NICE, January 15, 1765.
DEAR SIR,--It is not without reason that Genoa is called La superba.
The city itself is very stately; and the nobles are very proud. Some
few of them may be proud of their wealth: but, in general, their
fortunes are very small. My friend Mr. R-- assured me that many Genoese
noblemen had fortunes of half a million of livres per annum: but the
truth is, the whole revenue of the state does not exceed this sum; and
the livre of Genoa is but about nine pence sterling. There are about
half a dozen of their nobles who have ten thousand a year: but the
majority have not above a twentieth part of that sum. They live with
great parsimony in their families; and wear nothing but black in
public; so that their expences are but small. If a Genoese nobleman
gives an entertainment once a quarter, he is said to live upon the
fragments all the rest of the year. I was told that one of them lately
treated his friends, and left the entertainment to the care of his son,
who ordered a dish of fish that cost a zechine, which is equal to about
ten shillings sterling. The old gentleman no sooner saw it appear on
the table, than unable to suppress his concern, he burst into tears,
and exclaimed, Ah Figliuolo indegno! Siamo in Rovina! Siamo in
precipizio! Ah, Prodigal! ruined! undone!
I think the pride or ostentation of the Italians in general takes a
more laudable turn than that of other nations. A Frenchman lays out his
whole revenue upon tawdry suits of cloaths, or in furnishing a
magnificent repas of fifty or a hundred dishes, one half of which are
not eatable nor intended to be eaten. His wardrobe goes to the fripier;
his dishes to the dogs, and himself to the devil, and after his decease
no vestige of him remains. A Genoese, on the other hand, keeps himself
and his family at short allowance, that he may save money to build
palaces and churches, which remain to after-ages so many monuments of
his taste, piety, and munificence; and in the mean time give employment
and bread to the poor and industrious. There are some Genoese nobles
who have each five or six elegant palaces magnificently furnished,
either in the city, or in different parts of the Riviera. The two
streets called Strada Balbi and Strada Nuova, are continued double
ranges of palaces adorned with gardens and fountains: but their being
painted on the outside has, in my opinion, a poor effect.
The commerce of this city is, at present, not very considerable; yet it
has the face of business. The streets are crowded with people; the
shops are well furnished; and the markets abound with all sorts of
excellent provision. The wine made in this neighbourhood is, however,
very indifferent; and all that is consumed must be bought at the public
cantine, where it is sold for the benefit of the state. Their bread is
the whitest and the best I have tasted any where; and the beef, which
they have from Piedmont, is juicy and delicious. The expence of eating
in Italy is nearly the same as in France, about three shillings a head
for every meal. The state of Genoa is very poor, and their bank of St.
George has received such rude shocks, first from the revolt of the
Corsicans, and afterwards from the misfortunes of the city, when it was
taken by the Austrians in the war of 1745, that it still continues to
languish without any near prospect of its credit being restored.
Nothing shews the weakness of their state, more than their having
recourse to the assistance of France to put a stop to the progress of
Paoli in Corsica; for after all that has been said of the gallantry and
courage of Paoli and his islanders, I am very credibly informed that
they might be very easily suppressed, if the Genoese had either vigour
in the council or resolution in the field.
True it is, they made a noble effort in expelling the Austrians who had
taken possession of their city; but this effort was the effect of
oppression and despair, and if I may believe the insinuations of some
politicians in this part of the world, the Genoese would not have
succeeded in that attempt, if they had not previously purchased with a
large sum of money the connivance of the only person who could defeat
the enterprize. For my own part, I can scarce entertain thoughts so
prejudicial to the character of human nature, as to suppose a man
capable of sacrificing to such a consideration, the duty he owed his
prince, as well as all regard to the lives of his soldiers, even those
who lay sick in hospitals, and who, being dragged forth, were miserably
butchered by the furious populace. There is one more presumption of his
innocence, he still retains the favour of his sovereign, who could not
well be supposed to share in the booty. "There are mysteries in
politics which were never dreamed of in our philosophy, Horatio!" The
possession of Genoa might have proved a troublesome bone of contention,
which it might be convenient to lose by accident. Certain it is, when
the Austrians returned after their expulsion, in order to retake the
city, the engineer, being questioned by the general, declared he would
take the place in fifteen days, on pain of losing his head; and in four
days after this declaration the Austrians retired. This anecdote I
learned from a worthy gentleman of this country, who had it from the
engineer's own mouth. Perhaps it was the will of heaven. You see how
favourably, providence has interposed in behalf of the reigning empress
of Russia, first in removing her husband: secondly in ordaining the
assassination of prince Ivan, for which the perpetrators have been so
liberally rewarded; it even seems determined to shorten the life of her
own son, the only surviving rival from whom she had any thing to fear.
