Adventure sails from Rio de Janeiro to the River Plata--Gorriti--
Maldonado--Extraordinary Pampero--Beagle's losses--Ganges arrives--
Another pampero--Go up the river for water--Gale, and consequent
detention--Sail from Monte Video--Part from our consorts--Port Desire--
Tower Rock--Skeletons--Sea Bear Bay--Fire--Guanacoes--Port Desire Inlet--
Indian graves--Vessels separate--Captain Foster Chanticleer--Cape
Horn--Kater's Peak--Sail from St. Martin Cove--Tribute to Captain
Foster--Valparaiso--Santiago--Pinto--Heights--Chiloe--Aldunate.
The Adventure sailed from Rio de Janeiro on the 27th of December 1828,
leaving the Beagle to complete her repairs, and follow to the River Plata.
The day before our arrival at Maldonado, we were overtaken by the
Commander-in-chief, in H.M.S. Ganges, and entered the river in company. The
Ganges proceeded to Monte Video; but we went into Maldonado Bay, where I
had determined to wait for the Beagle.
Since our last visit to this place, the Island of Gorriti had been occupied
by Brazilian troops, who, before going away, set fire to the buildings, and
destroyed all the wood-work. As one object of my stay was to obtain
observations for the latitude and longitude, I erected our portable
observatory, and set up an azimuth altitude instrument.
On the 30th of January, after some intensely hot and sultry weather, we
experienced a very severe 'Pampero.' It was preceded by the barometer
falling to 29.50, and by a strong N.W. wind, which suddenly veered round to
S.W., when the pampero burst upon us. Our ship and boats fortunately
escaped any bad effects from the violence of the squall, which was so
strong as to lay the former, at anchor, upon her broadside; but on shore
our tent was blown down, and a boat that had been lately built, and fresh
painted, on the Island Gorriti, was completely destroyed. The part above
the thwarts, was torn away from the bottom of the boat, and carried, by the
violence of the wind, for two hundred yards along the beach. A boat, also,
{190} on the opposite shore, was blown to atoms. When the squall commenced,
one of our boats was coming off from the island; the officer being quite
unconscious of the approaching hurricane, and as she was overloaded with
people, I felt very uneasy until after the squall cleared away, when I
observed her beached on the opposite shore, many yards above high water
mark, to which position she had been driven by the force of the wind. The
violence of this pampero, during the twenty minutes it lasted, was
terrific. Old inhabitants of Maldonado declared, that they had experienced
nothing like it for the last twenty years. The spray was carried up by
whirlwinds, threatening complete destruction to every thing that opposed
them. In less than half an hour it had diminished to a strong S.W. gale,
which lasted during the night.
Just before the pampero commenced, L'Arethuse, French frigate, was observed
over the point of land under all sail; but not being seen after the squall
cleared off, we were much alarmed for her safety. At daylight, however, the
next morning, she was seen at anchor under Lobos Island, and near her was
our consort, the Beagle, of whose approach we had known nothing; but she
appeared to be lying quietly, with topmasts struck, under the lee of the
island. L'Arethuse slipped her cable in the afternoon, and ran out to sea.
On the 1st of February the wind moderated, and enabled the Beagle to join
us, when we found that she had been nearly capsized by the pampero; and had
suffered a considerable loss of sails and masts, besides injury to her
boats. Both topmasts, and jib-boom, with all the small spars, were carried
away; and her jib and topsails, although furled, were blown to pieces. The
vessel was on her beam ends for some time; but letting go both anchors
brought her head to wind and righted her, which prevented the necessity of
cutting away the lower masts. To add to their misfortune, two men were
blown overboard, from aloft, and drowned.
These severe losses caused considerable detention; but, fortunately, the
Ganges arrived, and rendered every assistance in repairing and replacing
the Beagle's damages.
{191}
On the night of the 2d of February we experienced another very severe
pampero, during which one of the Beagle's boats, hauled up on shore, was
blown to atoms. The barometer had previously fallen to 29.39.
On the 9th of February, we went to Monte Video, and on the 17th ran up the
north side of the river for water; but did not find it fresh until we were
within four miles of Cape 'Jesus Maria.' The wind was against our return,
so that we had to beat down the river, in doing which the Adelaide
grounded, but without receiving any injury. We anchored twice in our
passage out, and, at the second anchorage,[113] experienced a very heavy
westerly gale. In attempting to weigh at its commencement, our windlass was
so much injured, that we were obliged to ride the gale out, which we did by
veering to one hundred and ten fathoms of chain cable; and the Beagle, to
one hundred and fifty fathoms. Owing to a short heavy sea, in which the
Adventure frequently pitched her bowsprit and stern alternately under
water, her jolly-boat was washed away. This loss we could ill afford, as we
were already three boats short of our establishment, and wants; and as the
Adelaide had suffered severely, by losing her topmast and jib-boom, and
carrying away the head of her bowsprit, we were obliged to return, very
reluctantly, after the gale had subsided, to Monte Video; whence we finally
sailed on the 1st of March. On the 5th a S.S.E. gale separated us from our
consorts, our course, therefore, was directed for the first rendezvous, at
Port Desire.
