usually exclusively employed in the propagation of stone fruits, as
cherries, peaches, plums, apricots, for experience has proved that it is
preferable to other forms of grafting. It may also be employed for other
fruit trees.
[Illustration: _Fig. 270. The bud tied._]
How is a peach tree made? In 1898 a pit or seed is saved. In the spring
of 1899 it is planted. The young tree comes up quickly. In August, 1899,
the little stock has one bud--of the desired variety--inserted near the
ground. In the spring of 1900 the stock is severed just above the bud:
the bud throws out a shoot which grows to a height of four or six feet;
and in the fall of 1900 the tree is sold. It is known as a year-old
tree; but the root is two years old.
How is an apple tree made? The seed is saved in 1898, planted in 1899.
The seedlings do not grow so rapidly as those of the peach. At the end
of 1899 they are taken up and sorted; and in the spring of 1900 they are
planted. In July or August, 1900, they are budded. In the spring of 1901
the stock is cut off above the bud; and the bud-shoot grows three or
four feet. In 1902 the shoot branches, or the top begins to form; and in
the fall of 1902 the tree may be sold as a two-year-old, although most
persons prefer to buy it in 1903 as a three-year-old. In some parts of
the country, particularly in the west, the little seedling is grafted in
the winter of 1899-1900 in a grafting-room; and the young grafts are set
in the nursery row in the spring of 1900, to complete their growth.
I have now given my reader an elementary lesson in horticulture; but I
shall consider it of little avail if it is not transformed into
practice for the children. February is the gardener's time for the
starting of his cutting-beds, in which to grow plants for the summer
bloom. Ask the children to bring the old geraniums and fuchsias and
coleus, and other favorites. Keep them in a warm window; cut them back;
see that they are well watered; then take the cuttings when the time
comes. The children will be interested to watch the fortunes of the
different cuttings. They will be interested in Vergil's couplet, as set
to rhyme in old-fashioned English:
Some need no root, nor doth the Gardner doubt,
That Sprigs though headlong set, will timely sprout.
LEAFLET XXXVIII.
A CHILDREN'S GARDEN.[52]
BY L. H. BAILEY.
[52] Teachers' Leaflet No. 4, April, 1897.
[Illustration]
We want every school child in the State to grow a few plants. We want
every one of them to learn something of why and how plants grow; and the
best and surest way to learn is to grow the plants and to watch them
carefully. We want everyone to become interested in everything that
lives and grows. It does not matter so very much just what kinds of
plants one grows as it does that he grows something and grows it the
best that he knows how. We want the children to grow these plants for
the love of it,--that is, for the fun of it,--hence we propose that they
grow flowers; for when one grows pumpkins and potatoes, and such things,
he is usually thinking of how much money he is going to make at the end
of the season. Yet, we should like some rivalry in the matter in every
school, and we therefore propose that a kind of a fair be held at the
school-house next September, soon after school begins, so that each
child may show the flowers which he has grown. What a jolly time that
will be!
Now, we must not try to grow too many things or to do too much.
Therefore, we propose that you grow sweet peas and China asters. They
are both easy to grow, and the seeds are cheap. Each one has many
colors, and everybody likes them. Now let us tell you just how we should
grow them.
_1. The place._--Never put them--or any other flowers--in the middle of
the lawn,--that is, out in the center of the yard. They do not look well
there, and the grass roots run under them and steal the food and the
moisture. I am sure that you would not like to see a picture hung up on
a fence-post. It has no background, and it looks out of place. The
picture does not mean anything when hung in such a spot. In the same
way, a flower bed does not mean anything when set out in the center of
a lawn. We must have a background for it, if possible,--a wall upon
which to hang it. So we will put the flower bed just in front of some
bushes or near the back fence, or alongside the smoke-house, or along
the walk at the side of the house, or in the back yard. The flowers will
not only look better in such places, but it will not matter so much if
we make a failure of our flower bed; there are always risks to run, for
the old hen may scratch up the seeds, the cow may break into the yard
some summer night, or some bug may eat the plants up.
Perhaps some of the children may live so near to the school-house that
they can grow their plants upon the school grounds, and so have sweet
peas and asters where there are usually docks and smartweeds. Grow them
alongside the fence, or against the school-house if there is a place
where the eaves will not drip on them.
_2. How to make the bed._--Spade the ground up deep. Take out all the
roots of docks and thistles and other weeds. Shake the dirt all out of
the sods and throw the grass away. You may need a little manure in the
soil, especially if the land is either very hard or very loose and
sandy. But the manure must be very fine and well mixed into the soil. It
is easy, however, to make sweet pea soil so rich that the plants will
run to vine and not bloom well.
Make the bed long and narrow, but not narrower than three feet. If it is
narrower than this the grass roots will be likely to run under it and
suck up the moisture. If the bed can be got at on both sides it may be
as wide as five feet.
Sow the seeds in little rows crosswise the bed. The plants can then be
weeded and hoed easily from either side. If the rows are marked by
little sticks, or if a strong mark is left in the earth, you can break
the crust between the rows (with a rake) before the plants are up. The
rows ought to be four or five inches further apart than the width of a
narrow rake.
_3. How to water the plants._--I wonder if you have a watering-pot? If
you have, put it where you cannot find it; for we are going to water
this garden with a rake! We want you to learn, in this little garden,
the first great lesson in farming,--how to save the water in the soil.
If you learn that much this summer, you will know more than many old
farmers do. You know that the soil is moist in the spring when you plant
the seeds. Where does this moisture go to? It dries up,--goes off into
the air. If we could cover up the soil with something, we should prevent
the moisture from drying up. Let us cover it with a layer of loose, dry
earth! We will make this covering by raking the bed every few
days,--once every week anyway, and oftener than that if the top of the
soil becomes hard and crusty, as it does after a rain. Instead of
pouring water on the bed, therefore, we will keep the moisture in the
bed.
If, however, the soil becomes so dry in spite of you that the plants do
not thrive, then water the bed. Do not _sprinkle_ it, but _water_ it.
Wet it clear through at evening. Then in the morning, when the surface
begins to get dry, begin the raking again to keep the water from getting
away. Sprinkling the plants every day or two is one of the surest ways
to spoil them.
_4. When and how to sow._--The sweet peas should be put in just as soon
as the ground can be dug, even before frosts are passed. Yet good
results can be had if the seeds are put in as late as the 10th of May.
In the sweet pea garden at Cornell last year, we sowed the seeds on the
20th of April. This was about right. The year before, we sowed them on
the 30th. If sown very early, they are likely to bloom better, but they
may be gone before the middle of September. The blooming can be much
prolonged if the flowers are cut as soon as they begin to fade.
Plant sweet peas deep,--two or three or sometimes even four inches. When
the plants are a few inches high, pull out a part of them so that they
will not stand nearer together than six inches in the row. It is a good
plan to sow sweet peas in double rows,--that is, put two rows only five
or six inches apart,--and stick the brush or place the chicken-wire
support between them.
China asters may be sown from the middle of May to the first of June. In
one large test at Cornell, we sowed them the 4th of June, and had good
success; but this is rather later than we would advise. The China asters
are autumn flowers, and they should be in their prime in September and
early October.
Sow the aster seed shallow,--not more than a half inch deep. The tall
kinds of asters should have at least a foot between the plants in the
row, and the dwarf kinds six to eight inches.
Sometimes China asters have rusty or yellow spots on the undersides of
their leaves. This is a fungous disease. If it appears, have your father
make some ammoniacal carbonate of copper solution and then spray them
with it; or Bordeaux mixture will do just as well or better, only that
it discolors the leaves and flowers.
_5. What varieties to choose._--In the first place, do not plant too
much. A garden which looks very small when the pussy willows come out
and the frogs begin to peep, is pretty big in the hot days of July. A
garden four feet wide and twenty feet long, half sweet peas and half
asters, is about as big as most boys and girls will take care of.
[Illustration: _Fig. 271. A clump of weeds in the corner by the
house,--motherwort and Virginia creeper. How pretty they are!_]
In the next place, do not get too many varieties. Four or five kinds
each of peas and asters will be enough. Buy the named varieties,--that
is, those of known colors,--not the mixed packets. If you are very fond
of reds, then choose the reddest kinds; but it is well to put in at
least three colors. The varieties which please you may not please me or
your neighbor, so that I cannot advise you what to get.
Of China asters, the Comet type--in various colors--will probably give
the most satisfaction. They are mostly large-growing kinds. Other
excellent kinds are the Perfection and Peony-flowered, Semple or
Branching, Chrysanthemum-flowered, Washington, Victoria, and, for early,
Queen of the Market. Odd varieties are Crown, German Quilled, Victoria
Needle, and Lilliput. Very dwarf kinds are Dwarf Bouquet or Dwarf
German, and Shakespeare.
One of the chief merits of the China aster is the lateness of bloom,
allowing the flowers to be used in the schools after they open in the
fall. An excellent flower for sowing during May is the common annual
Phlox (_Phlox Drummondii_ of the catalogues). Poppies are also
satisfactory, but the flowers do not last long. Petunias are excellent
and Balsams, Clarkias, Coreopsis (or Calliopsis), and Zinnias may be
sown.
Now, let us see how many boys and girls in New York State will raise
sweet peas and China asters this year! And we should like them to write
us all about it.
LEAFLET XXXIX.
A HILL OF POTATOES.[53]
BY I. P. ROBERTS.
[53] Nature-Study Quarterly, No. 7: Leaflet 20, January, 1901.
[Illustration]
Plant a hill of potatoes. You can do it in the school-room. Plant in a
box or a flower-pot. Keep the box warm, and do not let the soil dry out.
Plant whole tubers and pieces of tubers. Plant pieces of various sizes.
Plant some that have no "eyes." Plant shallow--so that the tuber is just
covered with soil--and deep. Watch the results.
All plants are abundantly supplied with means for reproducing their
kind: some by seed, some by multiplication at the crown or base or by
roots, others by means of underground stems; and some, as the potato,
have two or more means of reproduction. In its wild or partially
improved state the potato is abundantly supplied with fruit, "seed
balls," borne on the top of the stalks. The seeds of a single ball will
often produce many varieties of potatoes; but they cannot be depended
upon to reproduce the parent stock. Farmers seldom attempt to raise
potatoes from the seeds; when they do it is for the purpose of securing
new varieties. The common method of reproduction is to plant a part or
all of an enlarged underground stem, that is, a part of the "potato" or
tuber.
When the soil is reasonably porous and fertile, a strong root may start
at the seed-piece and descend more or less directly into the subsoil. In
most cases, however, the roots spread laterally. This is a good
illustration of how plants may vary in their root habits in order to
adapt themselves to their environment. Notice where the roots form on
the plants you are growing. Few farmers know where they form.
Distinguish the true or feeding roots from the underground stems.
Determine how many tubers form on each underground stem. Dig up a hill
of potatoes from the garden before school closes.
