It is more than probable that indigo, so early as the time of
Dioscorides and Pliny, was brought to Europe, and employed there in
dyeing and painting. This I shall endeavour to show; but under that
name must be understood every kind of blue pigment, separated from
plants by fermentation, and converted into a friable substance by
desiccation; for those who should maintain that real indigo must be
made from those plants named in the botanical system _Indigofera
tinctoria_, would confine the subject within too narrow limits; as the
substance which our merchants and dyers consider as real indigo is
prepared, in different countries, from so great a number of plants,
that they are not even varieties of the same species.
Before the American colonies were established, all the indigo employed
in Europe came from the East Indies; and till the discovery of a
passage round the Cape of Good Hope, it was conveyed, like other Indian
productions, partly through the Persian Gulf, and partly by land to
Babylon, or through Arabia and up the Red Sea to Egypt, from which
it was transported to Europe. Considering this long carriage, as the
article was not obtained, according to the Italian expression, _a
drittura_, that is, in a direct manner, it needs excite no surprise,
that our knowledge, in regard to its real country and the manner of
preparing it, should be exceedingly uncertain and imperfect. Is it
astonishing that articles, always obtained through Arabia, should be
considered as productions of that country; and that many commodities
which were the work of art, should be given out to be productions of
nature? For more than a hundred years the Dutch purchased from the
Saxons cobalt, and smalt made from it, and sold them again in India;
and the Indians knew as little where and in what manner the Dutch
obtained them, as the Saxons did the people who were the ultimate
purchasers and consumers. The real nature of indigo was not generally
known in Europe till the Europeans procured it from the first hand;
yet long after that period, and even in the letters-patent obtained
on the 23rd of December 1705, by the proprietors of the mines in the
principality of Halberstadt and the county of Reinstein, indigo
was classed among minerals on account of which works were suffered
to be erected; but this only proves the individual ignorance of the
undertakers, and also of their superiors, when they read what they had
written, and confirms the justness of Ovid’s advice,
Disce bonas artes, moneo, Germana juventus;
Non tantum trepidos ut tueare reos.
What Dioscorides calls _Indicon_, and Pliny and Vitruvius _Indicum_,
I am strongly inclined to believe to have been our indigo[615]. It
was a blue pigment brought from India, and used both in painting and
in dyeing. When pounded it gave a black powder, and when suspended in
water it produced an agreeable mixture of blue and purple. It belonged
to the costly dye-stuffs, and was often adulterated by the addition
of earth. On this account, that which was soft without any roughness,
and which resembled an inspissated juice, was esteemed the best. Pliny
thinks[616] that pure indigo may be distinguished from that which is
adulterated by burning it, as the former gives an exceedingly beautiful
purple flame, and emits a smell similar to that of sea-water. Both he
and Dioscorides speak of two kinds, one of which adheres to reeds,
in the form of slime or scum thrown up by the sea; the other, as
Dioscorides says, was scraped from the sides of the dye-pans in the
form of a purple-coloured scum; and Pliny expressly remarks, that it
was collected in this manner in the establishments for dyeing purple.
The former relates also, that _Indicum_ belonged to the astringent
medicines; that it was used for ulcers and inflammations, and that it
cleansed and healed wounds.
This is all, as far as I know, that is to be found in the works of
the ancients respecting _Indicum_. I have given it at full length, as
accurately as possible, and I have added, in order that the reader may
be better able to compare and judge, references to the original words
of the authors. _Indicon_, it is true, occurs in other passages; but
it was certainly different from the one already mentioned. I allude,
for example, to the black _Indicon_ of Arrian and the _Indicon_ of
Hippocrates. Of the former I shall treat in particular hereafter;
and in regard to the latter, I refer to the author quoted in the note
below[617]. It is not at all surprising that these names should be
applied to more Indian commodities, since at present we give to many
kinds of fruit, flowers, fowls and other things, the appellation of
Indian. The ancients, indeed, were not so careful as to distinguish
always, by a proper addition, the many articles to which they gave
the name of _Indica_; and they had reason to expect that their
contemporaries would readily comprehend by the connexion, the kind that
was properly meant. Their commentators, however, in later times have
for the most part thought only of one species or thing, and by these
means they have fallen into mistakes which I shall here endeavour to
rectify.
Everything said by the ancients of _Indicum_ seems to agree perfectly
with our indigo. The proper country of this production is India; that
is to say, Gudscharat or Gutscherad, and Cambaye or Cambaya, from which
it seems to have been brought to Europe since the earliest periods.
It is found mentioned, from time to time, in every century; it is
never spoken of as a new article, and it has always retained its old
name; which seems to be a proof that it has been used and employed in
commerce without interruption.
