Produced by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, Keith Edkins and
the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
generously made available by the Posner Memorial Collection
(http://posner.library.cmu.edu/Posner/))
Transcriber's note: A few typographical errors have been corrected: they
are listed at the end of the text.
* * * * *
In this version [=e] signifies "e macron"; [)e] "e breve"; and so forth.
Diacritics in Spanish, scientific Latin and French are not shown, except in
one necessary case on Page ix. where ['o] is "o with acute". The "Errata et
Corrigenda" (after the list of Plates) have been actioned.
VOYAGES
OF THE
ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE.
------
VOLUME I.
[Illustration: P. P. King T. Landseer
PATAGONIAN.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
* * * * *
NARRATIVE
OF THE
SURVEYING VOYAGES
OF HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS
ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,
BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836,
DESCRIBING THEIR
EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES
OF
SOUTH AMERICA,
AND
THE BEAGLE'S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE.
------
IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
------
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
------
1839.
* * * * *
LONDON:
Printed by. J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street,
Lincoln's-Inn Fields.
* * * * *
VOLUME I.
------
PROCEEDINGS
OF
THE FIRST EXPEDITION,
1826--1830,
UNDER THE COMMAND OF
CAPTAIN P. PARKER KING,
R.N., F.R.S.
* * * * *
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE EARL OF MINTO, G.C.B.,
FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER
OF THE
ADMIRALTY.
------
MY LORD:
I have the honour of dedicating to your lordship, as Head of the Naval
Service, this narrative of the Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and
Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1836.
Originated by the Board of Admiralty, over which Viscount Melville
presided, these voyages have been carried on, since 1830, under his
lordship's successors in office.
Captain King has authorized me to lay the results of the Expedition which
he commanded, from 1826 to 1830, before your lordship, united to those of
the Beagle's subsequent voyages.
I have the honour to be,
MY LORD,
Your lordship's obedient servant,
ROBERT FITZ-ROY.
* * * * *
{ix}
PREFACE.
In this Work, the result of nine years' voyaging, partly on coasts little
known, an attempt has been made to combine giving general information with
the paramount object--that of fulfilling a duty to the Admiralty, for the
benefit of Seamen.
Details, purely technical, have been avoided in the narrative more than I
could have wished; but some are added in the Appendix to each volume: and
in a nautical memoir, drawn up for the Admiralty, those which are here
omitted will be found.
There are a few words used frequently in the following pages, which may not
at first sight be familiar to every reader, therefore I need hardly
apologize for saying that, although the great Portuguese navigator's name
was Magalhaens--it is generally pronounced as if written Magellan:--that
the natives of Tierra del Fuego are commonly called Fuegians;--and that
Chil['o]e is thus accented for reasons given in page 384 of the second
volume.
In the absence of Captain King, who has entrusted to me the care of
publishing his share of this work, I may have overlooked errors which he
would have detected. Being hurried, and unwell, while attending to the
printing of his volume, I was not able to do it justice.
{x}
It may be a subject of regret, that no paper on the Botany of Tierra del
Fuego is appended to the first volume. Captain King took great pains in
forming and preserving a botanical collection, aided by a person embarked
solely for that purpose. He placed this collection in the British Museum,
and was led to expect that a first-rate botanist would have examined and
described it; but he has been disappointed.
In conclusion, I beg to remind the reader, that the work is unavoidably of
a rambling and very mixed character; that some parts may be wholly
uninteresting to most readers, though, perhaps, not devoid of interest to
all; and that its publication arises solely from a sense of duty.
ROBERT FITZ-ROY.
London, March 1839.
* * * * *
{xi}
INTRODUCTION
In 1825, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty directed two ships to be
prepared for a Survey of the Southern Coasts of South America; and in May,
of the following year, the ADVENTURE and the BEAGLE were lying in Plymouth
Sound, ready to carry the orders of their Lordships into execution.
These vessels were well provided with every necessary, and every comfort,
which the liberality and kindness of the Admiralty, Navy Board, and
officers of the Dock-yards, could cause to be furnished.
On board the Adventure, a roomy ship, of 330 tons burthen, without guns,[1]
lightly though strongly rigged, and very strongly built, were--
PHILLIP PARKER KING, Commander and Surveyor, Senior
Officer of the Expedition.
J. COOKE Lieutenant.
B. AINSWORTH Master.
J. TARN Surgeon.
{xii}
G. ROWLETT Purser.
R. H. SHOLL Mate.
J. C. WICKHAM Mate.
J. F. BRAND Mate.
T. GRAVES Mate and Assistant Surveyor.
G. HARRISON Mate.
E. WILLIAMS Second Master.
J. PARK Assistant Surgeon.
W. W. WILSON Midshipman.
A. MILLAR Master's Assistant.
A. MELLERSH Volunteer 1st Class.
J. RUSSELL Volunteer 2d Class.
G. HODGSKIN Clerk.
J. ANDERSON Botanical Collector.
Gunner--Boatswain--and Carpenter.
Serjeant and fourteen Marines; and about forty Seamen and
Boys.
In the Beagle, a well-built little vessel, of 235 tons, rigged as a barque,
and carrying six guns, were--
PRINGLE STOKES Commander and Surveyor.
E. HAWES Lieutenant.
W. G. SKYRING Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor.
S. S. FLINN Master.
E. BOWEN Surgeon.
J. ATRILL Purser.
J. KIRKE Mate.
B. BYNOE Assistant Surgeon.
J. L. STOKES Midshipman.
R. F. LUNIE Volunteer 1st Class.
W. JONES Volunteer 2d Class.
J. MACDOUALL Clerk.
Carpenter.
Serjeant and nine Marines; and about forty Seamen and Boys.
{xiii}
In the course of the voyage, several changes occurred among the officers,
which it may be well to mention here.
In September, 1826, Lieutenant Hawes invalided: and was succeeded by Mr. R.
H. Sholl, the senior mate in the Expedition.
In February, 1827, Mr. Ainsworth was unfortunately drowned; and, in his
place, Mr. Williams acted, until superseded by Mr. S. S. Flinn, of the
Beagle.
