that the island has of novelty or interest, measuring, as it does, only
fourteen miles in length and eight in width. In the first place, it is
not only founded upon a rock, but it _is_ a rock; the _debris_ of coral
reefs up to within a few inches of the surface. This surface is clothed
with a light soil, which in the country is clothed with a light verdure,
mostly of shrubs, briers, and weeds, interspersed here and there with
stray dwarfed palms and cocoas. Occasionally the curious cotton-tree is
found, with wide patriarchal branches covered with delicate green
leaves, or else with a long, large pod full of perfect cotton to all
appearances, perhaps intents, but not purposes, for it is proved to be
useless. The roots of this tree, doubtless for want of soil, grow very
much out of the ground, living in the air almost as much as the
branches. In the town and its suburbs, oranges, bananas, sabadillas,
mangoes, etc., are cultivated extensively, giving the whole place from a
distance the air of an inhabited garden.
The streets and roads are a phenomenon. Every one is of solid rock
covered with some kind of cement most dazzling to the eyes in its
whiteness; so much so, that strangers are advised to never go out
without veils. I see many of the inhabitants wearing blue and green
glasses. But no rain or drought can affect them; never mud, never dust;
always as smooth and white and clean as the cement floors in the parlors
of Havana.
I am more than anything else impressed with the quantity and quality of
the negro element. There are, according to statistics, eight black to
one white person, but in passing the streets you would suppose the
pepper to be more than the rule, and the salt less than the exception.
Bless me! how they bubble and swarm in every street, every corner, every
alley, every hut; to each man two women, to each woman at least a dozen
babies; and men, women, and children always idle, and intensely
contented with their idleness; fat, and lusty, and happy, and
good-for-nothing. I think no one can come from a slave country to this
without acknowledging the obtrusive difference, the increased appearance
of happiness; if jolly contentedness can be called so. And rapidly as
they increase in the States, no colored fertility can match this, where
babies are undoubtedly indigenous to the soil, cuticle though it is.
Every way I turn I expect to see a head just budding from the ground,
hands sprouting, wool germinating, or possibly a foot grown uppermost,
with the rest of the dawning body just bursting from the ground, and
like Milton’s hind, or calf, or some other quadruped in Eden, “pawing to
get free.”
If I were to ask one of these bouncing negresses, as Willis did, what
curiosity or product peculiar to the island I could find to carry home,
I should unquestionably get the same answer,--except that his, being on
the island of Martinique, was in French,--“_Bien que les enfants. En
voulez-vous?_”
_Saturday, April._--This evening a drive on the “Eastern Road,” the
Paseo of Nassau.
I thought the air in Cuba unparalleled, but this is freer, purer; an
always fresh and warm-enough seabreeze. It has a richness, roundness,
completeness; it is not a thin, sharp, cutting melody, but a perfectly
elaborated harmony. In what a gentle, healing affectionate way it
possesses one, interpenetrating all the sensitive fevered fibres of the
lungs like a blessing, or like a spirit full of blessings, bringing with
it vitality, repose, and life!
In our drive we met all the _beau monde_ of Nassau, the government
officers and families, with their always English faces and figures,
which are in strikingly redundant contrast with the consumptive
Americans seated up and down our hotel table. One thing assures me that
I am not in Spanish Cuba, with her tenacity for national customs and
habits; a tenacity for which I, coming from the shifting fancies of
Yankeedom, sincerely honor her. It is this: We are once more in a land
of gloves and bonnets. How stiff are these London exported bonnets
compared with those exquisitely graceful Spanish veils, or prettier
hair-ornamented Spanish heads; and as for the gloves, I can now
understand without surprise that when Cubans first saw foreigners
wearing gloves they supposed them used to hide some frightful blemish or
deformity.
