_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W. Repeat.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—White.
[Illustration: Design No. 6.]
[Illustration: Design No. 7.]
_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—4 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W. Repeat.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 2 B, 3 W, 2 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—White.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—1 B, 1 W, Repeat.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.
_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.
Design No. 5.
For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 11.
_1st and 2nd Rounds._—White.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Black.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.
[Sidenote: Effective Patterns.]
_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.
_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat from
*.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—3 B, 1 W, 6 G, 1 W. Repeat.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 4 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat
from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 W, 1 G, 1 W, 2 B, 1 W, 2 G, 1 W, 2 B. Repeat.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 1 W, 2 B, 2 W, 2 B, 1 W. Repeat.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.
_21st and 22nd Rounds._—White.
Design No. 6.
For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 8.
_1st and 2nd Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—Black.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.
_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 G, * 2 W, 3 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 B, 3 W, 1 B, 3 G. Repeat from *.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—4 B, * 3 G, 5 B. Repeat from *.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—Black.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—4 B, 4 G. Repeat.
_21st and 22nd Rounds._—4 G, 4 B. Repeat.
Design No. 7.
Only two colours will be needed for this design, and the number of
stitches used must give a multiple of 8.
_1st and 2nd Rounds._—Black.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—Grey.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 4 B, 1 G. Repeat.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 4 G. Repeat
_9th and 10th Rounds._—1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 4 G. Repeat.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—7 B, 1 G. Repeat.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—3 G, 1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—3 G, 1 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—4 B, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G. Repeat.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—Grey.
_21st and 22nd Rounds._—Black.
Design No. 8.
This border works out a good deal wider than the others, and would
perhaps be more suitable for a man’s stocking; or to reduce the width
the stripes from each edge could be omitted. Stitches giving a multiple
of 8 will be required.
_1st and 2nd Rounds._—Black.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—White.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—Black.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—Grey.
_9th and 10th Rounds._—5 G, 3 B. Repeat.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—6 G, * 1 B, 7 G. Repeat from *.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 W, 7 G. Repeat from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 W, 5 G. Repeat from *.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 W, 4 G, Repeat.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—2 W, * 4 B, 1 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.
_21st and 22nd Rounds._—3 W, 5 G. Repeat.
_23rd and 24th Rounds._—1 G, * 3 W, 5 G. Repeat from *.
_25th and 26th Rounds._—2 G, * 1 W, 7 G. Repeat from *.
_27th and 28th Rounds._—6 G, * 1 B, 7 G. Repeat from *.
_29th and 30th Rounds._—5 G, 3 B. Repeat.
_31st and 32nd Rounds._—Grey.
_33rd and 34th Rounds._—Black.
_35th and 36th Rounds._—White.
_37th and 38th Rounds._—Black.
Making a Child’s Overall from a Narrow Skirt.
Good quality washing materials for making children’s everyday frocks
are now so very much more expensive than in pre-war days, that the
economical woman who happens to have a number of washing skirts of the
narrower type so popular a few years ago, would be wise to make some
good use of them.
While it is a comparatively simple matter for the woman who makes
her own clothes to remodel a full skirt into a narrow design quite
successfully, it is not so simple to adapt a narrow design to a wider
pattern. Even if one could match the material, it is never wise to use
new fabric with old, and the freshness of the new material would only
give emphasis to the fact that the other parts were slightly worn.
Here is a suggestion that may not have occurred to everyone. Have you
ever thought what really excellent little garments for the children can
be made from the best parts of a cotton skirt? As an example, we are
showing how the child’s overall illustrated can be cut from a two-piece
skirt of quite the narrowest type (this design only measures 1⅜ yards
round the hem) without even cutting into the parts that are likely to
be the most worn.
[Illustration: THE OVERALL THAT CAN BE CUT FROM A NARROW SKIRT.]
Whether the skirt used is made of linen, piqué, casement cloth, or
any of the stouter washing fabrics, it would serve admirably for
making this little frock that can either be worn as an overall over
another frock, or as a little summer play frock without another dress
underneath.
The skirt made use of in this instance is a two-gored design, with a
seam at each side, and to cut the pattern as shown on the diagram, the
hem of the skirt should be unpicked, also the side seams from the waist
to just below the hips, or just far enough to allow of the skirt being
laid flat out on the table.
[Sidenote: Easy to Make and to Slip On.]
Take care to see that you have the skirt placed so that there is
an even fold at centre back and front, and the side seams back one
another, then lay on your pattern. You will see that in placing the
sleeve portion it comes over the side seam of the skirt, giving you
two seams in the sleeve instead of one, but the second seam will come
on the under-arm so that it will not in any way spoil the appearance
of the garment. The collar and cuff portions will need to be lined in
order to neaten them, and you will probably find sufficient from the
cuttings to cut these out again, or if not, a small piece of white
calico could quite well be used for this.
