NICE, January 1, 1765.
DEAR SIR,--It was in deference to your opinion, reinforced by my own
inclination, and the repeated advice of other friends, that I resolved
upon my late excursion to Italy. I could plainly perceive from the
anxious solicitude, and pressing exhortations contained in all the
letters I had lately received from my correspondents in Britain, that
you had all despaired of my recovery. You advised me to make a
pilgrimage among the Alps, and the advice was good. In scrambling among
those mountains, I should have benefited by the exercise, and at the
same time have breathed a cool, pure, salubrious air, which, in all
probability, would have expelled the slow fever arising in a great
measure from the heat of this climate. But, I wanted a companion and
fellow traveller, whose conversation and society could alleviate the
horrors of solitude. Besides, I was not strong enough to encounter the
want of conveniences, and even of necessaries to which I must have been
exposed in the course of such an expedition. My worthy friend Dr. A--
earnestly intreated me to try the effect of a sea-voyage, which you
know has been found of wonderful efficacy in consumptive cases. After
some deliberation, I resolved upon the scheme, which I have now happily
executed. I had a most eager curiosity to see the antiquities of
Florence and Rome: I longed impatiently to view those wonderful
edifices, statues, and pictures, which I had so often admired in prints
and descriptions. I felt an enthusiastic ardor to tread that very
classical ground which had been the scene of so many great
atchievements; and I could not bear the thought of returning to England
from the very skirts of Italy, without having penetrated to the capital
of that renowned country. With regard to my health, I knew I could
manage matters so as to enjoy all the benefits that could be expected
from the united energy of a voyage by sea, a journey by land, and a
change of climate.
Rome is betwixt four and five hundred miles distant from Nice, and one
half of the way I was resolved to travel by water. Indeed there is no
other way of going from hence to Genoa, unless you take a mule, and
clamber along the mountains at the rate of two miles an hour, and at
the risque of breaking your neck every minute. The Apennine mountains,
which are no other than a continuation of the maritime Alps, form an
almost continued precipice from Villefranche to Lerici, which is almost
forty-five miles on the other side of Genoa; and as they are generally
washed by the sea, there is no beach or shore, consequently the road is
carried along the face of the rocks, except at certain small intervals,
which are occupied by towns and villages. But, as there is a road for
mules and foot passengers, it might certainly be enlarged and improved
so as to render it practicable by chaises and other wheel-carriages,
and a toll might be exacted, which in a little time would defray the
expence: for certainly no person who travels to Italy, from England,
Holland, France, or Spain, would make a troublesome circuit to pass the
Alps by the way of Savoy and Piedmont, if he could have the convenience
of going post by the way of Aix, Antibes, and Nice, along the side of
the Mediterranean, and through the Riviera of Genoa, which from the sea
affords the most agreeable and amazing prospect I ever beheld. What
pity it is, they cannot restore the celebrated Via Aurelia, mentioned
in the Itinerarium of Antoninus, which extended from Rome by the way of
Genoa, and through this country as far as Arles upon the Rhone. It was
said to have been made by the emperor Marcus Aurelius; and some of the
vestiges of it are still to be seen in Provence. The truth is, the
nobility of Genoa, who are all merchants, from a low, selfish, and
absurd policy, take all methods to keep their subjects of the Riviera
in poverty and dependence. With this view, they carefully avoid all
steps towards rendering that country accessible by land; and at the
same time discourage their trade by sea, lest it should interfere with
the commerce of their capital, in which they themselves are personally
concerned.
Those who either will not or cannot bear the sea, and are equally
averse to riding, may be carried in a common chair, provided with a
foot-board, on men's shoulders: this is the way of travelling practised
by the ladies of Nice, in crossing the mountains to Turin; but it is
very tedious and expensive, as the men must be often relieved.
