II. SITE OF A UNIVERSITY

If we would know what a University is, considered in its elementary

idea, we must betake ourselves to the first and most celebrated home of

European literature and source of European civilization, to the bright

and beautiful Athens,--Athens, whose schools drew to her bosom, and

then sent back again to the business of life, the youth of the Western

World for a long thousand years. Seated on the verge of the continent,

the city seemed hardly suited for the duties of a central metropolis of

knowledge; yet, what it lost in convenience of approach, it gained in

its neighbourhood to the traditions of the mysterious East, and in the

loveliness of the region in which it lay. Hither, then, as to a sort

of ideal land, where all archetypes of the great and the fair were

found in substantial being, and all departments of truth explored, and

all diversities of intellectual power exhibited, where taste and

philosophy were majestically enthroned as in a royal court, where there

was no sovereignty but that of mind, and no nobility but that of

genius, where professors were rulers, and princes did homage, hither

flocked continually from the very corners of the _orbis terrarum_, the

many-tongued generation, just rising, or just risen into manhood, in

order to gain wisdom.

Pisistratus had in an early age discovered and nursed the infant genius

of his people, and Cimon, after the Persian war, had given it a home.

That war had established the naval supremacy of Athens; she had become

an imperial state; and the Ionians, bound to her by the double chain of

kindred and of subjection, were importing into her both their

merchandize and their civilization. The arts and philosophy of the

Asiatic coast were easily carried across the sea, and there was Cimon,

as I have said, with his ample fortune, ready to receive them with due

honours. Not content with patronizing their professors, he built the

first of those noble porticos, of which we hear so much in Athens, and

he formed the groves, which in process of time became the celebrated

Academy. Planting is one of the most graceful, as in Athens it was one

of the most beneficent, of employments. Cimon took in hand the wild

wood, pruned and dressed it, and laid it out with handsome walks and

welcome fountains. Nor, while hospitable to the authors of the city's

civilization, was he ungrateful to the instruments of her prosperity.

His trees extended their cool, umbrageous branches over the merchants,

who assembled in the Agora, for many generations.

Those merchants certainly had deserved that act of bounty; for all the

while their ships had been carrying forth the intellectual fame of

Athens to the western world. Then commenced what may be called her

University existence. Pericles, who succeeded Cimon both in the

government and in the patronage of art, is said by Plutarch to have

entertained the idea of making Athens the capital of federated Greece:

in this he failed, but his encouragement of such men as Phidias and

Anaxagoras led the way to her acquiring a far more lasting sovereignty

over a far wider empire. Little understanding the sources of her own

greatness, Athens would go to war: peace is the interest of a seat of

commerce and the arts; but to war she went; yet to her, whether peace

or war, it mattered not. The political power of Athens waned and

disappeared; kingdoms rose and fell; centuries rolled away,--they did

but bring fresh triumphs to the city of the poet and the sage. There

at length the swarthy Moor and Spaniard were seen to meet the blue-eyed

Gaul; and the Cappadocian, late subject of Mithridates, gazed without

alarm at the haughty conquering Roman. Revolution after revolution

passed over the face of Europe, as well as of Greece, but still she was

there,--Athens, the city of mind,--as radiant, as splendid, as

delicate, as young, as ever she had been.

Many a more fruitful coast or isle is washed by the blue Aegean, many a

spot is there more beautiful or sublime to see, many a territory more

ample; but there was one charm in Attica, which in the same perfection

was nowhere else. The deep pastures of Arcadia, the plain of Argos,

the Thessalian vale, these had not the gift; Boeotia, which lay to its

immediate north, was notorious for its very want of it. The heavy

atmosphere of that Boeotia might be good for vegetation, but it was

associated in popular belief with the dulness of the Boeotian

intellect: on the contrary, the special purity, elasticity, clearness,

and salubrity of the air of Attica, fit concomitant and emblem of its

genius, did that for it which earth did not;---it brought out every

bright hue and tender shade of the landscape over which it was spread,

and would have illuminated the face even of a more bare and rugged

country.

