_Imprimis._—Have nothing to do with them until you are an excellent
judge between the true and false. That sounds somewhat like the advice
of the careful mother to her son, touching the wisdom of never going
near the water until he learned how to swim—but the caution can hardly
be stated too strongly. Not being ambitious of martyrdom, even in the
cause of gastronomical enterprise, especially if the instrument is to
be a contemptible, rank-smelling fungus, I never eat or cook native
mushrooms; but I learned, years ago, in hill-side rambles, how to
distinguish the real from the spurious article. Shun low, damp, shady
spots in your quest. The good mushrooms are most plenty in August
and September, and spring up in the open, sunny fields or commons,
after low-lying fogs or soaking dews. The top is a dirty white,—_par
complaisance_, pearl-color,—the under side pink or salmon, changing to
russet or brown soon after they are gathered. The poisonous sport all
colors, and are usually far prettier than their virtuous kindred. Those
which are dead-white above and below, as well as the stalk, are also to
be let alone.
Cook a peeled white onion in the pot with your mushrooms. If it turn
black, throw all away, and be properly thankful for your escape. It is
also deemed safe to reject the mess of wild pottage, if in stirring
them, your silver spoon should blacken. But I certainly once knew a
lady who did not discover until hers were eaten and partially digested,
that the silver had come to grief in the discharge of duty. It was
very dark, and required a deal of rubbing to restore cleanliness and
polish; but the poison—if death were, indeed, in the pot—was slow in
its effects, since she lived many years after the experiment. It is as
well perhaps, though, not to repeat it too often.
To re-capitulate.—The eatable ones are round when they first show their
heads in a critical world. As they grow, the lower part unfolds a
lining of salmon fringe, while the stalk and top are dirty white. When
the mushroom is more than twenty-four hours old, or within a few hours
after it is gathered, the salmon changes to brown. The skin can also be
more easily peeled from the edges than in the spurious kinds.