Beagle and Adelaide anchor in Possession Bay--Beagle passes the First
Narrow--Fogs--Pecket Harbour--Adelaide arrives with Guanaco-meat--
Portuguese Seamen--Peculiar light--Party missing--Return--Proceed towards
Port Famine--Fuegians--Lieut. Skyring--Adelaide sails to survey Magdalen
and Barbara Channels--Views--Lyell Sound--Kempe Harbour--Cascade Bay--San
Pedro Sound--Port Gallant--Diet--Rain--Awnings--Boat cruise--Warning--
Jerome Channel--Blanket bags--Otway Water--Frequent rain--Difficulty in
lighting fires.
The following is an account of the Beagle's and Adelaide's operations,
after separating from the Adventure, on the 1st of April, at the entrance
of the Strait of Magalhaens.
Light northerly winds were favourable for their entering the Strait, and
they reached Possession Bay the first night. The following day was foggy,
and almost calm, until the afternoon, when both vessels weighed, and
proceeded with the tide. At sunset the Adelaide anchored on the north
shore; but the Beagle stood on, and entered the Narrow. After dark, when
within it, with a rapid tide running, the wind fell light, and an anchor
was let go, under the north shore, in eight fathoms; but the cable being
accidentally checked too soon, snapped like a small rope, and the vessel
was hustled out into deep water. As it would have been both useless and
imprudent to let go another anchor, the Beagle was kept underweigh, and
worked to the westward, aided by a very powerful tide, which speedily
carried her through the Narrow, without accident, although the night was
dark; and they had no guide but the chart and lead. At eleven o'clock she
was anchored within the Narrow, in twelve fathoms, soon after which the
tide turned, and ran with great strength; but the night was calm, as well
as the next morning.
While waiting for wind, and the change of tide, several Patagonian Indians
were observed on horseback hunting {213} guanacoes. A very large dead
cod-fish was also seen, floating past, which was taken on board; on its
skin were several parasites.[128]
With the evening tide the Beagle reached Gregory Bay; and the next day
(April 4th) worked through the Second Narrow, and anchored in Pecket
Harbour.
As soon as she arrived people were sent on shore to make a large fire, to
show the natives where the ship was, and attract them to her. Next morning,
the 5th, it had spread very much, and overrun several acres of ground,
which showed either a very dry soil, or that there had not been much rain
for some time. The ground was covered with cranberries; so much so, that it
had quite a red tinge; they were very good. Plenty of wild celery was
found, but no wood of any kind. Water was obtained in small quantities,
from a spring about eighty yards from the beach, abreast of the anchorage:
it may also be procured by sinking wells. Early on the 6th of April the
Adelaide anchored near the Beagle. Captain Fitz Roy went on board, and
found that Lieutenant Graves had seen the Indians in Gregory Bay; and had
anchored there for the purpose of obtaining guanaco meat, of which he got
about nine hundred pounds weight. Thick fogs had prevented his getting
through the First Narrow until the 4th. At Gregory Bay, Lieutenant Graves
took three Portuguese seamen on board, who claimed his protection, having
been left by an English sealing vessel nearly a year before. One of them
asked to be again put ashore, and was landed on Quoin Hill to carry a
message to the Indians, from whom he promised to bring a supply of meat in
two days. The other two were entered on the books as supernumeraries, and
employed in the Adelaide. Having given the Beagle two-thirds of the meat,
the Adelaide weighed; and in two hours was out of sight, on her way to Port
Famine.
{214}
The following are extracts from Captain Fitz Roy's journal of this cruise
of the Beagle.
"Monday 7th April. Several of our people were employed in gathering
cranberries, and preserving them for future use; they are anti-scorbutic,
as well as the wild celery, much of which has been used with our guanaco
soup.
"Wednesday, 8th. I went to Oazy Harbour with Lieutenant Skyring, who
surveyed the harbour while I examined the cove to the northward.
