CHAPTER III.

THE RIO CHICO.

Breaking up of the Camp. -- An Idle Day. -- A Rash Start. -- A

Dilemma. -- Alone on the Pampa. -- Reunion. -- The Kau or

Toldo. -- The Domestic Interior. -- The Indian Tribes. -- Three

Races. -- Order of the March. -- The Hunt. -- Indian Game Law.

-- Tehuelche Cookery. -- Basaltic Hills. -- An Indian Festival.

-- My First Tehuelche Ball. -- Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. -- Fording

Rio Chico. -- A Battle. -- Death of Cuastro. -- Dangerous

Times. -- Chilian Conspiracy. -- Obsidian Plain and Pass. --

First Ostrich Eggs. -- Amakaken. -- Lifting the Boulder. -- The

Devil's Country. -- God's Hill. -- Condors and Dinner. --

Sunrise on the Cordillera. -- The Plague Herald. -- Gelgel Aik.

-- Escape from Matrimony. -- Téle. -- Eyes of the Desert. --

Preparations for War. -- Another Fight. -- Water Tigers. --

Indian Bravoes. -- Iron Ores. -- Ship Rock. -- Perch Fishing.

-- Appley-kaik. -- Casimiro's Escape. -- Arrival at Henno.

The morning after we had rejoined the Indian camp was marked by a

general breaking up of the party. Camillo and some others had already

left, and by this time were several marches in advance; Orkeke and

Isidoro started off to Santa Cruz, in search of the lost horse, and

charged with some little commissions for me. Finally, Casimiro and all

the rest broke up their encampment and started, intending to overtake

Camillo. Before leaving, Casimiro came to me, and affecting great

interest in my welfare, confidentially urged me to accompany himself and

live as an inmate of his (or rather Crimè's) toldo, adding that he had

been informed that Orkeke had no real intention of marching northward,

but designed to keep me in his toldo until, by some means or other, he

could possess himself of my arms and ammunition. As I saw no reason to

believe this story, I declined to comply with the proposal of Casimiro,

who, having consoled himself by begging a little coffee, took his

departure, and the encampment was reduced to the toldo, of which I was

to consider myself an inmate, and another, belonging to the only Indians

who remained--Tankelow, Orkeke's brother, and his son, a youth of about

eighteen. Besides these, there were three of the Chilian deserters

who as narrated had escaped from Punta Arena; one was attached to the

household of Tankelow, and the other two to that of Orkeke. One of these

was Arica, already mentioned, who being a very clever worker in hide,

had employed himself in adorning saddles and bridles for the Indians, by

which he had acquired a pretty good stock of gear. The condition of all

three was, however, not enviable. They had lowered themselves at first

by volunteering to discharge the drudgery of fetching wood and water,

and by this time were little better than slaves, obliged to perform

the menial offices, which before had been the task of the women.

These fair creatures, headed by Mrs. Orkeke--a young woman almost six

feet in height, and displaying a corresponding breadth across the

shoulders--employed themselves in cutting out and sewing guanaco

mantles, weaving fillets for the head, and chattering. Tankelow and his

son presently started for a hunt; but as I was not offered a mount, and

deemed it more reasonable to give my only charger a good rest and feed,

I could only accompany them to the river, the frozen surface of which

they crossed, and disappeared up a cañon that led up the Barranca, on

the northern limit of the valley, to the Upper Pampa. Having wistfully

watched them, I reconnoitred the valley of the Rio Chico. Behind me, to

the south-east, the river wound through plains covered with withered

coarse grass, some eighteen inches high, extending on either bank for

several miles till terminated by the rising barranca. Snow lay here

and there in patches on some of the higher ground, and increased the

dreariness of the prospect. About two leagues below the river divided

into two branches, which reunited beyond an island of some extent.

Looking up river in a north-westerly direction, the valley soon narrowed

in, the southern barranca sloping down to within a couple of miles of

our camp; and the view was closed by two remarkable hills resembling

fortresses, which seemed to stand on guard on either side. I made a

slight sketch of the outlines of the view, which forms the background of

the hunting scene.[4] Having strolled back to the toldo, I was greeted

by the women with the usual demand, 'Mon aniwee'--Anglicè, 'Lend us the

pipe,' which was duly charged and handed round. We then sat and watched

the proceedings of Keoken, Tankelow's pretty little daughter, just

budding into womanhood, and a small boy to whom I gave the name of

Captain John, who were amusing themselves by catching and riding some of

the horses which were tamer than the others. The urchins soon grew tired

of their equestrian feats; and, prompted by the spirit of mischief,

which seems ever to haunt children, and especially Indian boys, came

and begged a match of me. Not suspecting their purpose, I gave them the

coveted prize, with which they hurried off in high delight, and in

a very few minutes had set fire to the rank, withered herbage, some

distance off the toldo, but to the windward. The conflagration was at

first unnoticed by us; but at dusk, when Tankelow returned from hunting,

with a supply of meat, it was palpably dangerous. So all hands had to

set to work, and by dint of tearing up the grass, with great trouble we

stopped its progress, which if aided by a breeze in the night would very

probably otherwise have consumed the toldo and endangered the inmates.

Of the culprits no notice was taken, the occurrence being apparently

regarded as all in the day's work. After our supper off guanaco meat,

and a smoke, I turned in, and slept soundly on my Tehuelche bed of hides

and bolsters which had been carefully arranged by the tall hostess.

[4] Frontispiece.

The next day was got through by having a thorough 'wash' of my clothes,

and cultivating a closer acquaintance with the Chilian Arica, from whom

I obtained a dog in exchange for an old guanaco mantle. But as on the

third day no signs of the return of Orkeke appeared, the inaction became

insupportable, so after the departure on a hunting excursion of Tankelow

and his son, Arica and myself determined to start in pursuit of Casimiro

and his party. As Arica had no horse, it would be necessary for us to

ride and tie; but even thus we could make quick travelling. Accordingly

at 2 P.M. we started, much to the astonishment of the ladies, who

protested that we were certain to lose our way or be killed by the

pumas. One old lady, Orkeke's sister, after trying in vain to dissuade

us, presented me with a slice of charqui, which with a few handfuls of

coffee formed our stock of provisions. That day we did not get very far;

but in the next march, as the track of the Indians was plain, we had

made thirty miles by the time we halted, at nightfall, at a place where

another valley from the northward joined that of the Rio Chico. Our

charqui had barely sufficed for an evening meal, so this day we

satisfied our appetites with a supply of the tuberous roots of a

plant which grows in great quantities in most parts of Patagonia.

[Illustration: HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO.]

The plant, which in its growth resembles very closely the balsam bog

of the Falkland Islands, and might be easily taken for it but for the

absence of the gum, which perhaps was attributable to the quality of the

soil or the season of the year, is easily recognisable by its mass of

tiny green leaflets, and presents the appearance of a small hillock of

earth crowned with delicate moss. By digging down into the heap, one

large and several small tuberous roots are found, which when roasted in

the ashes prove sufficiently palatable to hungry men.

We went to sleep in the open air, rolled up in our guanaco mantles, but

awoke to find that a heavy fall of snow had covered everything a foot

deep, and totally hidden all trail of the Indians. In this dilemma,

quite uncertain which of the two valleys to ascend, and feeling

extremely cold, we first looked out for a place of shelter. This was

afforded us by a little dell or recess in the side of the barranca,

which was thickly overgrown with incense bushes. Betaking ourselves

thither, we speedily had a blazing fire kindled, and while warming our

chilled limbs held a council. It was decided that I should mount, and

proceed to hunt for some food; and then, if the weather moderated, we

could proceed. Arica was left in charge of the fire, with a strong

caution from me to keep it up, and to make as much smoke as possible,

by way of signal to the Indians. After a good deal of difficulty my

horse, which was only half broken, and had a playful way of rearing up

and striking with his forefeet, was curbed with the leathern thong which

forms the Indian bit. I then proceeded to scale the barranca bordering

the river valley, and soon reached the desolate undulations of the

higher Pampa. As a necessary precaution against losing my way, I was

careful to take two or three bearings of conspicuous hills, visible in

the northern limits of the valley; for the monotonous and dreary waste

of the Pampa, strewn with boulders and shingle, alternated with tufts of

grass, presents no track or landmark to guide the wanderer. It was not

long before two or three herds of guanaco were sighted; but the dog,

which had probably during the night foraged for himself, and found some

half-eaten carcase, would not run, and a gallop of some twelve miles

proved fruitless. Just as I was about giving up in despair, I observed a

herd in a hollow, which I was able to approach unobserved. Knowing that

our chance of food for the day depended on success, I warily approached,

and then charged, and to my delight succeeded in entangling one with

the bolas. He was soon despatched; and while I was busily cutting off a

supply of meat, to my sudden surprise an Indian came galloping up. The

newcomer proved to be Tankelow, who was in search of me. He brought word

that Orkeke had found the strayed horse, and had returned; and that the

party were marching as fast as they could to overtake Casimiro. He had

been detached, partly to hunt and partly to find us. In reply to my

inquiries about Arica, he assured me that he was all right, and as there

seemed no reason for disbelieving the statement, we speedily rode back

to the party, and rejoined them on the march; being received with shouts

of laughter by the ladies; but as Arica was nowhere to be seen, I

expressed my determination to ride back in search of him. This, however,

they would not allow, but despatched a mounted Indian and spare horse

to bring him in, and a good piece of meat for his refreshment. We then

proceeded at a brisk rate, and by nightfall reached the camp. Orkeke

at first seemed rather to resent my having started off alone, as if it

argued a want of confidence in him; but his delight at having recovered

his horse assisted him to recover his good humour. Mr. Clarke had sent

me by him some powder, which he _said_ he had lost, and some articles,

such as linen and tobacco, and my presenting them all to him quite did

away with any traces of ill feeling.

