CHAPTER IV.

HENNOKAIK TO TECKEL.

Ceremonial of Welcome. -- Hinchel's Indians. -- Tehuelches

and Araucanos. -- Jackechan and the Chupat Tribe. -- My

Examination. -- Encampment at Henno. -- Peaceful Occupations.

-- The Oldest Inhabitant. -- Chiriq. -- The Hidden Cities. --

Modern Legends. -- Mysteries of the Cordillera. -- Los Cesares.

-- La Ciudad Encantada. -- Its Whereabouts. -- The Indian

Cesares. -- The Guanaco. -- The Patagonian Ostrich. --

Neighbourhood of Chiriq. -- Horseracing. -- Indian Horses. --

Indian Dogs. -- Dog and Lover. -- Plaiting Sinews. -- Windy

Hill. -- Surrounded by Fire. -- Young Guanaco. -- Arrival of

Grog. -- News from Santa Cruz. -- Gisk. -- Romantic Scenery. --

A Pleasant Neighbourhood. -- Fairy Glen. -- Breaking a Horse.

-- Female Curiosity. -- The Wild Cattle Country. -- The Forests

of the Cordillera. -- The Watershed. -- Among the Mountains. --

Wild Flowers. -- A Bull Fight. -- The Bull Victorious. -- No

Christmas Beef. -- Teckel. -- Change of Quarters.

As we were whiling away the next forenoon in fishing and disporting

ourselves generally in the water, smoke was descried at various points

to the westward, and about 2 P.M. the head of the heavy column of women,

children, and innumerable horses came into view on the northern side of

the valley. All instantly repaired to the toldos, accoutred ourselves,

and got up the horses in preparation for the arrival of the visitors;

the meeting of any number of Indians after a separation being recognised

as an affair of considerable importance. Shortly after our horses were

caught and saddled, and, indeed, before some of our party were ready,

the men who had been hunting _en route_ appeared, and the ceremonial of

welcome was duly observed.

Both parties, fully armed, dressed in their best, and mounted on their

best horses, formed into opposite lines.

The Northern Indians presented the gayest appearance, displaying flannel

shirts, ponchos, and a great show of silver spurs and ornamental

bridles. The chiefs then rode up and down, dressing the ranks and

haranguing their men, who kept up a continual shouting of 'Wap, Wap,

Wap.' I fell in as a private, though Casimiro had vainly endeavoured

to induce me to act as 'Capitanejo' or officer of a party. The Buenos

Ayrean colours were proudly displayed on our side, while the Northerns

carried a white weft, their ranks presenting a much better drilled

aspect than our ill-disciplined forces. Messengers or hostages were then

exchanged, each side deputing a son or brother of the chief for that

purpose; and the new comers advanced, formed into columns of threes,

and rode round our ranks, firing their guns and revolvers, shouting and

brandishing their swords and bolas. After galloping round at full speed

two or three times, they opened ranks, and charged out as if attacking

an enemy, shouting 'Koue' at every blow or thrust. The object of attack

was supposed to be the 'Gualichu' or demon, and certainly the demon

of discord had need to be exorcised. Hinchel's party then halted

and reformed their line, while we, in our turn, executed the same

manœuvres. Afterwards the Caciques advanced and formally shook hands,

making, each in turn, long and complimentary speeches. This was repeated

several times, the etiquette being to answer only 'Ahon' or Yes, until

the third repetition, when all begin to talk, and formality is gradually

laid aside. It was rather a surprise to find etiquette so rigorously

insisted on, but these so-called savages are as punctilious in observing

the proper forms as if they were Spanish courtiers.

These Northern Tehuelches, under the command of Hinchel, usually

frequent the country lying between the Rio Negro and the River Sengel,

and once a year, about July, visit the settlement of Patagones, where

their stay is generally short, only sufficient for them to barter their

furs and feathers, and for the chiefs at the same time to receive their

rations of mares, cattle, ponchos, yerba, tobacco, &c., allowed by the

Government of Buenos Ayres. By the time we met them in November they had

little to show of the gains of their August visit to Rio Negro except

a few mares and gay-coloured ponchos. Hinchel, however, owned two or

three head of cattle which were said to have been caught at the head of

the Chupat valley, being supposed to be stray cattle belonging to the

Welsh settlers. Some of the Indians had still also a little yerba left,

and tobacco in plenty; and on the occasion of the welcome many were

dressed in coloured ponchos, chiripas, and some in leathern boots. With

arms they were passably well provided, guns and revolvers being in

proportion of about one to four men. During the time that we were

occupied in the ceremony the women of the newly-arrived party busied

themselves in pitching their toldos; and shortly after we had returned

to our camp, which was a little apart from that of the new comers, and

appeared very small and insignificant when contrasted with theirs, the

Cacique came over, and presented mares, horses, and other gifts to the

chiefs of our party; and a grand feast was celebrated in our toldos.

Many of the new comers rode over, two or sometimes three mounted on one

horse, and would, if not acquainted with the inmates, stop in front

of a toldo and look in for a few minutes, then ride on to another,

and so on. As these were mostly young men, their real object was

probably to reconnoitre the young ladies. One, however, who, though

undistinguishable from the Indians in appearance, and who looked like

an Araucano, but was really by birth a Spaniard, having been carried off

in his childhood from a settlement, brought over a pack of cards, and

some of our party were soon deep in a game of siete, at which the

stranger being a proficient, soon cleared them out completely.

[Illustration: CEREMONY OF WELCOME (TEHUELCHES AND ARAUCANIANS).]

Next day I paid a visit to Hinchel. He spoke no Spanish, but he managed

to converse, and he asked me if the Southern Tehuelches were not a queer

lot, for he had heard that they killed men as readily as they would

guanaco. From what Casimiro had reported, I was already inclined to

respect this Cacique, who had expressed such readiness to protect or

avenge a guest of the Indians, and closer acquaintance only strengthened

my regard for him. He was a fine-looking man, with a pleasant,

intelligent countenance, which was not belied by his disposition.

He never, to my knowledge, exceeded sobriety, and was good-humoured

and self-possessed; though if once roused to fight, his resolute and

determined courage was well known. He was skilled at all sorts of

handicraft, and was always busily employed. He was generous to a

fault--ready to give away everything if asked for it, and often without

the asking. His great weakness was an inveterate fondness for gambling,

which, together with his lavish good nature, eventually impoverished him

greatly. At his request, I informed Casimiro and Orkeke that he desired

to hold a parlemento. Accordingly, the chiefs all proceeded to a place

agreed upon between the two camps, where they took their seats in a

circle on the grass. After various harangues from Hinchel and others,

it was resolved that Casimiro should be elected chief in command of the

Tehuelches; and that after the expiration of the young guanaco season,

all present, together with those expected from the neighbourhood of the

Chupat, should proceed to a place called Teckel, and thence march to Las

Manzanas, to unite there with the Araucanian Indians, some of whom had

already communicated with us, and had promised to forward my letters,

_viâ_ Las Manzanas, to Rio Negro.

The relations between the Tehuelches or Tsonecas of Patagonia and the

Araucanian Indians of Las Manzanas had been previously by no means of

a pacific nature. It has been already mentioned that near the Sengel we

passed the scene of a fierce battle between them. Tankelow bore still

the scars of seven lance wounds received in a battle when he was left

for dead on the field. On the same occasion Orkeke was taken prisoner,

but, although mutilated, succeeded eventually in effecting his escape.

Casimiro's father also became a prisoner in an unsuccessful assault

on an Araucanian stronghold. After two or three years' captivity he

succeeded, with two of his comrades, in escaping, and while hurrying to

rejoin the Tehuelches in the vicinity of Geylum, met with a solitary

Araucanian. He seeing a fire, approached unsuspicious of danger, and was

welcomed and invited to smoke; they then seized him, stripped and bound

him hand and foot, and left him lying on the pampa, a helpless prey to

the condors and pumas. The two fugitives, having thus gratified their

desire for vengeance, succeeded in rejoining their own people, and

organised an attack on the Araucanos, in which Casimiro's father was

killed. Some wonderful feats of valour were described to me as having

been achieved by the Tehuelches; but in fact the Manzaneros proved

themselves the superior warriors, and even at the time of our visit to

them had Tehuelche slaves. The powerful cacique Lenquetrou succeeded in

healing the old feuds, and united all the Indians under his leadership.

He was treacherously killed by an Argentine officer at Bahia Blanca

during the peace between the Indians and the Christians, and after his

death the old quarrels broke out afresh. Casimiro's diplomacy, however,

succeeded during the time of my visit in conciliating all parties,

and the result appeared in the amicable arrangements concluded at the

Parlemento, and afterwards successfully carried out. Had it not been for

this, my journey to Las Manzanas, and thence to the Rio Negro, would

have been dangerous, if not altogether impossible.

Two days after the arrival of the Northern party the Indians from

the Chupat came in, and were duly welcomed by our united forces, the

ceremonial on this occasion presenting a very animated scene. They

numbered between seventy and eighty men, with women and children,

occupying about twenty toldos. Most of them were young men of Pampa, or

mixed Pampa and Tehuelche blood, but there were a few pure Tehuelches in

their ranks, their chief being a Pampa named 'Jackechan,' or Juan. As I

watched them drawn up, or careering round us during the welcome, they

appeared to present a different type from that of my first friends,

being generally shorter, though as muscular, and even apparently more

broadly built, with complexions lighter, and their dress and persons

smarter and cleaner. They were all well armed with lances and firearms,

and were evidently kept well in hand by the chief. Their range of

country lay between the same limits as that of Hinchel's people, but

they habitually seemed to have kept more to the sea-coast, where many

of them had been accustomed to visit the Welsh colony at the Chupat for

trade, and in their opinion, as afterwards expressed to me, the honest

Welsh colonists were much pleasanter and safer to deal with than 'the

Christians' of the Rio Negro. They seemed to have been especially

impressed with the size and excellence of the home-made loaves, one of

which would be given in return for half a guanaco, and Jackechan often

expatiated on the liberality of the colonists and the goodness of their

bread. These men also felt strongly the kindness with which an Indian,

if overtaken with rum, would be covered up or carried into an outhouse

by the Chupat people; whereas at the Rio Negro the only attention

paid to him would be to strip and plunder him completely. During the

afternoon the chief, Jackechan, sent a request to the 'Englishman'

to pay him a visit, so I repaired to his toldo, and was courteously

received by him. He wore a beautifully-wrought silver chain, with a

medallion of the Madonna suspended to it, of which he seemed pardonably

proud. Having been invited to take a seat, and the pipe having been duly

passed round, it became evident that I was to be tested as to my real

claims to the character of an Englishman. Jackechan, during his visits

to the Chupat, had become acquainted with Mr. Lewis Jones, the Director

of the colony, and so had learned the name of the Queen of England, &c.,

and he proceeded to interrogate me accordingly. I found him to be a most

intelligent Indian, speaking Spanish, Pampa, and Tehuelche fluently; and

our acquaintance thus commenced ripened into a strong mutual friendship.