Lieutenant Cooke invalided in June, 1827; and was succeeded by Mr. J. C.
Wickham.
In the same month Mr. Graves received information of his promotion to the
rank of Lieutenant.
Between May and December, 1827, Mr. Bowen and Mr. Atrill invalided; besides
Messrs. Lunie, Jones, and Macdouall: Mr. W. Mogg joined the Beagle, as
acting Purser; and Mr. D. Braily, as volunteer of the second class.
Mr. Bynoe acted as Surgeon of the Beagle, after Mr. Bowen left, until
December, 1828.
In August, 1828, Captain Stokes's lamented vacancy was temporarily filled
by Lieutenant Skyring; whose place was taken by Mr. Brand.
Mr. Flinn was then removed to the Adventure; and Mr. A. Millar put into his
place.
{xiv}
In December, 1828, the Commander-in-chief of the Station (Sir Robert Waller
Otway) superseded the temporary arrangements of Captain King, and appointed
a commander, lieutenant, master, and surgeon to the Beagle. Mr. Brand then
invalided, and the lists of officers stood thus--
Adventure (1828-30).
PHILLIP PARKER KING, Commander and Surveyor, Senior
Officer of the Expedition.
T. GRAVES Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor.
J. C. WICKHAM Lieutenant.
S. S. FLINN Master.
J. TARN Surgeon.
G. ROWLETT Purser.
G. HARRISON Mate.
W. W. WILSON Mate.
E. WILLIAMS Second Master.
J. PARK Assistant Surgeon.
A. MELLERSH Midshipman.
A. MILLAR Master's Assistant.
J. RUSSELL Volunteer 2d Class.
G. HODGSKIN Clerk.
J. ANDERSON Botanical Collector.
Gunner--Boatswain--and Carpenter.
Serjeant and fourteen Marines: and about fifty[2] Seamen and
Boys.
Beagle (1828-30).
ROBERT FITZ-ROY Commander and Surveyor.
W. G. SKYRING Lieut. and Assist. Surveyor.
J. KEMPE Lieutenant.
M. MURRAY Master.
{xv}
J. WILSON Surgeon.
W. MOGG (Acting) Purser.
J. KIRKE Mate.
B. BYNOE Assistant Surgeon.
J. L. STOKES Midshipman.
J. MAY Carpenter.
D. BRAILY Volunteer 2d Class.
J. MEGGET Clerk.
Serjeant and nine Marines: and about forty Seamen and Boys.
In June, 1829, Lieutenant Mitchell joined the Adventure; and in February,
1830, Mr. A. Millar died very suddenly:--and very much regretted.
The following Instructions were given to the Senior Officer of the
Expedition.
"By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.
"Whereas we think fit that an accurate Survey should be made of the
Southern Coasts of the Peninsula of South America, from the southern
entrance of the River Plata, round to Chiloe; and of Tierra del Fuego; and
whereas we have been induced to repose confidence in you, from your conduct
of the Surveys in New Holland; we have placed you in the command of His
Majesty's Surveying Vessel the Adventure; and we have directed Captain
Stokes, of His Majesty's Surveying Vessel the Beagle, to follow your
orders.
"Both these vessels are provided with all the {xvi} means which are
necessary for the complete execution of the object above-mentioned, and for
the health and comfort of their Ships' Companies. You are also furnished
with all the information, we at present possess, of the ports which you are
to survey; and nine Government Chronometers have been embarked in the
Adventure, and three in the Beagle, for the better determination of the
Longitudes.
"You are therefore hereby required and directed, as soon as both vessels
shall be in all respects ready, to put to sea with them; and on your way to
your ulterior destination, you are to make, or call at, the following
places, successively; namely; Madeira: Teneriffe: the northern point of St.
Antonio, and the anchorage at St. Jago; both in the Cape Verd Islands: the
Island of Trinidad, in the Southern Atlantic: and Rio de Janeiro: for the
purpose of ascertaining the differences of the longitudes of those several
places.
"At Rio de Janeiro, you will receive any supplies you may require; and make
with the Commander-in-chief, on that Station, such arrangements as may tend
to facilitate your receiving further supplies, in the course of your
Expedition.
"After which, you are to proceed to the entrance of the River Plata, to
ascertain the longitudes of the Cape Santa Maria, and Monte Video: you are
then to proceed to survey the Coasts, Islands, and Straits; from Cape St.
Antonio, at the south side {xvii} of the River Plata, to Chiloe; on the
west coast of America; in such manner and order, as the state of the
season, the information you may have received, or other circumstances, may
induce you to adopt.
"You are to continue on this service until it shall be completed; taking
every opportunity to communicate to our Secretary, and the
Commander-in-Chief, your proceedings: and also, whenever you may be able to
form any judgment of it, where the Commander-in-Chief, or our Secretary,
may be able to communicate with you.
"In addition to any arrangements made with the Admiral, for recruiting your
stores, and provisions; you are, of course, at liberty to take all other
means, which may be within your reach, for that essential purpose.
"You are to avail yourself of every opportunity of collecting and
preserving Specimens of such objects of Natural History as may be new,
rare, or interesting; and you are to instruct Captain Stokes, and all the
other Officers, to use their best diligence in increasing the Collections
in each ship: the whole of which must be understood to belong to the
Public.
"In the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the two
vessels, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled vessel to
be {xviii} removed into the other, and with her, singly, to proceed in
prosecution of the service, or return to England, according as
circumstances shall appear to require; understanding that the officers and
crews of both vessels are hereby authorized, and required, to continue to
perform their duties, according to their respective ranks and stations, on
board either vessel to which they may be so removed. Should, unfortunately,
your own vessel be the one disabled, you are in that case to take the
command of the Beagle: and, in the event of any fatal accident happening to
yourself; Captain Stokes is hereby authorized to take the command of the
Expedition; either on board the Adventure, or Beagle, as he may prefer;
placing the officer of the Expedition who may then be next in seniority to
him, in command of the second vessel: also, in the event of your inability,
by sickness or otherwise, at any period of this service, to continue to
carry the Instructions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain
Stokes, or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, who is
hereby required to execute them, in the best manner he can, for the
attainment of the object in view.
