TO THE KARAKORUM.
6th August. Away in good time, and high spirits at the prospect of
resuming my travels. I found the river very much altered as to its
channels, and reduced in volume; but still it was a work of time and
labour to cross over. The main channel was considerably enlarged, and I
should think some eight hundred yards in width, with here and there a
current of tremendous force; the average depth was not above the knees,
but in the rushes up to the middle. I got across without misadventure,
leaving servants and baggage to follow, and made for a village called
Thaga, over a sandy road: in one place the sand, by the action of wind
or water, was heaped up in successive ridges, like the sea in a stiff
breeze.
I found Phuttoo and the moonshi at this village: the former assured
me, with much volubility, that everything was ready at Panamik. The
servants and baggage having come up, we moved on to Chamseen, which is,
I should think, eight miles from Lanjoong, the path rough and stony. We
passed through one village and an agreeable stretch of cultivation,
the valley generally as barren as ever, and bivouacked in an orchard,
my tent being pitched under a fine spreading peach tree, the shade of
which was very enjoyable.
7th August. We quitted this pleasant bivouac before 5 A.M., and
travelled over a country in this narrow valley similar to that
crossed yesterday, a barren stony hollow, with a hamlet occasionally on
either side, where man's ingenuity and industry, invading this domain
of rock, has won a hard fought footing. My shikarries and servants are
now all on tattoos, and will be thus assisted all the way to the yâk
country. We saw two or three hares in the thorn thickets now met with.
This rugged valley runs, I think, almost N.W. Some lofty snow-capped
mountains close in the upward view.
We arrived at Panamik at half-past eight, the distance not more than
ten miles. It is a small village as to residences, but with a large
extent of rich cultivation, and a good number of fine fruit trees, and
also large willows. I took up my quarters under some peach trees, the
fruit abundant; not as we see it in our gardens in England, a solitary
specimen here and there on a wall, but depending in bunches numbering
some dozens together--small certainly, and nothing to be compared
in flavour. They are yet generally unripe. The kardar and moonshi
attended to report that all was prepared: I was, therefore, the more
vexed and disappointed, when in the middle of the day Abdoolah told me
that, owing to a mistake in the maund--the kardar having willfully,
as I believe, mistaken the amount which was ordered to be in 'cucha'
maunds--there would not be half enough flour provided for rations, and
that, as it had to be ground, another day's delay was unavoidable.
There was no help for it, so I submitted to stern necessity as
tranquilly as possible.
We had great work shoeing the thanadar's horse which I must take with
me in default of any other fit for my use. There was no professional
'nahlband' here, nor the usual implements of that operative; but
luckily 'a handy-man,' as they call a bungler at several trades in a
regiment, turned up--one accustomed to accompany kafilas to and from
Yarkand, and look after the horses. I was much taken with the man's
expression and manner, and became more interested in him, when Subhan
informed me that he was well acquainted with the localities the yâk
frequented, and, moreover, was willing to join my expedition--a most
valuable recruit, I think. He reminds me strongly of some acquaintance
or other, I cannot think who: his voice and way of speaking are
peculiar, slow and deliberate: he is the son of a Cashmiri by a Bhoot
mother, and I should fancy some twenty-five years old.
The kardar produced two sets of shoes, made in the neighbourhood, of
such inferior workmanship and bad metal that, taking one in my hands,
I broke it in two to the dismay of the kardar, who beat a retreat, and
after a time came back with a set of Yarkand shoes, as light as racing
plates, but of the best quality of iron, and a lot of nails to match.
Then the work began. A pair of pincers, a hammer, and, after much
research, a mortising chisel, were produced, and satisfied with these
rude tools my new man set to work with confidence, and, I may add,
skill. The old shoes were soon ripped off--there being no file to take
off the clench of the nails, I apprehended some damage to the hoof, but
all turned out well; then, the hoof being placed on a piece of timber,
the other leg hoisted up by the active, useful Abdool, the chisel was
applied, and the hoof, bereft of its superabundance, roughly rounded
to the form desired, the inner surface and the bridge, frog, and heel,
slightly pared with one of my pocket knives, and the shoe affixed in a
workman-like manner, the nails right well driven and firmly clenched.
Abdool's ingenuity in steadying the hind leg was admirable. He took the
long tail of the nag, and wound two turns round the pastern, so getting
a good purchase: he then held the leg out at full stretch, and another
help placed his shoulders against the other ham to control any attempt
at violence, and so the astonished animal was newly provided all round.
I ordered dinner at five punctually to enable me to stroll out and look
for a hare in the neighbouring thickets afterwards. At dinner Abdoolah
informed me that the rascal of a kardar was intending all sorts of
frauds and tricks in respect of the price of the rations and hire of
horses, having told him that he had established a tariff differing much
from that of Leh, and most exorbitant. As the principal town gives
the standard, I told Abdoolah that I would take measures to bring the
kardar to his senses, and directed the horses for selection and the
officials to be in attendance to-morrow at my breakfast hour. I thought
over my plans, and prepared my speeches, enriching my vocabulary from
my Hindostani Hand-book. I went out with Subhan, and killed one hare,
and wounded another, the only two we saw. On my return Mooktoo and
Subhan attended, and informed me that the moonshi had confided to them,
that the kardar had collected a wretched batch of incapable horses
for me, and that there were some good serviceable animals to be had,
if I insisted upon it. He could not speak out himself, he said, but
urged them to advise me to assume a high hand, as these people will do
nothing unless driven.