"Oazy Harbour appears large, but the part where there is anchorage is very
small, and a strong tide sets in and round it, by which a bank is thrown
up, a short distance inside the entrance; there is very little wood, and
some difficulty in obtaining fresh water, even in a small quantity. The
anchorage outside might be more convenient for procuring guanaco meat from
the Indians than Gregory Bay, but it is exposed to winds between W.S.W. and
S.S.E.
"At my return to the Beagle, I was much surprised to find that Lieutenant
Kempe, Mr. Bynoe, and a boy, had not yet come back from a shooting
excursion. A boat had been to the appointed place at sun-set, and had
waited an hour without seeing them. At seven, a light was seen on the top
of Quoin Hill, and I sent a boat to the spot, with cautions about landing,
being in doubt whether it was shown by them or by the Indians; but the
boatswain, who went with her, could find no person, nor any light. He
waited some time, and returned on board.(l) A similar light was again seen,
more than once, during the dark and gloomy weather, with small misty rain
falling, and a light breeze from the westward, which we had all night.
"Thursday, 9th. No signs of our officers, nor any appearance of the
Indians. Fearing that some accident had happened, I sent two boats away,
with arms and provisions, to look for them all round the harbour, and the
large lagoon which communicates {215} with it. Both boats were thoroughly
cautioned about the Indians, for I had thoughts of their treachery. Just as
the boats got out of sight, three people were observed on the ridge of a
hill, about six miles distant; and, at the same time two other persons
appeared, much nearer the ship, on the east side of the harbour. Which was
our party, and who the others were, it was perplexing to say. Both
disappeared again for about two hours, when our stragglers came over a
hill, very near the ship. Upon their arrival on board, they were scarcely
able to move: they had been on their legs, almost without food, and without
shelter from the rain, since they left the ship. Their intention had been
to walk round the harbour, which appeared an employment for two hours only;
but at its head they found a lake, and beyond that lake a much larger one,
joined to the first by a passage, which they could not cross. When they
arrived at this passage, it was too late to return by the way they went,
and their best chance seemed to be going on. After dark, they tried to make
a fire, but the rain prevented them. It was too dark to see their way, and
the cold rain obliged them to keep moving about, though in one place. When
daylight came, they travelled on, and until they reached the ship at two
o'clock, were constantly walking.
"The other people seen by us must have been Indians; none were met by our
wanderers, but several places were passed where fires had been made by
them.
"April 10th. Directly our boats returned, we weighed and made sail; but the
wind soon failed, and the tide setting against us, obliged me to anchor.
"April 11th. Made sail towards the passage between Elizabeth Island and
Cape Negro, and anchored there to wait for the tide, which ran past us when
at anchor, at the rate of three knots an hour. About Cape Negro the
appearance of the land entirely changes. A low barren country gives way to
hills covered with wood, increasing in height, and becoming more rocky and
mountainous as you go southward.
"On the 13th, when working near the land, against a light southerly breeze,
we saw a small canoe paddling along shore, {216} and some people walking on
the beach. While the ship was standing off, I went to them, being the first
savages I had ever met. In the canoe were an old woman, her daughter, and a
child, and on shore were two Fuegian men with several dogs. Their figures
reminded me of drawings of the Esquimaux, being rather below the middle
size, wrapped in rough skins, with their hair hanging down on all sides,
like old thatch, and their skins of a reddish brown colour, smeared over
with oil, and very dirty. Their features were bad, but peculiar; and, if
physiognomy can be trusted, indicated cunning, indolence, passive
fortitude, deficient intellect, and want of energy. I observed that the
forehead was very small and ill-shaped; the nose was long, narrow between
the eyes, and wide at the point; and the upper lip, long and protruding.
They had small, retreating chins; bad teeth; high cheek-bones; small
Chinese eyes, at an oblique angle with the nose; coarse hair; wide
ill-formed mouths, and a laugh as if the upper lip were immoveable. The
head was very small, especially at the top and back; there were very few
bumps for a craniologist. They asked earnestly for 'tabac, tabac,' but
seemed very timid. We bartered some biscuit and old knives for a few of
their arrows, skins, spears, &c.