When off Cape Blanco, the high land of Espinosa, in the interior, was
clearly distinguished at a distance of sixty miles, and might probably be
seen twenty miles further; so that its height must be, at least, four
thousand feet. This range is of irregular form, and has several peaked
summits, so very different from the general features of this coast, where
the heights are either flat-topped, or of an undulating outline, that I
suppose the rock to be of a character unlike that of the porphyry hills
common hereabouts.
{192}
On anchoring off Port Desire (14th), we found that the Beagle had arrived,
but had not met the Adelaide. The following afternoon I landed to examine
the Tower Rock, a very conspicuous object, on the south side of this
harbour, having the appearance of an enormous dead tree with its branches
lopped off. On our way to it we passed over an undulating plain, composed
of a sandy light soil, lying on a rocky basis, which in many parts
protruded. The soil was so poor, as only to produce a few tufts of grass,
and here and there a straggling bush of Berberis, or Piccoli, a dwarf woody
shrub, which is much esteemed as firewood by the sealers who frequent the
coast. Sir John Narborough, in describing this place, says, "The soil is
gravelly and sandy, with tufts of dry seared grass growing on it;" again:
"from the tops of the hills I could see a great way into the land, which is
all hills and downs, like Cornwall, toilsome travelling to those who were
not used to it."
The Tower Rock is evidently the remains of what was once probably a
considerable rocky mass, which has either been partially destroyed by some
convulsion, or, more probably, has been gradually worn away by the effect
of weather. Like all the debris around, it is of a fine-grained red
porphyritic claystone, much decomposed, but very hard, and difficult to
break.[114]
It stands erect at the summit of a mound or heap of broken stones, of all
sizes, some being very large blocks, from ten to twenty, or thirty tons
weight. It is about forty feet high, and twelve in diameter, having its
upper portion cleft, as it were, for about one-third down the middle, which
gives it a resemblance to the forked branch of an immense tree. It is
covered with moss and lichen, and, from its peculiar shape and prominent
situation, presents a very remarkable object.
Near it we observed traces of an Indian visit, among which was a horse's
skull. From the sterility of the soil and absence of fresh water, it is
probable that it is but little frequented by them. Port Desire is
celebrated as being the place where {193} Schouten, the Dutch navigator, is
said to have found skeletons measuring eleven or twelve feet in length!
Captain Fitz Roy informed me that he had not seen the Adelaide since we
separated. The Beagle had lost another boat in the gale; the eleventh we
had lost in the expedition since leaving England. As the Adelaide did not
make her appearance, I determined upon proceeding in the Adventure to Sea
Bear Bay, a few miles to the southward of Port Desire, to await her arrival
with the Beagle. While standing into the bay, we were amused by a chase of
a novel description: a guanaco was observed following a fox, which had much
difficulty in keeping his pursuer at a distance. As the guanaco is not
carnivorous, it may have been in playfulness: Reynard, however, by his
speed, and anxiety to escape, did not seem to think it an amusement. How
the chase terminated we did not see, for they disappeared in a valley.
While the ship was being moored, I landed to examine some wells near the
outer point, which have been said to afford some tuns of good water. I
found them to be deep holes in the solid rock, within the wash of a heavy
surf, and large enough to contain two hundred gallons of water; but in one
only was the water fresh, the sea having broken into the others, and, of
course, spoiled their contents. They receive the rain from the ravines, and
are much depended upon by sealing vessels which frequent this coast.
Sea Bear Bay was discovered in the voyage of the Nodales, in the year 1618;
they describe the place, but give it, as it deserves, a very poor
character. "The port," they say, "for a short stay, is not bad, since it
affords a good depth of water and a clear bottom; but otherwise it
possesses nothing to make it worth a ship visiting it, for there is neither
wood nor water, which are what ships most require." Nodales called the bay
'Sea Lion,' from the multitude of sea-lions (_Phoca jubata_) found on
Penguin Island. Why it has been changed to Sea Bear Bay I cannot determine.