The Genoese have now thrown themselves into the arms of France for
protection: I know not whether it would not have been a greater mark of
sagacity to cultivate the friendship of England, with which they carry
on an advantageous commerce. While the English are masters of the
Mediterranean, they will always have it in their power to do incredible
damage all along the Riviera, to ruin the Genoese trade by sea, and
even to annoy the capital; for notwithstanding all the pains they have
taken to fortify the mole and the city, I am greatly deceived if it is
not still exposed to the danger, not only of a bombardment, but even of
a cannonade. I am even sanguine enough to think a resolute commander
might, with a strong squadron, sail directly into the harbour, without
sustaining much damage, notwithstanding all the cannon of the place,
which are said to amount to near five hundred. I have seen a cannonade
of above four hundred pieces of artillery, besides bombs and cohorns,
maintained for many hours, without doing much mischief.
During the last siege of Genoa, the French auxiliaries were obliged to
wait at Monaco, until a gale of wind had driven the English squadron
off the coast, and then they went along shore in small vessels at the
imminent risque of being taken by the British cruisers. By land I
apprehend their march would be altogether impracticable, if the king of
Sardinia had any interest to oppose it. He might either guard the
passes, or break up the road in twenty different places, so as to
render it altogether impassable. Here it may not be amiss to observe,
that when Don Philip advanced from Nice with his army to Genoa, he was
obliged to march so close to the shore, that in above fifty different
places, the English ships might have rendered the road altogether
impassable. The path, which runs generally along the face of a
precipice washed by the sea, is so narrow that two men on horseback can
hardly pass each other; and the road itself so rugged, slippery, and
dangerous, that the troopers were obliged to dismount, and lead their
horses one by one. On the other hand, baron de Leutrum, who was at the
head of a large body of Piedmontese troops, had it in his power to
block up the passes of the mountains, and even to destroy this road in
such a manner, that the enemy could not possibly advance. Why these
precautions were not taken, I do not pretend to explain: neither can I
tell you wherefore the prince of Monaco, who is a subject and partizan
of France, was indulged with a neutrality for his town, which served as
a refreshing-place, a safe port, and an intermediate post for the
French succours sent from Marseilles to Genoa. This I will only venture
to affirm, that the success and advantage of great alliances are often
sacrificed to low, partial, selfish, and sordid considerations. The
town of Monaco is commanded by every heighth in its neighbourhood; and
might be laid in ashes by a bomb-ketch in four hours by sea.
I was fortunate enough to be recommended to a lady in Genoa, who
treated us with great politeness and hospitality. She introduced me to
an abbate, a man of letters, whose conversation was extremely
agreeable. He already knew me by reputation, and offered to make me
known to some of the first persons in the republic, with whom he lived
in intimacy. The lady is one of the most intelligent and best-bred
persons I have known in any country. We assisted at her conversazione,
which was numerous. She pressed us to pass the winter at Genoa; and
indeed I was almost persuaded: but I had attachments at Nice, from
which I could not easily disengage myself.
The few days we staved at Genoa were employed in visiting the most
remarkable churches and palaces. In some of the churches, particularly
that of the Annunciata, I found a profusion of ornaments, which had
more magnificence than taste. There is a great number of pictures; but
very few of them are capital pieces. I had heard much of the ponte
Carignano, which did not at all answer my expectation. It is a bridge
that unites two eminences which form the higher part of the city, and
the houses in the bottom below do not rise so high as the springing of
its arches. There is nothing at all curious in its construction, nor
any way remarkable, except the heighth of the piers from which the
arches are sprung. Hard by the bridge there is an elegant church, from
the top of which you have a very rich and extensive prospect of the
city, the sea and the adjacent country, which looks like a continent of
groves and villas. The only remarkable circumstance about the
cathedral, which is Gothic and gloomy, is the chapel where the
pretended bones of John the Baptist are deposited, and in which thirty
silver lamps are continually burning. I had a curiosity to see the
palaces of Durazzo and Doria, but it required more trouble to procure
admission than I was willing to give myself: as for the arsenal, and
the rostrum of an ancient galley which was found by accident in
dragging the harbour, I postponed seeing them till my return.
Having here provided myself with letters of credit for Florence and
Rome, I hired the same boat which had brought us hither, to carry us
forward to Lerici, which is a small town about half way between Genoa
and Leghorn, where travellers, who are tired of the sea, take
post-chaises to continue their route by land to Pisa and Florence. I
payed three loui'dores for this voyage of about fifty miles; though I
might have had a feluca for less money. When you land on the wharf at
Genoa, you are plied by the feluca men just as you are plied by the
watermen at Hungerford-stairs in London. They are always ready to set
off at a minute's warning for Lerici, Leghorn, Nice, Antibes,
Marseilles, and every part of the Riviera.