A confined triangle, perhaps fifty miles its greatest length, and

thirty its greatest breadth; two elevated rocky barriers, meeting at an

angle; three prominent mountains, commanding the plain,--Parnes,

Pentelicus, and Hymettus; an unsatisfactory soil; some streams, not

always full;--such is about the report which the agent of a London

company would have made of Attica. He would report that the climate

was mild; the hills were limestone; there was plenty of good marble;

more pasture land than at first survey might have been expected,

sufficient certainly for sheep and goats; fisheries productive; silver

mines once, but long since worked out; figs fair; oil first-rate;

olives in profusion. But what he would not think of noting down, was,

that that olive tree was so choice in nature and so noble in shape,

that it excited a religious veneration; and that it took so kindly to

the light soil, as to expand into woods upon the open plain, and to

climb up and fringe the hills. He would not think of writing word to

his employers, how that clear air, of which I have spoken, brought out,

yet blended and subdued the colours on the marble, till they had a

softness and harmony, for all their richness, which in a picture looks

exaggerated, yet is after all within the truth. He would not tell, how

that same delicate and brilliant atmosphere freshened up the pale

olive, till the olive forgot its monotony, and its cheek glowed like

the arbutus or beech of the Umbrian hills. He would say nothing of the

thyme and thousand fragrant herbs which carpeted Hymettus; he would

hear nothing of the hum of its bees; nor take much account of the rare

flavour of its honey, since Gozo and Minorca were sufficient for the

English demand. He would look over the Aegean from the height he had

ascended; he would follow with his eye the chain of islands, which,

starting from the Simian headland, seemed to offer the fabled

divinities of Attica, when they would visit their Ionian cousins, a

sort of viaduct thereto across the sea; but that fancy would not occur

to him, nor any admiration of the dark violet billows with their white

edges down below; nor of those graceful, fan-like jets of silver upon

the rocks, which slowly rise aloft like water spirits from the deep,

then shiver, and break, and spread, and shroud themselves, and

disappear, in a soft mist of foam; nor of the gentle, incessant heaving

and panting of the whole liquid plain; nor of the long waves, keeping

steady time, like a line of soldiery, as they resound upon the hollow

shore,--he would not deign to notice that restless living element at

all, except to bless his stars that he was not upon it. Nor the

distinct detail, nor the refined colouring, nor the graceful outline

and roseate golden hue of the jutting crags, nor the bold shadows cast

from Otus or Laurium by the declining sun;--our agent of a mercantile

firm would not value these matters even at a low figure. Rather we

must turn for the sympathy we seek to yon pilgrim student come from a

semi-barbarous land to that small corner of the earth, as to a shrine,

where he might take his fill of gazing on those emblems and

coruscations of invisible unoriginate perfection. It was the stranger

from a remote province, from Britain or from Mauritania, who in a scene

so different from that of his chilly, woody swamps, or of his fiery

choking sands, learned at once what a real University must be, by

coming to understand the sort of country, which was its suitable home.

Nor was this all that a University required, and found in Athens. No

one, even there, could live on poetry. If the students at that famous

place had nothing better than bright hues and soothing sounds, they

would not have been able or disposed to turn their residence there to

much account. Of course they must have the means of living, nay, in a

certain sense, of enjoyment; if Athens was to be an Alma Mater at the

time, or to remain afterwards a pleasant thought in their memory. And

so they had: be it recollected Athens was a port, and a mart of trade,

perhaps the first in Greece; and this was very much to the point, when

a number of strangers were ever flocking to it, whose combat was to be

with intellectual, not physical difficulties, and who claimed to have

their bodily wants supplied, that they might be at leisure to set about

furnishing their minds. Now, barren as was the soil of Attica, and

bare the face of the country, yet it had only too many resources for an

elegant, nay luxurious abode there. So abundant were the imports of

the place, that it was a common saying, that the productions, which

were found singly elsewhere, were brought all together in Athens. Corn

and wine, the staple of subsistence in such a climate, came from the

isles of the Aegean; fine wool and carpeting from Asia Minor; slaves,

as, now, from the Euxine, and timber too; and iron and brass from the

coasts of the Mediterranean. The Athenian did not condescend to

manufactures himself, but encouraged them in others; and a population

of foreigners caught at the lucrative occupation both for home

consumption and for exportation. Their cloth, and other textures for

dress and furniture, and their hardware--for instance, armour--were in

great request. Labour was cheap; stone and marble in plenty; and the

taste and skill, which at first were devoted to public buildings, as

temples and porticos, were in course of time applied to the mansions of

public men. If nature did much for Athens, it is undeniable that art

did much more.

