[Illustration: _For Werne’s Expedition to the Source of the White Nile._
Hillmandel & Walton Lithographers.
Richard Bentley New Burlington Street, 1849.]
EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES OF
THE WHITE NILE,
IN THE YEARS
1840, 1841.
BY FERDINAND WERNE.
From the German,
BY CHARLES WILLIAM O’REILLY.
* * * * *
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
* * * * *
1849.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
SLEEPING TOKULS OR BARNS. — CRUELTY AND LICENTIOUSNESS OF THE
TURKS. — ARNAUD AND SELIM CAPITAN’S FEAR OF THE NATIVES. —
NEGROES SHOT BY THE TURKS. — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. — RED MEN.
— ARNAUD’S MADNESS. — FEAR OF THE NEGROES AT FIRE-ARMS. — VISIT
OF A CHIEF AND HIS SON. — TOBACCO AND SHEEP. — MOUNT KORÈK. —
NATION OF BARI. — VISIT OF THE BROTHER AND SON-IN-LAW OF THE
KING. — CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS. 1
CHAPTER II.
RECEPTION OF ENVOYS FROM KING LÀKONO. — DESCRIPTION OF THEM.
— RELIGION OF THE BARIS: THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS. — PANIC
CREATED AMONG THE NATIVES AT THE EXPLOSION OF CANNON. — LIVELY
SCENE ON SHORE. — COLOURED WOMEN. — ARRIVAL OF KING LÀKONO AND
SUITE. — HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE COMMANDERS: HIS DRESS. — THE
NATIONAL MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF BARI. — PRESENTS TO KING
LÀKONO, AND HIS DEPARTURE. 26
CHAPTER III.
MIMOSAS AND TAMARIND-TREES. — DIFFERENT SPECIES. — DURRA AND
CREEPING BEANS. — RELIGION OF THE ETHIOPIANS. — SECOND VISIT
OF LÀKONO. — THE CROWN-PRINCE TSHOBÈ. — PARTICULARS OF THE
COUNTRIES OF BARI AND BERRI. — DESCRIPTION OF LÀKONO’S
FAVOURITE SULTANA. — MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BARI: THEIR
FORM AND DISTANCE. — ISLAND OF TSHÀNKER. — REMARKS ON LÀKONO’S
LEGISLATION AND CONDUCT. — THE NJAM-NJAM, OR CANNIBALS. —
CUSTOMS AND ARMS OF THE NATIVES. — THE TROPICAL RAINS. 50
CHAPTER IV.
KING LÀKONO’S PRIDE. — BEER KNOWN TO THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. —
BAR OF ROCKS. — WAR-DANCE OF THE NATIVES. — DETERMINATION OF
THE TURKS TO RETURN, AND DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE AUTHOR. —
COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETURN VOYAGE. — REPUBLICANS IN THE KINGDOM
OF BARI. — VISIT OF THE FRENCHMEN TO MOUNT KORÈK. — REASON OF
THE AUTHOR’S AVERSION TO ARNAUD. — CONDUCT OF VAISSIÈRE, AND
SCENE IN HIS DIVAN. — CULTIVATION OF COTTON AT BARI. — APATHY
OF FEÏZULLA-CAPITAN AND THE CREW. — SUPERIORITY OF MAN TO WOMAN
IN A NATIVE STATE. — WATCH-HOUSES. 76
CHAPTER V.
RIVER BUFFALOES. — COMICAL APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. — WILLOWS.
— SPECIES OF STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OF THE WOMEN, AND THEIR
APRONS. — THE LIÈNNS. — ORNAMENTS OF THIS TRIBE: THEIR TOKULS.
— THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS. — ENORMOUS ELEPHANT’S
TOOTH. — LUXURIANCE OF THE SOIL. — THE COUNTRY OF BAMBER. —
DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. — MANNER OF CATCHING ELEPHANTS. —
ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER. — TRIBE OF THE BUKOS. —
STOICISM OF AN OLD NATIVE. — SLAVES. — HIPPOPOTAMI AND
CROCODILES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — THE ELLIÀBS AND BÒHRS. —
DESCRIPTION OF THE FORMER TRIBE: THEIR WAR-DANCE. 102
CHAPTER VI.
EXAMINATION OF AN ARM OF THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE BANKS. —
PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND FOR A LIVE HIPPOPOTAMUS. — THESE
ANIMALS RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE LIÈNNS. — ROPES MADE
FROM THE LEAVES OF THE DOME-PALM. — UÈKA. — CHARACTER AND
DESCRIPTION OF THE LIÈNNS. — THE EMEDDI-TREE. — DÖBKER-TREE.
— COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — TRIBES OF THE BODSHOS AND
KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OF THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER WITH THE
KARBORÀHS: THEIR DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — MOUNT NERKANJIN.
— ISLAND OF TUI. — THE KOKIS. — CONTEST WITH HIPPOPOTAMI. —
CROCODILES’ EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIÈRRS TO THE ELLIÀBS.
— EBONY CLUBS. — THE BÒHRS: THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. —
ANT-HILLS. — “IRG-EL-MOJE” OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES OF
VEGETABLE. — VETCHES. — THE ANDURÀB OR ENDERÀB-TREE. — THE
DAKUIN-TREE. — A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY
OF DUNG-FIRES. 133
CHAPTER VII.
THE BÒHR “JOI”: HIS TREATMENT ON BOARD THE VESSEL: HIS ESCAPE.
— WOMEN’S VILLAGE. — FELT CAPS. — SONGS OF THE BÒHRS. — TUBERS
SIMILAR TO POTATOES. — THE BUNDURIÀLS. — THE TUTUIS AND KÈKS.