[Illustration: A DIAGRAM FOR CUTTING OUT THE OVERALL FROM A SKIRT.]
The back of the overall is cut down from neck to hem, and finished with
a hem at each side, and fastened with buttons and buttonholes.
Many varieties of trimming could be used for a little overall of this
description. French knots worked in a contrasting colour along the
hem and round the collar and cuffs would be effective, or some simple
cross-stitch animal designs would look well.
Use Clark’s “Anchor” Coton à Broder, No. 12.
A frock for a two-year old has been used as an example, but it would be
quite possible to cut a larger size in a like manner, though it might
be necessary to put a false hem of some other material.
Stitchery.
If you are interested in Needlework, you will like the
magazine “Stitchery” that is being edited by Flora
Klickmann. It deals with practically every form of
Needlecraft, plain and fancy, including Crochet. It is
a high-class publication, printed in the same style as
“Needlework Economies.”
Re-footing made Easy.
[Illustration: A Hand-knit Sock showing the replaceable foot sections,
and the method of reinforcing the heel.]
This method of knitting hose renders it an easy matter to repair the
heel and toe when these parts become worn. By simply undoing the end
stitch of a row of crochet chain stitches, the sole, heel, or toe part
can be almost instantly removed by pulling the thread and undoing the
crochet. The chain stitches are used to join the different parts, which
are worked separately and then joined together.
When the worn part is removed, a piece exactly the same size is knitted
and joined to the remainder of the sock with the row of chain stitches.
In this way the leg and instep portions, which seldom wear out, may be
made to serve for two or three renewals of the parts exposed to wear.
It is just as easy to knit a sock or stocking in the new way as in the
old, and the saving effected by the new way is great, especially now,
when woollen thread is both scarce and expensive. The same may be said
about cotton thread.
The sock or stocking is begun in the usual way, and may be made either
plain or ribbed.
The sock illustrated is a full-size man’s sock, and the joinings are
shown in the dark line round the heel, along the side of the foot, and
across the instep at the beginning of the front toe part.
These joinings were made in black thread on the white sock in order to
show the joinings, but in making a sock they must all be worked with
the same thread as in the sock. Then the joinings are not visible on
the outside, nor is there a seam on the inside, as the row of chain
stitches forms a flat line.
Working the Leg.
In the sock shown here 80 st were cast on three No. 12
knitting-needles. On these were worked 4 inches of ribbing—1 plain, 1
purl. Then 5 inches of plain knitting with a back seam.
The Instep.
Divide for the heel, putting 20 st at each side of the back seam, all
on one needle. Divide the 39 remaining st on to the two needles, and
continue knitting on these (leaving the heel needle for the present),
knit and purl alternate rows until the piece is 6 inches long. Put the
39 st on one needle, and leave this part aside for the present.
The Heel.
Cast on 41 st on a needle in “slip loops,” that is, wind the thread
once round the top of the thumb, and take over the loop so formed on
to the needle.
[Sidenote: Renewing Worn Portions.]
Knit the 41 loops, purling the 21st for the back seam, which is
preserved for the entire heel.
Purl the next row, then knit and purl alternate rows until there are 24
rows in all.
Closing the Heel.
_1st Row._—Knit to the 9th st after the back seam, slip the 10th st, k
next stitch, pull the slipped stitch over, k 1, turn (leaving 8 st).
_2nd Row._—Slip 1st st and pull back to the 10th after the back seam,
purl 10th and 11th together, purl next st, turn and repeat these 2 rows
until all the stitches at each side have been taken in. Cut the thread,
leaving a short end attached.
The Sole.
There should now be 24 st at each side of the heel, and 23 along the
top of it. Cast on a number equal to these, 71, with the “slip loops.”
K and p alternate rows for 4 rows. Then decrease in every plain row
in the 3rd and 4th st from each end, thus:—k 2, sl 1, k 1, pass the
slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end, k 4th and 3rd together,
k 2.
Continue until the stitches are reduced to 39, to correspond with the
stitches on the instep.
Knit this piece until it is exactly the same length as the instep
portion.
[Illustration: How the new Toe and Heel for a Machine-knit Sock are
worked.]
The Toe.
Take two additional needles, cast on 20 st on one, and 19 on the other,
following after those on the sole needle, making the “slip loops” as
before. Join round, and k 2 rows plain.
Decrease in the next round thus:—k first 2 on the sole needle, sl 1,
k 1, pass the slipped st over, k to the 4th st from the end of this
needle, k 3rd and 2nd together, k 2.