It is true, as the ancients say, that good indigo, when pulverized,
is of a blackish colour. The tincture, however, is partly blue and
partly purple; but under the latter term we must understand an
agreeable violet, and not, as is often the case, our scarlet. It is
true also that good indigo is soft or smooth to the touch[618] when
pounded; it floats on water, and at present, as in the time of Pliny,
is adulterated and rendered heavier by the admixture of some earth,
which in general, as appears, is fine pounded slate[619]. It is further
true that the purity of it can be discovered by burning it. Indigo
free from all foreign bodies leaves but little ash, while that which
is impure leaves a large quantity of earth. Pliny, perhaps, did not
rightly understand this test by fire, and added from conjecture, what
he says in regard to the colour of the flame and the smell of the
smoke, that this proof might not remain without an explanation. It is,
however, possible that those who considered indigo to be sea-slime,
imagined that they perceived in it a smell of sea-water. A naturalist
of modern times, who refers petrifactions to Noah’s flood, believed
that he could smell sea-water in them after the lapse of so many
thousand years.
_Indicum_, on account of its long carriage by land, must have been
dear, and therefore it was one of those pigments which the ancient
painters, who were often poor slaves, were not accustomed to keep in
any quantity by them, and with which it was necessary they should be
supplied by those for whom they executed paintings[620]. Our indigo was
also exceedingly dear till it was cultivated in the West Indies, where
the value of it decreased as long as good land was plentiful and the
price of labour was lessened by the slave-trade.
That indigo, which at present is used only by dyers, should have been
employed also for painting, needs excite no surprise. It was applied to
this purpose till the invention of painting in oil, and the discovery
of Prussian blue, smalt and other pigments of a superior quality. It is
even still used by landscape-painters to produce a pale gray; but it
will not harmonise with oil. As to the medical properties of indigo,
I can at any rate show that the experiments made with it at the end
of the seventeenth and the beginning of the eighteenth century fully
confirm the high encomium bestowed by Dioscorides upon his _Indicum_.
There was a time when the former was much prescribed and recommended.
At present our physicians are acquainted with purer and more powerful
remedies than indigo, the internal use of which, as the fermented mass
is prepared in copper vessels, must be attended with suspicion.
That the author, so often mentioned already, was not acquainted with
the preparation of indigo, cannot be denied. It would, indeed, have
been extraordinary had the account of it reached the Greeks and the
Romans undisguised by fables, added either to answer the purposes of
the interested merchant, or accidentally in the course of its long
journey, in passing through so many countries and languages. It appears
to me, however, that through these it may still be discovered; and in
all probability we should be better able to form some idea of it were
the oldest method of making indigo still known. In the slime deposited
on the reeds, I think I can remark the first degree of fermentation, or
commencement of putrefaction, without which the pigment could not be
separated. Who knows whether the indigo plants in the earliest times
were not deposited in pits or in stagnant water, in the same manner
as our flax and hemp? Who knows whether after putrefaction they were
not taken out, and the colouring parts adhering to them washed off
and collected? The quantity indeed obtained by this process would not
be great, and at present a much better method is employed; but the
improvements made in every art have been gradual. The old inhabitants
of the Canary islands scratched their land with the horns of oxen,
because they were not acquainted with the spade, and far less with the
plough. The above conjecture will appear much more probable, when it
is known that in many parts of India the plants were formerly placed
in large pits; and in Malta, where indigo was still cultivated in
the seventeenth century, they were put into reservoirs or basins in
order to ferment[621]. If this was usual in the oldest times, it may
be easily seen how fabulous accounts might arise. Indigo was a slime
attracted from the water by a reed, which the indigo plant, stripped of
its bark, was considered to be.
Dioscorides speaks of another kind of indigo, which was the dried
purple-coloured scum of the dye-pans. My predecessors, considering this
account as an error, which might have arisen either from conjecture or
misconception, or which was purposely occasioned by merchants, did not
think it worthy of further examination. I cannot, however, refrain from
remarking, that a blue pigment, and even a very fine one, if the proper
preparations had been made for that purpose, might have been obtained
in this manner. It was not indeed indigo, in the proper sense of the
word, but a pigment of a similar nature. That fine high-priced powder
sold, at present, under the name of blue carmine, is made from the
separated scum of a dye-liquor, in which the finest colouring particles
remain suspended. The scum or flower of a blue pan[622] which floats
on the surface exhibits a play of many colours; and as among these the
ancient purple is frequently observed, it may therefore very properly
be said to have a purple colour[623]. In my opinion, there is no reason
to disbelieve Dioscorides, when he says that in his time a blue pigment
named indigo was made in this manner, especially as it can be proved
that the woad-dyers, at the end of the sixteenth century, separated
from their pans a colouring substance, which they sold instead of
indigo, an article at that time exceedingly dear[624]. Besides, we
read that in the establishments for dyeing black, the scum was in like
manner collected in old times in the form of a black pigment, and this
practice, as appears, was usual in all the dye-houses in general.
Pliny, who says that this indigo was made in the purple dye-houses,
seems either to have misunderstood Dioscorides, or to have been too
precipitate; but it is certain that the scum in the purple dye-houses
may have been collected and dried into a purple-coloured carmine.