[Illustration: _Fig. 272. Underground part of potato plant in mellow
soil._]
A single eye, with a portion of the tuber attached to furnish
nourishment to the bud until sustenance can be secured from newly formed
rootlets, may produce one, occasionally more, strong upright stems. A
most interesting study of manifold reproduction may be made even in the
winter time by planting in a fertile soil a piece of potato containing a
single eye (Fig. 273). As soon as the rootlets begin to start, divide
each eye and piece into two parts and re-plant. In a few days after the
rootlets have again started, divide the two pieces into four and
re-plant. This operation may be performed again and again, until many
plants suitable for transplanting in the open may be secured from a
single eye.
[Illustration: _Fig. 273. Piece of tuber for planting, bearing a single
eye._]
Demonstrate that the potato contains starch. This can be done by
applying a drop of dilute iodine to a freshly cut surface of the tuber:
the starch grains turn blue-black. Five cents' worth of iodine purchased
at the drug-store will be sufficient for many tests. Dilute it about
one-half with water. This starch, after being changed to sugar,
supplies the young plant with nourishment. Dig up the pieces you have
planted and see which start first, shoots or roots.
The "potato" is an enlarged underground stem provided with numerous buds
similar to those on the stems of plants above ground. These buds are
placed spirally on the underground stem or tuber with a considerable
degree of uniformity. As on the stems of other plants, the buds are less
numerous and weaker at the base and most numerous and vigorous at the
top or upper end. On a smooth well developed long potato, the spiral
arrangement of the buds may be illustrated by sticking a tooth-pick or
pin in each eye, beginning at the base or stem end, and connecting the
pins with a string (Fig. 274).
[Illustration: Fig. 274. How to illustrate the spiral arrangement of the
eyes.]
FARM NOTES ON THE POTATO.
Now that we have seen the potato growing in the school-room, some
information may be given respecting its treatment in the field as a
crop.
Potatoes are easily raised, even under adverse conditions, although they
respond quickly to superior fertility and tillage. The average yield in
the United States during the last ten years was 76.6 bushels an acre,
although from three to four hundred bushels an acre are not uncommon
under superior tillage when soil and climate are at their best.
The area devoted to potatoes during the last decade was two and a half
million acres annually. Potatoes do best on a moderately moist and deep
soil and in a climate relatively cool.
Since the period of growth is short, varying from three to five months,
they should be planted in soil which has an abundance of readily
available plant-food. Notice in Fig. 272 that most of the underground
stems which have produced potatoes leave the main stem about four inches
below the surface and but a short distance above the seed-piece. This
suggests that the seed should be planted about four inches deep. To
produce three hundred bushels of potatoes requires the exhalation of
over three hundred tons of water: therefore water or moisture is of
quite as much importance in securing large yields as plant-food.
It is best to prepare the land deeply, to plant deep, and then to
practice nearly or quite level culture. The practice of hilling up
potatoes, so common in most parts of the country, is to be discouraged,
usually, because it is wasteful of moisture and the tubers do not grow
in the coolest part of the soil. For very early potatoes, hilling-up may
be allowable. Till the soil very often to save the moisture. For the
philosophy of this, see Leaflet No. IX.
Not infrequently the potato is seriously injured by blights which attack
the leaves. The early blight, which usually appears in June, may destroy
some of the foliage, thereby checking growth. The late blight, which
also attacks the foliage, is far more serious. It differs little in
outward appearance from the early blight. In rare cases the vines are so
seriously injured that no potatoes are formed. The potato rot or blight
did great damage to the potato in many localities in the United States
in 1845. In 1846 the blight appeared in Ireland and virtually destroyed
the entire crop. Before this date the potato had become the chief food
supply of the peasantry. The cultivation of oats as a food crop had been
universal before the introduction of the potato, but oats furnished so
little food on a given area as compared to the potato that the
cultivation of them at the time the blight appeared had been very
largely abandoned. The loss of the potato crop produced widespread
famine. The most conservative estimate of the numbers who perished for
want of food or by disease caused by a meager diet of unhealthy and
innutritions food is set down at six hundred thousand during the two
years of the potato blight. This disease was not so destructive in 1847
as in 1846; and by 1848 it had virtually disappeared. Some one has said
that if Great Britain had expended one dollar for investigating the
diseases of potatoes where she had spent a thousand dollars for
perfecting the engines of war, the terrible famine might have been
averted. We now think it a relatively easy matter to keep the blight in
check by thorough spraying with Bordeaux mixture.
HOW THE POTATO HAS BEEN IMPROVED.
All plants have their origin in pre-existing plants. While the young
plant is always similar to the one from which it was derived, it is
never exactly like its parent in every detail. This arises from the fact
that all of the conditions under which the parent plant and its
offspring grow are never exactly alike. The variations or differences in
the plants are usually exceedingly small in a single generation; but
occasionally they are wide, in which case they are called "sports" and
are usually difficult to perpetuate. If successive generations of plants
are reared under continuously improved conditions, there will be a
continuous and accumulating variation from generation to generation,
which in time may come to be so great as to make it difficult to
discover a marked similarity between the wild and the cultivated forms
of the same plant.
When conditions are undisturbed by man there is found to be a fierce
struggle for existence. The hardiest or those best suited to the
conditions preponderate, and this without any reference to the wants of
mankind. The farmer steps in and selects those plants which give promise
of being most useful or most beautiful and then decreases or eliminates
the struggle for these selected plants, by destroying the plants which
are least desirable, by fertilizing and tilling the soil, by conserving
moisture, and by improving the physical conditions of the land, thereby
making it more comfortable for the plants which he has chosen. The
selected or "improved" plant, by reason of being more comfortable and
better nourished, tends to vary in one or more directions from the wild
and unimproved types. Whenever these variations tend towards greater
productiveness, better quality or enhanced beauty, selection is again
made of such specimens as give promise of supplying the wants and
gratifying the desires of civilized man. The bettered conditions of the
plant, by reason of man's effort, do not usually result in producing
like variation along all lines. One part of the plant as the flower, the
fruit, or the stem, varies more than the other parts. All this tends to
break up a single type or stock into many varieties. There are hundreds
of varieties of potatoes all traceable to a single wild species. The
kind and quantity of nourishment supplied plays the most important part
of any single factor in producing variation.
The general character of the cultivated potato plant as to leaf, stem,
root, and habit of growth, is virtually the same as the wild plant,
variation having been directed and accentuated along the line of
increasing the size and quality of the underground tubers. This habit of
producing enormously enlarged underground stems has been operating so
long that the plant has inherited the power of transmitting this
acquired quality to the succeeding plants. The most improved varieties
seldom produce seed balls, because growth has been directed so largely
toward enlarging and multiplying the tubers. By selecting tubers with
shallow buds or eyes and avoiding those with deep, sunken eyes,
varieties have been produced with few eyes or buds, and these set not in
deep indentations but nearly even with the surface of the potato.
* * * * *
As a school-room subject, the potato is not very tractable, unless we
study merely the tubers. If the school is in session in summer, the
growing plant may be had. Then it will be found to be an interesting and
profitable exercise to set the children at the problem of determining
the root-system of the potato plant. How do the roots look? Does the
plant have a tap-root, or do the roots spread laterally? Are the tubers
borne on roots? Or on underground stems? Why do you think so? Does the
tuber terminate the branch? What relation, in position, do the
tuber-bearing branches bear to other parts of the underground system? Do
you think that the tuber-bearing branches aid in collecting food from
the soil?
The top of the plant may be studied in the same spirit,--branching,
leaves, flowers, berries.
If the growing plant cannot be had, study tubers. Compare as to size,
shape, color, character of eyes, whether scabby or smooth. Use them as
objects in drawing.
Plant tubers in the school-room, in boxes or flower pots. This Leaflet
will suggest some interesting observations.
How important is the potato crop in the State and nation? The pupil can
use his mathematics here.
LEAFLET XL.
THE HEPATICA.[54]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[54] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. IV, No. 30, March, 1903.
[Illustration]
As children are always especially interested in the wild flowers in
spring, I have thought best to study a few of the woodland blossoms. The
wonderful processes of plant life are as well shown in these as in any.
The hepatica is among the first which greets us in the spring, and we
will study this first.
There are several ways of getting acquainted with a plant: one is to
go-a-visiting, and another is to invite the plant to our own home,
either as guest on the window-sill, or as a tenant of the garden. When
we visit the hepatica in its own haunts it is usually with the longing
for spring in our hearts that awakens with the first warm sunshine and
which is really one of the subtlest as well as greatest charms of living
in a climate that has a snowy winter. As we thread our way into the
sodden woods, avoiding the streams and puddles that are little glacial
rivers and lakes from fast disappearing snow-drifts still heaped on the
north sides of things, we look eagerly for signs of returning life. The
eye slowly differentiates from the various shades of brown in the floor
of the forest a bit of pale blue or pink purple that at first seems as
if it were an optical delusion; but as we look again to make sure, lo!
it is the hepatica. There it is, rising from its mass of purple brown
leaves, leaves that are always beautiful in shape and color and suggest
patterns for sculpture like the acanthus or for rich tapestries like the
palm-leaf in the Orient. There the brave little flower stands with its
face to the sun and its back to the snow-drift and looks out on a gray
brown world and nods at it and calls it "good."
It is when the hepatica is our guest that we have a better opportunity
for studying its form and features. Take up a hepatica root in the fall
and pot it and place it in a cool cellar until March 1. Then give it
light, warmth, and moisture on your table and see how gladly it will
blossom and tell its secrets. Or perhaps if we are not sufficiently
forehanded to get the root in the fall we can get it during a thaw in
March when we go foraging for spring feelings in winter woods.
[Illustration: _Fig. 275. Hepatica, harbinger of spring._]
When finally a bud has uncuddled and lifted itself into a flower, it
will tell us the story of leaves in different disguises, and we may be
able to notice whether the pollen ripens and is all distributed when the
flower begins to fade and fall. We may note also the number of seeds and
examine one of them with a lens. It is what the botanists call an akene,
which simply means just one seed with a tight envelope about it. We have
a careless habit of forgetting all about plants after their blossoms
fade unless their fruits or seed are good to eat or good to look at.
This is as inconsistent as it would be to lose all interest in the farm
before the fields were planted. After the flower is gone the plant must
mature its seeds and somehow must sow them. We will study the hepatica
through the summer and autumn, for we must know what is happening to it
every month.
QUESTIONS CONCERNING THE HEPATICA TO BE ANSWERED DURING MARCH AND APRIL.
1. In what situations are the hepaticas found?
2. How does the hepatica prepare for the winter and store up energy for
blossoming early in the spring?
3. How early do you find blossom buds down in the center of the plant?
Did you ever look for these buds in the fall?
4. Do the flowers come out of the crown bud?
5. Are the leaves that come up late in the spring as fuzzy when they
first appear as those that come up early?
6. Make out as complete a life-history of the hepatica as you can,--how
it sows itself, where it grows, how long it lives, with what plant it
keeps company.
LEAFLET XLI.
JACK-IN-THE-PULPIT.[55]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[55] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. IV, No. 31, April, 1903.
"Jack-in-the-Pulpit preaches to-day
Under the green trees, just over the way.
Squirrel and song sparrow high on their perch
Hear the sweet lily bells ringing to church.
Come, hear what his reverence rises to say,
In his low, painted pulpit this calm Sabbath day,
Fair is the canopy over him seen,
Penciled by nature's hand, black, brown, and green."
