III. UNIVERSITY LIFE AT ATHENS

However apposite may have been the digression into which I was led when

I had got about half through the foregoing Chapter, it has had the

inconvenience of what may be called running me off the rails; and now

that I wish to proceed from the point at which it took place, I shall

find some trouble, if I may continue the metaphor, in getting up the

steam again, or if I may change it, in getting into the swing of my

subject.

It has been my desire, were I able, to bring before the reader what

Athens may have been, viewed as what we have since called a University;

and to do this, not with any purpose of writing a panegyric on a

heathen city, or of denying its many deformities, or of concealing what

was morally base in what was intellectually great, but just the

contrary, of representing things as they really were; so far, that is,

as to enable him to see what a University is, in the very constitution

of society and in its own idea, what is its nature and object, and what

it needs of aid and support external to itself to complete that nature

and to secure that object.

So now let us fancy our Scythian, or Armenian, or African, or Italian,

or Gallic student, after tossing on the Saronic waves, which would be

his more ordinary course to Athens, at last casting anchor at Piraeus.

He is of any condition or rank of life you please, and may be made to

order, from a prince to a peasant. Perhaps he is some Cleanthes, who

has been a boxer in the public games. How did it ever cross his brain

to betake himself to Athens in search of wisdom? or, if he came thither

by accident, how did the love of it ever touch his heart? But so it

was, to Athens he came with three drachms in his girdle, and he got his

livelihood by drawing water, carrying loads, and the like servile

occupations. He attached himself, of all philosophers, to Zeno the

Stoic,--to Zeno, the most high-minded, the most haughty of speculators;

and out of his daily earnings the poor scholar brought his master the

daily sum of an obolus, in payment for attending his lectures. Such

progress did he make, that on Zeno's death he actually was his

successor in his school; and, if my memory does not play me false, he

is the author of a hymn to the Supreme Being, which is one of the

noblest effusions of the kind in classical poetry. Yet, even when he

was the head of a school, he continued in his illiberal toil as if he

had been a monk; and, it is said, that once, when the wind took his

pallium, and blew it aside, he was discovered to have no other garment

at all;--something like the German student who came up to Heidelberg

with nothing upon him but a great coat and a pair of pistols.

Or it is another disciple of the Porch,--Stoic by nature, earlier than

by profession,--who is entering the city; but in what different fashion

he comes! It is no other than Marcus, Emperor of Rome and philosopher.

Professors long since were summoned from Athens for his service, when

he was a youth, and now he comes, after his victories in the battle

field, to make his acknowledgments at the end of life, to the city of

wisdom, and to submit himself to an initiation into the Eleusinian

mysteries.

Or it is a young man of great promise as an orator, were it not for his

weakness of chest, which renders it necessary that he should acquire

the art of speaking without over-exertion, and should adopt a delivery

sufficient for the display of his rhetorical talents on the one hand,

yet merciful to his physical resources on the other. He is called

Cicero; he will stop but a short time, and will pass over to Asia Minor

and its cities, before he returns to continue a career which will

render his name immortal; and he will like his short sojourn at Athens

so well, that he will take good care to send his son thither at an

earlier age than he visited it himself.

But see where comes from Alexandria (for we need not be very solicitous

about anachronisms), a young man from twenty to twenty-two, who has

narrowly escaped drowning on his voyage, and is to remain at Athens as

many as eight or ten years, yet in the course of that time will not

learn a line of Latin, thinking it enough to become accomplished in

Greek composition, and in that he will succeed. He is a grave person,

and difficult to make out; some say he is a Christian, something or

other in the Christian line his father is for certain. His name is

Gregory, he is by country a Cappadocian, and will in time become

preëminently a theologian, and one of the principal Doctors of the

Greek Church.

Or it is one Horace, a youth of low stature and black hair, whose

father has given him an education at Rome above his rank in life, and

now is sending him to finish it at Athens; he is said to have a turn

for poetry: a hero he is not, and it were well if he knew it; but he is

caught by the enthusiasm of the hour, and goes off campaigning with

Brutus and Cassius, and will leave his shield behind him on the field

of Philippi.