In one of Mr. Tarn's excursions into the country, he observed a sail in the
offing, which he thought was a whale-boat; and {194} supposing it might be
in distress, if not one of the Adelaide's, kindled a fire to attract
attention. As the grass was very dry, it blazed furiously, and spread
rapidly around, yet without exciting fear that it could do us any injury;
but the next morning flames being observed on the crest of the hills,
behind the valley in which our tent had been erected, a boat was sent to
save it, and remove the instruments. Our men had just left the ship, when,
fanned by a land breeze which rose with the sun, the flames flew on with
rapidity, descended the valley, and before the boat reached the shore, had
consumed every vestige of the tent, and several articles of minor
consequence. The sextant and artificial horizon, lying on the ground,
escaped destruction, and the dipping-needle had fortunately been taken on
board. Before the fire burned itself out, the whole country for fifteen or
twenty miles around was completely over-run, so that all hope of procuring
guanacoes was destroyed. Previous to the fire, Mr. Tarn had shot one; but
being young, the carcase only weighed one hundred pounds, and was scarcely
worth the trouble of sending fifteen miles for; however, as an amusement to
the people, I sent a party to bring it on board, and it proved sufficient
to furnish the ship's company with a fresh meal.
We had seen several herds within four miles of the ship before the
conflagration; but the country was so very level and open, that these shy
animals were always warned of the approach of our people by their vigilant
scouts. So watchful and attentive is the look-out at his post, that he
never drops his head even to feed, and it is only with the greatest cunning
and care a man can get near the herd. The best way is, to lie concealed
near the water holes, and await their coming to drink. A small stream of
fresh water trickled over the beach into the bay, fringed by a patch of
grass which the fire had spared, at which having once observed a guanaco
drinking, we set a watch; but whether the animals were aware of it or not,
none came until the morning we sailed, when a small herd walked down to the
place quite unconcernedly, having no doubt first ascertained that there was
no danger. {195}
The little vessel Mr. Tarn saw was an American sealer, which anchored in
the bay next morning.
Besides the guanacoes, and fox, above-mentioned, we saw no quadrupeds,
although two or three sorts of cavia and the puma are common in this
neighbourhood. Of birds, nothing interesting was seen, except a plover
(_Totanus fuscus_?), oyster-catcher (_Haematopus niger, rostro rubro,
pedibus albis_), and one of the night bitterns, very much resembling the
young of the European bird;[115] but these three species had previously
been found at Port Famine. Several lizards were taken, and preserved.
This extremely sterile and barren country is very unfavourable for animals
of any kind. The soil is like that already described about Port Desire. The
rock is of the same character as at Port St. Elena and Port Desire: red
porphyritic claystone.[116]
On the 23d of March, a week having passed since we came to Port Desire, my
anxiety for the Adelaide's safety was much increased; especially as both
wind and weather had been favourable for her approach to this rendezvous. I
therefore despatched Lieut. Wickham overland to Port Desire to order the
Beagle to join us, and proceed with us to the other points of rendezvous,
Port San Julian and Cape Fairweather. Lieut. Wickham reached Port Desire
after a fatiguing walk, and early next morning the Beagle was beating into
Sea Bear Bay against a very strong wind which increased, and detained us. I
seized this opportunity of completing our consort's provisions to five
months. Captain Fitz Roy informed me that he had taken advantage of his
stay at Port Desire, to ascend the inlet to the head. It extended for
thirty miles, and the water was salt to its very extremity; but, from the
height of the old banks on each side, it appeared likely that at times
there may be considerable freshes. At the head of the river he lighted a
fire, {196} which spread, and soon joined that which Mr. Tarn had made.
Their union probably burned many square leagues of country.
On the 27th, we were still detained by a southerly gale. Captain Fitz Roy
accompanied me in search of Indian graves, which are described to be on the
summits of the hills. We found the remains of two, one of which had been
recently disturbed, but the other had been opened a considerable time.
No vestiges of bones were left. It is said that the corpse is extended in
an east and west direction, on the top of the highest pinnacle of the hill,
and then covered over with large stones until secure from beasts of prey.
Decomposition takes place, or the flesh is consumed by small animals or
insects, without the bones being removed, so that complete skeletons are
formed. According to Falkner, the bones are collected at a certain period,
and removed to some general cemetery, where the skeletons are set up, and
tricked out with all the finery the Indians can collect. The avidity they
evince for beads and other ornamental trifles is, perhaps, caused by this
desire of adorning the remains of their ancestors.
The next morning we left Sea Bear Bay and proceeded to San Julian, off
which we anchored for a few hours, while Captain Fitz Roy entered the port
to look for the Adelaide, or for some vestige of Lieutenant Graves's visit.
Finding nothing in the port, nor any tracks upon the shore, we went on
towards Cape Fairweather, and in our way met the Adelaide. After parting
from us during the gale in which all her sails were split, she went to Port
Desire, where she arrived first, and, not seeing us, proceeded to the two
other places of rendezvous, and had been lying at anchor eight days off
Cape Fairweather. Finding we were not there, she was returning to Port San
Julian, when we met her.
The weather being calm, so good an opportunity of supplying the Adelaide
with provisions was not lost, and she was completed to six months.
On the 1st of April we were off Cape Virgins, and parted from the Beagle
and Adelaide; Captain Fitz Roy having previously received orders from me to
proceed through the Strait of Magalhaens, and despatch the Adelaide to
survey the {197} Magdalen and Barbara Channels, while he was to survey part
of the south shore of the Strait and the Jerome Channel, and then proceed,
in company with the Adelaide, to Chiloe.
The Adventure then proceeded along the coast of Tierra del Fuego towards
Staten Land, for the purpose of communicating with the Chanticleer, or
obtaining some intelligence of her. The appointed rendezvous was New Year's
Harbour, and the day on which I had promised to be there was past.
It was so foggy that no part of the coast of Tierra del Fuego could be
seen; but as any detention might cause Captain Foster inconvenience, I did
not wait for fair weather, but went at once to the place appointed.
When crossing Strait le Maire, we were very nearly drifted through by the
tide, which, however, changed just in time to admit of our keeping on the
north side of Staten Land.
With a strong squally breeze we entered New Year's Harbour, and seeing
nothing of the Chanticleer, should have sailed without further
investigation, had we not observed a cleared white space on one of the
islands, which being near the place where I had requested Captain Foster to
leave a document, I concluded was intended to attract our attention. The
anchor was therefore dropped in twenty-five fathoms (the island bearing
from N. to N.W. 1/4 W.), nearly in the spot where Captain Cook anchored,
and a boat was sent to the white mark, near which a flag-staff was
observed, at whose foot was a tin canister, containing a letter from
Captain Foster, which informed me of his having been obliged, in
consequence of a longer detention here than he had anticipated, to alter
his arrangements, and requesting me to meet him at St. Martin's Cove, near
Cape Horn, about this day. We therefore lost no time in getting under
weigh, but in doing so, broke an anchor. We passed round Cape St. John, and
with a fair wind made rapid progress to the westward. At noon, the next
day, being seventy-five miles from Cape Horn, bearing W. by S., the high
mountains on the S.E. end of Tierra del Fuego came in sight, among which
the 'Sugar Loaf'(g) was a conspicuous object. {198} By an angular
measurement of its altitude, and the distance given by the chart, its
height must be nearly five thousand feet, and the average height of its
neighbouring mountains full three thousand.
A south-west gale now set in, and delayed our reaching Cape Horn until the
16th, when we anchored off the entrance of St. Martin's Cove and found the
Chanticleer moored within. A boat soon after came with the welcome
information of all being well on board her. We were not able to warp into
the Cove until next day, and in doing so found much difficulty, owing to
the violence of the squalls, which repeatedly obliged us to slacken the
hawsers quickly, else we should have carried them away.
The Adventure was moored in seventeen fathoms, about a cable's length
within the low green point on the south side: and the Chanticleer lay in
ten fathoms near the head of the Cove. The summit of Cape Horn being in a
line with the south point of entrance, we were quite land-locked, and
perfectly sheltered from all winds, excepting the williwaws, or furious
gusts from off the high land, which sometimes suddenly struck the ship, and
threw her on her broadside; but being as momentary in duration as they were
sudden in approach, we found them more disagreeable than dangerous.
During our stay here I made a partial survey of the Bay of St. Francis,
which has since been completed by Captain Fitz Roy. St. Joachim's Cove, to
the southward of St. Martin's Cove, is more exposed than the latter, but is
of easier depth. These coves are separated from each other by a steep and
precipitous mass of hills of greenstone, which in many parts appear to be
stratified, the dip being to the westward, at an angle of 40deg. I landed
at the point, and ascended the hill, which I found more difficult to do
than I supposed, the whole surface being covered with stunted beech bushes,
so thickly matted or interwoven together, that I was obliged to walk or
crawl over their tops. Among them were occasionally seen the berberis
ilicifolia and veronica, the latter of very small size. Another day,
Lieutenant Kendall, of the Chanticleer, accompanied me {199} to Weddel's
Port Maxwell, which is evidently St. Bernard's Cove of D'Arquistade.(h)
Port Maxwell is contained between Jerdan Island, Saddle Island, and a third
island, forming a triangle. It has four entrances, the principal one being
to the north of Jerdan Island, and affords tolerable anchorage in the
centre, in nineteen and twenty fathoms, sand;[117] nearer the shores of the
island the depth is more moderate, but the bottom is very rocky.