— AN ELEPHANT ATTACKED AND KILLED. — TASTE OF THE FLESH OF THIS
ANIMAL. — CHEATING OF THE NATIVES IN BARTER. — WINTER TOKULS OR
WOMEN’S HUTS. — MANNER OF MAKING A BURMA OR COOKING-VESSEL. —
“BAUDA” AGAIN. — FEÏZULLA-CAPITAN’S INDUSTRY IN SEWING. — THE
KÈKS LIVE BY FISHING. — DESCRIPTION OF THE WOMEN. — SERIOUS
ACCIDENT TO THE VESSEL. — OSTRICHES AND APES. — FOGS ON THE
WHITE STREAM. — WATCH-TOWERS. — SALE SHOOTS A GIGANTIC CRANE:
IS PUNISHED. — THE NUÈHRS. 169
CHAPTER VIII.
NUÈHRS. — ORNAMENTS. — MANNERS OF THE WOMEN. — THE MEN. —
CURIOUS CUSTOM OF DRESSING THE HAIR, AND STAINING THEMSELVES.
— VISIT OF A CHIEF. — SPEARS USED INSTEAD OF KNIVES. —
SINGULAR WAY OF MAKING ATONEMENT, ETC. — WE HEAR ACCOUNTS OF
OUR BLACK DESERTERS. — BOWS AND QUIVERS SIMILAR TO THOSE
REPRESENTED IN THE HIEROGLYPHICS. — THE TURKS INDULGENT IN ONE
RESPECT. — MOUNT TICKEM OR MORRE. — TRACES OF ANIMAL-WORSHIP
AMONG THE NUÈHRS. — ARNAUD’S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF A LAKE (AND
GASCONADES). — ADVICE TO FUTURE TRAVELLERS ON THE WHITE NILE.
— SWALLOWS. — MEANS OF DEFENCE AGAINST GNATS DISCOVERED. — THE
SHILLUKS AGAIN. — QUESTION OF THE CONTINUAL ALTERATIONS IN THE
APPEARANCE OF THE NILE. — GUINEA-FOWLS. — GIRAFFES. — BLACK
WASPS. — TURTLE-DOVES. — OUR AUTHOR CAUGHT IN A THORN-BUSH. —
FABLED LUXURIANCE OF THE PLANTS IN THE TROPICAL REGIONS. — VIEW
FROM A HILL. — MANNER OF CATCHING FISH AMONG THE NATIVES. — THE
SOBÀT RIVER. — THE INUNDATIONS OF THE NILE CONSIDERED. 203
CHAPTER IX.
ROYAL CRANES. — SCRUPLES OF FEÏZULLA-CAPITAN. — COMPOSITION OF
THE SHORES. — DESCRIPTION OF THE DHELLÈB-PALM AND ITS FRUIT. —
FORM OF EGYPTIAN PILLARS DERIVED FROM THIS TREE. — DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN EGYPTIAN AND GREEK ARCHITECTURE. — DESCRIPTION OF THE
SUNT-TREE. — DEATH OF AN ARABIAN SOLDIER. — VISIT OF A MEK OR
CHIEF. — DANGEROUS RENCONTRE WITH A LION ON SHORE. — PURSUIT OF
THIS BEAST BY THE AUTHOR AND SULIMAN KASHEF WITH HIS MEN. — FEAR
OF THE NATIVES AT THE TURKS. — PLUNDER OF THEIR TOKULS BY THE
CREW. — BREAD-CORN OF THE DINKAS. — ANTELOPE HUNT. — DIFFERENT
SPECIES OF THESE ANIMALS. — IMMENSE HERDS ON THE BANKS OF THE
WHITE NILE. — LIONS AGAIN. — BAD CONDITION OF THE VESSELS. 237
CHAPTER X.
VARIOUS SPECIES OF GRASSES. — FORMATION OF THE SHORES. —
WATER-FOWLS. — AN ANTELOPE OF THE TETE SPECIES, NOW AT BERLIN.
— STRATA OF THE SHORE. — THE SOBÀT RIVER: THE MAIN ROAD FOR THE
NATIVES FROM THE HIGHLANDS TO THE PLAINS. — OBSERVATIONS ON THE
COURSE OF THE NILE AND SOBÀT. — A THOUSAND ANTELOPES SEEN MOVING
TOGETHER! — WILD BUFFALOES, LIONS, AND HYÆNAS. — AFRICA, THE
CRADLE OF THE NEGRO RACE. — THE SHUDDER-EL-FAS: DESCRIPTION OF
THIS SHRUB. — ARNAUD’S CHARLATANRY. — OUR AUTHOR FEARED BY THE
FRENCHMEN. — ARNAUD AND SABATIER’S JOURNALS: THE MARVELLOUS
STORIES OF THE FORMER. — THIBAUT’S JEALOUSY. — VISIT OF A SHIEKH
OF THE SHILLUKS. — FEAR OF THE TURKS AT THESE PEOPLE. — SULIMAN
KASHEF PURSUED BY A LION. 257
CHAPTER XI.
THE SHILLUKS, A VITIATED PEOPLE. — CAUSE OF THE VIOLENT RAINS
IN INNER AFRICA. — REFUSAL OF THE SULTAN OF THE SHILLUKS TO
VISIT THE VESSELS. — DESCRIPTION OF A SPECIES OF GRASS. —
BARTER WITH THE SHILLUKS. — CONQUEST OF THEIR COUNTRY NOT
DIFFICULT. — FORM OF THEIR BOATS. — AMBAK RAFTS. — IRON RARELY
FOUND AMONG THE EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. — WORSHIP OF TREES BY THE
SHILLUKS: THEIR RELIGIOUS RITES. — STARS IN THE SOUTHERN REGIONS
OF AFRICA. — SHILLUK WOMEN: THEIR DRESS. — REFUSAL OF THE MEN TO
SELL THEIR ARMS. — THE BAGHÀRAS: THEIR DRESS, ETC. —
RE-APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND PARKS, AND MOUNT DEFAFAÙNGH. —
ASCENT OF THIS MOUNTAIN, AND FULL DESCRIPTION OF IT. — THE
DINKAS: THEIR LOVE FOR OLD CUSTOMS. — DESERTION OF TWO DINKA
SOLDIERS, AND REFUSAL OF THEIR COUNTRYMEN TO GIVE THEM UP. —
SHEIKHS SEIZED, AND DESERTERS RECOVERED. 280
CHAPTER XII.