The several detachments were all now reunited, and the party mustered

altogether, besides the Chilians and myself, eighteen able-bodied

Tehuelche or Patagonian men, with a proportionate number of women and

children. The most important among the Indians were Orkeke, the actual

cacique, and his brother Tankelow, who possessed the greater number of

horses; Casimiro, whose leadership was still rather _in posse_; Camillo,

Crimè, Cuastro, Cayuke, &c. One more must be mentioned by name, Wáki; a

perfect Hercules in bodily frame, and a thoroughly good-natured fellow,

with whom I became great friends. Of all these men, who were in the camp

by the Rio Chico on August 15, but eight survived to reach the Rio Negro

in the following May; the rest had, at one time or another, been killed

or had died. The secret feuds, which were before long to endanger the

safety of us all, were as yet concealed, and all appeared to be good

friends. The whole were housed in five toldos--by which Spanish name the

Indian kau, or tents, strongly resembling those of our own gipsies, are

known. They were pitched in a sheltered hollow, with their fronts facing

the east, to avoid the bitter violence of the prevalent westerly winds.

Fitzroy has given an excellent description of the toldo; but to

those readers who are unacquainted with it a brief sketch will not be

unacceptable. A row of forked posts about three feet high is driven into

the ground in a slightly slanting position, and a ridge pole laid across

them; in front of these, at a distance of about seven feet, a second

row, six feet high, with a ridge pole; and at the same distance from

them a third row, eight feet high, each slanting a little, but not

at the same angle. A covering made of from forty to fifty full grown

guanaco skins, smeared with a mixture of grease and red ochre, is drawn

over from the rear, and the great drag of the heavy covering straightens

the poles; it is then secured by thongs to the front poles, while hide

curtains fastened between the inner poles partition off the sleeping

places, and the baggage piled round the sides of the tent excludes the

cold blast which penetrates under the edge of the covering. The fire is

kindled in the fore part, or 'mouth of the tent.' In very bad weather,

or when encamped for the winter, an additional covering is secured

to the front poles and brought down over an extra row of short posts,

making all snug. It is a common arrangement for relatives or friends to

combine their toldos, when, instead of bringing down the coverings to

the ground at the side, they are made to overlap, and thus one tent roof

will cover two or three distinct domestic interiors.

The furniture of the toldos consists of one or two bolsters and a horse

hide or two to each sleeping compartment, one to act as a curtain and

the other for bedding. The bolsters are made of old ponchos, or lechus,

otherwise called mandils, woven blankets obtained from the Araucanos,

who are famous for their manufacture, stuffed with guanaco wool and sewn

up with ostrich or guanaco sinews. The bolsters do duty as pillows or as

seats, and help to form the women's saddles on the march. Besides these,

the women all own mandils for their beds. The men occasionally use the

cloths worn under the saddles for seats when the ground is damp, but as

a rule all the inmates of the toldo squat upon Nature's carpet, which

has the advantage of being easily cleaned, for the Tehuelches are very

particular about the cleanliness of the interior of their dwellings,

and a patch of sod accidentally befouled is at once cut out and thrown

outside by the women.

The cooking utensils are simple, consisting of an asador, or iron spit,

for roasting meat, and an occasional iron pot, which serves for boiling

and also for trying out ostrich grease and marrow, which is employed

both for cooking and for mixing with the paint with which the faces of

both sexes are adorned. To these, wooden platters and armadillo shells,

to serve broth in, are sometimes added. The duty of pitching and

arranging the toldos on the halt and striking them for the march,

as well as loading the poles, covering, and furniture on the horses,

devolves entirely upon the women, who display great strength and

dexterity in the work.

About the toldos were innumerable dogs of all sizes and breeds, and

Mrs. Orkeke rejoiced in the possession of two fowls brought from the

settlement, and the all important possession of the Indians, horses,

completed the bustling liveliness of the scene. There were not less than

150 belonging to the various members of the party, Orkeke and Tankelow

owning about forty, besides mares and skittish colts of all ages, which

ran about so that they could not be counted. The reader can imagine what

a scene the march and encampment of such a party presents, and the care

with which the Indians must select their route so as to be sure of game

for themselves and pasture for their animals. Of the dogs and horses in

use by the Tehuelches a fuller description will be given hereafter.

But, to convey a clear understanding of the relations between the tribes

which will be mentioned in the ensuing pages, it is as well here briefly

to distinguish them. In the various maps and accounts of Patagonia

extant, numerous tribes, with different names, are marked and recorded.

These accounts, so far as my observations enabled me to judge, have

arisen from the custom of parties of the tribe combining to travel or

fight under the leadership of a particular chief, and being described by

themselves, when met with, by his name. I have been enabled to recognise

thus the Moluches, who were so called from Malechou, a hereditary chief

of that name; and the celebrated chief Lenketrou united under his

leadership men of several tribes, and is said to have commanded 1,500

men in his great raid on the Rio Negro settlements. There are now

between the Rio Negro and the Straits about 500 fighting men, giving

at a rough estimate a population of about 3,000. The Tehuelches,

or Patagonians proper, exclusive of the Foot Indians of Tierra del

Fuego--who are distinct, though they may be of the same original

stock--are divided into two great tribes, the Northern and Southern.

They speak the same language, but are distinguishable by difference of

accent, and the Southern men appear to be, on an average, taller and

finer men, and are more expert hunters with the bolas. The Northern

range chiefly over the district between the Cordillera and the sea; from

the Rio Negro on the north to the Chupat, occasionally descending as

far as the Santa Cruz River. The Southern occupy the country south of

the Santa Cruz, and migrate as far as Punta Arena. The two divisions,

however, are much intermixed and frequently intermarry; always,

notwithstanding, preserving their clannish division, and taking opposite

sides in the frequent quarrels. Our party was composed in almost equal

parts of both Northern and Southern, and one inmate of our toldo was a

Southern named Hummums, a brother of Mrs. Orkeke. From the Rio Negro as

far as the Chupat, another tribe, speaking a different language, is met

with, having their head-quarters at the Salinas, north of the Rio Negro.

These are the Pampas, called by the Tehuelches 'Penck,' whence I believe

the name Pehuelche has been corrupted. Several clans of this nation

extend over the plains north of Rio Negro, and make frequent inroads

into the Argentine settlements as far as the province of Santa Fé, and

even, I believe, to Cordova and Mendoza. The Pampas of the north of

Patagonia sometimes keep cattle and sheep, but generally subsist by the

chase. A third tribe appear, by their language and physique, to be a

branch of the Araucanos of Chili. These are the people called by the

Tehuelches Chenna, and also the Warriors; they are otherwise known as

Manzaneros, from their head-quarters Las Manzanas, so named from the

groves of apple trees; once a station of the early Jesuit missionaries,

who vainly endeavoured to convert and civilise these tribes. They are

less migratory and more civilised in their habits than the Tehuelches,

and are said to keep herds of cattle and sheep in the sheltered valleys

of the Cordillera, and sometimes till a little maize. I do not know

whether the Jesuit Fathers taught their disciples the art or no, but

from the apples of Las Manzanas these Indians brew a very tolerable

cider, besides making an intoxicating liquor from the beans of the

algarroba. The Tehuelches altogether depend for their stimulants on

the chance supplies of rum procured in trade at the settlements, and

this and disease, small-pox especially, are rapidly diminishing their

numbers.

We remained in our encampment by the Rio Chico for one day, during which

the missing Arica arrived. He was received with very black looks by

Orkeke, who from this time, although still allowing him a place in his

toldo, and a horse to ride, seemed to have conceived a violent aversion

to him, which argued badly for the Chilian's future safety. It appeared

that during my absence he had given way to the desire of providing

something to eat, and had left the fire to burn out, while he foraged

for roots. On returning he saw a huge puma couched by the extinct ashes

of the fire. Just, however, as Arica was about to fire the revolver

which I had lent him, the beast bounded away into the bushes. But as he

was convinced that the puma was close at hand waiting for an opportunity

to attack, he spent several hours on the watch with his revolver ready.

His delight may be imagined when, worn out with want of food and rest,

he was relieved by the arrival of the Indian with the meat and a horse

for him to ride.

The next day we made a short march up the river valley, the caravan of

women and horses, as usual, proceeding along the track, while the men

hunted in the adjacent plains. I was fortunate enough in the hunt to

kill a guanaco and an ostrich, and duly shared them with Casimiro. The

order of march and method of hunting which constitute the daily routine

are as follows: the Cacique, who has the ordering of the marching and

hunting, comes out of his toldo at daylight, sometimes indeed before,

and delivers a loud oration, describing the order of march, the

appointed place of hunting, and the general programme; he then exhorts

the young men to catch and bring up the horses, and be alert and active

in the hunt, enforcing his admonition, by way of a wind up, with a

boastful relation of his own deeds of prowess when he was young.

Sometimes the women, while the chief is haranguing, rekindle or blow

up the embers of the fire and prepare a slight breakfast, but not

invariably. Some cold meat is also occasionally reserved from the

evening meal, and placed in a hide bag to be carried with them on the

march, to be given to the children when they are hungry. But the general

custom for the men is to wait until the day's hunt has supplied fresh

meat. When the Cacique's 'oration'--which is very little attended to--is

over, the young men and boys lazo and bring up the horses, and the women

place on their backs the bolsters of reeds, tied with hide thongs,

mantles, and coloured blankets, which form their saddles; others are

strapping their belts on, or putting their babies into wicker-work

cradles, or rolling up the skins that form the coverings of the toldos,

and placing them and the poles on the baggage-horses; last of all the

small breakers, which are carried on the march, are filled with water.

The women mount by means of a sling round the horses' necks, and sit

astride of their bolster-saddles; their babies--if they possess any--and

their pet dogs are hoisted up, the babies being stowed in the cradles

behind them; then they take their baggage-horses in tow and start off in

single file. The men, who generally wait until all are ready, then drive

the spare horses for a short distance, and having handed them over to

the charge of their wives or daughters, retire to a neighbouring bush,

where a fire is kindled, pipes are lighted, and the hunt commenced in

the following manner:--Two men start off and ride at a gallop round a

certain area of country, varying according to the number of the party,

lighting fires at intervals to mark their track. After the lapse of a

few minutes two others are despatched, and so on until only a few are

left with the cacique. These spread themselves out in a crescent,

closing in and narrowing the circle on a point where those first started

have by this time arrived. The crescent rests on a baseline formed by

the slowly-proceeding line of women, children, and baggage-horses. The

ostriches and herds of guanaco run from the advancing party, but are

checked by the pointsmen, and when the circle is well closed in are

attacked with the bolas, two men frequently chasing the same animal from

different sides. The dogs also assist in the chase, but the Indians are

so quick and expert with the bolas that unless their horses are tired,

or they happen to have gambled away their bolas, the dogs are not much

called into use. Puma are very frequently found in the circles, and

quickly despatched by a blow on the head from a ball. On one occasion I

saw Wáki completely crush, by a single blow, the skull of an unusually

large one. The Indian law of division of the game prevents all disputes,

and is as follows: The man who balls the ostrich leaves it for the

other, who has been chasing with him, to carry or take charge of, and at

the end of the hunt it is divided; the feathers and body from the head

to the breast-bone and one leg belonging to the captor, the remainder to

the assistant. In the case of guanaco, the first takes the best half

in the same manner; the lungs, heart, liver, kidneys, and the fat and

marrow bones are sometimes eaten raw. The Tehuelches also cut out the

fat over the eyes, and the gristly fat between the thigh joints, which

they eat with great gusto, as also the heart and blood of the ostrich.

