If you are interested in knitting, this is the book you
should possess. It includes a number of directions for
garments for men and women’s wear, and some delightful
patterns for the little ones, to say nothing of the designs
in fancy knitting for household use. The volume is uniform
with this series, and issued by the same publishers.
The Use and Abuse of Gloves.
Never be tempted to throw away a pair of gloves, however old. That is,
until you have decided on their utter uselessness. Because a glove has
holey fingers, or a badly torn thumb, or a split palm, it does not
signify that it is of no use except for house-work.
Our illustration will show what can be done with gloves that are
“nearly hopeless” to most people.
To Mend a Glove worn Between the Fingers.
The first part to go is, as a rule, between the fingers. This more
especially is the case with washing gloves, which have a tendency to
shrink, and wash-leathers, unless splice-seamed, will _always_ do this.
As the fingers shrink, the space between splits, and it cannot be sewn
up because it would make the hand too tight and the fingers too short.
To remedy this, take a reel of strong thread and a small fur needle
(three-sided needle) and make a fine net-work between the two fingers.
[Illustration: SHOWING THE LATTICE-WORK BETWEEN THE FINGERS, AND ALSO
HOW TO APPLY A NEW THUMB.]
Button-hole the edge of the split as you form the lattice. Insert
your needle in the edge of the hole and make one button-hole stitch;
then take your needle into the other side of the hole with another
button-hole stitch. Then two button-hole stitches, and take your needle
up to the top edge of the hole, near where you began.
This forms bars about 1/16-inch apart, and with two button-hole
stitches in between.
This completed, turn the glove and do the same thing across from side
to side, knotting the thread each time it crosses the under-threads. By
this means, a tiny net-work is made.
This net-work is elastic, and will wear and wash into shape and last as
long as the glove itself.
Making a Neat Patch.
Next to the fingers, the thumb is the worst problem.
I find that opening carriage doors has an unfortunate knack of
splitting a glove, where the thumb joins the palm.
If there is plenty of room, this split can be neatly joined up, but
the better plan is to patch it with a tiny piece of an old glove.
[Sidenote: Taking Care of Your Gloves.]
Tack the patch in, and then with fine silk the colour of the glove,
button-hole around the edge of the tear, taking up the under-skin
as well. This keeps it firm and neat, and the patch may be cut away
underneath, just leaving a small margin for stretch.
Adding a New Thumb.
If the top of the thumb wears out, and is unpatchable, an entirely new
one can be put in with very little trouble. I have an old piece of
chamois leather, which I keep for this very thing, and it answers the
purpose beautifully.
Cut out the torn thumb _carefully_, retaining the shape as much as
possible. Split up the seam and lay it flat on the piece of leather or
kid which you are using to mend the glove.
Cut around the pattern, leaving a tiny margin, as your sewing is not as
fine as that done by an expert.
Then tack the new thumb into the glove around the base.
Button-hole this carefully in, and lastly button-hole the seam up the
thumb and across the top. This will be found _quite_ easy.
For coloured kid gloves, I buy scraps of kid from the boot maker, and
you can procure quite a nice sized piece for a small sum, large enough
to cut any size thumb and to leave a good few scraps for patching.
Always remember in putting on gloves to proceed slowly, pulling on the
fingers first and half the palm next, and the thumb last.
Be as careful in taking off as in putting on, and pull each finger and
thumb into shape.
[Illustration: A Patchwork Cloth made with “pieces” machined together
and finished with some narrow insertion.]
A Knitted Hat.
Materials Required.
For the hat illustrated a buckram shape was used with the brim slightly
curled all round, and deeper at the back than the front, and having
a tall crown; 1 ounce of purple wool, and 3 ounces of white 4-ply
“Beehive” Scotch Fingering; five No. 14 long steel knitting-needles.
The fifth needle is only required for the brim where there are too many
stitches for three needles.