Knit first 2 st on next needle, sl 1, k 1, pass the slipped st over, k
remainder of needle, k next needle to the last 4 st, k 4th and 3rd st
together, k 2.
Knit 6 rounds. Decrease as before.
Knit 5 rounds. Decrease. Knit 4 rounds. Decrease.
Knit 3 rounds. Decrease.
Knit 2 rounds. Decrease.
Decrease in every 2nd round until there are 11 st remaining on the sole
needle. Put back and front needles together, and taking a corresponding
stitch from each needle, cast off 2 together. Draw the thread through
last loop and cut it, leaving a short end.
The Method of Joining.
Commencing at the back part of the leg portion, place the heel in
position, having the wrong sides turned towards you.
With a No. 1 steel crochet hook, make a chain on the end of the thread,
insert the hook through the 1st st on the heel, and through the 1st st
on the needle of the leg portion, draw a loop through these 2 together,
and through the chain on the hook, insert the hook through the next
st on the heel, slip off the joined st on the needle, insert the hook
through the next st on the needle, draw a loop through the 2 st and
the loop on the needle, repeat to the end of the needle, then take up
the foot part, and put it in place on the heel. Join in the same way,
inserting the hook through corresponding stitches. Continue up the
side, across the instep and along to the heel again. Fasten the thread,
leaving about an inch of it. Work the end into the following stitches
to conceal it.
It can be readily seen that when any part is worn and requires to
be renewed, the joining thread can be cut and unravelled as far as
required.
To Renew the Toe Portion.
Undo the chain stitches along the front, cut the sole part in a line
with the front, unpick the threads to get an even line of stitches,
pick these up on a needle, and knit the toe piece exactly like the
first one. Join to the front in the same manner.
To Reinforce the Heel and Toe.
It is not generally known that these parts can be so reinforced that
their durability is prolonged two or three times. The best method of
doing this is shown in the sock illustrated.
“Star Sylko” No. 5, matching the colour of the sock, is worked into the
lines of knitted stitches, using a darning needle for the purpose.
Take up one side of each st on the needle, draw the thread through,
working in perpendicular rows, come back on the other side of the
stitches down to where the 1st row was commenced, and so on. In this
way the cotton thread is all on the outside of the woollen knitting,
and receives all the friction from the shoe, while it never comes next
to the skin. The dark strip down the heel shows where the strengthening
stitches have been worked in.
To Re-Knit a Heel and Toe into a Machine-Knit Sock.
In the machine-knit sock the heel and toe are not made in the same
way as in most of the hand-knit variety, but usually on the lines of
the illustration at bottom of page. In the case of the heel, a portion
of the leg has been worked to show how the heel is made straight on to
this.
[Sidenote: Repairing Machine-made Socks.]
Cut away the heel at its base to the 1st decreasing st. Make a cut
across the sole next the heel in a line with the 3rd decreasing at each
side.
Turn back 3 rows under the sole, where they must be secured with a flat
seam, using a piece of the same kind of thread and a darning needle.
Pick up the stitches at the base of the heel on to a knitting needle.
Fasten the thread and knit a row. Then purl and knit alternate rows,
taking the first 2 st together in every row until the st are reduced to
one-third of those in the 1st row.
Continue working a plain and a purl row alternately on these stitches,
increasing by picking up a loop at the end of each row from the side
of the flap just worked, until you have closed the heel, and have the
original number of stitches on the needle. Join to the sole part with a
row of crochet chain stitches.
The Toe Part.
This is worked exactly like the heel, picking up one-half of the st
round the foot part. Knit the toe part as in the heel, working back to
close the toe in the same way, then join to the front part with a row
of chain stitches.
[Illustration: Band boxes covered with chintz to match the hangings
give a pretty touch to a room. A large bow of plain colour serves to
lift the lid. The waste paper receptacle matches the box.]
How to Re-heel a Worn Sock.
When the heel only becomes worn out in a hand-knitted sock or stocking,
it is an easy matter to replace the worn-out portion and the adjacent
weak parts.
If possible, let the mending thread be a little finer in texture than
that used in the stocking, and when not possible to match the thread in
colour use white—in fact, many people prefer white heels and toes in
their hosiery.
We are illustrating a grey sock re-heeled with white to show clearly
how the work is done. Run a coloured thread through each stitch at the
base of the heel in a straight line from side to side. In the same way
run another piece of thread through the stitches at the top of the sole
where it adjoins the heel “closing” portion, that is from the first to
the last stitch on the centre of the heel to where the stitches at each
side of the heel were raised.
Now count the number of rows in the heel before the “closing” was
begun, and the number of stitches at each side of the back seam after
the closing was finished. Take a note of these, as the piece re-knitted
must fit exactly.