Owing to the entire absence of farinaceous food, fat becomes a necessary

article of diet, and can be consumed in much larger quantities than

in more civilised countries. That this is not merely owing to the

inclemency of the climate is proved by the appetite for fat which the

gauchos in the Argentine provinces acquire. When the hunt is finished,

and the birds cut up and divided, fires are kindled, and whilst stones

are heating the ostrich is plucked, the wing feathers being carefully

tied together with a piece of sinew. The bird is then laid on its back

and drawn; the legs are carefully skinned down, and the bone taken out,

leaving the skin; the carcase is then separated into two halves, and the

backbone having been extracted from the lower half, and the meat sliced

so as to admit the heated stones laid in between the sections, it is

tied up like a bag, secured by the skin of the legs, with a small bone

thrust through to keep all taut; this is placed on the live embers

of the fire, a light blaze being kindled when it is nearly done to

perfectly roast the outside meat. During the process of cooking it has

to be turned frequently to ensure all parts being thoroughly cooked.

When ready it is taken off the fire, and the top part being cut off and

the stones extracted, the broth and meat are found deliciously cooked.

The party, generally consisting of twos or fours, sit round the dish and

eat the meat, sopping it in the broth. The back part, which consists

nearly altogether of fat (when the ostrich is in good condition), is

then divided, pieces being given to each, and reserved as tid bits for

the women and children. When the head and breast half are to be cooked,

the bone is not extracted, but the wings turned inside and the breast

cavity filled with heated stones, and tied up with half of the skin of

the legs, which have been divided, additional pieces of meat from the

legs having been placed in the breast cavity. The fat of the breast

is divided amongst the party at the fireside, the owner in all cases

reserving none or a very small piece for himself, as the others who

are cooking at the same fire are sure to give him plenty. The cacique

generally receives the largest share, or if he is not present, the

greatest friends of the owner. The wing feathers are carefully taken to

the toldos and stored with others for future trade. The ostrich is most

thoroughly eaten; the gizzard, which is large enough to fill both hands,

being carefully cooked by the insertion of a hot stone and roasted; the

eyes, too, are sucked, and the tripe devoured; but when the birds are

thin they are simply skinned, and the carcase left to the pumas. After

the meal, concluding the hunt, is finished, a pipe is handed round,

saddles are re-adjusted, and the game placed on them, and the party

adjourn to the toldos, which by this time have been pitched and arranged

by the women.

Guanaco are not much killed, unless a long stay in a place is intended,

or an Indian feels inclined for blood, or ostriches, which are always

eaten in preference, are scarce. The meat of the guanaco is, however,

excellent; the haunches are generally what is termed in Spanish

'charqueared,' which means that the meat is cut off in thin slices,

and, after a little salt has been sprinkled over it, is dried in the

sun. When thoroughly dried it is roasted in the ashes, pounded between

two stones, and mixed with ostrich or other grease; this preparation,

like pemmican, is very useful for a man going a long journey, as it

can be carried in a small compass, and a mere handful satisfies the

appetite.

[Illustration: START FROM THE CAMP AT MÔWAISH OR WINDOW HILL.]

It would be tedious to describe every day's march, and the routine of

hunting, as we made our way slowly up the valley of the Rio Chico, which

was still frozen over. The weather was cold, and occasional showers of

snow accompanied the strong piercing westerly winds which blew every

day. The valley sometimes opened out into wide grass-covered plains,

dotted with incense-bushes, then rose again in huge bare ridge and

furrow-like undulations. Occasionally there occurred patches of swampy

ground with frozen lagoons, and here and there open springs, the resort

of numerous waterfowl. The hills on the northern side appeared bare

and rugged, rising abruptly out of irregular forms, while the southern

heights were lower, and presented more of the steep declivities known

as barrancas, interrupted at intervals by high rugged hills of basalt,

often assuming the appearance of ruined castles, closing in at the bends

of the winding river. To one of these--a remarkable hill under which we

were encamped on August 23, about 120 miles from Santa Cruz--I gave the

name of Sierra Ventana, from a window-like opening through its peak; the

Indians called it Môwaish. (See Illustration.) In many places the bases

of these hills were formed entirely of a description of lava, and one

of the Chilians informed me that whilst passing over a ridge, he had

observed several large masses of pure iron: this, however, I was

inclined to disbelieve, as although farther up the country iron ore

exists in large quantities, I only observed in this part a species of

ore similar to that common at Drobak, in Norway.

On one occasion, while marching, we observed smoke in our rear,

which was thought to be caused either by a messenger in search of us

announcing the arrival of the schooner, or else by a party of the

Southern Indians who had some idea of marching north. However, no scout

was sent back to discover the truth, so we remained in ignorance. On the

26th we halted, and encamped by the side of the river in a broad opening

of the valley; here there was a lagoon, not completely frozen, in which

grew a description of flag, of which the root, or rather lower stem, is

eaten by the Indians, and is succulent and juicy, with a pleasant taste.

The boys and girls soon brought a large supply into the toldos. The day

after our arrival in this place, the attainment of the age of puberty

of one of the girls was celebrated according to custom. Early in the

morning the father of the child informed the cacique of the event, the

cacique thereupon officially communicated the intelligence to the acting

doctor or medicine-man, and a considerable shouting was set up, while

the doctor adorned himself with white paint and was bled in the forehead

and arms with a sharp bodkin. The women immediately set to work to sew

a number of 'mandils' together. When the patchwork was finished, it was

taken with pomp and ceremony by a band of young men, who marched round

the poles--already fixed to form a temporary toldo--singing, whilst the

women joined in with the most dismal incantations and howlings. After

marching round several times, the covering was drawn over the poles, and

lances were stuck in front, adorned with bells, streamers, and brass

plates that shook and rattled in the breeze, the whole thing when

erected presenting a very gay appearance (its Indian name literally

meaning 'The pretty house'). The girl was then placed in an inner part

of the tent, where nobody was admitted. After this everybody mounted,

and some were selected to bring up the horses, out of which certain

mares and fillies were chosen, and brought up in front of the showy

toldo, where they were knocked on the head by a ball--thus saving the

blood (which was secured in pots) to be cooked, being considered a great

delicacy. It is a rule amongst the Indians that anyone assisting to take

off the hide of a slaughtered mare is entitled to a piece of meat, but

the flesh was on this occasion distributed pretty equally all round.

Whilst the meat was cooking, Casimiro, who was ruler of the feast,

sent a message for me to come to Crimè's toldo, where I found him busy

working at a saddle, in the construction of which he was, by the way, an

adept. His wife had a large iron pot bubbling on the fire, containing

some of the blood mixed with grease. When the mess was nearly cooked,

we added a little pepper and salt, and commenced the feast. Previous to

this I had felt a sort of repugnance to eating horse, as perhaps most

Englishmen--except, indeed, the professed hippophagists--have; but

hunger overcame all scruples, and I soon acquired quite a taste for this

meat. On this occasion everybody ate where they liked, in their own

toldos. Casimiro informed me, after the meal was concluded, that

there would be a dance in the evening. I looked forward with great

anticipation to this 'small and early,' and shortly saw some of the

women proceed to collect a considerable quantity of firewood, which was

placed outside the tent. Presently, towards dusk, a fire was made, first

outside the sacred precincts. The women all sat down on the grass round

about, but at some distance from the men, who were all seated on the

grass, except four and the musicians. The orchestra consisted of a drum

made by stretching a piece of hide over a bowl, also a sort of wind

instrument formed of the thigh-bone of a guanaco, with holes bored in

it, which is placed to the mouth and played, or with a short bow having

a horsehair string. When all was ready, some of the old hags all the

time singing in their melodious way, the band struck up, and four

Indians, muffled up in blankets, so that their eyes only were visible,

and their heads adorned with ostrich plumes, marched into the ring, and

commenced pacing slowly round the fire, keeping time to the music. After

two or three promenades, the time gradually quickened, until they went

at a sort of trot; and about the fifth round, dancing fast to the music,

they threw away their mantles, and exhibited themselves adorned with

white paint daubed all over their bodies, and each having a girdle of

bells extending from the shoulder to the hip, which jingled in tune to

their steps. The first four consisted of the chiefs Casimiro, Orkeke,

Crimè, and Camillo, who, after dancing with great action (just avoiding

stepping into the fire), and bowing their plumed heads grotesquely on

either side to the beats of the drum, retired for a short time to rest

themselves, after which they appeared again and danced a different

step. When that was over four more appeared, and so on, until everyone,

including the boys, had had a fling. Sometimes, to give greater effect,

the performers carried a bunch of rushes in one hand. About 9 P.M.,

everybody having had enough, Casimiro gave the sign. The band stopped

playing, and all retired to bed. The dancing was not ungraceful, but was

rendered grotesque by the absurd motions of the head. It was strictly

confined to the men, the women being only allowed to look on.