Or it is a mere boy of fifteen: his name Eunapius; though the voyage

was not long, sea sickness, or confinement, or bad living on board the

vessel, threw him into a fever, and, when the passengers landed in the

evening at Piraeus, he could not stand. His countrymen who accompanied

him, took him up among them and carried him to the house of the great

teacher of the day, Proaeresius, who was a friend of the captain's, and

whose fame it was which drew the enthusiastic youth to Athens. His

companions understand the sort of place they are in, and, with the

license of academic students, they break into the philosopher's house,

though he appears to have retired for the night, and proceed to make

themselves free of it, with an absence of ceremony, which is only not

impudence, because Proaeresius takes it so easily. Strange

introduction for our stranger to a seat of learning, but not out of

keeping with Athens; for what could you expect of a place where there

was a mob of youths and not even the pretence of control; where the

poorer lived any how, and got on as they could, and the teachers

themselves had no protection from the humours and caprices of the

students who filled their lecture-halls? However, as to this Eunapius,

Proaeresius took a fancy to the boy, and told him curious stories about

Athenian life. He himself had come up to the University with one

Hephaestion, and they were even worse off than Cleanthes the Stoic; for

they had only one cloak between them, and nothing whatever besides,

except some old bedding; so when Proaeresius went abroad, Hephaestion

lay in bed, and practised himself in oratory; and then Hephaestion put

on the cloak, and Proaeresius crept under the coverlet. At another

time there was so fierce a feud between what would be called "town and

gown" in an English University, that the Professors did not dare

lecture in public, for fear of ill treatment.

But a freshman like Eunapius soon got experience for himself of the

ways and manners prevalent in Athens. Such a one as he had hardly

entered the city, when he was caught hold of by a party of the academic

youth, who proceeded to practise on his awkwardness and his ignorance.

At first sight one wonders at their childishness; but the like conduct

obtained in the medieval Universities; and not many months have passed

away since the journals have told us of sober Englishmen, given to

matter-of-fact calculations, and to the anxieties of money-making,

pelting each other with snowballs on their own sacred territory, and

defying the magistracy, when they would interfere with their privilege

of becoming boys. So I suppose we must attribute it to something or

other in human nature. Meanwhile, there stands the new-comer,

surrounded by a circle of his new associates, who forthwith proceed to

frighten, and to banter, and to make a fool of him, to the extent of

their wit. Some address him with mock politeness, others with

fierceness; and so they conduct him in solemn procession across the

Agora to the Baths; and as they approach, they dance about him like

madmen. But this was to be the end of his trial, for the Bath was a

sort of initiation; he thereupon received the pallium, or University

gown, and was suffered by his tormentors to depart in peace. One alone

is recorded as having been exempted from this persecution; it was a

youth graver and loftier than even St. Gregory himself: but it was not

from his force of character, but at the instance of Gregory, that he

escaped. Gregory was his bosom-friend, and was ready in Athens to

shelter him when he came. It was another Saint and Doctor; the great

Basil, then, (it would appear,) as Gregory, but a catechumen of the

Church.

