SUGHEIT.
18th August. The passage of the Karakorum mountains effected--and no
great feat either, as the heavier work had been already accomplished
'en route.' On turning out of my tent this morning, everything
congealable was frozen. I was informed that a horse was down very ill,
and went to see him; and there the poor creature lay in agony, a nice
creature in good condition, which I had noticed as one of my best.
There he lay struggling, the steam of the death-sweat exhaling on the
cold frosty air: his nostrils were full of blood. Alas! I could do
nothing for him. And even while I turned to move away, death seized
him, his teeth set, an universal shudder convulsed him, his legs were
stretched out stark and stiff, and with a hollow groan he expired.
Poor creature! it was a distressing sight. I attribute his death to
inflammation from the severe cold. This is the second casualty, as
I had to consent to the maimed goat being put out of its misery at
Bursey: its moans were shocking. The coolies made a good meal of the
poor thing. And so I added my contribution to the piles of bones at
this melancholy spot.
Some six miles of tolerable travelling, mostly along the watercourse,
brought us to the foot of the Karakorum, up which a portion of the
winding path was seen, nothing formidable about it. I breakfasted, and
then rode up the mountain, pausing every twenty paces or so to breathe
the nags. Here we passed our mercantile companions who had given us the
go-by, when at breakfast. A zyarat--a pile of stones with some rags
on sticks--was on the top of the pass. I thought it was Buddhist, and
rebuked Abdool for doing reverence to it, but was informed that it was
a Mahomedan pir. We descended into a level valley, watered by a stream
which Abdool states to be the source of the Yarkand river. Bones and
carcases of horses lay in all directions, the loads of many left beside
their bearer's remains. Huge bloated ravens flapped and croaked around.
Footprints of the hyena, too, were seen, which foul ugly beast had
skulked from the glare of day to some lone den in the rocks around.
I rode slowly on ahead of my party, pondering on subjects suggested
by the savage wildness of the scene, when I was quite startled by the
rushing sound of two monstrous ravens which, quarrelling for a morsel
of carrion, swooped down close by my head. I thought how, in darker
ages, this would have been regarded as an augury for good or evil. We
descended gradually, following the watercourse, the valley widening
to some two or three miles extent; at a bend in which, taking us to
the eastward, our course having been hitherto north, we saw some of
the wild horse (kyang)--two or three in the valley, others on the
hill-side, and some up a creek down which came a tributary stream.
Exciting as this sight was, nothing could be done. To attempt to stalk
such wild, sagacious creatures, with every natural condition in their
favour, was hopeless; so gazing in despair I rode on, and saw two large
antelopes equally unassailable. The valley narrowed to a gorge; then
opened out on to an extensive plain of shingle, miles broad and more
in length, intersected in all directions by streams which, if united,
must form a large river. We crossed over this plain to a grassy bank,
lying between it and the sandy hills which represent, as it were, the
projected roots of the mountains, stretching out far and irregularly
from the main body. The country is now evidently opening out, showing
wide expanses between the mountains, and giving hopes of better lands
to be soon reached.
Another caravan passed on its upward course, but some way from us. We
saw some startled antelope hastening from them, and went after them;
but after having toiled long, performing a circuitous course to reach
them, we viewed them where, from the direction of the wind and absence
of all covert could not approach. I sent Phuttoo to try to drive
them to us, but he failed entirely. We wandered about this shingly
plain, viewing other antelope equally unapproachable; then returned
to camp ground. None of my people had arrived. Nor did they till
5 P.M.; when I learned that another horse had knocked up, and
was apparently in a hopeless state, but the blood being extracted from
its nostrils, and its burden removed, it recovered and was being led on.
After night had closed in, I was sitting anxiously awaiting the arrival
of the coolies still behind, when I heard sounds of human voices in
distress, faint and distant. There were answering calls from camp. This
continued a long time. I then enquired if any one had been despatched
to direct the wanderers to our haven, and was told one had; but think
not till I spoke. A long time elapsed; and then the voices drew nearer,
and at nine o'clock all had come in safe, to my great relief. They had
naturally followed on the main track, from which we had turned off to
camp, and so they had strayed some miles beyond us.
I had given orders for an entertainment to be prepared for all hands
to-morrow, including our mercantile friends, to commemorate the passage
of the Karakorum, as also to freshen up my exhausted coolies, who have
had four consecutive hard days' work. The whole party look worn and
haggard. Much pleasure was evinced at the prospect of the morrow's
rest and refreshment. I got out additional clothes to sleep in, and,
having carefully scraped up the dirt and stones against my tent-foot to
exclude the piercing wind, hope to make out the night comfortably.
19th August. Sunday. I enjoyed a tolerable night's repose, thanks to
the precautions taken to render my shuldary proof against the icy
blasts coming down from the snowy summits around. I strolled out,
and selected as favourable a site as this wild offered, where to sit
and ruminate. My reflections were not altogether satisfactory, not
unmixed with growing apprehensions of disaster, from loss of cattle
extending to loss of men. I have reduced the coolies' loads to a mere
trifle; still they get on with difficulty. It is not the burden, but
the difficulty of respiration, that oppresses them. Another goat
was obliged to be killed on the road yesterday. The want of natural
nourishment is terrible: and the fact of this region not producing
sufficient herbage to support a goat may well define its inhospitable
sterility. The few wild animals existing must pick up a precarious
and meagre sustenance in and about the watercourses, where alone a
vegetation, coarse and scanty, may be found. The horse that knocked up
yesterday was led in at night, and having fed we hope to save him.
From these gloomy forebodings I turned me to the more cheerful subject
of to-day's festivity, and descended to carry out with Abdoolah the
designs already chalked out. I desired that all the mussulmans should
eat together, merchants, shikarries, domestics, and Bhooties--the
Hindoos separately--and the Buddhist Bhooties. About 12 P.M.,
Abdoolah reported that the banquet was spread, and going out I found
the party busily employed on an ample provision of well-cooked pillau,
helped into its resting-place by tea and coffee. All seemed much
pleased and thankful.
In the evening a large caravan of some eighty horses came in. The
principal man was a Cashmiri of Kishtewar, and being slightly
acquainted with one of his countrymen, the shikarries, he was most
accessible to all our queries, and most voluble in his replies. He had
not come by the Sugheit road; had seen numbers of antelope to-day. He
entered into a long history of the murder of the brother Schlagentweit,
which agrees in the main with that already known, but with the
important difference that the bulk of the victim's property, including
his papers, was with him when Walli Khan so brutally murdered him, and
is still in that ruffian's possession. A few things were previously
'looted' on the road, which were following in the rear of the ill-fated
traveller. I enquired as to the probability of obtaining the effects,
at least the papers of the unfortunate naturalist, and was told that
certainly, if I wrote authoritatively to the khaltai newab, or hakim,
who rules Yarkand, he would cause their restoration; though it must be
a work of time, as all sorts of evasions and falsehoods would be put
in practice to mislead me, and induce the belief that the effects were
beyond recovery.
Here is a matter for serious consideration. A great advantage to the
public may be obtained by my instrumentality, but can I, a servant
of the government, take upon myself the responsibility, wholly
unauthorised, of using my influence as belonging to the government, in
a direction altogether beyond my office and functions?
20th August. To Waad Jilgo: a pleasant march of some ten or eleven
miles, in my case agreeably diversified by good sport with antelope.
Our route lay down the extensive plain of shingle, the streams of
which were thickly coated with ice which jingled merrily under our
trampling feet. A smart pace was necessary to keep up the circulation,
so I strode on ahead of Abdool. The shikarries were detained, waiting
till their tats had finished their seer of corn. The poor animal that
knocked up on Saturday disappointed our hopes and expectations, after
all his improving symptoms dying in the course of the night. He was one
of the strongest of the lot, and in fair condition.
Many antelope were seen on either hand; but the ground presented no
facilities for stalking, so I did not check my course for them. After
about five miles' tramp, the shikarries came up. We now left the
shingly watercourse, ascending on to some uplands yielding, here and
there, a light sprinkling of grass, the blades few and far between,
but just tinting the spot where they grew. A fine buck antelope
suddenly stepped into view, as he surmounted a rise; gazed at us a
second or two, and leisurely took himself off. This was tantalising.
I dismounted, and with Subhan sought to circumvent him; but he had
put many a hundred yards between us. We again descended to a bed of
shingle of wide-stretching dimensions, on which moving objects were
indistinctly seen in the uncertain hazy light, at first thought to be
kyang, then decided to be antelope. Two peculiar features were now
observable in our direct route, lying close together, apparently rocks
which would be islets when the floods were out. For these we steered,
determining there to breakfast. As we alighted, a buck antelope sped
along far on the other side, coming down a shelving bank on to the
shingle, as though he were about to cross it. He was far away; but
Phuttoo handed me the Whitworth. I said, "Well, we have lots of bullets
and lead; how far off is he?" They said, "three hundred yards;" so,
putting the sight to three hundred, I rested the rifle against a
rock, and aimed high and forward. The ball was seen ricochetting far
beyond the buck, which had started, and then stood, head drooping.
"Mara, mara," exclaimed the shikarries in great excitement. And so it
appeared. The animal did not move: so, making arrangements, I advanced
on him, and, as I neared him, he lay down--evidence enough of his
being mortally wounded. Gaining his rear, I finished him; and a fine,
handsome animal he proved, in prime condition, a different species from
the black buck, the antelope of the plains; being of a rufous colour,
with a thick felt of fur, the winter coat, and fine tapering horns with
sharp points bending forwards, with regularly placed transverse bars
from the base to six inches from the tip in front, smoothing off to the
rear: there was a curious puffy lump at the nostrils.
Continuing our way, I observed something shewing above the level of
the gravelly plain, so checked my horse, and called the attention of
the shikarries, and asked if it were not the horns of an antelope.
They said, it was a stick. But, while thus conjecturing in an under
tone, the single object doubled, and proclaimed its character beyond
any further doubt. I dismounted, and prepared for action. The buck,
benefiting by our audible doubts, aware of danger, sprang up, and
moved away, but not rapidly; so, using Subhan's shoulder as a rest, I
levelled Whitworth, and with similar effect to the former shot, the
missile being seen skipping far away, and the animal stopping with
drooping head. He soon lay down, and on our approach rose and made off
at a laboured trot; when an Enfield bullet, striking him in the rear,
and traversing his body, stretched him lifeless.
We had ridden on some eight hundred yards, when another buck suddenly
rose, and stood bewildered, beholding us. Phuttoo fumbled so long with
the Whitworth ere handing it to me, that the buck had turned, and was
going off at a brisk pace, when I aimed and fired. "Mara, mara," was
again the exclamation. We thought he was another victim. But it was
only to this extent; his left horn was struck off close to his head, to
the intense discomfiture of the poor beast, which threw itself into all
sorts of contortions as it dashed away. We left the carcases in Kamal's
custody to be cleaned and brought to camp; where we shortly pulled up
in a bight of an indent, down which trickled a thread of clear water
which produced a patch of unhealthy-looking turf, and some scattered
blades of grass in the vicinity.
Subhan and I started after an antelope we had seen near by. He had
vanished. We saw others--but does, too wary to get near. We wandered
up and down; found tracks of kyang, and made for a gorge, where they
might harbour. There we spied a buck; and, as he appeared to have spied
us, retreated, and, creeping up the dry watercourse, surprised him
feeding on the bank, and rolled him over. Now we turned towards camp;
on reaching which I was informed that another horse had knocked up,
and been left on the road. It was a poor, lanky, diseased animal, but
had stood out well hitherto, although I had, from the first, predicted
its giving in. I sent two men to try and lead it in; but they could
not succeed, so I fear, though there is both grass and water close to
it, the poor creature is doomed. Just before dinner I climbed a hill
overhanging the bivouac, on which I found the head and horns of a yâk,
a truly massive head. This had probably been killed by a shikarry,
there being no other bones near. From this eminence I noticed antelope
in to-morrow's line of march, and anticipate sport. There is now great
frizzling and kabobbing of flesh.
21st August. I did not turn out very early, but, when I did, found that
the horses had not yet been driven in, the Bhooties continuing their
cooking. I took the Whitworth from Phuttoo, and, followed by Abdool and
nag, started off. We saw antelope on every side in numbers, but could
not get within five hundred yards, so wild were they. There were fine
grassy uplands for this barren country, _i.e._, sandy downs bearing a
greenish hue, caused by a blade of grass every square yard or so. But
it was extremely agreeable to see even this scanty herbage--a wonderful
relief to the aching eye. We could not get near the antelope; so,
after footing it some five miles, I took the path, as usual, in a wide
river-bed, and mounted. I rode on some five or six miles, and then,
finding water, halted for breakfast, when Phuttoo and Subhan came up
on foot, having tired of waiting for their tats. After an hour's rest,
leaving them till the nags arrived, I pursued my journey, and about 3
P.M., after a most wearisome five hours of foot's pace under
a burning sun and intense glare, pulled up in a dismal hollow under
the mountain leading to Sugheit. This spot, being soon in shade, was
bitterly cold, and it soon froze sharp. These rapid alternations of
heat and cold are very trying.
It was long before any of my people arrived. I then learned that four
horses were left behind, having strayed away--Moosa, Ali Bucks, and
Mooktoo remaining behind to bring them on. These came in during the
night, but several coolies did not arrive. I gave orders not to move
till after breakfast, having on enquiry been assured both by Moosa and
Abdool that it was but three hours to Sugheit, and I wished to get all
the people together.
22nd August. A bitterly cold morning, and the coolies still absent.
I was, notwithstanding, in good spirits from the near prospect of
reaching our shooting quarters, the far-famed oasis of Sugheit, rich in
grass and timber, and abounding in game, only three hours off; and I
cheered up my shivering followers with visions of unlimited quantities
of meat. The coolies came in at seven, looking only a little pinched.
We set off at 8.30, and had a steady, even pull for some three miles up
a hill, from the top of which we understood we were to gaze upon the
verdant charms of Sugheit; when, to our utter dismay we looked down
upon a long valley of complete nakedness, shut in by mountains equally
devoid of clothing. Moosa and Abdool endeavoured to explain that 'the
happy land' was not distant, pointing down the valley. But I now
thought it prudent to reduce my expectations, although I had received
such glowing descriptions, from so many, of the surpassing merits of
the fertile Sugheit.
We went some six dreary miles down this vale of disappointment, in
which, however, we saw some traces of yâk; and then we turned easterly
over another mile or so of barrenness, with an occasional patch of
grass by the stream. Then, coming to very rough, broken, rocky ground,
the stream became our road; and a very awkward one it was, full of
boulders, and the incline now very great. Grass began to form a regular
border on the bank, gradually widening until we descended into a narrow
valley, or rather gorge, and the grass filled the bottom. The stream
was fringed with willow-like bushes, which also grew here and there in
large patches. And this was the much-vaunted Sugheit. But it is not to
be wondered at, that the natives of this desolate region should imagine
this strip of fertility a perfect paradise, and magnify its beauties
and merits accordingly.
We passed a Yarkand merchant with a few horses, who stated that he had
seen a dozen or so of yâk in a spot known to Moosa. We had noticed
tracks of those animals, as also of shâpu, on first entering the
valley. We passed on through some fine rich herbage--a sort of lucerne
abundant--and finally dismounted at a spot where were two Yarkandies,
apparently known to Moosa and Abdool. Here we were to halt. These men
did not give a cheery account of our prospects, as they had seen no
game.
Thoroughly down-hearted at having come thus far to so little purpose,
I took my choga and namba, and lay me down moodily under a bush, and
went to sleep. When I awoke, Subhan and Moosa came and begged me not
give way to despondency. These Yarkandies, they said, had at first been
alarmed at the awful apparition of a saheb; but, having recovered, had
declared there were plenty of yâk in the neighbourhood; and one of
them, though now doing a mercantile turn, was a professional shikarry,
thoroughly acquainted with this country and the haunts of the yâk, and
as one of his mares had recently foaled, and he must be detained some
days, he would accompany the saheb, and shew him plenty of yâk for
a consideration. Ample 'backsheesh' was promised, and things looked
brighter. But the wretched aspect of the land, as compared with my
anticipations, still kept me down-hearted.
I took Subhan with me in the downward direction in which we were to
move to-morrow; but there was no improvement visible in the country.
This valley debouched upon another which crossed it at right angles,
its enclosing mountains as bald as ever. I announced my resolve to
prosecute my travels on to Yarkand, if we found no game, and questioned
the Yarkandi as to the reception I was likely to meet with, and whether
he would accompany me. He replied that, as Yarkand was ruled by the
khaltai padshah people, he could not answer for his accompanying me,
his present business would not permit it: he would shew me shikar, that
was all.
A 'bunderbus' was made to move camp into the transverse valley
to-morrow, to a place on the river affording grass and wood in plenty;
and in the afternoon the hunting party, equipped for two days'
excursion, were to start for the yâk grounds--the place where the
merchant and the Yarkandies said they had seen yâk three days back.
23rd August. I passed a pleasant night of undisturbed repose, the
air here being soft and mild compared with that we have recently
been subject to. After breakfast we moved off, and, passing down a
declivity of some three miles, crossed a fine clear stream into a sort
of wild meadow bottom, producing a good crop of grass and abundant
thick-growing bushes. It looked a nice place to camp. On the way
we found a yâk's head, and at this place other remains of the same
animal, a large bull, apparently victim to some shikarry. On arrival
of equipage, we selected clothing, bedding, and victuals; but on
mustering the party I found, to my astonishment, that the Yarkandi was
not coming, shuffling off his engagement under pretext of headache. I
do not know to what to attribute this breach of engagement.
Our party rode off, following the regular road; then turned into
a narrow defile up which ran a rocky track, occasionally used by
travellers. Old tracks of yâk were visible. Having made some three
miles, we dismounted and sent back our horses; fixed on our bivouac;
and, leaving Phuttoo and coolies to arrange it, climbed a hill-side to
reconnoitre. We looked over a table-land, and into a valley threaded by
a stream, but found only old tracks; those very numerous. We returned,
doubtful of our chances; but thought that, if our informants had not
deceived us, we must find game or fresh tracks on the morrow. I supped,
and turned into my bed, snugly occupying a space between some bushes,
the air fresh and cool, the night bright, recalling many an 'al fresco'
couch in Australia. I enjoyed it amazingly, awaking occasionally, and
fully appreciating my comfortable position--bright starlight, a young
declining moon, a fresh breeze rustling amid my protecting screen of
bushes, and plenty of warm bed-clothes; all but the leaves still as
silence; no voices of the night here, save an occasional dissonant
grunt from the direction of the sleeping attendants.
24th August. We were up at daybreak, and soon off; and made for a
grassy bottom by the stream, where Moosa made sure of a find. But
there were no fresh tracks: old innumerable. We followed up river, and
crossed over, Mooktoo carrying me; still only signs of distant date.
And so on; until I called a halt for breakfast and a consultation, all
now growing despondent. Poor Mooktoo was barefooted, Tar-gness having
carelessly lost one of his shoes which he was carrying across the
river. And it was no joke traversing this rough stony ground shoeless.
I resolved to penetrate some distance further, to a point giving a
long view up the valley. There I halted the party, and sent on Subhan
and Moosa to search for sign, and Tar-gness in another direction;
deciding, if they found fresh sign, to send for camp things. The two
former returned on the opposite side of the river, and beckoned me. I
rode Mooktoo across, noticing pleasure beaming on their faces. They
had discovered one fresh track of a well-grown male, and thought they
had found tracks of the lot seen by the merchant; so I sent back Kamal
for the traps, and after a bit started off on the trail. This we ran
some six miles; and as it did not lead to others, and a long distance
visible presented nothing, we pulled up in despair, and I announced my
opinion to be that it was useless to try further in that direction,
the yâk, which had the previous year crowded this locality, having
certainly found other feeding grounds. To this all assented; and it was
decided to move back, meet the coolies, then halt for the night, and
move on to standing camp in the morning; and thence make a fresh start
in the opposite direction, which will lead to the grounds where Nassir
Khan and his followers told us they saw yâk in hundreds. Moosa had
deferred leading us there, because, when tending horses two years back
in this valley, the yâk pastured here in herds, and fed mingling daily
with his horses. This the tracks abounding verified.
Back we went. And, no way discouraged by this failure, I trudged on
ahead, and selected a snug turfy retreat, amid thick overhanging
bushes, for our bivouac; and then discussed our prospects and projects
with my retainers. Yarkand, and the possibility of recovering poor
Schlagentweit's effects--his papers useless to the barbarians amongst
whom he fell a victim--a favourite every day topic of mine, was
renewed; and Subhan told me, to my surprise, that Moosa, my Panamik
recruit, had been employed together with his father by government
agents to obtain intelligence, and procure any effects possible of the
murdered saheb; that he had discovered the saheb's servant in Yarkand,
and got from him a boot and a book, which he had delivered to a Mr.
Leake in Kulu, who had rewarded him, and given him the black tattoo
now with us, and a certificate which was at Ladâk. He further stated,
that this servant had in his possession the saheb's head, which he
had sought for and found where he was slain, some months after the
event, he having been imprisoned, and only having escaped death by
turning mussulman. Much astonished at this unexpected revelation, only
now divulged, I sent for Moosa who distinctly affirmed the above to
be strictly true: he added minute particulars fully bearing out his
story. My interest in this sad affair was much augmented by this fresh
and important intelligence, and I questioned Moosa on the possibility
of my obtaining an interview with the ruler of Yarkand. Moosa now
confessed that he dare not venture, as had been decided, to procure
fresh supplies for my party, as the Affghan merchants now gone ahead
would have given information of a saheb having come to hunt at Sugheit,
and the destination of such supplies would be at once suspected.
Here was an additional argument for me to risk the adventure; so,
after much cross-questioning, I find that five days' journey from
Sugheit--the road rough, but grass at each halt--is an outpost, or
thanna, where are stationed five or six Chinese soldiers, whose duty
is to detain travellers, merchants, and others, sending information to
the authorities in Yarkand of any unusual arrival; and according to
the orders returned is the party permitted to proceed, or detained,
or repulsed. Moosa thinks that, if I give notice of my arrival, and
explain to the officials at this thanna my desire for a friendly
interview with the ruler of Yarkand, that functionary will accord it,
and will assist my enquiries after this servant and any effects of
the saheb to be had, and will also order supplies for my party to any
extent. The Yarkand people had nothing to do with the assassination of
poor Schlagentweit, so will the more readily co-operate, perhaps. I
fully determined to try and carry out this scheme.
I must allow the poor, galled, jaded horses some few days' rest and
refreshment, in the meanwhile hunting; then, selecting followers and
the best cattle, will move on Khylian, this outpost, giving entrance
to the Yarkand territories. It is a ticklish adventure, as we are at
war with China; but I trust to the ignorance of these singular people,
either not to know or to recognise this fact. Moosa and my whole
council seem much pleased with this resolution; and the more so, as
I tell them that, in all probability, if I succeed in recovering the
papers of the deceased, government will reward any native assistants
liberally; if not, I will myself. I talked this project over at length,
and retired, my mind full of it and its execution.
25th August. We had a long stiff pull up hill, of some five miles, ere
we descended to our former bivouac; then on, down the rough glen, till
we debouched on the valley where was our standing camp. Crossing some
level sand through which the path runs, Subhan gave a low peculiar
whistle, and pointed to fresh tracks of yâk, some four or five, and two
of them bulls. Much struck by the oddity of the animals we had taken
such trouble about having thus in my absence gone straight to my camp,
and cheered by the omen, I strode merrily on, and followed the tracks
right into our bivouac, expressing astonishment thereat, and laughing
over the consternation they must have created in the dead of night. But
Abdoolah at once dispelled our illusive thoughts by the information
that a Yarkandi had come in yesterday with four bullocks, tame yâks,
whose tracks had so excited us.
The newcomer was an old man with two servants, a gun, and a dog, and
was proceeding to the syarat of which Nassir Khan had spoken, whence
the stone of the Delhi musjed had been quarried; his object being to
possess himself of a supply of specimens of this holy stone which,
conveyed to Yarkand, was bought at a ridiculously high price by devout
mussulmans. It was also the old gentleman's intention to hunt yâk which
were there plentiful: but, finding a saheb in his path also after those
animals, he had most courteously expressed his intention to await my
return, accompany me, and aid me to his utmost in procuring sport,
which I should enjoy to my satisfaction. This quite compensated for the
mistake of the tracks, and, summoning the stranger to an audience, he
came and confirmed his good intents on my behalf. I stepped to his fire
close by, where was a large rough dog, useful in the chase of the yâk,
which he attacks, and so distracting his attention from the hunters
gives them the chance of getting a good shot. He had a long matchlock
with rifled barrel, and a forked rest attached. This, he said, was of
Russian manufacture, and cost only twenty-four rupees--£2. 8_s._ We
could not do it cheaper in Birmingham. He said it shot right well. I
sent him a leg of venison, an acceptable supply of meat; and in the
course of the day the good man appeared with a return present of a
pair of ornamented saddle-bags and a dish of flour. The bags being a
necessary part of his equipment, I declined them with thanks. He said,
were he but at home, he would have offered me something really worth
having. He is the lumbadar of his place, only some four days' journey,
whence he says he can supply my party with any supplies required. This
is well.
I retired to my tent, and was writing up journal, when Subhan appeared,
and to my enquiry as to his wants, he said, "The saheb's servant,
of whom we were talking last night, is here." Thinking that I must
have misunderstood him, I repeated his words interrogatively, "Here,
in camp?" "Yes; and awaiting an interview." I was amazed at this
extraordinary coincidence with my wishes and designs, as were all
my followers who had been made aware of my intention to proceed in
search of this very man. A feeling of awe seemed to hold them all in
silent expectation, from which they were released by exclaiming at my
wonderful 'kizmet.' I now took my chair outside, a circle of anxious
attendants sitting round; when the cause of all this excitement
appeared on the scene--a stout burly man, with a round red face and
grizzled beard, wearing a red cloth skull-cap, fringed with black
curly wool. He was agitated at the meeting, and enquired if I was a
countryman of his late master's. He spoke no Hindostani, only Persian
and Toorki; so the interpretation necessary was tedious--Moosa first
interpreting into Cashmiri, then one of the Cashmiries into indifferent
Hindostani, which Abdoolah helped me to understand. The gist of the
narrative was as follows.
This man, a native of Bokhara, was travelling from Delhi to Yarkand
with merchandise, being a regular trader, when in Kulu he fell in with
M. Schlagentweit who entered into some agreement with him, by which
they became apparently connected in some speculation in furs--ermine
I imagine--as M. Schlagentweit gave Murad an acknowledgment for three
hundred skins, value six hundred tillahs, which was dated July 3rd,
1857, and written at that place: a concluding paragraph states that
the amount was to be paid on arrival at Kokand, or, in case of the
writer's death, by the government treasury at Kangra. This bond is
somewhat obscure, as it makes some reference in favour of the reverend
missionaries of Lahoul, which I could not make out. This is probably
owing to the writer using a foreign language. The party arrived at this
place, Sugheit, M. Schlagentweit having many attendants and several
horses with him; and from this place he despatched his khansamah to
Leh with his journal and letters, and, while asleep at night, his
property was plundered, and his servants ran away, and deserted.
M. Schlagentweit, it would appear, had determined to personate the
character of a merchant, and had with him much valuable cloth, and
some forty horses. Over this business transaction a complete mystery
hangs. The probability seems that M. Schlagentweit, fully aware of the
difficulty of travelling through a country reputed so barbarous and
hostile to Europeans as Yarkand, adopted the disguise of a merchant:
but the bond in question shows some transaction ostensibly undertaken
on account of Government.
The robbery was effected with such dexterity, it would appear, that
it was only discovered in the morning, and then reported by Murad to
M. Schlagentweit who ordered him to search out which way the robbers'
tracks led. They pointed to Kargalik, a district of Yarkand. The
robbery was committed in the ravine where I encamped on Thursday
night. M. Schlagentweit, Murad, and a Yarkand servant, by name Mahomed
Dahomey, and a Bhooti, proceeded onwards on the Yarkand road. Arriving
in Kargalik, they found the whole country in anarchy, one Walli Khan,
with a considerable force of some fanatical tribes, being arrayed
in hostility against the Yarkand authorities who, in that city and
elsewhere, had shut themselves up. This news troubled M. Schlagentweit,
and he hesitated how to act. But Mahomed Dahomey informed him that
Walli Khan was a native of Kokand, which country was under the British
government, and therefore there could be nothing to apprehend from
him; on the contrary, he ought to apply to him for assistance. M.
Schlagentweit was persuaded to write to Walli Khan, reporting the
robbery of his property, and its having been tracked into Kargalik--the
thieves had taken off eleven of the best horses with their loads.
This letter was entrusted to Murad who preceded M. Schlagentweit, and
despatched to Walli Khan; who causing search to be made, the goods were
found exposed for sale, and the whole restored to M. Schlagentweit
to whom Walli Khan sent most courteous messages and invitations to
visit him. He was then in Andejan. Mahomed Dahomey tried to persuade
M. Schlagentweit to go to Walli Khan, but he expressed his desire to
go straight on to Kokand, saying, "My road lies here: why should I
go out of my way to see Walli Khan, into the midst of fighting?" But
by some fatality he did yield to this man's persuasions, and arrived
at Walli Khan's quarter's; where, his arrival being reported, that
villain ordered his boxes and packages to be opened and examined. The
keys were taken from the khansamah, a Cashmiri, and everything looked
at; and a report being made to Walli Khan, he ordered that the saheb
should pay duty upon them. Mahomed Dahomey went into the presence of
Walli Khan--no one else of M. Schlagentweit's attendants--and spoke
two or three words to him. M. Schlagentweit expostulated at the
demand made upon him, saying, "he was on his road to Kokand, and this
exaction was unjust," or expressions of like character. At this time
the horses setting-to fighting, M. Schlagentweit directed Murad to go
and quiet them. He did so, and on his coming back M. Schlagentweit was
lying murdered by his property. Murad, the Cashmere khansamah, and the
Bhooti, were imprisoned. The Cashmiri was released after some few days'
confinement, and went in guise of a faquir to Cabul. The Bhootie was
killed: and Murad, after some three months' lying in irons, embraced
Mahomedanism, being a Jew, and was then released. For six months Walli
Khan held possession of the country, but the cities and the forts held
out against him; when, a strong Chinese force being despatched to the
aid of their beleaguered countrymen, Walli Khan's force broke up and
dispersed. He himself is now in prison under authority of the ruler of
Kokand. Murad's brother was resident in Yarkand, and now befriended
him. He now made search for the remains of his late employer, and found
the head, which had been severed from the body, near the place where
the murder was perpetrated. Though much decayed, he identified it by a
remarkably prominent foretooth; the other portions it was impossible
to recognise, as some hundreds of men had been slain in battle on
that ground. He made search for property, and bought a horse, an
instrument, and a book, that had been the saheb's, and was now on his
way, accompanied by his brother to Kangra, where he hoped to find the
brothers of his deceased master, and deliver these relics to them. The
head of the unfortunate gentleman is wrapped up in wool, and sewn up in
a bag, with a view to avoid unpleasant scrutiny, looking like a pillow.
The narrative is here given in a much more connected form than that
in which I received it, having asked many explanatory questions. When
Murad described the horrid deed, or rather his finding his master
murdered, he burst into tears, sobbing violently. Phuttoo and Subhan,
in deep sympathy, wept aloud, and all the listeners were much affected.
From the difficulty of understanding the expressions, the narrative
fell with less force upon me.
There is much in Murad's statement which one would wish clearer. Why
has he so long delayed communicating with the friends of the deceased?
Merchants have gone to and fro, and enquiries have been made by
government, but now three years have elapsed he turns up with a bond
worth 3,600 rupees, and otherwise in good circumstances. His brother's
aid may account for this, certainly. I hate to suspect any one. Bella
Shah and the thanadar, Basti Ram, stated the Bokhara servant to have
been an accomplice to the theft and murder. However, I have taken the
man's statement for truth, and lest he should meet with molestation
at Ladâk, or elsewhere, on his journey down, have offered him my
protection, giving him clearly to understand that he is perfectly free
to pursue his journey and objects, if he chooses. He expresses himself
most anxious to stay with me; saying, he feels sure that Basti Ram
would seize the relics, and send them to the British government on his
own account. Not improbable. Murad, therefore, leaves the party of
merchants with whom he has hitherto travelled--and they number some two
or three hundred horses, I am told--and joins my party to-morrow.
After dinner I went out to a fire lit for me, it being excessively
cold, a bitter wind still blowing, the concluding blast of a storm
which has covered the adjoining mountains with snow. My principal
retainers gathered round, and talked over the story of Murad, and
canvassed its merits. Many doubts were expressed as to his veracity and
complete innocence. I now sent for the Yarkandi, thinking it advisable
to lose no time in sending for additional supplies, as some twelve days
must elapse ere their arrival. The old man came, and took up a berth
among the others, and negociations went on rapidly. He entered into
our views with alacrity, and promised to procure the flour and corn we
required, some rice, and a quantity of fruit, apples, grapes, apricots,
and melons, as a present for me. He said, this stock should be laden
on horses which I might purchase, if I pleased. He was to receive six
rupees in advance, for which I went to my tent, and on my rejoining the
group he had withdrawn to give directions to one of his servants to
start on this business in the morning. Everything now seemed to work
smoothly, and promise success.
26th August. Sunday. I slept well, and waited to gain a glimpse of
sunshine under the tent ere turning out. There had been a sharp frost
during the night, and it was a beautiful, clear, fresh morning. I sat
in my chair idly sunning myself, when a sense of the sanctity of the
day, and an imperative impulse to express it, took hold of me; and I
made my way through the thick bushes to the river, where its divided
waters poured noisily over many boulders, and, selecting a stone for a
seat, gave myself up to devotion.
Coming back to camp, I was met by Abdoolah who told me that the old
man, who had promised to do so much, now declared that he dared not
venture to send for any supplies for me, lest the Yarkand authorities,
hearing of it, might wreak their vengeance upon him. He had come to
this conclusion on consulting his servants. This was most unexpected.
Food for man and beast must be had; so, enquiring of Moosa the
distance to this man's residence, I resolved to fulfil my hunting
plans, then to return, bringing the patriarch with me 'nolens volens,'
and, so accompanied, proceed to his village, and there obtain supplies
by force, if needs must: the constraint put upon the old man would
secure him from harm. I then bethought me of ascertaining what stock
should remain, and found by my account that there should be twenty
days' rations for men, but very little for horses. Thus there would
be enough for ten days shikar, and ten days to Panamik, and then corn
might be procured from some kafila. I now directed an order to be
written to the gopal of Panamik to send out a horse-load of flour and
corn to the foot of Sassar, on this side; which note was despatched
to the merchants just starting for delivery, and I hope we shall have
enough without adopting my scheme of violence and rapine.
Murad joined my party with his brother and three horses, and, to my
dismay, has brought with him neither atta nor corn. I have directed
him to obtain stock from some of the passing travellers who are yet
expected in numbers--crowds of hajis now proceeding to Mecca, their
pious pilgrimage having been checked these last three years by the
mutinies, perhaps. This he promises to do. He brought a German book,
a volume of scientific geography, having no owner's name in it, but
being purchased, he said, in the bazaar of Andejan, doubtless poor
Schlagentweit's property. He brought the pillow containing the head,
and was proceeding to open it, but I desired him to desist.
The bunderbus is complete for a move to-morrow, the old Yarkandi
expressing the utmost willingness to shew me the hunting grounds. I
take provisions for four days, and look for sport ere my return; until
when, I must leave this my diary.