On the second day's march from the scene of my first Indian ball we

crossed a rocky ridge abounding with a description of vesicular lava;

the ridge ran out from the southern limits of the valley and terminated

in precipitous cliffs, round the base of which wound the river. The

surface of the ridge was fissured in many places with deep chasms like

Alpine crevasses, on the brink of one of which my horse stopped just in

time to escape a fall. The caravan had gone a more circuitous route to

take advantage of the lowest and easiest crest. On the other side of the

ridge the valley suddenly spread out to the extent of several miles, and

on the western horizon a line of snowy peaks was visible, their summits

capped with clouds: this was our first view of the Cordillera. The low

ground was cut up by streams and small lakelets of water, formed by the

overflow of a small fork of the river, which glistening in the afternoon

sunshine presented a beautiful silvery appearance, very refreshing

to the eye wearied with alternate gazing on withered grass and black

volcanic rocks. However beautiful to look at, this scene would clearly

prove difficult travelling, so a halt was called, and our course debated

on; ultimately it was resolved to cross the river and encamp on the

northern bank, where the ground was higher and free from floods, so

loads were carefully adjusted, and children transferred to the arms

of the men, to give the women more freedom of action; baggage-horses

were also taken in tow by the young men, and Casimiro and another

volunteering to lead the van and act as pilots, we proceeded to make our

way to the river-bank, which rose by a gradual elevation from the lower

inundated plain. After much floundering about in water-holes, and

various spills, which caused great merriment, especially when Mrs.

Orkeke and all her gear came down by the run, an iron kettle of which

she was very proud clattering down so as to frighten several of the

horses into what threatened to become a general stampede, the bank

was safely reached; the river was swollen high, and its rapid current

running six or seven miles an hour, was bringing down huge sharp-edged

masses of ice. It seemed almost impossible for the women and baggage

animals to cross. However, Orkeke, taking a long pole to sound with, led

the way, and by watching their opportunity to dodge the floating ice,

which cut the horses' and riders' legs cruelly, all got safely over. A

wilder scene could hardly be imagined--dogs howling on the bank fearing

to pass, women singing out to their various friends and relations, and

here and there an adventurous Indian, who scorned to go by the ford

with the rest, disappearing for a second in the river, horse and all,

but ultimately emerging some distance down the stream. The water was

bitterly cold, as may be imagined, and the piercing wind benumbed our

dripping bodies; so on arriving at the north bank, where there were some

small sandy hillocks, we kindled a large fire, and had a warm and a

smoke whilst the women were employed pitching the toldos. It had been

decided to remain here some days and then proceed to the vicinity of the

Cordillera for the purpose of catching wild horses. But, as will be

seen shortly, 'l'homme propose et Dieu dispose.' Looking up towards the

Cordillera from our encampment, the valley appeared to expand a few

miles up into one immense plain, and the Indians informed me that before

reaching the mountains there is a great drop or basin where the wild

horses are found. This was probably, at the period of our visit, a vast

sheet of water from the melting snows. Lake Viedma lies some miles to

the southward from the head of the valley, and I should be inclined to

think that the course of the Rio Chico, which undoubtedly flows from it,

would be found to come from the south to north, and bend easterly at the

head of the valley, where it unites the numerous streams as described by

Viedma in his journey in 1580. I am also inclined to think that Viedma

being taken twice across the Rio Chico mistook the river at the second

crossing for another, which he has marked as the Chalia, a name, by the

way, unknown to the Indians, save as applied to an unsavoury parasite

only too common among them. The following morning, September 2, we were

sitting quietly round the fire discussing a breakfast of boiled ostrich

prepared by the lady of the house, when suddenly the clash of knives was

heard, and we saw two Indians, destitute of mantles, with naked swords

in their hands, run across from Camillo's to Crimè's toldo. In a minute

everything was in an uproar; arms were produced, guns and revolvers

loaded, and some of the Indians equipped themselves in coats of mail,

and others, with the assistance of the women, padded themselves about

the chest and upper part of the body with thick blankets and corconillas

or saddle-cloths. Knowing what was about to happen, the women, and with

them all the Chilian deserters except one, beat a retreat to a safe

distance from the toldos. Having assumed my arms, and feeling thoroughly

mystified as to the real cause of this excitement, I went to Camillo's

toldo, where the scene explained itself. He was lying on his bed dead,

with a frightful gash in his side, having been murdered by Cuastro, one

of the Indians whom we had seen running to Crimè's tents. On issuing

from the toldo Casimiro met me, and asked for a revolver, as he had no

firearms, and I lent him one accordingly. The Indians showed by their

changed countenances all the fury of fight; their very complexions

seemed ghastly, and their eyes glared and rolled, seeming to see blood.

The two opposing parties, the Southern Indians--friends of Crimè, who

was a cousin of Cuastro--and Orkeke's and Casimiro's people or the

Northern party, were soon ranged in open line at some twenty yards

distance from each other. Cuastro was conspicuous by his tunic or 'buff

coat' of hide studded with silver, while his only weapon was a single

sword or rapier. The fight commenced with an irregular discharge of guns

and revolvers, which lasted a few minutes, till some of the Northern or

Orkeke's Indians, led by Casimiro, closed up, and a hand to hand contest

with swords and lances took place, resulting in the death of Cuastro and

the severe wounding of two or three Southern Indians. The Northerns then

drew off to reload, and were about to renew the action, when Tankelow

proposed a truce, which was accepted on the understanding that both

parties were to march at once in the same direction. The women and

children were then recalled from the bushes whither they had retired,

the horses brought up, and the dead buried. The Tehuelches' lance is

entirely different to that of the Araucanos or Pampas, and is only used

when fighting on foot; it consists of a heavy shaft eighteen feet in

length, at the extremity of which a blade is fixed about eighteen inches

long, constituting a most formidable weapon in the hands of an expert

Indian. Cayuke, whom I have before mentioned, in this fight was armed

with the lance, and ran Cuastro through the body, although protected by

his mail and endeavouring to parry the point with a sword. This Cuastro

was a brave man; when dying, with several bullets in his body, and

several lance thrusts, he sprang up to his full height and called out,

'I die as I have lived--no cacique orders me;' his wife then rushed up

to him crying and sobbing, but he fell down dead at the same moment.

Casimiro had a narrow escape; he parried a blow of a sword with what may

be termed the slack part of his mantle, but if the blow had caught him

on the head, as intended, it would have ended his career then and there.

The casualties were a wound in Crimè's leg, and a lance thrust clean

through the thigh of Hummums, a young Indian, who seemed to care very

little about it. The fight originated out of a vendetta between Cuastro

and Camillo, the latter having some years before caused the death of

a member of the family of the former, who had on a previous occasion

endeavoured to avenge it on Camillo, and he had only attached himself

to our party, in company with Crimè, in order to obtain an opportunity

of assassinating Camillo. This Cuastro had been suspected on good

grounds of making away with Mendoza, the Argentine sent from Buenos

Ayres in company with Casimiro, and who mysteriously disappeared; and he

had certainly, when under the influence of rum, at Santa Cruz, murdered

his own wife Juana, a daughter of Casimiro, so that brave as he was he

had richly deserved the fate he met with.

After the obsequies of the dead had been hurriedly performed--a

description of which is reserved for another place--the tents were

struck, and all marched off, the men remaining armed, and each party

travelling separately. Cayuke was sent back some miles to ascertain

if there were any signs of the other Southern Indians, who were half

expected to overtake us; but he returned some hours later with no

intelligence. We marched a few miles up the valley, rather coasting the

northern hills, and encamped by a most beautiful circular spring, the

water bubbling up through pure white sand and forming a tiny brook,

while little fishes darted across in the basin. The Indians still

remained with arms ready to hand--were very silent and ate nothing.

Several of the Northerns came into our toldo towards evening, and

remained a long time conversing by the embers of the fire, and ever

and anon one of the widows of the deceased would break out into a wail

of lamentation, sobbing in the most dismal and melancholy manner, the

lament at times being taken up by some of the older hags.

On the following day Crimè sent for me to dress his leg, imagining, of

course, that I understood surgery; so I washed the wound and bandaged it

with cold water bandages, which appeared to be successful, as in a few

days it inconvenienced him but little. Thence proceeding to Casimiro's

toldo--the smallest I ever saw--I got him to cover my saddle with a

guanaco skin I had obtained on the road. The children appeared to be the

only members of the party unaffected by the prevailing gloom. They had

found a snow-bank in a nook, and amused themselves sliding down it on a

bit of wood _à la Russe_. This evening things looked very black again.

A consultation was held in Orkeke's toldo, and although it was carried

on in a low tone, and I was little conversant with the Tehuelche tongue,

I heard my name frequently mentioned in connection with a revolver, and

also the Chilians. I was much puzzled at what was going on, but as Mrs.

Orkeke brought me some supper in the most gracious and smiling manner,

did not trouble myself more than to overhaul my arms quietly, and see

they were ready for use. I subsequently found out that a plot had been

set on foot amongst the Chilians to rise, rob, and murder the Indians,

and escape with the horses. Some, however, my informant among the

number, refused to join. The Indians, who are naturally quick-sighted,

had conceived a suspicion that all was not right, and were debating

whether it would not be better to kill the Chilians at once, before they

became more troublesome; but Casimiro prevailed on them to let them

remain until they did something to necessitate their destruction; and

so they escaped for the present.

September 5th, at an early hour, we were awoke by Orkeke's marching

harangue; and after coasting the hills bordering the valley for a few

miles, bade adieu to the valley of the Rio Chico, and struck into a

gorge of the northern hills, leading into an uneven valley lying between

low irregular hills of decomposed lava, which we followed, passing

several small lagoons in the lower hollows, around which there was

invariably a yellow description of clay. The hills were everywhere

covered with scrub, and presented a wild, bleak appearance, the grey

rocks only appearing now and then. After some hours' travelling through

this dismal district in a north-west course, we emerged on a large

plain at the western side, bounded by a range of hills 1,000 feet

high, forming a spur of the Cordillera. The weather was stormy, and we

could only catch occasional glimpses, through the driving clouds and

snow-storms, of the loftier peaks of the more distant mountains. Our

expedition in search of wild horses was, of course, after the recent

troubles, abandoned; and forced marches, to escape the Southern Indians,

in the event of their following from Santa Cruz, were the order of

the day. Hunting, however, was resumed by the unwounded, and several

ostriches were caught during the day. Towards evening the encampment was

fixed near a lagoon, the environs of which were barren, and destitute of

anything except a small low shrub which served for firewood. Although

the wind was northerly, it was bitterly cold; and as I had for some days

past adopted the native costume--keeping my 'store clothes' stowed away

under charge of Mrs. Orkeke--I felt it exceedingly. The 6th, 7th, and

8th of September were occupied in making forced marches northward,

accompanied by the usual hunting; and although both parties continued

armed, and appeared to be rather suspicious of each other, things went

on pretty smoothly. The country traversed on the 6th and 7th was a

large arid plain, dotted with a few stunted shrubs, enclosed by the

before-mentioned spur of the Cordillera on the western side, and on the

east by a low range of sandy-looking hills. The whole of this plain was

strewn with small pebbles of porphyry, quartz, silica, and obsidian;

also with small pieces of silicified wood. On the 8th we crossed the

spur by a pass walled on either hand with rocks of vesicular lava. Here

we halted for a quarter of an hour, and everyone broke off pieces of

stone suitable for making hand-balls for bolas. The descent on the

western side was no easy matter, the declivity being strewn with large

masses of rock and loose boulders, and the wind blowing bitterly cold,

and with such force that some of the women's horses could hardly face

it. Ultimately all managed to reach a spacious elevated pampa, on the

western side of which, some fifteen leagues off, rose the Cordillera of

the Andes. In the pass I observed several large pieces of obsidian,

so clear and peculiarly round-shaped that I at first imagined that a

demijohn had been carried thither by some previous party and broken. Of

this the women gathered some pieces, to serve as scrapers for cleaning

guanaco skins. We traversed the usual barren high pampa--interspersed

with low shrubs, coarse grass, and here and there an incense bush of

considerable size, which afforded a moment's shelter from the cutting

wind--for some distance, till we at length reached a cliff, below which

lay a grassy plain, watered by a small, rapid stream. About thirty miles

in the background were visible the lofty mountains of the Cordillera.