The summit of Saddle Island, which I ascended for bearings, is composed of
large blocks of greenstone rock, on one of which the compass (Kater's
Azimuth, without a stand) was placed; but the needle was found to be so
much influenced by the ferruginous nature of the rock, composed of quartz
and feldspar, thickly studded with large crystals of hornblende, that the
poles of the needle became exactly reversed. An experiment was then made,
by taking bearings of a very distant object, at several stations around,
about fifty yards from the magnetic rock, when the extreme difference of
the results amounted to 127deg. The block upon which the compass stood, in
the first instance, is now conspicuously placed in the museum of the
Geological Society.[118]
Saddle Island, like the others near it, is clothed with low stunted
brushwood of beech, berberis, and arbutus, and the ground is covered with a
species of chamitis, and other mountain plants. While Mr. Kendall and I
were absent from the boat, the crew caught several kelp fish, which are
very delicate and wholesome food. On the following day, while going with
Mr. Kendall to Wollaston Island, we passed a great many whales, leaping and
tumbling in the water. A blow from one {200} of them would have destroyed
our boat, and I was glad to cross the Sound without getting within their
reach. We returned by the west side of Jerdan Island, where there are
bights which might afford shelter to a small vessel.
The Sound that separates Wollaston Island from the Bay of St. Francis, I
named after Sir John Franklin, and the harbour to the east of the point on
which we landed, after Lieutenant Kendall, who was one of Sir John
Franklin's companions in his last journey to the north-west coast of
America.
On the west point of Kendall Harbour, I observed a magnetic property in the
rock, which is of the same character as that on Saddle Island. Weddel
noticed the same at St. Martin's Cove; but I placed the compass in various
parts of that cove, without observing any difference from the correct
bearing. This was, perhaps, owing to the rock being much covered with soil;
for, being of the same character with that of the places above-mentioned,
it should cause a similar effect.
The next day S.W. gales and thick weather set in, and confined us almost to
the ship. Taking advantage of a short interval of more moderate weather, I
ascended the highest peak on the south side of the cove, immediately over
the anchorage, taking two barometers, one of the Englefield construction,
and the other a syphon barometer, on M. Gay Lussac's plan, made by Bunten,
of Paris. Mr. Harrison accompanied me, taking charge of one barometer,
whilst I carried the other. My coxswain carried a theodolite. On landing,
the barometers were set up at the edge of the water and read off, and at
the same moment the barometer on board was read off. We then ascended, but
the rise was so precipitously steep as to offer very great impediments; and
had it not been for a water-course, in whose bed we climbed for the first
part, the ascent, with delicate instruments, would have been almost
impracticable. We had ascended but little way, when the unfortunate
theodolite escaped from my coxswain, rolled down the ravine, and was much
damaged. It was an excellent magnetic transit, and for that purpose was
irremediably injured; but, as a theodolite, it was yet useful. The first
third of the ascent, from the {201} comparative facility offered by the
water-course, was only impeded by loose stones, which frequently yielded to
the foot, and rolled down the gully, to the great danger of those who
followed. The banks of the ravine were saturated with water, and covered
either with spongy moss, or matted with plants,[119] which afforded no
assistance; had it not therefore been for straggling shrubs of arbutus, or
veronica, and tufts of rushes, growing on the steeper parts, we should have
had many a fall; and however unimportant we might think bruises and
scratches, a broken barometer would have been a serious accident, and much
care was required to avoid it. We had to leave the bed of the torrent, when
it became full of wood, and then our difficulty increased much; for in many
places we had to scramble over the thickly-matted and interwoven branches
of the stunted bushes of beech which frequently yielded to our weight, and
entangled our legs so much, that it was no easy matter to extricate
ourselves.
At the height of one thousand feet, vegetation became much more stunted; we
found the plants and shrubs of very diminutive size, consisting principally
of the deciduous-leaved beech, one plant of which, though not more than two
inches high, occupied a space of four or five feet in diameter, its
spreading branches insinuating themselves among wild cranberry, chamitis,
donacia, arbutus, and escalonia, so closely matted together, as to form
quite an elastic carpet. For the last two hundred feet, we walked over the
bare rock, on which no other vegetation was observed than lichens. The
summit of the peak is formed by a loose pile of green-stone rock, in which
the hornblende appears in very varied forms, sometimes in large crystals,
and again so small and disseminated, as to be scarcely visible; on the
summit it is seen, in very long, narrow (? filiform) crystals, and the
feldspar predominating, gives it a white appearance.[120]
The only living creatures we saw were a solitary hawk and {202} one insect,
a species of Oniscus. Nothing, in fact, could be more desolate, and we had
only the satisfaction of a good observation for the height, and an
excellent bird's-eye view of the surrounding islands and channel, to repay
us for the labour of the ascent. On reaching the top, the barometers were
suspended under the lee of the rock, twelve feet below its summit, and I
then proceeded to set up the theodolite, which I found more damaged than I
had anticipated; but not so much as to deprive me of a very extensive round
of angles, in which were contained bearings of the Ildefonso Islands. We
were thus occupied about an hour and half, which afforded me an opportunity
of obtaining two good readings of the barometer.