The most agreeable carriage from here to Genoa, is a feluca, or open
boat, rowed by ten or twelve stout mariners. Though none of these boats
belong to Nice, they are to be found every day in our harbour, waiting
for a fare to Genoa; and they are seen passing and repassing
continually, with merchandize or passengers, between Marseilles,
Antibes, and the Genoese territories. A feluca is large enough to take
in a post-chaise; and there is a tilt over the stern sheets, where the
passengers sit, to protect them from the rain: between the seats one
person may lie commodiously upon a mattress, which is commonly supplied
by the patron. A man in good health may put up with any thing; but I
would advise every valetudinarian who travels this way, to provide his
own chaise, mattrass, and bedlinnen, otherwise he will pass his time
very uncomfortably. If you go as a simple passenger in a feluca, you
pay about a loui'dore for your place, and you must be intirely under
the direction of the patron, who, while he can bear the sea, will
prosecute his voyage by night as well as by day, and expose you to many
other inconveniencies: but for eight zequines, or four loui'dores, you
can have a whole feluca to yourself, from Nice to Genoa, and the master
shall be obliged to put a-shore every evening. If you would have it
still more at your command, you may hire it at so much per day, and in
that case, go on shore as often, and stay as long as you please. This
is the method I should take, were I to make the voyage again; for I am
persuaded I should find it very near as cheap, and much more agreeable
than any other.
The distance between this place and Genoa, when measured on the carte,
does not exceed ninety miles: but the people of the felucas insist upon
its being one hundred and twenty. If they creep along shore round the
bottoms of all the bays, this computation may be true: but, except when
the sea is rough, they stretch directly from one head-land to another,
and even when the wind is contrary, provided the gale is not fresh,
they perform the voyage in two days and a half, by dint of rowing: when
the wind is favourable, they will sail it easily in fourteen hours.
A man who has nothing but expedition in view, may go with the courier,
who has always a light boat well manned, and will be glad to
accommodate a traveller for a reasonable gratification. I know an
English gentleman who always travels with the courier in Italy, both by
sea and land. In posting by land, he is always sure of having part of a
good calash, and the best horses that can be found; and as the expence
of both is defrayed by the public, it costs him nothing but a present
to his companion, which does not amount to one fourth part of the
expence he would incur by travelling alone. These opportunities may be
had every week in all the towns of Italy.
For my own part, I hired a gondola from hence to Genoa. This is a boat
smaller than a feluca, rowed by four men, and steered by the patron;
but the price was nine zequines, rather more than I should have payed
for a feluca of ten oars. I was assured that being very light, it would
make great way; and the master was particularly recommended to me, as
an honest man and an able mariner. I was accompanied in this voyage by
my wife and Miss C--, together with one Mr. R--, a native of Nice, whom
I treated with the jaunt, in hopes that as he was acquainted with the
customs of the country, and the different ways of travelling in it, he
would save us much trouble, and some expence: but I was much
disappointed. Some persons at Nice offered to lay wagers that he would
return by himself from Italy; but they were also disappointed.
We embarked in the beginning of September, attended by one servant. The
heats, which render travelling dangerous in Italy, begin to abate at
this season. The weather was extremely agreeable; and if I had
postponed my voyage a little longer, I foresaw that I should not be
able to return before winter: in which case I might have found the sea
too rough, and the weather too cold for a voyage of one hundred and
thirty-five miles in an open boat.