The inviting appearance of the pasture determined us to remain for a

couple of days to rest the horses, after the unusually long marches of

the preceding days. The following day was occupied chiefly in making

hand-balls for bolas from the soft porous stone obtained in the rocky

pass. Towards noon a frightful gale of wind sprang up, which blew down

most of the toldos; but ours, thanks to the strength of arm of Mrs.

Orkeke, who had securely fixed the poles, remained firm, only one or

two of the poles being broken. The river, here flowing in an eastward

direction, was the first stream met with since leaving the valley of

the Rio Chico. In the descent to it, the bench formation, although

recognisable, was not so much marked as in many of the other rivers.

After two days' rest, we resumed our journey; and having traversed the

grassy valley for, perhaps, a mile, ascended a slight ridge to a higher

plain of the usual sterile nature, in which the first ostrich eggs met

with were found. Our course was directed nearly north-west, to a range

of hills 800 feet in height; on their summit was a plateau strewn with

large stones and rocks.

We formed another hunt, in which numerous ostriches and several pumas

were killed. From the western side of the plateau we overlooked a large

plain, extending to the immediate vicinity of the mountains, but near

the side of which there appeared to be a cutting or steep descent, just

like a railway embankment. As it had been announced in the cacique's

address that we were to encamp near a spring on the eastern side, and I

had killed an ostrich, which, after giving a sharp run of half a mile,

had been turned by the cavalcade of women, I proceeded in company with

Casimiro and another to have some dinner. We accordingly selected a

bush, cooked, and ate our bird, and at the conclusion of our meal

mounted and proceeded to where we expected to find the encampment.

But, arriving at the spot, we found nobody, and looking over the plain

caught a glimpse of a belated woman just vanishing down the cutting

above mentioned. We accordingly followed, and an hour's gallop brought

us up with the remainder. The sun had set, but the light of a young moon

enabled us to make our way to the second bench. I may say the formation

altogether much resembled that of the river Cuheyli; but the river which

flowed in this valley was of small size, although, as we found, the

banks were boggy and almost impracticable. The moon had by this time

set, and after a considerable deal of confusion in the dark, all got

across, and night being far advanced encamped about a mile to the

northward. When daylight enabled us to examine the locality, we found

ourselves in a valley, walled in by lofty abrupt cliffs on both sides,

while a stream--bordered by marshes, containing numerous snipe and

teal--flowed swiftly down the centre of the glen. To the north the

valley appeared to bend westwards, so having nothing to do, I strolled

up to the turn and found that the high cliffs ceased, and were replaced

by the ordinary steep barrancas, covered from the top to the bottom with

incense bushes. The valley nowhere exceeded a mile in width, and the

gloom and oppressive effect of the prison-like walls of cliff rendered

it by no means a desirable place of abode, but the pasture skirting the

marsh was green and luxuriantly tender. While I was endeavouring to

secure some ducks and teal with the bolas, two of the Chilians came up

searching for firewood. They bitterly bewailed their lot in having

to work and slave for a parcel of savages, but finally forgot their

grievances in a slumber under a bush. Not caring to be supposed to have

been in their company, I returned to the camp, and examined the rocks,

which were different to those previously observed, showing in many

places granite, with schistose veins, and what appeared to be a species

of grey marble. A stay was made in this place of some four days, and

would have been longer, but that on the third day some of the party,

chiefly boys, who had strolled away a short distance, balling small

birds, came in with the news that Indians were coming from the south. A

scout was immediately sent out, horses brought up, and arms got ready.

Casimiro came to me for a supply of cartridges for the revolver, saying,

'Now we shall have to fight; for if those Southern Indians beat us,

they will spare neither man, woman, nor child.' This was cheering news,

seeing that the odds were likely to be about ten to one against our

side. However, just as we were mounting, the scout returned with the

news that he had found no traces of Indians; the supposed enemy being

only a troop of guanaco coming down to water. Cayuke, on its being

ascertained that there was really no danger, had one of his horses

killed as a thank offering; the meat of course being distributed for

food amongst his friends. There is in this place, which is called by the

Indians 'Amakaken,' a large spherical boulder of marble, which it is

the custom of the Indians to try their strength by lifting. Casimiro

informed me that this stone had been there for many years, and the

custom was very old. It was so large and heavy that I was just able to

grasp it with both arms, and raise it to the level of my knees, but

some of the Indians managed to lift it to their shoulders. The night

subsequent to the false alarm, snow fell heavily, notwithstanding which

on the following day the Indians, who did not appear to feel secure,

marched again in a northerly direction. Before quitting this valley, I

was fortunate enough to find an ostrich nest with four eggs in it,

which we devoured later on, cooked in the ashes by the simple method

of placing the egg upright, with a hole broken in the upper surface,

through which a piece of stick is inserted to stir round the yolk and

white, a little salt being thrown in, and the egg turned to ensure all

sides being equally done; the result being an omelette in the shell of

most appetising flavour, but a novice in this cookery is apt to burn his

fingers in turning the egg. Towards night we entered a dark and gloomy

gorge, winding amongst fantastic and confused cliffs and peaked hills,

thrown together in utterly chaotic confusion, which appeared to form a

barrier east and west. But it was impossible accurately to distinguish

the line, so inextricably were the heights jumbled together. My powers

of description are utterly inadequate to convey the idea of the

formless irregularity of this region of rocky hills.

At a late hour we encamped in a glen, or corrie, apparently without

a second outlet, and walled in by frowning cliffs, down the midst of

which a torrent foamed in a rocky channel. All the next day our march

continued through a barren desert of rocks, frequently intersected by

deep ravines with precipitous cliffs, the faces of which in many places

displayed beds of red and yellow ochre, visible at a great distance.

From some of these the women, after a scramble, replenished their

supplies of paint. The whole face of this district was torn and tossed,

as if by tremendous explosive force; and, except in some deep-lying clay

bottoms, where an occasional shallow lagoon was to be met with, the

track was waterless; snow lay on the heights and in some places on the

ground traversed by our march, in the course of which a number of the

large ibises, called in Chili bandurria (Theristicus melanopis), were

seen. The nature of the country rendered hunting laborious and useless.

Tankelow, however, found an ostrich and nest, the eggs from which, about

thirty in number, he, according to Indian custom, divided among those

who came up before they were removed from the nest; among these lucky

individuals was myself; for, seeing him make to the spot, and the male

bird get up, and being, moreover, well mounted and exceedingly hungry,

I was among the first arrivals. Far away to the right of our track,

extending thirty or forty miles eastwards, lies a district called by the

Indians 'The Devil's Country,' which, they assured me, is never entered,

probably from the barren and impracticable nature of the surface, which

seems, from description, to be even worse than the wilderness traversed

by us. Beyond this district there is a practicable track, sometimes

followed by the Indians, leading northward, probably used as a route to

the Chupat; but from that line to the sea the country is so impassable

that the Indians say it would require two years to proceed by the

sea-coast from Santa Cruz to the Rio Negro. The existence of such tracks

as these, and the desolate Travisias encountered near the coast, have

probably caused Patagonia to be described as an arid, almost waterless

country; but, in reality, after passing the coast barrier most of the

interior abounds in lagoons, springs, and frequent streams; and, even

in the Travisias, the numerous wild animals met with show that water

exists.

Towards evening we left the snow behind us; and descending a lofty hill,

which had bounded our view all day, came to a large swelling down, from

which the prospect was far more encouraging. Rolling plains extended to

the north and north-east, whilst the Cordillera rose like a wall on the

western side. This hill is called by the Indians 'God's Hill;' and the

tradition, as communicated by Casimiro, relates that from this spot the

Great Spirit dispersed the animals which he had made in the caverns.