The view to the N.W. was very extensive, and bounded by long ranges of
snow-clad mountains of great height; the atmosphere was remarkably clear,
and every object unusually distinct. Bearings of the islands of Diego
Ramirez would have been taken, but for the extreme force of the wind, which
more than once blew me from the theodolite, and once actually threw me on
the ground. The temperature was not below 38deg; but, owing to the wind,
the cold was intense, and the rapid evaporation produced the most painful
sensations, particularly in our feet and legs, which were thoroughly wet
when we reached the top.
Our descent was not effected in less than an hour and twenty minutes, owing
to the difficulty of passing through the beech thickets; but we reached the
base without injury to the barometers, which was being more fortunate than
I expected. They were again set up on the beach, and read; after which we
returned on board, amply gratified and rewarded for our fatigue.
The height of the peak, which, from its vicinity to the station selected by
Captain Foster for the pendulum experiments, could not receive a more
appropriate name than Kater's Peak, was found to be 1,742 feet above the
high-water mark.[121]
{203}
The next day, after a beautifully clear and mild morning, with a fresh
northerly breeze, the weather became cloudy, and the wind veered to the
S.W. blowing excessively hard, with hail and rain. The gusts, or williwaws,
rushed through the valley of the cove with inconceivable violence, heaving
the ship over on her broadside every minute, so that we were obliged to
have every thing lashed as if at sea. Fortunately, we had completed wood
and water, and now only waited for observations, to rate the chronometers,
for our run to Valparaiso, whither it was my intention to proceed. Days,
however, passed without a glimpse of the stars, and the sun only appeared
for a few minutes above the hills. Captain Foster had completed his
observations, and embarked all his instruments, excepting the transit,
which remained for taking the passages of stars; but the bad weather
continued, with little intermission. On the 3d, the gale was most violent,
and the williwaws became short hurricanes, in some of which the ship
drifted and fouled her anchors. On the 10th, we had a dry and fair day,
which permitted us to sight the anchors and moor again.
The fine weather was of only a few hours duration, when the gale again
sprung up, and lasted, with little intermission, until the day of our
departure (the 24th). From the 4th to the 22d the sky was so perpetually
clouded, that the only transits obtained in that interval were, one of
Antares, one of Regulus, and one of the limb of the moon, though Captain
Foster even slept close to the telescope, in the greatest anxiety to obtain
observations. On the night of the 22d four stars were {204} observed, by
which the error of the clock was satisfactorily ascertained.
Captain Foster's pluviameter, a cubic foot in size, placed on a stand two
feet above the ground, at an elevation of forty-five feet above the sea,
contained eight inches and a quarter of rain, after standing thirty days;
therefore, with the quantity evaporated, at least twelve inches must have
fallen. The day after the above was registered, the vessel only contained
seven inches and a quarter; so that in twenty-four hours one inch had
evaporated, by which an idea may be formed of the sort of weather we
experienced, and of the humidity of the climate.
With respect to the geological features, I can only add, that all the
islands on which I landed, and, I believe, all the others, are composed of
green-stone of various characters. The lower portion, or base, being less
decomposed, is a fine-grained green-coloured rock, in which the component
parts are so blended as not to be distinguished from each other. It appears
sometimes in strata, dipping at various angles, from 20deg to 45deg from
the vertical; and is very similar to the rock which alternates with granite
in the Straits of Magalhaens, at the entrance of the Barbara; and also to
that about Pond Harbour, and Bell Bay. At a greater elevation the feldspar
predominates, the hornblende is observed in distinct crystals,[122] and the
rock contains a considerable quantity of iron, which is observed in the
reddish tinge of its surface. I have before noticed the magnetic property
of this rock, which was more or less according to the quantity of
hornblende: the beach-stones are different sorts of green-stone.
The lower parts of the hills, around St. Martin's Cove, are thickly wooded
with the smooth-leaved, evergreen beech, which I have before described. Its
leaves were as fresh and vivid, when we sailed, as if it were the height of
summer; but those of the deciduous-leaved beech had assumed their autumnal
tint, and were falling fast. Neither species attained a greater size, in
diameter, than six or eight inches. The Winter's-bark was {205} found in
sheltered places, but not larger in dimensions than the beech.[123] Where
no trees are produced, the ground is covered with tufts of chamitis and
donacia, which, being of a bright-green colour, give the sides of the hills
a lively and verdant appearance. Had the state of the weather permitted our
boats to leave the neighbourhood of the cove, or had the woods afforded any
addition to collections for natural history, our detention would have been
more agreeable; but, with the exception of a few corvorants, divers, and
'steamers,' with now and then a solitary hawk, or a Patagonian 'warbler,'
we saw no traces of animal life. No Indians came near us, having been
frightened away by the Chanticleer; for when Captain Foster was absent at
night, after attempting to land at Cape Horn, several rockets were fired
off as signals, and a few Indians who were then in the cove were so much
alarmed, that they went away next day, and never afterwards showed
themselves, although I dare say we were very narrowly watched by them.