Here some one will interrupt me with the remark: "By the bye, where are

we, and whither are we going?--what has all this to do with a

University? at least what has it to do with education? It is

instructive doubtless; but still how much has it to do with your

subject?" Now I beg to assure the reader that I am most

conscientiously employed upon my subject; and I should have thought

every one would have seen this: however, since the objection is made, I

may be allowed to pause awhile, and show distinctly the drift of what I

have been saying, before I go farther. What has this to do with my

subject! why, the question of the site is the very first that comes

into consideration, when a _Stadium Generale_ is contemplated; for that

site should be a liberal and noble one; who will deny it? All

authorities agree in this, and very little reflection will be

sufficient to make it clear. I recollect a conversation I once had on

this very subject with a very eminent man. I was a youth of eighteen,

and was leaving my University for the Long Vacation, when I found

myself in company in a public conveyance with a middle-aged person,

whose face was strange to me. However, it was the great academical

luminary of the day, whom afterwards I knew very well. Luckily for me,

I did not suspect it; and luckily too, it was a fancy of his, as his

friends knew, to make himself on easy terms especially with stage-coach

companions. So, what with my flippancy and his condescension, I

managed to hear many things which were novel to me at the time; and one

point which he was strong upon, and was evidently fond of urging, was

the material pomp and circumstance which should environ a great seat of

learning. He considered it was worth the consideration of the

government, whether Oxford should not stand in a domain of its own. An

ample range, say four miles in diameter, should be turned into wood and

meadow, and the University should be approached on all sides by a

magnificent park, with fine trees in groups and groves and avenues, and

with glimpses and views of the fair city, as the traveller drew near

it. There is nothing surely absurd in the idea, though it would cost a

round sum to realise it. What has a better claim to the purest and

fairest possessions of nature, than the seat of wisdom? So thought my

coach companion; and he did but express the tradition of ages and the

instinct of mankind.

For instance, take the great University of Paris. That famous school

engrossed as its territory the whole south bank of the Seine, and

occupied one half, and that the pleasanter half, of the city. King

Louis had the island pretty well as his own,--it was scarcely more than

a fortification; and the north of the river was given over to the

nobles and citizens to do what they could with its marshes; but the

eligible south, rising from the stream, which swept around its base, to

the fair summit of St. Genevieve, with its broad meadows, its vineyards

and its gardens, and with the sacred elevation of Montmartre

confronting it, all this was the inheritance of the University. There

was that pleasant Pratum, stretching along the river's bank, in which

the students for centuries took their recreation, which Alcuin seems to

mention in his farewell verses to Paris, and which has given a name to

the great Abbey of St. Germain-des-Prés. For long years it was devoted

to the purposes of innocent and healthy enjoyment; but evil times came

on the University; disorder arose within its precincts, and the fair

meadow became the scene of party brawls; heresy stalked through Europe,

and Germany and England no longer sending their contingent of students,

a heavy debt was the consequence to the academical body. To let their

land was the only resource left to them: buildings rose upon it, and

spread along the green sod, and the country at length became town.

Great was the grief and indignation of the doctors and masters, when

this catastrophe occurred. "A wretched sight," said the Proctor of the

German nation, "a wretched sight, to witness the sale of that ancient

manor, whither the Muses were wont to wander for retirement and

pleasure. Whither shall the youthful student now betake himself, what

relief will he find for his eyes, wearied with intense reading, now

that the pleasant stream is taken from him?" Two centuries and more

have passed since this complaint was uttered; and time has shown that

the outward calamity, which it recorded, was but the emblem of the

great moral revolution, which was to follow; till the institution

itself has followed its green meadows, into the region of things which

once were and now are not.

And in like manner, when they were first contemplating a University in

Belgium, some centuries ago, "Many," says Lipsius, "suggested Mechlin,

as an abode salubrious and clean, but Louvain was preferred, as for

other reasons, so because no city seemed from the disposition of place

and people, more suitable for learned leisure. Who will not approve

the decision? Can a site be healthier or more pleasant? The

atmosphere pure and cheerful; the spaces open and delightful; meadows,

fields, vines, groves, nay, I may say, a _rus in urbe_. Ascend and

walk round the walls; what do you look down upon? Does not the

wonderful and delightful variety smooth the brow and soothe the mind?