My answers proving quite satisfactory, he was evidently much pleased,

and ordered his wife to produce coffee, a little of which he had still

remaining from his store procured at Chupat. Whilst discussing this

luxury, we had a long conversation on various topics, and he produced

a photograph of Mr. Jones and some letters, one being an order for a

ration of animals, mares and cattle, from the Argentine Government. He

stated that he had not visited Patagones for some years, on account of a

fight that had taken place, but would perhaps now accompany our party.

Whilst conversing, his son, a boy of some twelve years of age, came in

and startled me by his unlikeness to the other Indian boys, for his

brown hair and eyes and fair complexion might easily have caused one

to take him for an English boy. His mother was not present, as, for

domestic reasons, Jackechan had parted with her; but I subsequently saw

her, and she, although a handsome woman, had no European traits about

her except that of having quarrelled with her husband. The following day

was spent in a second parlemento--or, as the Indians call it, 'aix'--and

all agreed to place themselves under the orders of Casimiro, for the

purpose of protecting Patagones in the possible event of an invasion

by the Indians of Rouke, or 'Calficura,' from the country north of Rio

Negro. All present saw the importance of protecting Patagones, as, if

that town should be destroyed, there would be no market for their furs,

&c.

Our encampment was situated in a large grassy valley watered by a stream

flowing to the eastward, which was finally lost in a large marsh. The

valley, which may have been about twelve miles in length and perhaps

four in width at its broadest part, was confined by hills which,

closing, narrowed it in at the eastern and western extremities. To the

N.W. and N. the hills--which almost merited the name of mountains--were

peculiarly rugged, more especially towards their summits. About N.N.E.

by compass from our camp, there was a pass formed by a dip or break in

the range leading north, and through the mouth of the pass we could see

the smoke of the hunting parties of the Araucanian Indians, who were,

however, many leagues distant. Throughout Patagonia smoke is always

visible at a great distance, and the practised eyes of the Indians can

distinguish it from the clouds, when ordinary persons would be unable to

discern it unless pointed out to them. On the southern and eastern sides

of the valley lay a range of hills, the rugged summits of which rose

from lower slopes of more regular swell, and presenting more even

and down-like surfaces than those on the western and northern sides.

Immediately above our encampment the hill of Henno, from which the

valley is named, rose from the plain. Near the summit of this hill

Orkeke and myself, who for amusement had ridden up to it, one day

came across the bleached skeleton of a man, perhaps one of two young

Argentines who, as I was subsequently informed, had travelled thus far

in company with the Indians, and had been for some--or no--reason killed

by them near this spot. In the surrounding hills red porphyry frequently

cropped out, and also veins of a red agate, unlike the flint agate so

common in all the plains of Patagonia. The rocks near the summits of the

hills were generally of igneous formation, and on the slopes of these

hills frequent springs gushed out, easily discoverable from a distance

by the vivid green of the grass growing round them. As we gazed down

from the height of Henno, the valley lay before us like a picture; our

few toldos were situated in a group to the east, on the south side of

the stream; about a quarter of a mile to the north the thirty or forty

toldos of the Northern Indians were pitched, and opposite to them, on

the north side of the stream, those of the party commanded by Jackechan

or Juan. The scene was animated but peaceful: here might be seen a party

of young men playing at ball, in another a man breaking a colt, and down

by the side of the stream groups of girls bathing, or wandering in the

swamps picking the wild spinach which grew all along the margin of the

water in great quantities. One day I went on an excursion with the

children to pluck spinach and plunder the nests of wild ducks and upland

geese, from which we returned laden with spoil, and in the evening a

stew, _à la_ Tehuelche, was made with ostrich grease, spinach, and eggs,

which combination was universally approved of. Another day we went

fishing, and after catching several with a hook and line, voted it slow

work, so contrived a net by sewing two ponchos together, and wading

into the stream dragged the shallow parts, and, notwithstanding the

duck weed, which rather impeded us, made several good hauls, the take

consisting of the perch-like fish and a black species of cat-fish: the

Indians, however, except Casimiro, would not eat the fish, and evidently

regarded my enjoyment of them much as an Englishman would at first view

their appreciation of blood. Another day we went on an expedition to

dig up a species of root somewhat resembling a parsnip, but although we

grubbed about for an hour our efforts were only scantily rewarded by

a few small roots, which were given to the children. One roasted in

the ashes, at Mrs. Orkeke's invitation I tasted, and found it rather

tasteless and insipid.

During our stay in this pleasant resting-place the weather was bright

and sunny, and on calm days warm, and the absence of rain almost made it

appear like summer; but whenever the west wind blew, the piercing cold

dispelled the passing illusion. The long delay which was necessary to

recruit our horses, in anticipation of a campaign against the young

guanaco and the wild cattle, was most acceptable to all the members of

our party; and after the two preceding months of quarrels, real and

suspected dangers, and forced marches, our present peaceable existence,

though devoid of adventure, was thoroughly enjoyable. An occasional

hunting party, interchange of visits and card parties with the recent

arrivals, fishing, foraging for birds' eggs, spinach, &c., with some

flirting, and, by way of business, a parlemento or two, made our time

pass merrily enough at Henno.

Our hunting parties were under the direction of 'the oldest inhabitant,'

an aged cacique called Guenalto, with venerable white hair, and who had

been crippled by a lance-thrust, received, to his honour be it said,

while endeavouring to mediate between two of his friends. His great age

and amiable character commanded universal respect; and on a hunting

morning he would sit under a bush and speechify for half an hour,

recounting old deeds of prowess, and exhorting us to do our best. The

old man was a frequent and welcome visitor at our toldo, where he was

encouraged to indulge to his heart's content in long-winded stories. My

compass greatly excited his curiosity, and he took it into his head that

it possessed a magical power which could effect the restoration of the

use of his arm. He accordingly begged to be allowed to hold it in his

hand; and sat patiently, with an air of awe and faith combined, for an

hour, afterwards declaring that the operation had done him much good.

We greatly pleased him by repairing his coat of mail, a complete tunic

of heavy iron chains, of unknown antiquity, bound together by strips of

hide, and weighing over a hundredweight. This he informed me he only put

on to defend himself from 'foolish Indians.'

His use of my compass was rivalled by the custom of other friends, who

were wont to borrow it when engaged in a game of cards; their belief

being that the magic instrument gave luck to the happy possessor for

the time being; and I often thought that it was fortunate I had brought

no other instrument, as 'shooting the sun' would have been certainly

regarded as a piece of sorcery, and any death or accident happening

afterwards would have been visited on the head of the magician. As it

was, my taking notes was often regarded with suspicious curiosity, and

inquiries made as to what there could possibly be in that place to write

about, as although the Tehuelche mind can comprehend writing letters to

friends or officials, it by no means understands keeping a journal; and

'some untutored Indian' might probably, if suspicious that 'i'faith

he'll prent it,' instead of waiting to cut up the book, anticipate all

reviewers by cutting up the intended author himself.

On the 18th of November the camp at Henno was broken up, and all marched

a few leagues to the west, crossing successive rocky ridges running

parallel to the Cordillera, and divided by well-watered valleys, and

encamped near a valley watered by the same river, which between this

place and Henno makes a considerable bend. This station was named

'Chiriq,' from a description of bush, with a leaf somewhat resembling

that of the sloe, which grows abundantly on the banks of the stream. The

wood of this shrub is soft and of little value, but burns well when dry.

At this time neither flower nor fruit was visible, but it was described

to me as bearing a berry resembling the currant. Since our departure

from the wooded river Sengel, a description of cactus, or, as the

Spaniards call it, tuna, bearing a tasteless fruit something like the

ordinary prickly pear, had been met with occasionally, and found very

troublesome, for as it grows close to the ground its spines are very apt

to lame the horses if not carefully avoided in the chase. From Chiriq a

large plain appeared to extend for some leagues to the westward, bounded

north and south by a wooded range of hills, and extending apparently

to the bases of the lofty snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera, which

appeared to form a complete barrier.

During our stay here an incident occurred which led to the collection

and comparison of the traditions concerning the hidden or enchanted city

which still are current and believed among the Indians and Chilotes.

One day while hunting we were startled by a loud report, as of the

discharge of a cannon, and looking to the west saw a black cloud of

smoke hanging above the peaks of the Cordillera. My companion Jackechan

told me that on several previous visits to this station the Indians had

observed similar columns of smoke in the same direction. On one occasion

so convinced were they that it was caused by human agency, that a party

set out to endeavour to penetrate the forests and reach the dwellings of

the unknown residents, which the smoke was believed to point out. They

proceeded some distance into the recesses of the mountain forests, but

the extreme difficulties of travelling compelled them at last to abandon

their purpose and retrace their steps. It is of course most probable

that both the explosion and the smoke proceeded from some unknown active

volcano in the range; but the Indians firmly believe in the existence

either of an unknown tribe, or of an enchanted or hidden city. The

Araucanians when met with farther north had a story current amongst them

of having discovered a settlement of white people, who spoke an unknown

tongue, in the recesses of the mountains in the same vicinity. The

Chilotes and Chilians from the western side fondly cherish the belief

in the existence of La Ciudad Encantada, and the mythical people Los

Cesares, to the discovery of which, according to De Angelis--to whose

research is due the collection of all the records on the subject--the

attention of Buenos Ayres, Lima, and Chili was so long directed. A

Chilote or Valdivian, named Juan Antonio, narrated to me that he knew a

man who was acquainted with another who had heard from a third that the

last-named deponent was one of a party who visited the coast opposite to

Chiloe for the purpose of wood cutting. They ascended in their boat a

river, which as described was probably that the upper course of which

we afterwards struck in the Cordillera. Having reached the woods, they

separated to cut timber. One of their number was missing at the evening

camp-fire; his comrades, however, waited for him, but gave him up at

last, and were already preparing to return, when he rejoined them, and

recounted a strange adventure. Deep in the forest he had come upon a

path, which he followed for some distance, till he heard the sound of a

bell, and saw clearings, by which he knew himself to be near a town or

settlement. He soon met some white men, who made him prisoner, and after

questioning him as to the cause of his being there, blindfolded him, and

led him away to an exceedingly rich city, where he was detained prisoner

for several days. At last he was brought back, still blindfolded,

and when the bandage was removed found himself near the place of his

capture, whence he made his way back to his comrades. Juan Antonio, the

narrator, and Meña, one of the Chilian deserters who was present, fully

believed this story, which, however, bears a suspicious resemblance

to one told a hundred years before; and both declared that it was all

caused by witchcraft or enchantment.

Another curious story was related to me, the hero of which was a

mischievous imp of twelve years old, who was afterwards attached to my

service as page, and for impudence and uselessness might have been a

page of the court of Louis Quatorze. He had been in company with Foyel's

tribe of Indians and Valdivians in the neighbourhood of the Cordillera.

One day the hopeful boy was missed, and although careful search was

made, no traces of him were discoverable. Three months afterwards he

turned up again, dressed in the same clothes and in remarkably good

condition, his spirits and impudence undiminished. My friend Ventura

Delgado, a white Valdivian, who was in the camp at the time of his

absence and return, vouched from personal observation for so much of the

story. When questioned as to his whereabouts and with whom he had been,

he answered with confidence, 'With the man on the island in the lake.'