But to return to our freshman. His troubles are not at an end, though

he has got his gown upon him. Where is he to lodge? whom is he to

attend? He finds himself seized, before he well knows where he is, by

another party of men, or three or four parties at once, like foreign

porters at a landing, who seize on the baggage of the perplexed

stranger, and thrust half a dozen cards into his unwilling hands. Our

youth is plied by the hangers-on of professor this, or sophist that,

each of whom wishes the fame or the profit of having a houseful. We

will say that he escapes from their hands,--but then he will have to

choose for himself where he will put up; and, to tell the truth, with

all the praise I have already given, and the praise I shall have to

give, to the city of mind, nevertheless, between ourselves, the brick

and wood which formed it, the actual tenements, where flesh and blood

had to lodge (always excepting the mansions of great men of the place),

do not seem to have been much better than those of Greek or Turkish

towns, which are at this moment a topic of interest and ridicule in the

public prints. A lively picture has lately been set before us of

Gallipoli. Take, says the writer, a multitude of the dilapidated

outhouses found in farm-yards in England, of the rickety old wooden

tenements, the cracked, shutterless structures of planks and tiles, the

sheds and stalls, which our bye lanes, or fish-markets, or river-sides

can supply; tumble them down on the declivity of a bare bald hill; let

the spaces between house and house, thus accidentally determined, be

understood to form streets, winding of course for no reason, and with

no meaning, up and down the town; the roadway always narrow, the

breadth never uniform, the separate houses bulging or retiring below,

as circumstances may have determined, and leaning forward till they

meet overhead;--and you have a good idea of Gallipoli. I question

whether this picture would not nearly correspond to the special seat of

the Muses in ancient times. Learned writers assure us distinctly that

the houses of Athens were for the most part small and mean; that the

streets were crooked and narrow; that the upper stories projected over

the roadway; and that staircases, balustrades, and doors that opened

outwards, obstructed it;--a remarkable coincidence of description. I

do not doubt at all, though history is silent, that that roadway was

jolting to carriages, and all but impassable; and that it was traversed

by drains, as freely as any Turkish town now. Athens seems in these

respects to have been below the average cities of its time. "A

stranger," says an ancient, "might doubt, on the sudden view, if really

he saw Athens."

I grant all this, and much more, if you will; but, recollect, Athens

was the home of the intellectual, and beautiful; not of low mechanical

contrivances, and material organization. Why stop within your lodgings

counting the rents in your wall or the holes in your tiling, when

nature and art call you away? You must put up with such a chamber, and

a table, and a stool, and a sleeping board, any where else in the three

continents; one place does not differ from another indoors; your

magalia in Africa, or your grottos in Syria are not perfection. I

suppose you did not come to Athens to swarm up a ladder, or to grope

about a closet: you came to see and to hear, what hear and see you

could not elsewhere. What food for the intellect is it possible to

procure indoors, that you stay there looking about you? do you think to

read there? where are your books? do you expect to purchase books at

Athens--you are much out in your calculations. True it is, we at this

day, who live in the nineteenth century, have the books of Greece as a

perpetual memorial; and copies there have been, since the time that

they were written; but you need not go to Athens to procure them, nor

would you find them in Athens. Strange to say, strange to the

nineteenth century, that in the age of Plato and Thucydides, there was

not, it is said, a bookshop in the whole place: nor was the book trade

in existence till the very time of Augustus. Libraries, I suspect,

were the bright invention of Attalus or the Ptolemies; I doubt whether

Athens had a library till the reign of Hadrian. It was what the

student gazed on, what he heard, what he caught by the magic of

sympathy, not what he read, which was the education furnished by Athens.

He leaves his narrow lodging early in the morning; and not till night,

if even then, will he return. It is but a crib or kennel,--in which he

sleeps when the weather is inclement or the ground damp; in no respect

a home. And he goes out of doors, not to read the day's newspaper, or

to buy the gay shilling volume, but to imbibe the invisible atmosphere

of genius, and to learn by heart the oral traditions of taste. Out he

goes; and, leaving the tumble-down town behind him, he mounts the

Acropolis to the right, or he turns to the Areopagus on the left. He

goes to the Parthenon to study the sculptures of Phidias; to the temple

of the Dioscuri to see the paintings of Polygnotus. We indeed take our

Sophocles or Aeschylus out of our coat-pocket; but, if our sojourner at

Athens would understand how a tragic poet can write, he must betake

himself to the theatre on the south, and see and hear the drama

literally in action. Or let him go westward to the Agora, and there he

will hear Lysias or Andocides pleading, or Demosthenes haranguing. He

goes farther west still, along the shade of those noble planes, which

Cimon has planted there; and he looks around him at the statues and

porticos and vestibules, each by itself a work of genius and skill,

enough to be the making of another city. He passes through the city

gate, and then he is at the famous Ceramicus; here are the tombs of the

mighty dead; and here, we will suppose, is Pericles himself, the most

elevated, the most thrilling of orators, converting a funeral oration

over the slain into a philosophical panegyric of the living.

