LETTER XXXII

NICE, March 10, 1765.

DEAR SIR,--The Colossaeum or amphitheatre built by Flavius Vespasian,

is the most stupendous work of the kind which antiquity can produce.

Near one half of the external circuit still remains, consisting of four

tire of arcades, adorned with columns of four orders, Doric, Ionic,

Corinthian, and Composite. The height and extent of it may be guessed

from the number of spectators it contained, amounting to one hundred

thousand; and yet, according to Fontana's mensuration, it could not

contain above thirty-four thousand persons sitting, allowing a foot and

an half for each person: for the circuit of the whole building did not

exceed one thousand five hundred and sixty feet. The amphitheatre at

Verona is one thousand two hundred and ninety feet in circumference;

and that of Nismes, one thousand and eighty. The Colossaeum was built

by Vespasian, who employed thirty thousand Jewish slaves in the work;

but finished and dedicated by his son Titus, who, on the first day of

its being opened, produced fifty thousand wild beasts, which were all

killed in the arena. The Romans were undoubtedly a barbarous people,

who delighted in horrible spectacles. They viewed with pleasure the

dead bodies of criminals dragged through the streets, or thrown down

the Scalae Gemoniae and Tarpeian rock, for their contemplation. Their

rostra were generally adorned with the heads of some remarkable

citizens, like Temple-Bar, at London. They even bore the sight of

Tully's head fixed upon that very rostrum where he had so often

ravished their ears with all the charms of eloquence, in pleading the

cause of innocence and public virtue. They took delight in seeing their

fellow-creatures torn in pieces by wild beasts, in the amphitheatre.

They shouted with applause when they saw a poor dwarf or slave killed

by his adversary; but their transports were altogether extravagant,

when the devoted captives were obliged to fight in troops, till one

side was entirely butchered by the other. Nero produced four hundred

senators, and six hundred of the equestrian order, as gladiators in the

public arena: even the women fought with wild beasts, as well as with

each other, and drenched the amphitheatres with their blood. Tacitus

says, "Sed faeminarum illustrium, senatorumque filiorum plures per

arenam faedati sunt," "But many sons of Senators, and even Matrons of

the first Rank, exposed themselves in this vile exercise." The

execrable custom of sacrificing captives or slaves at the tombs of

their masters and great men, which is still preserved among the negroes

of Africa, obtained also among the antients, Greeks as well as Romans.

I could never, without horror and indignation, read that passage in the

twenty-third book of the Iliad, which describes twelve valiant Trojan

captives sacrificed by the inhuman Achilles at the tomb of his friend

Patroclus.

Dodeka men Troon megathumon uias eathlous

Tous ama pantas pur eathiei.

Twelve generous Trojans slaughtered in their Bloom,

With thy lov'd Corse the Fire shall now consume.

Even Virgil makes his pious Hero sacrifice eight Italian youths to the

manes of Pallas. It is not at all clear to me, that a people is the

more brave, the more they are accustomed to bloodshed in their public

entertainments. True bravery is not savage but humane. Some of this

sanguinary spirit is inherited by the inhabitants of a certain island

that shall be nameless--but, mum for that. You will naturally suppose

that the Coliseo was ruined by the barbarians who sacked the city of

Rome: in effect, they robbed it of its ornaments and valuable

materials; but it was reserved for the Goths and Vandals of modern

Rome, to dismantle the edifice, and reduce it to its present ruinous

condition. One part of it was demolished by pope Paul II. that he might

employ the stones of it in building the palace of St. Mark. It was

afterwards dilapidated for the same purposes, by the cardinals Riarius

and Farnese, which last assumed the tiara under the name of Paul III.

Notwithstanding these injuries, there is enough standing to convey a

very sublime idea of ancient magnificence.

The Circi and Naumachia, if considered as buildings and artificial

basins, are admirable; but if examined as areae intended for horse and

chariot races, and artificial seas for exhibiting naval engagements,

they seem to prove that the antient Romans were but indifferently

skilled and exercised either in horsemanship or naval armaments. The

inclosure of the emperor Caracalla's circus is still standing, and

scarce affords breathing room for an English hunter. The Circus

Maximus, by far the largest in Rome, was not so long as the Mall; and I

will venture to affirm, that St. James's Park would make a much more

ample and convenient scene for those diversions. I imagine an old Roman

would be very much surprised to see an English race on the course at

New-Market. The Circus Maximus was but three hundred yards in breadth.

A good part of this was taken up by the spina, or middle space, adorned

with temples, statues, and two great obelisks; as well as by the

euripus, or canal, made by order of Julius Caesar, to contain

crocodiles, and other aquatic animals, which were killed occasionally.

This was so large, that Heliogabalus, having filled it with excellent

wine, exhibited naval engagements in it, for the amusement of the

people. It surrounded three sides of the square, so that the whole

extent of the race did not much exceed an English mile; and when Probus

was at the expence of filling the plain of it with fir-trees to form a

wood for the chace of wild beasts, I question much if this forest was

more extensive than the plantation in St. James's Park, on the south

side of the canal: now I leave you to judge what ridicule a king of

England would incur by converting this part of the park into a chace

for any species of animals which are counted game in our country.