Our drive lay along the shore of this extraordinary bay, with its long
parallel lines of brightest, lightest blue and pea-green, contrasting
with the dark ultramarine purples and browns of all hues and densities,
sometimes shading into each other, again preserving themselves, in spite
of all republican efforts of the wind, clearly distinct. The cause of
this phenomenon, I am told, is still a disputed question among the
scientific. On the other side of the bay are built the cottages of
wreckers and fishermen, the latter including those who dive for sponges,
many of which we saw lying about in immense heaps; also those who dive
for conch shells, which are exported in large quantities to France to be
used in various artistic manufactures. The shores are covered with
superannuated and dilapidated conchs, bleaching in the sun and calcining
in the waves.
Another novelty is the turtle houses, built of poles out in shallow
water, in such a way that the water can get freely in and out, while the
self-roofed crawlers do neither the one nor the other.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
X.
_The Military Church--The Zouave Costume--Sunday come
again--Twilight Rambles--The Kirk--Miscegenation--A Private
Misery--The Old Fort--Lazy Negroes--Wrecking--The Town
Library--Shopping--The Zouave Band--The Search for Coolness--The
Government House--Silver key--Buying Shellwork--Nassau grows
Purgatorial--Farewell to Nassau._
SUNDAY, April 15th.
One of the ladies having invited me to accompany her to the military
church, we started early, hoping to arrive in time for the military
music and procession, but both were over. Everybody was quietly
assembled in the church, a plain, old-fashioned building, with large
windows wide open, and between them numerous tablets and inscriptions.
Two clergymen officiated; the English officers occupied the front pews;
a few chance visitors besprinkled the body of the church, while thickly
packed in the background, or blackground, were the soldiers with tall,
fine forms, Moorish features, and jet-black skins. The gallery was also
filled by them; the services and hymns were played by their band, and
sung by their choir; all the colored people above and below responded
heartily from open prayer-books during the entire service, and listened
with intelligent interest to the sermon. This was a farewell discourse
from their young pastor of the last year: it was appropriate in spirit,
but so mouthed and mumbled that I scarcely comprehended a word of it.
When, at last the services were over, the black soldiers,--for all the
soldiers on the island are black,--with their white officers, filed in a
long procession while performing certain military evolutions, and then
marched off to the music of a quiet march.
A novel feature of all this was the quaint and picturesque Zouave
costume of the soldiers, which has within a few months been
adopted,--the bright red embroidered jacket, white sleeves, full blue
Turkish trousers, caught just below the knee into a leathern leggin
which half conceals the shoe; the pretty red cap, with a white turban
twisted gracefully around the crown, from which hangs a huge yellow silk
tassel,--all this entire wild and oriental dress harmonizes so
completely with these black, well-formed, often handsome faces and
stately forms, and with this gorgeous sunlight and tropical brightness
of coloring everywhere, that these soldiers seem things wholly unique
and original, beings born just as they are from the burning maternal
heart of this bounteous nature. How mean and modern these
Parisian-dressed men looked beside them! Never were stove-pipe hats so
high and stiff--mathematical tailoring so prim and prosaic and square
cut![A]
[A] The Zouave costume having been so universally worn by soldiers of
the United States, since the above was written, it has, of course,
lost what was its greatest charm--its novelty.
In every thing we constantly see the complete dissimilarity of the
islands of Cuba and New Providence, and in nothing more than in the
recognition of Sunday. A few hours’ sail floats you down through
centuries; from much poetry, it is true, alas! to much prose, but
nevertheless from the dark ages to one of civilization, and from a chain
of weeks linked together by no golden clasp into a country where one
seventh of the time the Presence comes so near that you can hear--if you
have ears to hear--the trailing of its robes down the dismal steps of
all the following week.
_Monday, 16th._--Last evening we commenced a twilight ramble which
terminated at the kirk.
As our walk had been a little long, we sat down to rest, before
arriving, on a little retired rock, commanding bay, city, and clouds of
perfumes from neighboring gardens. Presently a tremendous explosive
sound took place just behind us, and continued on in a perpetual
thundering till we came near being as much petrified as the rock under
us. I had only sense enough left to discover that it was undoubtedly the
church-bell inviting to the house of quiet. But why so tremendous a
summons? Is it to ring out the piety of the entire island? or to break
into shivering fragments the after-dinner naps of the church-goers? or
to deafen them in defence of the stupid sermon to come? or perchance it
may be to call the mermaids and respectable shell-conchs, and other
residents of the surrounding vasty deep? With my questions still
unanswered, we arose to go, and on turning the first corner found that
close behind the wall where we had been sitting, in a little low shelter
for the purpose, situated in the remotest corner of the church grounds,
was the ordinary-sized bell, that had seemed terrifically loud, not from
its size, but from its proximity. Why this wretched attempt at a
campanile is preferred to our method of enthroning the bell on the
pinnacle of the temple, I cannot divine.
The kirk we found even plainer and less tasteful than the established
church of the morning. The noble-faced but prosy clergyman, a
Presbyterian in gown and scarf of the Episcopal clergy; the excellent
though a little shrill-voiced choir, composed entirely of mulattoes.
Just before services began, a handsome lady, well dressed, and whiter
than myself, walked into one of the central pews, followed by a tall,
equally well dressed and perfectly black husband. This is the only
negation of races I have seen, and I cannot tell if it is often
paralleled.
_Monday evening._--I impart to you a private piece of misery. My windows
overlook, and, still worse, overlisten the poultry yard, where
med-_lays_ and _mêlèes_ and sound-_lays_ make the “nights hideous,” as
well as the mornings. The reason is, these West Indian chickens have no
respect for almanacs. They not only ignore the comings and goings of the
sun, but they have no shadow of respect for his definite intentions
that everybody should sleep in his absence. In short, which means in
long, very long, they crow all night, insisting on waking at eleven
o’clock to inform me that the daylight has gone, just as conscientiously
as at one to assert that it is coming, and at four to suggest that it
has just arrived. The geese, the turkeys, the guinea-hens, and, most
vociferous of all, the ducks, are equally assiduous in performing their
vocal responsibilities. No wonder they turn to universal lungs and come
on the table pathetic carcasses, painful relics, poultryitic proof that
bipeds fare best when sound is sacrificed to substance.
A drive this evening on the “Western Road,” which, like all the other
roads, is of smooth solid rock. It lies along the sea shore, where
shells are said to abound; but my enthusiasm, as well as feet, was sadly
dampened by fruitless searchings on the sharp wave-riddled rocks, and
the equally infertile sand-beach.
A little way out of town stand the curious ruins of a fort, built by the
Spaniards when they possessed this island; for you must know, it was
handed about from one government to another, changing hands half a dozen
times or more before England could get a secure hold. Victoria now finds
it a constant drain on her treasury, but, good mother that she is! her
feeble children are nourished and supported with no less fidelity than
that with which the strong ones sustain her.
The fort is circular, with a curious pointed, perfectly solid wing on
one side, the design of which nobody can now discover. Another fort,
built by the Spaniards on the hill opposite my window, has the same
singular appendage, which is, however, well preserved and appropriated
to some military use.
The ruined fort which we passed possesses a subterranean passage,
leading to the government house, in which are numerous mysterious
apartments, having the always-attractive reputation of being haunted. At
various times, various ladies and gentlemen have undertaken to penetrate
them, but these irreverent pursuers of spirits under difficulties are
always summarily dismissed by the inhospitable ghost.
Farther on, we found numerous desolated plantations, presided over by
dilapidated country houses. It is universally found, that since the
emancipation of the slaves, some thirty years since, the impoverished
owners are obliged to abandon their estates.
The negroes now cannot be coaxed or hired or driven to work more than is
absolutely necessary to keep soul and body from a divorce. No public
improvements have been built since the emancipation. It is doubtless
true that the wrecking trade, which of late years is become so
flourishing, has, in its speculating, I may say gambling, influences,
had a tendency to destroy legitimate industry. What is the use of
working their black fingers to the bone, when any day an ill wind may
blow them enough good or goods to make everybody rich? when any wind
that is good for anything, and knows what it is about, comes to them
dressed in silks and satins of the latest fashion, sometimes with a
Paris bonnet on its head, sometimes loaded with jewelry which it lays
at their feet, and begs they will be good enough to accept as a present.