_J. G. Whittier._
[Illustration: _Fig. 276. Jack-in-the-Pulpit._]
[Illustration]
At one time or another, perhaps all of us are given to the belief that
all flowers blossom for our especial enjoyment. It is hard to think back
for a thousand years and imagine hepaticas blooming on our New York
hills; yet no doubt, they blossomed then in far greater numbers than
they do to-day. Many of our native plants played their part in
sustaining the lives of the native Americans, and that little preacher,
Jack-in-the-pulpit, was a turnip long before he was a preacher. Indian
turnip was his name in the days of our ancestors because the Indians
boiled his bulb-like root and the ripe berries, thus making them a less
peppery and a more palatable food.
The St. Nicholas Magazine was for so many years the organ through which
Jack preached so many sermons to children all over our land that
he is even to-day one of the best loved of the woodland flowers.
Whittier, in his "Child Life," and Lucy Larcom have both celebrated
Jack-in-the-pulpit in song, and these verses should be given to the
children when they are studying the habits of this interesting plant.
Jack-in-the-pulpit is a wild cousin of the over-civilized calla lily. It
is interesting to study the way the flowers resemble each other, and
this you and the children will be able to study for yourselves. It will
teach you that the showy parts of a blossom may be merely a protection,
and an advertisement for the true flower hidden within.
QUESTIONS CONCERNING JACK-IN-THE-PULPIT.
1. Where do you find this plant, in dry or in wet locations?
2. What is the shape of the root? Is it pleasant to the taste?
3. How do the leaves look when they first appear above the ground?
4. How far are the leaves developed when the flowers appear?
5. Does the tip of the hood fold over at first?
6. Do you see a resemblance to the calla lily when you bend the tip of
the hood backward? Compare or contrast the two plants.
7. How many leaves has Jack-in-the-pulpit? Are they simple or compound?
8. What are the colors of the "pulpits" in your locality?
LEAFLET XLII.
INDIAN CORN.[56]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[56] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. IV, No. 32, May, 1903.
_"Hail! Ha-wen-ni-yu! Listen with open ears to the words of thy people.
Continue to listen. We thank our mother earth which sustains us. We
thank the winds which have banished disease. We thank He-no for rain. We
thank the moon and stars which give us light when the sun has gone to
rest. We thank the sun for warmth and light by day. Keep us from evil
ways that the sun may never hide his face from us for shame and leave us
in darkness. We thank thee, oh, mighty Ha-wen-ni-yu that we still live.
We thank thee that thou hast made our corn to grow. Thou art our creator
and our good ruler, thou canst do no evil. Everything thou doest is for
our happiness."_
[Illustration]
Thus prayed the Iroquois Indians when the corn had ripened on the hills
and valleys of New York State long before it was a state, and even
before Columbus had turned his ambitious prows westward in quest of the
Indies. Had he found the Indies with their wealth of fabrics and spices
he would have found there nothing so valuable to the world as has proved
this golden treasure of ripened corn.
The origin of Indian corn, or maize, is shrouded in mystery. There is a
plant which grows on the tablelands of Mexico which is possibly the
original species, but so long had maize been cultivated by the American
Indians that it was thoroughly domesticated when America was discovered.
In those early days of American colonization it is doubtful, says
Professor John Fiske, if our forefathers could have remained here had it
not been for Indian corn. No plowing nor even clearing was necessary for
the successful raising of this grain. The trees were girdled, thus
killing their tops to let in the sunlight; the rich earth was scratched
a little with a primitive tool and the seed put in and covered; and the
plants that grew therefrom took care of themselves. If the pioneers had
been obliged to depend alone upon the wheat and rye of Europe which
would only grow with good tillage they might have starved before they
had gained a foothold on our forest-covered shores. While maize has
never been a popular grain in European countries outside of the
southermost parts, yet on the great continents of Africa and Asia it
was welcomed from the first, and is now largely grown. It has ripened
for so many centuries on the slopes of the Himalayas that if you were to
ask one of the natives to-day how long it had grown there he would
answer you "always."
It is fitting that a grain which is so peculiarly adapted to be the aid
and support of a great civilization should grow upon a plant of such
dignity and beauty as is the maize. The perfect proportions of the
slender stalk to the long gracefully curving leaves; the plumed tassels
swaying and bowing to every breeze and sending their pollen showers to
the waiting skeins of silk hidden below; the ripened ear with its exact
rows of shining yellow grains wrapped in silken husks; all these make
the corn plant as delightful to the eye as it is intrinsically important
to the welfare of nations. No more wonderful lesson in plant growth can
we find for our study than this lesson of the Indian corn.
[Illustration: _Fig. 277. Parts of corn kernel._]
LESSON ON INDIAN CORN FOR SPRING AND SUMMER.
Secure a kernel of corn and cut it in halves (Fig. 277) and with the
naked eye you will be able to see there the young plant pressed close to
its stored up food, which, though largely composed of starch, also has
in it proteids and oil. You will see that this food is dry and thus
cannot be used by the young plant, for plants, whether young or old,
must take their nourishment in a fluid condition. Soak the seed and see
how soon the young plant passes on the moisture to soften the food so
that it may imbibe it and grow. Fill a tumbler with earth and plant a
grain of corn next to the glass so that you may be able to see how it
grows.
CORN STALKS, LEAVES AND ROOTS.
1. Which appears first, root parts or leaf?
2. How does the leaf look when it first comes up?
3. How old is the corn when the blossom stalks begin to show above the
leaves?
4. Does the stalk break more easily at the joints than elsewhere?
Measure the distances between the joints in a stalk of young corn and
two weeks later measure these distances again, and compare your figures.
From these measurements tell whether the plant grows only at the top, or
has it several growing places?
5. Are the joints nearer each other at the bottom or at the top?
6. Where do the bases of the leaves clasp the stalks?
7. Tell why this arrangement gives strength to the stalk.
8. Do you see a little growth at the base of the leaf that prevents the
rain from flowing down between the stalk and the clasping leaf? This is
called the rain-guard. How might it damage the plant if the water should
get in between the leaf and stem?
9. What is the structure of the leaf and direction of the ribs?
10. How does this structure keep the long leaf from being torn to pieces
by the wind?
11. Note the ruffled edge of the leaf. Lay such a leaf flat on a table
and bend it this way and that, and note how this fullness allows it to
bend without breaking the edges. What advantage is this to the plant?
12. Study the roots of a corn plant. How far do they extend into the
ground? Describe them.
13. Study the brace roots that come off the stalk an inch or more above
the ground. Of what utility are these to the plant?
14. Bend down a stalk of growing corn and place a stone on it near its
base so as to hold it down, and note how it acts. Does it commence to
lift itself up straight from the joint, or from a place between the
joints?
15. Cut off the water supply from a plant, or watch the corn during a
drought and tell how the leaves behave.
16. Do they offer as much surface to the air for evaporation when they
are curled? Is this the way the plant protects itself by retaining this
moisture during a dry time?
17. Do the stalks or leaves grow after the ears begin to form?
18. Do you find "suckers" growing; if so what is the variety?
FLOWERS.
There are two kinds of flowers on the corn: the tassels bearing
the pollen, and the ears bearing the ovules which develop into
seeds. Study first the tassel. Observe the flowerets through a
lens if you have one and note that the pollen sacs open a little
at one side instead of at the tip so that the wind is needed in
order to shake out the pollen. It is estimated that on each corn
plant there may be developed eighteen million pollen grains and
two thousand ovules. The pollen-tube must penetrate the whole
length of each thread of corn-silk in order to reach the ovules.
19. What agency carries the pollen grains to the ear?
20. What would happen to a field of corn if the farmer cut off all the
tassels as soon as they were formed?
21. Find a tassel before it appears and study it. Secure an ear when
only an inch or two long and study it. These should be studied as flower
parts.
22. How early can you find the ear? Look at every joint and tell how
many ears you find on a young stalk.
23. In studying the ear, take first the husk. Does it resemble the leaf
in structure? What is the difference between the outer and the inner
husks?
24. Do you believe that the husk is a modified leaf; if so why? In the
young ear does each thread of silk extend out to the end of the ear; if
so why?
25. Is there a thread of silk for each kernel in the ear?
26. Study corn when it is in the "milk." Is the taste sweet?
27. Does this sweet taste continue as the kernel matures?
28. How is the stalk modified to fit the ear?
ENEMIES.
The corn has many difficulties to contend with: there are heavy
winds, too much or too little rain, hail, and, worst of all,
frosts which not only kill it when it is first planted, but
also hurt it before it is matured. The corn has living enemies
also, such as wire-worms and cut-worms. Our forefathers were
much troubled with the mischief which crows did in pulling corn.
However, many of our observing farmers to-day say that only in
rare instances do the crows injure corn much. The work done by
cut-worms is often attributed to crows.
29. Please note in your locality what difficulties the corn has to
contend with. If possible make a special study of the damage said to be
done by crows. Give the results.
LEAFLET XLIII.
THE RIPENED CORN.[57]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[57] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. V, No. 1, October, 1903.
[Illustration]
Every boy and girl living on a farm in New York State twenty-five years
or more ago, has in memory a picture like this: a stubbly hill-side
field beset with russet shocks of corn and constellations of orange
pumpkins, whence might be seen wide valleys filled with purple haze, and
far hills bedecked with autumn tapestries woven about emerald patches of
new wheat.
To such a field, after the laggard sun had changed the hoar frost to
dew, would they hasten of an October morning, to begin the corn-husking.
The enthusiastic youngster, who had an eye to artistic unity in the
situation, invariably selected a pumpkin for his seat, scorning his more
sordid fellows who had brought milking-stools from the barn, when nature
had placed so many golden thrones at their disposal. Too soon a
discovery was made about this that applies as well to other thrones,--it
proved an uneasy seat, and was abandoned for a sofa constructed of
corn-stalks. Here, leaning back with a full sense of luxury, listening
to the rustle of the dry leaves and husks and the monotonous song of the
cricket, enlivened now and then by the lazy call of the crow from the
hemlocks on the hill, the sweet note of the belated meadow-lark from the
valley, or the excited bark of the dog as he chased a squirrel along the
fence, the busy husker passed the autumn day. On either side of him were
evidences of his labor. On the right stood great disheveled stooks of
corn stalks bereft of their pockets of gold; on the left lay in a heap
the shining yellow ears, ready to be measured in the waiting
bushel-basket; in front was always a little pile of noble ears with some
of the husks still attached,--the seed corn. Proud was the boy when he
had learned to select successfully "the ear of good length, cylindrical
rather than pointed, the cob firm and well filled from butt to tip with
grains uniformly large, of good color and in regular rows that showed no
space between." Now-a-days, we challenge this ideal of the "perfect
ear."
[Illustration: _Fig. 278. The Harvest of the Corn._]
As "chore time" approached, came the wagon afield to gather the harvest
of ears and take them to the cribs, where their gold gleaming between
the boards gave comfortable assurance of peace and plenty. But the seed
corn was stored in a way learned by our forefathers from the American
Indians; the ears were braided together by their husks, by the skilled
farmer, who could make a braid two or three feet long, strong enough to
hold the weight of the ears that hung a heavy fringe along each side;
this braid when completed was tied with a bit of soft, tow twine, long
saved for the purpose, and then was hung on hooks on the granary walls.