As the Europeans did not become acquainted with the nature of indigo
till modern times, it needs excite no astonishment that the old
commentators should have erred in explaining the passages to which I
here allude; and their opinion can therefore be of little weight in
opposition to mine. Those who have approached nearest to the truth,
Sarazen, Mathioli, Salmasius, &c., speak as if indigo were made from
our woad, which however does not grow in India. Dioscorides speaks
also of woad in a particular section. Marcellus Vergilius says, that
Dioscorides meant indigo is certain; and this article is so generally
known that it is not worth while to mention it. But he himself seems
not to have been acquainted with it, else he would have amended the
erroneous passage which speaks of _Indian stone_[625]. This arose from
the ignorance of the old transcribers, who being unacquainted with
_Indicum_ thought only of _gemma Indica_, mentioned by Pliny[626]. But
Vergilius was right in this, that the purple lake, spoken of by Pliny,
and not by Dioscorides as he believes, can no longer be produced.
I have long made it a rule, and prescribed it to others, in explaining
any object mentioned by the ancients, never to admit, without the
strongest proofs, that the same article is denoted by different
appellations. This, it is true, has been often done. By these means
the small knowledge we possess of a thing that occurs under one name
only may be increased. A wider field may thus be opened for conjecture,
and more latitude may be given to the imagination; but at the same
time one may fall into groundless explanations, and hazard assertions,
which, with whatever caution and learning proposed, will, on closer
examination, be found either false or highly improbable. According
to this rule, I have carefully endeavoured not to suffer myself to
be so far misled by the respectability of my predecessors, as to
consider the _Indicum_ and _Indicum nigrum_ of the ancients to be the
same substance. On further research I find that the latter not only
appears by the epithet to be different from indigo, but that it is
China, or, as the Dutch call it, Indian ink. To prove this, I must
refer to the passage of Pliny[627] on which my assertion is founded;
and perhaps the short illustrations added will render this minuteness
less tedious to those who are fond of such disquisitions. In the
passage referred to, Pliny enumerates all the materials which in his
time were used for black ink. He therefore mentions two vitriolic
substances, a slime or sediment (_salsugo_), and a yellow vitriolic
earth (called also _misy_). Such minerals continued in use as long
as men were unacquainted with the art of lixiviating the salt, and
causing it to crystallize; or in other words, as long as they had no
vitriol-manufactories. He speaks also of lamp-black being made in huts
built for the purpose, which are described by Vitruvius, and from which
the smoke of burning pine-wood was conveyed into a close apartment. The
article was certainly adulterated, when soot, taken from the baths and
other places where an open fire was maintained with wood of all kinds,
was intermixed with it. It is very remarkable that black from burnt
refuse of grapes, _noir de vigne_, which at present our artists, and
particularly our copper-plate printers, consider as the most beautiful
black, was made even at that period. Germany hitherto has obtained the
greater part of this article from Mentz, through Frankfort, and on that
account it is called Frankfort black. Some is made also at Kitsingen,
Markbreit, and Munich. For this purpose the refuse of the grapes is
charred in a close fire, and being then finely pounded is packed into
casks. Pliny observes, that it was asserted that from this substance
one could obtain a black which might be substituted for indigo. Another
pigment was bone-black, or burnt ivory, which is highly esteemed even
at present. Besides these, continues he, there is obtained from India
what is called _Indicum_, the preparation of which I have not yet been
able to learn: but a similar pigment is made from the black scum of
the dye-pans, in places for dyeing black, and another kind is obtained
from charred fir-wood finely pulverized. The cuttle-fish (_sepia_)
likewise gives a black; but that however has nothing to do with the
present question. He remarks, in the last place, that every kind of
black pigment is improved, or rather the preparation of it completed,
by exposure to the sun[628]; that is to say, after gum has been added
to that intended for writing, and size to that destined for painting.
But that which was made with vinegar was more durable, and could not
be easily effaced by washing. All this is very true. Our ink acquires
a superior quality when exposed to the light of the sun in flat
vessels. That vinegar renders black colours faster, is well known to
our calico-printers; and those who wish to have good ink must employ in
making it the brightest vinegar of beer. It is equally true, that every
black pigment mixed up with gum or size can be sooner and easier washed
out again with water[629].
A considerable part of what has hitherto been quoted from Pliny, may
be found also in Vitruvius[630]. The latter, in like manner, mentions
huts for making lamp-black; he speaks also of ivory-black, and says
expressly, that when it is properly made it not only forms a good
colour and excellent ink, but approaches very near to _Indicum_.
Now I might here ask, whether it is at all probable that the learned
Pliny and the practical connoisseur of painting, the architect
Vitruvius, could consider and describe our blue indigo as a pigment
which, like lamp-black, could be employed as a black colour and
as ink? Is it credible that Pliny, if he meant blue indigo in the
before-mentioned passage, would have said that he was not able to
learn the preparation of it, when he expressly describes it, as he
believed it to be, in the course of a few lines further? Would Pliny
and Vitruvius, had they been acquainted with black indigo only, remark
immediately after, that, when costly indigo could not be obtained,
earth saturated with woad, consequently a blue earth, might be used in
its stead? Is not allusion here made to a blue pigment, as was before
to a black one? Is it not therefore evident, that the name of _Indicum_
was given to a black and also to a blue pigment brought from India? And
if this be the case, is it not highly probable that the black _Indicum_
was what we at present call Indian ink, which approaches so near to
the finest ivory-black, and black of wine lees, that it is often
counterfeited by these substances, a preparation of which is frequently
sold as Indian ink to unwary purchasers? Indian ink is in general use
in India, and has been so in all probability since the earliest ages.