"Their canoes, twenty-two feet long, and about three wide, were curiously
made of the branches of trees, covered with pieces of beech-tree bark,
sewed together with intestines of seals. A fire was burning in the middle,
upon some earth, and all their property, consisting of a few skins and
bone-headed lances, was stowed at the ends.
"The young woman would not have been ill-looking, had she been well
scrubbed, and all the yellow clay with which she was bedaubed, washed away.
I think they use the clayey mixture for warmth rather than for show, as it
stops the pores of the skin, preventing evaporation and keeping out the
cold air. Their only clothing was a skin, thrown loosely about them; and
their hair was much like a horse's mane, that has never been combed.
"April 14th. Anchored in Port Famine."
{217}
"April 16th. Lieutenant Skyring went on board the Adelaide with Mr. Kirke,
five seamen, and one of the Beagle's whale-boats. Mr. Bynoe, the
assistant-surgeon, also went as a volunteer.
"April 17th. The Adelaide sailed to survey the Magdalen and Barbara
Channels; after which she was to rejoin the Beagle at Port Gallant. She
soon got into a strong southerly wind, and could make no progress, as the
current was against her; she therefore again stood into the bay, and
anchored.
"A sharply cold night made us remember we were far south, although the
weather by day had been mild. I have said little about this anchorage, as
it has already been described. The appearance of the surrounding country is
striking and picturesque. Mount Tarn, with its patches of snow, rising from
thick woods, and the high snow-covered mountains in the distance, with dark
blue sea at their base, are very remarkable objects.
"We sailed on the 19th with the Adelaide, which had been prevented from
going sooner by strong and unfavourable winds: and about noon we parted
from our consort, whose course was southerly, into the Magdalen Channel,
while we went towards Lyell Sound.
"I cannot help here remarking, that the scenery this day appeared to me
magnificent. Many ranges of mountains, besides Mount Sarmiento, were
distinctly visible, and the continual change occurring in the views of the
land, as clouds passed over the sun, with such a variety of tints of every
colour, from that of the dazzling snow to the deep darkness of the still
water, made me wish earnestly to be enabled to give an idea of it upon
paper; but a necessary look-out for the vessel, not having a commissioned
officer with me who had been in the Strait before, kept my attention too
much occupied to allow me to make more than a few hasty outlines. Under the
high land the Beagle had but little wind, and night closed upon us before
we could gain an anchorage in Lyell Sound, so we shortened sail after dark,
and kept near mid channel until the morning.
{218}
"The night was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen; nearly calm, the
sky clear of clouds, excepting a few large white masses, which at times
passed over the bright full moon: whose light striking upon the
snow-covered summits of the mountains by which we were surrounded,
contrasted strongly with their dark gloomy bases, and gave an effect to the
scene which I shall never forget.
"At daylight, on the 20th, we were close to Lyell Sound, and stood along
its west side, looking for an anchorage, until we found a very good
harbour, about a mile inside Mazaredo Point.
"I then went away, with two boats, to examine the Sound, leaving the master
to sound and plan the inner harbour.
"Kempe Harbour, within Lyell Sound, would hold six large ships in security;
but, like most of the harbours hereabouts, access is difficult, on account
of the squalls off the high land, which are so irregular, and often
violent.
"During the night of the 21st, it blew strong in squalls, and the
chain-cable kept us awake by rattling very much over rocks; yet when the
anchor was hove to the bows next morning, it appeared to have been well
bedded in stiff clay. To these sounds we afterwards became familiarised.
"Wednesday, 22d. Strong squalls from the south-eastward during the night,
and in the morning; when, being anxious to reach Cascade Bay, I weighed,
though the weather was thick, and the wind against us. The flaws were so
variable, that we were two hours knocking the helm and sails about before
we could clear the anchorage, and move half a mile in still water. I should
recommend warping in and out of these harbours, in preference to making
sail: as it is far easier, if a ship is provided with small hawsers and
kedges: and the hawsers can often be made fast to the rocks, or roots of
trees.
