The next stage of the Leblanc process is the manufacture of "black ash,"

or crude sodium carbonate. This is usually done in large cylindrical

revolving furnaces, through, which flames from a fire-grate, or from the

burning of gaseous fuel, pass; the waste heat is utilised for boiling

down "black ash" liquor, obtained by lixiviating the black ash. A

mixture of salt-cake, limestone or chalk (calcium carbonate), and

powdered coal or coal slack is charged into the revolving cylinder;

during the process the mass becomes agglomerated, and the final product

is what is known as a "black-ash ball," consisting chiefly of crude

sodium carbonate and calcium sulphide, but containing smaller quantities

of many other substances. The soda ash or sodium carbonate is obtained

from the black ash by lixiviating with water, and after various

purification processes, the solution is boiled down, as previously

stated, by the waste heat of the black-ash furnace. The alkali is sold

in various forms as soda ash, soda crystals, washing soda, etc.

Caustic soda is manufactured from solution of carbonate of soda by

causticising, that is, treatment with caustic lime or quicklime.

It will have been noticed that one of the chief reagents in the Leblanc

process is the sulphur used in the form of brimstone or as pyrites for

making vitriol in the first stage; this sulphur goes through the entire

process; from the vitriol it goes to form a constituent of the

salt-cake, and afterwards of the calcium sulphide contained in the black

ash. This calcium sulphide remains as an insoluble mass when the

carbonate of soda is extracted from the black ash, and forms the chief

constituent of the alkali waste, which until the year 1880 could be seen

in large heaps around chemical works. Now, however, by means of

treatment with kiln gases containing carbonic acid, the sulphur is

extracted from the waste in the form of hydrogen sulphide, which is

burnt to form vitriol, or is used for making pure sulphur; and so what

was once waste is now a source of profit.

_Ammonia-Soda Process of Alkali Manufacture._--This process depends

upon the fact that when carbonic acid is forced, under pressure, into a

saturated solution of ammonia and common salt, sodium bicarbonate is

precipitated, whilst ammonium chloride or "sal-ammoniac" remains

dissolved in the solution. The reaction was discovered in 1836 by a

Scotch chemist named John Thom, and small quantities of ammonia-soda

were made at that time by the firm of McNaughton & Thom. The successful

carrying out of the process on the large scale depends principally upon

the complete recovery of the expensive reagent, ammonia, and this

problem was only solved within comparatively recent years by Solvay. The

process has been perfected and worked with great success in England by

Messrs. Brunner, Mond, & Co., and has proved a successful rival to the

Leblanc process.

Alkali is also produced to some extent by electrolytic processes,

depending upon the splitting up of a solution of common salt into

caustic soda and chlorine by the use of an electric current.

LECTURE VI

BORIC ACID, BORAX, SOAP

_Boric Acid._--At ordinary temperatures and under ordinary conditions

boric acid is a very weak acid, but like silicic and some other acids,

its relative powers of affinity and combination become very much changed

at high temperatures; thus, fused and strongly heated boric acid can

decompose carbonates and even sulphates, and yet a current of so weak an

acid as hydrogen sulphide, passed through a strong solution of borax,

will decompose it and set free boric acid. Boric acid is obtained

chiefly from Italy. In a tract of country called the Maremma of Tuscany,

embracing an area of about forty square miles, are numerous chasms and

crevices, from which hot vapour and heated gases and springs of water

spurt. The steam issuing from these hot springs contains small

quantities of boric acid, that acid being one of those solid substances

distilling to some extent in a current of steam. The steam vapours thus

bursting forth, owing to some kind of constant volcanic disturbance, are

also more or less laden with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, communicating a