"When you shall have completed the service, or shall, from any cause, be
induced to give it up; you will return to Spithead with all convenient
expedition; and report your arrival, and proceedings, to our Secretary, for
our information.
{xix}
"Whilst on the South American Station, you are to consider yourself under
the command of the Admiral of that Station; to whom we have expressed our
desire that he should not interfere with these orders, except under
peculiar necessity.
"Given under our hands the 16th of May 1826.
(Signed) "MELVILLE.
"G. COCKBURN.
"To Phillip P. King, Esq., Commander
of His Majesty's Surveying Vessel
Adventure, at Plymouth.
"By command of their Lordships.
(Signed) "J. W. CROKER."
On the 22d of May, 1826, the Adventure and Beagle sailed from Plymouth;
and, in their way to Rio de Janeiro, called successively at Madeira,
Teneriffe, and St. Jago.
Unfavourable weather prevented a boat being sent ashore at the northern
part of San Antonio; but observations were made in Terrafal Bay, on the
south-west side of the island: and, after crossing the Equator, the
Trade-wind hung so much to the southward, that Trinidad could not be
approached without a sacrifice of time, which, it was considered, might be
prejudicial to more important objects of the Expedition.
Both ships anchored at Rio de Janeiro on the {xx} 10th of August, and
remained there until the 2d of October, when they sailed to the River
Plata.
In Maldonado,[3] their anchors were dropped on the 13th of the same month;
and, till the 12th of November, each vessel was employed on the north side
of the river, between Cape St. Mary and Monte Video.
* * * * *
{xxi}
CONTENTS
VOLUME I.
------
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Departure from Monte Video--Port Santa Elena--Geological
remarks--Cape Fairweather--Non-existence of Chalk--Natural
History--Approach to Cape Virgins, and the Strait of
Magalhaens (or Magellan) 1
CHAPTER II.
Enter the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchor
off Cape Possession--First Narrow--Gregory Bay--Patagonian
Indians--Second Narrow--Elizabeth Island--Freshwater Bay--
Fuegian Indians--Arrival at Port Famine 12
CHAPTER III.
Prepare the Beagle, and a decked boat (the Hope) for
surveying the Strait--Beagle sails westward, and the Hope
towards the south-east--Sarmiento's Voyage--and description
of the colony formed by him at Port Famine--Steamer Duck--
Large trees--Parroquets--Mount Tarn--Barometrical
observations--Geological character--Report of the Hope's
cruise 26
CHAPTER IV.
Deer seen--Hope sails again--Eagle Bay--Gabriel Channel--
'Williwaws'--Port Waterfall--Natives--Admiralty Sound--
Gabriel Channel--Magdalen Channel--Hope returns to Port
Famine--San Antonio--Lomas Bay--Loss of boat--Master and
two seamen drowned 48
{xxii}
CHAPTER V.
Lieutenant Sholl arrives--Beagle returns--Loss of the Saxe
Coburg sealer--Captain Stokes goes to Fury Harbour to save
her Crew--Beagle's proceedings--Bougainville's memorial--
Cordova's memorial--Beagle's danger--Difficulties--Captain
Stokes's boat-cruise--Passages--Natives--Dangerous service--
Western entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens--Hope's
cruise--Prepare to return to Monte Video 65
CHAPTER VI.
Trees--Leave Port Famine--Patagonians--Gregory Bay--
Bysante--Maria--Falkner's account of the Natives--
Indians seen on the borders of the Otway Water, in 1829--
Maria visits the Adventure--Religious ceremony--Patagonian
Encampment--Tomb of a Child--Women's employment--
Children--Gratitude of a Native--Size of Patagonians--
Former accounts of their gigantic height--Character--
Articles for barter--Fuegians living with Patagonians--
Ships sail--Arrive at Monte Video and Rio de Janeiro 84
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Rio de Janeiro--Santos--Sta. Catharina--Monte
Video--Purchase the Adelaide schooner, for a Tender to
the Adventure--Leave Monte Video--Beagle goes to Port
Desire--Shoals off Cape Blanco--Bellaco Rock--Cape
Virgins--Possession Bay--First Narrow--Race--Gregory
Bay--View--Tomb--Traffic with Natives--Cordial meeting--
Maria goes on board--Natives intoxicated--Laredo Bay--
Port Famine 106
CHAPTER VIII.
Find that the Cutter had been burned--Anxiety for the
Beagle--Uxbridge Sealer--Beagle arrives--Her cruise--
Bellaco Rock--San Julian--Santa Cruz--Gallegos--Adeona--
{xxiii}
Death of Lieutenant Sholl--Adelaide sails--Supposed
Channel of San Antonio--Useless Bay--Natives--Port San
Antonio--Humming-birds--Fuegians--Beagle sails--Sarmiento--
Roldan--Pond--Whales--Structure--Scenery--Port Gallant 118
CHAPTER IX.
Detention in Port Gallant--Humming-birds in snow showers--
Fuegians--Geological remarks--Canoes--Carving--Birds--
Fish--Shag Narrows--Glaciers--Avalanches--Natives--
Climate--Winter setting in--Adelaide loses a boat--
Floods--Lightning--Scurvy--Adelaide's survey--Bougainville
Harbour--Indians cross the Strait, and visit Port Famine--
Sealing vessels sail--Scurvy increases--Adelaide sent for
guanaco meat--Return of the Beagle--Captain Stokes very
ill--Adelaide brings meat from the Patagonians--Death of
Captain Stokes 133
CHAPTER X.
Account of the Beagle's cruise--Borja Bay--Cape Quod--
Stuart Bay--Cape Notch--Remarks on weather, and errors
of Chart--Evangelists--Santa Lucia--Madre de Dios--Gulf of
Trinidad--Port Henry--Puma's track--Humming-birds--Very
bad weather--Campana Island--Dangers--Gale--Wet--Sick--
Santa Barbara--Wager's beam--Wigwams--Guaineco Islands--
Cape Tres Montes--St. Paul--Port Otway--Hoppner Sound--
Cape Raper 154
CHAPTER XI.
