Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco
Cosçumne River
Mickélemes River
Ford of the San Joaquin
Extensive plain
Tule marshes
Large droves of wild horses and elk
Arrive at Dr. Marsh's
Vineyard
Californian grape
Californian wine
Aguardiénte
Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin
Californian beef
Cattle
Grasses of California
Horses
Breakfast
Leave Dr. Marsh's
Arrive at Mr. Livermore's
Comforts of his dwelling
Large herds of cattle
Sheep
Swine
Californian senora
Slaughtering of a bullock
Fossil oyster-shells
Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain
Arrive at mission of San José
Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission
Pedlars
Landlady
Filth
Gardens of the mission
Fruit orchards
Empty warehouses and workshops
Foul lodgings.
_September 13th_.--We commenced to-day our journey from New Helvetia to
San Francisco. Our party consisted, including myself, of Colonel
Russell, Dr. McKee of Monterey, Mr. Pickett, a traveller in the
country, recently from Oregon, and an Indian servant, who had been
furnished us by Captain Sutter. Starting about 3 o'clock P.M., we
travelled in a south course over a flat plain until sunset, and
encamped near a small lake on the rancho of Mr. Murphy, near the
Cosçumne River, a tributary of the Sacramento, which heads near the
foot of the Sierra Nevada. The stream is small, but the bottom-lands
are extensive and rich. Mr. Murphy has been settled in California about
two years, and, with his wife and several children, has resided at this
place sixteen months, during which time he has erected a comfortable
dwelling-house, and other necessary buildings and conveniences. His
wheat crop was abundant this year; and he presented us with as much
milk and fresh butter as we desired. The grass on the upland plain over
which we have travelled is brown and crisp from the annual drought. In
the low bottom it is still green. Distance 18 miles.
_September 14_.--We crossed the Cosçumne River about a mile from our
camp, and travelled over a level plain covered with luxuriant grass,
and timbered with the evergreen oak, until three o'clock, when we
crossed the Mickélemes River, another tributary of the Sacramento, and
encamped on its southern bank in a beautiful grove of live oaks. The
Mickélemes, where we crossed it, is considerably larger than the
Cosçumnes. The soil of the bottom appears to be very rich, and produces
the finest qualities of grasses. The grass on the upland is also
abundant, but at this time it is brown and dead. We passed through
large tracts of wild oats during the day; the stalks are generally from
three to five feet in length.
Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and we
discharged him. As soon as he obtained his discharge, he was entirely
relieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected to
be suffering for several hours. Eating his breakfast, and mounting his
horse, he galloped off in the direction of the fort. We overtook this
afternoon an English sailor, named Jack, who was travelling towards
Monterey; and we employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder of
the journey.
A variety of autumnal flowers, generally of a brilliant yellow, are in
bloom along the beautiful and romantic bunks of the rivulet. Distance
25 miles.
_September 15_.--Our horses were frightened last night by bears, and
this morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, had
strayed so far that we did not recover them until ten o'clock. Our
route has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriant
grass, wild oats, and a variety of sparkling flowers. The soil is
composed of a rich argillaceous loam. Large tracts of the land are
evidently subject to annual inundations. About noon we reached a small
lake surrounded by _tule_. There being no trail for our guidance, we
experienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike the
San Joaquin River at the usual fording place. Our man Jack, by some
neglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelled
to proceed without him. This afternoon we saw several large droves of
antelope and deer. Game of all kinds appears to be very abundant in
this rich valley. Passing through large tracts of _tule_, we reached
the San Joaquin River at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank. Here
we immediately made large fires, and discharged pistols as signals to
our man Jack, but he did not come into camp. Distance 35 miles.
_September 16_.--Jack came into camp while we were breakfasting,
leading his tired horse. He had bivouacked on the plain, and, fearful
that his horse would break loose if he tied him, he held the animal by
the bridle all night.
The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from its
mouth. At this season the water is at its lowest stage. The stream at
the ford is probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animals
crossed it without much difficulty, the water reaching about midway of
their bodies. Oak and small willows are the principal growth of wood
skirting the river. Soon after we crossed the San Joaquin this morning
we met two men, couriers, bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton,
the governor and commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter's Fort.