But some of the animals must have remained behind, as, out on the lower

slope of the downs, two pumas were chased and killed. An hour's ride

over a sandy plain brought us to a valley with a stream flowing through

beautifully green pasture. This was the spot chosen for our encamping,

and some of the women were already busy planting the poles that form the

skeleton of the toldos; so, turning my horse adrift, I started down to

the stream, and, after the luxury of a bath, lay down and smoked until

the toldos were thoroughly arranged. The following day a short march was

made, in a north-west direction, to a valley containing better pasture;

here it was intended to give the horses much-needed repose. Meanwhile,

however, meat fell short, so a circle was organised; my horse was too

tired; but Orkeke, seeing me standing unprepared, said, 'Ask Ako (his

pet dog, and adopted child, and in virtue of his office the owner of

several horses) to lend you a horse.' As Ako had no objection I was soon

mounted, and started for the chase in high spirits. On our previous

journey we had remarked numerous tracks of what appeared to be ostrich

near the ground where our present circle was to be formed (viz., in

the direction of the Cordillera), and all expected to find plenty of

game. The circle was formed, myself going as one pointsman; and, after

arriving at the point, I watched anxiously for some time, but the only

animal that appeared was a male guanaco, which, as he did not see

me crouched behind an incense-bush, until he came within shot, I

successfully balled and killed. After waiting a little longer, and the

Indians being moderately near at hand, I changed my position a few

hundred yards, to a more likely spot; but no animals appeared, so I

proceeded in search of Orkeke, whom I shortly discovered smoking on the

top of a small eminence. After the pipe had been passed in silence, I

asked him what he had killed. 'Nothing,' was the answer; 'let's wait

and see; perhaps some other Indian has an ostrich.' A careful survey,

however, failed to discover anyone so lucky, although several had killed

guanaco. So we retired to where my dead guanaco lay uncovered: at our

approach two or three condors rose heavily up; and shortly about twenty

or thirty more spread their huge wings, sailed away, and perched on a

neighbouring rock. As for the guanaco, in the short half hour of my

absence it had been literally torn to pieces; so, after extracting and

eating the marrow-bones, we returned to camp, on our way capturing two

armadillos. During the past day or two the temperature had considerably

risen, the wind, though westerly, was mild and genial, and the Indians

affirmed that farther north it would be so warm that I should require

some covering for the head. We found on our return that Arica during our

absence had gone off somewhere on foot. As he had that morning asked and

obtained some tobacco from me, it seemed probable that he had determined

to attempt to make his way alone to reach civilisation at some point or

other. During our stay in this valley Casimiro requested me to write a

letter for him to the commandante at the Rio Negro, inquiring whether

the Argentine Government still allowed him his ration and pay as

lieut.-colonel in their service. I also wrote some letters to my

friends, but without much hope of their being 'mailed;' though Casimiro

assured me that when we joined the Northern Indians they would forward

them to the Araucanos, whence they _might_ go on by the people who went

to Rio Negro to fetch the chief's allowance of cattle; remote, however,

as were all these contingencies, still it was a pleasure to write. We

quitted the valley after three days' rest, during which Arica had not

appeared, and he was concluded either to have fallen a prey to a puma,

or to have gone off on his own account. We journeyed all day over

a rough hilly country, encumbered with large stones and occasional

patches of scrub of considerable height; ostriches abounded, and large

quantities of eggs were found. During a long march of about thirty miles

no water was seen until we reached the camp at sunset, situated in a

cañon; but along the route an occasional patch of snow sufficed to

quench our thirst. As I rode along in company with an Indian, named

'Tchang,' he began asking me questions: first, 'Who is cacique of the

English?' I explained to him that it was Her Gracious Majesty. 'Is she

married?' 'She is a widow.' 'Has she any children, and how many? Has she

lots of horses and mares and silver ornaments?' And so on, until I had

satisfied him; after which he rode along, repeating, 'A woman cacique!

A woman cacique! Four sons and five daughters! Lots of horses, mares,

sheep, and cattle! 'On the 22nd of September we left the encampment in

the cañon about sunrise, and, mounting the ridge on the north side,

halted close to the grave of an Indian; the broad and high cairn

of stones erected over it denoting him to have been a cacique of

importance, which fact was communicated to me in a low whisper by Wáki.

Here a fire was made, and a few stones added to the pile. Whilst the

Indians were warming themselves the sun rose, and the view of the

Cordillera, seen through the clear atmosphere, with the sun's first

rays illuminating the snowy mountain summits with a roseate flush,

was magnificent. We pursued our route over sandy plains, crossed at

intervals by shallow streams of water, and halted near some lagoons in

a place called by the Indians 'Kinck.'

The following day we marched again, hunting as usual on the way. A fat

ostrich at this time of the year was a rarity, but eggs abounded, and

formed the main staple of food; and the armadillos were also getting

into condition, and assisted to furnish a repast at the camp fire. On

the 27th we arrived at a place named 'Gelgel,' situated on the banks of

a rapid river, probably that debouching at Port Desire. This was the

point of divergence from the northern route to Patagones for any party

proceeding to hunt in the western plains. During our stay in Gelgel we

hunted in the surrounding country, and on several occasions observed

columns of smoke to the south, as if made by a party approaching. These

at last appeared nearer, and as no distinct answer was made to our

signal fires, scouts were sent out, but returned with no information,

one, however, asserting that he had found the tracks of many horses,

but his known character as an incorrigible liar made his statement

valueless. Still everybody became at last convinced that the Northern

Indians were at war with the Araucanos, and consequently preparations to

fight were commenced. After a watchful night, all fires out, and silence

strictly observed, all armed, and mounting their best horses, sallied

out. After a while the cause of the whole disturbance turned out to be

Arica, who had wandered for eleven days on foot, following our track,

subsisting on birds' eggs, and narrowly escaping the pumas, though he

had been more than once attacked by them in broad daylight, and had

killed one with his knife, his story being vouched for by the boots he

had contrived to manufacture out of his deceased enemy's skin. He looked

worn and haggard, his feet were sore, and he told me that another night

would have finished him. The Indians, who--owing to his desertion and

subsequent pursuit of us--had been kept on the alert all night, without

fire, and prohibited from conversing, were naturally indignant, and

wanted to kill him. But Casimiro and Orkeke interceded for him, and

he was brought back to the toldos behind another horseman. Casimiro,

_apropos_ of these signal fires, related to me a curious story, as

follows:--'Many years ago, when I was quite young, I was travelling

a few leagues to the northward, under my mother's charge. The party

encamped near a large lagoon not far from the Sengel river, and were

occupied in hunting in the neighbourhood. On several days in succession

smoke was observed in different directions, which approached nearer and

nearer each time. Being naturally supposed to be caused by the Indians,

it was answered, and scouts were at last sent to ascertain the cause, as

no messengers appeared. They returned, however, stating that they could

discover nothing. At the end of four days an Indian, tall, gaunt, and

emaciated, mounted on a very thin _mule_, arrived in the camp, and

asked for a chief whose name was unknown. The stranger was taken, as is

customary, to the chief's toldo, and his mule turned loose; but, strange

to say, it never moved from the spot where it was unsaddled, and the

Indian during the time he remained in the toldo neither ate nor drank.

At the end of three days he mounted his mule, which appeared as fresh as

when he arrived, and rode away to the northward. On the following day,

whilst hunting, a sickness struck the Indians--some falling dead from

their horses, while others, though able to return home, only survived a

short time. As is usual when disease breaks out, the toldos were removed

to some distance from each other, to escape infection, but many men,

women, and children died.' Of the fact that a plague or sickness did

cause the deaths of many Indians within a few days at some encampment

in these plains, I received further and reliable confirmation, my

informant, who was in the party, stating that the Pampa tribe was

decimated.

In the cliffs above the river on the eastern side of our encampment I

observed many balls of sandstone of various sizes. On breaking one in

two, a piece of what seemed to be ironstone formed a nucleus, around

which layers of sand appeared to have been aggregated. By what process

these balls could have been formed was to me a mystery; but they proved

very handy for bolas, only requiring to be slightly reduced in size.

Hunting to the westward from the encampment, we came across several

muddy, or rather clayey bogs, into one of which, when in full pursuit

of an ostrich, I rode, and my horse sank deep, throwing his rider a

complete summersault; and with much ado I first picked up myself, and

then with greater difficulty extricated my horse from the tenacious

morass.

After Arica's return, the Chilians manifested a restless spirit, and

frequently asked me the direction of the Chupat settlement. I replied

that it lay about 150 leagues to the E.N.E. from this point, as far as

I could judge; but that it would be better for them to remain with the

Indians, and do the women's work of providing wood and water, &c., than

to start off into a wild and dreary pampa, where they would inevitably

starve without a knowledge of the route or guides.

During our stay here I nearly fell a victim to a matrimonial

entanglement. A fair young Indian, whose hair cut across the forehead

denoted widowhood, moreover having several mares and considerable

possessions, to whom I had perhaps paid some slight attention, proposed

that I should set up toldo with her. This was quite out of my programme

of the journey, but inasmuch as the alliance might prove useful, as

well as agreeable, and feeling lonely in the absence of any particular

friend, I half agreed; so a go-between was despatched to arrange the

dowry, and it was settled that I should give a revolver in exchange

for two horses to be provided by the fair one's friends. However, the

evening before the happy day on which we were to have been united, the

alarm came, and as she belonged to the Southern Indians, I thought

better of giving up my arms; so I assigned as a reason for withdrawing

from the bargain, that I did not wish to leave my friend Orkeke's toldo.

I have no doubt that her people, desiring the help of my firearms, had

suggested the match to secure me to support their side. The lady at

first was rather disgusted, but soon got over it, and we remained on

our former friendly terms.

In this encampment two disagreements occurred between Indians and their

wives, which were the only matrimonial squabbles that came under my

notice during my wanderings in their company. One occurred between

Tankelow and his spouse in our toldo. It began by Tankelow's striking

his daughter, which his wife angrily resented; from words they came to

blows, and the squaw was getting rather the best of it, when Mrs.

Orkeke interposed with a strong arm, and forcibly put a stop to the

disturbance.

The following day Tankelow drove his horses off separately, but towards

evening a reconciliation was effected. On the 3rd of October we left

Gelgel-aik and marched west in the face of a bitterly cold wind. In the

hunt not less than seven pumas were killed, which were, as usual at this

time, very fat, and were duly boiled in the iron pots, furnishing an

excellent supper, the meat closely resembling boiled pork. During the

day seven of the Chilians were missed, and on our arrival at the toldos,

it transpired that they had determined to try and find their own way

to the Chupat settlement; and as they had left in an underhand manner,

which the Indians look upon as tantamount to a declaration of war, some

of the people wished to pursue and kill them, but this proposition was

overruled by Orkeke and Casimiro. The encampment was sheltered by a hill

named 'Téle,' close to a large lagoon, covered with waterfowl, into

which flowed a beautiful spring issuing from the hill; along the margin

of the clear pure water grew a profusion of a sort of green cress,

and at sunset flights of flamingoes (Phœnicopterus tgnipallo) and

rose-coloured spoonbills (Platalea ajaja) came to the lagoon to feed.

One day's hunting was done in the surrounding plain, which to the west

presents several of the remarkable drops or basin-like formations

described by Darwin as existing on the eastern side of the Cordillera.