Leave Port Otway--San Quintin Sound--Gulf of Penas--Kelly
Harbour--St. Xavier Island--Death of Serjeant Lyndsey--
Port Xavier--Ygnacio Bay--Channel's mouth--Bad weather--
Perilous situation--Lose the yawl--Sick list--Return to
Port Otway--Thence to Port Famine--Gregory Bay--Natives--
Guanaco meat--Skunk--Condors--Brazilians--Juanico--Captain
Foster--Changes of officers 173
{xxiv}
CHAPTER XII.
Adventure sails from Rio de Janeiro to the River Plata--
Gorriti--Maldonado--Extraordinary Pampero--Beagle's
losses--Ganges arrives--another Pampero--Go up the river
for water--Gale, and consequent detention--Sail from Monte
Video--part from Consorts--Port Desire--Tower Rock--
Skeletons--Sea Bear Bay--Fire--Guanacoes--Port Desire
Inlet--Indian graves--Vessels separate--Captain Foster--
Chanticleer--Cape Horn--Kater Peak--Sail from St. Martin
Cove--Tribute to Captain Foster--Valparaiso--Santiago--
Pinto Heights--Chiloe--Aldunate 189
CHAPTER XIII.
Beagle and Adelaide anchor in Possession Bay--Beagle
passes the First Narrow--Fogs--Pecket Harbour--Adelaide
arrives with Guanaco meat--Portuguese Seamen--Peculiar
light--Party missing--Return--Proceed towards Port
Famine--Fuegians--Lieut. Skyring--Adelaide sails to survey
Magdalen and Barbara Channels--Views--Lyell Sound--Kempe
Harbour--Cascade Bay--San Pedro Sound--Port Gallant--
Diet--Rain--Awnings--Boat cruise--Warning--Jerome
Channel--Blanket bags--Otway Water--Frequent rain--
Difficulty in lighting fires 212
CHAPTER XIV.
Place for a Settlement--Frost--Boats in danger--Narrow
escape--Sudden change--Beagle Hills--Fuegian Painting--
Tides--Medicine--Water warmer than the air--Jerome
Channel--Mr. Stokes returns to the Beagle--Cape Quod--
Snowy Sound--Whale Sound--Choiseul Bay--Return to the
Beagle--Adelaide returns--Plan of operations--Difficulties
removed--Preparations--Wear and tear of clothing--Ascend
the Mountain de la Cruz--Sail from Port Gallant--Tides--
Borja Bay--Cape Quod--Gulf of Xaultegua--Frost and snow--
Meet Adelaide--Part--Enter Pacific--Arrive at Chiloe 230
{xxv}
CHAPTER XV.
Extracts from the Journals of Lieutenants Skyring and
Graves--Magdalen Channel--Keats Sound--Mount Sarmiento--
Barrow Head--Cockburn Channel--Prevalence of south-west
winds--Melville Sound--Ascent of Mount Skyring--Memorial--
Cockburn and Barbara Channels--Mass of Islets and Rocks--
Hewett Bay--Cypress trees useful--Adelaide rejoins Beagle
in Port Gallant--Captain King's narrative resumed--Plan of
future proceedings--Adelaide arrives at Chiloe--Abstract
of Lieutenant Skyring's account of her proceedings--Smyth
Channel--Mount Burney--'Ancon sin Salida'--Natives--Kirke
Narrow--Guia Narrow--Peculiar tides--Indians in plank
Canoes--Passage to Chiloe 251
CHAPTER XVI.
Chiloe--Its probable importance--Valdivia founds seven
Cities; afterwards destroyed by the Indians--Migration of
Spanish settlers--Province and Islands of Chiloe--Districts
and population--Government--Defence--Winds--Town--
Durability of wooden Buildings--Cultivation--Want of
industry--Improvement--Dress--Habits of lower Classes--
Morality--Schools--Language--Produce--Manufactures--
Exports and imports--Varieties of wood--Alerse--Roads--
Piraguas--Ploughs--Corn--Potatoes--Contributions--Birds--
Shell-fish--Medical practitioners--Remedies--Climate 269
CHAPTER XVII.
Chiloe the last Spanish possession in South America--
Freyre's Expedition--Failure--Second Expedition under
Freyre and Blanco--Quintanilla's capitulation--Chiloe
taken--Aldunate placed in command--Chiloe a dependency of
Chile--Beagle sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego--
Adelaide repaired--Adelaide sails--Adventure goes to
{xxvi}
Valparaiso--Juan Fernandez--Fishery--Goats--Dogs--
Geology--Botany--Shells--Spanish accounts--Anson's
voyage--Talcahuano--Concepcion--Pinoleo--Araucanian
Indians--Re-enter the Strait of Magalhaens--Fuegians 298
CHAPTER XVIII.
Adelaide's last cruise--Port Otway--San Quintin--Marine
Islands--Unknown river or passage--San Tadeo--Isthmus
of Ofqui--San Rafael--Sufferings and route of Wager's
party--Channel's Mouth--Byron--Cheap--Elliot--Hamilton--
Campbell--Indian Cacique--Passage of the Desecho--
Osorio--Xavier Island--Jesuit Sound--Kirke's report--
Night tides--Guaianeco Islands--Site of the Wager's
wreck--Bulkely and Cummings--Speedwell Bay--Indigenous
wild Potato--Mesier Channel--Fatal Bay--Death of Mr.
Millar--Fallos Channel--Lieutenant Skyring's illness--
English Narrow--Fish--Wigwams--Indians--Level Bay--Brazo
Ancho--Eyre Sound--Seal--Icebergs--Walker Bay--Nature of
the Country--Habits of the Natives--Scarcity of population 323
CHAPTER XIX.
