[Illustration]
_Material:_ One piece of copper, No. 20, 7 × 7 ins. One piece 4 × 4
ins. (for lid). One piece 3/8 in. wide and long enough to go around the
opening of the vase or jar.
_Tools:_ Round stake, anvil stake, driving and planishing hammers,
dividers, and shears.
_Design:_ Vase, having a base 2-1/2 ins. in diameter, height 3 ins.,
3-1/2-in. opening at the top, and lid to fit. The full height of the
vase is 4-1/2 ins.
[Illustration: First operation]
[Illustration: Second operation]
[Illustration: Third operation]
_Directions:_ Take the 7 × 7-in. piece of copper and draw a 7-in.
circle. With the dividers set 1-1/4 in., using the same centre,
describe a circle. This outlines the 2-1/2-in. circle for the base.
Drive up this disc as you did the one for the copper bowl on the wood
block, making it as deep as possible. In the same way as you flattened
the bottom of the copper bowl, flatten the bottom of this piece of
work. Place the bowl over the round head stake. With your hammer drive
on the outside. This driving with the hammer on the outside decreases
the diameter and increases the length. You will remember that the
copper bowl was driven up almost entirely by the use of the raising
hammer on the _inside_ and finished by work on the outside with the
planishing hammer. This vase or jar calls for the shaping hammer. The
vase is placed over the round stake and driven into shape by work on
the _outside_ with the shaping hammer. When the rough bowl shape is
on the round head stake, drive the sides straight, beginning the
strokes at the line of the base circle. Repeat till the sides begin
to straighten and take the shape of the design. Take it off the round
stake and place it on the anvil stake.
When the sides are symmetrical, mark with lead-pencil a line 3/4 of an
inch from the top. Work the copper above this line, over toward the
centre, until the opening of the vase is about 3-1/2 ins. in diameter.
Smooth the work up with a planishing hammer. If the hammer marks made
by driving the bowl into shape are carefully done they leave a very
beautiful mottled surface of themselves.
[Illustration: Rim]
[Illustration: Binding the flange to rim to solder]
_To make the rim for the lid to rest upon:_ Take the 3/8-in. strip of
metal. Bend it into a circle small enough to fit on the opening left
at the top of the vase. Be careful to have this just to fit, otherwise
much filing will have to be done, and in this position filing is almost
impossible. Cut it the right length, scrape both ends, and solder. Make
it perfectly level so that it lies flat when placed upon the bench.
Test it by placing it upon the top of the vase. File the top flat,
bind the rim in place. Wash, then place bits of solder all around it
and heat it until the solder runs. Cool off in water, file off all
rough edges left by the solder, clean and polish.
[Illustration: Bending flange on the lid]
_Lid:_ Take the 4 × 4-in. piece. Cut a 4-in. circle. Place the bowl
upside down upon this disc, draw with a pencil all around the rim on
this copper plate. This marks the diameter of the rim on the plate,
also the line where the copper should be bent to form the lid to fit
the rim.
With the anvil stake in the vise, place the disc against the sharp end
of the stake, with the line on the edge. Drive with the raising hammer
against the part projecting above the stake. Turn the disc, keeping the
circle line on the sharp edge of the stake. Repeat this till the sides
are at right angles to the top. Place the lid upside down on a wooden
block, drive on the inside, shaping it like the drawing. Make it fit
the rim, trim off the rough edges, file up smooth, and polish.
Do not forget constant annealing, for you know hammering always makes
the metal hard.