LANDING IN THE TERRITORY OF THE BAGHÀRAS: DESCRIPTION OF THEM:
THEIR HOSTILITY TO THE DINKAS, AND MARAUDING EXCURSIONS INTO
THE COUNTRY OF THIS TRIBE. — CURIOUS POSITION IN WHICH THE
LATTER TRIBE STAND. — MOUNT N’JEMATI: EXAMINATION OF IT. — A
SHRUB-ACACIA. — APPEARANCE OF ELEPHANTS AND LIONS. — GEOLOGICAL
DESCRIPTION OF THE MOUNTAINS. — MONKEYS APPEAR AGAIN. — MOHAMMED
ALI UNDER THE FORM OF AN HIPPOPOTAMUS. — ISLAND OF ABU. — THE
HASSARIES. — A HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED BY SULIMAN KASHEF. — SHORES
OF THE NILE COMPARED TO THOSE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. — EL AES. —
THE KABBABISH ARABS. — HEDJASI. — THE MOUNTAIN GROUP OF ARASKOLL.
— CONDUCT OF SULIMAN KASHEF TO A SHIEKH AND ARABS. — BEST WAY TO
TREAT THE TURKS. — THE DOWNS: THEIR NATURE. — INTELLIGENCE OF
THE DEATH OF SOLIMAN EFFENDI AND VAISSIÈRE. — APPROACH TO
KHARTÙM. — ARRIVAL, AND MEETING OF OUR AUTHOR WITH HIS BROTHER.
— CONCLUSION. 309
EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES
OF THE
WHITE NILE.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
SLEEPING TOKULS OR BARNS. — CRUELTY AND LICENTIOUSNESS OF THE
TURKS. — ARNAUD AND SELIM CAPITAN’S FEAR OF THE NATIVES. —
NEGROES SHOT BY THE TURKS. — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. — RED
MEN. — ARNAUD’S MADNESS. — FEAR OF THE NEGROES AT FIRE-ARMS. —
VISIT OF A CHIEF AND HIS SON. — TOBACCO AND SHEEP. — MOUNT
KOREK. — NATION OF BARI. — VISIT OF THE BROTHER AND SON-IN-LAW
OF THE KING. — CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS.
20th January.—The vessels were towed further to the southward
by the Libàhn, whilst the commanders, and we Franks with them,
walked on the magnificent shore. The wind, with which, however, we
had previously sailed, although not quicker than the pace we walked
at on shore, freshened at ten o’clock, and we repaired again
on board the vessels. I had made a real forced march, and was at
last compelled to be carried, owing to increasing weakness. Little
villages and isolated tokuls stood in the beautiful woody country,
which is interspersed with solitary light spaces or corn-fields,
where, however, the short fine grass was withered. These tokuls are
elevated above the ground on stakes, and serve to protect the fruits,
or as sleeping-places for security against noxious animals or the
temporary damp of the soil. The natives dance, sing, and jump, slide
on their knees, sell or exchange their god (glass beads—Arabic,
sug-sug), amongst one another, and squat, but not by sitting
upright in the Turkish manner, and smoke their pipes. These pipes
have prettily-worked black clay bowls, with a tube of reeds, and a
long iron mouthpiece: even the tongs, to apply the charcoal to light
them, are not wanting. They are cheated in the most shameful manner
by the Turco-Arabian people; robbed of their weapons, and plundered
right and left. What am I to do? I am ill, and have lost my voice;
yet I try to prevent these outrages as far as I am able.
The so-called elephant-tree prevails here exclusively; and one of the
chief amusements this morning was to shoot down its fruit, in which
exploit Suliman Kashef distinguished himself as the best shot. The
shady trees, the prospect on the river, enlivened by the glittering
sails, the blue chain of mountains—it was a sight that did me
good, and refreshed my inmost soul. But all this was again clouded by
Turks. Is there another word for Turks? No: Turks,—_basta!_ A negro,
who came from the other side to swim over to us, got into the track
of the sailing vessels, and was drowned, although he might have been
easily picked up by two ships following us. The commanders had gone
on a-head, and I was behind with the Frenchmen; I was not able to
call, and therefore fired off my gun, in order, by signs, to induce
them to save him. Arnaud also, whose vessel was just bearing up,
might have easily prevented the death of the unfortunate creature
if he had given a hail to his reïs. He even blamed my impatience,
saying I was ill; and added, with the contemptuous tone, in which
the Arab pronounces his “Abit,” and the Turk his “kiàfr,”
“Why do the fellows swim about in the water?” Upon this I could
not forbear using hard words.
An Egyptian soldier, who, like some others of the libàhn, had
remained behind on shore to ransack the deserted tokuls, ran behind a
young naked girl, when I fortunately noticed the circumstance in our
walk. I hastened to Suliman Kashef, who was gallant enough to recall,
with a voice of command, the libertine from this his wicked purpose.
The Turkish character involuntarily shews itself on such occasions
as these; it goes against his grain to see an inferior enjoying any
pleasure. There was no merit, therefore, in Suliman’s conduct,
even had he warded off from us a Sicilian vespers. Thibaut had
had also a similar incident on board his vessel with the reïs,
who wanted to be too free with a young girl whom the former, during
this voyage, had purchased for a few glass beads,—I believe from
the Keks. This incident was also announced in due form by us; but
they laughed, and said, “Badèn” (afterwards), and Arnaud even
joined in this opinion.