There, until spring, waited the elect of the cornfield, holding in
perfect kernels all the future corn wealth of that farm.
From the first day's husking a bushel of ears was reserved from the crib
and was spread on a chamber floor to dry quickly; later this was taken
to the mill and ground into samp, one of the prized luxuries of the
autumn bill of fare. Other corn was ground into finer meal for the
delicious Johnny-cake and the Indian bread, the latter reaching fullest
perfection when baked in a brick oven.
To the tenants of the farm barns the corn meant even more than to those
in the farm house. In August the cattle in dry pastures cast longing
eyes and expressive voices toward the pale, green leaves and waving
tassels of the sowed-corn, and great was their joy the first day they
tasted this delicacy; in November, they munched the dry leaves of the
planted crop, leaving in the barn-yard an angular patterned carpet of
bare, hard stalks. In winter the corn meal, in proper proportions, made
for them a food that kept them warm despite the cold winds that clutched
at them, through crevices, with fingers of drifted snow. And no less
dependent on this important crop were the denizens of the fold, of the
sty, and of the chicken-yard.
The old-time harvesting and husking are passing from the New York farm
of to-day. The granary is no longer frescoed with braids of model ears,
for the seed corn is now bought by the bushel from the seedsmen. The
corn harvester has dissolved the partnership between corn and pumpkin
and fells the stalks by the acre, doing away with the old-time stooks or
shocks. Corn-stalks now become silage and are fed in a green condition
throughout the winter. How often do we lose something of picturesqueness
when we gain the advantages of modern improvements! Let us be thankful,
however, that the corn harvester and the silo make efficient use of the
great fields of corn.
Although there is but one species of corn recognized (_Zea Mays_), there
have been an endless number of varieties developed from it. Seven
hundred and seventy of these were sufficiently distinct to be recognized
when the Department of Agriculture published its account of varieties.
The importance of the corn crop to this country and to others is almost
incalculable. In 1902, the United States produced more than two and a
half billion bushels and the export price was $.60 per bushel. When the
corn crop fails every man, rich or poor, in America, suffers from it,
and every business is affected by it. Though the man working in the
cornfield may think only of his own crop, yet he is the man that is
helping maintain the prosperity of our country. He is working for us
all.
QUESTIONS ON THE RIPENED CORN.
1. Is the corn crop in your vicinity good this year?
2. What affected it, beneficially or otherwise?
3. How many ears of corn are there usually on a mature stalk?
4. Are they on the same side of the stalk, or how are they disposed?
5. How many kinds of corn do you know?
6. Describe an average ear of each in the following particulars: shape
and color of kernel; number of rows of kernels on the cob; number of
kernels in a row; length of cob. Are the rows in distinct pairs? Do any
of the rows disappear near the tip; if so, how many?
7. Study a cob with corn on it. Are the kernel-sockets of adjacent rows
opposite each other or alternate?
8. Cut a kernel of pop-corn and a kernel of field corn across and
compare the texture of the two. What has this texture to do with causing
the kernel to "pop?"
9. How many foods do you know made from the grain of the corn?
10. How many products do you know made from stalks of the corn?
11. Do you know of any part of the corn that is used in constructing
battleships?
12. What is the corn crop of New York State worth in dollars a year?
(See U. S. Census Bulletin, No. 179.)
13. How many bushels of shelled corn are usually produced on an acre of
well cultivated land?
14. Could the corn plant itself without the agency of man?
If you are able to draw, please make a sketch of a kernel of sweet corn
and a kernel of field corn. Break an ear of corn in two and sketch the
broken end, showing shape of the cob and its relation to the kernels.
NOTE ON THE NEW CORN BREEDING.[58]
[58] Extracted from an article by L. H. Bailey in Country Life in
America, July, 1903.
The particular materials that give the corn kernel most of its value are
the oil, the protein and the starch. For the production of corn oil--for
which the demand is large--a corn that has a high oil content is, of
course, particularly valuable; while for the production of starch or for
the feeding of bacon hogs, a relatively higher percentage of other
materials is desirable. It is apparent, therefore, that races of corn
should be bred for a particular content, depending on the disposition to
be made of the grain. Equal economic results cannot be attained,
however, in increasing the content of any of the three leading
ingredients, since a pound of gluten is worth one cent, a pound of
starch one and one-half cents, and a pound of oil five cents. The
amounts of these ingredients in the corn kernel are amenable to increase
or diminution by means of selection,--by choosing for seed the kernels
of ears that are rich or poor in one or the other of these materials.
Fortunately, the oil and starch and protein of the corn kernel occupy
rather distinct zones. Next the outside hull is a dark and horny layer
that is very rich in protein; in the center is the large germ, very rich
in oil; between the two is a white layer of starch. It is found that the
kernels on any ear are remarkably uniform in their content; the
dissection of a few kernels, therefore, enables the breeder to determine
the ears that are rich in any one of the substances. Experiment stations
in the corn-growing States are already making great headway in this new
breeding of corn, and one private concern in Illinois is taking it up as
a commercial enterprise. All this recalls the remarkable breeding
experiments of the Vilmorins in France, whereby the sugar-content of the
beet was raised several points. It is impossible to overestimate the
value of any concerted corn-breeding work of this general type. The
grain alone of the corn crop is worth about one billion dollars
annually. It is possible to increase this efficiency several
percentages; the coming generation will see it accomplished.
An interesting cognate inquiry to this direct breeding work is the study
of the commercial grades of grains. It is a most singular fact that the
dealer's "grades" are of a very different kind from the farmer's
"varieties." In the great markets, for example, corn is sold as "No. 1
yellow," "No. 2 yellow," "No. 3 yellow," and the like. Any yellow corn
may be thrown into these grades. What constitutes a grade is essentially
a judgment on the part of every dealer. The result is that the grain is
likely to be condemned or criticised when it reaches its destination.
Complaints having come to the government, the United States Department
of Agriculture has undertaken to determine how far the grades of grain
can be reduced to indisputable instrumental measurement. The result is
likely to be a closer defining of what a grade is; and, this point once
determined, the producer will make an effort to grow such grain as will
grade to No. 1, and thereby attain to the extra price. Eventually, the
efficiency points of the grower and the commercial grades of the dealer
ought nearly or quite to coincide. There should come a time when corn is
sold on its intrinsic merits, as, for example, on its starch content.
This corn would not then be graded 1, 2 and 3, on its starch content,
because that content would be assured in the entire product; but the
grade 1 would mean prime physical condition, and the lower grades
inferior physical condition. Eventually, something like varietal names
may be attached to those kinds of corn that, for example, grade fifteen
per cent protein. The name would be something like a guarantee of the
approximate content, as it now is in a commercial fertilizer.
The first thing that strikes one in all this new work is its strong
contrast with the old ideals. The "points" of the plants are those of
"performance" and "efficiency." It brings into sharp relief the
accustomed ideals as to what are the "good points" in any plant,
illustrating the fact that these points are for the most part only
fanciful, are founded on a priori judgments, and are more often
correlated with mere "looks" than with efficiency. An excellent example
may be taken from corn. In "scaling" any variety of corn it is customary
to assume that the perfect ear is one nearly or quite uniformly
cylindrical throughout its length, and having the tip and butt well
covered with kernels. Now, this ideal is clearly one of perfectness and
completeness of mere form. We have no knowledge that such form has any
correlation with productiveness in ears, hardiness, drought-resisting
qualities, protein or starch content,--and yet these attributes are the
ones that make corn worth growing at all. We only know that such ears
may bear more kernels. An illustration also may be taken from string
beans. The ideal pod is considered to be one of which the tip-projection
is very short and only slightly curved. This, apparently, is a question
of comeliness, although a short tip may be associated in the popular
mind with the absence of "string" in the pod; but it is a question
whether this character has any direct relation to the efficiency of the
bean-pod. We are also undergoing much the same challenging of ideas
respecting the "points" of animals. Now, animals and plants are bred to
the ideals expressed in these arbitrary points by choosing for parents
the individuals that score the highest. When it becomes necessary to
recast our "scales of points," the whole course of evolution of domestic
plants and animals is likely to be changed. We are to breed not so much
for merely new and striking characters, that will enable us to name,
describe and sell a "novelty," as to improve the performance along
accustomed lines. It may be worth while to produce a "new variety" of
potato by raising new plants from the seed-bolls; but it is much more to
the point to augment the mealiness of some existing variety or to
intensify its blight-resisting qualities. We are not to start with a
variety, but with a plant.
LEAFLET XLIV.
THE USES OF FOOD STORED IN SEEDS.[59]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[59] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. V, No. 4, January, 1904.
"A mystery passing strange,
Is the seed in its wondrous change;
Forest and flower in its husk concealed,
And the golden wealth of the harvest field."
--LUCY LARCOM.
[Illustration]
As is the case with our own babies, the first necessity of the infant
plant is food close at hand to sustain this tiny speck of life until it
shall be large and strong enough to provide for itself. If we study any
seed whatever we shall find some such motherly provision for the plant
baby or germ. Sometimes the germ is a mere speck with a large amount of
food packed around it, as is the case with the nutmeg; sometimes the
baby is larger and its food is packed in a part adjacent to it, as is
the case with the corn (Fig. 279); and sometimes the mother stuffs the
baby itself so that it has enough to last it until its own little roots
and leaves bring it mature food, as is the case with the squash seed. In
any case this "lunch put up by the mother," to use Uncle John's words,
is so close at hand that as soon as favorable conditions occur the
little plant may eat and grow, and establish itself in the soil.
Nature is remarkable for her skill in doing up compact packages, and in
no other place is this skill better shown than in storing food in seeds
for the young plants. Not only is it concentrated, but it is protected
and of such chemical composition that it is able to remain fresh and
good for many years awaiting the favorable moment when it may nourish
the starting germ. People often wonder why, when a forest is cleared of
one species of trees, another species grows in its place. This often may
have resulted from the seeds lying many years dormant awaiting the
opportunity. This preservation of the food in the seed is largely due to
the protecting shell that keeps out the enemies of all sorts, especially
mould. And yet, however strong this box may be, as it is in the
hard-shelled hickory nut, it falls apart like magic when the germ within
begins to expand.
Brain rather than brawn is the cause of man's supremacy in this world.
Of all the beings that inhabit the earth he knows best how to use for
his own advantage all things that exist. His progress from savagery to
civilization is marked by his growing power to domesticate animals and
plants. Very early in his history man learned the value to himself of
the seeds of the cereals. He discovered that they may be kept a long
time without injury; that they contain a great amount of nutrition for
their bulk; that they are easily prepared for food; that, when planted,
they give largest return. Thus, we see, the advantages the plant mother
had developed for her young, man has turned to his own use. That the
food put up for the young plant is so protected and constituted as to
endure unhurt for a long time gives the cereal grains their keeping
quality. That it is concentrated and well packed renders it convenient
for man to transport. That the "box" is easily separated from the
"lunch" makes the preparation of food by crushing and sifting an easy
matter for man. That every mother plant, to insure the continuation of
the species, develops many seeds, so that in the great struggle for
existence at least some shall survive, makes the cereals profitable for
man to plant, and harvest the increase. Think once, how few ears of corn
it requires to plant an acre.