The Roman emperors seemed more disposed to elevate and surprize, than

to conduct the public diversions according to the rules of reason and

propriety. One would imagine, it was with this view they instituted

their naumachia, or naval engagements, performed by half a dozen small

gallies of a side in an artificial basin of fresh water. These gallies

I suppose were not so large as common fishing-smacks, for they were

moved by two, three, and four oars of a side according to their

different rates, biremes, triremes, and quadriremes. I know this is a

knotty point not yet determined; and that some antiquarians believe the

Roman gallies had different tires or decks of oars; but this is a

notion very ill supported, and quite contrary to all the figures of

them that are preserved on antient coins and medals. Suetonius in the

reign of Domitian, speaking of these naumachia, says, "Edidit navales

pugnas, pene justarum classium, effosso, et circumducto juxta Tyberim

lacu, atque inter maximas imbres prospectavit," "He exhibited naval

engagements of almost intire fleets, in an artificial Lake formed for

the purpose hard by the Tyber, and viewed them in the midst of

excessive Rains." This artificial lake was not larger than the piece of

water in Hyde-Park; and yet the historian says, it was almost large

enough for real or intire fleets. How would a British sailor relish an

advertisement that a mock engagement between two squadrons of men of

war would be exhibited on such a day in the Serpentine river? or that

the ships of the line taken from the enemy would be carried in

procession from Hyde-Park-Corner to Tower-wharf? Certain it is,

Lucullus, in one of his triumphs, had one hundred and ten ships of war

(naves longas) carried through the streets of Rome. Nothing can give a

more contemptible idea of their naval power, than this testimony of

their historians, who declare that their seamen or mariners were formed

by exercising small row-boats in an inclosed pool of fresh water. Had

they not the sea within a few miles of them, and the river Tyber

running through their capital! even this would have been much more

proper for exercising their watermen, than a pond of still-water, not

much larger than a cold-bath. I do believe in my conscience that half a

dozen English frigates would have been able to defeat both the

contending fleets at the famous battle of Actium, which has been so

much celebrated in the annals of antiquity, as an event that decided

the fate of empire.

It would employ me a whole month to describe the thermae or baths, the

vast ruins of which are still to be seen within the walls of Rome, like

the remains of so many separate citadels. The thermae Dioclesianae

might be termed an august academy for the use and instruction of the

Roman people. The pinacotheca of this building was a complete musaeum

of all the curiosities of art and nature; and there were public schools

for all the sciences. If I may judge by my eye, however, the thermae

Antonianae built by Caracalla, were still more extensive and

magnificent; they contained cells sufficient for two thousand three

hundred persons to bathe at one time, without being seen by one

another. They were adorned with all the charms of painting,

architecture, and sculpture. The pipes for convoying the water were of

silver. Many of the lavacra were of precious marble, illuminated by

lamps of chrystal. Among the statues, were found the famous Toro, and

Hercole Farnese.

Bathing was certainly necessary to health and cleanliness in a hot

country like Italy, especially before the use of linen was known: but

these purposes would have been much better answered by plunging into

the Tyber, than by using the warm bath in the thermae, which became

altogether a point of luxury borrowed from the effeminate Asiatics, and

tended to debilitate the fibres already too much relaxed by the heat of

the climate. True it is, they had baths of cool water for the summer:

but in general they used it milk-warm, and often perfumed: they

likewise indulged in vapour-baths, in order to enjoy a pleasing

relaxation, which they likewise improved with odoriferous ointments.

The thermae consisted of a great variety of parts and conveniences; the

natationes, or swimming places; the portici, where people amused

themselves in walking, conversing, and disputing together, as Cicero

says, In porticibus deambulantes disputabant; the basilicae, where the

bathers assembled, before they entered, and after they came out of the

bath; the atria, or ample courts, adorned with noble colonnades of

Numidian marble and oriental granite; the ephibia, where the young men

inured themselves to wrestling and other exercises; the frigidaria, or

places kept cool by a constant draught of air, promoted by the

disposition and number of the windows; the calidaria, where the water

was warmed for the baths; the platanones, or delightful groves of

sycamore; the stadia, for the performances of the athletae; the

exedrae, or resting-places, provided with seats for those that were

weary; the palestrae, where every one chose that exercise which pleased

him best; the gymnasia, where poets, orators, and philosophers recited

their works, and harangued for diversion; the eleotesia, where the

fragrant oils and ointments were kept for the use of the bathers; and

the conisteria, where the wrestlers were smeared with sand before they

engaged. Of the thermae in Rome, some were mercenary, and some opened

gratis. Marcus Agrippa, when he was edile, opened one hundred and

seventy private baths, for the use of the people. In the public baths,

where money was taken, each person paid a quadrans, about the value of

our halfpenny, as Juvenal observes,

Caedere Sylvano porcum, quadrante lavari.

The victim Pig to God Sylvanus slay,

And for the public Bath a farthing pay.

But after the hour of bathing was past, it sometimes cost a great deal

more, according to Martial,

Balnea post decimam, lasso centumque petuntur

Quadrantes--

The bathing hour is past, the waiter tir'd;

An hundred Farthings now will be requir'd.

Though there was no distinction in the places between the first

patrician and the lowest plebeian, yet the nobility used their own

silver and gold plate, for washing, eating, and drinking in the bath,

together with towels of the finest linen. They likewise made use of the

instrument called strigil, which was a kind of flesh-brush; a custom to

which Persius alludes in this line,

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