Onwards he proceeds still; and now he has come to that still more

celebrated Academe, which has bestowed its own name on Universities

down to this day; and there he sees a sight which will be graven on his

memory till he dies. Many are the beauties of the place, the groves,

and the statues, and the temple, and the stream of the Cephissus

flowing by; many are the lessons which will be taught him day after day

by teacher or by companion; but his eye is just now arrested by one

object; it is the very presence of Plato. He does not hear a word that

he says; he does not care to hear; he asks neither for discourse nor

disputation; what he sees is a whole, complete in itself, not to be

increased by addition, and greater than anything else. It will be a

point in the history of his life; a stay for his memory to rest on, a

burning thought in his heart, a bond of union with men of like mind,

ever afterwards. Such is the spell which the living man exerts on his

fellows, for good or for evil. How nature impels us to lean upon

others, making virtue, or genius, or name, the qualification for our

doing so! A Spaniard is said to have travelled to Italy, simply to see

Livy; he had his fill of gazing, and then went back again home. Had

our young stranger got nothing by his voyage but the sight of the

breathing and moving Plato, had he entered no lecture-room to hear, no

gymnasium to converse, he had got some measure of education, and

something to tell of to his grandchildren.

But Plato is not the only sage, nor the sight of him the only lesson to

be learned in this wonderful suburb. It is the region and the realm of

philosophy. Colleges were the inventions of many centuries later; and

they imply a sort of cloistered life, or at least a life of rule,

scarcely natural to an Athenian. It was the boast of the philosophic

statesman of Athens, that his countrymen achieved by the mere force of

nature and the love of the noble and the great, what other people aimed

at by laborious discipline; and all who came among them were submitted

to the same method of education. We have traced our student on his

wanderings from the Acropolis to the Sacred Way; and now he is in the

region of the schools. No awful arch, no window of many-coloured

lights marks the seats of learning there or elsewhere; philosophy lives

out of doors. No close atmosphere oppresses the brain or inflames the

eyelid; no long session stiffens the limbs. Epicurus is reclining in

his garden; Zeno looks like a divinity in his porch; the restless

Aristotle, on the other side of the city, as if in antagonism to Plato,

is walking his pupils off their legs in his Lyceum by the Ilyssus. Our

student has determined on entering himself as a disciple of

Theophrastus, a teacher of marvellous popularity, who has brought

together two thousand pupils from all parts of the world. He himself

is of Lesbos; for masters, as well as students, come hither from all

regions of the earth,--as befits a University. How could Athens have

collected hearers in such numbers, unless she had selected teachers of

such power? it was the range of territory, which the notion of a

University implies, which furnished both the quantity of the one, and

the quality of the other. Anaxagoras was from Ionia, Carneades from

Africa, Zeno from Cyprus, Protagoras from Thrace, and Gorgias from

Sicily. Andromachus was a Syrian, Proaeresius an Armenian, Hilarius a

Bithynian, Philiscus a Thessalian, Hadrian a Syrian. Rome is

celebrated for her liberality in civil matters; Athens was as liberal

in intellectual. There was no narrow jealousy, directed against a

Professor, because he was not an Athenian; genius and talent were the

qualifications; and to bring them to Athens, was to do homage to it as

a University. There was a brotherhood and a citizenship of mind.

Mind came first, and was the foundation of the academical polity; but

it soon brought along with it, and gathered round itself, the gifts of

fortune and the prizes of life. As time went on, wisdom was not always

sentenced to the bare cloak of Cleanthes; but beginning in rags, it

ended in fine linen. The Professors became honourable and rich; and

the students ranged themselves under their names, and were proud of

calling themselves their countrymen. The University was divided into

four great nations, as the medieval antiquarian would style them; and

in the middle of the fourth century, Proaeresius was the leader or

proctor of the Attic, Hephaestion of the Oriental, Epiphanius of the

Arabic, and Diophantus of the Pontic. Thus the Professors were both

patrons of clients, and hosts and _proxeni_ of strangers and visitors,

as well as masters of the schools: and the Cappadocian, Syrian, or

Sicilian youth who came to one or other of them, would be encouraged to

study by his protection, and to aspire by his example.

