BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of
preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants. It will
have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the
form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not
been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty
body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the
exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems.
Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla,
Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of
these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in
which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards
infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the
most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils
(_i.e._ otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The
simple odors, when isolated, are called ESSENTIAL OILS or
OTTOS; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by
the English they are termed ESSENCES, and by the French
EXTRAITS or ESPRITS; a few exceptions prove this rule.
Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed
in the trade "Essence" of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of
essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature
is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the
fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the
writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it
would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant,
brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that
such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We
should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender,
&c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used
the word OTTO in place of "essential oil," in accordance with
his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat
oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered
obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"--oil of
jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will
use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these
differences of composition.
There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants
should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad
principle to give any class of substances the same signification as
those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing
qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical
reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large
class of substances known as the aroma of plants!
When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies
were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the
old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a
little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use.
We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential
oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term
sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the
odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy
bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with
salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils,
_i.e._ what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the
contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances.
The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its
literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy
substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials
which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled
with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no
longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have
almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like.
It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates
to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulæ for preparing the
most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are
but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended,
produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the
smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious
sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.
THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME.
Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint.
" geranium, 1/2 "
" acacia, 1/4 "
" fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
" civet, 1/4 "
THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET.
Extract of acacia, 1 pint.
" jasmine, }
" rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "
" fleur d'orange, }
" tubereuse, }
" civet, 1/4 "
Otto of almonds, 10 drops.
BOUQUET D'AMOUR.
Esprit de rose, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" violette, }
" cassie, }
Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 "
" ambergris, }
Mix and filter.
BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE.
Extrait de jasmine, }
" rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" violette, }
" tuberose, }
Extract of orris, 1 "
Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET.
Extrait de fleur d'orange,}
" cassie, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" jasmine, }
" rose, }
Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 "
" ambergris, }
Otto of neroli, 1/2 drachm.
" lavender, 1/2 "
" rose, 1 "
BOUQUET DE CAROLINE; ALSO CALLED BOUQUET DES DELICES.
Extrait de rose, }
" violette, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" tuberose, }
Extract of orris, } of each, 1/2 "
" ambergris, }
Otto of bergamot, }
" Limette, } of each, 1/4 oz.
" cedret, }
THE COURT NOSEGAY.
Extrait de rose, }
" violette, } of each, 1 pint.
" jasmine, }
Esprit de rose triple, 1 "
Extract of musk, } of each, 1 oz.
" ambergris, }
Otto of lemon, } of each, 1/2 oz.
" bergamot, }
" neroli, 1 drachm.
EAU DE CHYPRE.
This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the
_Cyperus esculentus_ by some, and by others to be so named after the
Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus--
Extract of musk, 1 pint.
" ambergris, }
" vanilla, } of each, 1/2 "
" tonquin bean, }
" orris, }
Esprit de rose triple, 2 pints.
The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be
made.
EMPRESS EUGENIE'S NOSEGAY.
Extract of musk, }
" vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint.
" tonquin, }
" neroli, }
" geranium, }
" rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "
" santal, }
ESTERHAZY BOUQUET.
Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade), 1 pint.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 "
Extract of vitivert, }
" vanilla, } of each, 2 "
" orris, }
" tonquin, }
Esprit de neroli, 1 "
Extract of ambergris, 1/2 "
Otto of santal, 1/2 drachm.
" cloves, 1/2 "
Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is the vitivert that
gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few perfumes have excited
greater _furor_ while in fashion.
ESS BOUQUET.
The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous imitations of
the original article, more particularly on the continent. In many of the
shops in Germany and in France will be seen bottles labelled in close
imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London,
who are, in truth, the original makers.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint.
Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.
" orris, 8 "
Otto of lemons, 1/4 "
" bergamot, 1 "
The name "Ess" bouquet, which appears to puzzle some folk, is but a mere
contraction of "essence" of bouquet.
EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La première qualité._)
Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof, 6 gallons.
Otto of neroli, _Petale_, 3 oz.