You have corn, and apples, and grapes; sheep and oxen; and birds

chirping or singing. Now carry your feet or your eyes beyond the

walls; there are streamlets, the river meandering along;

country-houses, convents, the superb fortress; copses or woods fill up

the scene, and spots for simple enjoyment." And then he breaks out

into poetry:

Salvete Athenae nostrae, Athens Belgicae,

Te Gallus, te Germanus, et te Sarmata

Invisit, et Britannus, et te duplicis

Hispaniae alumnus, etc.

Extravagant, then, and wayward as might be the thought of my learned

coach companion, when, in the nineteenth century, he imagined,

Norman-wise, to turn a score of villages into a park or pleasaunce,

still, the waywardness of his fancy is excused by the justness of his

principle; for certainly, such as he would have made it, a University

ought to be. Old Antony-a-Wood, discoursing on the demands of a

University, had expressed the same sentiment long before him; as Horace

in ancient times, with reference to Athens itself, when he spoke of

seeking truth "in the _groves_ of Academe." And to Athens, as will be

seen, Wood himself appeals, when he would discourse of Oxford. Among

"those things which are required to make a University," he puts down,--

"First, a good and pleasant site, where there is a wholesome and

temperate constitution of the air; composed with waters, springs or

wells, woods and pleasant fields; which being obtained, those

commodities are enough to invite students to stay and abide there. As

the Athenians in ancient times were happy for their conveniences, so

also were the Britons, when by a remnant of the Grecians that came

amongst them, they or their successors selected such a place in Britain

to plant a school or schools therein, which for its pleasant situation

was afterwards called Bellositum or Bellosite, now Oxford, privileged

with all those conveniences before mentioned."

By others the local advantages of that University have been more

philosophically analyzed;--for instance, with a reference to its

position in the middle of southern England; its situation on several

islands in a broad plain, through which many streams flowed; the

surrounding marshes, which, in times when it was needed, protected the

city from invaders; its own strength as a military position; its easy

communication with London, nay with the sea, by means of the Thames;

while the London fortifications hindered pirates from ascending the

stream, which all the time was so ready and convenient for a descent.

Alas! for centuries past that city has lost its prime honour and boast,

as a servant and soldier of the Truth. Once named the second school of

the Church, second only to Paris, the foster-mother of St. Edmund, St.

Richard, St. Thomas Cantilupe, the theatre of great intellects, of

Scotus the subtle Doctor, of Hales the irrefragable, of Occam the

special, of Bacon the admirable, of Middleton the solid, and of

Bradwardine the profound, Oxford has now lapsed to that level of mere

human loveliness, which in its highest perfection we admire in Athens.

Nor would it have a place, now or hereafter, in these pages, nor would

it occur to me to speak its name, except that, even in its sorrowful

deprivation, it still retains so much of that outward lustre, which,

like the brightness on the prophet's face, ought to be a ray from an

illumination within, as to afford me an illustration of the point on

which I am engaged, viz., what should be the material dwelling-place

and appearance, the local circumstances, and the secular concomitants

of a great University. Pictures are drawn in tales of romance, of

spirits seemingly too beautiful in their fall to be really fallen, and

the holy Pope at Rome, Gregory, in fact, and not in fiction, looked

upon the blue eyes and golden hair of the fierce Saxon youth in the

slave market, and pronounced them Angels, not Angles; and the spell

which this once loyal daughter of the Church still exercises upon the

foreign visitor, even now when her true glory is departed, suggests to

us how far more majestic and more touching, how brimful of

indescribable influence would be the presence of a University, which

was planted within, not without Jerusalem,--an influence, potent as her

truth is strong, wide as her sway is world-wide, and growing, not

lessening, by the extent of space over which its attraction would be

exerted.

Let the reader then listen to the words of the last learned German, who

has treated of Oxford, and judge for himself if they do not bear me

out, in what I have said of the fascination which the very face and

smile of a University possess over those who come within its range.

"There is scarce a spot in the world," says Huber, "that bears an

historical stamp so deep and varied as Oxford; where so many noble

memorials of moral and material power coöperating to an honourable end,

meet the eye all at once. He who can be proof against the strong

emotions which the whole aspect and genius of the place tend to

inspire, must be dull, thoughtless, uneducated, or of very perverted

views. Others will bear us witness, that, even side by side with the

Eternal Rome, the Alma Mater of Oxford may be fitly named, as producing

a deep, a lasting, and peculiar impression.