Having therefore provided myself with a proper pass, signed and sealed
by our consul, as well as with letters of recommendation from him to
the English consuls at Genoa and Leghorn, a precaution which I would
advise all travellers to take, in case of meeting with accidents on the
road, we went on board about ten in the morning, stopped about half an
hour at a friend's country-house in the bay of St. Hospice, and about
noon entered the harbour of Monaco, where the patron was obliged to pay
toll, according to the regulation which I have explained in a former
letter. This small town, containing about eight or nine hundred souls,
besides the garrison, is built on a rock which projects into the sea,
and makes a very romantic appearance. The prince's palace stands in the
most conspicuous part, with a walk of trees before it. The apartments
are elegantly furnished, and adorned with some good pictures. The
fortifications are in good repair, and the place is garrisoned by two
French battalions. The present prince of Monaco is a Frenchman, son of
the duke Matignon who married the heiress of Monaco, whose name was
Grimaldi. The harbour is well sheltered from the wind; but has not
water sufficient to admit vessels of any great burthen. Towards the
north, the king of Sardinia's territories extend to within a mile of
the gate; but the prince of Monaco can go upon his own ground along
shore about five or six miles to the eastward, as far as Menton,
another small town, which also belongs to him, and is situated on the
seaside. His revenues are computed at a million of French livres,
amounting to something more than forty thousand pounds sterling: but,
the principality of Monaco, consisting of three small towns, and an
inconsiderable tract of barren rock, is not worth above seven thousand
a year; the rest arises from his French estate. This consists partly of
the dutchy of Matignon, and partly of the dutchy of Valentinois, which
last was given to the ancestors of this prince of Monaco, in the year
1640, by the French king, to make up the loss of some lands in the
kingdom of Naples, which were confiscated when he expelled the Spanish
garrison from Monaco, and threw himself into the arms of France: so
that he is duke of Valentinois as well as of Matignon, in that kingdom.
He lives almost constantly in France; and has taken the name and arms
of Grimaldi.
The Genoese territories begin at Ventimiglia, another town lying on the
coast, at the distance of twenty miles from Nice, a circumstance from
which it borrows the name. Having passed the towns of Monaco, Menton,
Ventimiglia, and several other places of less consequence that lie
along this coast, we turned the point of St. Martin with a favourable
breeze, and might have proceeded twenty miles further before night: but
the women began to be sick, as well as afraid at the roughness of the
water; Mr. R-- was so discomposed, that he privately desired the patron
to put ashore at St. Remo, on pretence that we should not find a
tolerable auberge in any other place between this and Noli, which was
at the distance of forty miles. We accordingly landed, and were
conducted to the poste, which our gondeliere assured us was the best
auberge in the whole Riviera of Genoa. We ascended by a dark, narrow,
steep stair, into a kind of public room, with a long table and benches,
so dirty and miserable, that it would disgrace the worst hedge
ale-house in England. Not a soul appeared to receive us. This is a
ceremony one must not expect to meet with in France; far less in Italy.
Our patron going into the kitchen, asked a servant if the company could
have lodging in the house; and was answered, "he could not tell: the
patron was not at home." When he desired to know where the patron was,
the other answered, "he was gone to take the air." E andato a
passeggiare. In the mean time, we were obliged to sit in the common
room among watermen and muleteers. At length the landlord arrived, and
gave us to understand, that he could accommodate us with chambers. In
that where I lay, there was just room for two beds, without curtains or
bedstead, an old rotten table covered with dried figs, and a couple of
crazy chairs. The walls had been once white-washed: but were now hung
with cobwebs, and speckled with dirt of all sorts; and I believe the
brick-floor had not been swept for half a century. We supped in an
outward room suitable in all respects to the chamber, and fared
villainously. The provision was very ill-dressed, and served up in the
most slovenly manner. You must not expect cleanliness or conveniency of
any kind in this country. For this accommodation I payed as much as if
I had been elegantly entertained in the best auberge of France or Italy.
Next day, the wind was so high that we could not prosecute our voyage,
so that we were obliged to pass other four and twenty hours in this
comfortable situation. Luckily Mr. R-- found two acquaintances in the
place; one a Franciscan monk, a jolly fellow; and the other a maestro
di capella, who sent a spinnet to the inn, and entertained us agreeably
with his voice and performance, in both of which accomplishments he
excelled. The padre was very good humoured, and favoured us with a
letter of recommendation to a friend of his, a professor in the
university of Pisa. You would laugh to see the hyperbolical terms in
which he mentioned your humble servant; but Italy is the native country
of hyperbole.
St. Remo is a pretty considerable town, well-built upon the declivity
of a gently rising hill, and has a harbour capable of receiving small
vessels, a good number of which are built upon the beach: but ships of
any burden are obliged to anchor in the bay, which is far from being
secure. The people of St. Remo form a small republic, which is subject
to Genoa.