8th August. Taking my gun, Subhan, and Sara, I went to look at some
hot springs of which Abdoolah had told me, he having visited them
yesterday. They were about a mile off: our way lay through the thicket
where I shot the hare yesterday. We found the springs gurgling up
from under a limestone rock on the side of the mountain, and flowing
copiously down into the valley, lining its channel at first with a
white incrustation, then further on with a bright ochrous sediment. The
difference of atmosphere was very perceptible on approach, a hot steam
being generated around. The heat of the water, where bubbling out, was
very great; one could not suffer one's hand in it a second. The water
was limpid and tasteless; the earth for a considerable space around was
coated with a white efflorescence, slightly saline; the grass seemed
to thrive in the immediate vicinity. I fancy there was a good deal of
soda in the subsidence of the evaporation, but am too ignorant to offer
more than a conjecture thereon. The natives ascribe valuable medicinal
properties to this water, and, for the purpose of utilising it, have
put up a very rough little bathing shed close to the well.
I shot a hare returning, my dog Sara behaving with the most surprising
intelligence, considering that she has never been taught, nor has she
ever seen game before. Her spaniel blood here shows itself, though
sadly contaminated by mongrel admixture. On return I refreshed my mind
for the assault of the kardar.
Some time after breakfast I saw the horses being got together, my
attendants present, so betook myself to the place, and out of some
fifteen animals could only pass three, the others being miserable
creatures, wretchedly thin, and with terribly galled backs. The
kardar and retinue kept on the opposite side. Having commented on the
miserable condition of these animals offered for my use, I let out at
the unhappy kardar, alluding to my possessing the Maharajah's purwanah,
and the express orders of Basti Ram enjoining on all officials the
duty of supplying my wants, and specially, in this instance, good
horses, which, I said, I knew were to be had. Then, assuming wrathful
indignation, I observed that I had hitherto waited patiently, and
submitted with the utmost moderation to the kardar's trickery and
evasions, but that I must now adopt other measures, and I declared
that if a sufficient number of serviceable horses were not speedily
forthcoming, I would seize the kardar, and strap a load on his back,
and compel him to come with me. This braggadocio style was the thing.
Consternation fell upon kardar, his followers, and all the villagers
standing looking on. I remained scowling at them in truly mock heroic
style to allow of no hope of my relenting: then, seeing that orders
were given, and messengers hurried off in all directions, I retired
from the scene; and in the course of an hour or so a capital lot of
serviceable-looking nags were paraded, on inspecting which I told
the kardar that there was proof positive of the correctness of my
information. He, in a deprecating tone, assured me that these were the
property of merchants, and depasturing here. I must have them anyhow;
and the custom of the country, and the purwanahs I bear, entitle me
to them. And I cannot see any difference between a zemindar's and a
sandagur's horse, only that the latter is the richer of the two, and
can better remedy any inconvenience that he may be subjected to. But
I have positive information that these horses have been detained by
the government, until some transactions of a suspicious character,
smuggling or fraudulent, on the part of the owners (brothers) have been
cleared up, of which there seems no present prospect; so, meantime,
they may as well serve my turn. I shall have in all nineteen or twenty
horses and some twenty-four men in my expedition, for all of which,
biped and quadruped, I must carry food, making this a rather expensive
as well as arduous expedition.
Tar-gness has now, in addition to his matchlock, added a large, rough,
black-and-tan dog to his sporting equipment, which he avers to be no
end of a shikarry, and especially good at shâpu and nâpu. I am glad
to have him, if only as a watch at nights. I am now told that we must
advance four days' journey beyond the Karakorum range for the yâk.
I care not if to the gates of Yarkand, if I do but get my extension
of leave. I should rather like the fun of a 'chappar' there; but my
gunners are such horrid cowards.
The additional rations and some tattoos were promised this evening;
and Abdoolah reporting everything delivered, and the officials waiting
for my receipt and their congèe, I accordingly summoned them to the
presence, and the moonshi reading out all the articles supplied I put
them down verbatim, and gave him the receipt, settlement to be made
on my return; so I avoided all disputes as to price, and now relieved
the kardar from the sense of my displeasure, and we parted apparently
mutually gratified.
9th August. I roused my camp, and, after seeing preparations going on
for packing and loading, set off as usual ahead. The route was similar
to the former, but with more cultivation and grass meadows, and also
large patches of thorn thickets, about which we saw many hares, two or
three together. The last four miles to Chanloong were very barren and
sandy. We crossed a large stream which Abdool said flowed from Sassar,
a mountain we have to cross. We arrived at Chanloong at ten, the
distance some twelve miles. There was only one hut that I could see,
and an enclosure containing a number of willow trees, and some patches
of grain. I was very glad to shelter myself from the sun and glare, the
latter being excessive. My followers and luggage arrived all safe at 2
P.M.
A tremendous dust-storm assailed us in the afternoon, rushing up the
valley with prodigious violence, and filling the air with clouds of
sand and dust, obscuring everything, and particularly disagreeable. It
lulled about 5 P.M.