In India all artificial productions are of very great antiquity; and
therefore I will venture to say, that it is not probable that Indian
ink is a new invention in India, although it may probably have been
improved, and particularly by the Chinese.
To confound the two substances, however, called indigo (_indicum_)
at that period was not possible, as every painter and dealer in
colours would know that there were two kinds, a blue and a black. It
has, nevertheless, occurred to me, that in the works of the ancients
obscurity may have sometimes been avoided by the addition of an
epithet; and I once thought I had found in Pliny an instance of this
foresight; that is, where he names all kinds of colours--_purpurissum_,
_Indicum cæruleum_, _melinum_, _auripigmentum_, _cerussa_[631]. I
conceived that in this passage our indigo was distinguished from
the black _indicum_ by the epithet _cæruleum_. But my joy at this
discovery was soon damped by Hardouin, who places between _Indicum_ and
_cæruleum_ a comma, which is not to be found in many of the oldest and
best editions. I cannot, therefore, get rid of this comma; for it is
beyond all dispute that _cæruleum_ was the common appellation of blue
copper ochre, that is, mountain blue. I shall now proceed to examine
whether my observation be true, that the Greeks frequently used the
term black _indicum_, when they meant to denote the black, and not the
blue.
The term _nigrum Indicum_ occurs in Arrian, Galen, Paulus Ægineta,
and perhaps in the works of other Greek physicians; and as the Latin
writers were acquainted with an _Indicum_ which dyed black, there is
reason to conjecture that this was the _Indicum nigrum_ of the Greeks,
though I should rather be inclined to translate this appellation by the
words Indian black, in the same manner as we may say Berlin blue, Roman
red, Naples yellow, Brunswick green, Spanish brown, &c.; or I should as
readily translate it Indian ink. Arrian introduces it along with other
Indian wares. I do not indeed find that he makes any mention of indigo
properly so called; but a complete catalogue of merchandise is not to
be expected from him. _Indicum_, however, occurs once more in this
author; but in the passage where it is found it is only an epithet to
another article. Speaking of cinnabar, he adds, that he means that kind
called Indian, which is obtained from a tree in the same manner as gum.
I am inclined to think that he alludes to dragon’s blood, which on
account of its colour was at that time called cinnabar.
Some have conjectured that what in Arrian is named _laccos chromatinos_
was our indigo, which indeed might be classed among the lakes,
according to the present meaning of that word. Others understand by it
gum-lac[632]. But I am unacquainted with any proofs that gum-lac was
known at so early a period. I much doubt whether this meaning of the
word lac be so old; and I must confess that the opinion of Salmasius
appears to me highly probable, namely, that Arrian alluded to a kind of
party-coloured garment: for besides the grounds adduced by Salmasius,
it deserves to be remarked, that in the passage in question different
kinds of clothes, and no other articles are mentioned. Besides, the
epithet _chromatinos_ is applied by the same writer, in the same sense,
to other kinds of clothing. It cannot therefore be said that Arrian
mentions our gum-lac, the origin of which word Salmasius endeavours to
discover.
In the works of Galen, which have not yet been sufficiently
illustrated, I have found _Indicum nigrum_ only four times. In a place
where he speaks of diseases of the eyes[633], he extols it on account
of its cleansing quality; and says it can be used for wounds, when
there is no inflammation. In another place[634], it occurs in three
prescriptions for eye-salves. I have however endeavoured, but without
success, to find in this excellent writer an explanation of what he
calls _Indicum_; though he has explained almost all the different
articles then used in the Materia medica. It appears therefore that the
Greeks gave the name of _Indicum_ to our indigo, and also to Indian
black or Indian ink.
It however cannot be denied that, in opposition to this opinion,
considerable doubts arise. Many who think that the black indigo
(_nigrum Indicum_) of Pliny and Vitruvius was not ink, but our
indigo, remark, that things of a dark blue or dark violet colour were
by the Greeks and the Romans frequently named black; and therefore
that the blue indigo might in this manner be called black[635]. But
the examples adduced as proofs are epithets applied by the poets
to dark-coloured flowers. Because nature produces no black flowers,
the poets, who are fond of everything uncommon, extraordinary, and
hyperbolic, call flowers black, when they are of so dark a tint as to
approach nearly to black. Thus clear and deep water is called black. It
is however hardly credible that painters and dyers, who must establish
an accurate distinction between colours, should have spoken in so vague
a manner. Salmasius suspects that _Nil_ and _Nir_, the Arabic names of
indigo, have arisen from the Latin word _niger_.