Sarmiento Channel--Ancon sin Salida--Cape Earnest--Canal
of the Mountains--Termination of the Andes--Kirke Narrow--
Easter Bay--Disappointment Bay--Obstruction Sound--Last
Hope Inlet--Swans--Coots--Deer River--Lagoon--Singular
Eddies--Passage of the Narrow--Arrival at Port Famine--
Zoological remarks 346
CHAPTER XX.
Beagle sails from San Carlos--Enters Strait--Harbour of
Mercy--Cape Pillar--Apostles--Judges--Landfall Island--
Cape Gloucester--Dislocation Harbour--Week Islands--
Fuegians--Latitude Bay--Boat's crew in distress--Petrel--
Passages--Otway Bay--Cape Tate--Fincham Islands--
{xxvii}
Deepwater Sound--Breaker Bay--Grafton Islands--Geological
remarks--Barbara Channel--Mount Skyring--Compasses
affected--Drawings--Provisions--Opportunities lost 360
CHAPTER XXI.
Skyring's chart--Noir Island--Penguins--Fuegians--
Sarmiento--Townshend Harbour--Horace Peaks--Cape
Desolation--Boat lost--Basket--Search in Desolation Bay--
Natives--Heavy Gale--Surprise--Seizure--Consequences--
Return to Beagle--Sail to Stewart Harbour--Set out
again--Escape of Natives--Unavailing search--Discomforts--
Tides--Nature of Coast--Doris Cove--Christmas Sound--
Cook--York-Minster--March Harbour--Build a boat--
Treacherous rocks--Skirmish with the Natives--Captives--
Boat Memory--Petrel 386
CHAPTER XXII.
Mr. Murray returns--Go to New Year Sound--See Diego
Ramirez Islands from Henderson Island--Weddell's Indian
Cove--Sympiesometer--Return to Christmas Sound--Beagle
sails--Passes the Ildefonso and Diego Ramirez Islands--
Anchors in Nassau Bay--Orange Bay--Yapoos--Mr. Murray
discovers the Beagle Channel--Numerous Natives--
Guanacoes--Compasses affected--Cape Horn--Specimens--
Chanticleer--Mistake about St. Francis Bay--Diego Ramirez
Islands--Climate--San Joachim Cove--Barnevelt Isles--
Evouts Isle--Lennox Harbour 417
CHAPTER XXIII.
Set out in boats--Find Guanacoes--Murray Narrow--Birch
Fungus--Tide--Channel--Glaciers--View--Mountains--
Unbroken chain--Passages--Steam-vessels--Jemmy Button--
Puma--Nest--Accident--Natives--Murray's Journal--Cape
Graham--Cape Kinnaird--Spaniard Harbour--Valentyn Bay--
{xxviii}
Cape Good Success--Natives--Lennox Island--Strait le
Maire--Good Success Bay--Accident--Tide race--San
Vicente--San Diego--Tides--Soundings--North-East Coast--
San Sebastian--Reflections--Port Desire--Monte Video--
Santa Catharina--Rio de Janeiro 438
CHAPTER XXIV.
A few Nautical remarks upon the passage round Cape Horn;
and upon that through the Strait of Magalhaens, or Magellan 463
{xxix}
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER
FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
VOLUME I.
Map of South America Loose.
Strait of Magalhaens Loose.
Patagonian Frontispiece.
Monte Video to face page 1
Distant View of Mount Sarmiento (with two other views) 26
Curious Peak--Admiralty Sound (with other views) 52
Patagonian 'toldo' and tomb 94
Monte Video Mole 105
Rio de Janeiro 106
Fuegian Wigwams at Hope Harbour, in the Magdalen Channel 126
Monte Video--Custom-House 187
Corcovado Mountain 188
Mount Sarmiento 252
San Carlos de Chiloe 275
Breast Ploughing in Chiloe 287
Point Arena--Chiloe (with other views) 300
South West opening of Cockburn Channel (with views of Headlands) 407
Wollaston Island, near Cape Horn 433
Chart of a part of South America, by Captain P. P. King 463
------
NOTE.--The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the covers of the
volumes.
* * * * *
ERRATA ET CORRIGENDA.
------
Page 76, line 4 from bottom, _for_ lying, _read_ being.
118, Heading, line 4, _for_ Beagle sailed, _read_ Beagle sails.
123, line 17, _insert_ narrow, _before_ and shoal.
164, line 23, _instead of_ the, _read_ our.
174, line 6, _for_ cuts, _read_ cut.
193, line 5, _for_ have, _read_ had.
223, (Note) line 2 from bottom, _for_ they, _read_ he.
229, line 9, _for _was, _read_ were.
265, line 8, _after_ day, _insert a_ colon _instead of a_ comma.
273, line 21, _after_ as well, _insert_ as.
301, line 23, _for_ Lieutenants Skyring and Graves again took with them,
_read_ Lieutenant Skyring again took with him.
411, line 2, _dele_ the.
437, line 16, _for_ contiue, _read_ continue.
443, line 19, _for_ wit, _read_ with.
462, line 21, _for_ Santa Catalina, _read_ Santa Catharina.
473, line 17, _after_ which is, _insert_ a.
481, bottom line, _for_ 53. 32. 30, _read_ 53. 52. 30.
485, line 7, (of positions) _for_ 53. 31, _read_ 53. 51.
---- bottom line, _for_ 11. 51, _read_ 3. 26.
488, line 9, _for_ Northern, _read_ Southern.
489, line 4 from bottom, _for_ 46. 03, _read_ 46. 30; and _for_ 40. 50,
_read_ 40. 05.
490, line 6, _for_ 50deg, _read_ 49deg.
491, line 6, _for_ 36. 56, _read_ 36. 16.
493, line 9, _for_ 54. 30. 00, _read_ 54. 05. 20; and _for_ 73. 1. 30,
_read_ 73. 25. 30.
526, _for_ Variation, _read_ Dip.
MAMMALIA.
529, line 8, _for_ Harlau _read_ Harlan.
531, line 6, _for_ KERODA _read_ KERODON.