Just as I had finished dinner, Buddoo informed me that Tar-gness was
going to display his skill with his matchlock, firing at a mark; so I
joined the group of spectators. He set to work in a very methodical
manner, carefully loading the gun, and, having adjusted the match,
he put another man in a befitting attitude to do duty as rest; then,
placing the barrel on his shoulder, aimed and fired. The ball struck
very low: the mark was a piece of paper on a stone, about eighty yards
off. Poor Tar-gness was much chaffed by the shikarries and bystanders,
and all his implements examined and criticised with much ridicule. He
bore it all with the greatest good-humour, and proceeded to try his
luck a second time. His rest was too lively, and could be got into
position with difficulty. This time the ball struck only a foot below
the mark. Tar-gness was encouraged to try again. He now put in more
powder, loading more deliberately than ever, testing the amount of
charge by the finger measurement on the ramrod. And now, his looks
denoting determination and confidence, he posted his rest, aimed
carefully, and fired--when down came the mark. "Sha-bash!" was the
exclamation; and the triumphant marksman looked round with conscious
skill upon his quizzing tormentors of whom Abdool had been prominent,
taking a stick and imitating Tar-gness' motions to the great amusement
of the lookers-on, his queer little wizened face being irresistibly
comic. The sporting appointments were all home-made and very ingenious;
the bullet-mould of a black soft stone in two pieces, fastened by
wooden pegs; the bullet was an elongated sphere, crossed in its length
and breadth by thin raised bands, the spaces they left containing an
ornamental dot. This was Tar-gness' talisman--very curious.
I passed a disturbed night, noises in every direction around me; men
and horses passing to and fro all night; a dog barking in a desperate
manner; and a shrill cock, mistaking the moonlight and the unusual
movements for dawn, keeping up a horrid chanticleering.
10th August. I was glad of the first symptoms of dawn to rise and
rouse the camp. We had a tough job before us as I knew; but I had not
quite reckoned the full extent of it. The path now turned abruptly
from Chanloong to the right, out of the valley, over the eastern range
which, seen from our camp, did not look formidable, but was in fact
the stiffest climb I have had. It occupied us three hours, of which I
walked two, and then, seeing the summit still high above us, I mounted,
which was a great relief to me and to Abdool who was pulling on my
horse. The difference in the dispositions of the three shikarries was
here noticeable in their treatment of their ponies. Subhan got off, and
led his nearly half-way; the other two never once got off, but when
compelled to adjust their saddle-gear, or something of that kind. An
hour after we had started, the baggage animals were still to be seen
down below stationary in the enclosure--provoking sight.
The crest of the mountain was very grand; but the view from it, however
magnificent in its scenery, was by no means inviting to travellers.
We looked down a very steep descent of rugged and sandy slopes, into a
valley of utter sterility up which we had to make our way. Nor did near
approach improve it; for the heaps and masses of stones, through which
we had to scramble and pick our way, were strewed with the skeletons of
the unfortunate horses that had succumbed to the terrible difficulties
of the road. Numbers of them lay bleaching on either hand; sometimes
singly, and at others in dismal groups of four or five, making this
unattractive valley horrid with their ugliness.
We stopped on the bare stones to breakfast, there being nothing better
in prospect, a stream dashing by to the river flowing down the valley;
then, on through the same wilderness of stones. I cannot think how they
came there in the positions and proportions they exhibit. It appears as
though the sides of the mountains had been forced open, and torrents of
rock and stone vomited violently out, and hurled into the valley; or
that the mountain peaks had been riven and shattered by some tremendous
shocks of earthquake, and toppling down had spread their fragments all
around.
We crossed the river by a bridge, and arrived at twelve o'clock at a
shepherd's encampment, our halting place, close to a huge mass of ice
and snow, filling the end of the valley, miles in length. Some rough
loose stone enclosures constituted the abodes of men and cattle; of the
former some half-dozen presented themselves and salaam'd. The whole
place was redolent of the strong smell of goats. There appeared nothing
whatever in the vicinity to eat. All was wild desolation.
I took shelter under a huge stone, the shikarries putting up some
wrappers on sticks to form a screen; and but for the essence of
billy-goat, so pungent as to take one's breath away, I should have
done well enough. Hours passed, and there were no signs of my traps. I
became extremely anxious as the road was so bad, and at five o'clock
went off to reconnoitre alone, and took post on an elevation from
which, through my glass, I descried three horses on a green patch the
other side the river, some three or four miles off, but far above the
bridge. This I could not understand. After a time I saw three men, my
servants, mount these horses, and deliberately ride up along the river
the wrong side, on which the path was but a sheep track, and terminated
in the river at a point where it would be hazardous to attempt to ford.
A coolie appeared in sight on the right side, so I was comforted in
the belief that it was only my three servants that had gone astray. I
watched them anxiously. They rode down to the river, and there stopped
a long time; then into it, but kept in to their own bank. I became
quite nervous for them--quite painfully alarmed lest the poor fellows
should try to remedy their mistake by risking the passage. They were
far beyond sound or sign from me; so I made my way back to camp, and
sent off two Bhooties to render assistance.
I found the shepherds milking their goats, and suddenly bethought me of
a syllabub which, as I was hungry and should not in all probability get
my dinner for hours, would be a pleasant refreshment; so with a modicum
of brandy from the flask and a spoonful of sugar I concocted a pleasant
cheering beverage, vulgarly called 'doctor'--from its medicinal
properties, no doubt. I felt much comforted thereby; and when the
coolies arrived and told us that the servants had turned back to cross
the bridge, and that the animals and baggage had met with no mishap,
but were coming on, I felt I could wait most contentedly their arrival.