"The tide rises about four feet in Kempe Harbour; and there is a place
where a vessel might be grounded or careened with perfect safety.
"Mazaredo Peak (Bougainville's Sugar Loaf) is an excellent guide to Kempe
Harbour; the valley-like appearance of {219} the land also shows its
situation to a vessel in the Straits. What at first appears to be Lyell
Sound is Kempe Harbour, the Sound lies more to the left.
"After passing Mazaredo Point, the land is rugged and less woody; it is not
very high, and has a peculiar, rounded appearance, like the tops of loaves
of bread.
"There was slate in Kempe Harbour, which seemed to me fit for roofing
purposes.
"In Cascade Bay we found the abundance of limpets and muscles usual on
these shores, and of particularly good quality. The Indians live almost
entirely upon them and sea-eggs, though birds, and occasionally a seal, add
to their subsistence. Vegetation, both on shore and in the water, is most
abundant. At every step one sinks knee-deep in moss, grass, fern, or low
bushes. Trees seem to arrive but seldom at perfection; the climate is so
moist that they rot while growing, before they attain any size. Moss grows
every where; each bough is covered with it: and the water appears to be as
favourable to the growth of kelp as the land is to that of plants. The
large kind (_Fucus giganteus_) shoots up, from many fathoms depth, to the
surface, with strong stalks and large leaves.
"23d. A bad day; blowing strong, and at times raining. Mr. Murray, Mr.
Stokes, and I, went with three boats to continue our work of exploring and
sounding.
"Saturday, 25th. We weighed and made sail; but the breeze failed, and flaws
came against us. While laying out warps, and hanging by the stream-cable, a
squall took the ship and drove her against the rocks, but without doing her
any injury, for they were quite wall-sided. The main-yard and spanker-boom
were among the trees. We again laid out warps, and had made some progress,
when another strong squall obliged us to go back into our anchorage, to
remain until the hail, snow, wind, and rain should cease.
"26th. An unpromising and wet morning; but the heavy rain being over, we
weighed, and in a few hours reached the western side of San Pedro Sound.
"About a mile from the point we anchored in Murray Cove, {220} which
affords good shelter from westerly winds, and is very easy of access, being
a small roadstead rather than a harbour.
"27th. We set out early with the boats, but the weather was too bad to do
much; however, something was done, and at dusk we went ashore on a small
island in the Sound. It rained very hard all the afternoon and during part
of the night. We sheltered ourselves as well as we could with the boat's
sails and tarpaulins; but during the night the wind shifted, and blew so
hard, that it threw down our slight shelter, and made me very anxious about
the ship; for I was doubtful of the security of the anchorage where she
lay.
"28th. This morning was very cold, it rained hard and blew strong; but when
it cleared away for a short time, we set to work again, to explore what
appeared to be a channel.
"After a three hours' pull against wind, snow, and hail, my channel proved
to be only one of the numerous inlets which encroach upon the Fuegian
territory; and the boats returned to the Beagle, with the help of strong
squalls from the S.W. I was not a little glad to see the ship in the place
where I had left her. During the night another anchor had been let go; but
she had not moved from her position. This anchorage is so easy of access,
that I hope it will be of use to vessels passing through the Strait. There
is room for one large sized ship to lie conveniently, or for two or three
small craft.
"The weather has not yet been so cold as I expected it would be: snow lies
on the deck a short time, but the thermometer has not been lower than 31deg
(Fahrenheit).
"29th. A rainy, blowing morning: Mr. Stokes and I set out in the boats; but
it rained so much, that we could only make a fire to dry our clothes, and
remove the numbness, caused by sitting a long time in the wet.
