The party may go together to the restaurant, after an evening at the

theater for instance, or they may meet there for dinner or luncheon. If

the affair takes place at a hotel, the guests assemble in a public

parlor. Where the host is a man, a young woman should go under the

charge of her mother or other chaperon. It is bad form for a young girl

to take any meal at a restaurant with a young man alone. When a woman

has reached the age of thirty and is still unmarried, the strictness of

this rule is slightly relaxed in her favor. Custom permits her to lunch

or take afternoon tea with a young man who is her relative, or a friend

whom she knows well. But she must neither dine nor sup with him. At some

restaurants ladies are not admitted after a certain hour without a male

escort. Quiet, middle-aged women wishing to dine at some establishment

of good reputation in New York have been justly indignant when refused

permission to do so. The existence of this regulation shows us how

careful young women must be about the places where they dine. There are

quiet restaurants connected with family hotels where they can get their

dinner without exciting any remark.

At a ladies’ lunch the hostess leads the way to the dining-room, taking

with her the oldest or the most distinguished woman present. The entry

is without formality, as in the case of a luncheon in a private house.

At a dinner or supper the host goes in advance of his guests. If the

party consists of young people under the charge of a chaperon, he asks

her to sit at his right hand or opposite to him. If it consists of

married couples, he requests the eldest or the most distinguished lady

to take the place at his right. A woman does not stay alone at a hotel

unless she is no longer young, or unless she is in some business which

makes this necessary. She should endeavor to choose a quiet hostelry,

and to so dress and act as to avoid attracting attention. At some

hotels, ladies traveling without trunks are not received. The clerk at

the desk is usually a man of good judgment and experience. He “sizes up”

the persons asking for rooms, and if they seem to him undesirable

inmates for the hotel, they will be informed that everything is engaged.

The feminine guest, when traveling alone for the first time, may feel

some trepidation as she approaches a country inn or city hotel. She will

be reassured when she remembers that it is the business of the landlord

to entertain strangers, and that the living of every one in the

establishment depends upon his giving good service to the traveling

public. In a city hotel, there are hall-boys at every turn to show her

just where to go.

She enters the hotel by the ladies’ door, if there is one, and proceeds

at once to the desk. Here she inquires about rooms and prices, mentions

how long her stay is likely to be, and registers her name in the hotel

book. If she is a young woman, she receives any gentleman that may call

on her in the public parlor or reception-room, and avoids being out late

in the evening as much as possible. While all guests have a right to

complain of imperfections in service, etc., it is bad form to find fault

constantly about trivial matters. Some persons fancy that behavior of

this sort gives them an air of importance, whereas in reality it shows

that they are either selfish and querulous or lacking in experience. The

courteous traveler is a bit philosophical. He knows that delays will

sometimes occur and that every one cannot be waited upon first. He will

not allow himself to be imposed upon without making a remonstrance, but

he will not continually assert his rights. A lady traveling alone needs

to be especially careful about the manner in which she makes complaints

at a hotel. To hear a woman scold is unpleasant even in the family

circle, but in a public place it is lamentable. There voice and temper

alike must be kept under strict control.

Young girls do not, of course, stay at a hotel in the city or country

unless accompanied by mother or chaperon. At summer resorts they are

sometimes thoughtless about loud talk and laughter in the corridors and

lobbies of a hotel, and about sitting on the veranda in the company of

an agreeable youth until an unduly late hour. They are so carried away

by their high spirits, and are having such a delightful time, that they

forget how censorious the world is. They forget that in a public place

it is necessary to be quieter and more reserved in manner than in a

private house, and thus show that one understands and respects the laws

of good-breeding.

When staying at a hotel, one should be dressed well but not in a

conspicuous way. Ladies may wear their hats or not, as they find

convenient. Thus, if one were going out immediately after breakfast, one

would come down in a simply made street costume. Matinées and tea-gowns

are very charming in the privacy of home, but their informality makes

them inappropriate at a hotel. In summer, pretty tub dresses, which

please the beholder by their freshness and simplicity, are especially

becoming to young women. Older ladies wear gowns of the same material

made in a style suitable to their years, or appear in foulards, voiles,

or other thin stuffs. Elaborate costumes are not appropriate for the

morning. In winter a lady may come down to breakfast at a hotel in a

morning dress made all in one piece, or in a skirt of woolen stuff with

waist of silk, chiffon, or other thin material either white or of the

same color as the skirt.

For the afternoon a lady may retain her street suit, or she may put on a

handsomer one. If she is not going out she may prefer to wear a house

dress of more expensive material, and made in a more elaborate style,

than would be suitable in the morning. According to the present fashion,

such a gown would be cut down at the throat, with half-length sleeves.

Whether the sojourner at a hotel changes or does not change her gown in

the afternoon, she should do so for late dinner, since morning costume

would not then be appropriate. As we have already seen, a variety of

dress is permissible at these public places of entertainment, because

guests are arriving, departing, or going out for engagements of all

sorts. The general rule, however, to which there are some exceptions,

prescribes evening dress for the evening. At large and fashionable

hotels in New York, many of the women wear décolleté gowns. A lady

invited to a dinner party at one of these places would dress as she

would at a private house. In smaller cities, and at quieter hotels,

low-necked dresses are not so often seen.

If a lady intends to take an evening train she may, if she pleases,

appear at dinner in traveling hat and dress. If she is going to the

theater, opera-house, or concert-hall, she will wear the kind of costume

described in Chapter XII.

Correspondents sometimes ask what the proper dress is for Sunday evening

at a hotel. Opinions on this subject vary in accordance with people’s

religious views or inherited traditions. While the old-fashioned strict

observance of the Sabbath has been much relaxed both in England and in

America, the Puritan view of the day still strongly influences the

manners and customs of the country at large. Those who hold to it prefer

to dress quietly and to eschew low-necked gowns on Sunday evening. They

appear in costumes suitable to wear at church, even if they have no

intention of going there. There are many other people, especially in a

cosmopolitan city like New York, who hold no such view of the observance

of Sunday, and dress then as they would on any other day of the week.

Ladies always retain their hats in the daytime at a restaurant or

roof-garden. They remove their gloves on sitting down to table, and

throw back or take off their outer wraps. It is usually possible to

check these, but many people object to the delay involved. Women of good

taste prefer to dress quietly if they attend a dancing-tea at one of

these places, and thus avoid attracting special attention. At certain

restaurants an effort is made to compel all guests to wear evening

dress. This is merely copying an English fashion ill-suited to a

democratic country. At the Hotel Savoy in London they enforce such a

rule. An American lady who had reached the half-century limit, and did

not care to appear in public in a low-necked dress, went not long ago to

the restaurant there with a party of young friends. She wore a new and

expensive Paris dress and her handsomest jewels. The young people were

all in evening dress, but because the chaperon did not have on a

décolleté gown they were refused admission to the restaurant, and were

obliged to content themselves with dining in the grill-room! At the best

hotels in New York, such as Delmonico’s, the Astor, and the Plaza,

ladies may wear costumes with hats or full evening dress, as they find

most convenient. For afternoon dances at hotels and roof-gardens, men

usually come in business suits. After six o’clock evening dress is the

proper costume. The dinner-jacket, or informal evening dress, as it may

be called, is often worn for dancing at roof-gardens, because it is more

comfortable than the long-tailed dress-coat. It is also used for

unceremonious occasions at hotels and restaurants, as it would be

elsewhere (see Chapters IV and XII).

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XII

THEATER, OPERA, AND CONCERT-HALL

Arrangements for Formal and Informal Theater Parties—The Supper—The

Bachelor and His Duties as Host and as Guest—Dress and Behavior at the

Theater, Opera, and Concert-hall.

AN informal theater party may be an impromptu affair got up at short

notice. It may either be a Dutch treat, where every one pays for

himself, or one or more persons may act as hosts and invite the others

to go at their expense. If a gentleman and his wife ask another lady to

accompany them, they should either call for her or invite her to dine

with them. At the conclusion of the performance they should take her

home, or the husband alone could do so. It is not necessary to have a

carriage if the street-cars are near at hand. If two ladies living in

the same house are invited, the tickets may be sent to them, asking them

to meet their hosts at the theater. Unless they are very young women, it

will be proper for them to go together, whereas for a lady alone it

would not be quite pleasant to do so. When the concert or play is over,

the host will see them to their carriage or to the street-car. If the

hour is late, he will offer to escort them home. If they assure him that

they are not afraid to go alone, he will not insist upon doing so,

unless he believes this necessary for their protection. Two young and

pretty women are liable to annoyance from rude passers-by at a late hour

in the evening.

If a man wishes to take a young lady to the theater he must invite her

mother or other chaperon to be of the party. This is a safe and

excellent rule to follow, and few exceptions should be made to it. In

the case of cousins or old friends it is sometimes broken, especially if

the lady is not in her first youth. But young women should remember

that, as the world is very censorious, one who broke this rule often

would be the subject of unfavorable comment. A girl may, of course, go

to the theater with her brother. The gentleman may invite a married lady

to matronize the party, or he may ask the girl to choose her own

chaperon. He calls for both his guests; first for the matron, then for

the young lady. At the close of the performance he escorts them both to

their houses, leaving the younger woman first at her residence, and then

the elder one at hers. Where the chaperon has been provided by the girl,

the man may, if he prefers, send them the tickets and meet them at the

theater or concert-hall, waiting for them in the lobby. He would

certainly offer at least to escort them home, unless they were going in

a carriage. In this case he would content himself with asking the man at

the door to call it, or going to find it himself, should this be

necessary, and putting them safely into their own conveyance. He should

endeavor to find a sheltered place for them to stand pending the arrival

of the vehicle, and keep a sharp lookout himself lest the carriage lose

its place in the line and so make the ladies wait for an undue length of

time.

For a large and formal theater party, it is usual to invite the guests

to dinner, or to supper after the play or opera. In either case they

assemble at the house of the hostess, who provides an omnibus,

automobile, or other conveyance to take them to and from the playhouse.

She must name an hour early enough to enable the party to reach the

opera-house or theater in good season. If she asks her friends to dine

with her, she should for the same reason avoid a long bill of fare. The

guests should be careful to come punctually. Should any of them be

detained, they should telephone and ask the hostess not to wait for

them. To fail to keep an engagement for dinner is considered one of the

gravest social sins. How much worse it is to spoil a theater party in

addition by remaining away after promising to come!

The affair is more likely to go off well if the hostess introduces those

guests who do not already know one another. Wholesale introductions are

now thought awkward and undesirable; hence it is better to make the

presentations gradually, one or two at a time. Those who are to sit next

each other should certainly be introduced. It is well to plan beforehand

the seating of the guests. If the hostess has a party of young people

and is quite at a loss as to their preferences, she may like to consult

one of them beforehand on this important matter. To each man should be

handed two tickets. These may be inclosed in an envelope, with a card

bearing the name of the lady who is to sit next him at the theater. She

also receives an envelope containing the name of her theater partner.

This arrangement is convenient where many people go together. If the

party were to sit in a private box it would be unnecessary. There the

ladies sit in front, the gentlemen behind. The older women are offered

the best seats, but usually prefer to let the younger ones take the

places where they can see and be seen. At the close of the performance

the theater-carriage conveys all to their homes, leaving the women

guests first, the hostess next, the men last of all, although the latter

often choose to walk.

If there is to be a supper, it may be either at the house of the hostess

or at a restaurant of unblemished reputation. The meal may be simple or

elaborate. A course supper is very much like a dinner or luncheon,

except that it is less formal and the bill of fare is lighter and

daintier. Few people care to eat a heavy meal late in the evening. Raw

oysters or Little Neck clams, bouillon in cups, an entrée of some sort,

salad with or without game, ices, fruit, bonbons, and black coffee may

be served in the order named by those who care for a full menu. For a

theater party it is not necessary to offer such an elaborate bill of

fare. Oysters, cold chicken with salad, and ices are quite enough for

the hostess to provide. A chafing-dish supper produces much fun and

jollity among young people, or among those who know one another well. It

is not to be recommended for all sorts and conditions of men, however.

An informal meal of this sort would jar upon the taste of those persons

who like to have everything done according to conventional methods and

in a stereotyped fashion. The chafing-dish sets and stands now furnish

every convenience for preparing readily one or more hot dishes. Welsh

rarebit, oysters, lobster, eggs, and mushrooms are all excellent cooked

in this way, to say nothing of the more complicated dishes which require

an expert to handle successfully. Where the supper is given at the house

of the hostess, their maids call for the young ladies there, and it is

not necessary for her to send them home.

If a bachelor wishes to give a theater party, and to invite young women

to be his guests, he must engage some married lady of good social

position and of a certain age to act as chaperon. A young married woman

is sometimes as full of fun and high spirits as a girl. No one objects

to her natural gaiety if she keeps it within due bounds. But it is not

considered quite the thing for a woman of this sort to matronize young

girls. A chaperon should have the dignity which years and experience

bestow, though she need not be dull and stupid. The guests all meet at

the residence of this lady, the bachelor host arriving a little earlier

than the rest in order to receive his friends, to introduce them to the

chaperon, and to make such other introductions as the occasion demands.

People of moderate means go to the theater in the street-cars if the

evening is pleasant. The more elegant method is to provide a

theater-carriage; but not every bachelor can afford so much expense as

this would involve. He should, however, pay his guests’ fare, and for

this purpose it is well to buy car tickets beforehand. Otherwise another

man of the party may reach the ticket-booth first and purchase them

before the host has an opportunity to do so.

At the theater or concert-hall the ladies are permitted to pass through

the wicket first, the host standing on one side and showing the tickets.

He precedes the rest of the party going down the aisle to the seats, in

order to point out to all where they are to sit. It may be arranged to

have the chaperon go in first and take the innermost seat, or she may be

placed next the host, who sits nearest the aisle.

Our bachelor may take the party to a restaurant for supper, to his club

if this possesses a dining-room for ladies, or to his own apartment or

studio, should this be large enough and conveniently located. In either

of the first two cases the table should be engaged and the menu made out

beforehand. If supper is to be given in his own rooms, he should have

one or more competent persons to set the table, do any cooking that may

be necessary, and have all in readiness on the arrival of the party.

There should also be one or more servants to wait on the table, unless

the affair is an extremely informal one. The host leads the way to the

dining-room, all following without ceremony. The chaperon sits at his

right, or on the opposite side of the table. When supper is over he may

escort her, together with the young women, to her house, or the

theater-carriage may leave them at their houses, provided the matron of

the occasion is of the party and remains with it until all the young

girls have been taken to their respective residences. The host gets out

first, assists each of his fair guests in turn to alight, opens the door

for her with the latch-key or rings the bell, and does not leave her

until she has been admitted to the house. Where the theater party is

given by a lady, the gentleman sitting nearest the door of the

conveyance performs this service, unless there is a footman in

attendance.

Evening dress is the proper costume for men at all performances at the

opera, theater, and concert-hall that take place in the evening. This is

_de rigueur_ for a theater party, and at the grand opera under all

circumstances. For English opera and informal excursions to the theater,

the dinner-jacket is often worn. Indeed, our countrymen are very

independent in these matters and claim the right to dress as they

please. In Europe the rules are stricter. A gentleman of my acquaintance

once went to the opera in Paris, in the days of the old régime, wearing

an ordinary black coat. He was refused admission on the ground that

evening dress was necessary. Being a Yankee of an ingenious turn of

mind, he went out, procured a paper of pins, fastened up the offending

coat-tails into the required shape, and again presented himself at the

opera-house. The authorities, arguing doubtless that he had fulfilled

the letter of the law, admitted him, so admirable is the logic of the

Frenchman!

The proper costume for women at the theater and opera is evening dress.

At the grand opera in New York and other large cities, many ladies wear

décolleté gowns, together with a great deal of jewelry, although, as we

have said elsewhere, this is by no means a universal custom. All who sit

either in the boxes or in the orchestra seats appear in handsome

toilettes and wear long white or black kid gloves. A long evening wrap

made of silk, satin, or other expensive material forms an important part

of opera costume. One sees only a sprinkling of low-necked gowns at the

theater, American ladies usually preferring to appear there in dresses

either high-necked or only slightly cut down. Many wear a pretty,

light-colored, dressy waist with a dark skirt, since the latter shows

little, unless one is sitting in a private box. For a concert the

costume is the same as for the theater. Something will depend on the

season of the year, the nature of the occasion, and the locality. For a

special performance, with high-priced tickets, the costumes would be

more elaborate than for one with an ordinary programme.

Good form demands that we should always be mindful of the rights,

comfort, and pleasure of other people when we attend a theatrical or a

musical performance. The persons composing the audience have paid for

their seats, in the great majority of cases at least, and it is

extremely ill-bred to interfere with their pleasure by talking or

laughing. The men and women who fancy that it is smart to do so show

themselves lacking in true politeness. One should endeavor to be

punctual, in order not to disturb one’s neighbors after the curtain has

gone up or the music has begun. Some one has to come last, of course,

and the earlier arrivals should stand up and allow the seats of their

chairs to fold back in order to allow people to pass by them with as

little discomfort as possible. A man sitting next the aisle should step

into it when a lady is about to pass in. It is courteous but not

obligatory for the latter to do the same thing. Those who arrive after

the performance has begun should remove their wraps before they go to

their seats, in order not to obscure their neighbor’s view of the stage

while they are doing so. They must also be careful not to disturb the

latter by rising or bustling about toward the end of the play. The going

in and out between the acts is rather trying to those who are obliged to

rise constantly in order to let others pass by. Hence, unless one has an

aisle seat, it is best to go out only once in the course of the evening.

Where a large number of the audience do so, as at the opera, the case is

different. The walking up and down the foyer and the corridors, the

consuming of ices and lemonade, are often a part of the regular

programme. One should be careful to return to one’s seat when the

warning-bell rings.

It is now thoroughly understood that all ladies should remove their hats

at the theater, opera, and concert-hall. Occasionally they are kind

enough to do so at a lecture. A man who is with a party of ladies may

excuse himself for a short absence, if he sees some one to whom he

wishes especially to speak. But if he should do so often, he would be

thought neglectful and lacking in courtesy by the members of his party.

If he is acting as escort to one lady, he should not leave her in order

to speak to any one else, unless another man should come to talk to her,

in which case he could excuse himself, but should return before the

curtain rises again.

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● Transcriber’s note:

○ Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected.

○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.

○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only

when a predominant form was found in this book.

Good Form for All Occasions A Manual of Manners, Dress and Entertainment for Both Men and Women · 第 9 / 9 段