There are many varieties of this vegetable, but the general rules
for cooking them are the same. Unless they are extremely tender, it
is best to pare them, cutting away as little as possible besides the
hard outer rind. Take out the seeds, when you have quartered them,
and lay the pieces in cold water. Boil until tender throughout. Drain
well, pressing out all the water; mash soft and smooth, seasoning with
butter, pepper, and salt. Do this quickly, that you may serve up hot.