"On the 3d of May, we anchored in Port Gallant: though perfectly secure,
this is a dismal harbour in winter, being so surrounded by high mountains,
that the sun is seldom visible. Until the 7th, in addition to our usual
daily duties, we were occupied in preparing for an excursion, in boats, to
the Jerome Channel. Salt provisions were entirely withheld from the crew
{221} for three days, and instead of them, preserved meat, shell-fish, and
a large pig, brought from Monte Video, were substituted. We found in this,
as in almost every Fuegian harbour, abundance of muscles, limpets, and wild
celery; some fish and some wild-fowl. Many of our party thought shags good
eating, but only one person could be found daring enough to try whether old
Sir John Narborough was quite warranted in saying that a fox was 'savoury
food,' and that one repented of his experiment during a week's serious
illness.
"My reason for entirely stopping the use of salt-meat, for a few days, was
the belief that, at least, two or three days' change of diet is necessary
to cause any real alteration in the system; and that it is better to give
fresh provisions for three days in succession, and salt-meat during the
remainder of three weeks, than to give fresh-meat at three separate
intervals in the same period.
"During the wet weather of these regions, we derived great benefit from
awnings, painted for the purpose, while refitting at Rio de Janeiro and
Maldonado: they kept the lower, and a great part of the upper deck quite
dry, even in heavy rain.
"May 7th. Mr. Stokes and I set out with a cutter and whale-boat, to explore
the Jerome Channel. We were well provided, with as much as the boats could
stow, of what we thought likely to be useful during a month's cruise. Of
water we took but little, trusting to the wetness of these regions for a
supply. Each man had his clothes covered with canvas, or duck, well
painted; and instead of a hat, every one had a 'south-wester' (like a
coal-heaver's cap).
"Our provisions, being sufficient for twenty-eight days, made the boats
rather deep; and I soon found the cutter pulled very heavily, and was
obliged to take her in tow. All our party slept in the cutter the first
night, the whale-boat being made fast astern. Towards midnight it blew
fresh, and as the boats were anchored near the wash of the beach, they
rolled a good deal; and soon afterwards, feeling the whale-boat hanging
heavily on her rope, I hauled her up alongside, and found she was almost
swamped; in a few minutes she {222} must have sunk with all her heavy
cargo, to us invaluable. The plug had worked out by her rolling:--I seldom
left her afloat at night after this warning. Having saved the boat, made me
think less of all our things being wetted, and of some of the instruments
being almost spoiled.
"At daylight, on the 8th, we pulled along shore, with the wind against us,
and reached Point York before the tide made strongly; but that place we
could not pass; and sooner than give up an inch of ground, let go our
grapnels, in the middle of a race of tide, that tumbled in over both
gunwales, and ran past us at the rate of five knots. At one P.M. it
slackened, and we pulled on into Bachelor River, very glad to get so good a
place to dry our clothes, and put the boats to rights. Three deserted
wigwams gave us shelter; and while some made fires, others went to collect
shell-fish, or shoot birds. Though the season was so far advanced, some
shrubs were in flower, particularly one, which is very like a jessamine,
and has a sweet smell. Cranberries and berberis-berries were plentiful: I
should have liked to pass some days at this place, it was so very pretty;
the whole shore was like a shrubbery. I cannot account for the exaggerated
accounts of the Fuegian coasts given by some voyagers: it is true that the
peaks of the mountains are covered with snow, and those sides exposed to
the prevailing west winds are barren, and rugged; but every sheltered spot
is covered with vegetation, and large trees seem to grow almost upon the
bare rock. I was strongly reminded of some of the Greek islands in winter,
when they also have a share of snow on their mountains.
"May 9th. The tide carried our boats rapidly up the Jerome Channel, which,
though narrow, is quite free from danger. The west shore is very high, and
steep, and well covered with wood; the eastern is lower, and less woody.
"Having passed this channel, we entered the mysterious Indian Sound, with
all that anxiety one feels about a place, of which nothing is known, and
much is imagined. I hoped to find a large river; and the strong tide
setting up the channel convinced me that there was a body of water inland,
but of what nature {223} remained to be discovered. At dusk we put into a
small creek, and secured the boats, hauling up the whale-boat on the sand.