On October 5th we broke up the camp and marched in a northerly

direction, until a stream of considerable size was arrived at; this

some of us crossed at once, although it was deep and the banks rotten

and unsound. The women and remainder of the party diverged to a ford,

old Orkeke sending one of the Chilians to take care that his little dog

(on whom he lavished his paternal affections) did not get wet. In half

an hour's time the whole party--Ako included--had crossed in safety, and

the camp was pitched on a peninsula between this river and another which

joined it lower down. The united streams may or may not form a tributary

of the Chupat, as the Indians disagreed on this point, some averring it

to be so, others stating that the river flowed into a large lagoon. The

weather had changed to drizzling rain, and the wet and sloppy state of

the toldos was very disagreeable. It did not, however, much affect our

clothing, as it is easy to dry a guanaco mantle by the fire, but care

must be taken only to expose the furred side to the heat, otherwise the

hide will become dried and apt to tear easily. Whilst in this encampment

lookouts were posted, and one came in stating that he had seen smoke in

a northerly direction. Consequently, on October 9, having rested our

jaded horses, which were rapidly improving in condition, from grazing on

the young green grass now springing abundantly in all the valleys, we

crossed a barren, clayey pampa, interspersed with bogs and marshes at

intervals, and on the 10th arrived at a small range of hills, running

east and west, under one of which the toldos were pitched, near to

another of those beautiful circular springs which frequently occur in

Patagonia; from the centre of the smooth white sand which formed the

bottom, the water bubbled up like liquid crystal, and silvery fishes

could be seen darting about in the circular basin. The Indians delight

in laving their hands and feet in the springs, and will sit there for

a long time admiring the beauty of these 'eyes of the desert.' As, on

our arrival, the women had not yet completed the domestic arrangements,

after throwing the spoils of the chase off our saddles, a party of us

ascended an adjacent hill to have a look round. The day was magnificent,

and the sun, just setting, bathed the whole country in a flood of red

tints. To the N.E. we observed three distinct columns of smoke which

the Indians averred to be caused by the five Chilian deserters, and

were very bitter against them, as they were supposed to have lost their

way, and to be desirous of returning again to the toldos. In this place

I found my compass would not act, owing, as I supposed, to having

been disabled; but as it subsequently behaved properly, its temporary

derangement must have been due to some local attraction. To the

northward, as well as I could guess the bearings, ran a long range of

hills, terminating in a peculiarly-peaked mountain, below which the

Indians pointed out the trees which fringed a river--according to their

statements, a tributary of the Chupat. To the west extended rolling

plains, which appeared to stretch away into the distance, interrupting

the chain of the Cordillera, as though there were a depression or break

in the mountains, no hills of large size being visible on the horizon.

Whilst lying down smoking on this hill, I picked up several pieces

of opal and cacholong combined, and as I was idly forming them into

different patterns on the ground, and had arranged a circle resembling

a miniature Indian grave, one of my companions observing what I was

doing, grew very angry and said, 'That will bring ill luck,' evidently

believing that I was mentally compassing the death of some one by

witchcraft. As I had no wish to be killed by way of prevention of any

imaginary spells, I quickly gathered up the specimens, many of which

were afterwards lost in the ensuing journey. The Indian name for this

place is Yaiken-Kaimak, signifying that it is the hill whence they espy

the signal smoke denoting the approach of the Indians from the north.

We remained five days in this encampment, a general uneasiness

prevailing, and arms being kept ready to hand. In addition to the

usual hunting, under the orders of the cacique, we were engaged in

performing exercises on horseback; this mounted drill being intended as

a preparation in case we should find the northern Tehuelches at war with

the Araucanos or Manzaneros Indians. The plains to the westward abounded

with guanaco, some thousands being enclosed in the circle at one time.

One day that I had not accompanied the hunting party, I was strolling

across the camp, having volunteered to occupy the post of the vidette

on an adjacent hill, when I observed a guanaco, very tired, coming

towards me; so, hiding behind a bush, I waited till he unsuspiciously

approached, and then rushing out, balled him with a pair of ostrich

bolas. As he was so close to me, his forelegs were perfectly tied up,

and I had not much difficulty in despatching him with a blow on the

head from another set of bolas. By this time I had attained tolerable

dexterity in the use of the bolas, and it was my invariable custom when

not otherwise employed to stroll about and practise. Besides their

use, my practical training had enabled me soon to acquire the art of

manufacturing them, and our many idle hours were employed in plaiting

ostrich sinews, so that I contrived to fit up an extensive assortment,

some of which I used to barter for tobacco. The weather during our stay

here became worse, rain, sleet, and gales of wind prevailing; and the

toldos, from the continuous rain and the marshy nature of the ground,

became so wet and wretched as to be almost uninhabitable, so that we

marched on the 16th over a level pampa--smoke to the eastward being

observed and duly answered during the journey. We encamped at night on

the north side of a small rapid stream, in a place called 'Pelwecken,'

situated a league from the wooded river, the trees of which were visible

from the encampment. I here saw a new game played by the Indians which

resembled that known amongst schoolboys as 'knucklebones,' being played

with small stones in lieu of the bones, and heavy stakes were lost and

won on the chances. On Sunday, the 17th, the Indians started to hunt in

the vicinity of the wooded river, and Casimiro proposed that I should

accompany him to the woods to cut poles for the toldos, and timber

for working saddles. Orkeke, however, for some reason or another,

recommended me to stay quietly in the toldos; and, as advice is

sometimes almost the same as a command, I acquiesced, although longing

to enjoy a close view of a tree again after so much wandering over the

treeless pampas. As the day was warm and fine, I strolled down the river

in search of the eggs of the upland goose (Chloephaga magellanica),

yellow-billed goose (Cygnus coscoroba), and other water fowl,

and returned about 2 P.M. with plenty of spoil. The women were

superintending the cooking of some of these, when one of them rushed

into the toldo and cried out that the Indians were returning and a fight

had taken place. A glance at the coming horsemen was at once sufficient

to convince us that she was right. They came galloping back by twos and

threes, swords drawn, mantles hanging off their shoulders, and their

faces glowing with fury. They at once proceeded to get their guns and

revolvers to renew the fight. Orkeke, however, arrived and made a

long speech, and ultimately quiet was restored. One man--a brother

of Camillo--had been killed and left on the pampa. The sister of the

deceased was frantic at his death, and, arming herself with a knife,

attempted to avenge him; but she was soon stopped, disarmed and quieted.

The deceased was armed with a six-shooter, and his assailant had only a

sword; one shot missed him and the next barrel missed fire, whereupon he

closed and ran his adversary through the body. Casimiro returned shortly

after the remainder, and when he heard of the fight and the result, was

for some time eager to renew it and avenge the slain man, who was a

relation of his own, but at last yielded to Orkeke's arguments. The

following day the smoke to the east appeared pretty close, and, when we

had marched on a little, two young men were despatched in its direction

with private instructions from Orkeke, and we proceeded to the wooded

river, where we luxuriated for a short time under the shade of a

description of birch tree and then forded the stream, which is of

considerable width and very rapid. The Indians declared that it was

impossible for any man to swim across the river in the deeper portion

below the ford, on account of some ferocious beasts which they termed

water tigers--'Tigres de l'agua'--which would certainly attack and

devour anyone in the water. They described them as yellow quadrupeds,

larger than puma. It is certain that two ostriches which, being too poor

for use, had been left on the bank, were found by us next day in the

shallow water, torn and half devoured, and the tracks of an animal

resembling those of a large puma were plainly visible leading down to

the water; but a puma invariably drags its prey to a bush; and, though

jaguar will take the water readily, I have never known one devour its

prey except on land, nor, as far as I know, are they found so far

south. The animal may be a species of the large brown otter with

orange-coloured fur on the breast, found in the Parana; but the Indians'

account is curious as bearing on the name of the lake--'Nahuel Huapi,'

or Tigers' Island. It is possible that the aguarra found in the valley

of the Rio Negro may also haunt these districts. They further told me

that stags had been seen on the banks of the river, but none were heard

of during our stay in the neighbourhood. A few miles below the ford the

belt of trees ceases, and on the southern side there is a peculiar group

of what seem to be square-shaped rocks, which at a distance have very

much the appearance of a small town regularly built and walled. This

is called by the Indians 'Sengel,' and was the scene of a great fight

between the Tehuelches and Araucanos many years ago, relics of which in

the shape of bones and skulls still whiten the plain. After crossing the

river, the young men who had been sent back returned, bringing with them

three horses belonging to the Chilians and one man of their party, who,

incredible as it seems, had assisted the Indians to dismount and disable

his companions. The particulars of the fate of the others were not

divulged, though a story was current that some of them had managed to

reach the Chupat. I asked no questions, but the blood-stained knife of

one of the young men told its own story. This day all the Indians rode

on in silence, the last two days' events having roused all their bad

passions. I rode alone, feeling that there was danger in the air, and

near our halting place joined Orkeke and two others at a fireside

for the purpose of cooking some ostrich eggs, which we were busily

discussing when a messenger came to say that Casimiro was waiting to see

me at a spot which he indicated. I mounted and rode off accordingly, but

had not gone far before the two bravos who had been commissioned to do

for the Chilians galloped up, one from either side, one brandishing his

sword and the other swinging his bolas. I at once put spurs to my horse,

and my mantle flying back discovered two revolvers belted round my waist

underneath it. They checked their career and sang out, 'Stop! Where are

you going?' But, without making any reply, I galloped on, being not

further interfered with, and soon joined my old friend. He then informed

me that, being utterly disgusted with the late proceedings and general

anarchy, he had determined to push forward by himself to meet the

Northern Indians, leaving his wife and children under the charge of

Cayuke. He therefore wanted the letters which I had written for him,

and my own, which he undertook to forward at the same time. So I rode

back to the toldos for the letters, which I carried to Casimiro without

anyone attempting to stop my way.

Having returned to the fire under the bush, I dismounted, and whilst

cooking another egg, gave Orkeke a piece of my mind; quietly hinting

that I carried ten lives about me. He assured me it was all a mistake,

and had happened without any orders from him, the young fellows only

wishing to try my mettle by way of joke. I replied that jokes of that

sort were sometimes dangerous, and the subject was mutually dropped.

We encamped by the side of a stream, into which many of us soon plunged

to take a refreshing bath, always a favourite enjoyment with the

Tehuelches, who are powerful swimmers, and dive well. While resting

here and sporting in the water a better state of feeling arose, and the

mutual suspicion and discord which had so long prevailed was gradually

forgotten. Casimiro had left, taking one of the Chilians; and his spouse

told me, amid a torrent of abuse of her better half, that he had gone

through fear, the other Indians having determined to kill him; and she

added that he had the heart of a skunk, a vulture, and an armadillo.