"In one of the most fertile districts of the Queen of the Seas, whom

nature has so richly blessed, whom for centuries past no footstep of

foreign armies has desecrated, lies a broad green vale, where the

Cherwell and the Isis mingle their full, clear waters. Here and there

primeval elms and oaks overshadow them; while in their various windings

they encircle gardens, meadows, and fields, villages, cottages,

farm-houses, and country-seats, in motley mixture. In the midst rises

a mass of mighty buildings, the general character of which varies

between convent, palace, and castle. Some few Gothic church-towers and

Romaic domes, it is true, break through the horizontal lines; yet the

general impression at a distance and at first sight, is essentially

different from that of any of the towns of the middle ages. The

outlines are far from being so sharp, so angular, so irregular, so

fantastical; a certain softness, a peculiar repose, reigns in those

broader, terrace-like rising masses. Only in the creations of Claude

Lorraine or Poussin could we expect to find a spot to compare with the

prevailing character of this picture, especially when lit up by a

favourable light. The principal masses consist of Colleges, the

University buildings, and the city churches; and by the side of these

the city itself is lost on distant view. But on entering the streets,

we find around us all the signs of an active and prosperous trade.

Rich and elegant shops in profusion afford a sight to be found nowhere

but in England; but with all this glitter and show, they sink into a

modest, and, as it were, a menial attitude, by the side of the grandly

severe memorials of the higher intellectual life, memorials which have

been growing out of that life from almost the beginning of Christianity

itself. Those rich and elegant shops are, as it were, the domestic

offices of these palaces of learning, which ever rivet the eye of the

observer, while all besides seems perforce to be subservient to them.

Each of the larger and more ancient Colleges looks like a separate

whole--an entire town, whose walls and monuments proclaim the vigorous

growth of many centuries; and the town itself has happily escaped the

lot of modern beautifying, and in this respect harmonizes with the

Colleges."

There are those who, having felt the influence of this ancient School,

and being smit with its splendour and its sweetness, ask wistfully, if

never again it is to be Catholic, or whether at least some footing for

Catholicity may not be found there. All honour and merit to the

charitable and zealous hearts who so inquire! Nor can we dare to tell

what in time to come may be the inscrutable purposes of that grace,

which is ever more comprehensive than human hope and aspiration. But

for me, from the day I left its walls, I never, for good or bad, have

had anticipation of its future; and never for a moment have I had a

wish to see again a place, which I have never ceased to love, and where

I lived for nearly thirty years. Nay, looking at the general state of

things at this day, I desiderate for a School of the Church, if an

additional School is to be granted to us, a more central position than

Oxford has to show. Since the age of Alfred and of the first Henry,

the world has grown, from the west and south of Europe, into four or

five continents; and I look for a city less inland than that old

sanctuary, and a country closer upon the highway of the seas. I look

towards a land both old and young; old in its Christianity, young in

the promise of its future; a nation, which received grace before the

Saxon came to Britain, and which has never quenched it; a Church, which

comprehends in its history the rise and fall of Canterbury and York,

which Augustine and Paulinus found, and Pole and Fisher left behind

them. I contemplate a people which has had a long night, and will have

an inevitable day. I am turning my eyes towards a hundred years to

come, and I dimly see the island I am gazing on, become the road of

passage and union between two hemispheres, and the centre of the world.

I see its inhabitants rival Belgium in populousness, France in vigour,

and Spain in enthusiasm; and I see England taught by advancing years to

exercise in its behalf that good sense which is her characteristic

towards every one else. The capital of that prosperous and hopeful

land is situate in a beautiful bay and near a romantic region; and in

it I see a flourishing University, which for a while had to struggle

with fortune, but which, when its first founders and servants were dead

and gone, had successes far exceeding their anxieties. Thither, as to

a sacred soil, the home of their fathers, and the fountain-head of

their Christianity, students are flocking from East, West, and South,

from America and Australia and India, from Egypt and Asia Minor, with

the ease and rapidity of a locomotion not yet discovered, and last,

though not least, from England,--all speaking one tongue, all owning

one faith, all eager for one large true wisdom; and thence, when their

stay is over, going back again to carry over all the earth "peace to

men of good will."

Harvard Classics Volume 28 Essays English and American · 第 18 / 85 题