They enjoyed particular privileges, till the year 1753, when in
consequence of a new gabelle upon salt, they revolted: but this effort
in behalf of liberty did not succeed. They were soon reduced by the
Genoese, who deprived them of all their privileges, and built a fort by
the sea-side, which serves the double purpose of defending the harbour
and over-awing the town. The garrison at present does not exceed two
hundred men. The inhabitants are said to have lately sent a deputation
to Ratisbon, to crave the protection of the diet of the empire. There
is very little plain ground in this neighbourhood; but the hills are
covered with oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and olives, which produce a
considerable traffic in fine fruit and excellent oil. The women of St.
Remo are much more handsome and better tempered than those of Provence.
They have in general good eyes, with open ingenuous countenances. Their
dress, though remarkable, I cannot describe: but upon the whole, they
put me in mind of some portraits I have seen, representing the females
of Georgia and Mingrelia.
On the third day, the wind being abated, though still unfavourable, we
reimbarked and rowed along shore, passing by Porto-mauricio, and
Oneglia; then turning the promontory called Capo di Melle, we proceeded
by Albenga, Finale, and many other places of inferior note.
Portomauricio is seated on a rock washed by the sea, but indifferently
fortified, with an inconsiderable harbour, which none but very small
vessels can enter. About two miles to the eastward is Oneglia, a small
town with fortifications, lying along the open beach, and belonging to
the king of Sardinia. This small territory abounds with olive-trees,
which produce a considerable quantity of oil, counted the best of the
whole Riviera. Albenga is a small town, the see of a bishop, suffragan
to the archbishop of Genoa. It lies upon the sea, and the country
produces a great quantity of hemp. Finale is the capital of a
marquisate belonging to the Genoese, which has been the source of much
trouble to the republic; and indeed was the sole cause of their rupture
with the king of Sardinia and the house of Austria in the year 1745.
The town is pretty well built; but the harbour is shallow, open, and
unsafe; nevertheless, they built a good number of tartans and other
vessels on the beach and the neighbouring country abounds with oil and
fruit, particularly with those excellent apples called pomi carli,
which I have mentioned in a former letter.
In the evening we reached the Capo di Noli, counted very dangerous in
blowing weather. It is a very high perpendicular rock or mountain
washed by the sea, which has eaten into it in divers places, so as to
form a great number of caverns. It extends about a couple of miles, and
in some parts is indented into little creeks or bays, where there is a
narrow margin of sandy beach between it and the water. When the wind is
high, no feluca will attempt to pass it; even in a moderate breeze, the
waves dashing against the rocks and caverns, which echo with the sound,
make such an awful noise, and at the same time occasion such a rough
sea, as one cannot hear, and see, and feel, without a secret horror.
On this side of the Cape, there is a beautiful strand cultivated like a
garden; the plantations extend to the very tops of the hills,
interspersed with villages, castles, churches, and villas. Indeed the
whole Riviera is ornamented in the same manner, except in such places
as admit of no building nor cultivation.
Having passed the Cape, we followed the winding of the coast, into a
small bay, and arrived at the town of Noli, where we proposed to pass
the night. You will be surprised that we did not go ashore sooner, in
order to take some refreshment; but the truth is, we had a provision of
ham, tongues, roasted pullets, cheese, bread, wine, and fruit, in the
feluca, where we every day enjoyed a slight repast about one or two
o'clock in the afternoon. This I mention as a necessary piece of
information to those who may be inclined to follow the same route. We
likewise found it convenient to lay in store of l'eau de vie, or
brandy, for the use of the rowers, who always expect to share your
comforts. On a meagre day, however, those ragamuffins will rather die
of hunger than suffer the least morsel of flesh-meat to enter their
mouths. I have frequently tried the experiment, by pressing them to eat
something gras, on a Friday or Saturday: but they always declined it
with marks of abhorrence, crying, Dio me ne libere! God deliver me from
it! or some other words to that effect. I moreover observed, that not
one of those fellows ever swore an oath, or spoke an indecent word.