Even Plato, when the schools of Athens were not a hundred years old,

was in circumstances to enjoy the _otium cum dignitate_. He had a

villa out at Heraclea; and he left his patrimony to his school, in

whose hands it remained, not only safe, but fructifying, a marvellous

phenomenon in tumultuous Greece, for the long space of eight hundred

years. Epicurus too had the property of the Gardens where he lectured;

and these too became the property of his sect. But in Roman times the

chairs of grammar, rhetoric, politics, and the four philosophies, were

handsomely endowed by the State; some of the Professors were themselves

statesmen or high functionaries, and brought to their favourite study

senatorial rank or Asiatic opulence.

Patrons such as these can compensate to the freshman, in whom we have

interested ourselves, for the poorness of his lodging and the

turbulence of his companions. In every thing there is a better side

and a worse; in every place a disreputable set and a respectable, and

the one is hardly known at all to the other. Men come away from the

same University at this day, with contradictory impressions and

contradictory statements, according to the society they have found

there; if you believe the one, nothing goes on there as it should be:

if you believe the other, nothing goes on as it should _not_. Virtue,

however, and decency are at least in the minority everywhere, and under

some sort of a cloud or disadvantage; and this being the case, it is so

much gain whenever an Herodes Atticus is found, to throw the influence

of wealth and station on the side even of a decorous philosophy. A

consular man, and the heir of an ample fortune, this Herod was content

to devote his life to a professorship, and his fortune to the patronage

of literature. He gave the sophist Polemo about eight thousand pounds,

as the sum is calculated, for three declamations. He built at Athens a

stadium six hundred feet long, entirely of white marble, and capable of

admitting the whole population. His theatre, erected to the memory of

his wife, was made of cedar wood curiously carved. He had two villas,

one at Marathon, the place of his birth, about ten miles from Athens,

the other at Cephissia, at the distance of six; and thither he drew to

him the _élite_, and at times the whole body of the students. Long

arcades, groves of trees, clear pools for the bath, delighted and

recruited the summer visitor. Never was so brilliant a lecture-room as

his evening banqueting-hall; highly connected students from Rome mixed

with the sharp-witted provincial of Greece or Asia Minor; and the

flippant sciolist, and the nondescript visitor, half philosopher, half

tramp, met with a reception, courteous always, but suitable to his

deserts. Herod was noted for his repartees; and we have instances on

record of his setting down, according to the emergency, both the one

and the other.

A higher line, though a rarer one, was that allotted to the youthful

Basil. He was one of those men who seem by a sort of fascination to

draw others around them even without wishing it. One might have deemed

that his gravity and his reserve would have kept them at a distance;

but, almost in spite of himself, he was the centre of a knot of youths,

who, pagans as most of them were, used Athens honestly for the purpose

for which they professed to seek it; and, disappointed and displeased

with the place himself, he seems nevertheless to have been the means of

their profiting by its advantages. One of these was Sophronius, who

afterwards held a high office in the State: Eusebius was another, at

that time the bosom-friend of Sophronius, and afterwards a Bishop.

Celsus too is named, who afterwards was raised to the government of

Cilicia by the Emperor Julian. Julian himself, in the sequel of

unhappy memory, was then at Athens, and known at least to St. Gregory.

Another Julian is also mentioned, who was afterwards commissioner of

the land tax. Here we have a glimpse of the better kind of society

among the students of Athens; and it is to the credit of the parties

composing it, that such young men as Gregory and Basil, men as

intimately connected with Christianity, as they were well known in the

world, should hold so high a place in their esteem and love. When the

two saints were departing, their companions came around them with the

hope of changing their purpose. Basil persevered; but Gregory

relented, and turned back to Athens for a season.

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