" " _Bigarade_, 1 "
" rosemary, 2 "
" orange-peel, 5 "
" citron-peel, 5 "
" bergamot-peel, 2 "
Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly
quiet, before bottling.
EAU DE COLOGNE. (_La deuxième qualité._)
Spirit (from corn), 6 gallons.
Otto of neroli, _Petit-grain_, 2 oz.
" " _Petale_, 1/2 "
" rosemary, 2 "
" orange-peel, }
" lemon, } of each, 4 "
" bergamot, }
Although Eau de Cologne was originally introduced to the public as a
sort of "cure-all," a regular "elixir of life," it now takes its place,
not as a pharmaceutical product, but among perfumery. Of its remedial
qualities we can say nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the
purpose of this book. Considered, however, as a perfume, with the public
taste it ranks very high; and although it is exceedingly volatile and
evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality which is called
"refreshing." Whether this be due to the rosemary or to the spirit, we
cannot say, but think something may be attributed to both. One important
thing relating to Eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed, and
that is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The utter
impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in any way to
resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is equally impossible to
make Eau de Cologne with English spirit, to resemble the original
article. To speak of the "purity" of French spirit, or of the "impurity"
of English spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived
from grapes, and spirit obtained from corn, have each so distinct and
characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken for the other.
The odor of grape spirit is said to be due to the oeanthic ether which
it contains. The English spirit, on the other hand, owes its odor to
fusel oil. So powerful is the oeanthic ether in the French spirit,
that notwithstanding the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous
substances as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives
a characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and hence
the difficulty of preparing Eau de Cologne with any spirit destitute of
this substance.
Although very fine Eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the
ingredients as indicated in the recipe as above, yet it is better,
first, to mix all the citrine ottos with spirit, and then to distil the
mixture, afterwards adding to the distillate the rosemary and nerolies,
such process being the one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne.
A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been
published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no
knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on
paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the
aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe,
hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom,
cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm,
peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.
All these, however, are but hum--! Where it is a mere matter of profit,
and the formula that we have given is too expensive to produce the
article required, it is better to dilute the said Cologne with a weak
spirit, or with rose-water, rather than otherwise alter its form;
because, although weak, the true aroma of the original article is
retained.
The recipe of the second quality of Eau de Cologne is given, to show
that a very decent article can be produced with English spirit.
FLOWERS OF ERIN.
Extract of white rose (see WHITE ROSE), 1 pint.
" vanilla, 1 oz.
ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint.
" neroli, }
" acacia, }
" fleur d'orange, } of each 1/4 "
" musk, }
" orris, }
" tonquin, 1/2 "
Otto of citron 2 drachms.
BOUQUET DE FLORA; OTHERWISE, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS.
Esprit de rose,}
" tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" violette, }
Extract of benzoin, 1-1/2 oz.
Otto of bergamot, 2 "
" lemon, }
" orange, } of each, 1/2 "
THE GUARDS' BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose, 2 pints.
" neroli, 1/2 pint.
Extract of vanilla, 2 oz.
" orris, 2 "
" musk, 1/4 pint.
Otto of cloves, 1/2 drachm.
FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY.
Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints.
" rose triple, 1 pint.
" jasmine, }
" violette, } from pomade, each, 1 "
Extract of cassie, 1/2 "
" musk, }
" ambergris, } of each, 2 oz.
JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_English formula._)
Extract of orris root, 2 pints.
Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint.
" rose de pomade, 1 "
Extrait de cassie, }
" tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 "
" ambergris, } 1/2 "
Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz.
JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (_French formula._)
Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint.
" tubereuse, 1 "
" cassie, 1/2 "
" jasmine, 1/4 "
Extract of civet, 3 oz.
Independently of the materials employed being different to the original
English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are
made of brandy, _i.e._ grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are
made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for
some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on
account of the predominance of its own aroma.
We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and
French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes
made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different
spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of
their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a
superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly
admit that _some_ odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than
with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly
the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk,
ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to
retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with
the British spirit.