There was no known lake nearer than Nahuel-huapi, thirty miles distant,

though a chain of lakes must from old accounts exist within the

Cordillera; and it certainly was strange how, if he had wandered in

the forests for so long a period, subsisting on roots, strawberries,

and the plant named talka, he should have preserved his well-fed

condition; it was equally puzzling to imagine why if made a captive

by strangers he should have been allowed to return.

Another curious fable was told by my guide J'aria, when we were

travelling from Punta Arena, _apropos_ of the wild animals in Patagonia,

on which Lieut. Gallegos was enlarging. J'aria asked if I had ever head

of the Tranco, or Trauco, which the Chilotes aver inhabits the western

forests of the Cordillera. Gallegos declared that there was no doubt of

its existence, and described it as possessing the form of a wild man,

covered with a fell of coarse shaggy hair. This nondescript--a specimen

of which would no doubt be invaluable to, though not met with on those

coasts by Mr. Darwin--is said to descend from the impenetrable forests

and attack the cattle, on which it preys. This is possibly a pure

invention, emanating from the aguardiente muddled brain of a Chilian,

but it seems to have a certain relation to the vague stories of unknown

wild tribes dwelling in the unexplored and wooded mountain regions.

It is hard to convey the sense of mysterious space and undiscoverable

dwelling-places impressed on the spectator by the vast solitudes of the

mountains and forests of the Cordillera. The inexplicable sounds of

crashing rocks, or explosions from unknown volcanoes, and the still

stranger tones which resemble bells and voices, all suggest to the

ignorant and superstitious natives confirmation of the strange

circumstantial stories handed down for several generations; and it is

hard for anyone, even with the assistance of educated reason, to resist

the powerful spell of the legends told in sight of these mysterious

mountains. My readers will perhaps laugh at the narration of these

vagaries of imagination, or will inquire what is the legend of the

Cesares, and of the enchanted city. If they have read the delightful

pages of 'Westward Ho,' they will not be unacquainted with the shifting

mirage of that rich city; which, from Mexico to the Magdalena, mocked

the search of so many eager adventurers. The Gran Quivira of New Mexico,

the fabled Iximaya, the El Dorado of Guyana, and El Gran Paytiti of

Brazil, the baseless fabrics of many a golden vision, are found repeated

with change of place and circumstances in this city of Los Cesares.

There is a curious combination of three distinct strands of legends in

the chain which connects the marvellous stories of the Northern Indians

and Chilotes with the accounts so circumstantially deposed to, and

firmly believed by, the Spaniards of the last century. The first is the

conquest of Los Cesares in 1539. Sebastian Cabot, from his settlement

of Carcarañal on the Parana, sent his pilot Cesar with 120 soldiers

to explore the river, 60 being left to garrison the fort;[5] this

expedition proceeded as far as the junction of the Parana and Paraguay,

which latter river they ascended to the Laguna Sta. Anna, on the way

defeating the hostile Indians. They reached the boundaries of the

Guaranis, with whom they made friendship and returned. They next set out

to proceed overland to Peru, and crossed the Cordillera. After making

their way against incredible difficulties, they reached a province, the

inhabitants of which were rich in cattle, vicuñas, and gold and silver.

The ruler of the province, 'a great lord,' at whose capital they at last

arrived, received his Spanish visitors kindly, and entertained them

with all honour, until at their own choice they were allowed to return

enriched with presents of gold and precious stuffs. The Spaniards

regained their fort on the Parana only to find it a deserted ruin; the

Indians having surprised and massacred the garrison. Cesar thereupon led

his party to the settlements, and thence started on another expedition,

in which he again crossed the Cordillera, and from a height beheld, as

he imagined, the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic on either hand,

probably mistaking some large lagoon for the distant Atlantic. He then

made his way up the coast to Atacama, and thence to Cuzco, at which

city he joined the conquerors just at the period of the capture of the

ill-fated Inca Atahuallpa.

[5] Fte. S. Espiritu.

This marvellous traverse of all the country was spoken of ever after as

the conquest of Los Cesares, and the whole account was set forth by Ruy

Diaz Guzman in 1612, whose authority was one of the Conquistadores of

Peru, named Arzon, who had learned all the particulars from Don Cesar

himself in Cuzco. It does not seem, however, that more than this name,

and perhaps the tradition of the rich Indian city, were preserved in

the romantic rumours that began to obtain currency in the seventeenth

century, and continued to gain credit till 1781, when the Fiscal of

Chili, having been charged to make inquiry, summed up in an elaborate

state paper all the evidence in favour of the existence of a rich and

strong city, situated somewhere between 45° and 56° south, and urged

the Spanish Government to authorise an expedition to discover and take

possession of it. The city was described by various veracious (?)

authorities as 'defended by walls, ditches, and ravelins, the only

entrance being protected by a draw-bridge, besides which cautious

sentries were always stationed on an adjoining hill to detect intrusive

strangers. The buildings were sumptuously constructed, the houses being

of wrought stone with azotea roofs; and the churches were covered with

glittering roofs of silver, and gorgeously furnished within. Of silver,

too, were all utensils, knives, and even ploughshares made; and the

inhabitants used golden stools and seats. They were light complexioned,

with blue eyes and thick beards, and spoke a language unintelligible

to both Spaniards and Indians. They wore jackets of blue cloth, yellow

capes, and blue wadmal drawers and loose silk trousers, with large boots

and small three-cornered hats! They possessed numerous cattle, marked

with brands similar to those of the Spanish colonists; but their

principal article of cultivation was pepper, in which they traded with

their neighbours, maintaining withal a complete system of exclusive

isolation.' By one account the population was composed of the

descendants of the crews of several ships which had been wrecked in

the Straits of Magellan from 1523 to 1539, the survivors of which had

made their way overland and founded a settlement. A wandering padre

was said to have received the news of its existence from some Indians,

accompanied by a knife as a token, which was recognised as having

belonged to the captain of a stranded vessel. The padre set out to

discover his countrymen, but lost his life on the road. Another more

precise tradition declared that the surviving inhabitants of Osorno,

after having maintained a heroic defence against the Araucanians, under

the victorious chief Caupolican, in 1539, made good their escape with

their families and cattle to a peninsula in a great lagoon thirty miles

long and seven or eight wide, situate near Reloncavi, or the volcano

called Osorno, where they built a city strongly defended on the landward

side by a fosse and drawbridge raised every night. This lagoon was by

others said to be that of Payeque, near a rapid stream named Llanqueco.

An explorer named Roxas, in 1714, who started from Buenos Ayres, and

whose route lay south-west from Tandil and the Volcan, gives most

precise distances and landmarks to define the position of the Cesares.

He mentions especially a river with a ford only passable during one

period of the year, and a hill on which is found much magnetic iron ore.

These landmarks, and the rest of his description, point to the locale of

that remarkable rock formation mentioned in p. 100, which, seen from a

distance, might well cheat a traveller into the belief that he beheld a

fortified town. Wáki pointed it out to me, and said, jokingly, 'Perhaps

Christians live there.' The 'Indians of veracity,' so frequently quoted

in these accounts, who were, however, all bound to keep secret the

access to the city, doubtless confused their recollections of different

settlements visited in their migrations, and the Spaniards, prepared to

receive any new wonder, wove into the marvellous tale all the stories

told them, and regarded the joint fiction as undoubted fact. But two

more remarkable phases of this legend, and then we return to practical

Indian life. A military party, who set out in 1777 from Rio Bueno, and

marched to Lake Llanquechue, crossed the passes of the Cordillera under

Osorno, and passed the night near the snow line. They heard distant

artillery, and beheld the head of a great Laguna on the eastern side;

they brought back the astounding intelligence that two distinct towns

existed, one peopled by a race of Spanish origin, the Auca-Huincas, at

war with the Pehuelches; and the other by Englishmen, or Moro-Huincas,

who lived in amity with the Indians. And the Fiscal of Chili, in

his report, insisted strongly on the necessity of rooting out these

audacious islanders who had dared to plant themselves in the dominions

of 'our Lord the King.' Just as the jealous fear of the encroaching

English was thus mixed up in the Spanish version of the mysterious

Cesares, so the Indians connected them with the traditionary glories of

the great Inca race, and spoke of the Indian Cesares; and the potency

of the fable was shown by a proclamation put forth by the heroic and

ill-starred Tupac Amaru, who headed the unsuccessful rebellion against

the tyrant Christians in 1781, styling himself 'Inca, Señor de los

Cesares y Amazonas, con dominio en el Gran Paytiti.' But success mocked

his grasp, and he perished by the hand of the executioner, just as the

rich and coveted city whose lordship he claimed has eluded many an

explorer who has sacrificed his life in the hopeless search. But the

patient reader is probably weary of enchanted cities, and glad to return

to the daily routine of our Indian life, though it was at this time

butcherly enough. It was the all-important season of young guanaco

hunting; and though the chase afforded plenty of riding, it could hardly

be said to offer sport; but to the Indians it was a matter of business,

as their clothing and stock of skins to trade with depended on the

number of young guanaco killed at this time. Some notes of the habits of

the guanaco and rhea, or ostrich, which furnish the Patagonian Indians

with food and clothing, may not be out of place, though all critics

are warned that they are not those of a naturalist, but simply the

observations of a lover of birds and beasts.

The guanaco, known to the Indians as 'Nou,' is from three to four feet

in height, and from four to five in length, measured from the point of

the nostrils to the tail. The coat is woolly, but decreases in thickness

of wool, or rather becomes hairy, about the head and legs. Its colour is

of a yellowish red, intermixed with white in various parts of the body;

more especially under the abdomen, down the inside of the legs, and

round the lips and cheeks: the white also extends up the inside of the

neck and throat. The shoulder is slightly arched; the tail short, and

when the animal is in motion slightly elevated. The guanaco abounds over

a vast range of country, extending from Peru all down the regions east

of the range of the Cordillera of the Andes, over the vast plains from

Mendoza to the Straits of Magellan, and even to Tierra del Fuego. As a

rule, one male guanaco herds with a troop of about a hundred females,

and in the event of their being disturbed he will take up his position

on some neighbouring pinnacle of rock, and commence neighing something

after the fashion of a horse, keeping himself between the danger and

his wives. At the breeding season, however, the males go in flocks by

themselves, as do the females. Although it is stated in Monsieur Gay's

admirable book on the Zoology of Chili, that the females sometimes bear

three fawns, yet this must be a rare case: while we were hunting and

killing the young guanaco, the mothers invariably became separated, the

young ones lagging behind so as to prevent any appropriation of them to

their dams. However, during the time employed in killing the mothers

for the purpose of extracting the unborn young from the womb, I never

saw or heard of more than one fœtus being found. The guanacos are

excessively swift of foot, indeed almost unapproachable by horse or dog,

as a few buck leaps take them away far beyond the speed of a horse. They

frequently wait to allow a pursuer to approach close, and then bound

off, and speedily distance him. Their means of defence consist chiefly

in the savate, or use of the feet, more especially the fore ones,

although they also bite at times, and with their two peculiar canine

teeth could inflict a severe wound.[6] I have seen places where a puma

and a guanaco have evidently had a severe struggle, always, however,

resulting in the victory of the puma, as, on seeing these marks, we

invariably searched for and found the body near, carefully covered

over by the 'leon.' The flesh of the guanaco is excellent, something

resembling mutton; the young guanaco being more like very tender veal.