The objection, that Paulus Ægineta, the physician, in a passage where
he refers to Dioscorides for the medical virtues of _Indicum_, applies
to it the epithet black, seems to have more weight[636]. It may be
added also, that the virtues, in general, which Galen ascribes to the
_Indicum nigrum_, appear to be similar to those ascribed by Dioscorides
to _Indicum_; and the latter in one place[637], where he speaks of
the healing of wounds, uses only the expression _Indicum_, and not
_Indicum nigrum_. It is particularly worthy of remark, that Zosimus,
the chemist, declares the hyacinth colour of the ancients, that of
woad, and the _Indicum nigrum_, to be the same[638] or similar. But to
those who know on how slight grounds the ancient physicians ascribed
medicinal qualities to many substances, it will not perhaps appear
strange, that, in consequence of the same name, they should ascribe
the same qualities to two different things. It is not improbable
that in cases of external injury, for which the _Indicum nigrum_ was
recommended, indigo and Indian ink might produce as much or as little
effect. I should consider of far greater importance the opinion of the
chemist Zosimus; but unfortunately his writings have not yet been
printed. The period in which he lived is still uncertain, and it is not
known whether all the chemical manuscripts which bear that name were
written by the same author.
From what has been said, I think it may, at any rate, be inferred, that
in the time of Vitruvius and Pliny, indigo, as well as Indian ink, was
procured from India, and that both were named _Indicum_. It is less
certain that the Greeks called indigo _Indicum_, and Indian ink _Indian
black_. Nay, it appears that indigo, on account of the very dark blue
colour which it exhibits both when dry and in the state of a saturated
tincture, was often named Indian black. In my opinion, it is proved
also that, in the old dye-houses, the workmen collected the scum thrown
up by the dye-pans, and dried it into a kind of lake or carmine.
I shall now prove what I have already asserted, that indigo was at all
times used, and continued without interruption to be imported from
India. I shall quote mention made of it in various centuries; but I am
convinced that attentive readers may find instances where it occurs in
many other writers.
The Arabian physicians, it is probable, all speak of indigo; but it is
unfortunate that in this point we must depend upon very incorrect Latin
translations. It appears also that they often repeat the information
of the Greeks, in regard to articles of the Materia medica, without
having been acquainted with them themselves. Rhases, who lived at
the end of the tenth century[639], mentions, “Nil, alias Indicum.”
Avicenna, who died in 1036, often speaks of indigo[640]; but in the
margin of the wretched translation it is remarked, that under the term
_Indicum_, alum (or much rather green vitriol) is to be understood.
In a passage, however, where he speaks of dyeing the hair black, he
certainly alludes to indigo, which, according to the translation,
produced _colorem pavonaceum_, or a violet colour. In the Latin we find
“Indicum indum bonum,” and this awkward expression Salmasius explains
by remarking, that the words in the Arabic are _Alusma Alhendia_, that
is, Indian woad. In the same place he mentions _Indicum carmenum_, a
kind of indigo which did not dye so much a violet colour as a black,
that is to say with the addition of green vitriol. Carmania, indeed,
bordered on Gedrosia, which is the proper country of indigo, where the
best is still prepared at Guzerat. In the explanation of some Arabic
words, printed in my copy of Avicenna, _Indicum_ is translated _granum
Nil_. Serapion, about the end of the eleventh century, mixed together,
as appears, every thing that the Greeks have said in regard to indigo
and woad. Averroes, in the middle of the twelfth century, mentions the
medicinal qualities of indigo as given by the Greeks, and adds, that it
was much used for dyeing.
Muratori gives a treaty, written in Latin, of the year 1193, between
the citizens of Bologna and Ferrara, which contains a list of those
articles subject to pay duty. Among these occurs _indigum_[641]. In the
thirteenth century, the celebrated Marco Polo, who spent twenty-six
years in travelling through Asia, and even some parts of China, relates
that he saw indigo, which the dyers used, made in the kingdom of Coulan
or Coilum; and he describes the process for preparing it[642]. Much
curious information in regard to the trade with this article, in the
middle of the fourteenth century, is contained in the valuable work of
Francesco Balducei Pegolotti[643]. We there find the names of different
kinds, such as _Indaco di Baldacca detto buccaddeo_, in all probability
from Bagdad, a city which in many old books of travels is called
Baldach or Baldac; also _Indaco del Golfo_, _Indaco di Cipri_, _Indaco
Rifanti_. Indigo, at that time, was imported in hides (_cuojo_), or in
leather bags (_otre_), and also in boxes (_casse_). What this traveller
says in regard to the signs by which its goodness may be known, is
very remarkable. Nicolo Conti, who travelled through India before the
year 1444, mentions _endego_ among the merchandise of Camboia[644].
That the expression _color indicus_ was used in the middle ages to
denote blue mixed with violet, is proved by Du Cange. It appears to me
therefore highly improbable that indigo should not be known to Rosetti,
as Professor Bischof supposes[645]. In that important work on dyeing,
however, which I mentioned long ago[646], it occurs several times, and
always under the name _endego_.
I shall here make one observation, which is of some importance in
the history of dyeing. It is found that in the middle ages the Jews
maintained in the Levant a great many establishments for dyeing, and
were the principal people who carried on this branch of business.
Benjamin the Jew, who died in 1173, says in his travels, in speaking of
some places, that “a Jew lived there who was a dyer;” or he remarks,
in regard to others, that “most of the Jews followed the occupation of
dyeing.” A scarlet-dyer lived at Tarento, and a purple-dyer at Thebes.