[Illustration: _Fig. 279. Section of kernel of corn, showing the embryo,
and the food supply at one side of it (at the right)._]
Because of all these things there has grown up between domestic plants
and man a partnership. Man relieves the plant of the responsibility of
scattering its seeds, and in return takes for himself that proportion of
the seeds which would have died in the struggle for existence had the
plant remained uncultivated. This partnership is fair to both parties.
Different plants store food materials in different proportions in their
seeds; the most important of these food substances are starch, oil,
protein, and mineral matter. All of these materials are necessary to man
as food. In the cereals the seeds contain a large proportion of starch,
but in the nuts, like the butternuts and walnuts, there is a
predominance of oil. Let us for a moment examine a kernel of corn and a
kernel of wheat and see how the food is arranged. Fig. 279 is a kernel
of corn cut in two lengthwise; at the lower left-hand corner are the
root parts and leaf parts of the young plant (the embryo); above the
embryo is the loose starch material. Now we have the baby corn plant
lying at one side, and its food packed about it. However, this food is
in the form of starch, and must be changed to sugar before the young
plant can partake of it and grow. There lies a connecting part between
the germ and its food, the scutellum. This is so constituted that when
soaked with water it ferments the starch and changes it to sugar for the
young plant's use.
The germ itself is also a very nutritious food for man; hence the seed
is eaten, "baby and all." In the corn, those kernels with the largest
germs have the largest food value, and, therefore, to-day corn breeders
are developing kernels with very large embryos.
If we examine the microscopic structure of the food part of a grain of
wheat (Fig. 280), we find that there are two outer layers, _a_ and _b_.
Next there is a row of cells _d_ that divides these outer layers from
the flour cells within. This is the aleurone layer. At _e_ are the flour
cells which constitute the central portion of the wheat kernel. They
contain starch, and also gluten, and some oil, and some mineral
substances. In grinding to make white flour, the miller tries to leave
the aleurone layer of cells _d_ with the outer layers _a_ and _b_, for
if it is mixed with the flour the latter spoils much sooner, and it is
also darker in color. In the seed is a ferment that helps digest the
food for the young plant.
[Illustration: _Fig. 280. Section of grain of wheat._]
In order to think more intelligently about our use of food, let us find
out, if we can, which parts of the food stored up by the plant for its
sustenance are used by us both for ourselves and our livestock. The
intelligent farmer gives his stock a carefully balanced ration, _i. e._,
food that is well proportioned for the growth and product of the animal.
If he wishes his cows to give more milk he may give them more proteids
in their food, and less starch and fat. If he wishes to fatten them he
may give them a greater amount of starch and fat and less of the
proteids. In order to know what these proteids and starch and fat mean,
both to us and to the plant, we have to know a little chemistry. The
following table may aid us in this:
Nutritive substances which {Proteids (casein, gluten, legumen,
contain nitrogen. { etc., albuminoids, gelatine,
{ white of egg, etc.).
Nutritive substances which {The carbohydrates (sugar and
do not contain nitrogen. { starch). Fats (oils, butter).
Mineral substances. {Lime, phosphorus, sulfur, etc.
The substances mentioned in the above table are all needful to
sustain the life of man and beast. If we compare the body to a
steam engine, then we can see that its whole framework is built
out of the proteids, mineral matter and water. The starch and sugar
and fats constitute the fuel used to heat the boiler and make the
engine move. Strictly speaking the proteids are also used somewhat
as fuel, as well as for framework. It is easily seen from this
that in order to be healthy we should try to give ourselves food
containing a proper amount of building material to repair the
breakage and wear and tear in the engine, and also give ourselves
enough fuel to make the boiler do its greatest possible work. For
if we do not have sufficient building material we break down, and
if we do not have sufficient fuel we lack energy. Food thus properly
proportioned is called a "well balanced ration."
A well balanced ration per day for the average human being is
as follows:
Proteids, - - - - - - .40 lbs.
Starch, - - - - - - - 1.00 "
Fats, - - - - - - - - .40 "
Mineral matter, - - - .10 "
-----------
1.90 lbs.
The above is the amount of nutriment necessary, and in addition to this
there should be sufficient bulk to keep the digestive organs healthy. We
are just now entering upon the era of intelligence in relation to our
food. It seems strange that this intelligence should first be applied to
our domestic animals rather than to man. As soon as the farmer
discovered that to make his animals pay better he must give them the
right proportions of building material and fuel for energy, he demanded
that the agricultural chemists give him directions for mixing and
preparing their food. But how few of the cooks in our land understand in
the slightest degree this necessity for the proper proportions to our
food! When they do we may look forward to entering upon an era of serene
good health, when we shall have strength to bear and ability to do.
In answering the following list of questions you may be obliged to
consult with the miller, or feed-dealer, but it is to be hoped that you
will gain a clear conception of the parts of the seed used in making
foods from cereals.
1. What is graham flour? How does it differ from white wheat flour?
2. What is whole wheat flour?
3. What is bran?
4. What is cracked wheat?
5. What are shorts, middlings, or canaille?
6. Which of the above are considered the more nutritious and why?
7. What part of the corn kernel is hominy?
8. What is corn meal?
9. Is corn bran considered good food?
10. What is gluten meal?
11. What is germ meal?
12. Why is corn fattening to cattle?
13. How much of the oat grain is contained in oat meal?
14. What is a cotyledon?
15. Show by sketch or describe the cotyledon in the chestnut, the walnut
or hickory nut, and the bean.
16. Describe or show by sketch the position of the germinal portion in
each of these.
If you cannot find the germ in these, soak them in water for several
days and then observe.
The following publications may be had from the Department of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C., on application:
Circular No. 46, Revised--The Functions and Uses of Food. By C. F.
Langworthy.
Circular No. 43, Revised--Food-Nutrients-Food Economy. The Cost of Food
as Related to its Nutritive Value. By R. D. Milner.
A PROBLEM IN FEEDING.
As our knowledge increases, we give greater attention to the economical
and efficient use of all feeds for live-stock. We cannot afford to feed
even the corn stalks carelessly, either for the immediate concern of the
pocket-book or for the good of the animal. The results of many
experiments in feeding lead to the conclusion that a suitable daily
ration for a cow giving milk and weighing 1,000 pounds should contain 24
pounds of dry matter, of which 2.5 pounds is digestible protein; .4
pounds digestible fat; and 12.5 pounds digestible carbohydrates. In such
a ration, the ratio of digestible protein to digestible carbohydrates in
the ration will be as 1 is to 5.4. In computing this ratio the amount of
fat, multiplied by 2.4, is added to the carbohydrates. The fiber and the
nitrogen-free extract constitute the carbohydrates. Individual animals
vary so much in digestive capacity and in other respects that the
foregoing standards may be frequently widely departed from to advantage.
Thus many animals will profitably use more than 24 pounds of dry matter
in a day and the ratio of protein to carbohydrates may vary from 1:5 to
1:6.5 without materially affecting the amount or character of the
product. Standards are useful as guides. The art of feeding and the
skill of the feeder consist in determining in how far the standard
should be conformed to or departed from in each individual case.
Suppose a farmer has corn silage and timothy hay, and may purchase
cotton seed meal, wheat bran and buckwheat middlings, how may they be
combined so that the ration shall contain 24 pounds dry matter, and the
ratio of protein to the carbohydrates shall be approximately 1:5.4? The
following table gives the data:
Water. Protein. Fiber. Nitrogen-free Fat.
extract.
In 100 pounds of silage[60]. 79.1 1.2 4.3 7.4 .6
Timothy hay 13.2 3.4 16.8 28.4 1.2
Cotton seed meal 8.2 31.3 1.3 10.9 11.9
Wheat bran 11.9 13.6 1.8 43.1 3.2
Buckwheat middlings 13.2 22. [61] 33.4 5.4
[60] Silage is often put up when the corn is more mature, and then the
water content is less than here given.
[61] Included with nitrogen-free extract.
LEAFLET XLV.
THE LIFE HISTORY OF A BEET.[62]
BY MARY ROGERS MILLER.
[62] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. IV, No. 29, February, 1903.
[Illustration]
If you are fond of a dish of "greens" made of young beet leaves in early
summer, you must see to it that there are beets in the garden. What
shall be planted? Seeds. Certainly; but where do the seeds come from?
Most of us buy them from a seedsman, it is true; but somebody must grow
them. They are not manufactured articles. If the beet plant produces
seeds it must first have flowers. Have you ever seen the beet in
blossom? When do the flowers come and how do they look?
Study the picture in Leaflet LII. Read the history beneath the picture.
Better still, get a plump red beet from the cellar, and plant it in a
can, a box, or a flower-pot. If no beets are to be had, a turnip, a
carrot, or a parsnip will do as well. It seems that "plants" come from
beet roots as well as from beet seed. The root you plant in the
flower-pot grew last summer from a seed. When may we expect the plant to
produce seeds of its own, thus multiplying according to its nature? If
you keep a beet plant long enough it will answer this question.
Beet seeds are rather slow in germinating. For this reason it is common
to soak them in warm water several hours or a day before planting in the
garden. These facts are interesting in themselves; and instead of being
discouraged should we not try to find out some reason why the beet seed
should take more time than the corn or the bean? From a comparative
study of a beet seedling and of a plant which comes from a beet root
throughout a season, one may learn the whole life history of a beet.
This story is not written down in books. Every stage of growth noted in
the two plants should be regarded as typical of the life of an
individual, for each plant must pass through all these stages in its
development from seed to seed again.
The seedling beet pushes out roots and begins early to take food from
the soil. One may even see the root-hairs through which the liquids
enter the plant. Inquire if the plant growing from a beet root has put
out new roots. Have not its old ones dried long ago in the cellar? It is
a good idea to have more than one plant, so that investigation of a
matter like this may go on without disturbing all. Where, if not from
the soil through roots, does the food come from which nourishes those
thick-ribbed leaves? From the stored-up material in the root, does it
not? Is this not the plant's way of providing for the second half of its
life, after a long resting period in the "beet" stage? When the "plant"
or top has grown quite large, how does the old beet look?
We may read in the botany that certain plants are biennials, taking two
seasons to pass through all the phases from seed to seed; but we shall
not know the joy of gaining knowledge from original sources nor
experience the mental training that comes with this "finding out"
process until we have actually planted the beets or other things and
watched them grow.
The following questions relate to the study of a beet plant. Any other
available plant may be reported on. The important thing is that a minute
study be made of some particular plant.
What plant are you making this special study of this month?
What care do you give it?
What conditions of temperature and moisture do you find most beneficial
to its growth?
What other plants are related to it? (Mention a wild and a cultivated
plant.)
What leads you to think them related? (Make this clear and definite.)
How do the plants which come from beet roots differ from those which
come from the seed?
Of what utility to the plant is the fleshy root of beet, turnip, or
carrot? When is this root made use of by the plant?
What becomes of the old beet as the plant grows larger and stronger?
What is the natural length of life of an individual beet plant?
Through how many changes of form does it pass? Which of these are
"resting" stages?