That their wool might be turned to account for mercantile purposes is

undoubted, as it is of very fine texture, and is at the present time of

value in Chili, where it is woven into ponchos, which are highly prized.

Up to the present time few have been domesticated, but they become very

tame, and might at a future date be found useful as beasts of burden,

as they are similar in most respects to the lama. There is one very

remarkable point about the guanaco: at certain times of the year a sort

of secretion, condensed into a hard substance like stone, is found in

round pieces, varying from ¼ to ½ inch in diameter, in the stomach.

To these stones some of the Indians attribute medicinal virtues. The

guanaco is of use to the Indians in every way. The skin of the adult

is used to make the coverings of the toldos, and that of the unborn or

young ones to make mantles for clothes; the sinews of the back furnish

them with thread; the skin of the neck, which is particularly tough and

durable, with lazos or thongs for bolas, bridles, &c., &c. The skin of

the hock supplies them with shoes or coverings for the bolas; from the

thigh bone they also cut out dice, or make a musical instrument. On

attaining the age of about two months, the coat of the young guanaco

begins to become woolly, and the skin is then useless for mantles, but

makes sufficiently good saddle cloths. The animal at this early age is

very swift of foot, and will give a good chase. They attain their full

size the second or third year after birth, and the adult male cannot be

better described than as apostrophised by Lieut. Gallegos. As we watched

a solitary guanaco standing on a hill above us, and every now and then

uttering its shrill warning neigh, 'Ah,' said Gallegos, 'you are a queer

animal; you have the neigh of a horse, the wool of a sheep, the neck of

a camel, the feet of a deer, and the swiftness of the devil.' The Rhea

Darwinii, called by the Indians 'Mekyush,' and by the Spaniards Avestrus

or Ostrich, which name is universally applied to it, is peculiar to

Patagonia, few being met with north of Rio Negro, and none being found

that I am aware of in any other part of the globe; with the exception,

perhaps, of the more northern and plain-like parts of Tierra del Fuego,

opposite the country extending from Cape Virgin to Oazy Harbour. It is

a variety of the Rhea Americana, common in the Argentine provinces of

Entre Rios and Santa Fé, also scattered over the Republic of the Banda

Oriental, and extending, I believe, as far north as Rio Grande do Sul

and the southern Brazilian province. They exist also in Chili, on the

plains at the foot of the Cordillera of the Andes. The chief difference

between these two species is that the Patagonian Rhea Darwinii is

smaller and of lighter colour than the American Rhea. The Patagonian

ostriches are very swift of foot, and run with their wings closed, while

the other species invariably spread theirs. The former birds also always

run in a straight line, except when leaving the nest, when probably, to

avoid being tracked, they run in a circuitous manner. Their plumage,

that is to say the wing feathers, are an object of commerce, and fetch

at present about a dollar a pound in Buenos Ayres. The marrow from

the leg bones is also, I believe, of use for making pomade, and was

formerly, if not at present, highly prized in Buenos Ayres. To the

Indian this bird is invaluable in many ways. Besides furnishing their

most favourite food, from the sinews of the leg thongs for bolas are

constructed; the neck is used as a pouch for salt or tobacco; the

feathers are exchanged for tobacco and other necessaries; the grease

from the breast and back is tried out and secured in bags formed of the

skin (taken off during the spring season, when the females, like all

the Patagonian animals except the puma, are thin); the meat is more

nourishing and more relished by the Indians than that of any other

animal in the country, and the eggs form a staple commodity of food

during the months of September, October, and November. The male bird

stands about 2½ feet high, and is to be distinguished from the female by

its being of a slightly darker colour, and of greater size and strength;

nevertheless, it requires a practised eye to detect the difference at

any distance. The male bird is also swifter. Their usual food consists

of short grass and the seeds of various shrubs, but more especially of

tender grass, which I have on several occasions watched them plucking,

from a convenient rock which hid me from their sight. On being alarmed

they immediately set off at a great speed; they possess great powers

of eyesight. If met or obstructed by horsemen in their line of flight,

they not unfrequently squat so closely that they can scarcely be

distinguished from the surrounding rocks, as the greyish colour of their

plumage so closely resembles the almost universal aspect of the Pampas

of Patagonia. These birds, though not web-footed, can swim sufficiently

well to pass a river. In the winter season it is not unfrequent for the

Indians to drive them into the water, where, their legs getting numbed

with cold, they are drifted to the shore by the current, and easily

captured, being unable to move. In snowy weather they are also easily

taken, as their eyes appear to be affected by the glare of the white

snow, and their saturated plumage doubtless becomes heavier. They are

polygamous, one male bird consorting with five or six hens, which

lay their eggs in the same nest--a hole about two feet six inches in

diameter, scooped out of the earth. They begin to lay in the early part

of September, the number of eggs in each nest varying from twenty to

as many as forty, or more. In the early part of the laying season

extraneous eggs were found scattered in different parts of the plain,

some of which were of diminutive size. Contrary to the usual rule

amongst birds, the male sits on the eggs, and when the chickens are

hatched assumes the charge of the brood. The young run immediately, or

shortly after emerging from the shell, and are covered with a down of

greyish black colour on the back, and whitish on the breast and neck.

Their cry resembles the syllables pi, pi, pi, uttered in a sharp, quick

manner. The old male, when any dangers appear, feigns to be hurt, like

other birds endeavouring to distract the attention of the hunter, in

order that his brood may escape by hiding in the grass. After the

male has sat for some time on the nest (I should place the period of

incubation at about three weeks), he gets thin, and the grass closely

surrounding the nest is found eaten quite bare. The females by this time

are beginning to pick up flesh, which is a fortunate provision of nature

for the Indians, who cannot subsist on lean meat. Whilst the females are

thin they are killed and skinned, the meat being left, and the skins

sewn into mantles for sale at the settlements. These birds at that

period are much afflicted with vermin, which invade the toldos and

guanaco mantles of the Indians, and cause them infinite annoyance.

(A useful hint occurs to me for future travellers amongst the

Patagonians--never allow the squaw of the establishment to place

ostrich mantles under your sleeping hides.) The young Rhea does not

attain its full plumage or size until the second year after its birth,

and is never pursued by the Indians unless food is really scarce. The

eggs are eaten in all stages, fresh or stale; the Indian not recognising

much difference between the unhatched chicken and the unborn guanaco.

The inveterate destroyers of these birds are, besides their human

enemies, the puma and foxes, the former of which will surprise and kill

the sitting bird, which he carefully hides, and then proceeds to eat the

eggs with great gusto. We not unfrequently found the eggs broken and

scattered by these animals, whilst the bird was generally discovered

hard by. The foxes, I think, content themselves with sucking the eggs;

but I was assured that near Geylum, where wild cats are common, these

latter will kill the bird on the nest, like their relatives the puma.

Besides these there are the condors, eagles, and hawks, which no

doubt commit extensive ravages on the young broods. With all these

difficulties to contend with, the Rhea Darwinii exists in great numbers,

and if not kept down to a certain extent by the Indians and other

enemies would overrun the whole country. We were, while at Chiriq,

busily engaged in the destruction of both guanaco and ostrich, the high

rugged range of hills that bounded Chiriq on the eastern side literally

swarming with guanaco; and as the females, heavy with young, could

not keep up their speed for a long distance, one man not unfrequently

captured and killed five and six, or even eight; extracting the young

and taking its skin for mantles and the carcase for food, while the hide

of the mother served, if needed, to repair the toldo. The marrow bones

also were taken as a dainty, but the meat was left for the condors,

puma, and foxes. We hunted almost every day, and traversed nearly all

the surrounding country. The plains lying to the west afforded beautiful

ground to ride over, covered with soft grass, but a few leagues from the

Cordillera a sudden dip occurs, which forms a huge basin, lying about 50

feet below the level of the plain, like the bed of a lake, and extending

to the mountains; the surface of this was chiefly covered with grass,

but in some parts the yellow clay and beds of stones were visible.

On the higher ground, before reaching this basin, numerous lagoons

occurred, round one of which there was a large gull-rookery, and the

inhabitants made themselves audible at a long distance. Here also I

noticed many of the teru-tero, a spur-winged lapwing, common near Buenos

Ayres. I had encountered them even as low as Santa Cruz, but never in

such large numbers. Our hunts on the plain were not so successful as

those on the hilly range, although in the previous year the Indians

asserted that the reverse had been the case. Perhaps the guanaco had

gained in experience, and felt themselves safer in the rocky heights

where riders were likely to get bad falls. The Northern Indians rode

most recklessly, going at full speed down the most precipitous places,

and, strange to say, although one or two accidents did occur resulting

in broken limbs, they were not numerous. This speaks volumes for the

sure footedness of their horses. It is their custom, when hunting

in rocky places, to place hide shoes on the horse's fore feet as a

safeguard against sharp stones. After hunting, it was the rule every

evening for those owning spare horses (and indeed for those who did not)

to repair to the race-course a little before sunset, and train or run

their horses, or look on at the others, and if there was a race, make

bets. The manner of racing is something similar to that in vogue amongst

the Gauchos in the provinces of Rio de la Plata, except that it is

generally conducted on principles of fair play. The stakes are always

deposited before the race comes off: if horses, they are tied out handy;

if ornaments, bolas, &c., &c., they are placed in a heap, the winners

removing them directly the race is decided. The horses are run

bare-backed, the two riders starting themselves after cantering side

by side for a few yards. Owing to the great care taken in training the

horses, very few false starts ever occur. The races are very often for

long distances, four miles or a league being the average, although, of

course, with young horses the distance is shorter. The Indian manner of

breaking colts is similar to that of the Gauchos; they are, however,

more gentle with their horses, and consequently break them better. One

rarely sees a horse amongst the Indians that is not perfectly quiet;

indeed, the smallest children are nearly always mounted on the racers

and best horses, although if a white man approaches or attempts to catch

them they show signs of fear and temper. Indeed, there appears to be a

sort of instinctive mutual bond between the Indians and their horses.

For lameness the cure most prevalent is bleeding in the fetlock with

an awl; sometimes the incision is made higher up the leg, and the awl

forced nearly through the horse's leg; he is then tied up for a short

time, and then let go, and the cure is generally certain. Of course

before the bleeding he is tied up several hours without water. The cure

for sore backs, which, though rare, sometimes occur owing to an ill-made

saddle, is a species of aluminous earth, applied to the wound after it

has been cleansed with a knife. This earth is only found in the southern

parts of the country, and it is very difficult to obtain any of this

much-prized medicine from the Indians. One deposit of it is found in a

cliff near Lake Viedma, so high that it can only be got at by throwing

stones at the face of the cliff, and so dislodging the earth.