Having supplied the Chanticleer with the provisions she required, we
prepared to leave St. Martin's Cove. On the 24th the Chanticleer sailed,
and in two hours after we also left this dismal cove, in which we
experienced a succession of very bad weather, an almost constant S.W. wind,
and for the last month a scarcely ceasing fall of either rain, hail, or
snow. The Chanticleer bore away round Cape Horn, and was soon out of sight.
This was my last meeting with Captain Foster, who, the night before we
sailed, communicated to me a presentiment, which he could not shake off,
that he should not survive the voyage. I cannot now resist indulging in the
melancholy satisfaction of saying a few words to the memory of my late
excellent {206} friend, and lamenting, with many others, the severe loss
which science suffered in his death. He was a fellow of the Royal, and
Astronomical Societies, and to the former had contributed, to use the words
of His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, as President of the Royal
Society, a most valuable and extensive series of observations upon the
diurnal variation, diurnal intensity, and dip of the magnetic needle; and
upon other subjects connected with the terrestrial magnetism and
astronomical refraction, which formed an entire fourth part of the
Philosophical Transactions for the year 1826. For these papers he received
the Copley medal; and the Lords of the Admiralty acknowledged their sense
of the honour which was thus conferred upon the profession to which he
belonged, by immediately raising him to the rank of Commander, and by
appointing him to the command of the Chanticleer, upon a voyage of
discovery and observation in the South Seas. The address of the President
of the Royal Astronomical Society, at the anniversary meeting,[124] also
bears ample testimony to his active and useful services in the expedition,
under Captain Parry, towards the North Pole; as well as to his ardent zeal,
very great attention, and accuracy, in every thing which he undertook for
the promotion of science; and concludes the notice of his death in the
following words: "In the premature death of this young and accomplished
officer, the Society has to deplore the loss of a zealous and active votary
to science; and his memory will be long held dear by those who were more
intimately acquainted with him in the relations of private life." Captain
Foster was unfortunately drowned, near the close of his voyage, while
descending the River Chagres in a canoe.
No sooner had we cleared the land, than we found a strong westerly wind,
and a heavy sea; so that if we had entertained any expectation of making a
quiet passage to the westward, we should have been disappointed.
The land of Hermite Island, and its vicinity, has a most remarkable
appearance when seen from the south. Its outline is a series of peaks,
following each other in regular succession, {207} and resembling the worn
teeth of an old saw. Mount Hyde is made sufficiently distinct by its
rounded apex, and by being higher than any land near it. Kater's Peak also
is remarkable in this view, from its conical form and very pointed summit,
and from being situated at the eastern end of the island. The 'Horn' itself
needs no description; it cannot easily be mistaken.[125]
Westerly winds carried us as far as 60deg south latitude before we could
make any westing, and then we had a slant from the eastward, followed by
variable winds. Our run to Valparaiso was much like all other voyages in
this climate; we had the usual quantity of foul and fair winds, with a
share of tempestuous weather, and arrived at Valparaiso Bay on the 22d of
June. While remaining here our chronometers were cleaned, and some of them
repaired; and the ship was refitted and provisioned, with a full supply for
the Beagle and Adelaide as well as herself.
At the latter end of July, Lieutenant Wickham accompanied me to Santiago,
the capital of Chile, ninety miles from the port, for the purpose of
waiting upon General Pinto, the Director; and communicating to him the
purpose of our voyage, to prevent exciting suspicion, or receiving any
interruption on the part of the authorities of places we might visit,
particularly Chiloe, where our stay might be viewed with distrust or
apprehension; for rumour had already said that the English were about to
take that island. Ridiculous as such a report was, I deemed it sufficiently
important to induce me to explain to the Chilian Government our views and
orders, which could be done better by personal explanation than by a
correspondence.