At that period the Jews at Jerusalem had hired from the king a place
particularly well-fitted for dyeing, on the express condition that no
person besides themselves should be suffered to carry on there the
same business[647]. I am fully aware that well-founded doubts have
been entertained in regard to the credit which ought to be given to
Benjamin’s narration, and Jewish vanity is everywhere well-known; but
I do not see why he ought not to be believed in regard to this point;
for it may very naturally be asked, why he should have falsely ascribed
this occupation to his countrymen and no other? He speaks only once of
a Jew glass-maker, a woollen- and a silk-weaver. To this may be added,
that it is frequently stated in various authors, that the business
of dyeing was carried on in Italy by the Jews. Thus, in the eleventh
century, among the branches of revenue arising to the popes from
Benevento, mention is made of the taxes paid by the Jews on account of
their dye-houses. In the middle ages princes seem to have maintained
dye-houses on their own account. Instances occur of their giving away,
as presents, such establishments with all their apparatus[648]. A place
of this kind was called _tincta_, _tingta_, or _tintoria_. This dye
regale is to be deduced perhaps from the old establishments for dyeing
purple, which could be formed only by sovereigns, and not by private
individuals. Along with these _tinctæ_ the Jews are often mentioned,
so that it appears probable they were employed there as workmen.
There is reason therefore to conjecture that the Jews learned this
art in the East, and that they employed in Italy the same pigments
as were used in the dye-houses of the Levant. It is not improbable
also, that in the room of woad, which was then cultivated in Italy,
they introduced indigo, a substance richer in colouring matter, or at
any rate, rendered it more common. The Italians were the first people
in Europe who brought this art to a greater degree of perfection, as
they did many others; and it can be proved that the knowledge of it
was thence diffused to other countries. In the same proportion as this
took place, indigo, in my opinion, banished the native woad, which was
neither so advantageous, nor communicated so beautiful a colour as the
Italians were able to dye with the former. The use of it became more
extended when the productions of the East Indies were brought to Europe
by sea, and particularly after it could be obtained from America at a
much cheaper rate.
The first Portuguese ship, that commanded by Vasco de Gama, returned
from the East Indies in the year 1499, and was soon followed by several
more, all laden with the most valuable merchandise of the East. I
have never yet been able to find any invoice of the cargoes of these
vessels; and, unfortunately, we have no account of the early trade
carried on by the Portuguese with Indian productions. I have no means,
therefore, of proving that indigo was among the commodities first
imported. Spices, which in consequence of the general prevalence of
luxury, sold at that time exceedingly dear, together with precious
stones, formed, no doubt, the first articles of trade; but it is
not improbable that they were soon followed by indigo, for all the
travellers who about that period visited India, speak of it as one of
the most current articles.
Barbosa, a Portuguese, who collected there in 1516 valuable information
in regard to geography and trade, who afterwards accompanied Magelhaens
on his voyage round the world, and perished with him at the island of
Zebu, has given a price-current of the merchandise at Calecut, in which
the value of good indigo at that time is stated[649]. Corsali also, in
his letters written from India in 1516, mentions indigo among the wares
of Camboya. Louis Guicciardini, who wrote first in 1563, and died in
1589, speaking of the merchandise obtained by Antwerp from Portugal,
mentions _anil_ among that of the East Indies[650].
It is however certain that the trading company established in the
Netherlands in 1602, who learned at an early period the art of
rendering indispensably necessary to the Europeans cottons, tea, sago,
and other things of which they could always hope to find a sufficient
supply in India, carried on the greatest trade with these articles. The
first German writers who complain of indigenous woad being banished
by indigo, and those sovereigns who, by public orders, endeavoured to
prevent this change, ascribe the fault to the Netherlanders. Niska, who
wrote in 1630, says indigo had been introduced into Germany only thirty
years; and an order of the emperor Ferdinand III., dated 1654, says
that it had been imported into Germany from Holland some years before
that period.
That the importation at this time was very great, is proved by the
cargoes of the ships which arrived in Holland from the East Indies
in 1631. The first had 13,539 pounds of Sirches indigo; the second
82,734 pounds of Guzerat indigo; the third 66,996 pounds of the same;
the fourth 50,795 pounds of Bajano indigo; the fifth 32,251 pounds
of Chirches indigo; the sixth 59,698 pounds of Bejana indigo; and
the seventh 27,532 pounds of Chirches. I have mentioned these so
particularly, as one may thence see the different kinds, and the places
where made. These seven vessels, therefore, brought to Europe 333,545
pounds, which, at a low valuation, were worth five tons of gold, or
500,000 dollars. In the month of April 1633, three ships brought home
4092 _kartel_ of indigo, which were worth 2,046,000 rix-dollars.
The profit attending this trade induced people, soon after the
discovery of America, to manufacture indigo in that country; and
they were the more encouraged to do so by observing that the native
Americans, before they had the misfortune to become known to the
Christians, tinged their bodies and faces of a blue-violet colour, by
means of indigenous plants, which resembled the indigo plant of Asia.