We lighted fires both as beacons and for warmth, and also to be ready
for cooking. It was now bitterly cold, and black dark. The coolies came
straggling in; then Abdoolah and Buddoo who reported that Ali Bucks had
got a fall and a ducking, but no harm done. At last all the baggage
came in, at 8.30, and I had a stew warmed up and dined.
I ordered every horse two seers of corn, and went after dinner to
see if it had been given. The grain had been issued, but most of
the rascally drivers had gone off to the Bhoot huts, and left their
disconsolate horses famishing. I kicked up a great row, and Abdoolah
and others rushed about frantically, lugging, hauling, and abusing,
until I saw each 'quad' munching his feed. Poor things! they have
hard times of it. These Bhooties have a most absurd idea which Abdool
revealed, he firmly believing in it, that in this country the horses
should never be allowed grass until sunset, or they swell up and die.
He would have starved my horse on this principle, but that I overruled
his stupid attempt; and the poor baggage cattle would have got nothing
till morning, after their great fatigues and long fast---another
idea--had I not interfered.
11th August. At the first inkling of dawn I halloo'd loudly for Buddoo:
they were all fast asleep, and, after I was ready to start, Abdoolah
and others were still ensconced in their blankets. It was a cold raw
morning, which made me anxious to be moving. The horses were all
astray, except mine, no one having had the sense to send for them.
Mooktoo came to me with a whine, saying that his horse had not eaten
half his corn: I took the opportunity of rebuking him for his selfish
want of consideration to the poor beast yesterday, attributing its
being amiss thereto.
I left the shikarries to await their horses, and went on with Abdool.
It was bitter cold, and I walked long ere the circulation was in
full play, and longed for the sun's now genial beams. The path was a
great improvement on yesterday's, and there was a good deal of grass
scattered about. The route lay due east. Ascending a stiff rocky hill,
an opening in the mountain peaks appeared, which I found to be the pass
of Sassar. I had decided last night to halt at the bottom of the pass,
by the advice of Abdool, and there to pass Sunday, enabling the poor
cattle to rest and pick up a bellyfull of grass which Abdool stated to
be plentiful there; but if it turned out that there was no grass, we
should cross the pass on Sunday morning to the next halt, where grass
was abundant, and wood also. We are carrying wood with us at present.
The valley, as we approached the pass, was blocked up by masses
of stones, in the midst of which were occasional pools of water.
Clambering over these rough heaps, we came in sight of the grand
obstruction to our progress, in an enormous glacier which completely
choked up the valley. Masses of snow lay in all directions, and several
pools of clear water; around which, and elsewhere, I was glad to see a
sufficiency of grass for the horses. I selected a spot for the camp,
and then the shikarries came up, and I found that Phuttoo and Mooktoo
had changed their horses, having knocked theirs up yesterday. I gave
them a bit of my mind, and forbade such tricks in future. The wind was
very cold, blowing off the masses of snow, but the sun excessively
hot--a most unpleasant contrast. This being a short march of about
eight miles, all the baggage came up in good time. Abdool had tied up
the shikarries' tats, and remonstrated at my orders to loose them: the
silly fellow would have kept all the animals fasting during the day.
No wonder so many perish under such cruel privations. Subhan is unwell,
complaining of headache--the effects of the sun and wind, no doubt. I
had the foot of my shuldary closed in with turf-clods to exclude the
biting blast, and prepared plenty of clothes to weather out the night.
12th August. Sunday. I had a very uneasy night of it, suffering from
indigestion, although I dined at five--hare stew too rich, perhaps--but
the principal disturbing cause was the difficulty of respiration, owing
to the extreme rarification of the air at this great height, many
thousands of feet. I waited in painful disquiet till the sun rose;
then turned out, the thermometer in my tent 33°. From the past night's
experience I was doubtful of my health, but after a wash and a cup of
tea found myself all right. Abdoolah told me they had all suffered from
shortness of breath as I had done; so, quite reassured, I went forth to
stroll.
We are in a basin formed by rugged mountains whose many gorges are
filled with immense masses of snow, in ridge and furrow, having the
appearance of mighty rivers suddenly congealed in all the irregularity
of their downward rush. In this basin are many stony hillocks; at
their bases clear pools. I wished to see how the poor horses fared,
and was much pleased to see them apparently enjoying their repose and
pasturage, many lying down, their stomachs proving by their rotundity
that they had made good use of their time. I sat down and watched
them, and was forcibly struck by the wisdom and mercy of the Sabbath
ordinance. Poor wearied beasts! your aching limbs and galled smarting
backs would now be causing you renewed tortures, but for that merciful
decree of the Divine Will. I enjoyed a grateful, peaceful sensation at
my heart in this recognition of the Almighty Creator's loving-kindness.
I came back to camp and enquired after Subhan, who emerged from the
shuldary, and reported himself somewhat better, but that Phuttoo
and Mooktoo were ill; the latter's whining voice was heard in
corroboration, complaining of the cold. These men are in every respect
as comfortable as my domestics, and have the advantage of being inured
to the rigours of a cold climate; whereas the others are denizens of
the sultry plains of the Punjab, and yet they do not complain; though
shivering, they are content and cheery, and, I believe, quite despise
these unmanly hunters.