These combined would make a very nice mixture. That he was right in

making his escape at this particular juncture was very evident, for

the next day two young men were sent out, ostensibly as chasquis or

messengers, to look for the Northern Indians, but in reality to try and

overtake Casimiro and dispose of him; however, they returned without any

tidings of the wily old chief.

In the range of hills described as visible from Kaimak, there is a mine

or vein of iron ore, about a mile due west from the brook, and marked

by a large mass of white quartz. This is used by the Indians in the

manufacture of bolas, and an excursion was made to it. We brought

back numerous pieces, some of which, now in my possession, have been

examined, and pronounced to be brown and magnetic iron ore. The Indians

also told me that some leagues to the east of this spot a mass of iron,

having, as well as could be gathered from their account, the shape of a

bar-shot, lies in the middle of a barren plain, and is regarded by

them with superstitious awe. Whether this be an aërolite, or has any

connection with the ore on the hill side, it was not in my power to

determine, for in the critical state of feeling then prevalent a visit

of inspection was impracticable.

On the 22nd of October we marched a few miles, always following the

line of hills, and in a northerly course. Ostrich eggs still formed the

main staple of food, and furnished a diet sufficiently nutritious, but

producing all the effects of a course of 'Banting.' Fortunately this

day two of us killed fat pumas, some steaks off which broiled, by way

of variety, were an acceptable addition to the evening meal; but from

experience I should advise all travellers to boil their puma. We

encamped in a small gorge in the hills, directly under a peculiarly

pointed rock, which is called Yowlel, or Ship Rock, from its resemblance

to a ship under sail, and is regarded with superstition by the Indians,

who believe that all who endeavour to ascend it in the calmest weather

will, on arriving at the summit, have their mantles blown to pieces by

furious gusts of wind.

The next day--a glorious morning, after a night's rain--we proceeded

in the same direction; and while waiting for the heavy baggage, in the

shape of the women and children, several of us repaired to a regular

racecourse--a beaten track six feet wide, extending for almost three

miles, level and free from stones, though rather sandy. Here we had

trials of the speed of our horses to while away the interval; and when

the women appeared, proceeded to the chase, over a pampa formed by a

bend in the range of hills. During the hunt we found the carcase of a

guanaco, which had been killed by a puma, carefully covered up in grass

and scrub. It was a fat animal, such as the puma always singles out,

although I have read in some accounts that he follows the herds and

picks up the weakly ones. That this is not the case was proved on

various occasions, by finding the carcases left by these cats, which

were always those of animals in good condition. Early in the afternoon

we arrived at the encampment, by the side of a small river, flowing in

an easterly direction from the hills. The women, with the exception of

one or two, were not present, and might be seen about two miles off,

grubbing up a description of potato which grew in the neighbouring hill

side. The day was warm, and Orkeke invited me to go to the top of one

of the hills to see if any smoke or signs of Indians were visible. We

accordingly crossed the stream, and while riding along the northern bank

I observed fish swimming lazily on the top of the water. After crossing

a marshy patch of ground, we ascended the hills, and dismounting near a

bank of blue earth, climbed on foot to the summit, which was composed

of a description of quartz, with crystalline veins running through it.

Scrambling up this formation, we arrived at the top, whence we had a

beautiful view of the encampment and the green pasture bordering the

stream. To the northward the view was rather shut in by hills rising to

a considerable elevation. Just below us lay a valley, in which several

guanaco and ostriches were taking their evening meal. We remained here

for some time smoking and enjoying the face of nature generally, but

could discern no smoke or signs of Indians. Orkeke remarked that the

pasture had a fresher appearance lower down the course of the stream,

and proposed that we should inspect it. We accordingly descended from

our elevated position, mounted, and proceeded to the valley below; in

our descent being lucky enough to kill a fat male ostrich, which was

sitting on a nest of twenty-four eggs. We investigated the grass, which

was of good quality; and after an _al fresco_ meal, in which we were

joined by Tchang, returned to the toldos, where the women had just

arrived with a considerable supply of potatoes. I again, on our way

back, observed fish in the stream, so, turning my horse adrift,

proceeded to extract my hooks and line from the baggage under the

charge of Mrs. Orkeke. After a little delay all was ready; a piece of

meat supplied the place of fly as bait; and dropping it gently into the

pool, I soon had a bite, and pulled out a fish about two pounds weight,

of the perch class, similar to that called dorado in the River Plate.

After half-an-hour's fishing I landed several others as large, and as

it was nearly dark, returned to supper off fried fish and boiled

potatoes.

I had no opportunity of seeing the plants which produced these tubers,

but they exactly resembled those I afterwards obtained in the northern

country from a plant, the feathery fern-like leaf of which springs from

a long slender stem. The following day we shifted camp down river, to

the neighbourhood of the green pasture, and found large quantities of

the eggs of the upland geese, ducks, &c. In the neighbourhood one lonely

tree grew by the side of the stream, although the banks were lined

with driftwood, probably carried down from the wooded slopes of the

Cordillera, ten miles farther west, during floods. This day, smoke

having been distinctly seen to the northward, Hummums was despatched to

ascertain whether it were a signal from the much-looked-for Northern

Indians. Three days subsequently, about nine in the evening, whilst I

was lying dreaming of home, and had just--in dreamland--taken a glass

of sherry, Orkeke woke me up with the intelligence that fires were to

be seen to the north, which were no doubt caused by the 'chasqui' or

messenger previously despatched. In about three hours' time--somewhere

about midnight--Casimiro, Hummums, and another Indian rode into the

camp, and our toldo was soon crowded to hear the news from our chasqui,

who stated that the Northern Indians were in the wild cattle district,

where they had killed several animals; they were also well provided

with tobacco and other necessaries from the Rio Negro, where they had

been for trading purposes in August, and they would welcome our party,

provided that they came in a friendly spirit. The following morning we

had a great consultation in Crimè's toldo, at which it was determined

that all quarrels should be forgotten, and that we should march at once

to effect a junction with the other Indians. This having been resolved

on, all marched in an easterly direction to an encampment situated

on the borders of the same stream, and under a range of hills called

'Appleykaik.' Here we remained three days; and smoke not previously

accounted for having been observed to the east, two scouts were sent

out to ascertain the cause, but returned without intelligence. We spent

our time, as usual, in hunting, or bathing in the river; and on October

31 marched again, and had not gone very far, in a north-east direction,

before Tankelow--who had started earlier than the rest, and constituted

himself a _corps d'observation_--appeared, with a strange Indian of the

Pampa tribe, who stated that his companions were on their way to join

the Northern Indians. They had come from the neighbourhood of the

Chupat colony, and were, as far as I could make out, mixed Pampas and

Tehuelches. It was agreed that they should join us and the others at a

place called 'Henno,' to which we were at present marching. We continued

our route after this slight interruption, and encamped for the night

near the banks of a small stream. The weather had entirely changed, the

wind blowing bitterly from the south-west, with squalls of sleet, hail,

and snow; and but few of the party found it agreeable to take the

evening bath. Casimiro was in high spirits, as many of the Northern

Indians were relations of his, and he was to be invested with the

supreme command--in prospect of which he had already received presents

of horses, and was looking forward to the consultation of the chief,

which, he assured me, would have to be conducted with great pomp. During

our talk, Casimiro narrated all his adventures after quitting the

toldos. He had travelled so fast, knowing that he would probably be

pursued, that on the fifth day his horse broke down, as for two days

previous he had seen smoke from some encampment to which he was by this

time close, though he was uncertain whether it was that of his friends

or not. He left his Chilian companion, and proceeded to an eminence

to reconnoitre. During his absence the Chilian fell asleep; the grass

caught fire and surrounded the sleeping man. The Indians--Hinchel's

people--attracted by the smoke, came down and rescued him, all his

clothes having been burned off and his body severely scorched. Having

heard his story, Hinchel at once sent a party to search for Casimiro.

When the latter saw the five mounted Indians approaching, wrapped in

their ponchos, he was uncertain if they were Araucanos or Tehuelches,

and drew his revolver, prepared to pick them off in detail; but soon, to

his great relief, he recognised in the leader a relation of his own. He

also told me that when Hummums, our chasqui, arrived, he was entertained

by some friend of his own, to whom, in the evening, he boasted that he

and his friends had killed all the Christians in their camp. This story

was at once carried to Hinchel and Casimiro, who inquired if 'Muster'

had also been killed; to which the tale-bearer unhesitatingly replied

that he had. Hinchel, who had previously heard all about the English

visitor from Casimiro, was furious at what he considered a grave breach

of hospitality, and issued orders forthwith to apprehend the chasqui,

and to mount and make ready to avenge my supposed death by killing

Orkeke and all his party. Hummums, however, when interrogated as a

prisoner, in great terror declared that 'Muster' was safe, and that no

one had any idea of killing him, and then the storm blew over. But this

account, which was confirmed by the report of the chasqui, accidentally

overheard by myself, prepared me to meet Hinchel with feelings of

friendliness towards a chief who had evinced so keen a sense of the

care to be taken of a stranger who had confided himself to Indian

hospitality; and the impression of this chief's character then formed,

was fully confirmed on further acquaintance with him.

The two following days our route lay through a succession of rather

barren valleys, bordered by ranges of high hills, everywhere strewn

with rocks and boulders, and having a very gaunt and weird appearance.

The valleys generally contained good pasture on either the northern or

southern side of the streams which flowed down every one; but away from

the vicinity of the water the soil was sandy, with low bushes scattered

here and there.

On November 2nd, about 2 P.M., we arrived at a pass or gorge above the

rendezvous at Henno. The view of the valley below was very refreshing;

green grassy plains stretched for some miles, with a beautiful silvery

stream running down the centre. But, much to our disappointment, no

signs of Indians were visible; so we descended, and after bathing in a

pool, and waiting until the toldos were pitched, lighted a big signal

fire, which was shortly answered to the westward, and a messenger

was immediately despatched who returned towards nightfall with the

intelligence that the expected people would arrive next day; and we

had to reconcile ourselves to another night of anxiety, being not at

all certain as to the reception to be expected from the newcomers.