Hat shapes alter, of course, from time to time, but the general
principles remain the same, and by a little adaptation, this can be
made to suit any shape of the “sailor” class.
[Illustration: The Hat is white, and the Flower Pattern is worked in
purple.]
Directions.
Commence by casting on 2 st on each of three needles. Knit 1st row
plain.
_2nd Row._—Knit twice into each st, thus—knit the st, but retain it on
the left needle, twist the point of the right needle round to the back
of the st and knit the other side of this st, then drop the st off the
left needle. Repeat into every st.
_3rd Row, and every Alternate Row._—Knit plain.
_4th Row._—* Knit 1, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.
_6th Row._—* Knit 2, knit twice into each st, repeat from *.
_8th Row._—* Knit 3, knit twice into next st, repeat from *.
Continue in this way, increasing the number of stitches in each section
by 1 st before the increase until in the 46th row, there are 24 st in
each section, that is 144 st in the row.
Knit 42 rows on the 144 st.
_89th Row._—* Knit 11, knit twice into the next st, repeat from *.
_90th Row._—Knit plain and repeat these 2 rows until the number in each
section is increased to 20, then knit 10 rows of the 240 st.
Use the spare needle to take off some of the stitches, putting 60 st on
each of the 4 needles.
Work in ribbing of knit 1, purl 1 all round for 16 rows, then cast off
the stitches on 2 of the needles, continue on the other 2 the ribbing
for the wide part of the brim, casting off 4 st at the beginning and
end of every row (composed of the stitches on the 2 needles), until
this piece measures 1½ inches, then cast off.
It will be necessary to fit the covering to the shape to see that it
fits evenly, and to add or subtract a row or two perhaps to the part
for each portion of the shape, while working.
[Sidenote: Pretty and Durable.]
Stretch the covering over the shape and tack along the line between the
crown and brim to the shape, turn the wrong side of the hat towards
you and gather up the edge of the covering to fit the shape along the
edge of the crown. Sew the knitting securely to this edge of the shape.
Headline the hat and press the brim with a warm iron, placing a damp
cloth under and over it; iron until the cloths are quite dry.
The Band.
This is made in the new floral knitting, and gives a nice finish to a
very useful and becoming hat.
Using the same kind of white wool and 2 needles, cast on 20 st and work
30 rows, 1 plain and 1 purl row alternately, so that there is a right
and a wrong side to the band.
_31st Row._—Knit 13 (using the white wool), tie on the purple wool
close up to the 13th st, and knit 4 p (purple), then finish the row
with white.
When using two or more colours in this class of knitting, one of the
wools is stretched across the fingers of the left hand just as in
crochet, and the wool for the stitch taken from this by inserting
the needle under it and drawing the loop through the stitch you are
knitting on the left-hand needle. Keep the different wools at opposite
sides of your work, so as not to tangle them, and see that the wools
on the back of the work are kept even and not pulled too tightly,
otherwise the work will pucker.
_32nd Row._—Purl 7 w (white), 1 p (purple), 12 w.
_33rd Row._—Knit 11 w (always slipping the 1st st), 1 p, 8 w.
_34th Row._—Purl 9 w, 1 p, 10 w.
_35th Row._—Knit 9 w, 2 p, 9 w.
_36th Row._—Purl 10 w, 1 p, 9 w.
_37th Row._—Knit 8 w, 1 p, 11 w.
_38th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.
_39th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.
_40th Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.
_41st Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 12 w.
_42nd Row._—Purl 12 w, 1 p, 7 w.
_43rd Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 9 w.
_44th Row._—Purl 8 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.
_45th Row._—Knit 4 w, 8 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.
_46th Row._—Purl 4 w, 5 p, 3 w, 4 p, 4 w.
_47th Row._—Knit 6 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 4 p, 4 w.
_48th Row._—Purl 5 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.
_49th Row._—Knit 3 w, 4 p, 2 w, 1 p, 2 w, 1 p, 7 w.