[6] The skull of a guanaco is well figured in Mr. Cunningham's work.

A few lines will suffice to gratify any 'horsey-doggy' friends who may

be curious as to the horse flesh and dog shows of the Indians. The

horses in use amongst the Southern Indians are, as a rule, of a hardier

race than those found amongst the Northern, Araucanian, and Pampas

Indians. Their general size is about fifteen hands, or indeed perhaps

less, but nevertheless they are of great speed and endurance; when one

takes into consideration that the weight of their riders is frequently

over fourteen stone, it appears extraordinary that they should be

enabled to carry them in the way they do. The horses are, of course, all

of Spanish origin, but time, climate, and the different nature of the

country have altered them to a considerable degree from the original

race. The horses found amongst the Northern Tehuelches are, as a rule,

larger than those previously mentioned, with finer heads and smaller

legs; they are also extremely swift, and being bred frequently from

captured wild mares, are admirably adapted for hunting purposes. The

horse, however, most valued is the wild horse captured and tamed; these

differ from the others in being, as a rule, of larger size and superior

speed. This, I think, only applies to Northern Patagonia, as I have

in other parts seen wild horses which in no way equalled those in

captivity. The horses vary in colour, those captured from the wild herds

generally being a dark bay, black, or brown. Near Port San Julian, I am

informed that there are numbers of wild ponies, about the size and make

of a shelty, which the children play with. The horses are entirely grass

fed, and in consequence of the dry nature of the pasture in the winter

season, and the subsequent hard treatment, they generally get very thin

in the spring time of the year, but soon pick up condition when given

a few days' rest, and allowed to feed on the fresh pasture. The dogs

generally in use amongst the Patagonian Indians vary considerably both

in size and species. First of all comes a sort of lurcher (smooth

haired), bred by the Indians from some obtained in the Rio Negro, the

mothers being a description of mastiff, with the muzzle, however, much

sharper than that of a mastiff proper; they are also very swift, and

have longer and lower bodies. Our chief, Orkeke, kept his breed of

this dog, which probably had been derived from the earlier Spanish

settlements, pure; and they were, for hunting purposes, the best I

saw, running both by scent and view.

Another description of dog observed had long woolly hair, and indeed

much resembled an ordinary sheep dog. These were passably common amongst

the Indians, but most of the dogs used in the chase--which are nearly

all castrated--are so mixed in race as to defy specification. I heard of

a dog captured from some Fuegians, which was very swift, and answered

perfectly to our description of harrier. These Fuegians are probably

those known as the 'Foot' Indians, who, by those who have descended on

their coasts, have been observed to use dogs for hunting purposes.

Casimiro informed me that Quintuhual's people formerly hunted on foot,

with a large sort of dog, which, from his description, must have

resembled a deer hound. The dogs are rarely fed, being allowed generally

to satiate themselves in the chase. The hounds belonging to Orkeke, and

one or two others, were exceptions to this rule, being fed with cooked

meat when it was plentiful. The women keep pet lap dogs of various

descriptions, generally a sort of terrier, some of them much resembling

the Scotch terrier. 'Ako,' for instance, was to all appearance a

thoroughbred dog of that breed. These little lap dogs are the torment

of one's life in camp: at the least sound they rush out yelping, and set

all the big dogs off; and in an Indian encampment at night, when there

is anything stirring, a continual concert of bow-wows is kept up. The

dogs are fierce towards strangers, but generally content themselves with

surrounding them, showing their teeth and barking, unless set on. That

they are ugly customers at night an amusing instance will prove. One

morning a dog was found dead near its owner's toldo, which had evidently

been knocked on the head with a bola, and finished with a knife;

the owner made a great outcry, but no explanation could be had. It

subsequently became known to me that a young gallant had sought

admission to the toldo of his innamorata by the accustomed method of

cautiously lifting the back tent cover from the ground, and dexterously

crawling underneath; when half through, he felt his leg seized in a pair

of powerful jaws. The lady was highly amused at the predicament of her

lover, who, however, extricated himself by a mighty and well-directed

kick with his foot in the muzzle of his assailant. When returning from

his 'rendezvous' he met his active enemy, and vindictively knocked him

on the head, and, to make sure work, cut his throat; but his leg carried

after all a deeper scar than his heart as a token of the love-adventure,

and when the story was told, and, as may be supposed, excited roars of

laughter, it recalled forcibly to my mind,

'He jests at scars who never felt a wound.'

Our camp at Chiriq presented quite the appearance of a town of toldos,

and fresh arrivals were still expected from the S.W.; but the Indians

of the latter party, with whom we had not yet made acquaintance, sent a

chasqui with an invitation to Crimè to join their party, and a message

that they would ultimately meet us at Teckel. Accordingly, Crimè, who

was now rich in horses and gear, having received many presents, bid

us adieu, and set off with an imposing cavalcade. Poor fellow! he had

better have remained with us, as the sequel will show.

The weather during the first weeks of our stay in Chiriq was warm and

fine, but latterly the wind veered round to the west, and it changed to

sleet and cold rain, and the normal Patagonian climate. The humour of

the Indians seemed as variable, for old Orkeke grew exceedingly jealous.

Jackechan often used to lend me a horse on the hunting excursions, and

Orkeke one day asked me in a sullen manner whether I wished to change my

toldo, and go with my friend. My reply that I had no wish to do so at

present quieted him for the time, and he immediately offered me one of

his best horses for the next day, which was a real treat. I am afraid I

rather abused his generosity, as we had a great day chasing large herds

of guanaco, and with a racer for a mount, one was induced to ride

furiously. On the 20th of November it was decided to break up the camp

and divide into two parties to hunt, it being considered that our united

numbers were too great for successful hunting in one place. When all

were packing up and preparing to start, a row nearly broke out between

two of our old party: indeed it was with the greatest difficulty, and

only through the intervention of Casimiro, Hinchel, and two or three

more, that blood was not spilt. Of course, if the fight had commenced

between these two, such is the excitability of the Indians that it would

soon have become a general battle. This, and a heavy shower of rain

coming, prevented our march, so the women unpacked, and horses were let

go again. Some few Indians started to hunt, but came back shortly almost

empty handed, fairly beaten by the driving sleet and snow. During our

stay most of us had refitted all our gear, and were well provided with

bolas; many were the necks of guanaco stripped to obtain the hide for

them, and for making 'manêos' (straps for securing horses' legs), whips,

cinctas (girths), lazos, &c., &c. The work that I preferred was plaiting

ostrich sinews for thongs for the ostrich bolas. The ostrich sinews are

abstracted by dislocating the lower joint of the leg, the first sinew is

then pulled out by hand, and the others drawn out by main force, using

the leg bone as a handle. This bone is then separated from the foot, and

the sinews left adhering to the foot; they are slightly dried in the

sun, after which the extracted bone is used to separate the fibres by

drawing it sharply up the sinews. When sufficiently separated they are

cut off from the foot, split into equal sizes and lengths, and laid in a

moist place to soften; when sufficiently soft they are made into thongs,

cooked brains being used to make them more pliable, and lie better in

the plaits. These thongs are plaited in four plaits (round sinnet) well

known to every sailor, but the ends are doubled in a peculiar manner,

which requires practice to manage well. Before leaving Chiriq another

disturbance was nearly taking place, caused by one of the Chilians

quitting Tchang's toldo, and joining that of a man commonly called

Santa Cruz, an Indian well known at Patagones, and allowed a ration

of mares from the Government. Tchang, immediately on hearing of his

departure, put on his revolver and collared the Chilian's horse. To this

Santa Cruz objected, but Tchang kept the horse, and, revolver in hand,

defied anybody's claim to it. After this little incident the camp was

broken up, and the two parties divided--Hinchel marching S.W. and our

party to the N.W.