When too late to remove, we found the place of our bivouac so wet and
swampy, that nearly two hours were occupied in trying to light a fire.
Supper and merry songs were succeeded by heavy rain, which continued
throughout that night and the next day without intermission.
"10th. Continual hard rain prevented our moving: the whale-boat's men were
thoroughly drenched in their tent during the night; but made a better one
in the morning. The cutter, having a tarpaulin cover, gave her crew a
better lodging; and although a small and loaded boat, only twenty-four feet
long, could not be expected to allow much room to a dozen sleepers, during
such weather, with the help of our blanket bags,(m) we did very well.
"11th. During this night, also, it rained very hard. Early the next
morning, however, it cleared a little, and we got under-weigh. When in the
fair-way our hopes were much excited; for beyond a high island, like a
sugar-loaf, appeared an opening without land. I tasted the water
repeatedly, fancying it less salt, and that we were approaching a river.
"Less salt it might have been, from the number of waterfalls dashing down
the mountains on each side of the channel, which is here about two miles
wide, with a current, or rather stream of tide, running at the rate of two
knots an hour.
"At noon, we reached the Sugar Loaf: it cost a struggle to get to the top
with the instruments; but the view repaid me. For three points of the
compass towards the north-east, I could see no land, except two islands;
and the farthest extreme to the eastward, appeared to me distant, at least,
thirty miles. No mountains or high land could be seen to the north or east;
the country seemed there to change its character, and become {224} lower
and less wooded. This was, indeed, an animating view: I stood considering
what might be the boundary of this water, till I recollected, that the
longer I thought about it, the longer I should be finding it out; so we
pushed on with the boats, of course taking the necessary bearings and
angles, until we reached the 'Point of Islets' in 'Otway Water.'
"On the 12th, our oars were going early.
"The two islands, 'Englefield' and 'Vivian,' were the only land upon the
horizon for six points of the compass. The southern coast trended away
nearly east from Cape Charles, preserving the high mountainous character of
the Fuegian shores, while that to the northward was low, though as yet well
wooded.
"I was nearly tempted to try whether Fanny Bay led towards the Gulf of
Xaultegua; but fortunately did not, as I should have regretted the time so
employed.
"Point Hamond is thickly-wooded with evergreens, similar to those of the
Strait; and with a species of pine, about thirty or forty feet in height.
"To the S.E. three remarkable promontories stand out in bold relief from
the Fuegian shore; but beyond them the land sinks into the tame flatness of
Patagonia.
"The water on the west shore is not deep; from ten to thirty fathoms at a
quarter of a mile off shore, but getting more shallow advancing northward.
There is anchorage for a vessel after passing Indian Channel, the whole way
along; and as the prevailing winds are off shore, it would generally be
safe. In Indian Channel I only know of two anchorages, Cutter Bay and
Bending Cove.
"Such constant rain fell during this evening, that it was not until after
much trouble that we at last made fires. Carrying dry fuel in the boats we
found indispensable, and I would recommend any person who passes a night on
shore in this wet climate, with a boat, to carry a sheet of copper, or a
piece of flat iron, in preference to any boat-stove, as a fire can be
lighted upon it much more easily, and it does not take much stowage: the
great difficulty about fires here is getting fuel to burn when the ground
is wet, or when snow lies on it.
{225}
"13th. Raining so steadily all day, that it was useless to proceed: I could
neither see my way, nor notice any thing but wind and rain.
"14th. So mild was the weather, that I bathed this morning, and did not
find the water colder than I have felt it in autumn on the English coast;
its temperature, at a foot below the surface, averaged 42deg; that of the
air was 39deg. From this place, Point Hamond, I saw seven points of the
compass clear of land, my eye being twenty feet above the level of the sea.
The water was quite salt, therefore we were certain of being in an
unexpected inland sea, or large lagoon. Four miles from Point Hamond lie
Englefield and Vivian Islands, rather low, but well wooded with evergreens.
They are the only islands of any note in the Otway Water. The farthest
point I could discern I called Cape Marvel, for much I wondered at the
hitherto unsuspected extent of this inlet.