All the citrine odors, verveine, vulnerary waters, Eau de Cologne, Eau
de Portugal, Eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender, can alone be brought to
perfection by using the French spirit in their manufacture. If extract
of jasmine, or extract of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy
spirit, the true characteristic odor of the flower is lost to the
olfactory nerve--so completely does the oeanthic ether of the grape
spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution with it.
This solves the paradox that English extract of violet and its
compounds, "spring flowers," &c., is at all times in demand on the
Continent, although the very flowers with which we make it are grown
there.
On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make Eau de
Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison as a fine odor to that made by
Lubin, of Paris, without using grape spirit, his attempts will prove a
failure. True, he makes Eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit,
but judges of the article--and they alone can stamp its merit--discover
instantly the same difference as the connoisseur finds out between
"Patent British" and foreign brandy.
Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that what is sold in
this country as British brandy is in truth grape spirit, that is,
foreign brandy very largely diluted with English spirit! By this scheme,
a real semblance to the foreign brandy flavor is maintained; the
difference in duty upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of
the "capsuled" article to undersell those who vend the unsophisticated
Cognac.
Some chemists, not being very deep in the "tricks of trade," have
thought that some flavoring, or that oeanthic ether, was used to
impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma. An article is even in the
market called "Essence of Cognac," but which is nothing more than very
badly made butyric ether.
On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the fermentation
of the molasses from beet-root; this, of course, finds its way into the
market, and is often mixed with the grape spirit; so, also, in England
we have spirit from potatoes, which is mixed in the corn spirit. These
adulterations, if we may so term it, modify the relative odors of the
primitive alcohols.
A JAPANESE PERFUME.
Extract of rose triple, }
" vitivert, }
" patchouly, } of each, 1/2 pint.
" cedar, }
" santal, }
" vervaine, 1/4 "
KEW GARDEN NOSEGAY.
Esprit de neroli (_Petale_), 1 pint.
" cassie, }
" tubereuse, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 "
" jasmine, }
" geranium, 1/2 "
" musk, } of each, 3 oz.
" ambergris, }
EAU DES MILLEFLEURS.
Esprit de rose triple, 1 pint.
" rose de pomade,}
" tubereuse, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 "
" fleur d'orange,}
" cassie, }
" violette, }
Extract of cedar, 1/4 "
Extract of vanilla, }
" ambergris, } of each, 2 oz.
" musk, }
Otto of almonds, }
" neroli, } of each, 10 drops.
" cloves, }
" bergamot, 1 oz.
These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then
filtered prior to sale.
MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER.
Essence of lavender (_Mitcham_), 1/2 pint.
Eau des millefleurs, 1 "
DECROIX'S MILLEFLOWER LAVENDER.
Spirits from grape, 1 pint.
French otto of lavender, 1 oz.
Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.
The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its
peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although
some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender;
hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor,
and has almost superseded the original preparations.
There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the
leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as
lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c.,
all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with
about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.
BOUQUET DU MARECHALE.
Esprit de rose triple, }
} of each, 1 pint.
Extrait de fleur d'orange, }
" vitivert, }
" vanilla, }
" orris, } of each, 1/2 "
" tonquin, }
Esprit de neroli, }
Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint.
" ambergris, }
Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm.
" santal, }
EAU DE MOUSSELAINE.
Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint.
Extrait de cassie, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 "
" tubereuse,}
" rose, }
Otto of santal, 2 drachms.
BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER.
Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint.
" rose de pomade, 1 "
" rose triple, 1 "
Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 "
" ambergris, }
Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm.
" bergarmot, 1/2 oz.
CAPRICE DE LA MODE.
Extrait de jasmine, }
" tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint.
" cassie, }
" fleur d'orange, }
Otto of almonds, 10 drops.
" nutmegs, 10 "
Extract of civet, 1/4 pint.
MAY FLOWERS.
Extract of rose (de pomade), }
" jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint.
" fleur d'orange, }
" cassie, }
" vanilla, 1 "
Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.
NEPTUNE, OR NAVAL NOSEGAY.