_50th Row._—Purl 5 w, 4 p, 3 w, 5 p, 3 w.
_51st Row._—-Knit 4 w, 2 p, 1 w, 8 p, 5 w.
_52nd Row._—Purl 4 w, 4 p, 1 w, 4 p, 3 w, 1 p, 3 w.
_53rd Row._—Knit 3 w, 3 p, 1 w, 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 5 w.
_54th Row._—Purl 10 w, 2 p, 1 w, 3 p, 4 w.
_55th Row._—Knit 7 w, 1 p, 6 w, 3 p, 3 w.
_56th Row._—Purl 2 w, 5 p, 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 2 p, 5 w.
_57th Row._—Knit 4 w, 4 p, 1 w. 4 p, 1 w, 3 p, 3 w.
_58th Row._—Purl 4 w, 1 p, 1 w, 4 p, 2 w, 2 p, 1 w, 1 p, 4 w.
_59th Row._—Knit 5 w, 2 p, 2 w, 8 p, 3 w.
_60th Row._—Purl 3 w, 4 p, 1 w, 2 p, 10 w.
_61st Row._—Knit 11 w, 3 p, 6 w.
_62nd Row._—Purl 6 w, 1 p, 13 w.
Knit next 22 rows all white, then repeat from the 31st row three times
more, ending with 30 rows of white.
Press this band on the wrong side as in the brim, turn in each end to
form an angle, and secure on the wrong side with a few stitches made
with the woollen thread, press the ends flat, then place the band round
the hat in the manner illustrated and sew in place.
To Wash the Hat.
The covering and band are easily removed from the shape when it becomes
necessary to clean the hat.
Make a lather of warm soapy water, immerse the covering and press and
squeeze through the hands, but do not rub, until it seems clean, then
squeeze out all the water possible and rinse in clean warm water, again
squeeze as dry as possible, and place immediately before the fire until
nearly, but not quite, dry. Have the wrong side turned out. Press on
the wrong side with a hot iron until quite dry, pull into shape, and
replace over the buckram.
The band, or covering, if it be made with coloured wool, should have a
handful of salt added to the lather and rinsing water.
[Illustration: Design No. 8. This Stocking Top is described on page
27.]
Fancy Tops for Socks and Stockings.
Very pretty effects can be obtained for turnover stocking tops by
working in plain knitting in two or three shades of wool. The designs
illustrated are worked in grey wool, with black and white introduced
just to show the contrast, and when worked in bright colours many of
these would be very effective. For instance, saxe blue and a bright
brown would be pretty on a grey sock, and emerald green and white on
a navy sock is another combination; or the boy’s particular school
colours can be introduced, giving a uniform touch to his rig-out.
These tops are not at all difficult to work, and can be added to any
sock directions. They are best commenced with six or eight rows of
ribbing, as this makes them set well, and when the fancy design is
completed the work is turned before commencing the sock itself. Care
must be taken to see that you have the correct multiple of stitches
for the particular design chosen, and, if necessary, add the required
number to give this after the ribbing, decreasing them to the original
number again, to get the even rib before commencing the sock.
Another point that should be borne in mind is, that the wools must be
allowed to run very loosely, or the design will become contracted.
You can also quite easily prevent the wools becoming twisted together
in the working, if in changing from one wool to another you weave the
wools first over, and then under the shade previously used.
If you find you have the design contracted a little when finished,
pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth will often relieve this. In
fact, all knitted garments are the better for being pressed in this way.
The directions given are for a sock for a boy of from six to seven
years of age, and the leg measures 11½ inches to the base of the heel
when the top is turned over; the foot measures seven inches from heel
to toe.
[Illustration: A FINISHED STOCKING SHOWING DESIGN No. 1.]
The Sock.
Abbreviations Used.
K = knit; P = purl; N = narrow (decrease a stitch by knitting two
stitches together); St = stitch or stitches.