I continued my stroll up the valley, and ascended a high hillock near
the glacier which presents a truly formidable aspect, its congealed
masses being broken into a multitude of conical peaks which look as
though they bid defiance to any attempt to scale them. Viewed from this
eminence, the icy scene around was grand in the extreme. I overlooked
the upper gorges of the highest mountains, all of which appeared to
converge towards a centre, their immense contents of snow and ice
radiating, as it were, and uniting, the distance blending them and
mysteriously concealing the vast and irregular spaces that really
separated them. The sun was warm and genial, the air sharp and fresh,
under which influences I felt simple existence delightful, and rejoiced
devoutly in being the creature of the Beneficent Creator of these
mighty works.
In the afternoon I walked to the foot of the glacier to examine the
path, and went over a considerable tract of snow, but could not
discover the track up the glacier, which must be very steep and
difficult. On my return the unhappy shikarries, who had remained all
day rolled up in their blankets, crawled to my tent and expressed their
shame at being 'hors-de-combat' without any apparent reason. They all
complained of severe headache, which I attribute to rheumatic pains
contracted from exposure to the bitter cold blasts here blowing. The
stupid fellows have left their tent-poles too high; so that the foot of
their shuldary allows a space of two feet open for the draft to rush
through, and as they sleep on the ground the effect must be striking.
I had advised them on this point, but Asiatic-like they would adopt no
precaution. I again pointed out to them this objectionable gap, and
cheered them up--the miserable beings!--telling them they would be all
right to-morrow, as we expected to meet game. I got them out of the
dumps, and gave them some sugar for their tea, and they retired, and
immediately docked their poles. It was intensely cold, so I retreated
early to the shelter of my canvas.
13th August. I got comfortably through the night under piles of
clothes, and roused up at dawn, the thermometer in my tent at freezing
point. The shikarries had allowed their tats, after being driven in,
to run off again, so I started with Abdool. We got well across the
snow to the foot of the glacier, where we found no regular path, but
had to scramble up a mass of stones and débris on one side of the ice,
almost perpendicular. I feared for the baggage animals. The road was
execrable; nothing but rugged masses of loose sharp-pointed stones.
Of course, riding was out of the question. One side of the pass--the
northern--was free from snow, but piled on high with these masses of
stone: the south side was filled with snow to the consistency of ice a
foot or so from the surface. I should calculate its extent to have been
some four or five miles, with an occasional break where was a basin
and a pool of green water. The route was most uneven, presenting a
succession of ups and downs all but impracticable from the stones. This
gorge was strewed with the skeletons of horses, of which we must have
passed a hundred or more. When I thought that we must have got over the
worst, I found the whole pass blocked up with a distinct glacier over
which we had to climb. But it was less difficult than it looked, the
surface being rough, and crumbling under the tread. There was about a
mile of this; and then a gradual descent to masses of stones similar
to those already passed, through which we scrambled and stumbled until
well down the pass, where the path appeared again, and I mounted.
As we rode down towards the camp, Tar-gness' dog, which was a little
ahead of us with Kamal who carried my breakfast, pursued a large
flock of shâpu, scattering them here and there: a large body of
them, however, stopped and recommenced feeding high up above us.
This looked promising for sport. I alighted at half-past nine, after
five hours' hard work. We found some stone screens, and, piled up by
one, a number of bags of 'charras,' there deposited by some merchant
whose horses had died. I am told that an immense quantity of valuable
merchandise is thus lying about on the Karakorum mountains, awaiting
the owners' leisure for removal. They say it is never robbed, which
says much for the honesty of the natives who pass to and fro; though I
suppose the fact is that none but merchants _do_ travel this road, and
they naturally respect each other's rights, and compassionate their
misfortunes.
The scenery was very grand. Immediately in front rose two enormous
mountains looking black like coal, composed of a slate-like stone; and
beyond them was a broken range of light sand-coloured mountains, seen
through the gorge dividing the former, where I believe our path runs.
Right and left of us lies a valley of the usual sterile appearance,
huge snow-capped mountains shutting it in. It lies, I think, north and
south.
A kafila was announced; and in time there arrived a merchant from
Buduckshan. He had about twenty-five laden horses--small, well-formed,
compact animals. He pitched his tent, a gay, green, flimsy thing; but,
after some conversation with the shikarries, he struck it, and pursued
his way. And a horrible rough one he will find it, poor man! He has
never travelled this road before. I fear he must lose some of those
nice horses, although they are in marvellous good condition. He halted
ten days to refresh them at a place called Sugheit, where is abundance
of grass, and for which I am now making.
My servants and horses arrived all safe, after much difficulty and one
or two falls. I went with Subhan to look for game, and after a length
of time we found, in a deep nullah. I stalked carefully up the stony
hill, and was but just in time, as the herd of nâpu were on the alert,
and fled as I arrived. But I struck true, and saw one lag behind as
they darted down the steep. Blood shewed on the side, and it just
crossed the ravine, and dropped. I fired into the lot going up the
opposite side, and dropped another. We made our way to the prey, two
female nâpu, on which Subhan performed the 'hallal' duly; then, placing
a conspicuous mark by the carcases, we returned to camp, where our
success was a subject of much rejoicing, and sent for the meat.
Two merchants journeying to Yarkand had followed me closely, and joined
my camp. They came to see me while at dinner, and on my jokingly
proposing to accompany them into Yarkand they assured me I might do
it with perfect safety; they would answer for it with their lives. I
talked with them for some time, and felt quite elated at the idea of
visiting that famed city, hitherto hermetically closed to Europeans. I
was quite resolved to attempt the adventure, and what with the day's
sport, this exciting object, and a glass of sherry, I turned in quite
jolly.
When the two animals were brought in, the coolies petitioned for a halt
to mend their shoes, and Tar-gness, who had been out on the other side
after shikar, coming back with the news that he had seen some fine
large-horned nâpu, I consented to a day's halt, and ordered an early
start to hunt.
14th August. A bitter cold morning: and there was a stream to cross,
the stones of which were coated with ice, so that Subhan, the plucky
Subhan, who volunteered to carry me across, fell just on reaching the
other side. We had most difficult climbing up stony steeps: found a
herd of nâpu, male and female, but tried in vain to approach them, as
they first got our wind, and then sighted us; so we descended again
to breakfast near a rivulet. From this spot we descried the herd
crossing a ridge on the mountain, and the males, some ten, remained
behind and lay down. I gazed at them through the glass, and admired
their massive horns. After a time we determined to try and circumvent
them, and pursued our way along the stony slope of the mountain, low
down. But these 'cute creatures spied us, and, I believe, detected
our plot, which was to station ourselves in a ravine crossing their
probable line of retreat, when roused by Tar-gness who was to approach
them by a long detour down wind. I noticed that the suspicious animals
had already faced about in the direction of the new danger. I had
hardly any hopes of success, and told Subhan that I feared Tar-gness
would never go back far enough to drive them in our direction: but the
attempt must be made, and a terrible struggle we had up a ravine, the
surface of which was one mass of loose sharp stones, causing one to
slip back every step. After many a pause to take breath we reached the
requisite height, and I posted the shikarries--Subhan and the guns with
me commanding the passes, Phuttoo and Mooktoo guarding the two ends.
A bitter keen wind nearly blew Subhan and me off our perch, to which
we had climbed with difficulty. Here we waited perhaps two hours, and
then, neither hearing nor seeing anything, descended; which was not
effected without danger. Indeed, I was nearly coming to grief getting
up, as Subhan ahead of me detached a large stone which, by a convulsive
effort, I avoided: had it struck me, it must have hurled me down below,
when nothing less than a broken limb would have resulted.
We made our way down the stony ravine, Subhan and Mooktoo having their
sandals cut off their feet, and completing the day barefooted. We went
back by the river bank, the sand of which better suited the shoeless
pair, and on the way fell in with some ten pair of nâpu horns, some
very fine ones, the animals supposed to have perished in the snows.
It was a bitter cold night, snow and sleet driven by a furious blast
sweeping over the encampment. The poor coolies, how I pitied them! It
was lucky they had a good feast of flesh to keep them in heart.
15th August. To Moorgaby: a march of some twelve miles, rendered very
uncomfortable by having to cross the river which came up to my knees on
my horse, and was very rapid, nearly carrying the horse off his legs.
The shikarries' tattoos, with supporters, got through with difficulty.
The water was as cold as ice, and my extremities being saturated I
dismounted, and tried in vain to recover a pleasant warmth; so sat down
and wrung the water from my socks, and then got on better; but had soon
to remount as the path lay between the two huge black mountains, up a
narrow, savage gorge down which flowed a torrent. This we had to cross
continually. And as, each time, my wetting was renewed by the splashing
of my high-stepping nag, and it was freezing, I endured agonies of
cold, which quite blinded me to the magnificence of the savage grandeur
of the scenery. After two hours of this misery we turned abruptly from
the ravine, and ascended by a gulley to the hill-side, and, surmounting
a stiffish ascent, found a fine open valley before us.
I now thoroughly restored the circulation, and strode on vigorously. A
caravan came in sight; on arriving at which, composed of about twenty
horses, we pulled up, and I chatted some time with the proprietor,
and tried to deal for a horse. But the price did not suit. Some fifty
more laden horses came up; and I tried to bargain for some Thibet
boots for my followers. The first merchant was reasonable, but had no
stock for sale; the others were exorbitant, and the business concluded
by the former, after much altercation with his partners (I presume),
presenting me with two pair, saying he had received more kindness from
the 'saheb-logue' than he could ever repay. He is an Affghan. The
merchants accompanying my party are from Cabul, and also profess the
utmost regard and respect for the English. This liberal fellow gave us
most encouraging accounts of the abundance of game at Sugheit, and at
another place nearer, where he himself had killed a fine antelope which
intruded amongst and frightened his horses. There were numbers of kyang
there. This place is three or four stages off. My new acquaintance is
going to Lahore, where he promises to pay his respects to me, should he
have left Ladâk before my return.
We continued our march, much exhilarated by the reports of shikar; and
after some three or four miles of level ground, the valley narrowing
to a mere ravine, we halted in a sort of swamp affording a good bite
of grass. We found five or six pair of nâpu horns, but could perceive
no recent traces of those animals. The baggage arrived in good time,
except the sheep and goats which had to be carried across stream, a
work of much time and trouble. When they did arrive at night, one of
the poor goats appeared with a horn broken, and evidently suffering
much. The evening set in very cold. A storm driven by a furious blast
roared down the valley; but shortly expending itself, the swift-passing
clouds made way for the welcome sun whose departing beams were most
cheering.