At a quarter past ten o’clock, the north wind has completely
died away, and we tack about towards the west for a short tract,
when it becomes again so fresh, whilst the wind is S.W., that we
are able to sail slowly. To all appearance, unfortunately, our
vaunted voyage of discovery will soon have an end. Selim-Capitan is
frightened to a ludicrous degree; Arnaud cannot conceal his fear;
and Suliman Kashef, not being yet restored to health, is utterly
indifferent. I cannot refrain from considering an instant return as
a disgrace and as treachery both to the world and Mohammed Ali. On
the right an island, and the last of those two which we had on our
left still continues, and so we are somewhat free from the noise of
the people on the shore. Sale and Sate Mohammed are no longer seen
on land; they have perhaps become the victims of their passions,
although they were only to shoot for me a pair of turtle-doves.
We halt, for a time, on the left shore, where there is a large
village, partly scattered in the wood that skirts the river so
beautifully. At eleven o’clock we set out again, and our men drive
back the cattle from the island close to us, through the water to
the right shore, for their unfathomable throats appear at last to be
satiated. The clapping of hands, keeping time to the singing, above
which the “kih, kih” of the women is heard, accompanies us from
both sides. We cannot hear or see anything for the crowd and clatter,
especially myself, round whom all the beautiful world floats as in
a mist, and a jarring din sings in my ears, so that my writing,
inexorably necessary as it is, becomes exceedingly difficult. I
dared not close my eyes for fear of becoming completely confused. I
wanted to go to Selim Capitan, or rather to his interpreter, but
was not able to put the requisite questions and to note down the
answers. I continue to write mechanically, and cannot square my own
journal, when I try to revise the entries of the last few days;
for everything flickers before my eyes, and my memory is gone,
so that it all appears to me like a dream.
With a light north-east wind, which also assisted us yesterday,
we proceed S.S.W. It is noon, and we have two islands, lying close
to each other, on our left. A large island ends on our right,
and another one begins, by which the course in the middle of the
river is, in some degree, confined. Nevertheless, the river always
retains a considerable breadth, and a proper depth; and then,—will
the poltroons return? The mountain, already several times mentioned,
peeps into the window from the west; it shews itself as two mountains
lying one close to the other, the western of which rises conically,
and has an obtuse peak, and an undulating tail to the west. The latter
appears somewhat wooded, yet these masses giving light and shade may
be mostly blocks; the conically ascending mountain, on the contrary,
has a smooth surface, and may be an extinguished volcano, although
one would not expect to find such here. We now find, for the first
time, stones in the river, and they are granite and gneiss. They
are not yet rounded; the chain of mountains from whence they come
cannot, therefore, be very far distant. We proceed S.S.W. An island
terminates on the left, and another follows at the distance of some
hundred paces.
Four o’clock. S.W. An occurrence has just happened, which might be
the death of us all if anything were to be feared from the revenge of
these evidently good-natured people. We were on the right side of the
river, and went to the left, where the little sandal was towed not
far from us by the Libàhn. Natives had stationed themselves here in
large and small groups; they greeted us, held up their hands, pointed
to their necks for beads, and sang, danced, and jumped. There was no
end of laughing in our vessel; I was attentive to what was going on,
and saw that the natives had seized the rope of the sandal, and would
not let it be towed further, for they wanted beads. Probably the crew
of the sandal had taken weapons or ornaments from them, without giving
anything in return, as this frequently happened. We steered close
to the left shore to assist our men, when eight bold armed figures
advanced towards us, and gave us to understand by pantomimic signs,
that we had presented beads to their neighbours below, but would not
give them anything. They offered the rings on their arms, and their
weapons, and signified to us, as we were advancing libàhn, on account
of the faintness of the wind, that they would not allow us to tow any
further unless we gave them something. They said all this, however,
with a laughing countenance, jumped about, and laughed anew. It
was plain they were only in jest; but our bloodthirsty fellows,
seeing no danger in this small number of men, and never thinking of
the probable consequences, just like the Turks, considered this an
excellent opportunity to display their courage. They seized their
weapons. I was unwell, but yet was standing on deck, and kept order
as well as my weak voice would allow me. I went from one to the
other, and enjoined them not to fire, until arrows were first shot
at them. The black soldiers, who were mostly recruits, I admonished
especially not to be _filles de joie_ (the usual expression here
applied to those who exhibit fear in discharging their guns), but
men (rigàl, sing. ragel), to grasp the gun firmly, and to take good
aim. Our blacks are generally very much afraid of the report of guns,
and do exactly as the Greeks did at the commencement of their war for
freedom; they lay the butt-end on the thigh, and fire at random. On
the White River, also, the report of these unknown weapons was more
feared than the real danger itself. They listened to me; but then
came the vessel of Captain Mohammed Agà, a fool-hardy Arnaut, who
is always trying to distinguish himself in some way or another. He
shouted to the sandal to cut away the rope, although the men were
still on land. This was about to be done, when the tallest negro,
who had twisted the rope round a little tree, pointed his bow at the
sailor who was about to cut it through with his knife. He laughed
at the same time, and it was clear that he was not in earnest;
for he had wrestled in a friendly manner with the other sailors,
when they tried to get the rope from him, without making use of his
weapons. Yet the Arnaut commanded them to “fire,” whilst he had
already aimed at the incautious native, being the first to discharge
his piece. In a moment all three vessels fired away, as though they
were beset by the devil. I was only able to pull back a couple of
fellows whose guns had flashed in the pan. Eleven or twelve other
victims followed the first, who was knocked over by the captain’s
shot. Those who went away wounded were not counted. An old woman
was shot down by an Egyptian standing near me, and yet he boasted of
this heroic deed, as did all the others of theirs. There might have
been from twenty-five to thirty natives collected together at that
place, scarcely thirty paces from us, and the high-standing straw
might have concealed several more.
