It is possible for you to learn to make all of the tools you may need
to use, including hammers. And not only will you be able to make
blacksmiths' tools, but such as are used by carpenters, bricklayers,
stone-masons, machinists, etc. You must not expect to be able to do
this work at first, but in a little while you will be able to replace
your first working tools with those of your own make. From time to
time, as the tools break or wear out, you can repair them or replace
them with new ones. This gives excellent practice in forging and
handling steel, and prepares you for more and more advanced work, an
experience necessary for doing any work well.
_Steel:_ There are many different grades of steel, depending upon the
percentage of carbon contained in each. Steel low in carbon can be
easily welded but cannot be tempered. Carbon steel is very difficult to
weld and it can be done only by the use of borax or some other flux.
High carbon steel or so-called tool steel, can be tempered. It is used
for making cold chisels, files, drills, cutting tools, etc. _Crucible
steel:_ All tools are made from crucible cast steel. The cast steel is
made by placing in a graphite crucible a certain amount of wrought iron
and soft steel, and carbon is added in the form of manganese. These are
all melted in furnaces. When melted they are poured into ingots and
drawn or shaped to sizes for the market under different kinds of power
hammers. These various size bars are used for the making of all kinds
of tools. The tools we are going to make are (1) centre-punch, (2) cold
chisel, (3) cape chisel, and (4) lathe tools. There are five lathe
tools; (1) round nose, (2) diamond point, (3) side tool, (4) cutting
off or parting tool, (5) inside or boring tool.
[Illustration: Centre-punch]
_Centre-punch:_ You will find the centre-punch a most useful tool to
have on hand. It is used for marking centres before drilling holes,
starting points in work, etc. A small one is made out of a piece of
3/8-in. hexagonal tool steel, 3 ins. long. Put one end into the fire
and taper it 3/8 in. long to 1/4 in. in diameter, as shown in the
sketch. Make this end flat. Put the other end into the fire and draw
it into a sharp tapered round point to about 1/16 in. on the end.
This extreme point is ground to a very sharp point. The angles of the
extreme should be about 45°. This is hardened and tempered a blue
colour. Then it is ready for use.
[Illustration: Cold Chisel]
_Cold chisel:_ Cold chisels are usually made out of 5/8-in. hexagonal
tool steel, 6 in. long. The form and dimensions are given here.
Heat one end of the bar and place it upon the anvil. Draw it out for
the short end. This is the part upon which the hammering is done when
the tool is finished. The surplus stock is cut off with a hot chisel
and the short end is flattened. When cutting tool steel of any kind
the chisel should be very sharp and the steel red hot. Put the other
end of the bar into the fire, beginning back about 2-1/2 ins. from the
end. Flatten it down to a chisel shape, as shown in the drawing. Cut
the surplus stock off, harden and temper as explained before for the
cold chisel.
[Illustration: Cape chisel]
_Cape chisel:_ The drawing gives the form and the dimensions. The small
end of this tool is forged out in the same way as you forged the small
end of the cold chisel. Reverse the bar and heat the other end. Two
inches back from the end fuller the metal down as shown in the drawing.
Draw it out tapering. This end, too, is cut off, hardened and tempered
as you did the cold chisel. Cape chisels are used mostly for cutting
key ways in shafting. The point being wider than the rest of the blade
gives clearance while cutting.