After dinner, which I eat shivering with cold, and at which,
by-the-bye, figured a dish of rhubarb I had gathered on the hill-side,
of which there is abundance, I went to warm myself at the small fires
of my followers, where they were preparing their frugal fare; that
of the Bhooties consisting of simple hot water and bread. A large
copper vessel was on the fire round which they sat, and one ladled
out this mild liquor into the cups of the squatting group. These
cups are remarkable, being carved from a very handsome brown striped
satin-wood. They come from our hill-states. Each Bhoot carries one
which constitutes his entire stock of _crockery_. From this party I
turned to my kitchen fire, where cakes were in course of preparation.
I got a plate of tea, and returned to the Bhoot party, and, to their
infinite delight, produced the tea which, however, they intercepted as
I was pouring it into the vessel, reserving half for a future meal.
They greeted me with many 'johoos,' and eyes glistening with pleasure.
Poor creatures! a little kindness is excessively appreciated by them.
Now took place a very curious and important operation--the brewing
the real tea--not the 'make-believe,' as the Marchioness styled
the choice liquors she concocted for Dick Swiveller. The tea being
immersed, a ladle of ghee is put in, and four or five table-spoons
of salt added: then much stirring and mixing takes place, a curious
implement being used to froth the beverage, like what in the navy in
my younger days--perhaps, the very name now forgotten--was called a
'swizzle-stick' which, by rapid revolution between the hands, aerated
the grog in the tumbler, giving it a pleasant sparkling appearance and
freshness of flavour. Many a time I applied it in my first voyage from
England to Hobart Town, viâ Canada, instructed by the veteran purser,
Tucker; and a by no means contemptible beverage it made in tropical
latitudes at eight bells. Well, the tea well mixed, and frothed, and
repeatedly tasted, was ladled out to the anxious party, and much
relished; of whom some, opening their flour-sacks alongside of them,
concluded their meal by mixing up as much flour as would soak up the
tea, and form a paste which was kneaded with the fingers, and then
devoured with much relish. This is the ordinary mode of tea-drinking
among this people; but when a tea-fight is given, the compos is, of
course, entirely prepared in the one vessel, and served out, of the
consistency of strong gruel.
16th August. To Bursey: a long fatiguing march of about fifteen miles.
Our route now lay north, and led up the sandy bed of a much-divided
river. We ascended and descended two formidable heights, bulging out
from the mountains, which was very laborious work, the path being deep
in grit. About twelve o'clock, from the wide sandy channel we were
moving up some animals were discovered, which on examination turned out
to be shâpu. They looked as large as bara sing. I dismounted, and,
leaving the horses with the trusty Abdool, went in pursuit with every
prospect of success. We followed a nullah, screening us and leading
to the rear of the position; from this we cautiously emerged, but our
advanced scout, Subhan, in vain strained his eyes for a sight of our
game. We moved from place to place, and at last were compelled to
accept the unwelcome conviction that the quadrupeds had instinctively
outwitted the reasoning bipeds, and defeated their well-contrived
plot. And, indeed, we soon saw them far in the distance; so we made
straight for our horses, and resumed our weary way up the sandy
plain--excessively wearisome--every hundred yards crossing the stream,
or one of its innumerable offsets. My endurance was greatly taxed by
holding in front the fidgetty Sara whose feet, poor little fellow!
were very sore from the stones. We passed one or two places which we
thought would prove the halt, but the inexorable Abdool, his thin wiry
limbs apparently unsusceptible of fatigue, pointing ahead, still strode
on, helping himself over the streams with a staff, and grinning and
muttering something unintelligible when addressed, like a menagerie
baboon.
At length, we did halt on a bare expanse of shingle under a rock,
without a vestige of vegetation--a bad look-out for the cattle.
It was now about 3.30 P.M. The equestrian party arrived about
five; but the coolies, carrying the kheltas and provisions, were
far in the rear, nor did they come in till eight or nine. Luckily
I had some remnants of cold meat from my breakfast, on which, with
some fresh chupatties and tea, I dined as well as though I had been
at mess. I attended the Bhoot tea-party again, and watched their
operations, warming myself by their fire. I also had another confab
with the merchants about Yarkand, and the feasibility of an invasion
on my part: they are not so encouraging as they were. I saw each horse
provided with two seers of grain (wheat), and turned in. An exceedingly
sharp frost.
17th August. To Pulu: a long march of, I should think, little under
eighteen miles. There was a great improvement in the road, the first
part of which led up the wide sandy channel as yesterday: the running
waters were covered with ice, and the air was bitterly cold. The many
streams necessitated riding, the consequence being extreme suffering
from cold in hands and feet. After four or five miles, a tract less
intersected by streams allowed me to dismount, when I led off at a
sharp trot, but had hardly sped sixty paces, when I was summarily
checked by suffocation, my lungs heaving up and down violently, craving
for inflation, but deriving no relief from the thin atmosphere. I
fell leaning upon a large stone luckily at hand, and then underwent
something very like death. I asked myself, 'Is this death seizing me?'
The paroxysm did not--nor could it--last more than a few seconds, when
with many long-continued gasps I gradually felt my lungs in play again,
and will take good care not to put them out of gear again in a hurry.