"At noon we were off the north end of Englefield Island. Mr. Stokes and I
observed the sun's meridian altitude satisfactorily from the boats, so
smooth was the water. This quiet day was too fine, for it was hard work
pulling from nine till five, without any help from sails. Towards evening a
breeze sprung up in our favour, and with its assistance we ran along the
land about ten miles. Taking advantage of the moonlight, I did not look out
for a resting-place till past seven o'clock, when we had a great deal of
trouble in landing; the coast having quite changed its character; and
instead of deep water with a rocky shore, we found a flat shingly beach and
shoal water, with very large stones scattered between high and low water
marks, so numerously as to make it dangerous for a boat, especially at
night. Upon landing, we found the ground quite changed into a fine light
soil, with stunted bushes and trees; and so dry was the wood, that a fire
was easily kindled, but not a drop of water could be got any where to cook
our supper. A considerable rise and fall of tide was observed, much greater
than near Indian Channel.
"15th. No breakfast this morning, for want of water--a decided proof of the
change of climate and country. North of {226} us the sky was clear; but to
the southward, over the Strait, hung thick clouds. The trees were not
evergreen, and at this time their leaves were withered and falling.
"While pulling along shore, and passing a low projecting point, we saw the
smoke of three fires, and approaching nearer, observed four canoes lying on
the beach, near several wigwams. Their owners soon appeared, running along
the shore, hallooing and jumping. The first who came near us reminded me of
an old-fashioned sign of the 'Red Lion,' for he was painted red all over,
and looked more like a wild beast than a human being; another was covered
with a bluish mixture; a third was quite black. Several had the lower half
of the face blacked, and the oldest men and women were painted entirely
black. There were about eight men, six or eight boys, and perhaps a dozen
women and girls. Some had a skin over their shoulders, but others had no
covering at all, except paint; they seemed apprehensive, and hid several
skins and other things in the wood, as soon as they saw us approaching.
"When they found we were peaceably disposed, and had tobacco and knives,
they were eager to barter with us. How they have learned the use of tobacco
is curious, but they are fond of it to excess. Guanaco, as well as seal and
otter skins, are in their possession; therefore they probably barter with
the Patagonians. They have also the skins and horns of a deer, which, as I
understood them, inhabits their country.(n) They catch small animals with
snares, made of whalebone, just like hare-snares. This tribe was very rich
in Fuegian wealth, such as skins, arrows, lances, &c. They appeared to be
of a race similar, but superior, to the Fuegians, being stronger, stouter,
more lively, and more active. I persuaded one of their boys to have his
face washed, and found his natural complexion was scarcely darker than that
of a European. Their language sounds like that of the Fuegians, and the
huts and weapons are precisely similar to their's. We asked them for water,
and they pointed to a place about a mile further, {227} making signs to us
that we must dig in the earth for it. We went there, and near a
green-looking spot some good water was found. We then landed, and enjoyed
our breakfast at one o'clock, being not a little thirsty.
"The natives were still with us; they seemed inquisitive and cunning; and
shewed great surprise at a sextant and artificial horizon, by which they
sat down, attentively watching what was done. I put my watch to their ears;
they were much astonished, and each came in his turn to hear it tick. I
pointed to the watch and then to the sky; they shook their heads and
suddenly looked so grave, that from their manner in this instance, and from
what I could understand by their signs, I felt certain they had an idea of
a Superior Being, although they have nothing like an image, and did not
appear to us to have any form of worship. We could learn scarcely any words
of their language, because of their trick of repeating whatever we said.
"They saw how we lighted a fire, by means of a tinder-box, and took an
opportunity to tread it out of sight. Our loss was not known until leaving
the spot, when that material necessary was missed. It was evident they had
stolen it; and while I was meditating a reprisal, one of our men by chance
trod upon the missing box, which was artfully hid under the sand. After
this discovery, they seemed rather inclined for a skirmish, all having
clubs, while our men appeared to have no weapons. However, we parted
without a quarrel.