Entering upon the broad plain, we passed, in about three miles, a small
lake, the water of which was so much impregnated with alkali as to be
undrinkable. The grass is brown and crisp, but the seed upon it is
evidence that it had fully matured before the drought affected it. The
plain is furrowed with numerous deep trails, made by the droves of wild
horses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and graze upon it. The
hunting sportsman can here enjoy his favourite pleasure to its fullest
extent.
Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in order to visit
the rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. McKee and Pickett about
noon. We passed during the afternoon several _tule_ marshes, with which
the plain of the San Joaquin is dotted. At a distance, the tule of
these marshes presents the appearance of immense fields of ripened
corn. The marshes are now nearly dry, and to shorten our journey we
crossed several of them without difficulty. A month earlier, this would
not have been practicable. I have but little doubt that these marshes
would make fine rice plantations, and perhaps, if properly drained,
they might produce the sugar-cane.
While pursuing our journey we frequently saw large droves of wild
horses and elk grazing quietly upon the plain. No spectacle of moving
life can present a more animated and beautiful appearance than a herd
of wild horses. They were divided into droves of some one or two
hundred. When they noticed us, attracted by curiosity to discover what
we were, they would start and run almost with the fleetness of the wind
in the direction towards us. But, arriving within a distance of two
hundred yards, they would suddenly halt, and after bowing their necks
into graceful curves, and looking steadily at us a few moments, with
loud snortings they would wheel about and bound away with the same
lightning speed. These evolutions they would repeat several times,
until, having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a final
adieu, and disappear behind the undulations of the plain.
The herds of elk were much more numerous. Some of them numbered at
least two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, when
running, a very singular and picturesque appearance. We approached some
of these herds within fifty yards before they took the alarm. Beef in
California is so abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is but
little hunted, and not much prized, hence the elk, deer, and even
antelope are comparatively very tame, and rarely run from the
traveller, unless he rides very near them. Some of these elk are as
large as a medium-sized Mexican mule.
We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o'clock P.M., greatly
fatigued with the day's ride. The residence of Dr. M. is romantically
situated, near the foot of one of the most elevated mountains in the
range separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plain
surrounding the Bay of San Francisco. It is called "Mount Diablo," and
may be seen in clear weather a great distance. The dwelling of Dr. M.
is a small one-story house, rudely constructed of adobes, and divided
into two or three apartments. The flooring is of earth, like the walls.
A table or two, and some benches and a bed, are all the furniture it
contains. Such are the privations to which those who settle in new
countries must submit. Dr. M. is a native of New England, a graduate of
Harvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural abilities and
extensive scientific and literary acquirements. He emigrated to
California some seven or eight years since, after having travelled
through most of the Mexican States. He speaks the Spanish language
fluently and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexican
institutions, laws, and customs was fully displayed in his conversation
in regard to them. He obtained the grant of land upon which he now
resides, some ten or twelve miles square, four or fire years ago; and
although he has been constantly harassed by the wild Indians, who have
several times stolen all his horses, and sometimes numbers of his
cattle, he has succeeded in permanently establishing himself. The
present number of cattle on his rancho is about two thousand, and the
increase of the present year he estimates at five hundred.
I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety of
vegetables. In another inclosure was the commencement of an extensive
vineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavour
any grapes which I have ever tasted. This grape is not indigenous, but
was introduced by _the padres_, when they first established themselves
in the country. The soil and climate of California have probably
improved it. Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length,
and weigh several pounds. The fruit is of medium size, and in colour a
dark purple. The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolves
in the mouth immediately. Although Dr. M. has just commenced his
vineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now in
a stale of fermentation. I tasted here, for the first time,
_aguardiénte_, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape. Its
flavour is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render it
equal to the brandies of France. Large quantities of wine and
_aguardiénte_ are made from the extensive vineyards farther south. Dr.
M. informed me that his lands had produced a hundredfold of wheat
without irrigation. This yield seems almost incredible; but, if we can
believe the statements of men of unimpeached veracity, there have been
numerous instances of reproduction of wheat in California equalling and
even exceeding this.
Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York,
which had been chartered and freighted principally by a party of Mormon
emigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and children
included. These Mormons are about making a settlement for agricultural
purposes on the San Joaquin River, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh. Two
of the women and one of the men are now here, waiting for the return of
the main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select a
suitable site for the settlement. The women are young, neatly dressed,
and one of them may be called good-looking. Captain Gant, formerly of
the U.S. Army, in very bad health, is also residing here. He has
crossed the Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trapping
excursions, has explored nearly every river between the settlements of
the United States and the Pacific Ocean.
The house of Dr. Marsh being fully occupied, we made our beds in a
shed, a short distance from it. Suspended from one of the poles forming
the frame of this shed was a portion of the carcass of a recently
slaughtered beef. The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of it
presenting that marbled appearance, produced by a mixture of the fat
and lean, so agreeable to the sight and palate of the epicure. The
horned cattle of California, which I have thus far seen, are the
largest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw. There is
certainly no breed in the United States equalling them in size. They,
as well as the horses, subsist entirely on the indigenous grasses, at
all seasons of the year; and such are the nutritious qualities of the
herbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, and
the latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (which
is often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied the
privilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding. The varieties
of grass are very numerous, and nearly all of them are heavily seeded
when ripe, and are equal, if not superior, as food for animals, to corn
and oats. The horses are not as large as the breeds of the United
States, but in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity for
endurance they are fully equal to our best breeds. The distance we have
travelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles.
_September 17_.--The temperature of the mornings is most agreeable, and
every other phenomenon accompanying it is correspondingly delightful to
the senses. Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of unbolted
flour, stewed beef, seasoned with _chile colorado_, a species of red
pepper, and _frijoles_, a dark-coloured bean, with coffee. After
breakfast I walked with Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill,
about a mile distant from his house, from which the view of the plain
on the north, south, and east, and the more broken and mountainous
country on the west, is very extensive and picturesque. The hills and
the plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak, sometimes in clumps or
groves, at others standing solitary. On the summits, and in the gorges
of the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir display their tall
symmetrical shapes; and the San Joaquin, at a distance of about ten
miles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timber
and shrubbery. The herds of cattle are scattered over the plain,--some
of them grazing upon the brown but nutritious grass; others sheltering
themselves from the sun under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks.
The _tout ensemble_ of the landscape is charming.
Leaving Dr. Marsh's about three o'clock P.M., we travelled fifteen
miles, over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally with
wild oats, and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore just
before dark. We were most kindly and hospitably received, and
entertained by Mr. L. and his interesting family. After our mules and
baggage had been cared for, we were introduced to the principal room in
the house, which consisted of a number of small adobe buildings,
erected apparently at different times, and connected together. Here we
found chairs, and, for the first time in California, saw a side-board
set out with glass tumblers and chinaware. A decanter of _aguardiénte_,
a bowl of loaf sugar, and a pitcher of cold water from the spring, were
set before us, and, being duly honoured, had a most reviving influence
upon our spirits as well as our corporeal energies. Suspended from the
walls of the room were numerous coarse engravings, highly coloured with
green, blue, and crimson paints, representing the Virgin Mary, and many
of the saints. These engravings are held in great veneration by the
devout Catholics of this country. In the corners of the room were two
comfortable-looking beds, with clean white sheets and pillow-cases, a
sight with which my eyes have not been greeted for many months.
The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowy
whiteness, upon which were placed dishes of stewed beef, seasoned with
_chile Colorado, frijoles_, and a plentiful supply of _tortillas_, with
an excellent cup of tea, to the merits of which we did ample justice.
Never were men blessed with better appetites than we are at the present
time.
Mr. Livermore has been a resident of California nearly thirty years,
and, having married into one of the wealthy families of the country, is
the proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing. An
_arroyo_, or small rivulet fed by springs, runs through his rancho, in
such a course that, if expedient, he could, without much expense,
irrigate one or two thousand acres. Irrigation in this part of
California, however, seems to be entirely unnecessary for the
production of wheat or any of the small grains. To produce maize,
potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is indispensable. Mr.
Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle. His horses,
during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or stolen
by the Indians. I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering several
hundred. They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of an
excellent quality, but the wool is coarse. It is, however, well adapted
to the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in the
country,--coarse blankets and _serápes_. But little attention is paid
to hogs here, although the breeds are as fine as I have ever seen
elsewhere. Beef being so abundant, and of a quality so superior, pork
is not prized by the native Californians.