We commenced our journey early on the 11th of July, travelling in a covered
chaise, drawn by three horses, one in {208} the shafts, and the others
outside, attached to the carriage by a single trace of hide; and preceded
by a drove of horses, from which, at the end of every stage of twelve or
fifteen miles, we selected a relay. The day was so very stormy, that we saw
but little of the country. Immediately after leaving the Almendral, or
suburbs of Valparaiso, we ascended twelve hundred feet, and then descended
about four hundred feet to an extensive plain, reaching to the Cuesta de
Zapato, the summit of which, at least the highest part of the road over it,
we found by barometrical measurement to be 1,977 feet above the sea. In the
interval we passed through the village of Casa Blanca, lying eight hundred
and three feet above the sea. After passing the Cuesta de Zapato, between
it and the Cuesta de Prado, is another extensive valley, through which runs
the River Poangui. At Curacavi, where we crossed the river, the height
above the sea is six hundred and thirty-three feet;[126] and the road
proceeds by a gentle ascent to the foot of the Cuesta de Prado, near which
is the village of Bustamente, eight hundred and eight feet above the sea.
This 'cuesta' is passed by a very steep road, and is ascended by
twenty-seven traverses, which carry one to a height of 2,100 feet above the
plain, or 2,950 feet above the sea. When we reached the summit of this
mountain the weather was so cloudy, that the Andes were almost concealed
from view. Beneath us was the extensive plain of Maypo, with the city of
Santiago in the distance, a view of considerable extent, and possessing
very great interest; but from the state of the weather, its beauty would
not have been seen to advantage, had not portions of the towering Andes,
raised by optical deception to apparently twice their height, appeared at
intervals among the clouds. On {209} a fine day, when the range of
mountains is uncovered, the view is grand; but not so imposing as when
their lower portions are concealed, and their summits partially exposed.
This part of the Andes rises about 11,000 feet above the plain, and is
covered half way down the sides with snow, the lower edge of which is
regularly defined, and presents a change of colour so abrupt and horizontal
as to appear unnatural, and therefore diminish the grandeur of the scene
very much. But under whatever circumstances this view is seen from the
Cuesta de Prado, it is magnificent, and produces an effect beyond
description. The road descends down the eastern side of this Cuesta, to a
plain about 1,100 feet below the summit. So much rain had fallen during the
two preceding days, and last night, that our driver expressed some doubt
whether we should be able to cross the Podaguel, a river which is
frequently impassable from the strength of its current. The idea of
spending a night at the miserable hovel we were leaving was enough to
induce us to run a considerable risk, and we set off to make the attempt.
The water was very deep, and the current sufficiently strong to render it a
performance of some danger; but, this difficulty being passed, we soon
reached the city of Santiago, and in the house of Mr. Caldcleugh, enjoyed
the hospitality and society of a warm-hearted friend.
I waited on the Director (Pinto), who received me with the greatest
politeness. He entered into the particulars of our past voyage with much
interest, assuring me that every facility should be afforded, and every
assistance rendered, whenever it might be required; and in this assurance
we never found ourselves deceived, for on all occasions the conduct of the
executive authorities towards us was marked in attention, and even
kindness. I make this observation with the more pleasure, as it was very
unusual in our communications with the authorities of those governments we
had previously visited, to find the objects of our voyage considered in the
least interesting.
Although the weather, during our visit to Santiago, was not there
considered fine, we left the city and its neighbourhood with a strong
impression of the salubrity of the climate, and the {210} mildness of its
temperature, which even in the middle of winter, and at the height of
nearly 2,000 feet above the sea, ranged no lower than 45deg Fahrenheit, and
during the day the maximum height of the thermometer never exceeded
62deg.[127](k)
We returned to Valparaiso on the 26th of July, and made preparations to
sail; but were detained by a strong northerly gale for many days, in which
we were enabled to render assistance to a large Indian trader that would
otherwise have been wrecked. On the 10th of August, we sailed for Chiloe;
and on our way were greatly delayed by southerly winds, which carried us in
sight of the island of Juan Fernandez. We reached our destination on the
26th, and found the Beagle, to our great delight, arrived, and all well.
Captain Fitz Roy came on board before we anchored, and gave me an outline
of his proceedings, and those of the Adelaide, which had not {211}
returned, but was daily expected, having been despatched to survey some
interior channels on her way to Chiloe. Our anchorage was off Point Arenas,
which is not only the best in the bay, but appeared to be well adapted to
our wants. The Beagle had arrived early in July, and had sent to Valparaiso
for stores with which to refit, and make preparations for another cruize to
the south.
The harbour master, Mr. Williams, an Englishman, visited us soon after our
anchoring, and by him I forwarded to the Yntendente (or governor), Don Jose
Santiago Aldunate, the letters brought for him from Chile.
In the afternoon I received his acknowledgments, and offers of all the
assistance in his power to render. As it was probable that our stay would
occupy some weeks, I established myself at a house in the town, obtained by
his kindness; and there fixed my portable observatory, and set up an
azimuth altitude instrument.
* * * * *
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