BIRDS.
532, line 1, _for_ Dumerel, _read_ Dumeril.
---- line 7, _for_ MILOAGO, _read_ MILVAGO.
---- line 19, _for_ SPAROERIUS, _read_ SPARVERIUS.
533, line 16, _dele_ Spix.
---- bottom line, _for_ SILVIA, _read_ SYLVIA, and in next page the same.
534, line 12, _dele_ Fursa, Veillot.
---- line 10 from bottom, _for_ SMARAGDIMIS, _read_ SMARAGDINUS.
536, line 9 from bottom, _for_ STRUTHEO, _read_ STRUTHIO.
---- line 6 from bottom, for _rinacea_, read _binacea_.
537, line 14, _for_ TOTAMUS, _read_ TOTANUS.
538, line 5, for _subtas_, read _subtus_.
---- lower lines, _where_ HOEMATOPUS occurs, _read_ HAEMATOPUS.
540, last line, for _meneque_, read _mineque_; and for _parie_, read
_parce_.
541, line 12, _for_ CATARRHOCTES, _read_ CATARRHACTES.
---- line 2 from bottom, for _ud_, read _ad_.
543, line 13, for _gracillimus_, read _gracillimis_.
SHELLS.
545, last line, for _brachyptera_, read _brachypterus_; for _Patachonica_,
read _Patachonicus_.
* * * * *
[Illustration: C. Martens T. Landseer
MONTE VIDEO.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
* * * * *
{1} SURVEYING VOYAGES
OF THE
ADVENTURE AND THE BEAGLE,
1826-1830.
------
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Monte Video--Port Santa Elena--Geological remarks--Cape
Fairweather--Non-existence of Chalk--Natural History--Approach to Cape
Virgins, and the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan)
We sailed from Monte Video on the 19th of November 1826; and, in company
with the Beagle, quitted the river Plata.
According to my Instructions, the Survey was to commence at Cape San
Antonio, the southern limit of the entrance of the Plata; but, for the
following urgent reasons, I decided to begin with the southern coasts of
Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego, including the Straits of Magalhaens.[4] In
the first place, they presented a field of great interest and novelty; and
secondly, the climate of the higher southern latitudes being so severe and
tempestuous, it appeared important to encounter its rigours while the ships
were in good condition--while the crews were healthy--and while the charms
of a new and difficult enterprize had full force.
{2}
Our course was therefore southerly, and in latitude 45deg south, a few
leagues northward of Port Santa Elena, we first saw the coast of Patagonia.
I intended to visit that port; and, on the 28th, anchored, and landed
there.
Seamen should remember that a knowledge of the tide is of especial
consequence in and near Port Santa Elena. During a calm we were carried by
it towards reefs which line the shore, and were obliged to anchor until a
breeze sprung up.
The coast along which we had passed, from Point Lobos to the north-east
point of Port Santa Elena, appeared to be dry and bare of vegetation. There
were no trees; the land seemed to be one long extent of undulating plain,
beyond which were high, flat-topped hills of a rocky, precipitous
character. The shore was fronted by rocky reefs extending two or three
miles from high-water mark, which, as the tide fell, were left dry, and in
many places were covered with seals.
As soon as we had secured the ships, Captain Stokes accompanied me on shore
to select a place for our observations. We found the spot which the Spanish
astronomers of Malaspina's Voyage (in 1798) used for their observatory, the
most convenient for our purpose. It is near a very steep shingle (stony)
beach at the back of a conspicuous red-coloured, rocky projection which
terminates a small bay, on the western side, at the head of the port. The
remains of a wreck, which proved to be that of an American whaler, the
Decatur of New York, were found upon the extremity of the same point; she
had been driven on shore from her anchors during a gale.
The sight of the wreck, and the steepness of the shingle beach just
described, evidently caused by the frequent action of a heavy sea, did not
produce a favourable opinion of the safety of the port: but as it was not
the season for easterly gales, to which only the anchorage is exposed, and
as appearances indicated a westerly wind, we did not anticipate danger.
While we were returning on board, the wind blew so strongly that we had
much difficulty in reaching the ships, and the boats were no sooner hoisted
up, and every thing {3} made snug, than it blew a hard gale from the S.W.
The water however, from the wind being off the land, was perfectly smooth,
and the ships rode securely through the night: but the following morning
the gale increased, and veered to the southward, which threw a heavy sea
into the port, placing us, to say the least, in a very uneasy situation.
Happily it ceased at sunset. In consequence of the unfavourable state of
the weather, no attempt was made to land in order to observe an eclipse of
the sun; to make which observation was one reason for visiting this port.
The day after the gale, while I was employed in making some astronomical
observations, a party roamed about in quest of game: but with little
success, as they killed only a few wild ducks. The fire which they made for
cooking communicated to the dry stubbly grass, and in a few minutes the
whole country was in a blaze. The flames continued to spread during our
stay, and, in a few days, more than fifteen miles along the coast, and
seven or eight miles into the interior were overrun by the fire. The smoke
very much impeded our observations, for at times it quite obscured the sun.
The geological structure of this part of the country, and a considerable
portion of the coast to the north and south, consists of a fine-grained
porphyritic clay slate. The summits of the hills near the coast are
generally of a rounded form, and are paved, as it were, with small,
rounded, siliceous pebbles, imbedded in the soil, and in no instance lying
loose or in heaps; but those of the interior are flat-topped, and uniform
in height, for many miles in extent. The valleys and lower elevations,
notwithstanding the poverty and parched state of the soil, were partially
covered with grass and shrubby plants, which afford sustenance to numerous
herds of guanacoes. Many of these animals were observed feeding near the
beach when we were working into the bay, but they took the alarm, so that
upon landing we only saw them at a considerable distance. In none of our
excursions could we find any water that had not a brackish taste. Several
wells have been dug in the valleys, both near the sea and at a considerable
distance from it, by the {4} crews of sealing vessels; but, except in the
rainy season, they all contain saltish water. This observation is
applicable to nearly the whole extent of the porphyritic country.
Oyster-shells, three or four inches in diameter, were found, scattered over
the hills, to the height of three or four hundred feet above the sea. Sir
John Narborough, in 1652, found oyster-shells at Port San Julian; but, from
a great many which have been lately collected there, we know that they are
of a species different from that found at Port Santa Elena. Both are
fossils.
No recent specimen of the genus _Ostrea_ was found by us on any part of the
Patagonian coast. Narborough, in noticing those at Port San Julian, says,
"They are the biggest oyster-shells that I ever saw, some six, some seven
inches broad, yet not one oyster to be found in the harbour: whence I
conclude they were here when the world was formed."
The short period of our visit did not enable us to add much to natural
history. Of quadrupeds we saw guanacoes, foxes, cavies, and the armadillo;
but no traces of the puma (_Felis concolor_), or South American lion,
although it is to be met with in the interior.
I mentioned that a herd of guanacoes was feeding near the shore when we
arrived. Every exertion was made to obtain some of the animals; but, either
from their shyness, or our ignorance of the mode of entrapping them, we
tried in vain, until the arrival of a small sealing-vessel, which had
hastened to our assistance, upon seeing the fires we had accidentally made,
but which her crew thought were intended for signals of distress. They shot
two, and sent some of the meat on board the Adventure. The next day, Mr.
Tarn succeeded in shooting one, a female, which, when skinned and cleaned,
weighed 168 lbs. Narborough mentions having killed one at Port San Julian,
that weighed, "cleaned in his quarters, 268 lbs." The watchful and wary
character of this animal is very remarkable. Whenever a herd is feeding,
one is posted, like a sentinel, on a height; and, at the approach of
danger, gives instant alarm by a loud neigh, when away they all go, at a
hand-gallop, to the next eminence, where they quietly resume their feeding,
{5} until again warned of the approach of danger by their vigilant
'look-out.'
Another peculiarity of the guanaco is, the habit of resorting to particular
spots for natural purposes. This is mentioned in the 'Dictionnaire
d'Histoire Naturelle,' in the 'Encyclopedie Methodique,' as well as other
works.
In one place we found the bones of thirty-one guanacoes collected within a
space of thirty yards, perhaps the result of an encampment of Indians, as
evident traces of them were observed; among which were a human jaw-bone,
and a piece of agate ingeniously chipped into the shape of a spear-head.
The fox, which we did not take, appeared to be small, and similar to a new
species afterwards found by us in the Strait of Magalhaens.
The cavia[5] (or, as it is called by Narborough, Byron, and Wood, the hare,
an animal from which it differs both in appearance and habits, as well as
flavour), makes a good dish; and so does the armadillo, which our people
called the shell-pig.[6] This little animal is found abundantly about the
low land, and lives in burrows underground; several were taken by the
seamen, and, when cooked in their shells, were savoury and wholesome.
Teal were abundant upon the marshy grounds. A few partridges, doves, and
snipes, a rail, and some hawks were shot. The few sea-birds that were
observed consisted of two species of gulls, a grebe and a penguin
(_Aptenodytes Magellanica_).
We found two species of snakes and several kinds of lizards. Fish were
scarce, as were also insects; of the last, our {6} collections consisted
only of a few species of _Coleoptera_, two or three _Lepidoptera_, and two
_Hymenoptera_.
Among the sea-shells, the most abundant was the _Patella deaurata_, Lamk.;
this, with three other species of Patella, one _Chiton_, three species of
_Mytilus_, three of _Murex_, one of _Crepidula_, and a _Venus_, were all
that we collected.
About the country, near the sea-shore, there is a small tree, whose stem
and roots are highly esteemed for fuel by the crews of sealing-vessels
which frequent this coast. They call it 'piccolo.' The leaf was described
to me as having a prickle upon it, and the flower as of a yellow colour. A
species of berberis also is found, which when ripe may afford a very
palatable fruit.
Our short visit gave us no flattering opinion of the fertility of the
country near this port. Of the interior we were ignorant; but, from the
absence of Indians and the scarcity of fresh water, it is probably very
bare of pasturage. Falkner, the Jesuit missionary, says these parts were
used by the Tehuelhet tribes for burying-places: we saw, however, no
graves, nor any traces of bodies, excepting the jaw-bone above-mentioned;
but subsequently, at Sea Bear Bay, we found many places on the summits of
the hills which had evidently been used for such a purpose, although then
containing no remains of bodies. This corresponds with Falkner's account,
that after a period of twelve months the sepulchres are formally visited by
the tribe, when the bones of their relatives and friends are collected and
carried to certain places, where the skeletons are arranged in order, and
tricked out with all the finery and ornaments they can collect.
The ships sailed from Port Santa Elena on the 5th December, and proceeded
to the southward, coasting the shore as far as Cape Two Bays.
Our object being to proceed with all expedition to the Strait of
Magalhaens, the examination of this part of the coast was reserved for a
future opportunity. On the 13th, we had reached within fifty miles of Cape
Virgins, the headland at the entrance of the strait, but it was directly in
the wind's eye {7} of us. The wind veering to S.S.W., we made about a west
course. At day-light the land was in sight, terminating in a point to the
S.W., so exactly like the description of Cape Virgins and the view of it in
Alison's voyage, that without considering our place on the chart, or
calculating the previous twenty-four hours' run, it was taken for the Cape
itself, and, no one suspecting a mistake, thought of verifying the ship's
position. The point, however, proved to be Cape Fairweather. It was not a
little singular, that the same mistake should have been made on board the
Beagle, where the error was not discovered for three days.[7]
From the appearance of the weather I was anxious to approach the land in
order to anchor, as there seemed to be every likelihood of a gale; and we
were not deceived, for at three o'clock, being within seven miles of the
Cape, a strong wind sprung up from the S.W., and the anchor was dropped.
Towards evening it blew so hard, that both ships dragged their anchors for
a considerable distance.