The Senora L. is the first Hispano-American lady I have seen since
arriving in the country. She was dressed in a white cambric robe,
loosely banded round the waist, and without ornament of any kind,
except several rings on her small delicate fingers. Her complexion is
that of a dark brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin of
most Californian women. The dark lustrous eye, the long black and
glossy hair, the natural ease, grace, and vivacity of manners and
conversation, characteristic of Spanish ladies, were fully displayed by
her from the moment of our introduction. The children, especially two
or three little _senoritas_, were very beautiful, and manifested a
remarkable degree of sprightliness and intelligence. One of them
presented me with a small basket wrought from a species of tough grass,
and ornamented with the plumage of birds of a variety of brilliant
colours. It was a beautiful specimen of Indian ingenuity.
Retiring to bed about ten o'clock, I enjoyed, the first time for four
months, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow.
My enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with regret, for I noticed that
several members of the family, to accommodate us with lodgings in the
house, slept in the piazza outside. To have objected to sleeping in the
house, however, would have been considered discourteous and offensive.
_September 18_.--Early this morning a bullock was brought up and
slaughtered in front of the house. The process of slaughtering a beef
is as follows: a _vaquero_, mounted on a trained horse, and provided
with a lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing.
Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the
lasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of
the saddle. During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which
usually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and
keeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of the
beast are wasted without producing any other result than his own
exhaustion. The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot release
himself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place of
execution. Arriving here, the vaquero winds the lasso round the legs of
the doomed beast, and throws him to the ground, where he lies perfectly
helpless and motionless. Dismounting from his horse, he then takes from
his leggin the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, and
sticks the animal in the throat. He soon bleeds to death, when, in an
incredibly short space of time for such a performance, the carcass is
flayed and quartered, and the meat is either roasting before the fire
or simmering in the stew-pan. The _lassoing_ and slaughter of a bullock
is one of the most exciting sports of the Californians; and the daring
horsemanship and dexterous use of the lariat usually displayed on these
occasions are worthy of admiration. I could not but notice the
Golgotha-like aspect of the grounds surrounding the house. The bones of
cattle were thickly strewn in all directions, showing a terrible
slaughter of the four-footed tribe and a prodigious consumption of
flesh.
A _carretada_ of fossil oyster--shells was shown to me by Mr.
Livermore, which had been hauled for the purpose of being manufactured
into lime. Some of these shells were eight inches in length, and of
corresponding breadth and thickness. They were dug from a hill two or
three miles distant, which is composed almost entirely of this fossil.
Several bones belonging to the skeleton of a whale, discovered by Mr.
L. on the summit of one of the highest elevations in the vicinity of
his residence, were shown to me. The skeleton when discovered was
nearly perfect and entirely exposed, and its elevation above the level
of the sea between one and two thousand feet. How the huge aquatic
monster, of which this skeleton is the remains, managed to make his dry
bed on the summit of an elevated mountain, more experienced geologists
than myself will hereafter determine. I have an opinion on the subject,
however; but it is so contrary in some respects to the received
geological theories, that I will not now hazard it.
Leaving Mr. Livermore's about nine o'clock A.M., we travelled three or
four miles over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle were
grazing. When we approached, they fled from us with as much alarm as
herds of deer and elk. From this plain we entered a hilly country,
covered to the summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts or
hunches of a species of grass, which remains green through the whole
season. Cattle were scattered through these hills, and more sumptuous
grazing they could not desire. Small streams of water, fed by springs,
flow through the hollows and ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides,
are timbered with the evergreen oak and a variety of smaller trees.
About two o'clock, P.M., we crossed an _arroyo_ which runs through a
narrow gorge of the hills, and struck an artificial wagon-road,
excavated and embanked so as to afford a passage for wheeled vehicles
along the steep hill-side. A little farther on we crossed a very rudely
constructed bridge. These are the first signs of road-making I have
seen in the country. Emerging from the hills, the southern arm of the
Bay of San Francisco came in view, separated from us by a broad and
fertile plain, some ten or twelve miles in width, sloping gradually
down to the shore of the bay, and watered by several small creeks and
estuaries.
We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San José, or St.