Whether the two plants are of the same genus, or whether the American
is different from that used in the other quarters of the globe, has
not yet, as far as I can find, been with certainty determined[651]. It
is however proved, that the assertion of Raynal and others, that this
plant was first conveyed to the new world from Asia by the Europeans,
is entirely erroneous. It is mentioned by Francis Colon (or Columbus),
in the Life of his father[652], among the valuable productions of the
island of Hispaniola or St. Domingo. Francis Hernandes reckons it among
the natural plants of Mexico, and says that the Americans used it for
dyeing their hair black. He adds, that they made from it a pigment
which they named _Mohuitli_ and _Tleuohuilli_, the same as the Latins
named _cæruleum_, and he describes also the method of preparing it.
This is confirmed by Clavigero in his account of Mexico.
This plant therefore must be reckoned among the few which are
indigenous in three-quarters of the globe. It is, however, highly
probable that the Europeans, in the course of time, introduced a better
species or variety into America, where several kinds are actually
cultivated at present.
In the history of the American indigo, I must here leave a considerable
hiatus, which perhaps may be one day filled up from books of travels
and topography. All that I know at present is, that the first indigo
brought to Europe was procured from Guatimala, consequently from
Mexico, and that this article was supplied at first, and for a long
time, by none of the West India islands but St. Domingo alone.
Krunitz says[653], but on what authority I do not know, that Lopez
de Gomes relates, that in his time a very fine sky-blue colour was
prepared in Hispaniola. If the person here alluded to be Lopez de
Gomara, who accompanied Ferdinand Cortez as chaplain[654], this
would be the oldest testimony that could be expected, and would
correspond with the account given by Labat. But I shall leave the
further investigation of this subject to others, and observe, that the
cultivation of indigo was begun in Carolina in 1747, and according to
Anderson, was encouraged the year following by premiums.
This article, therefore, was brought from both the Indies to Europe,
and recommended itself so much by the superiority and richness of its
dye, by the facility with which it could be used, and the advantages
attending it, that it suddenly banished from all dye-houses the
European woad, which was cultivated, in particular, in Thuringia in
Germany, in Languedoc in France, and in the neighbourhood of Rieti
in the dominions of the church. At first, a small quantity of indigo
only was added to the woad, by which the latter was improved; more was
afterwards gradually used, and at last the quantity became so large,
that the small admixture of woad served only to revive the fermentation
of the indigo, but was not capable itself of communicating any colour.
It was soon observed that every yard of cloth could be dyed somewhat
cheaper when indigo was used along with woad, than when the latter was
employed alone, according to the ancient method. Germany then lost a
production by which farmers, merchants, carriers, and others, acquired
great riches.
In the sixteenth century people began, in many countries, to make
considerable improvements in dyeing. For this purpose, new dye-stuffs,
both indigenous and foreign, were subjected to experiment, and trials
were made with salts which had never before been employed. In this
manner dyers sometimes obtained colours which pleased by their novelty
and beauty; but it needs excite no surprise that many new methods of
dyeing did not produce the desired effect. Many communicated colours
which were agreeable to the eye, but they soon faded; and some rendered
the dyed cloth so tender that it soon rotted on the shopkeepers’
shelves. Governments conceiving it then necessary to do something for
the security of the purchaser, considered the imperfection of the art
as a premeditated deception; and as it was at that time supposed that
some pigments could give durable and genuine colours, and others fading
or false ones; and also that the pernicious effects of salts could not
be prevented or moderated, they, in general, prohibited the use of all
new materials from which hurtful consequences had been observed to
arise.
Legislators are neither almighty, omniscient, nor infallible. With the
best views, and a firm determination to discharge their duty, they may
recommend things hurtful, and prohibit others that might be attended
with advantage. Were their commands and prohibitions inviolable,
insuperable, and irresistible, they would often confine the progress of
the arts and sciences, and render useful inventions impossible. But the
people, when they have not entirely become machines, know how to elude,
even at great personal hazard, faulty regulations, and by prohibited
ways to obtain greater advantages than those which formed the object of
the orders issued by their government. This was the case in regard to
the art of dyeing in the sixteenth century.
A recess of the diet held in 1577, prohibited, under the severest
penalties, the newly invented pernicious, deceitful, eating, and
corrosive dye called the _devil’s dye_, for which vitriol and other
eating substances were used instead of woad. This prohibition was
renewed in 1594 and 1603, with the addition of this remark, that, in
consequence of the weight of the bad dyes, a pound of undyed silk for
sewing or embroidery would produce two or three pounds of dyed[655].
Allusion seems to be made here to black, which at that time was the
colour of the higher orders. It appears that at this period astringent
juices and green vitriol began to be used more than they had been
formerly, and cloth when too long boiled with these substances, becomes
exceedingly tender: black cloth is even sometimes spoilt in this manner
at present. It is also true that cloth receives the greatest addition
in weight when dyed black, and the next greatest when dyed blue. I am
not acquainted with accurate experiments in regard to the weight which
cloth acquires by dyeing; but one may safely assert, that it is stated
far too high in the recess of the diet. Fifteen ounces of raw silk
lose by that kind of scouring which the French call _décruement_, four
ounces; consequently white silk weighs eleven ounces, but after it is
dyed black its weight is increased to thirteen ounces. In general, a
black dye increases the weight of cloth a fifth more than bright dyes.