Extrait de rose, triple, }
" santal, } of each, 1/2 pint.
" vitivert, }
" patchouly, }
" verbena, 1/8 "
BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS.
Countries wherein the Odors
are produced.
TURKEY, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint.
AFRICA, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 "
ENGLAND, " lavender, 1/4 "
FRANCE, " tubereuse, 1/2 "
SOUTH AMERICA, " vanilla, 1/4 "
TIMOR, " santal, 1/4 "
ITALY, " violet, 1 "
HINDOOSTAN, " patchouly, 1/4 "
CEYLON, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm.
SARDINIA, " lemons, 1/4 oz.
TONQUIN, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint.
ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET.
Extract of orris, 1/2 pint.
" vitivert, 1/4 "
" santal, 1 "
" rose, 1/2 "
BOUQUET DU ROI.
Extract of jasmine, }
" violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" rose }
" vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint.
" vitivert, }
" musk, } of each, 1 oz.
" ambergris, }
Otto of bergamot, 1 oz.
" cloves, 1 drachm.
BOUQUET DE LA REINE.
Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
Extrait de violette, }
" tubereuse, 1/2 "
" fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
RONDELETIA.
The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most
gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors,
Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the _name_ of this
odor from the _Rondeletia_, the _Chyn-len_ of the Chinese; or from the
R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before
observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve
produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different
sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract
of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet
the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are
certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new
aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is
exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when
mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and
blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are
united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.
Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce
a new fragrance, _i.e._ Rondeletia! It is such combinations that
constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised,
is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma,
and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when
so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used
accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a
like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal
proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or
hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that
patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the
vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most
delicate.
Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we
express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve,
as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains.
By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in
the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is
pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a
warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to
cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the
general benefit of health.
To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed
formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its
peculiar character--that is, cloves and lavender--it contains musk,
vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other
bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the
handkerchief.
ESSENCE OF RONDELETIA.
Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon.
Otto of lavender, 2 oz.
" cloves, 1 oz.
" roses, 3 drachms.
" bergamot, 1 oz.
Extract of musk, }
" vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint.
" ambergris, }
The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale.
Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.
BOUQUET ROYAL.
Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint.
Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 "
Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 "
" violet, }
" verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz.
" cassie, }
Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz.
" bergamot, }
Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz.
" ambergris, }
SUAVE.
Extract of tubereuse, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint.
" cassie, }
" rose, }
" vanilla, 5 oz.
" musk, } each, 2 oz.
" ambergris, }
Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz.
" cloves, 1 drachm.
SPRING FLOWERS.
Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint.
" violet, }
" rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz.
" cassie, 2-1/2 oz.
Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms.
Extract of ambergris, 1 oz.
The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the
very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing
perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being
unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there
is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of
the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to
which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that
neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is
due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor
upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients
it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an
Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that
does not attempt an imitation.
TULIP NOSEGAY.
Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are
inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an
exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the
purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name,
and makes an excellent imitation thus:--
Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint.
" violet, }
" rose, 1/2 "
" orris, 3 oz.
Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
VIOLETTE DES BOIS.
Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing
the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers
sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of
the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:--
Extract of violet, 1 pint.
" orris, 3 oz.
" cassie, 3 oz.
" rose (from pomade) 3 oz.
Otto of almonds, 3 drops.
This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer
than the pure violet.
WINDSOR CASTLE BOUQUET.
Alcohol, 1 pint.
Otto of neroli, }
" rose, } each, 1/4 oz.
" lavender, }
" bergamot, }
" cloves, 8 drops.
Extract of orris, 1 pint.
" jasmine, } each, 1/4 "
" cassie, }
" musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz.
" ambergris, }
YACHT CLUB BOUQUET.
Extract of santal, 1 pint.
" neroli, 1 "
" jasmine, } each, 1/2 "
" rose triple, }
" vanilla, 1/4 "
Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz.
We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates
to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too
much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of
so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular.
Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar
character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand
recipes that have been practically tried.
Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of
flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles.