TRIP TO ÆGINA--DISCOVERY AND TRANSPORTATION OF THE MARBLES TO
ATHENS--EFFORTS TO SELL THEM.
"I told you we were going to make a tour in the Morea, but before doing
so we determined to see the remains of the temple at Ægina, opposite
Athens, a three hours' sail. Our party was to be Haller, Linckh, Foster,
and myself. At the moment of our starting an absurd incident occurred.
There had been for some time a smouldering war between our servants and
our janissary. When the latter heard that he was not to go with us, it
broke out into a blaze. He said it was because the servants had been
undermining his character, which they equally angrily denied. But he was
in a fury, went home, got drunk, and then came out into the street and
fired off his pistols, bawling out that no one but he was the legitimate
protector of the English. For fear he should hurt some one with his
shooting, I went out to him and expostulated. He was very drunk, and
professed to love us greatly and that he would defend us against six or
seven or even eight Turks; but as for the servants, 'Why, my soul,' he
said, 'have they thus treated me?' I contrived, however, to prevent his
loading his pistols again, and as he worked the wine off, calm was at
length restored; but the whole affair delayed us so long that we did not
walk down to the Piræus till night. As we were sailing out of the port
in our open boat we overtook the ship with Lord Byron on board. Passing
under her stern we sang a favourite song of his, on which he looked out
of the windows and invited us in. There we drank a glass of port with
him, Colonel Travers, and two of the English officers, and talked of the
three English frigates that had attacked five Turkish ones and a sloop
of war off Corfu, and had taken and burnt three of them. We did not stay
long, but bade them 'bon voyage' and slipped over the side. We slept
very well in the boat, and next morning reached Ægina. The port is very
picturesque. We went on at once from the town to the Temple of Jupiter,
which stands at some distance above it; and having got together workmen
to help us in turning stones, &c., we pitched our tents for ourselves,
and took possession of a cave at the north-east angle of the platform on
which the temple stands--which had once been, perhaps, the cave of a
sacred oracle--as a lodging for the servants and the janissary. The seas
hereabouts are still infested with pirates, as they always have been.
One of the workmen pointed me out the pirate boats off Sunium, which is
one of their favourite haunts, and which one can see from the temple
platform. But they never molested us during the twenty days and nights
we camped out there, for our party, with servants and janissary, was too
strong to be meddled with. We got our provisions and labourers from the
town, our fuel was the wild thyme, there were abundance of partridges to
eat, and we bought kids of the shepherds; and when work was over for the
day, there was a grand roasting of them over a blazing fire with an
accompaniment of native music, singing and dancing. On the platform was
growing a crop of barley, but on the actual ruins and fallen fragments
of the temple itself no great amount of vegetable earth had collected,
so that without very much labour we were able to find and examine all
the stones necessary for a complete architectural analysis and
restoration. At the end of a few days we had learnt all we could wish to
know of the construction, from the stylobate to the tiles, and had done
all we came to do.
But meanwhile a startling incident had occurred which wrought us all to
the highest pitch of excitement. On the second day one of the
excavators, working in the interior portico, struck on a piece of Parian
marble which, as the building itself is of stone, arrested his
attention. It turned out to be the head of a helmeted warrior, perfect
in every feature. It lay with the face turned upwards, and as the
features came out by degrees you can imagine nothing like the state of
rapture and excitement to which we were wrought. Here was an altogether
new interest, which set us to work with a will. Soon another head was
turned up, then a leg and a foot, and finally, to make a long story
short, we found under the fallen portions of the tympanum and the
cornice of the eastern and western pediments no less than sixteen
statues and thirteen heads, legs, arms, &c. (another account says
seventeen and fragments of at least ten more), all in the highest
preservation, not 3 feet below the surface of the ground.[19] It seems
incredible, considering the number of travellers who have visited the
temple, that they should have remained so long undisturbed.
It is evident that they were brought down with the pediment on the top
of them by an earthquake, and all got broken in the fall; but we have
found all the pieces and have now put together, as I say, sixteen entire
figures.
The unusual bustle about the temple rapidly increased as the news of our
operations spread. Many more men than we wanted began to congregate
round us and gave me a good deal of trouble. Greek workmen have pretty
ways. They bring you bunches of roses in the morning with pretty wishes
for your good health; but they can be uncommonly insolent when there is
no janissary to keep them in order. Once while Foster, being away at
Athens, had taken the janissary with him, I had the greatest pother with
them. A number that I did not want would hang about the diggings, now
and then taking a hand themselves, but generally interfering with those
who were labouring, and preventing any orderly and businesslike work. So
at last I had to speak to them. I said we only required ten men, who
should each receive one piastre per day, and that that was all I had to
spend; and if more than ten chose to work, no matter how many they might
be, there would still be only the ten piastres to divide amongst them.
They must settle amongst themselves what they would choose to do. Upon
this what did the idlers do? One of them produced a fiddle; they settled
into a ring and were preparing to dance. This was more than I could put
up with. We should get no work done at all. So I interfered and stopped
it, declaring that only those who worked, and worked hard, should get
paid anything whatever. This threat was made more efficacious by my
evident anger, and gradually the superfluous men left us in peace, and
we got to work again.
It was not to be expected that we should be allowed to carry away what
we had found without opposition. However much people may neglect their
own possessions, as soon as they see them coveted by others they begin
to value them. The primates of the island came to us in a body and read
a statement made by the council of the island in which they begged us to
desist from our operations, for that heaven only knew what misfortunes
might not fall on the island in general, and the immediately surrounding
land in particular, if we continued them. Such a rubbishy pretence of
superstitious fear was obviously a mere excuse to extort money, and as
we felt that it was only fair that we should pay, we sent our dragoman
with them to the village to treat about the sum; and meanwhile a boat
which we had ordered from Athens having arrived, we embarked the marbles
without delay and sent them off under the care of Foster and Linckh,
with the janissary, to the Piræus, and from thence they were carried up
to Athens by night to avoid exciting attention. Haller and I remained to
carry on the digging, which we did with all possible vigour. The marbles
being gone, the primates came to be easier to deal with. We completed
our bargain with them to pay them 800 piastres, about 40l., for the
antiquities we had found, with leave to continue the digging till we had
explored the whole site. Altogether it took us sixteen days of very hard
work, for besides watching and directing and generally managing the
workmen, we had done a good deal of digging and handling of the marbles
ourselves; all heads and specially delicate parts we were obliged to
take out of the ground ourselves for fear of the workmen ruining them.
On the whole we have been fortunate. Very few have been broken by
carelessness. Besides all this, which was outside our own real business,
we had been taking measurements and making careful drawings of every
part and arrangement of the architecture till every detail of the
construction and, as far as we could fathom it, of the art of the
building itself was clearly understood by us. Meanwhile, after one or
two days' absence, Foster and Linckh came back; and it then occurred to
us that the receipt for the 800 piastres had only been given to the
names of Foster and myself (who had paid it), and Linckh and Haller
desired that theirs should be added. Linckh therefore went off to the
town to get the matter rectified. But this was not so easy. The lawyer
was a crafty rogue, and pretending to be drunk as soon as he had got
back the receipt into his hands, refused to give it up, and did not do
so until after a great deal of persuasion and threatening. When we fell
in with him at dinner two days later he met us with the air of the most
candid unconcern. It was at the table of a certain Chiouk aga who had
been sent from Constantinople to receive the rayah tax. Linckh had met
him in the town when he went about the receipt, and the Chiouk had paid
us a visit at the temple next day and dined with us, eating and
especially drinking a great deal. A compliment he paid us was to drink
our healths firing off a pistol. I had to do the same in return. The
man had been to England, and even to Oxford, and had come back with an
odd jumble of ideas which amused us but are not worth repeating. Next
day, as I have said, we dined with him and the rogue of a lawyer. He was
very hospitable. Dinner consisted mainly of a whole lamb, off which with
his fingers he tore entire limbs and threw them into our plates, which
we, equally with our fingers, _à la Turque_, ate as best we could. We
finished the evening with the Albanian dance, and walked up home to our
tent."
The whole party with their treasures got back to Athens on the 9th or
10th of May 1811, and on the 13th he writes:
"We are now hard at work joining the broken pieces, and have taken a
large house for the purpose. Some of the figures are already restored,
and have a magnificent effect. Our council of artists here considers
them as not inferior to the remains of the Parthenon, and certainly only
in the second rank after the torso of the Vatican and other _chefs
d'oeuvre_. We conduct all our affairs with respect to them in the utmost
secrecy, for fear the Turk should either reclaim them or put
difficulties in the way of our exporting them. The few friends we have
and consult are dying with jealousy, and one[20] who had meant to have
farmed Ægina of the Captain Pasha has literally made himself quite ill
with fretting. Fauvel, the French consul, was also a good deal
disappointed; but he is too good a fellow to let envy affect his
actions, and he has given excellent help and advice. The finding of such
a treasure has tried every character concerned with it. He saw that this
would be the case, and for fear it should operate to the prejudice of
our beautiful collection, he proposed our signing a contract of honour
that no one should take any measures to sell or divide it without the
consent of the other three parties. This was done. It is not to be
divided. It is a collection which a king or great nobleman who had the
arts of his country at heart should spare no effort to secure; for it
would be a school of art as well as an ornament to any country. The
Germans have accordingly written to their ministers, and I have written
to Canning; while Fauvel, who has a general order for the purpose from
his minister, will make an offer to us on the French account. I had
hoped that Lord Sligo would have offered for it; but our Germans, who
calculate by the price of marbles in Rome, have named such a monstrous
figure that it has frightened him. They talk of from 6,000l. to 8,000l.;
but as we are eager that they should go to our museum, Foster and I have
undertaken to present our shares if the marbles go to England, and I
have written to Canning to say so. It would make a sensible deduction.
The whole matter is still full of uncertainties, for the Turks may give
us a good deal of trouble. But one thing seems clear--that these marbles
may detain me here much longer than I proposed to stop; and though we
have agreed not to divide the collection, it may come to that if we
cannot get away without; and if we can get them to England, even
Foster's and my portions would make a noble acquisition to the museum.
We have been very busy getting the marbles into order, that Lord Sligo
might be able to see them before leaving. He takes this letter with
him."
It was shortly after this, viz. on June 13, that Messrs.
Gaily-Knight[21] and Fazakerly arrived in Athens from Egypt and made an
offer, which was to buy out Messrs. Haller and Linckh's shares in the
marbles for 2,000l., and then, in conjunction with Mr. Foster and my
father, to present the whole to the British Museum.
The offer unfortunately could not be accepted, as it did not come up to
the price demanded by the Germans.
FOOTNOTES:
[19] Only fifteen statues were pieced together by Thorwaldsen and
Wagner, but there were numerous fragments besides those used by them,
which are still the subject of conjectural restorations.
[20] I suppose Lusieri.--ED.
[21] Henry Gally-Knight (1786-1846), M.P., writer of several works on
architecture.