We sailed away with the wind favouring our criminal action, for
our men had again come on board before the firing commenced. The
Dahabiës sailing ahead of us must have heard our shots; they did
not however furl _one_ sail to lend us assistance, which might
have been eventually necessary. Before we caught up these vessels,
we saw a woman on the shore, looking about among the dead men,
and then afterwards running to the city at some distance from the
shore. The natives were hastening towards it, but they did not
trust themselves near us. Yet they knew not the melancholy truth
that our shots would hit at a distance; hitherto they feared only
the thunder and lightning of them, as we had seen several times. We
halted a moment; the unhappy creatures or relatives of the slain came
closer to the border of the shore, laid their hands flat together,
raised them above their head, slid upon their knees nearer to us, and
sprang again high in the air, with their compressed hands stretched
aloft, as if to invoke the pity of heaven, and to implore mercy of
us. A slim young man was so conspicuous by his passionate grief,
that it cut to my heart, and—our barbarians laughed with all
their might. This unbounded attachment to one another, and the
circumstance that that woman, in spite of the danger so close at
hand, sought for the man of her heart among those who had perished,
affected me exceedingly, because such moral intrinsic worth, flowing
from pure natural hearts, is unfortunately more acquired than innate
in civilised nations. We had only advanced a little on our way,
and above thirty unarmed natives, who must yet at all events have
been informed of the tragical incident that had just occurred, sat
down on the sand directly close to the river, without suspicion,
or designing any harm to us, as if nothing had taken place, and
really—I had enough to do to prevent their being shot at.
We reached the vessels of the commanders, and Mohammed Agà was the
first to hasten to them, in order to report the incident. But I also
drew near, and there was a kind of court martial summoned. Arnaud
did honour to the European name, and took the part of the Turks,
who looked upon the whole as a trifle. Finally, the Arnaut, who
had already confessed the fact, faced about boldly and swift as
lightning, declaring that he had never fired a shot, and that he
would bring witnesses to prove it, and—here the matter ended. Selim
Capitan thought he shewed his wish to keep up a good understanding
with the natives, by throwing into the grass on the shore some
miserable bits of glass paste, with a cup. The natives looked and
groped about, whilst we sailed to the neighbouring island. Here we
found two divisions of negroes, whose chiefs were also presented
with strings of beads. Again we threw beads among the grass, and
ordered the whole occurrence to be explained by the interpreters;
more beads, and—every one jumped forward delighted. One of these
chiefs had all his naked body streaked over with ochre: he looked
like the black huntsman of Bohemia. They are said to do this in
particular when they marry; we have seen already several such red
men; even the hair and the ivory bracelets which are thick and of a
hand’s breadth, as well as the numerous iron rings on the wrists
and ankles, are coloured red in this fashion. Rage and vexation,
together with the heat of the sun, compelled me to be carried back
quite exhausted down the shore to the vessel.
Thibaut and Sabatier disclosed to me, as usual, their vexation at
Arnaud’s assuming conduct, and how they are cut up and calumniated
in his journal, which they secretly read, without being able to call
him to account for it at the moment. So likewise I am obliged to
listen to the loud lamentations of his servant Mustaphà, a Maltese
renegade, who always ends with “Credo che sia mezzo matto quest
gran signore o baron fututto.” Although he looks very fierce,
yet he cannot renounce his nature as a tailor, and is continually
asking me whether we are in any danger and begs me, for the holy
Madonna’s sake, to take care that we return as speedily as possible,
for he would rather a thousand times live with his devil of a wife,
than venture again so far among the heathens. Arnaud is jealous
at Suliman Kashef having purchased a young girl with his beads,
and by the assistance of Duschoïl, the interpreter, prettier than
his little sailor’s trull, whom he has hung with glass beads from
head to foot. In a fit of madness he writes a long French letter to
the Kashef, summoning him to restore the girl immediately, although
we are already a long way from her people. Thibaut translates the
letter, and looks as if he had fallen from the clouds, for he is in
the very same boat with Arnaud himself, respecting the purchase of
a girl, that he is going to make a living present to his black Sara,
whom he brought back from England to Khartùm. After the letter was
read aloud, a rude burst of laughter naturally ensued, and Suliman
Kashef said when it was finished, in a pitying tone of voice, “El
shems, el shems!” (the sun, the sun.) Certainly it is not the first
time that the African sun has produced such an effect on Arnaud;
he suffers like all of us, and his arrogance and pride shake him
more violently, because they find opposition on every side.
_21st January._ I this morning felt myself uncommonly well but had
scarcely stepped out of the door to go ashore, when the stream of
light—I know not what other name to give it—rushed upon me
with such force, and penetrated, as it were, through me, that I
was scarcely able to sink back on my bed; and it is only now, when,
however, the sun is at its height, that I feel myself at all capable
of writing. We have remained since early this morning, in a southerly
direction. The sails have been twice hoisted, but on the average we
are towed by the rope. We leave an island on our right. There are
several red skins among the negroes, who are really handsome men;
the tokuls, standing singly, are large, well roofed, and, resting
upon strong stakes, open on all sides. The stakes form a peristyle,
and the inner wall is smeared inside with clay; perhaps they serve
as stables for cattle, and summer tokuls. A small gohr, or river,
in the neighbourhood of which we repose at noon, comes merrily in
from the right shore, and the stream has a noble breadth, but little
depth of water.
Two o’clock, S.W. We have a slight north wind, and an island on
our right; behind it, the forest continues on the shore. The high
mountainous district beyond it is still blue, for the day is not
clear. It appears, indeed, partly covered with wood, and to form a
chain with the other mountains. The information we possess about
this region is still very scanty, and it would be difficult to
make any thing out of the interpreters, even if my head were less
affected. Groups of a hundred and fifty to two hundred negroes are
standing together on all sides; they generally accompany us a short
way, without uniting themselves to the next swarm. This perhaps arises
more from accident than for the purpose of keeping their boundary
stations on the water, to prevent falling together by the ears,
whilst watering their herds, and on other occasions. Islands impede
our course, and the crew see, to their terror, a number of natives,
holding their weapons aloft, wade through the river from one side to
the other. We immediately take possession of a little islet in the
middle of the river, and surround it with our vessels; a regular
military position, for it is surrounded with deeper water. It is
about a hundred paces long from north to south, and from five to
six broad, and the shores fall away steeply to the river.