Give the events in the life history of a beet in chronological order by
seasons, beginning with a seed in the spring of 1903, and ending with
the first crop of ripened seed.
LEAFLET XLVI.
PRUNING.[63]
BY MARY ROGERS MILLER.
[63] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. IV, No. 20, February, 1902.
[Illustration]
You should know how the trees in your school yard have been pruned. Who
did the work, nature or a man with a saw? Some people hold to the idea
that pruning is unnatural, and therefore should not be practiced. Let us
see if this is true. Have you ever gone into the deep woods after a
storm? Who has been there, tearing and wrenching at the big limbs,
twisting the small branches until the ground is strewn with wreckage?
Nature has been pruning a few trees and she works with a fury which is
awe-inspiring. But the trees are much the worse for their encounter with
the forces they must obey without question. Their branches are broken;
mere stubs are left. With the melting snow and the April rains germs of
decay are likely to enter at every break in the bark. In a few years the
trunk may be weakened and the monarch of the woods lie prone upon the
forest floor.
We may learn the lesson of how not to prune by looking at this great
pine tree torn by the storm (Fig. 281).
"But why do we prune?" one asks. Let the horticulturist answer. In a
Farmers' Reading-Course lesson on The Care of Trees, Professor Craig
says: "Fruit trees must be pruned. If a tree in an open field is allowed
to go unpruned, the crown soon becomes a dense mass of twigs and
interlacing branches. Such a tree may produce as large a number of
apples as a well-pruned, open-headed tree, but will there be the same
percentage of merchantable fruit? The chief effort of every plant under
natural conditions is expended in ensuring its own reproduction. This is
chiefly effected by means of seeds. A small apple may contain as many
seeds as a large one and even more. The orchardist wants big fruits, and
if they are nearly seedless so much the better."
[Illustration: _Fig. 281. A pine tree pruned by the storm._]
In a tree top there is a sharp struggle for existence. But few of the
twigs which started from last year's buds will reach any considerable
size. One needs only to count the dead and the dormant buds on a branch,
and the weak, stubby, or decayed side shoots to appreciate this fact. If
part of the branches are cut out, this struggle is reduced and energy is
saved. By judicious pruning the tree may be shaped to suit the needs of
the owner. If a low tree is desired to make fruit-gathering easy pruning
keeps the head down. An open, spreading habit may be encouraged by
cutting out such branches as tend to grow close to the main trunk. A
careful orchardist has an ideal in his mind and knows how to prune to
bring the tree up to his standard. He knows the habits of trees of
different varieties. He will not prune all alike. He must prune some
every year, or the trees will not carry out his plans.
The pruner should not only know why he prunes, but how the work should
be done. He should be able to tell why he removes one limb and leaves
another. When I look at the trees in parks and along the streets I
wonder at the careless pruning. Judging from the way they are treated
one would think that a tree could be produced in "a year or two or three
at most."
Pruning should not be confined to fruit trees. It may be practiced with
profit on all kinds of plants from shade trees to house plants. Pinching
off the terminal bud of a young geranium makes the plant branch. Cutting
the lower limbs of a young elm makes the tree more stately. Nature may
do this, but broken branches leave wounds which the tree cannot heal.
Small branches may be cut close with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
The tree readily heals these places. It is little short of a crime to
break or tear limbs from trees. The injury done to the trees is bad
enough; but does not such heedless treatment of living things also have
a baneful influence on the mutilator?
For larger branches, if these must come off, no tool is better than a
sharp saw. The cut should be smooth and clean. No ragged edges of bark
should be left. The branch should all be cut off, and care should be
taken not to tear the bark about the wound. If a stub six or eight
inches long, or even one inch, be left, the tree is likely to suffer.
The branch started years ago from a bud on the side of the main trunk,
then but a twig itself. The fibers of the branch are continuous with
those of the trunk. In the air are the germs of decay. These take hold
of the bare stub and soon make their way to the center of the tree
itself. Try as it may, the tree cannot quickly heal a wound so far from
the main paths traveled by the sap in the trunk.
[Illustration: _Fig. 282. Close cutting results in prompt healing._]
The two illustrations (Figs. 282, 283) show the right and the wrong way
to remove a limb. When the branch is cut close, new growth takes place
all around the cut surface and in a few years the wound is healed.
[Illustration: _Fig. 283. The long stub does not heal._]
Bad pruning is worse than no pruning. Do you not think that nature
students should use their influence to protect the trees in the school
grounds, in the door yards, and along the streets? Trees have insect and
fungous enemies enough without having to contend against carelessness
and neglect.
QUESTIONS ON PRUNING.
1. Describe the results of some of the natural forces you have seen
pruning trees. Observe willows after a storm.
2. Are all sorts of trees affected alike by wind, ice, and snow?
3. From your observations which kinds suffer most? Give your opinion as
to why.
4. Nature does not always prune in this boisterous fashion. Silent
forces are at work pruning out the weak buds and shoots, giving the
strong ones a better chance. Select a very young tree, or a shrub like
the lilac. Examine the tips of the branches. You will find healthy buds
on last season's growth. See if you can find any dormant buds. Are there
any weak-looking or dead twigs?
5. Compare the number of strong healthy shoots with the number which the
plant started to make. How many of each?
6. Mention several good effects which may result from pruning.
7. What are some of the bad results of over-pruning? Of insufficient
pruning?
8. Consult some orchard-owner concerning this subject. When does he
prune to increase the production of fruit? When to increase the growth
of the woody part of the tree?
9. If the lower branches of a tree are not removed, what is the effect
on the shape of the tree?
10. For what kinds of trees is this form desirable?
11. What is your opinion as to the shearing of evergreens into fantastic
shapes?
12. If a tree has a tendency to grow crooked, how should one prune to
correct the habit?
13. Would you prune an elm tree just as you would an apple tree? Why?
14. Why does pinching off the terminal bud of a geranium produce a more
bushy plant?
15. Discuss in full the reasons for cutting a limb off smoothly and
close to the main trunk or larger branch. Look at every tree you pass to
see whether it has been pruned well. Has it been able to cover its
wounds by the healing process?
16. Is it correct to suppose that "anybody" can prune a tree?
17. The cut surfaces made by pruning large limbs from trees are often
covered with thick paint, tar, or Bordeaux mixture. What is the purpose
of this?
18. Why is it better to prune a little every year than a great deal once
in five years?
19. When is the best time to prune shade trees? Why?
20. Does a tree carry the bases of its branches upward as it grows
higher, or does the base of every branch remain at the level from which
it started originally? Observe many trees in different situations before
making up your mind on this point.
LEAFLET XLVII.
A STUDY OF A TREE.[64]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[64] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. V, No. 2, November, 1903.
THE SUGAR MAPLE.
The maple puts her corals on in May,
While loitering frosts about the lowlands cling,
To be in tune with what the robins sing,
Plastering new log-huts 'mid her branches gray;
But when the autumn southward turns away,
Then in her veins burns most the blood of Spring,
And every leaf, intensely blossoming,
Makes the year's sunset pale the set of day.
--LOWELL.
[Illustration]
Like a friend is a tree, in that it needs to be known season after
season and year after year in order to be truly appreciated. A person
who has not had an intimate, friendly acquaintance with some special
tree has missed something from life. Yet even those of us who love a
tree because we find its shade a comfort in summer and its bare branches
etched against the sky a delight in winter, may have very little
understanding of the wonderful life-processes which have made this tree
a thing of beauty. If we would become aware of the life of our tree we
must study it carefully. We should best begin by writing in a blank book
week after week what happens to our tree for a year. If we keep such a
diary, letting the tree dictate what we write, we shall then know more
of the life of our tree.
In selecting a tree for this lesson I have chosen the sugar maple, for
several reasons. It is everywhere common; it is beautiful; it is most
useful; and it has been unanimously chosen as the representative tree
of the Empire State. Let each of us choose some maple tree in our
immediate vicinity that shall be the subject for our lesson now, and
again in the winter, and again in the spring. Our first thought in this
study is that a tree is a living being, in a measure like ourselves, and
that it has been confronted with many difficult problems which it must
have solved successfully, since it is alive. It has found breathing
space and food; it has won room for its roots in the earth and for its
branches in the light; and it has matured its seeds and planted them for
a new generation.
[Illustration: _Fig. 284. Sugar maple._]
[Illustration: _Fig. 285. A sugar maple grown in an open field._]
BRIEF PHYSIOLOGY OF THE TREE.
The tree lives by breathing and by getting its daily food. It breathes
through the numerous pores in its leaves, and green bark, and roots. The
leaves are often called the lungs of the tree, but the young bark also
has many openings into which the air penetrates, and the roots get air
that is present in the soil. So the tree really breathes all over its
active surface, and by this process takes in oxygen from the air. It
gives off carbon dioxid as we do when we breathe.
[Illustration: _Fig. 286. Silver maple._]
While the leaves act as partial lungs they have two other most important
functions. First, they must manufacture the food for the entire tree.
"Starch factories" is the name that Uncle John gives to the leaves when
he talks to children, and it is a good name. The leaf is the factory;
the green pulp in the leaf cells is part of the machinery; the machinery
is set in motion by sun-shine power instead of steam or water power; the
raw materials are taken from the air and from the sap sent up from the
roots; the first product is usually starch. Thus, it is well when we
begin the study of our tree to notice that the leaves are so arranged as
to gain all sunlight possible, for without sunlight the starch factories
would be obliged to "shut down." It has been estimated that on a mature
maple of vigorous growth there is exposed to the sun nearly a half acre
of leaf surface. Our tree appears to us in an unfamiliar light when we
think of it as a starch factory covering half an acre. Plants are the
original starch factories. The manufactories that we build appropriate
the starch that plants make from the raw materials.
Starch is plant-food in a convenient form for storage; but as it cannot
be assimilated by plants in this form it must be changed to sugar before
it can be transported and used in building up plant tissues. Hence the
leaves have to perform the office of a stomach in order to digest the
food they have made for the use of the tree; they change the starch to
sugar, and they take from the sap nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus, and
other substances which the roots have appropriated from the soil, and to
these they add portions of the starch, and thus make the proteids which
form another part of the diet of the tree. It is interesting to know
that while these starch factories can operate only in the sunlight, the
leaves can digest the food, transport it, and build up tissues in the
dark.
[Illustration: _Fig. 287. The bole of a sugar maple grown in a wood._]
The autumn leaf, which is so beautiful, has completed its work. The
green material which colors the pulp in the leaf cells is withdrawn,
leaving there material which is useless, so far as the growing of the
tree is concerned, but which glows gold and red, thereby making glad the
eye that loves the varying tints in autumn foliage. It is a mistake to
believe that the frost makes these brilliant colors: they are caused by
the natural old age and death of the leaf, and where is there to be
found old age and death more beautiful? When the leaf turns yellow or
red it is making ready to depart from the tree; a thin corky layer is
being developed between its petiole and the twig, and when this is
finally accomplished the leaf drops from its own weight, from the touch
of the lightest breeze, or from a frost on a cold night.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE MAPLES.
We want you to know the maples from actual observation.
Discover the characteristic forms of the tree, the character of bark,
fruits, and leaves. Verify the pictures in this lesson.