After a very cold and hungry march in the face of a bitterly piercing

wind, we encamped on the shores of a lagoon of some extent, called

'Hoshelkaik,' which signifies 'Windy-hill,' and certainly is worthy of

its name; for during our stay a succession of S.W. winds blew with great

violence. After our arrival a small boy cut his finger, and, according

to custom, a mare was killed. Some of the meat sent to our toldo was

thankfully received, as we were all half starved. Having strolled

through the camp and visited Cayuke's toldo, I found that Casimiro

had not arrived, having started, to my great disgust, with the party

travelling to the S.W., and taken with him a specially good horse, which

he had given me in exchange for a revolver. I was, however, glad to find

that Jackechan, the Pampa chief, was there, and we had a confabulation

and smoke together. On the 23rd, the previous day having been too rough,

the Indians started to hunt the enclosing grassy basin before mentioned

as existing at the foot of the mountains. Immense herds of guanaco

were driven down, and being encircled by men and fires the sport soon

commenced. The Tehuelches had for some reason set light to the grass in

every available part, and the wind rising to a furious gale, the fires

soon spread and joined in an advancing line. Jackechan, myself, and

several other Indians were in the centre of the circle, each employed in

skinning the guanaco we had already killed, when suddenly we found that

we were encircled in flame and smoke, and that if we did not want to

be well scorched we had better look out for means of exit. Leaving our

game, we galloped at the spot where the smoke appeared thinnest, but

after riding three or four minutes with our faces covered up, found an

impassable barrier of flame; so, half-maddened with the hot sand dashed

in our eyes by the gale, and nearly suffocated with smoke, we galloped

down the line of flame to a spot where, the grass being stunted, we

managed to get through without injury, although our horses' legs were

singed a little. We were very thankful to breathe pure air, though

the atmosphere was still thick with smoke, and nothing could be

distinguished of valley or anything else. Jackechan, with unerring

Indian instinct, led the way to a stream of water, where we were able to

drink and wash some of the hot sand out of our eyes. After a quarter of

an hour's rest and a smoke, as the flames had passed on, we determined

to ride back over the still smoking ground, and endeavour to discover

the bodies of our guanaco. We accordingly emerged from the hollow, where

we had sheltered ourselves, and once more plunged into the thick of the

driving smoke and heated sand: holding our mantles over our eyes, we

penetrated the murky atmosphere till Jackechan discovered two of his

animals; but as they were both roasted, or rather burned, and ourselves

and horses were nearly suffocated, we beat a hasty retreat. I was very

thankful when at length, ascending a steep declivity, we emerged at the

top into the pure air. 'Ah!' said Jackechan, looking down on the plains

still full of smoke, 'it has been a rough time, but "we are men, not

women," though we were fools to remain to the last.' I fully agreed with

him in this, as my eyes still smarted very painfully. How he found his

way through the smoke was perfectly inexplicable to me: if I had been

alone, my travels would have been concluded then and there. Towards the

evening of this eventful day the wind abated in violence, and during the

night snow fell, and all the ensuing day there were passing squalls of

white water or snow, and furious blasts of wind. About this time I came

to the conclusion that summer was unknown in these regions, and that

the Patagonian year consisted of two seasons--a hard winter and a bad

spring. The Indians, however, declared that the climate had grown

colder during the last two years. On the 28th of November we broke up

camp and marched to a valley situated under one spur of the wooded

hills, previously mentioned as bounding the northern side of the

valley--killing some young guanaco by the way. I was astonished on

galloping up to two to find they did not run away at first, although

their mothers had already gone, and taken up a position on a rocky

eminence some distance off. Whilst watching them, however, and

meditating on the necessity and cruelty of killing them, the two little

things started off; so, as my mantle was fast losing its beautiful

appearance, I put compunction on one side, and shortly killed them with

a blow on the head. On arriving at the fire where some of the Indians

were collected eating ostriches, I was proceeding to take the skins off,

when Tankelow, who presided, stopped me, saying that we would skin

them in the toldos, where the blood would be a treat to the women and

children. We accordingly reserved the luxury, and after a feed crossed a

small stream and piece of marsh, beyond which lay the encampment, where

the women soon verified Tankelow's words. Though the flesh of the young

guanaco is rather tasteless and soft, the blood has a sweeter taste than

that of the adult. The rennet, or milk, which is found curdled into a

sort of cheese in the intestines, is also eaten with gusto. The most

laborious part of young guanaco hunting consists in taking off the skin,

which, after the necessary incisions have been made with a knife, has to

be taken off by hand, the thumb being used to separate the hide from

the body. The calves, when three days old, run at about the speed of a

horse's hand gallop, but sometimes give longer chases. The Indian plan

is to kill them with a blow on the head from a ball, and then pass on to

another, and so on, afterwards returning to collect them in a heap and

skin them. After the hide is taken off it is necessary to expose it to

the air for a few minutes before folding it up, otherwise it is liable

to get heated, and will tear easily in the subsequent processes. We

hunted in the neighbourhood of Jeroshaik, or 'Bad Hill,' several times,

with varying success, sometimes proceeding up into the wooded hills,

where the timber in some places grew in clumps, as if planted by the

hand of man; in others filled up the rocky dells, until the main

forests were reached, which appeared to extend far into the Cordillera.

Most of the trees were of a species of beech, on which were many small

edible fungi, some of which we gathered for use; and traces of red deer

were frequently seen, and a few were chased by the Indians, but owing

to the thickness of the wood they escaped. Some of the Indians took the

opportunity to cut fresh poles for the toldos. The sight of woods and

trees was so refreshing that I spent several days consecutively amongst

them, very often alone, or with one companion. Nobody, except a sailor

after months on the sea, can imagine the pleasure of wandering under

trees to one who had passed so long a time in the barren and monotonous

plains. The weather, however, still continued wet and inclement. On

the 5th of December, some of us wandering on the heights above, made

out smoke to the N.E., and Campan went off at speed on horseback to

reconnoitre. He returned towards nightfall very drunk, and riding

straight to our toldo, proclaimed that El Sourdo, the Indian left

behind in Santa Cruz, had arrived at a place close to us, bringing

grog in two small barrels, and letters for me: when he had delivered

his news, he, with some difficulty, dismounted without coming on his

head; then produced a bottle half full of rum from under his mantle,

which he dispensed to the attendant company.

Our toldo was soon crowded, and it was proposed that on the following

day we should march and meet the visitor, all being eager for a drink.

Accordingly, on the morrow we started, in a storm of sleet and rain, and

prepared to hunt _en route_. While hunting, just after Jackechan and

myself had killed an ostrich, the former perceived a single toldo, which

he knew must be El Sourdo's, so we galloped towards it, accompanied by

two other Indians, and were received with open arms by El Sourdo and his

two wives, Jackechan being a very old friend. We were made to sit down,

and the olla, or boiling-pot, was brought out by the two wives, who

acted as Hebes by producing the rum, with which our host filled the pot,

and dispensed the liquor in a pannikin. One of the wives then produced

my letters, which proved to be from Mr. Clarke and Don Luiz P. B., the

schooner having arrived on October 5, all safe. El Sourdo then gave me

all the news verbatim--how a fight had taken place at the settlement

between Gonzalez and Antonio, in which the latter had been killed or

mortally wounded, and the former had escaped to the Pampas, but had

subsequently been captured and taken as a prisoner in the schooner to

Buenos Ayres; and other news of trivial importance. Meanwhile the grog

was fast disappearing, and the pot had to be replenished. This in turn

was about half-emptied by the time the other Indians and women arrived,

and Jackechan, very inebriated, was vowing eternal friendship to me,

while Tchang was howling in my other ear a lovely Tehuelche ditty. As I

had drunk in moderation, I thought it about time to clear, so, on the

plea of looking after my horse, retired and re-read my letters, which

anyone may imagine, although not coming from my relations, were of great

interest. After my departure no more liquor was given away, El Sourdo

selling two bottles for a young horse or a silver-sheathed knife, so

that he soon found himself a rich man. By midnight all the liquor

was exhausted and many drunk, but no disturbances occurred worthy of

mention, all arms having previously been stowed away safely. I was

roused from my first sleep by a lady from a neighbouring toldo, who

wished to embrace me, and, with feminine curiosity, wanted to know the

contents of my letters. She was, I am sorry to say, in an advanced stage

of intoxication, so after giving her a smoke, Orkeke, who had roused

up and was dying of laughter, politely showed her the door. Most of

the party went out hunting in the morning, the ride no doubt proving

beneficial to those suffering from headache, though little game was

killed; but the Sourdo, whom I had joined in a morning bowl of coffee,

remained at home, as his horses were very much used up, one of his boys

going on a friend's mount to procure meat. For four days after this

drinking bout we did nothing but slaughter and eat mares, somebody's

child having been slightly hurt in some manner. Although I have read in

various books that the Indians have a religious festival at which mares

are slaughtered as a sacrifice to the Deity at a certain time of the

year, I never saw anything of it. Whenever this sort of sacrificial

feast took place, there was always a special occasion for it--either a

death, or a child hurt, or some escape from a danger, when the animals

are killed as a thank-offering. Rather tired of remaining so long in one

place, on the 12th we marched due north across the plain, which was

called 'Gisk,' and encamped under a hill covered with trees, and the

sides furrowed with small gullies, densely filled with vegetation

and shrubs of two or three species. Here there were plants of the

description of potatoes before mentioned, but growing very deep in such

unfavourable ground that few were extracted. On the hill sides a plant

bearing a yellow flower grew in abundance, the leaf of which, the

Chilians informed me, was an excellent remedy for wounds and bruises,

and much used in Chili. Four days' hunting took place here, at the end

of which Orkeke, who had some story that the Pampas had been stealing

a march by hunting at night, and was rather disgusted at his continual

ill-success, proposed that we should separate, and in company with the

toldos of Tchang, go westward to a plain below the higher mountains,

which he stated to be abounding in guanaco. He also proposed a trip into

the Cordillera in search of wild cattle. This plan was eagerly approved,

as I anticipated persuading him, if possible, to penetrate to the

Chilian shores of the Pacific. We accordingly set out on our travels,

but had not gone far before a frightful storm of wind, sleet, and rain

set in, which wetted us all completely. We huddled for shelter under a

bush for some time, but as it continued there was nothing for it but to

push on, and about 3 P.M. the weather cleared up; we then entered a glen

with a wooded stream running down it, expanding higher up into an open

plain. A short distance up the valley the intended camping-ground lay,

so a small circle was made, in which some ostriches and guanaco were

killed. We then adjourned across the river under the trees, and soon

had a roaring fire blazing, by the side of which we dried ourselves and

cooked our dinner. A more romantic-looking spot than this I was never

in. On the other side of the stream was a mass of grey rocks, half hid

by shrubs, from amongst which here and there a dead tree stood up. On

one side the grass was beautifully green, and the trees were growing in

scattered round clumps a few yards apart; doves were cooing in their

branches, and young ostriches were running about. These, I am sorry to

say, were caught by the horsemen, who jumped down and secured them:

hunger had no scruples, and two furnished a good meal for each wet

and starving traveller. Despite our ducking, we were soon all in high

spirits, and some of us, before going back to the toldos, proceeded to

search for wild potatoes, a few of which we brought back. The following

morning the sun rose bright, with a clear sky, so we continued our march

in a westerly direction, arriving about mid-day at a gorge amongst the

wooded hills, where I hoped that we were going to encamp; the women,

however, diverged to the northward, and proceeding up a ravine or cañon

in the barranca of the high pampa, pitched the toldos in a gloomy,

prison-like spot. Melancholy as it seemed to me, it afforded abundant

pasture for the horses, which between the hills was scarce, so that they

were inclined to wander into the woods and be hard to find when wanted,

which undoubtedly was the reason of our taking the cañon in preference

to the wooded valley. This cañon, a little beyond our camp, divided into

two, in one of which was a laguna frequented by avocets. The stream,

which in spring poured down the glen, presented only an occasional pool

and a dry bed, in which were numbers of rounded white stones of chalky

substance, supplying capital materials for bolas, easily reduced to the

suitable form: it also occurred to me that the chips pounded to powder

might have the curative effects of chalk mixture, as diarrhœa had

affected some of the party, and the result of the medicinal experiment

was satisfactory, though it was impossible to prevail on the Indians to

try the remedy. Whilst the women were pitching toldos, the men, eight

in number, started to hunt again. Riding to the west, where the plain

was still open, we came upon another of the huge basins previously

described, on the western side of which, beyond a lagoon stocked with

waterfowl, flowed a broad winding stream fringed with trees. At a short

distance from the other side of the stream open glades extended for the

space of perhaps a mile to the verge of the interminable forests, rising

high up on the lofty sides of mountains, some of whose summits were

still partially snow-clad. To the south were two or three round detached

hummocks, hardly deserving the name of hills, crowned with trees. In

the foreground were immense herds of guanaco, and on the northern side

frowned a high range of arid-looking hills, forming a great contrast to

the deliciously-refreshing green aspect of the other points of view.

Whilst waiting concealed behind a bush for the coming herd, which had

been cunningly encircled by Tchang and another Indian, and were to be

driven in our direction, we gazed long at the beautiful view before us,

and Orkeke pointed out a mountain some distance to the north, underneath

which, he said, was the entrance to the scene of our future campaign

against the wild cattle. Towards evening we returned to the toldos,

pretty well loaded with skins. On another occasion, when hunting, we

made a circle, finishing off in the wooded district near the banks

of the river. On our return we hunted over a park-like country, with

alternate open glades and woods. Here we killed a doe red deer and a

large description of fox, apparently identical with the Falkland Island

species (Lupus antarcticus). In the vicinity of the woods, the velvety

sward was carpeted with the wild strawberry plants, which, however, were

only in bloom. On this occasion our enjoyment was marred by one of the

party getting a severe fall, which laid him up for a day or two. Before

we reached the toldos rain set in heavily, which during the night turned

to snow, and the morning sun shone on a white landscape. During our stay

the women went to the woods to cut fresh poles for the toldos, and the

men brought back from the wooded country a description of fungus, which,

when dried, forms an excellent tinder, of considerable value amongst

the Indians, as there are only a few spots where it is to be obtained.