_April 17th._--The town library is well filled with books, excellently
bound, none of them in paper or muslin. It has also a respectable number
of curiosities; there we pass a pleasant early morning hour.
To-day my first shopping excursion in Havana. We heard enticing accounts
of the great bargains to be made here, not only in wrecked goods, but in
English importations free of duty. I found, however, nothing of the
sort; on the contrary, heaps of wrecked and damaged goods lying about
the doors of the shops, or strewn upon the sidewalks; mostly sell as
high as the same thing uninjured in New York.
These merchants are constantly in the practice of wetting and wilting
their superannuated goods in salt water and then displaying them as
wrecked articles, thus imposing on foreigners and ignorant customers,
who suppose that, as a matter of course, they are making “stunning
bargains.”
After dinner, like everybody else, we drove to hear the Zouave band. On
Tuesday and Friday afternoons they find themselves the centre of a large
admiring carriage audience. On benches ranged immediately around them,
are seated crowds of colored nurses with English infants, while older
children are running and playing everywhere with the sweet inexhaustible
happiness which children find in every clime under the sun.
These Africans play operatic music with expression as well as
precision. Like all the negroes of these English islands, they are
taught reading, writing, and the elements of an ordinary school
education. The surgeon of the army tells me that their ready emotional
nature and quickness for time and tune, nearly atone for the, to them,
unattainable intellectual and artistic culture ordinarily necessary to
the full expression of these musical compositions.
We everywhere find coolness the thing most sought by these adopted
children of the sun. Witness their universal white linen umbrellas to
whose blinding glare no coolness could ever reconcile me. Witness also
the prevailing thick, white flannel coats, vests, and trousers worn by
the gentlemen as a morning and business dress. In a country where dust
and mud are matters of merely books and faith, and where perspiration is
a matter for draughts of air to manufacture fevers of, this soft, cool,
non-conducting dress has its advantages.
As we were coming out from tea this evening, General P---- called over
the bannisters to know if we were ready for the usual game of whist. We
found him in the upper parlor, seated opposite the rocking-chair, which
nobody will occupy at whist but myself. I find in him qualities not
often combined in a whist-player,--scientific skill, and what I am far
more capable of appreciating, patience and kind encouragement for the
mistakes of his partner.
_Wednesday evening, April 17th._--This morning the General knocked at
our door to say that the United States Consul would be here at
half-past three, with his carriage, to carry us up to the Government
House, this being the reception day of Mrs. B----, its mistress. We
went, accordingly, to find the walks and house filled with coming and
going guests. On sending in cards we were at once ushered into the
drawing-room, where was her ladyship seated in one corner of a sofa,
without crinoline, which she has never worn. There is character for you!
Her dress and cap were of some gauzy material tinctured with purple; the
same color looked from the underside of her point lace collar and cuffs,
and after my turn was over for commonplaces, I had leisure, or seized it
from the stupid conversation of Doctor somebody on the other side of me,
to discover that the lady’s face was full of culture and spirit, and
that her high-toned guests perfectly agreed with me in the opinion. A
grand piano occupied one side of the octagon room, its polished feet,
like those of its mistress, standing upon a bare, shining oak floor; the
wide open windows commanded a triple view of sea, valley, and forest. As
we came out Mr.----, the graceful bachelor consul, registered our names
in a book kept for the purpose and then brought us home.
_Friday, April 20th._--A boat ride yesterday morning, followed by a long
exhausting walk on the bare beach of Hog Island, which lies stretched
out in front of Nassau for the apparent purpose of making a harbor. All
this fatigued out of me every writing possibility. But to-day we sailed
delightfully over to Silver Key, one of the many uninhabited little
islands that lie within a few hours’ sail of Nassau. The gentlemen were
obliged to wade from the boat to the shore; the ladies were curiously
carried in the arms of the sailors. But we soon forgot the awkwardness
of this novel locomotion in the exciting pleasure of collecting the
pretty shells, corals, sea-fans, and sea-stars, with which we loaded our
pockets, pocket-handkerchiefs, and the arms of the sailors and
gentlemen.