On the charts of this part of the coast the shore is described to be formed
of "chalk hills, like the coast of Kent." To geologists, therefore,
especially, as they were not disposed to believe that such was the fact,
this was a question of some interest. From our anchorage the appearance of
the land favoured our belief of the existence of chalk. The outline was
very level and steep; precipitous cliffs of whitish colour, stratified
horizontally, with their upper part occasionally worn into hollows,
strongly resembled the chalk cliffs of the English coasts.
The gale prevented our landing for three days, when (19th) a few minutes
sufficed to discover that the cliffs were composed {8} of soft clay,
varying in colour and consistence, and disposed in strata running
horizontally for many miles without interruption, excepting where
water-courses had worn them away. Some of the strata were very fine clay,
unmixed with any other substance, whilst others were plentifully strewed
with round siliceous gravel,[8] without any vestige of organic remains. The
sea beach, from high-water mark to the base of the cliffs, is formed by
shingle, with scattered masses of indurated clay of a green colour.[9]
Between the high and low tide marks there is a smooth beach of the same
green clay as the masses above-mentioned, which appears to have been
hardened by the action of the surf to the consistence of stone. Generally
this beach extends for about one hundred yards farther into the sea, and is
succeeded by a soft green mud, over which the water gradually deepens. The
outer edge of the clay forms a ledge, extending parallel with the coast,
upon the whole length of which the sea breaks, and over it a boat can with
difficulty pass at low water.
The very few shells we found were dead. Strewed about the beach were
numbers of fish, some of which had been thrown on shore by the last tide,
and were scarcely stiff. They principally belonged to the genus _Ophidium_;
the largest that we saw measured four feet seven inches in length, and
weighed twenty-four pounds. Many caught alongside the ship were, in truth,
coarse and insipid; yet our people, who fed heartily upon them, called them
ling, and thought them palatable. The hook, however, furnished us with a
very wholesome and well-flavoured species of cod (_Gadus_). Attached to the
first we found two parasitical animals; one was a _Cymothoa_, the other a
species of _Lernaea_, which had so {9} securely attached itself under the
skin, as not to be removed without cutting off a piece of the flesh with
it. An undescribed species of _Muraena_ was also taken.
Whilst we were on shore, the Beagle moved eight or nine miles nearer to the
Cape, where Captain Stokes landed to fix positions of remarkable land. One
peaked hill, from the circumstance of his seeing a large animal near it, he
called Tiger Mount. Mr. Bowen shot a guanaco; and being at a distance in
shore, unable to procure assistance, he skinned and quartered it with his
pocket-knife, and carried it upon his shoulders to the boat.
Next morning the ships weighed, and proceeded towards Cape Virgins.
When a-breast of Cape Fairweather, the opening of the river Gallegos was
very distinctly seen; but the examination of it was deferred to a future
opportunity. Passing onward, the water shoaled to four fathoms, until we
had passed extensive banks, which front the river.
Our approach to the entrance of the Strait, although attended with anxiety,
caused sensations of interest and pleasure not easily to be described.
Though dangers were experienced by some navigators who had passed it, the
comparative facility with which others had effected the passage showed
that, at times, the difficulties were easily surmounted, and we were
willing to suppose that in the former case there might have been some
little exaggeration.
The most complete, and, probably, the only good account of the navigation
of the Strait of Magalhaens is contained in the narrative of Don Antonio de
Cordova, who commanded the Spanish frigate Santa Maria de la Cabeza, on a
voyage expressly for the purpose of exploring the strait. It was published
under the title of 'Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes.' That voyage
was, however, concluded with only the examination of the eastern part, and
a subsequent expedition was made, under the command of the same officer,
the account of which was appended to the Cabeza's voyage; so that Cordova's
expedition still retained the appellation of 'Ultimo {10} Viage, &c.' It is
written in a plain and simple style, gives a most correct account of every
thing seen, and should therefore be in the possession of every person who
attempts the navigation of the strait.
Cordova's account of the climate is very uninviting. Speaking of the
rigours of the summer months (January, February, and March), he says,
"Seldom was the sky clear, and short were the intervals in which we
experienced the sun's warmth: no day passed by without some rain having
fallen, and the most usual state of the weather was that of constant
rain."[10]
The accounts of Wallis and Carteret are still more gloomy. The former
concludes that part of his narrative with the following dismal and
disheartening description: "Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable
region, where we were in almost continual danger of shipwreck for near four
months, having entered the strait on the 17th of December, and quitted it
on the 11th of April 1767: a region where, in the midst of summer, the
weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more the
appearance of a chaos than of nature; and where for the most part the
valleys were without herbage and the hills without wood."
These records of Cordova and Wallis made me feel not a little apprehensive
for the health of the crew, which could not be expected to escape uninjured
through the rigours of such a climate. Nor were the narratives of Byron or
Bougainville calculated to lessen my anxiety. In an account, however, of a
voyage to the strait by M. A. Duclos Guyot, the following paragraph tended
considerably to relieve my mind upon the subject:--"At length, on Saturday
the 23d of March, we sailed out of that famous Strait, so much dreaded,
after having experienced that there, as well as in other places, it was
very fine, and very warm, and that for three-fourths of the time the sea
was perfectly calm."
In every view of the case, our proximity to the principal scene of action
occasioned sensations of a peculiar nature, in which, however, those that
were most agreeable and hopeful {11} preponderated. The officers and crews
of both ships were healthy, and elated with the prospect before them; our
vessels were in every respect strong and sea-worthy; and we were possessed
of every comfort and resource necessary for encountering much greater
difficulties than we had any reason to anticipate.
* * * * *
There has existed much difference of opinion as to the correct mode of
spelling the name of the celebrated navigator who discovered this
Strait. The French and English usually write it Magellan, and the
Spaniards Magallanes; but by the Portuguese (and he was a native of
Portugal) it is universally written Magalhaens. Admiral Burney and Mr.
Dalrymple spell it Magalhanes, which mode I have elsewhere adopted, but
I have since convinced myself of the propriety of following the
Portuguese orthography for a name which, to this day, is very common
both in Portugal and Brazil.
* * * * *
{12}