and the Doctor joined them, so that a triangle of happiness
was speedily formed. The natives set up a shout of greeting, partly on
account of the meeting of the white men, and partly on their own behalf.
There was a considerable number of their friends who had accompanied
Frank from the fort, and made haste to remove the burdens from the heads
and shoulders of the weary porters and transfer them to their own. Of
course all had to sit down for a while to exchange gossip. Fully an hour
was taken up with the fraternal meeting, and then the march was resumed.
There was little sleep that night in the camp at Foueira until long
after twelve o'clock. Our friends had a thousand things to say to each
other, and the stories of the last thirty days included a great deal on
both sides. The natives had a festival in honor of the safe arrival of
the party from the lake: it included a dance around the camp-fires, and
a theatrical exhibition, in which some of them were dressed as demons.
[Illustration: A PAIR OF SHAM DEMONS.]
As these demons were said to be curiosities worth examining, Frank and
Fred went out to see them. Frank thought they were more hideous than
anything he had ever seen, and Fred suggested that the African idea of
demons did not run in the line of beauty. One of them had his entire
body covered with a coarse net from the neck down to his feet; his feet
and hands were covered with gloves, and his head was concealed by a sort
of helmet or mask. The net was striped horizontally, so that the man
reminded our friends of a prisoner of Sing Sing, and the gloves and
socks were laced to the rest of the dress, so that not an inch of skin
was anywhere visible.
The man carried a staff in one hand and a bell in the other. He tinkled
the bell constantly, and its sound was a signal that he wanted presents,
which were to be given to a small boy who followed him with a bag. The
other sham demon wore the same kind of clothing. His mask was adorned
with a row of feathers, and the face was hideously painted, while a
fringed hoop was extended around his waist. A brief inspection of these
grotesque figures was sufficient for our friends, who gave some trifling
presents and then returned to their tents.
Abdul said that these sham demons are to be found among many African
tribes, the dress varying according to the fancy of its owner, whose
chief endeavor is to conceal his identity while going through his
performances, and also to make himself as hideous as possible. The men
are analogous to the rain-makers already described, and one of their
duties is to keep the real demons from visiting the fields and villages.
As no two demons can occupy the same place at once, the shams compel the
genuine to move away by monopolizing all the good spots where a demon
might wish to live. The trade is by no means unprofitable, as the
inhabitants pay liberally for their services. Whenever a calamity of any
kind occurs a broad hint is given that the people have been stingy of
late, and thus the real demons have put in an appearance.
[Illustration: AN AFRICAN BAND OF MUSIC.]
Another curiosity of the occasion was the band which furnished the
music. It came in front of the tents and played in honor of the
strangers, who went out to see as well as to listen.
The instruments consisted of hollow gourds, wooden drums, and
_marimbas_. The drums were made of long strips of thin planks, which had
been soaked in hot water to make them flexible. In this condition they
were bent till the ends met, when they were fastened together and
allowed to dry. They were capable of a good deal of noise when used
industriously, and the natives who managed them seemed to give their
whole minds and muscles to the operation.
The hollow gourds were blown upon as one might blow into the end of a
door-key, and produced a sound like the heavy note of a bugle. The least
unpleasant of all the instruments was the _marimba_. It consisted of
small sticks placed over the mouths of gourds, and arranged on a
portable table suspended from the performer's neck. In this position the
sticks were beaten more or less gently, and as they were set to
different notes the sound was a nearer approach to music than that of
the other instruments.
A little of this performance was quite sufficient; and the Doctor
distributed presents to the players and hinted that they could move on.
But they were determined to give him the value of his money, and
continued playing till Abdul came among them and said the _Ingleez_ had
had all they wanted. Even this did not succeed in stopping them, and
they were only induced to discontinue their labors by the promise of
more presents in the morning, coupled with the threat of nothing
whatever in case they made any more noise that night.
[Illustration: SHAM DEMONS READY FOR BUSINESS.]