They would by no means put to sea, of a morning, before they had heard
mass; and when the wind was unfavourable, they always set out with a
hymn to the Blessed Virgin, or St. Elmo, keeping time with their oars
as they sung. I have indeed remarked all over this country, that a man
who transgresses the institutions of the church in these small matters,
is much more infamous than one who has committed the most flagrant
crimes against nature and morality. A murderer, adulterer, or s--m--te,
will obtain easy absolution from the church, and even find favour with
society; but a man who eats a pidgeon on a Saturday, without express
licence, is avoided and abhorred, as a monster of reprobation. I have
conversed with several intelligent persons on the subject; and have
reason to believe, that a delinquent of this sort is considered as a
luke-warm catholic, little better than a heretic; and of all crimes
they look upon heresy as the most damnable.
Noli is a small republic of fishermen subject to Genoa; but very
tenacious of their privileges. The town stands on the beach, tolerably
well built, defended by a castle situated on a rock above it; and the
harbour is of little consequence. The auberge was such as made us
regret even the inn we had left at St. Remo. After a very odd kind of
supper, which I cannot pretend to describe, we retired to our repose:
but I had not been in bed five minutes, when I felt something crawling
on different parts of my body, and taking a light to examine, perceived
above a dozen large bugs. You must know I have the same kind of
antipathy to these vermin, that some persons have to a cat or breast of
veal. I started up immediately, and wrapping myself in a great coat,
sick as I was, laid down in the outer room upon a chest, where I
continued till morning.
One would imagine that in a mountainous country like this, there should
be plenty of goats; and indeed, we saw many flocks of them feeding
among the rocks, yet we could not procure half a pint of milk for our
tea, if we had given the weight of it in gold. The people here have no
idea of using milk, and when you ask them for it, they stand gaping
with a foolish face of surprise, which is exceedingly provoking. It is
amazing that instinct does not teach the peasants to feed their
children with goat's milk, so much more nourishing and agreeable than
the wretched sustenance on which they live. Next day we rowed by Vado
and Savona, which last is a large town, with a strong citadel, and a
harbour, which was formerly capable of receiving large ships: but it
fell a sacrifice to the jealousy of the Genoese, who have partly
choaked it up, on pretence that it should not afford shelter to the
ships of war belonging to those states which might be at enmity with
the republic.
Then we passed Albifola, Sestri di Ponente, Novi, Voltri, and a great
number of villages, villas, and magnificent palaces belonging to the
Genoese nobility, which form almost a continued chain of buildings
along the strand for thirty miles.
About five in the afternoon, we skirted the fine suburbs of St. Pietro
d' Arena, and arrived at Genoa, which makes a dazzling appearance when
viewed from the sea, rising like an amphitheatre in a circular form
from the water's edge, a considerable way up the mountains, and
surrounded on the land side by a double wall, the most exterior of
which is said to extend fifteen miles in circuit. The first object that
strikes your eye at a distance, is a very elegant pharos, or
lighthouse, built on the projection of a rock on the west side of the
harbour, so very high, that, in a clear day, you may see it at the
distance of thirty miles. Turning the light-house point, you find
yourself close to the mole, which forms the harbour of Genoa. It is
built at a great expence from each side of the bay, so as to form in
the sea two long magnificent jettes. At the extremity of each is
another smaller lanthorn. These moles are both provided with
brass-cannon, and between them is the entrance into the harbour. But
this is still so wide as to admit a great sea, which, when the wind
blows hard from south and south-west, is very troublesome to the
shipping. Within the mole there is a smaller harbour or wet dock,
called Darsena, for the gallies of the republic. We passed through a
considerable number of ships and vessels lying at anchor, and landing
at the water-gate, repaired to an inn called La Croix de Malthe in the
neighbourhood of the harbour. Here we met with such good entertainment
as prepossessed us in favour of the interior parts of Italy, and
contributed with other motives to detain us some days in this city. But
I have detained you so long, that I believe you wish I may proceed no
farther; and therefore I take my leave for the present, being very
sincerely-- Yours.