Feïzulla Capitan disembarks, and returns soon from Selim Capitan,
with the melancholy intelligence that there is “moje mafish,”
(no water). I was completely in despair, left the vessel, and set
off to the top of the islet, where Turks and Franks were assembled
for further consultation. The black people found on it were driven
away by us; they jumped into the water like frogs, so that we heard
a simultaneous fearful splash. They soon stood on the more shallow
ground, and shouted their huzza, “Hui, ii hui iih!” laughed and
joked, and offered their valuables, &c. We let some of the negroes
come on the islet, and gave them presents of beads. About evening
a large herd of cows appeared on the right shore; they were lean,
possibly having been long in want of fresh grass. The men, armed
with spears, bows, and arrows, drove the herds from the right to
the left shore, where we likewise remarked a herd of cattle. Our
gentlemen were horribly afraid when the people accumulated like a
black swarm of bees on all sides.
It was a lucky circumstance that a large bird of prey perched on the
mast, to take a view aloft of the flesh under him. All eyes were
directed to us and this bird, when Suliman Kashef seized his long
gun; the blacks watched us closely, jostled each other, and were on
tenter-hooks of anxiety, for they did not know what it meant. Suliman
Kashef fired; the report set them in momentary fear, and they were
about to run away, when the sight of the bird falling into the water,
noted them, as it were, to the ground. When, however, other birds
of prey flew down on the water, to see what fate had befallen their
feathered friend, the “Hui, ii hui iih,” immediately came to a
close; they ran as fast as they could, for this appeared too much for
them to stand, having seen no arrow or stone flying at the bird. This
single shot might be of importance at this moment, when the people
generally, though at a distance, might have shewn a bad feeling;
moreover the incident was of inestimable value to the expedition,
because it infused the feeling of our superiority, and even enhanced
it, in their dismayed hearts. If I had previously strained every
nerve to prevent the return already determined upon, and had got
the again-convalescent Kashef on my side, so now even the timorous
Selim Capitan was inclined to have the track more accurately examined.
_22nd January._—There was not a breath of wind, and it is still
undetermined whether we shall proceed further. I therefore proposed
to the Frenchmen, whose courage I could naturally have no doubt of,
to take out some of the freight from their vessel, which is lightly
built and convenient, and thus to press on further. They agreed to
this proposal. I described the country, and we were having breakfast
together, when intelligence was brought to us that it was decided to
go on. No sooner does Selim Capitan see the long-legged blacks going
to their cattle, swimming over to the right shore, than fear seizes
him anew; we, however, by our joint efforts, manage to remove it.
In the meanwhile, the chief of this country comes to us with his
grown-up son. A red cloth dress of honour is put on the old man;
a red chequered cotton handkerchief tied round his head; and glass
beads are hung round his neck. They also gave the son beads, and
bound a piece of calico round him like a napkin. It was plain to be
seen that they were delighted with these presents, and particularly
at the pleasure of conversing and communicating with us. The old
man’s name is _Nalewadtshòhn_, his son’s _Alumbèh_; but
their great _Mattà_ (king or lord, perhaps analogous to the title
of honour previously conferred on us, “_Màdam_,)” is called
Làkono. The latter is said to possess a beautiful red woollen dress,
of a different cut to the Abbaie, presented to Nalewadtshòhn. It must
be truly interesting to see here, all of a sudden, a negro king in an
English uniform, although it may only come from the Ethiopian sea,
or the Indian Ocean. Sultan Làkono dwells on Mount Pelenja, and
rules over a large country, called Bari, pronounced by the Turks,
however, without further ceremony, Beri. We are said to have been
within the limits of this kingdom for the last two days: those men
shot by us belonged also to Bari.
According to Nalewadtshòhn, who is in general very talkative,
and does not appear very favourably inclined towards his king,
all the mountains in the neighbourhood have abundance of iron;
and Mount Pelenja, a quantity of copper, which is here in great
estimation. Iron-ochre, which the natives here and there use to colour
themselves with, is said to be found on all sides, formed by them,
however, into balls: by this preparation, perhaps, a cleansing of
the material takes place. The high mountain-chain we had already
seen, lies to the west, at some hours’ distance, over the left
shore of the Nile. Its name is Niakanja, and the mountains before
us are called Korèk and Lubèhk, which are said to be followed by
many other higher mountains. Both the men are strikingly handsome,
although not one of the whole multitude can be called ugly. They
are tall and strongly built; have a nose, somewhat broad indeed,
but not flat; on the contrary, slightly raised, such as we see in
the heads of Rhamses; a full mouth, not at all like that of negroes,
but exactly the same as in the Egyptian statues; a broad arched
forehead, and a speaking, honest-looking eye. The latter is not,
as we have found generally in the marsh regions, entirely suffused
with blood, whereby the countenances have a dismal appearance, but
clear, full, and black, yet not dazzling. We observed that their
legs were well formed, though not muscular; their naked bodies
were adorned with the very same decorations of ivory and iron as we
had seen in the others. The name of the village on the right side
of the river is Baràko; the village lying immediately opposite,
under the trees, before which are a small island and pastures,
is called Niowàh. Alumbèh was sent as our envoy to King Làkono.
We leave our island at noon, and have a larger island on our right,
a smaller one on the left, and tow to the south, accompanied by
the negroes in the water: they even come with their long bodies to
the side of the vessel, and part with every thing they have for the
beloved sug-sug.