Materials required: 4 ounces of Messrs. J. & J. Baldwin’s 4-ply grey
“Beehive” Scotch Fingering, a half ounce each of white and black wool,
and four No. 15 steel needles.
With grey wool cast on 64 st, 22 on each of two needles and 20 on the
third needle. Work in rib of K 2, and P 2 for 8 rounds. Work one plain
round, increasing your number of st to 70, then commence the fancy top,
using the three wools as follows:
_10th and 11th Rounds._—4 grey (G), 3 white (W), 4 G, 3 black (B).
Repeat.
_12th and 13th Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.
_14th and 15th Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.
_16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th Rounds._—4 G, 3 B, 4 G, 3 W. Repeat.
_20th and 21st Rounds._—2 W, 2 B, 3 G, 2 B, 2 W, 3 G. Repeat.
_22nd and 23rd Rounds._—2 B, 2 W, 3 G, 2 W, 2 B, 3 G. Repeat.
[Illustration: Design No. 2.]
_24th and 25th Rounds._—4 G, 3 W, 4 G. 3 B. Repeat.
Work a plain round in the grey wool and decrease your stitches to 64
again.
Turn the work, and commence the sock in rib of K 3, P 1.
Work for 5½ inches, then commence shaping for the leg as follows: K 1,
N, work in rib to the four last st of the round N, K 1, P 1.
Decrease in this way four times, with 7 rows between each decreasing.
Work an inch without shaping, then divide the st, putting half on to
one needle for the heel, taking care that the decreasings made come in
the centre of the needle.
The Heel.
Make an extra stitch, so that you have an odd number on the needle (you
should then have 29 st), and knit and purl a row alternately (always
slipping the first st) until you have worked the same number of rows as
you have st on the needle, ending with a purl row.
K 16, N, K 1, turn.
P 5, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn.
K 6, N, K 1, turn.
P 7, Purl 2 together, P 1, turn, and continue in this manner until all
the stitches have been worked on to one needle again.
[Illustration: Design No. 3.]
Pick up 14 loops at each side of the heel, and commence working in
rounds again for the foot, continuing the rib on the instep needles,
but working in plain knitting for the under part of the foot.
[Illustration: Design No. 4.]
In the first round narrow at each side, by taking the two lowest
stitches picked up from the side of the heel flap together.
Repeat this decreasing three times, with 1 round between each. Continue
the foot without further shaping for 3½ inches, when you will be ready
for the toe.
The Toe.
Put half your st on the heel needle, and divide the remainder between
the other two needles. Work the toe in plain knitting all round,
decreasing at each end of the heel needle, and at the outer end of the
other needles every other round, until you have only 20 st left in
the round. Place these on to two needles, and cast off both needles
together.
[Sidenote: For the Small Boy.]
Design No. 2.
For this pattern the number of st used must give a multiple of 8.
_1st and 2nd Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.
_3rd and 4th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 G, * W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat from *.
_9th and 10th Rounds._—3 W, 5 G. Repeat.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 G, * 1 W, 2 G, 1 B, 1 G, 1 B, 2 G. Repeat
from *.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—4 G, * 3 B, 5 G. Repeat from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—1 B, * 1 G, 7 B. Repeat from *.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—3 G, 5 B. Repeat.
Design No. 3.
For this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of 6.
[Illustration: Design No. 5.]
Commence the border by working 2 plain rounds in the black wool, then 2
plain rounds in the white.
_5th and 6th Rounds._—1 B, 5 W. Repeat.
_7th and 8th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 B, 3 W. Repeat from *.
_9th and 10th Rounds._—2 W, 1 B. Repeat.
_11th and 12th Rounds._—1 W, 3 B, 1 W, 1 B. Repeat.
_13th and 14th Rounds._—1 W, * 3 G, 3 W. Repeat from *.
_15th and 16th Rounds._—5 G, 1 W. Repeat.
_17th and 18th Rounds._—White.
_19th and 20th Rounds._—Black.
4th Design.