Joseph. Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings once inhabited
by thousands of busy Indians, but now deserted, roofless, and crumbling
into ruins, we reached the plaza in front of the church, and the
massive two-story edifices occupied by the _padres_ during the
flourishing epoch of the establishment. These were in good repair; but
the doors and windows, with the exception of one, were closed, and
nothing of moving life was visible except a donkey or two, standing
near a fountain which gushed its waters into a capacious stone trough.
Dismounting from our mules, we entered the open door, and here we found
two Frenchmen dressed in sailor costume, with a quantity of coarse
shirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other small articles, together with
_aguardiénte_, which they designed retailing to such of the natives in
the vicinity as chose to become their customers. They were itinerant
merchants, or pedlars, and had opened their wares here for a day or two
only, or so long as they could find purchasers.
Having determined to remain here the residue of the day and the night,
we inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place that
could furnish us with food. They directed us to a house on the opposite
side of the plaza, to which we immediately repaired. The senora, a
dark-skinned and rather shrivelled and filthy specimen of the fair sex,
but with a black, sparkling, and intelligent eye, met us at the door of
the miserable hovel, and invited us in. In one corner of this wretched
and foul abode was a pile of raw hides, and in another a heap of wheat.
The only furniture it contained were two small benches, or stools, one
of which, being higher than the other, appeared to have been
constructed for a table. We informed the senora that we were
travellers, and wished refreshment and lodgings for the night. "_Esta
bueno, senores, esta bueno_," was her reply; and she immediately left
us, and, opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the preparation of
our dinner. The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a good view
through the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the room in
which we were seated. In a short time, so industrious was our hostess,
our dinner, consisting of two plates of jerked beef, stewed, and
seasoned with _chile colorado_, a plate of _tortillas_, and a bowl of
coffee, was set out upon the most elevated stool. There were no knives,
forks, or spoons, on the table. Our amiable landlady apologized for
this deficiency of table-furniture, saying that she was "_muy pobre_"
(very poor), and possessed none of these table implements. "Fingers
were made before forks," and in our recent travels we had learned to
use them as substitutes, so that we found no difficulty in conveying
the meat from the plates to our mouths.
Belonging to the mission are two gardens, inclosed by high adobe walls.
After dinner we visited one of these. The area of the inclosure
contains fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which was
planted with fruit trees and grape-vines. There are about six hundred
pear trees, and a large number of apple and peach trees, all bearing
fruit in great abundance and in full perfection. The quality of the
pears is excellent, but the apples and peaches are indifferent. The
grapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I saw none upon the vines,
which appeared healthy and vigorous. The gardens are irrigated with
very little trouble, from large springs which flow from the hills a
short distance above them. Numerous aqueducts, formerly conveying and
distributing water over an extensive tract of land surrounding the
mission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, they
at present contain no water.
The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, and
are all constructed of adobes with tile roofs. Those houses or barracks
which were occupied by the Indian families are built in compact
squares, one story in height. They are generally partitioned into two
rooms, one fronting on the street, the other upon a court or corral in
the rear. The main buildings of the mission are two stories in height,
with wide corridors in front and rear. The walls are massive, and, if
protected from the winter rains, will stand for ages. But if exposed to
the storms by the decay of the projecting roofs, or by leaks in the
main roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into shapeless heaps of mud.
I passed through extensive warehouses and immense rooms, once occupied
for the manufacture of woollen blankets and other articles, with the
rude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed. Filth and
desolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life. The
granary was very capacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of the
exuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under the
superintendence of the _padres_. The calaboose is a miserable dark room
of two apartments, one with a small loop-hole in the wall, the other a
dungeon without light or ventilation. The stocks, and several other
inventions for the punishment of offenders, are still standing in this
prison. I requested permission to examine the interior of the church,
but it was locked up, and no person in the mission was in possession of
the key. Its length I should suppose is from one hundred to one hundred
and twenty feet, and its breadth between thirty and forty, with small
exterior pretensions to architectural ornament or symmetry of
proportions.
Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our
landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced
as "_mi madre_," and two or three Indian _muchachas_, or girls, clad in
a costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latter
were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth
standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The
two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of
the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework.
Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she
had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the
night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much
offended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweep
out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square,
to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge
during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made,
we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells"
which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night
augured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode
of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with
the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough
to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds
in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18
miles.