At Asser (three o’clock in the afternoon), S.S.W., with oars and
sails. A village, on the right side of the river, contains only
a few tokuls; but a large herd of cattle, grazing there, sets our
crew longing again. About sun-set, S. I procure a beautiful spear
for a single glass bead—silly, childish people! Immediately after
sun-set, W.S.W. On the left a small island; a gohr, or arm of a
river, appearing to form a large island, pours forth from thence,
if it be not a tributary stream. The wood before us contrasts by its
dark hue with the coloured horizon, over which, as yet, no alpine
country glows. On the right shore stand a number of armed and laughing
negroes, in picturesque positions; this has been the case the whole
time, both in the water and on land. They walk arm-in-arm, quite in
a brotherly manner, or with their arms round one another’s necks,
as the students in Germany used to do in my time. They help each
other in getting up on shore, and have frequently one foot placed
firmly against the knee, standing like cranes. They lean on their
spears, or long bows, or squat down; but I see none of them sitting
or lying on the ground, according to the lazy custom of the orientals.
The north wind is so faint that we are obliged to lend assistance
with poles; the river has more water, thank God, than we thought;
and even our reïs, whom a longing fit for his wives every now and
then seizes, believes that this water-course will hold on for some
time. We anchor in the middle of the river, and the guards are doubled
in the vessels. I am tired of this constant variety of sensations,
and yet would like to see and hear much more. My head is so heavy
and stupid, that I cannot accept Suliman Kashef’s invitation.
_23rd January._—Half-past eight o’clock. We have gone so far
in a southerly direction by the rope, and we move S. by W. and
S.W. The rapidity of the river has increased from one mile and a
half to two miles. The walk on shore has tired me more, because I
was followed by the natives, with all their effects, and retarded,
so that I was obliged to break a road through them, half by violence,
though I am still very weak in my legs. I purchased for a couple of
miserable beads a little sheep, covered partly with wool, and partly
with hair, as the sheep here generally are, and having a long mane
under the throat, and horns twisted back. Selim Capitan says that
a similar species is found in Crete.
Tobacco is called here also tabac, as mostly on the White River. The
Arabs give it the name of dogàhn; this is the small-leaved sort, with
dun-coloured flowers, which is cultivated likewise in Bellet Sudàn. I
have not seen the tobacco-plant growing wild here; therefore, I cannot
say whether the name of tobacco is indigenous here with the plant,
or has been introduced by immigrants. Nevertheless, the Arabs are not
generally smokers, and it is unlikely that tobacco was brought in by
them; and it is less probable, because, had it been so, it would have
kept the name of dogàhn. In Sennaar, however, a good but very strong
tobacco has been cultivated for ages, and was probably introduced by
the Funghs, who are likewise a well-formed negro race. Our usual title
of honour is matta, which they, however, only give to the whites. The
shores are very extensively intersected with layers of sand.
Ten o’clock. S. by E., and then S.W. Two villages on the right
shore. We sail with a slight north wind, but scarcely make one mile,
for the current is considerably against us. We meet continually with
some fire-eaters among the blacks on the shore; they are startled,
certainly, at the report, but are not particularly frightened,
especially if it be not close to their ears. We have Mount Korèk in
a south-westerly direction before us. It stands like the Niakanja,
to which we have only come within the distance of from three to
four hours, and which lies behind us, isolated from the other
mountains. The summit appears flat from where we are; it has many
indentations, and seems to rise only about six hundred feet above
its broad basis, to which the ground ascends from the river. The wind
having nearly ceased for half an hour, freshens again for three miles.
At noon. S.S.W. In a quarter of an hour, a gohr or arm of the Nile
comes from S. by E.; we make only two miles more, and the wind
deserts us again; we lie, therefore, as if stuck to the place,
after having been thrown by the current on to the island, formed
by the before-named arm on the right shore. But the wind soon
freshens again; we sail away cheerfully. The ships drive one against
the other, or upon the sand, but work themselves loose again; the
negroes come in the water; confusion here—confusion everywhere. A
herd of calves stop in the water before us; this is really tempting,
but we sail on. The log gives four miles, from which two miles must
be deducted for the rapidity of the current, though the reïs can
not understand this.
At half-past twelve o’clock, the end of the island; we sail S.S.E.,
and then S. by W. On the right shore a large durra-field, apparently
the second crop on the very same stalks. The natives there, according
to the custom of this country, have little stools to sit on, and a
small gourd drinking-cup by their side. As before, part of them are
unarmed, and have merely a long stick, with forks or horns at the
top, in their hands. The covering of the head is various. Several
have differently formed little wicker baskets on their heads, as a
protection against the sun. They wear strings of the teeth of dogs
or apes on various parts of the body, but mostly on the neck, as an
ornament or talisman. They have bracelets, the points of which being
covered with bits of fur, are curved outwards like little horns. Our
envoy Alumbèh imitated all the motions and the voice of an ox, in
order to make us understand the meaning of these bracelets. These,
as well as the forks on their houses and sticks, appear to denote in
some way a kind of symbolic veneration for the bull, whose horns I
had previously seen adorned with animals’ tails; for the bull is
bold, and the support of the family among the herds.
One o’clock. A number of negroes are squatting on the island at
the left, or rather are sitting on their stools, and wondering at us
sailing so merrily to S.S.W. I count eleven villages; but I do not
trust myself on deck, for we have 30° Reaumur. About evening the
whole scene will appear more surprising and pleasing to me; for even
my servants, looking in exultingly at the window, praise the beauty
of the country. On all sides, therefore, plenty of mountains, stones,
and rocks; the great buildings in the interior of Africa are no longer
a fable to me! If the nation of Bari has had internal strength enough
to pursue the road of cultivation for thousands of years, what has
prevented it not only from rising from its natural state, but also
from appropriating to itself the higher European cultivation? It has
a stream, navigable, and bringing fertility, full of eatable animals;
a magnificent land affording it everything: it has to sustain war
with the gigantic monsters of the land and water, and to combat with
its own kind; it possesses the best of all metals, iron, from which
it understands how to form very handsome weapons sought for far and
near; it knows how to cultivate its fields; and I saw several times
how the young tobacco plants were moistened with water, and protected
from the sun by a roof of shrubs. The men of nature it contains are
tall, and enjoying all bodily advantages; yet—it has only arrived
at this grade of cultivation. If the perfectibility of nature be so
confined, this truly susceptible people only requires an external
intellectual impetus to regenerate the mythic fame of the Ethiopians.