very ill odour to the neighbourhood. These phenomena were at first

looked upon by the people as the work of the devil, and priestly

exorcisms were in considerable request in the hope of quelling them,

very much as a great deal of the mere speech-making at the present time

in England on foreign competition and its evils, and the dulness of

trade, the artificial combinations to keep up prices, to reduce wages,

general lamentation, etc., are essayed in the attempt to charm away bad

trade. At length a kind of prophet arose of a very practical character

in the form of the late Count Lardarel, who, mindful of the fact that

the chemist Höffer, in the time of the Grand Duke Leopold I., had

discovered boric acid in the volcanic steam jets, looked hopefully

beyond the exorcisms of the priests and the superstitions of the people

to a possible blessing contained in what appeared to be an unholy

confusion of Nature. He constructed tanks of from 100 to 1000 ft. in

diameter and 7 to 20 ft. in depth, of such a kind that the steam jets

were surrounded by or contained in them, and thus the liquors formed by

condensation became more and more concentrated. These tanks were

arranged at different levels, so that the liquors could be run off from

one to the other, and finally to settling cisterns. Subsequently the

strong liquors were run to lead-lined, wooden vats, in which the boric

acid was crystallised out. Had the industry depended on the use of fuel

it could never have developed, but Count Lardarel ingeniously utilised

the heat of the steam for all the purposes, and neither coal nor wood

was required. Where would that Tuscan boric acid industry have been now

had merely the lamentations of landowners, fears of the people, and

exorcisms of the priests been continued? Instead of being the work of

the arch-enemy of mankind, was not it rather an incitement to a somewhat

high and difficult step in an upward direction towards the attainment,

on a higher platform of knowledge and skill, of a blessing for the whole

province of Tuscany? What was true in the history of that industry and

its development is every whit as true of the much-lamented slackening of

trade through foreign competition or other causes now in this country,

and coming home to yourselves in the hat-manufacturing industry. The

higher platform to which it was somewhat difficult to step up, but upon

which the battle must be fought and the victory won, was one of a higher

scientific and technological education and training. The chemist Höffer

made the discovery of boric acid in the vapours, they would no doubt

take note; but Höffer went no further; and it needed the man of both

educated and practical mind like Count Lardarel to turn the discovery to

account and extract the blessing. In like manner it was clear that in

our educational schemes for the benefit of the people, there must not

only be the scientific investigator of abstract truth, but also the

scientific technologist to point the way to the practical realisation of

tangible profit. Moreover, and a still more important truth, it is the

scientific education of the proprietors and heads we want--educated

capital rather than educated workmen.

_Borax._--A good deal of the Tuscan boric acid is used in France for the

manufacture of borax, which is a sodium salt of boric acid. Borax is

also manufactured from boronitrocalcite, a calcium salt of boric acid,

which is found in Chili and other parts of South America. The crude

boronitrocalcite or "tiza" is boiled with sodium carbonate solution,

and, after settling, the borax is obtained by crystallisation. Borax

itself is found in California and Nevada, U.S.A., and also in Peru,

Ceylon, China, Persia, and Thibet. The commercial product is obtained

from the native borax (known as "tincal") by dissolving in water and

allowing the solution to crystallise. The Peruvian borax sometimes

contains nitre. For testing the purity of refined borax the following

simple tests will usually suffice. A solution of the borax is made

containing 1 part of borax to 50 parts of water, and small portions of

the solution are tested as follows: _Heavy metals_ (_lead_, _copper_,

etc.).--On passing sulphuretted hydrogen into the solution, no

coloration or precipitate should be produced. _Calcium Salts._--The

solution should not give a precipitate with ammonium oxalate solution.

_Carbonates._--The solution should not effervesce on addition of nitric

or hydrochloric acid. _Chlorides._--No appreciable precipitate should

be produced on addition of silver nitrate solution and nitric acid.

_Sulphates._--No appreciable precipitate should be produced on adding

hydrochloric acid and barium chloride. _Iron._--50 c.c. of the solution

should not immediately be coloured blue by 0·5 c.c. of potassium

ferrocyanide solution.

_Soap._--Soap is a salt in the chemical sense, and this leads to a wider

definition of the term "salt" or "saline" compound. Fats and oils, from

which soaps are manufactured, are a kind of _quasi_ salts, composed of a

fatty acid and a chemical constant, if I may use the term, in the shape

of base, namely, glycerin. When these fats and oils, often called

glycerides, are heated with alkali, soda, a true salt of the fatty acid

and soda is formed, and this is the soap, whilst the glycerin remains

behind in the "spent soap lye." Now glycerin is soluble in water

containing dissolved salt (brine), whilst soap is insoluble, though

soluble in pure water. The mixture of soap and glycerin produced from

the fat and soda is therefore treated with brine, a process called

"cutting the soap." The soap separates out in the solid form as a curdy

mass, which can be easily separated. Certain soaps are able to absorb a

large quantity of water, and yet appear quite solid, and in purchasing

large quantities of soap it is necessary, therefore, to determine the

amount of water present. This can be easily done by weighing out ten or

twenty grams of the soap, cut in small pieces, into a porcelain dish and

heating over a gas flame, whilst keeping the soap continually stirred,

until a glass held over the dish no longer becomes blurred by escaping

steam. After cooling, the dry soap is weighed, and the loss of weight

represents the amount of moisture. I have known cases where soap

containing about 83 per cent. of water has been sold at the full market

price. Some soaps also contain more alkali than is actually combined

with the fatty acids of the soap, and that excess alkali is injurious in

washing silks and scouring wool, and is also not good for the skin. The

presence of this free or excess alkali can be at once detected by

rubbing a little phenolphthalein solution on to the freshly-cut surface

of a piece of soap; if free alkali be present, a red colour will be

produced.

LECTURE VII

SHELLAC, WOOD SPIRIT, AND THE STIFFENING AND PROOFING PROCESS

_Shellac._--The resin tribe, of which shellac is a member, comprises

vegetable products of a certain degree of similarity. They are mostly

solid, glassy-looking substances insoluble in water, but soluble in

alcohol and wood spirit. In many cases the alcoholic solutions show an

acid reaction. The resins are partly soluble in alkalis, with formation

of a kind of alkali salts which we may call resin-soaps.

Shellac is obtained from the resinous incrustation produced on the bark

of the twigs and branches of various tropical trees by the puncture of

the female "lac insect" (_Taccardia lacca_). The lac is removed from the

twigs by "beating" in water; the woody matter floats to the surface, and

the resin sinks to the bottom, and when removed forms what is known as

"seed-lac." Formerly, the solution, which contains the colouring matter

dissolved from the crude "stick-lac," was evaporated for recovery of the

so-called "lac-dye," but the latter is no longer used technically. The

seed-lac is bleached by boiling with sodium or potassium carbonate,

alum, or borax, and then, if it is not pale enough, is further bleached

by exposure to sunlight. It is now dried, melted, and mixed with a

certain proportion of rosin or of orpiment (a sulphide of arsenic)

according to the purpose for which it is desired. After further

operations of melting and straining, the lac is melted and spread into

thin sheets to form ordinary shellac, or is melted and dropped on to a

smooth surface to form "button-lac." Ordinary shellac almost invariably

contains some rosin, but good button-lac is free from this substance.

The presence of 5 per cent. of rosin in shellac can be detected by

dissolving in a little alcohol, pouring the solution into water, and

drying the fine impalpable powder which separates. This powder is

extracted with petroleum spirit, and the solution shaken with water

containing a trace of copper acetate. If rosin be present, the petroleum

spirit will be coloured emerald-green.

Borax, soda crystals, and ammonia are all used to dissolve shellac, and

it may be asked: Which of these is least injurious to wool? and why? How

is their action modified by the presence of dilute sulphuric acid in the

wool? I would say that soda crystals and ammonia are alkalis, and if

used strong, are sure to do a certain amount of injury to the fibre of

wool, and more if used hot than cold. Of the two, the ammonia will have

the least effect, especially if dilute, but borax is better than either.

The influence of a little sulphuric acid in the wool would be in the

direction of neutralising some of the ammonia or soda, and shellac, if

dissolved in the alkalis, would be to some extent precipitated on the

fibre, unless the alkali, soda or ammonia, were present in sufficient

excess to neutralise that sulphuric acid and to leave a sufficient

balance to keep the shellac in solution. Borax, which is a borate of

soda, would be so acted on by the sulphuric acid that some boric acid

would be set free, the sulphuric acid robbing some of that borax of its

soda. This boric acid would not be nearly so injurious to wool as

carbonate of soda or ammonia would.

The best solvent for shellac, however, in the preparation of the

stiffening and proofing mixture for hats, is probably wood spirit or

methylated spirit. A solution of shellac in wood spirit is indeed used

for the spirit-proofing of silk hats, and to some extent of felt hats,

and on the whole the best work, I believe, is done with it. Moreover,

borax is not a cheap agent, and being non-volatile it is all left behind

in the proofed material, whereas wood spirit or methylated spirit is a

volatile liquid, _i.e._ a liquid easily driven off in vapour, and after

application to the felt it may be almost all recovered again for re-use.

In this way I conceive the use of wood spirit would be both more

effective and also cheaper than that of borax, besides being most

suitable in the case of any kind of dyes and colours to be subsequently

applied to the hats.

_Wood Spirit._--Wood spirit, the pure form of which is methyl alcohol,

is one of the products of the destructive distillation of wood. The wood

is distilled in large iron retorts connected to apparatus for condensing

the distillation products. The heating is conducted slowly at first, so

that the maximum yield of the valuable products--wood acid (acetic acid)

and wood spirit--which distil at a low temperature, is obtained. When

the condensed products are allowed to settle, they separate into two

distinct layers, the lower one consisting of a thick, very dark tar,

whilst the upper one, much larger in quantity, is the crude wood acid

(containing also the wood spirit), and is reddish-yellow or

reddish-brown in colour. This crude wood acid is distilled, and the wood

spirit which distils off first is collected separately from the acetic

acid which afterwards comes over. The acid is used for the preparation

of alumina and iron mordants (see next lecture), or is neutralised with

lime, forming grey acetate of lime, from which, subsequently, pure

acetic acid or acetone is prepared. The crude wood spirit is mixed with

milk of lime, and after standing for several hours is distilled in a

rectifying still. The distillate is diluted with water, run off from any

oily impurities which are separated, and re-distilled once or twice

after treatment with quicklime.

_Stiffening and Proofing Process._--Before proceeding to discuss the

stiffening and proofing of hat forms or "bodies," it will be well to

point out that it was in thoroughly grasping the importance of a

rational and scientific method of carrying out this process that

Continental hat manufacturers had been able to steal a march upon their

English rivals in competition as to a special kind of hat which sold

well on the Continent. There are, or ought to be, three aims in the

process of proofing and stiffening, all the three being of equal

importance. These are: first, to waterproof the hat-forms; second, to

stiffen them at the same time and by the same process; and the third,

the one the importance of which I think English hat manufacturers have

frequently overlooked, at least in the past, is to so proof and stiffen

the hat-forms as to leave them in a suitable condition for the

subsequent dyeing process. In proofing the felt, the fibres become

varnished over with a kind of glaze which is insoluble in water, and

this varnish or proof is but imperfectly removed from the ends of the

fibres on the upper surface of the felt. The consequence is a too slight

penetration of the dyestuff into the inner pores of the fibres; indeed,

in the logwood black dyeing of such proofed felt a great deal of the

colour becomes precipitated on the outside of the fibres--a kind of

process of "smudging-on" of a black pigment taking place. The subsequent

"greening" of the black hats after a short period of wear is simply due

to the ease with which such badly fixed dye rubs off, washes off, or

wears off, the brownish or yellowish substratum which gradually comes to

light, causing a greenish shade to at length appear. If we examine under

the microscope a pure unproofed fur fibre, its characteristic structure

is quite visible. Examination of an unproofed fibre dyed with logwood

black shows again the same characteristic structure with the dye inside

the fibre, colouring it a beautiful bluish-grey tint, the inner cellular

markings being black. A proofed fur fibre, on the other hand, when

examined under the microscope, is seen to be covered with a kind of

translucent glaze, which completely envelops it, and prevents the

beautiful markings showing the scaly structure of the fibre from being

seen. Finally, if we examine microscopically a proofed fibre which has

been dyed, or which we have attempted to dye, with logwood black, we

find that the fibre presents an appearance similar to that of rope which

has been drawn through some black pigment or black mud, and then dried.

It is quite plain that no lustrous appearance or good "finish" can be

expected from such material. Now how did the Continental hat

manufacturers achieve their success, both as regards dyeing either with

logwood black or with coal-tar colours, and also getting a high degree

of "finish"? They attained their object by rubbing the proofing varnish

on the inside of the hat bodies, in some cases first protecting the

outside with a gum-varnish soluble in water but resisting the

lac-varnish rubbed inside. Thus the proofing could never reach the

outside. On throwing the hat bodies, thus proofed by a logical and

scientific process, into the dye-bath, the gums on the outer surface are

dissolved and removed, and the dye strikes into a pure, clean fibre,

capable of a high degree of finish. This process, however, whilst very

good for the softer hats used on the Continent, is not so satisfactory

for the harder, stiffer headgear demanded in Great Britain. What was

needed was a process which would allow of a through-and-through proofing

and stiffening, and also of satisfactory dyeing of the stiffened and

proofed felt. This was accomplished by a process patented in 1887 by Mr.

F.W. Cheetham, and called the "veneering" process. The hat bodies,

proofed as hard as usual, are thrown into a "bumping machine" containing

hot water rendered faintly acid with sulphuric acid, and mixed with

short-staple fur or wool, usually of a finer quality than that of which

the hat bodies are composed. The hot acid water promotes in a high

degree the felting powers of the short-staple wool or fur, and, to a

lesser extent, the thinly proofed ends of the fibres projecting from

the surfaces of the proofed hat-forms. Thus the short-staple wool or fur

felts itself on to the fibres already forming part of the hat bodies,

and a new layer of pure, unproofed wool or fur is gradually wrought on

to the proofed surface. The hat-forms are then taken out and washed, and

can be dyed with the greatest ease and with excellent results, as will

be seen from the accompanying illustration (see Fig. 15). This

successful invention emphasises the value of the microscope in the

study of processes connected with textile fibres. I would strongly

advise everyone interested in hat manufacturing or similar industries to

make a collection of wool and fur fibres, and mount them on microscope

slides so as to form a kind of index collection for reference.

[Illustration: FIG. 15.

1. Natural wool fibre unproofed.

2. Wool fibre showing proof on surface, filling up the cells

and rendering the same dye-proof.

3. Fur fibre from surface of veneered felt, showing dye

deposited in cells and on the surface, bright and lustrous.

4. Wool fibre as in No. 2, with dye deposited on surface of

proof.

5. Section of proofed and veneered body, showing unproofed

surface.

6. Section of proofed body without "veneer."]

LECTURE VIII

MORDANTS: THEIR NATURE AND USE

The name or word "mordant" indicates the empiricism, or our old friend

"the rule of thumb," of the age in which it was first created and used.

It serves as a landmark of that age, which, by the way, needed

landmarks, for it was an age of something between scientific twilight

and absolute darkness. _Morder_ in French, derived from the Latin

_mordere_, means "to bite," and formerly the users of mordants in dyeing

and printing believed their action to be merely a mechanical action,

that is, that they exerted a biting or corroding influence, serving to

open the pores of the fabrics, and thus to give more ready ingress to

the colour or dye.

The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association · 第 4 / 11 段