Cut away the worn part that you wish to replace from the second row
_inside_ the marking thread, and the second row from each side where
the side stitches were taken up. Pick out the cut threads from each
side of the heel until you come to the “raised” stitches, which you may
leave for the present as they cannot ravel.
Pick out the cut threads from the rows inside the marking threads in
the same way. The marking thread should be through every stitch so that
they cannot ravel.
Take up the stitches at the base of the heel and re-knit exactly as it
was before and close it in the same way. Tie the thread when the last
row in the heel closing is done, cut it and work the end in through the
stitches.
Thread a darning needle with a length of the same kind of thread and
fasten the thread to the beginning of the heel at the right side. * Run
the needle behind the next of the “raised” stitches on the sole at the
base of that stitch, bring it back to the heel, and running it inwards
through the first stitch where it was brought out bring it out through
the next heel stitch and repeat from * up to the stitches on the needle
which are connected to those on the thread in the same way, slipping
off each stitch when joined. Work down the other side in the same way,
fasten off the thread and cut it. Work in the end of the thread through
a few stitches. Remove the marking threads. This heel will have no seam.
[Illustration]
Slippers you can Make.
Footwear, like everything else, is exceedingly high-priced at present,
and to know how to economize in this direction is a serious problem.
But have you ever thought of making your slippers? This is really
quite possible. Indeed, there is no reason why very presentable
shoes and slippers cannot be made at home. In nearly every household
the materials are already at hand. Pieces of velvet, tweed, felt or
cloth are all suitable, and to show what can be done in this way we
illustrate here two pairs of comfortable slippers made from oddments.
The first is a neat pair made from a piece of left-over dress material,
in black and white woollen check, a bit of red flannel for lining and
some navy serge coating for the soles, which are formed over the usual
cardboard. Then the pair of men’s slippers were built up on a pair of
leather soles with fleecy lining. Grey tweed left over from making a
boy’s suit was utilised, and a scrap of blue flannel shirting forms the
lining.
[Illustration: A PAIR OF MEN’S SLIPPERS.]
[Illustration: SLIPPERS MADE FROM CHECK MATERIAL.]
You will probably see the advantage of making these at home, and any
comfortable old slipper can be cut up for a pattern.
They are made in the same way if you make the soles yourself, but with
the purchased slipper sole there is a slight difference in the manner
of attaching the upper.
The Check Slippers.
In cutting the upper, no turnings will need to be allowed for the upper
edge, but allow a margin of a quarter-inch around the side which comes
next to the sole. Cut both lining and material the same size.
The Sole.
Cut this out in stiff cardboard, then cut a covering for it from the
lining material, allowing a half-inch margin all round. Place the
cardboard on the centre, and draw the edges of the lining together
from opposite sides with crossing stitches, using stout linen thread
for this purpose and a coarse sewing needle. The cardboard must be
covered smoothly and securely with the flannel and gatherings made at
the heel and toe parts. The upper side of this sole is the inside of
the shoe, and the stitching underneath. Now lay this sole on another
piece of cardboard, and cut out the shape again just one-eighth of an
inch larger all round. Lay this on the felt or piece of tweed intended
for the outer sole and cut out the shape. Take the cardboard pattern
for this sole and cut away a quarter-inch margin around. This smaller
shape is put between the inner and outer soles when making up the shoe.
Stitch up the side seams in material and lining. Press both seams out
flat, place opposite to each other and tack the lining along the top
edge to the check material. Now bind the edges together with a strip of
ribbon or narrow tape. It is as well to stiffen the back of the slipper
a little with an interlining of thin cardboard or tailor’s canvas.
Now take up the flannel covered sole and place the upper over it,
having the smooth side of the sole turned from you; sew the edge of the
upper very securely to the wrong side of the sole, putting the stitches
into the flannel only, and about an eighth of an inch from the extreme
edge. Lay the small cardboard sole over the one just put in and secure
it with a couple of stitches, place the tweed sole on top of it with
its edge overlapping evenly all round. Using thick black thread, the
stronger the better, slip-stitch the sole through the inside edge to
the upper where it turns in under the first sole. It is necessary to
notch the edge of the cardboard stiffening where it overlaps the sole,
in order to make it lie flat.
The Men’s Slippers.
The same directions apply to these with the exception of the mode
of attaching the ready-made sole. Turn in both edges of the uppers
and tack securely around, then top-sew together, place over the sole
and stitch the sewn edges to the middle section of the sole, turning
back the leather edge for this purpose. No binding was used for this
slipper, but the lining had its edge turned in as well as the material,
then the lining was tacked with the turned in edge coming a little
above the material so as to form a narrow piping around the top.