We threaded some wild narrow ravines, only allowing the torrent which
cleft them passage; then we emerged into sunshine, a valley opening
out, and hills and peaks stooping down, until we found ourselves
ascending a smooth gradual elevation, from the top of which, rolling
away from our feet, was an immense, wavy, undulating table-land,
stretching away on all sides, bounded in the distance by much-broken
ranges of snow-clad mountains, but presenting no remarkable features.
This elevated plain being some 17,000 feet above the sea, its
excrescences did not, I imagine, protrude more than 1000 or 2000 feet
out of its surface. The utmost sterility imaginable held desolate sway
around. But the vast expanse spread out, after our long intercepted
vision, and the beautiful tints and varied forms of the distant
mountains, composed a magnificent landscape. Abdool, recognising some
familiar features, broke out into exclamations, hailing the objects
interesting him, and turning round to us with a glowing face--if such
an expression can be applied to such a mummy-like phiz--to notice the
impression made upon us. There is some enthusiasm in that scarecrow, I
do believe.
The track through this desert was lined by the bleached bones of
horses, strongly recalling the old route from Suez to Cairo, and,
here and there, large fragments of a skeleton form--portions of the
vertebræ, for instance--were propped up by stones to serve as landmarks
to the traveller. On mounting the crest of a rise, I noticed an object
in the path below, which looked like a huge animal, by the side of the
remains of a horse. It proved to be an enormous hyena: from its size
and appearance, I should think a rare species. After a short scrutiny
it leisurely cantered away, giving many a backward glance at the
unwelcome disturbers of its morning meal. From many tracks of these
animals on the path, I suppose them to be numerous here, following
the caravans, and revelling on the carcases of horses, victims to the
privations of the journey. This unclean beast was a fitting object to
complete the dismal 'ensemble' of this dreary waste.
Looming in the distance fronting us now appeared an approaching
caravan, undergoing those strange transitions of appearance, those
transformations under the mysterious effects of mirage, so common
in the atmosphere of the desert--now swelling out laterally, then
diminishing and towering aloft to most unnatural proportions, all
the time swayed and agitated by glimmering waves of chiaraoscura,
defying the eye in its attempt to define the forms immersed in this
ever-oscillating, quivering, atmospheric flood. Startled by this
alarming vision, a dozen or so of antelopes came trooping down, giving
our party a wide berth. And having now been some four hours on foot,
and there being appearance of water at hand, we determined to halt and
make an attempt on the antelope, pending the arrival of the far-behind
Kamal with the breakfast.
The leaders of the caravan came up, with some thirty horses, and we
exchanged courteous greetings, and received confirmatory intelligence
of the merits of Sugheit, both as a place of refreshment and shikar.
One of the sandagurs carried in front of him a large bundle of clothing
containing a child--a boy, I imagine--looking, poor little chap! pale
and sick with cold. It was an uninteresting, mealy-faced child, with a
very marked obliquity of vision, but I felt much compassion for him;
he wore such a look of patient suffering. They vanished in space:
and we, leaving Abdool in charge of the horses--what a desolate,
forlorn creature he looked thus forsaken!--set off on our excursion.
And far we wandered, but only on our return saw animals far in the
distance--perhaps of the herd before seen, or may be others--when we
turned our steps towards our living mark just visible, an undefined,
quivering heap.
The remainder of the caravan hove in sight, a seemingly long string of
horses, also exaggerated and palsied by the flickering medium through
which we looked on them. I sent off Subhan to bring Abdool and Co. to
a point we would make for, intersecting the road, and so saving us a
long round: we then continued our route towards the mountains, and on
arriving at their lower spurs connecting them with this table-land we
descended to an extensive valley, watered by a rapid and a wide, but
shallow, river. Some patches of grass were visible, on which were some
animals grazing here and there. The ground was too level and void of
covert to admit of much hope of stalking them; but I made the attempt
with Subhan, and in spite of every precaution of tactics experience
lent us--crawling a long distance on all fours, much to our personal
inconvenience--the wary creatures (antelope) kept out of reach of harm,
contenting themselves with keeping us at arm's length, as it were. Thus
baffled, we rejoined our party, and pursued our journey, I resolving
after these repeated discomfitures not to attempt again to approach
these knowing inhabitants of the desert, they being as wild as though
they had been hunted every day the last six months.
A gradual ascent crossing two shallow rivers brought us to Pulu, where
on a bare plain, under a spur projecting into it, and under its angle
abutting on the bed of a stream, are three rude huts; all around which
are closely strewed the bones of horses, of which I counted fifty
from one spot. A whole caravan must have perished here in the snow, I
should think. The baggage (equestrian) arrived about five, but there
was no hope of the coolies for hours. Abdoolah, however, had provided
against such a contingency, having with him a reserved portion of the
game killed the other day, and the canteen for cooking; so I fared
excellently well, the chops being exceedingly good and tender. I
ordered each horse two seers of grain, and one in the morning, this
being the second day without a bit of grass. The cold was excessive;
the huts a great comfort to my retinue.
We cross the mighty Karakorum range to-morrow--a great event. The
ascent is said to be easy, and the road good. Indeed, I believe the
great difficulties in our journey to have been surmounted at Bursey.
But the want of grass and fuel still attends us. The night was horridly
cold, the difficulty of breathing great. I heaped all the clothes on
I possessed; but the keen frosty wind would not be denied, and found
entrance through the chinks of my armour.