Though the fruit of the sugar maple matures in midsummer, yet you may
perhaps find beneath your tree some of the keys or seeds now partially
planted. If the tree stands alone you may perchance see how well she has
strewn its seeds, and how many of its progeny have been placed in
positions where they can grow successfully.
[Illustration: _Fig. 288. Leaves and fruits of Norway maple._]
We have in New York State seven species of maple common in our forests.
Two of these are dwarf species rarely attaining thirty-five feet in
height, more often found as mere bushes. These two are the mountain
maple and the striped maple or moosewood. This latter is sometimes
called goose-foot maple, because its leaf is shaped somewhat like the
foot of a goose. Of the maples that attain to the dignity of tall trees
we have four species: the sugar maple, the silver or white maple, the
red or swamp maple, and the box elder. The leaf of the box elder does
not look like the leaf of a maple at all; it has a compound leaf of
three or five leaflets, but the flowers and fruits are those of the
maples. There is also a variety of sugar maple that is called black
maple. We have planted in our parks the sycamore and Norway maples
introduced from Europe, and also ornamental species from Japan. Our
native species are easily distinguished from these and from each other;
just a little observation as to the shape of the leaves, the form of the
trees, and the character of the bark enables a person to tell all these
species at a glance. I hope that you will become familiar with the seven
native species. Such knowledge is not only of practical use, but gives
real zest and pleasure. When a person walks in the morning he should be
able to call his tree acquaintances as well as his human acquaintances
by name.
[Illustration: _Fig. 289. Leaves and fruits of striped maple._]
QUESTIONS ON THE MAPLES.
1. How many species of maple trees do you know and what are they?
2. How do you distinguish the red maple and the silver maple from the
sugar maple?
3. What is the shape of the one tree you have chosen to study?
4. What is there in its shape to tell you of its history, _i.e._, did it
grow in the open or in the forest? Was it ever shaded on either side;
if so, what was the effect? How have the prevailing winds affected its
shape?
5. How old do you think the tree is?
6. Was the tree injured by storm or insects during the past season; if
so, how?
7. Study the leaves on this tree and note any differences in shape and
color.
8. What is the use of the skeleton of the leaf?
[Illustration: _Fig. 290. Leaves of mountain maple, sugar maple, red
maple._]
9. Is there always a bud in the axil where the leaf stalk joins the
twig?
10. How are the leaves arranged on the twig?
11. What is the color of the tree this autumn?
12. When did the leaves begin to fall? Place in your note book the date
when the tree finally becomes bare.
13. Have you found any seeds from your tree? If so, describe them.
14. How are they dispersed and planted?
15. Are both seeds of the pair filled out?
16. How high is your tree?
17. How large an area of shade does it produce? If it stands alone,
measure the ground covered by its shadow from morning until evening.
18. How has its shadow affected the plants beneath it? Are the same
plants growing there that grow in the open field?
19. Make a sketch of the tree you are studying, showing its outline.
20. Make a sketch of the leaf of the sugar maple.
LEAFLET XLVIII.
THE MAPLE IN FEBRUARY.[65]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[65] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. V, No. 5, February, 1904.
SAP.
Strong as the sea and silent as the grave, it ebbs and flows unseen:
Flooding the earth,--a fragrant tidal wave, with mists of deepening
green,
--JOHN B. TABB.
[Illustration]
"Tapping the sugar bush" are magical words to the country boy and girl.
The winter which was at first so welcome with its miracle of snow, and
its attendant joys of sleighing and skating, begins to pall by the last
of February. Too many days the clouds hang low and the swirling flakes
make out-of-door pursuits difficult. Then there comes a day when the
south wind blows blandly and the snow settles into hard, marble-like
drifts, and here and there a knoll appears bare, and soggy, and brown.
It is then that there comes just a suggestion of spring in the air; and
the bare trees show a flush of living red through their grayness and
every spray grows heavy with swelling buds. Well do we older folk
remember that in our own childhood after a few such days the father
would say, "We will get the sap buckets down from the stable loft and
wash them, for we can tap the sugar bush soon if this weather holds." In
those days the buckets were made of staves, and were by no means so
easily washed as are the metal buckets of to-day. Still do we recall the
sickish smell of musty sap that greeted our nostrils when we poured the
boiling water in to cleanse those old, brown buckets. During the long
winter evenings we had all had something to do with the fashioning of
the sap spiles made from selected stems of sumac; after some older one
had removed half of the small branch lengthwise with a draw-shave we
younger ones had cleared out the pith, thinking thirstily meanwhile of
the sweet liquid which would sometime flow there.
With buckets and spiles ready when the momentous day came, the large,
iron caldron kettle was loaded on a stoneboat together with the sap cask
and log chain, the axe and various other utensils, and as many children
as could find standing room; and then the oxen were hitched on and the
procession started across the rough pasture to the woods where it
eventually arrived after numerous stops for reloading almost everything
but the kettle. When we came to the boiling-place we lifted the kettle
into place and flanked it with two great logs, against which the fire
was to be kindled. Meanwhile the oxen and stoneboat had returned to the
house for a load of buckets; and the oxen blinking with bowed heads or
with noses lifted aloft to keep the underbrush from striking their faces
"geed and hawed" up hill and down dale through the woods, stopping here
and there while the man with the auger bored holes in certain trees near
other holes which had bled sweet juices in years gone by. When the auger
was withdrawn the sap followed it and enthusiastic young tongues met it
half way though they received more chips than sweetness therefrom. Then
the spiles were driven in tightly with a wooden mallet.
[Illustration: _Fig. 291. Sugar making in New York._]
The next day after "tapping," those of us large enough to wear the
neck-yoke donned this badge of servitude and with its help brought pails
of sap to the kettle, and the "boiling" began. As the evening shades
gathered, how delicious was the odor of the sap steam permeating the
woods farther than the shafts of fire-light pierced the gloom! How weird
and delightful was this night experience in the woods! and how
cheerfully we swallowed the smoke which the contrary wind seemed ever to
turn toward us! We poked the fire to send the sparks upward and now and
then we added more sap from the barrel and removed the scum from the
boiling liquid with a skimmer which was thrust into the cleft end of a
stick to provide it with a sufficiently long handle. As the evening wore
on we drew closer to each other as we told the stories of the Indians
and the bears and panthers that had roamed these woods when our father
was a little boy; and there came to each of us a disquieting suspicion
that perhaps they were not all gone yet, for everything seemed possible
in those night-shrouded woods; and our hearts suddenly jumped into our
throats when nearby there sounded the tremulous, blood-curdling cry of
the screech owl.
It was the most fun to gather the sap in the warmer mornings, when on
the mounds the red squaw-berries were glistening through a frosty veil;
then we looked critically at the tracks in the snow to see what visitors
had come sniffing around our buckets. We felt nothing but scorn for him
who could not translate correctly those hieroglyphics on the film of
soft snow that made white again the soiled drifts. Rabbit, skunk,
squirrel, mouse, muskrat, fox: we knew them all by their tracks.
After about three days of gathering and boiling the sap, came the
"syruping down." During all that afternoon we added no more sap, and we
watched carefully the tawny steaming mass in the kettle; and when it
threatened to boil over we threw in a thin slice of fat pork which
seemed to have some mysterious, calming influence. The odor grew more
and more delicious, and finally the syrup was pronounced sufficiently
thick. The kettle was swung off the logs and the syrup dripped through a
cloth strainer into the carrying pail. Oh! the blackness of the material
left on that strainer! but it was "clean woods-dirt" and never destroyed
our faith in the maple sugar any more than did the belief that our
friends were made of "dirt" destroy our friendship for them.
Now the old stave bucket and the sumac spile are gone, and in their
place a patent galvanized spile not only conducts the sap but holds in
place a tin bucket carefully covered. The old caldron kettle is broken
or lies rusting in the shed. In its place are evaporating vats placed
over furnaces with chimneys, built in the new-fangled sugar houses. The
maple molasses of to-day seems to us a pale and anæmic liquid and lacks
just that delicious flavor of the rich, dark nectar which we, with the
help of cinders and smoke and various other things, brewed of yore in
the open woods.
While sugar-making interests us chiefly as one of our own industries,
yet we must not forget that it is based upon the life processes of the
maple tree, and in studying about it we may be able to learn important
facts about the tree which we have chosen for our study.
QUESTIONS ON THE MAPLE TREE.
1. How does the maple tree look in winter? Describe it or sketch it.
2. Are the buds on the twigs opposite or alternate?
3. Are the tips of the twigs the same color as the bark on the larger
limbs and trunk?
4. If you can draw, make a pencil sketch, natural size, of three inches
square of bark of the maple tree trunk.
5. How does the bark on the trunk differ from that on the branches?
6. How does the bark on the trunk of a maple tree differ from that on
the trunk of a soft maple or an elm?
7. What work for the tree do the trunk and branches perform?
8. Is the tree tapped on all sides? If not, why?
9. How deep must the spiles be driven successfully to draw off the sap?
10. Would you tap a tree directly above or at the same spot tapped last
year; or would you place two spiles one above the other? Give reasons.
11. Why does the sap flow more freely on warm days after cold nights?
12. Is the sap of which we make sugar going up or down?
13. How does the sugar come to be in the sap?
14. Why is the sugar made during the "first run" better than that which
is made later? Why cannot you make sugar in the summer?
15. Does it injure trees to tap them?
16. Do the holes made in earlier years become farther apart as the tree
grows?
17. What other trees besides the sugar maple give sweet sap?
18. What animals, birds, and insects are to be seen in the woods during
sugar-making time?
19. Have you ever seen the tracks of animals on the snow in the woods?
If so, make pictures of them and tell what animals made them.
LEAFLET XLIX.
THE RED SQUIRREL OR CHICKAREE.[66]
BY ANNA BOTSFORD COMSTOCK.
[66] Home Nature-Study Course, Vol. V, No. 2, November, 1903.
"All day long the red squirrels came and went, and afforded
me much entertainment by their manoeuvres. One would approach
at first warily through the shrub-oaks, running over the snow
crust by fits and starts like a leaf blown by the wind, now a
few paces this way, with wonderful speed and waste of energy,
making inconceivable haste with his "trotters" as if it were for
a wager, and now as many paces that way, but never getting on
more than half a rod at a time; and then suddenly pausing with
a ludicrous expression and a gratuitous somerset, as if all the
eyes in the universe were fixed on him,--for all the motions of
a squirrel, even in the most solitary recesses of the forest,
imply spectators as much as those of a dancing girl,--wasting more
time in delay and circumspection than would have sufficed to walk
the whole distance,--I never saw one walk,--and then suddenly,
before you could say Jack Robinson, he would be in the top of a
young pitch-pine, winding up his clock and chiding all imaginary
spectators, soliloquizing and talking to all the universe at the
same time,--for no reason that I could ever detect, or he himself
was aware of, I suspect."--THOREAU.