"The features of these people differed from those of the Fuegians whom I
had previously seen, in being better formed, and having a less artful
expression.
"We pulled hence along a low shore until evening, when distant land began
to show itself, stretching to the northward and eastward, and bounding this
supposed inland sea. At dusk we discovered an opening, which appeared to be
either a river or a channel, and I steered for its north bank, securing the
boats for the night in a place we named Donkin Cove, as a mark of respect
to the preserver of meat, to whom we had been so often thankful. A little
of this meat, mixed with wild fowl, and some wild celery, makes a wholesome
and {228} agreeable mess. On boat service, meat preserved in tin is
particularly useful, being already cooked, and therefore fit for dinner
without the aid of fire.
"We were surprised at the mildness of the weather. Indeed, the change of
climate was as pleasant as it was sudden and unexpected.
"16th. At daylight, we found ourselves in the entrance of what was thought
a river. Under this impression, I hoped to penetrate into the interior of
the country, and meet some new tribes of Patagonians. As soon as we could
get underweigh, we pulled and sailed along a winding channel, on one side
of which was a pleasant-looking, woody country, extending towards Tierra
del Fuego; and on the other, a low, barren district, like Eastern
Patagonia. The banks on both shores were from five to forty feet high,
sloping, and covered with grass.
"The current was in our favour, which with the saltness of the water,
inclined me to think it a channel, and not the mouth of a river. In this
opinion I was confirmed in a short time, by seeing surf breaking against
some land beyond an opening, which showed that we were approaching a large
body of water. Soon after, we reached the extreme west point of this small
channel; and, to our surprise, saw an expanse, at least thirty miles across
from east to west, and twenty from north to south. I thought it more at
first, but probably was deceived. West and south of it I observed high
snow-covered mountains; and the summit of one was remarkable, being like a
castle with a high tower. Northward, the land was low; excepting a few
ranges of down-like hills with large plains between them.
"It happened to be a very clear day, and all that could be seen at any time
was visible. In two places there seemed to me to be openings to the
westward; in the southernmost I could see no land at all; the other was
backed by distant mountains, but still had the appearance of an opening.
After this I went to the top of a hill near me, about three hundred feet
high, to gain a better view, yet so small an elevation made but little
difference, and I rather thought the opposite coast farther off than I had
at first supposed.
{229}
"Having sent the cutter back a short distance, to make a fire and land our
things, I crossed the channel to a fine level plain, and measured a base
line. In crossing, I found a most rapid tide, at least five or six knots at
neap tides, and to pull against it was out of the question. It caused a
considerable swell and race at the entrance, which is not a quarter of a
mile wide, though it averages twelve fathoms in depth. On the plain was
growing thick grass, like that in the vicinity of the river Plata. So rich
and good were the grass and trefoil, that I saved a few seeds, hoping some
day to see their produce in England. No tree was seen; the soil seemed dry,
rich, and light. Skunks, and a small kind of cavy, had burrowed every
where, which proves the climate to be of a different nature from that of
the Strait. The bones and traces of guanacoes were numerous, and some
horses' tracks were found; as also part of a dead guanaco, which appeared
to have been a prey to wild beasts. Water was not so plentiful as to the
southward; but quite sufficient for all useful purposes, many small brooks
being noticed, besides springs in the sides of the low hills. We shot a
swan(o) and some coots; the swans were so fat, or so tame, that they would
not rise from the water.
"17th. While on Whitestone Plain, a very heavy squall of wind and hail
passed over from the S.W., so cuttingly cold, that it showed me one reason
why these plains, swept by every wind from S.S.W. to N., are destitute of
trees.
"After dark, we returned to the cutter and partook of a large mess, made of
the swan we had shot, the coots, some limpets, and preserved meat. The
shortness of the days was becoming very inconvenient; from eight to four
were the only hours of daylight; but some of the nights were so fine, that
I got many sets of observations of the moon and stars.
* * * * *
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