The wind being still unfavourable, though the weather was delightful,
we rowed along shore, passing by several pretty towns, villages, and a
vast number of cassines, or little white houses, scattered among woods
of olive-trees, that cover the hills; and these are the habitations of
the velvet and damask weavers. Turning Capo Fino we entered a bay,
where stand the towns of Porto Fino, Lavagna, and Sestri di Levante, at
which last we took up our night's lodging. The house was tolerable, and
we had no great reason to complain of the beds: but, the weather being
hot, there was a very offensive smell, which proceeded from some skins
of beasts new killed, that were spread to dry on an outhouse in the
yard. Our landlord was a butcher, and had very much the looks of an
assassin. His wife was a great masculine virago, who had all the air of
having frequented the slaughter-house. Instead of being welcomed with
looks of complaisance, we were admitted with a sort of gloomy
condescension, which seemed to say, "We don't much like your company;
but, however, you shall have a night's lodging in favour of the patron
of the gondola, who is our acquaintance." In short, we had a very bad
supper, miserably dressed, passed a very disagreeable night, and payed
a very extravagant bill in the morning, without being thanked for our
custom. I was very glad to get out of the house with my throat uncut.
Sestri di Levante is a little town pleasantly situated on the seaside;
but has not the conveniency of a harbour. The fish taken here is mostly
carried to Genoa. This is likewise the market for their oil, and the
paste called macaroni, of which they make a good quantity.
Next day, we skirted a very barren coast, consisting of almost
perpendicular rocks, on the faces of which, however, we saw many
peasants' houses and hanging terraces for vines, made by dint of
incredible labour. In the afternoon, we entered by the Porti di Venere
into the bay, or gulf of Spetia or Spezza, which was the Portus Lunae
of the ancients. This bay, at the mouth of which lies the island
Palmaria, forms a most noble and secure harbour, capacious enough to
contain all the navies in Christendom. The entrance on one side is
defended by a small fort built above the town of Porto Venere, which is
a very poor place. Farther in there is a battery of about twenty guns;
and on the right hand, opposite to Porto Venere, is a block-house,
founded on a rock in the sea. At the bottom of the bay is the town of
Spetia on the left, and on the right that of Lerici, defended by a
castle of very little strength or consequence. The whole bay is
surrounded with plantations of olives and oranges, and makes a very
delightful appearance. In case of a war, this would be an admirable
station for a British squadron, as it lies so near Genoa and Leghorn;
and has a double entrance, by means of which the cruisers could sail in
and out continually, which way soever the wind might chance to sit. I
am sure the fortifications would give very little disturbance.
At the post-house in Lerici, the accommodation is intolerable. We were
almost poisoned at supper. I found the place where I was to lie so
close and confined, that I could not breathe in it, and therefore lay
all night in an outward room upon four chairs, with a leather
portmanteau for my pillow. For this entertainment I payed very near a
loui'dore. Such bad accommodation is the less excusable, as the fellow
has a great deal of business, this being a great thoroughfare for
travellers going into Italy, or returning from thence.
I might have saved some money by prosecuting my voyage directly by sea
to Leghorn: but, by this time, we were all heartily tired of the water,
the business then was to travel by land to Florence, by the way of
Pisa, which is seven posts distant from Lerici. Those who have not
their own carriage must either hire chaises to perform the whole
journey, or travel by way of cambiatura, which is that of changing the
chaises every post, as the custom is in England. In this case the great
inconvenience arises from your being obliged to shift your baggage
every post. The chaise or calesse of this country, is a wretched
machine with two wheels, as uneasy as a common cart, being indeed no
other than what we should call in England a very ill-contrived
one-horse chair, narrow, naked, shattered and shabby. For this vehicle
and two horses you pay at the rate of eight paoli a stage, or four
shillings sterling; and the postilion expects two paoli for his
gratification: so that every eight miles cost about five shillings, and
four only, if you travel in your own carriage, as in that case you pay
no more than at the rate of three paoli a horse.
About three miles from Lerici, we crossed the Magra, which appeared as
a rivulet almost dry, and in half a mile farther arrived at Sarzana, a
small town at the extremity of the Genoese territories, where we
changed horses. Then entering the principalities of Massa and Carrara,
belonging to the duke of Modena, we passed Lavenza, which seems to be a
decayed fort with a small garrison, and dined at Massa, which is an
agreeable little town, where the old dutchess of Modena resides.
Notwithstanding all the expedition we could make, it was dark before we
passed the Cerchio, which is an inconsiderable stream in the
neighbourhood of Pisa, where we arrived about eight in the evening.
The country from Sarzana to the frontiers of Tuscany is a narrow plain,
bounded on the right by the sea, and on the left by the Apennine
mountains. It is well cultivated and inclosed, consisting of
meadow-ground, corn fields, plantations of olives; and the trees that
form the hedge-rows serve as so many props to the vines, which are
twisted round them, and continued from one to another. After entering
the dominions of Tuscany, we travelled through a noble forest of
oak-trees of a considerable extent, which would have appeared much more
agreeable, had we not been benighted and apprehensive of robbers. The
last post but one in this days journey, is at the little town of
Viareggio, a kind of sea-port on the Mediterranean, belonging to Lucia.
The roads are indifferent, and the accommodation is execrable. I was
glad to find myself housed in a very good inn at Pisa, where I promised
myself a good night's rest, and was not disappointed. I heartily wish
you the same pleasure, and am very sincerely--Yours.