The hygrometer seems to have got out of order through Arnaud’s
clumsy handling, for it yesterday morning shewed 82°, notwithstanding
the air is far drier and clearer than this height of the hygrometer
would shew. Half-past ten o’clock. We are driven on the sand, and
there we stop to wait for the other vessels. Alas! the beautiful
wind! Two o’clock. We sail on southwards. On the right two
islands. Selim Capitan is said to have the Sultan’s brother
on board his vessel; we are making every exertion, therefore, to
overtake him. The commander no sooner remarks this than he halts at
the nearest island. I repaired immediately to his vessel, and found
two relations of King Làkono on board. Half-past two o’clock. We
leave the island and the previous direction of S.S.W., and approach
the right shore of the river E.S.E. On the right a gohr, or arm of
the Nile, appears to come from S.W., and indeed from Mount Korèk,
or Korèg, as the word is also pronounced.
The two distinguished guests sit upon their stools, which they
brought with them, with their own royal hands, in naked innocence,
and smoke their pipes quite delighted. An arm of the river leaves
on the left hand the main stream to the north, and may be connected
with a gohr previously seen. A village stands above the arm of the
river on the right shore of our stream, and an island is immediately
under it before the gohr itself. The name of the village is Ullibari,
and the arm Beregènn. It is said to flow down a very great distance
before it again joins the White Stream. The latter winds here to the
south; to the right we perceive a village on the left shore, called
Igàh. On the right shore we remark several villages, and those
summer huts, or rekùbas, already mentioned. All the tokuls have
higher-pointed roofs, of a tent-like form. The country generally,
in the neighbourhood of the residence of the great Negro-King,
appears very populous. The north wind is favourable. The black
princes look at the sails, and seem to understand the thing, although
the whole must appear colossal to them in comparison with their
surtuks, as we perceive from their mutually drawing each other’s
attention to them. The king’s brother, whose name is Nikelò, has
a friendly-looking countenance; and his handsome Roman-like head,
with the tolerably long curled hair, is encircled with a strip of
fur instead of the laurel. On the right he wears a yellow copper,
on the left a red copper bracelet. The latter might have been easily
taken for an alloy of gold, although the noble man did not know the
gold which was shewn him as being of higher value, but distinguished
that it was a different metal. Silver he did not know at all. These
mountains being rich in metals, must afford very interesting results
with respect to the precious metals. The other guest is called Tombé:
he is the son-in-law of the king; stronger and taller than Nikelò,
and always cheerful.
We landed soon afterwards on the right shore, as the nearest
landing-place to the capital, Belènja, on the mountain of the
same name, which was at some distance. They gave us the names of
all the mountains lying around in the horizon. The river flows here
from S.S.W., or rather the right shore has this direction. To N. by
W. Mount Nerkonji, previously mentioned as Niakanja, long seen by
us; to W. by S., Mount Konnobih; behind it, in the far distance, the
mountain-chain of Kugelù; to S.W., the rocky mountain, Korek; behind
which the before-named mountain-chain still extends, and is lost in
misty heights. These do not appear, indeed, to be of much greater
height; but on a more accurate observation, I distinguished a thin
veil, apparently sunk upon them, clearer than the western horizon, and
the blue of the mountain forms vanishing from Kugelù to the south. As
I once looked for the alpine world from Montpellier, and found it,
trusting to my good eye-sight, so now I gazed for a long time on this
region of heights; their peaks were clearly hung round with a girdle
of clouds, apparently shining with a glimmering light in opposition
to the clouds hanging before them in our neighbourhood. When I
view the long undulating chain of Kugelù, distant at all events,
taking into consideration the clear atmosphere, more than twenty hours
behind Konnobih (some twelve hours off), the highest summit of which,
west by south, without losing its horizontal ridge, disappears first
evidently in the west, and is completely veiled behind Korèk lying
nearer over south-west, I conceive that this Kugelù well deserves
the name of a chain of mountains, even if we only take the enormous
angle of the parallax at twenty hours’ distance.
These mountains lie, to all external appearance, upon the left side
of the river, and Nikelò also confirms this. On the right side of
the Nile, we see the low double rocks of Lùluli to S.S.E., and a
little further to S.E. by S., the two low mountains or hills of
Liènajihn and Konnofih lying together. To S.E. Mount Korrejih,
and then lastly to E. the mountain chain of Belenjà, rising up
in several peaks to a tolerable height, but apparently scarcely
elevated more than 1000 feet above the Nile. Far towards S., over
the Lobèk, I remarked from here several other misty mountains,
the names of which I would have willingly learned, for I feared,
and with justice, that they would be invisible in advancing nearer
under the prominences of these African Alps. The royal gentlemen,
however, with whom we stood on an old river bed of six feet high, were
restless, and in a great hurry to take home their presents of a red
coat and glass beads. The city is like all other villages, but large:
the king’s palace consists of several straw tokuls lying together,
encompassed as usual with a seriba; this also Nalewadtshòn had told
us. The Ethiopian palaces, therefore, have not much to boast of;
it is sufficient if the men in them be pleased and happy, and not
oppressed by the cares of government and want of sustenance. The
durra was also here, as I had remarked in other places, either cut
away, or cropped before it became ripe by the cattle; no matter,—it
sprouted a second time, and promised a good harvest, though only as
yet about seven feet high. I had seen it thrice as high in Taka,
without the people thinking even of cutting it down or mowing
it. Selim Capitan dares not trust the natives; we went, therefore,
ashore at the island close at hand, fixed stakes in the ground,
and tied the vessels fast to them.