Our sailors insist that all these little islands still contain gold and
silver, buried long ago by the pirates, who first of all discovered and
inhabited them. It is true that a fruitless expedition from the United
States once came to make search.
As we passed down the bay, we had a new view of the two or three
“slavers” that lie at anchor. One of them was years ago tossed on the
shore and nearly wrecked by a tornado. The others are noble ships left
deserted to waste and decay in the storms and sunshine. They are fair
but doomed and desolate monuments of a foul traffic, and of a silent
wrath which corrodes their falling masts and haunts like black ghosts
their misery-memoried cells.
_April 21st._--This afternoon looking for shell-work, for which Nassau
is famous. Among other manufactures, we found two maiden sisters living
alone in a little rose-vined cottage. The room was full of natural
curiosities, drawings, and a variety of handiwork discoursing decided
taste and talent. They sold me some very curious sponges and sea-fans,
and kindly gave me a spirited drawing in water colors, representing a
native woman carrying her baby in a bag on her back, according to a
very general custom here. We found these maidens truly intelligent and
polite. Since our return we learn that their mother was a perfectly
black negro, their father formerly a governor of the island.
We ended our drive by visiting a famous banyan-tree, and by an attempt
to stretch it, which hordes of provokingly critical mosquitoes
frustrated. This tree most commonly grows as a parasite on the Pride of
India, a fine native tree, which is often at last hugged to death by its
_soi-distant_ friend.
Returned home after dark, past cottages and country-houses in which not
a single light was burning, a precautionary defence against mosquitoes.
_May 7th._--All these languid days a constant south wind, bringing
intense incapacity for every effort. My pen, a seldom skipping
grasshopper, is indeed become a burden; it refuses to help me “lift the
weight of the superincumbent hour,” even for you.
Our second week here made to us the fatal revelation that Nassau had
exhausted its claims to interest. Since that time the heat alone has
been enough to legitimize its claim to being a mild Purgatory, from
which no prayers, penances, or even money could release us, there being
no escape except by the monthly steamer.
A few pleasant events, it is true, have medicated this ennui. Amongst
them was a musical soiree, for which General P---- procured us tickets,
an amateur affair for benevolent purposes. It had a charming duett or
two on the harp and piano, one on the cornet, extremely graceful. Then
there was an evening out to tea; then there were a few kindly lent
books. But the crowning event was the welcome advent of the steamer on
its way to Havana, once more establishing us in a world from which we
seem to have been vanished a century. It brought fresh news, fresh
letters, fresh promises of home.
Floods of rain came too, at last, drowning out the heat, baptizing these
air-gormandizing trees, filling the drained wells with assurances that
we will not just now
“Die of thirst with all the waters near.”
It is a curious fact that the tide rises and falls regularly every day
in these wells. With the exception of one or two small lakes in the
interior, no other water is found on the island, which may help to
explain the fact that it had no indigenous animals.
_Thursday night, May 10th._--I sit alone by the waxen taper in my room
to write my parting with Nassau--to end for the present my
pen-peregrinations. But I fear I cannot muster one decorous sigh for the
occasion. Everybody is going; there will be many partings but few
farewells. I will leave with you and with memory those tropical
experiences, knowing that, whatever _you_ may do with them, memory is
like all other sextons--he buries more than he exhumes. The full-packed
trunks, carpet-bags, and boxes of curiosities around me, are welcome
reminders that early to-morrow morning the good ship Karnak will
breathe a welcome breath through her two great red nostrils and will
wind and puff her way around the lighthouse in search of us.
THE END.
* * * * *
[Illustration]
A Catalogue of
BOOKS
ISSUED BY
CARLETON,
NEW YORK.
[Illustration]
Madison Square,
_corner of_
5th Avenue and Broadway.
1870.
[Illustration]
“_There is a kind of physiognomy in the titles
of books no less than in the faces of
men, by which a skilful observer
will know as well what to expect
from the one as the
other._”--BUTLER.
[Illustration]
NEW BOOKS
And New Editions Recently Issued by
CARLETON, Publisher, New York,
[Madison Square, corner Fifth Av. and Broadway.]