As indigo after this soon became common, and the sale of woad was
injured, the first prohibition against the former was issued by Saxony
in the year 1650; and because government well knew how much depends on
a name, when one wishes to render an object odious or estimable, the
prohibition was couched in terms which seemed to show that indigo was
included among those eating substances, termed in the recess already
mentioned _devil’s dyes_. In the year 1652, Duke Ernest the Pious
caused a proposal to be made to the diet by his envoy, Dr. Hœnnen,
that indigo should be entirely banished from the empire, and that an
exclusive privilege should be granted to those who dyed with woad. This
was followed by an imperial prohibition on the 21st of April 1654, in
which every thing ordered in regard to the _devil’s dyes_ is repeated,
with this addition, that great care should be taken to prevent the
private introduction of indigo, by which the trade in woad was
lessened, dyed articles injured, and money carried out of the country.
The elector took the earliest opportunity the same year to make known
and enforce this prohibition with great severity in his dominions[656].
The people of Nuremberg, who at that time cultivated woad, went still
further. They made a law that their dyers should annually take an oath
not to use indigo; and at present they are obliged to do the same
thing, though indigo is as necessary to them as to others; a most
indecent disregard to religion, which, however, is not without example.
In the French monarchy, where all offices were purchased and sold,
every counsellor of parliament, on his entrance, was obliged to swear
that he had not obtained his place by money, until at length some one
had the courage to refuse taking a false oath. Thus also in Germany
many placemen must swear that they will observe all the orders of
government, yet many of them are daily violated, and indeed cannot be
observed, or at any rate, not without great mischief and confusion.
What was done in Germany in regard to Thuringia, was done in France
in regard to Languedoc. In consequence of an urgent representation by
the states of that province, the use of indigo was forbidden in 1598;
and this prohibition was afterwards repeated several times. But in the
well-known edict of 1669, in which Colbert separated the fine from the
common dyers, it was stated that indigo should be used without woad;
and in 1737 dyers were left at liberty to use indigo alone, or to
employ a mixture of indigo and woad[657].
In England, where, I believe, woad was not at that time cultivated,
the first mention of indigo in the laws occurs in the year 1581, under
the reign of Elizabeth, not, however, on account of a blue but a black
dye. No woollen articles were to be dyed black with the gall-nut,
madder or other materials, till they had received the first ground, or
been rendered blue by woad, or woad and indigo together[658]. In like
manner it was long believed that no durable black could be produced
unless the article were first dyed in a blue pan. Hats also were not
considered to be properly dyed unless traces of a blue tint could be
discovered on the place where they were cut[659]. At present our dyers
can communicate a durable black without a blue ground, as well as dye
a fixed blue without woad; and in every part of Europe foreign indigo
will continue to be the most common material for dyeing, till its high
price render it necessary to obtain a similar pigment from indigenous
plants[660].
[The dye-stuff of indigo is obtained from the plant by allowing it to
ferment with water; during this process it subsides in the form of a
blue deposit, which is collected and dried. As it occurs in commerce,
it contains several impurities, such as lime, silica, alumina, and
oxide of iron, in addition to the colouring matters, which are three in
number, a brown, red and blue; as also some glutinous matter.
The chief localities of the indigo-plant at present are Bengal and
Guatimala, though of late years the exportation from the latter has
been materially checked by the disturbed state of Central America.
In the early period of our occupation of India, indigo formed a
leading branch of the Company’s trade; but the rude manufacture of
the native population was in the course of time expelled from the
markets of Europe by the more skilfully prepared drug of America and
the West Indies. Soon after the peace of 1783, the West Indian process
of manufacture was introduced into Bengal, and the directors having
relaxed their prohibitory system so far as to permit the application
of British capital and skill to the cultivation of the plant on the
alluvial depositions of the Ganges, the exportations were gradually
increased, and the American and West Indian indigo almost entirely
driven from the market. The manufacture was also introduced into
Oude and the other north-western districts of the great plain of the
Ganges; and in later periods into some of the Madras provinces, into
Java and the Philippine Islands. The indigo produced everywhere else
is, however, very secondary both in quantity and quality to that of
Bengal and Bahar, the soil and climate of which seem to be particularly
congenial to the plant. The average supply of indigo at present may
be estimated as follows:--Bengal provinces, 34,500 chests, or about
9,000,000 lbs.; other countries, including Madras and Guatimala, 8500
chests; total, 43,000 chests. Of this there are consumed in the United
Kingdom, 11,500 chests, or about 3,000,000 lbs.; France, 8000 chests;
Germany and the rest of Europe, 13,500 chests; Persia, 3500 chests;
India, 2500 chests; United States, 2000 chests; other countries,
2000 chests; total, 43,000 chests, or upwards of 11,000,000 lbs. The
quantity imported into the United Kingdom in 1840 amounted to 5,831,269
lbs., and the quantity entered for home consumption amounted to
3,011,990 lbs. Upwards of four-fifths of the imports are from the East
Indies; the remainder chiefly from the West Indies, Guatimala, Peru
and the Philippine Islands. The surplus imported beyond the quantity
consumed is re-exported to Germany, Russia, Italy, Holland and other
parts of the continent of Europe. France and the United States derive
their main supplies by direct importation from Calcutta.]