After some days spent in this pleasant neighbourhood, as the supply of

guanaco was failing, we marched over the barren range of hills, and

passing a lagoon of considerable extent below the hills, encamped on

the other side of them, by the side of a smaller one, in a place called

'Gogomenykaik.'

During the hunt I had singled out a guanaco, and was in full chase

across the upper pampa, which was covered with stunted bushes and tufts

of grass, when the quarry suddenly disappeared, as if the earth had

swallowed him. The next moment my horse halted in mid-gallop, with

its fore feet on the edge of a precipitous descent which shelved away

without any warning. Below was a long beautiful glen, with a pool of

water glistening among the trees which filled it, but did not rear their

topmost boughs above the level of the pampa. Here the guanaco had taken

refuge, and as the descent was impracticable for a horse, I could only

gaze longingly down into the fairy-like scene, and turn away to join the

circle, remembering that it was only too easy to lose oneself by delay.

Of this an instance occurred the same day, for one of the Chilians did

not appear at the fireside when the hunting was completed. At first

no heed was bestowed on him, as it was natural to suppose that he had

chased a herd of guanaco to some distance, and was detained taking off

the skins; but when at sunset he was still missing, some dry grass was

fired, for the purpose of directing him to our camp. The following

morning he had not appeared when we started to hunt, myself going as

pointsman with Orkeke. We galloped for some distance over the plain,

and halted in a hollow, where we came on six young skunks outside their

parental burrow, into which they quickly vanished on our dismounting;

but as their burrows do not penetrate far, Orkeke soon grubbed out a

couple. As they were too small to kill for the value of their skins, and

too much trouble to carry home as pets for the children, we set them

free again, and I proceeded, leaving Orkeke to pursue his way slowly. A

slight rise brought me in front of a rocky hill, on the other side of

which was a river with wooded banks, across the valley of which river

lay my route. I at first considered it to be the same as that seen in

the previous encampment, but on reflection it was plainly another, this

flowing north-east, whilst the other took a south-west course. Our hunt

progressed very fairly. On closing the circle, one of the Chilians, who

was running a guanaco with me, and not expert in the use of the bolas,

entangled his horse and himself instead of the chase, which lost him his

spoils, and caused much merriment amongst the remainder of the party;

although I may as well state here that when a horse gets a ball round

his legs or under his tail, it is not much of a joking matter for the

rider. On our way back to camp, halting by a spring, we found large

quantities of wild celery; nettles were also common--the real old

English white-flowering one being prevalent. Although my bare legs got

considerably stung, I forgot to swear in Tehuelche, and forgave the

plant for old acquaintance sake. At the toldos we found the Chilian, who

had arrived recently, having run a herd some distance and lost his way,

but had been safely directed by our signal fires. In the afternoon some

of the party were occupied in breaking their horses, while others were

sitting at home lazily watching the performance. Conde's step-father,

generally known as 'Paliki,' had a three-year-old iron grey, with a

white star, and a very fine animal, tied up ready to be mounted for the

first time. Paliki entered our toldo to borrow my cincta, or girth, and

chaffed me, asking if I would venture to 'domar' him. Orkeke seconded

the proposal, and accordingly, having stripped off mantle and boots, I

proceeded to take the lazo and reins and mount. The instant he felt the

unwonted incumbrance he buck-jumped for several yards, finally jumping

into the middle of the brook and nearly losing his footing. I spurred

him out, and once on the bank he commenced to whirl round and round

like a teetotum. At last I got his head straight, and after a few more

buck-jumps he went off at racing speed, urged by whip and spur. After a

stretching gallop of three miles, I rode him quietly back, now and again

turning him to accustom him to the bridle-thong, but not venturing to

feel his mouth, and then brought him up to the toldo amidst the shouts

of the spectators. Orkeke expressed great surprise, and wanted to know

where I had learned to 'domar'; and the gratified owner insisted on

presenting me with a piece of tobacco. This was most welcome, as my

store was almost exhausted, though it had been replenished occasionally

by the possessors of guns and revolvers in return for my services in

putting the locks to rights; and the fear of being left tobaccoless--the

agony of which all smokers will appreciate--was becoming unpleasantly

strong. The following day we bade adieu to the lagoon, which, as usual,

was covered with swans and other wild fowl, which we never molested,

husbanding our powder in the event of future disturbances with other

Indians. We marched a few miles, and encamped near the river--indeed, on

its very banks, under the shadows of the trees. Here we passed our time

away hunting, bathing in the stream, smoking, and lying in the shade for

three days. One of my horses being lame, I could not hunt every day, so

frequently passed hours under the trees by the river, scrubbing my one

remaining shirt for future use, and working hide, &c. As writing in

the toldo was made almost impossible by the curiosity of the children,

crowding round me and asking questions, I generally used to take my

note-book to my retreat; here, however, I was often interrupted by the

girls, who came on the pretence of bathing, and evinced great playful

curiosity as to the contents of my book--for here, too, I used to peruse

and re-peruse my library, namely, half of the delightful 'Elsie Venner,'

which Crimè had picked up on board some ship to serve as wadding for his

guns, and sold to me for a little powder. To enable the reader to follow

our somewhat devious course and the intricacies of these hills and

frequent rivers, the sketch map at page 156 will be found useful; it

does not pretend to be exact, but gives a very fair idea of the line of

country traversed and of our migrations between Henno and Teckel.

On the 23rd, Indians having been seen to the north and guanaco hunting

proving a failure, Orkeke, to my great delight, proposed a visit to the

wild cattle country. The camp was accordingly struck, and following more

or less the valley of the river, which flowed after one turn nearly due

east, we shortly came out into an open plain running up between the

mountains, at the head of which we encamped by some tall beeches on the

banks of the stream. The whole of the latter part of the plain traversed

was literally carpeted with strawberry plants all in blossom, the soil

being of a dark peaty nature. Young ostriches were now numerous, and

every hunt some were captured and formed a welcome addition to our

dinner. The children had several alive as pets, which they used to

let loose and then catch with miniature bolas, generally ending in

killing them. Our programme was to leave all the women, toldos, and

other encumbrances in this spot, named 'Weekel,' or Chaykash--a

regular station, and which Hinchel's party had occupied a few weeks

previously--and proceed ourselves into the interior in search of cattle.

The following morning at daylight horses were caught and saddled, and,

after receiving the good wishes of the women, who adjured us to bring

back plenty of fat beef, we started off just as the sun was rising

behind the hills to the eastward. The air was most invigorating, and we

trotted along for some distance up a slightly irregular and sandy slope,

halting after an hour or two by the side of a deliciously clear brook,

flowing east, where we smoked. We had previously passed guanaco and

ostrich, but no notice was taken of them, the Indians having larger game

in view. After passing this brook, the head water of the river near

which we had left the toldos, we skirted a large basin-like plain of

beautiful green pasture, and after galloping for some time entered the

forest, travelling along a path which only permitted us to proceed in

Indian file. The trees were in many places dead, not blackened by fire,

but standing up like ghostly bleached and bare skeletons. It is a

remarkable fact that all the forests on the eastern side are skirted by

a belt of dead trees. At length, however, just as we came in sight of

a curiously pointed rock which in the distance resembled the spire of

a church, we entered the forest of live trees; the undergrowth was

composed of currant, bay, and other bushes, whilst here and there were

beds of yellow violets, and the inevitable strawberry plants everywhere.

After crossing a stream which, flowing from the north, afterwards

took a westerly course, thus proving that we had passed the watershed,

we proceeded, under cover of a huge rock, to reconnoitre the hunting

ground. The scenery was beautiful: a valley, about a mile wide,

stretched directly under us; on the southern verge a silver line marked

the easterly river, and another on the northern the one debouching in

the Pacific; whilst above, on both sides, rose high mountains covered

with vegetation and almost impenetrable forests. On the western side of

the valley a solitary bull was leisurely taking his breakfast, and above

our look-out rock a huge condor lazily flapped his wings. These were

the only specimens of animal life in view. Pursuing our way in perfect

silence, as from the first entrance into the forests speaking had been

prohibited, we followed the leader along the narrow cattle path, passing

here and there the remains of a dead bull or cow that had met their fate

by the Indians' lazo, and at length descended to the plain. It was about

mid-day, and the day was warm, so we halted, changed horses, looked to

our girths, got lazos ready for use, and then started on. As we were

proceeding we observed two or three animals amongst the woods on the

opposite side, but knowing that it would be useless to follow, pursued

our course up the valley. Having crossed the western stream, we at once

entered a thicket where the path was scarcely distinguishable from the

cover, but our leader never faltered, and led the way through open

glades alternating with thick woods, on every side of which were cattle

marks, many being holes stamped out by the bulls, or wallowing places.

The glades soon terminated in forests, which seemed to stretch unbroken

on either side. We had expected before reaching this point to have found

cattle in considerable numbers, but the warmth of the day had probably

driven them into the thickets to seek shelter. We now commenced to

ascend over a dangerous path, encumbered here and there with loose

boulders and entangled in dense thickets, whilst we could hear and catch

occasional glimpses of the river foaming down a ravine on our left, and

presently arrived at the top of a ridge where the forests became more

uniformly dense, and we could with great difficulty pursue our way. It

was a mystery to me how Orkeke, who acted as guide, knew where we were,

as on one occasion the slightly-marked paths diverged in different

directions, and on another we literally found ourselves amongst fallen

trees in a forest so dense that the light of day scarcely penetrated its

shades. Our leader, however, never hesitated, but led us onwards in all

confidence. Whilst brushing along, if I may be allowed the term, trying

to keep the leader in sight, I heard something tapping on a tree, and

looking up, saw close above me a most beautifully marked red crested

woodpecker. We at length commenced to descend, and, after passing many

channels of rivulets issuing from springs, where a slip of the horse's

foot on the wet and mossy stones would have occasioned something worse

than broken bones, as they were situated on the edge of a deep ravine,

finally emerged from the woods and found ourselves on a hill of some

three hundred feet in height, whence we looked down on a broad plain in

the form of a triangle, bounded by the river flowing through the ravine

on the north side, and on the southern by another coming from the south,

which two streams united in one large river at the western apex, at

a distance of about perhaps a league. Above and around, on all sides

excepting to the west and the ravines through which the rivers flowed,

rose the unbroken wall of the lofty mountains of the Cordillera, many of

their peaks snow-clad. No sound was to be heard except the rushing of

the river in the ravine, and no animal life to be seen except a condor

or two floating high above us in the clear sky. The scene was sublime,

and I viewed it in silence for some minutes, till the pipe, being handed

to me, dispelled all nascent poetic tendencies. The Indians remained

silent and looked disgusted, as a herd of cattle had been expected to be

viewed on the plain below. We descended to the flats, and crossed the

river, on the banks of which 'Paja' or Pampa grass grew in abundance,

as well as the bamboo-like canes from which Araucanian Indians make

their lance shafts, and a plant called by the Chilians 'Talka,' the

stalk of which, resembling rhubarb, is refreshing and juicy. On the

northern edges and slope of the ravine behind us towered graceful pines

60 feet high, which, though an impassable barrier of rock prevented

close inspection, appeared to be a species of Araucaria: the bark was

imbricated, and the stems rose bare of branches for two-thirds of their

height, like those figured by M. Gay. Many had been carried down by

landslips, and lay tossed and entangled on the sides of the ravine.

The increase of temperature after passing the watershed was sensibly

great, amounting to from 7 to 10 degrees, and the vegetation far more

luxuriant, the plants presenting many new forms unknown at the eastern

side. After leaving the plain and crossing the shallow stream, we left

our mantles, and girthed up near a tree in a thicket festooned with a

beautiful creeper, having a bell-shaped flower of violet radiated with

brown. The variety of flowers made an Eden of this lovely spot: climbing

clusters of sweet peas, vetches, and rich golden flowers resembling

gorgeous marigolds, and many another blossom, filled the air with

perfume and delighted the eye with their beauty. Proceeding still

westward we entered a valley with alternate clumps of trees and green

pastures, and after riding about a mile I espied from a ridge on one

side of the valley two bulls on the other side, just clear of the thick

woods bordering the ascent of the mountains. The word was passed in

whispers to the cacique, and a halt being called under cover of some

bushes, a plan of attack was arranged in the following manner. Two men

were sent round to endeavour to drive the animals to a clearing, where

it would be possible to use the lazo, the remainder of the party

proceeding down towards the open ground with lazos, ready to chase

if the bulls should come that way. For a few minutes we remained

stationary, picking the strawberries, which in this spot were ripe,

although the plants previously met with were only in flower. At the end

of five minutes spent in anxiously hoping that our plan would prove

successful, a yell from the other side put us on the alert, and we had

the gratification to see one of the animals coming straight towards our

cover. Alas! just as we were preparing to dash out, he turned on the

edge of the plain, and after charging furiously at his pursuer dashed

into a thicket, where he stood at bay. We immediately closed round him,

and dismounting, I advanced on foot to try and bring him down with the

revolver; just as I had got within half-a-dozen paces of him, and behind

a bush was quietly taking aim at his shoulder, the Indians, eager for

beef, and safe on their horses at a considerable distance off, shouted,

'Nearer! Nearer!' I accordingly stepped from my cover, but had hardly

moved a pace forward when my spur caught in a root: at the same moment

'El Toro' charged. Entangled with the root, I could not jump on one side

as he came on; so when within a yard I fired a shot in his face, hoping

to turn him, and wheeled my body at the same instant to prevent his

horns from catching me, as the sailors say, 'broadside on.' The shot did

not stop him, so I was knocked down, and, galloping over me, he passed

on with my handkerchief, which fell from my head, triumphantly borne on

his horns, and stopped a few yards off under another bush. Having picked

myself up and found my arms and legs all right, I gave him another shot,

which, as my hand was rather unsteady, only took effect in the flank.

My cartridges being exhausted, I returned to my horse and found that,

besides being considerably shaken, two of my ribs had been broken by the

encounter.

[Illustration: A WILD BULL IN THE CORDILLERA.]

The Indians closed round me, and evinced great anxiety to know whether I

was much hurt. One more courageous than the rest, despite the warnings

of the cacique, swore that he would try and lazo the brute, and

accordingly approached the infuriated animal, who for a moment or two

showed no signs of stirring: just, however, as the Indian was about to

throw his lazo it caught in a branch, and before he could extricate it

the bull was on him. We saw the horse give two or three vicious kicks

as the bull gored him: at length he was lifted clean up, the fore legs

alone remaining on the ground, and overthrown, the rider alighting on

his head in a bush. We closed up and attracted the bull in another

direction, then went to look for the corpse of our comrade, who,

however, to our surprise, issued safe from the bush, where he had lain

quiet and unhurt, though the horse was killed. This little incident cast

a gloom over our day's pleasure, and lost us our Christmas dinner, as

Orkeke ordered a retreat to the spot where we had left our mantles,

although we tried to persuade him to attack the beast again, or, at any

rate, remain and eat some of the dead horse, and try our luck next day,

but he was inflexible. So having regained our spare horses we prepared

to return home, hoping to be able to pass through the forests before

nightfall. On our way across the plain previously described, wild cattle

were seen and one chased; but he, although balled by Orkeke, contrived

to slip the bolas, and escaping to cover stood to bay, where he was

left master of the field. This bull would have been taken had the other

Indians showed any degree of alacrity when Orkeke balled him; but they

were dispirited by the previous failure. As evening was coming on I

noticed a cormorant on the river: this and the increase of temperature

led me to believe that had we penetrated a few miles farther west we

should have reached the shores of the Pacific. Pursuing our track

homewards, after the second unsuccessful engagement, we managed to pass

the thick forest before dark, and descending to the eastern valley

saw numerous cows and bulls at intervals. A short time after dark

we encamped for the night under the shelter of some trees near to

the head waters of the western river, and after a pipe--by way of

supper--wrapping ourselves in our mantles were soon fast asleep. At

daylight we mounted and continued our journey, arriving about 2 P.M.

pretty considerably hungry, having eaten nothing barring strawberries

and talka, and a few unripe currants, since our last evening in the

toldos. The women were naturally disappointed at our ill-luck, but

uttered no complaints or reproaches, and hastened to pound some charqui

for our refreshment. Next day, all except myself and my companion in

the overthrow, who complained of headache, went out hunting and returned

at night with young guanaco, and an ostrich or two. Some of the women

had seen cattle near the encampment, and Orkeke informed me that in

former years they used to occupy the plains below us in large herds, but

that the Indians had driven them into the interior by excessive hunting:

he also stated that on one occasion he spent some months in this spot,

and caught and tamed a considerable number. His accurate knowledge of

the country made his statement credible, and he also showed me a sort

of corral that had been made to enclose the wild animals. For my own

part the name of the Cordillera recalls the most hungry Christmas time

of my life: to parody the 'Ancient Mariner,' it was 'Cattle, cattle

everywhere, and never a bit of beef.' The following day was spent in the

toldos, and some of the Indians were desirous, or pretended to be, of

going once more in search of cattle. Orkeke would not hear of it, so on

the 28th we marched, following the course of the river in a more or less

north-east direction. The weather was beautiful, and after leaving the

plain we rode along the winding valley, now and then starting a herd

of guanaco or a solitary ostrich. Towards evening we encamped on the

banks of the river, and the women, after pitching the toldos, employed

themselves in grubbing up potatoes. This day we saw smoke to the north,

caused by the hunting parties of the other Indians, and also some at a

greater distance, which Orkeke said was that of the Araucanian Indians,

whom it was expected that we should shortly meet with.

On the 29th we were preparing to march, and while the women were

engaged in lading the horses some of us were picking the berries of

the 'Califata,' or barberry (Berberis buccifolia), or looking for

strawberries, when a boy, from a party of other Indians occupying the

toldos near at hand, rode up as if despatched as a chasqui, and stated

that his party had communicated with the Araucanians, amongst whom

there had been a row in a drinking bout, resulting in the death of

the cacique. This story was fully believed, and Orkeke was rather

perplexed, as perhaps the new cacique might not be friendly disposed

towards the Tehuelches. Without hunting, we rode quietly down to the

next encampment, where the two strange toldos had already arrived.

On our near approach one of the Indians came to meet us, and whilst

discussing a pipe, after the observance of the usual ceremonial

prescribed by etiquette (as we had not seen the man before), we asked

him about the row amongst the Araucanos, which turned out to be all a

hoax on the part of the promising youth who had visited us. After a

while we adjourned to the toldos, situated on a bend of the river near

a ford or pass. We had now arrived at the camp agreed on as a general

rendezvous at Henno, previous to the dispersion of the Indians. This

valley is called Teckel, and is a favourite resting place after the

young guanaco season, both for the purpose of refreshing the horses

and manufacturing the young guanaco skins into mantles, previous to

proceeding to trade either at the Rio Negro or with the Indians of Las

Manzanas. The encampment is usually situated on the ground occupied at

this time, viz., on the west side of the river, about a mile from a

large barren hill which shuts out the view of the Cordillera. On the

east side the valley extends some three miles, and continues open to the

north for perhaps six miles. It is all fertile, but the best grazing

ground is at the north-east end. The banks of the river, which are

destitute of trees, are in many places high, and formed under the

surface earth of various stratified clays--blue, white, and red. In the

bottom of the stream, which is singularly free from stones, thick beds

of clay are of frequent occurrence, almost approaching to the tufa found

in the Parana and other confluents of La Plata, and in some spots there

are beds of black sand, probably auriferous; fish are procurable in any

eddy or pool, and crayfish abound and form the most tempting bait for

the others. Out of some of the finest clay I was enabled to manufacture

a pipe by the simple process of shaping it in the hand and then baking

it in the ashes, but it did not last long. Shortly after our arrival one

of the small children, whilst playing with bolas formed out of the foot

and sinews of an ostrich, hurt himself, and in consequence a slaughter

of mares took place, which opportunely enabled us to dispense with

hunting and rest our horses, which by this time stood in sore need of

some bye days; though, as there was a good race-course, we frequently

indulged in a race just to keep the horses in exercise. After we had

been about a week settled here, the women being all hard at work making

up mantles--which will be described in the next chapter--the Indians

began to arrive, and the hunting was resumed; only, however, when

absolutely necessary. Some of the new arrivals proceeded to the wild

cattle district, and managed to kill a bull, although--as before--an

accident occurred. As my lazo was used to capture the bull, I came in

for a share of the meat, which was divided amongst the people in our

toldo; but it proved very tough, and rather nasty. Perhaps the palate,

having been so long accustomed to guanaco, ostrich, or horse, could not

relish meat of a coarser description; but the hide was invaluable for

making maneos and other horse-gear. On January 7 a messenger arrived

from Casimiro requesting me to send him some information, and stating

that he was distant some three marches, and wished to wait some time to

refresh his horses, &c. After consulting with Orkeke and Jackechan,

we sent back a messenger to say that, 'As game was scarce now in the

vicinity of Teckel, and all were more or less desirous of pushing

forward, he had better make haste and join us, otherwise we should

continue our march towards Las Manzanas.' This message had the desired

effect, as on the 11th he made his appearance, with several other

toldos, a few only remaining in the rear with Crimè, who was reported

to be unwell.

On Casimiro's arrival, as he now possessed a good toldo, I changed my

quarters to his residence, as agreed on at the outset of the journey.

I was sorry to leave Orkeke, and the old man was very much grieved, a

present of a revolver only troubling him the more, as he informed me

that he had nothing to offer in exchange; however, my assurance that I

did not give him a present expecting an exchange, as is customary with

Indians, appeared to console him. The usual consultation of the chiefs

took place, in which all the preceding arrangements were agreed to, and

we remained stationary in Teckel until January 20. As I had by this

time become well acquainted with the mode of life and usages of the

Tehuelches, and was looked upon as one of themselves--and in fact had

acquired a position and influence among them--it may be as well to call

a halt, and devote a chapter to a description of the manners and customs

of the Tsonecas, as Tehuelches or Patagonians call themselves.

[Illustration: SKETCH MAP FROM RIO SENGEL TO TECKEL.]