[Illustration]
From contact with civilization some wild animals flourish while others
are soon exterminated by association with man. To this latter class
belongs the black squirrel. Within my own memory this beautiful creature
was almost as common in the rural districts of New York State as was the
red squirrel; but now it is seen no more except in most retired places;
while the red squirrel, pugnacious and companionable, defiant and shy,
climbs on our very roofs and sits there scolding us for daring to come
within his range of vision. One reason for the disappearance of the
black squirrel is, undoubtedly, the fact that its meat is a delicious
food. The red squirrel is also good food at certain times of the year,
but because of its lesser size, and its greater agility and cunning, it
has succeeded in living not merely despite of man, but because of man,
for now he rifles corn cribs and grain bins and waxes opulent by levying
tribute on man's own savings.
Although the red squirrel is familiar to us all, yet, I think, there are
few who really know its habits, which are as interesting as are those of
bear or lion. Note, for example, the way he peeps at us from the far
side of the tree, and the way he uses his tail as a balance and a help
in steering as he leaps. This same tail he uses in the winter as a boa
by wrapping it around himself as he lies curled up in his snug house.
His vocal exercises are most entertaining also; he is the only singer I
know who can carry two parts at a time. Notice some time this autumn
when the hickory nuts are ripe that the happy red squirrel is singing
you a duet all by himself,--a high, shrill chatter, with a low chuckling
accompaniment.
We usually regard nuts as the main food of squirrels, but this is not
necessarily so; for they are fond of the seeds of pines and hemlocks,
and also hang around our orchards for apple-seeds. In fact, their diet
is varied. The red squirrel is a great thief and keeps his keen eye on
chipmunks and mice, hoping to find where they store their food so that
he can steal it if he can do so without danger to his precious self.
QUESTIONS ON THE RED SQUIRREL.
We want you to make some original observations on the red squirrel.
1. In summer, what is the color of the red squirrel on the upper parts?
Beneath?
2. What is the color along the side where the two colors join?
3. Do these colors change in winter?
4. Tell how and where the squirrel makes its nest.
5. Does it carry nuts in its teeth or in its cheeks?
6. Has it cheek pockets like the chipmunk?
7. Does the red squirrel store food for winter use? If so, where?
8. Does it spend its time sleeping in winter like the chipmunk, or does
it go out often to get food?
9. Name all the kinds of food which you know it eats.
10. Did you ever see a red squirrel disturb birds' nests?
11. How does a squirrel get at the meat of a hard-shelled nut like a
black walnut, or a hickory nut? (Answer this by a sketch, if you can
draw.)
12. Do the squirrels of your neighborhood have certain paths in
tree-tops which they follow?
13. How many emotions does the squirrel express with his voice?
14. What kind of tracks does the red squirrel make in the snow? (Show
this by a sketch if possible.)
LEAFLET L.
THE IMPROVEMENT OF COUNTRY SCHOOL GROUNDS.[67]
BY JOHN W. SPENCER.
[67] Supplement to Junior Naturalist Monthly, February, 1902.
[Illustration]
MY DEAR TEACHER:
Despite all that is said and done the average school ground is far short
of its possibilities in an artistic way. Of this you are well aware, and
no doubt you have often wished that you might remedy this defect. Your
hours are full of arduous work. Perhaps, however, you can interest your
children to help you to clean and to improve the grounds, without much
extra care or work on your part.
This illustration of a schoolhouse (Fig. 292) is taken from Bulletin
160, published by the College of Agriculture of Cornell University. The
title of the bulletin is "Hints on Rural School Grounds." I wish you
would send for the bulletin. It will be mailed you free if you request
it.
The picture is not an imaginary sketch, but a faithful representation of
what stood in a prosperous rural community less than five years ago. To
one familiar with country school buildings it will not be considered as
a solitary "awful example," but rather as a type of many that are
scattered over the State. I hope it is not your misfortune to be
teaching in such a house, even though it is my desire to reach every
teacher who is that luckless. However, to make my talk more real let us
"make believe," as children say, that you are the priestess in a similar
temple of learning. Together we will plan how we can make the most of
very uncongenial surroundings.
[Illustration: _Fig. 292. A country school property._]
It would be safe to wager a red apple that the inside of the building is
every bit as dilapidated as the outside. A community that tolerates such
a building would not be likely to have anything but the rudest furniture
and most of that on crutches. It would be something out of the usual if
the box stove is not short a leg or two, with brick-bats being used as
substitutes. You will be fortunate if the stove door has two good hinges
and if the wood is not green. At the last school meeting, did the
patrons instruct the trustees not to pay more than six dollars per week
for your services? Was the proposition that the district raise five
dollars, to which the State would add five more for the purchase of
books for a library, unanimously voted down and the poor man who
introduced the resolution expected to apologize for his temerity? The
leading man in the district each Sunday during summer drives two miles
to salt his young stock, inspect fences, and see how the yearlings are
prospering; but he never thinks of visiting the school to see how his
children are progressing. Yet the people of this district are not bad.
They are counted good citizens by the bar and judge, when they are drawn
on juries. The public buildings at the county-seat are models of their
kind and these gentlemen do not remonstrate as to the expense. Perhaps
it has not occurred to them that school buildings and grounds should
have as high a standard as those of the county. A correct public ideal
is everything. It is not a hopeless undertaking to advance such an ideal
in the community of which we are speaking.
I suggest to you as teacher in this school to undertake some
improvements in the grounds. I consider the above sketch to be a zero
case. If improvements can be developed here, it is reasonable to suppose
that the same can be repeated where conditions are primarily better. The
possibilities are sufficient to warrant the undertaking. The victory
will add to your strength. The lives of the children will be better
filled for the part they may do, and you will have started a public
improvement.
[Illustration: _Fig. 293. "The girls organized themselves into a
tug-of-war team."_]
I should not appeal to the parents for help. You have a fountain of
power in the children. It is necessary only to inspire and guide them.
This is no theory of mine. It is a result that has been worked out in
many instances.
The beautiful city of Rochester is proud of its schools. The development
of the town made the construction of new school buildings necessary to
such an extent that little money remained for the improvement of the
grounds. Some of them were located in the breadwinners' districts. The
grounds were as the contractor left them; your imagination can picture
their condition. The interiors were well nigh perfect. The exterior was
sometimes a Sahara of mud and builders' rubbish. The principal of one of
the schools--a woman, by the way,--knowing the force in children, set
about to apply it to the improvement of the surroundings. Her method was
first to inspire, and then to direct. Her success was ample. Both boys
and girls participated. The girls organized themselves into a tug-of-war
team (Fig. 293). By fastening ropes to sticks and beams, these things
were hauled out of sight. The boys leveled the hummocks and brought
fertile soil from some distance. This principal confined her
improvements to small areas--so small that the children wanted to do
more when they were through. From the time school opened until the
rigors of winter stopped the juvenile improvements, only part of the
space from the front of the building to the street was graded. Some of
the boys brought chaff from a haymow, which was raked in as lawn grass
seed. The following spring quite as many weeds appeared as grass, but
the children gave the weeds the personification of robbers and made
their career short. The promoters had a just pride in what they had
accomplished; and that meagre bit of lawn meant vastly more to them than
had it been made by a high-salaried landscape gardener.
I am acquainted with another instance, where the patrons are largely
Polish Jews. I am credibly informed that the average head of a family
does not have a gross annual income to exceed three hundred and fifty
dollars. This necessitates that the mother go out for work and that the
children leave school as soon as the law allows to take up work. Yet
with all these unfavorable circumstances the pupils have a pride in
their school grounds that is glorious to see. In the fall of 1901 prizes
were offered for the greatest improvement of school grounds made by
children. Nothing daunted, the principal entered his grounds in
competition with those in the more wealthy part of the city. The
committee of awards gave him the third prize. To judge from the mere
physical side, the decision was no doubt just; but when judged on the
score of getting the greatest results from the least material, the
principal and his school may have deserved the first prize, plus a
reward.
The chances are that your fuel is wood, and perhaps not very
dry at that. It is in a pile in the open. Sometimes the sticks are
scattered over half the lot. This you can prevent by properly
appealing to the pride of your pupils. You will find that they
wish to be more tidy than is the school over in Whippoorwill Hollow
or in some other district that is considered to be a little more
in the back country than your own.
About the time you hear the first spring notes of the bluebird and the
robin, prepare public opinion in your little school community for a
spring furnishing. You can devise many ways to inspire them. Tell them
about Col. George R. Waring and his white brigade and what they did to
make New York City cleaner than it had been for many decades before.
After the Spanish war, when Cuba became a responsibility upon the United
States, the question arose as to what could be done to make filthy
Havana cleaner and freer from yellow fever. No one was thought by the
Federal government so competent to solve the problem as Colonel Waring.
He went, spared not himself, and did his duty, did it so fearlessly that
he died the victim of the filth he had fought so valiantly. He had done
much during previous years to commend his memory to posterity; but
probably nothing will stand out so prominently as his great ability to
correct municipal untidiness. Ask your pupils to be Warings in their own
neighborhoods.
By this time the ground will be bare of snow and it will be soft. Ask
some of the pupils to bring rakes, and have them gather up the rubbish.
You can all play gypsies when you gather about the bonfire. This will be
a favorable time to sow grass seed; for I have no doubt the school lot
will need it. A lawn mixture of seed would be ideal, but I hardly expect
you to pay for it. At this stage of your improvements, I scarcely expect
that any of the patrons of your school would do so either. Later some of
them may feel differently. Your pupils can at least follow the plan of
those spoken of in Rochester--get chaff from a haymow. It will
inevitably be a mixture of grass and weeds, but the latter can be pulled
out after germinating. It is barely possible that some farmer will give
you some clover and timothy, such as he uses in seeding his meadow; and
this will be far better.
Next, I should put out a hitching-post. When your school commissioner
calls it will be appreciated. If that functionary does not publicly
compliment your school for even such small improvements, I wish you
would report such indifference to me, giving his full address, and I
will request him to explain this forgetfulness.
Good results in landscape-gardening depend on observing certain
principles, the same as with our wardrobe. Many a clever girl will
accomplish more in dress with twenty-five dollars than others can do
with twice that amount. Among the first and most important efforts is to
make a frame or setting for the house by planting around the borders of
the place. Sometimes the location will make this inconvenient if not
impossible, when, for instance, the building is placed near the street
or crowded between other buildings. Even in such cases, however, it is
well to keep the idea clearly in mind and to approach it as nearly as
circumstances will permit. An illustration of a normal location to which
this principle can be applied is shown in Fig. 294. The trees and the
higher shrubs are planted first and on the extreme borders of the lot,
with shorter shrubs, roses, and the like in front of them. This frame
can be given a finish by planting flowers or very low things next the
grass. If the area be ample, let the edges be irregular (Fig. 294); but
if very limited, straight lines become necessary.
[Illustration: _Fig. 294. Showing how the borders may be planted._]
The open space within the boundaries should be a mat of green carpeting,
for nothing can be more beautiful than sward. Fight all influences to
bedeck it with beds of flowers in forms of stars and moons and other
celestial and terrestrial designs. The demands for such capers may be
great, but hold out against them boldly. Certain small shrubs, ferns,
and flowers may be planted along the walls of the building, particularly
in the angles; but I beg of you to leave the green plat unscalloped and
unspoiled, only as is necessary for drives and walks. When the buildings
are unsightly, cover with vines and plant bushes against them. Fig. 295
illustrates how Fig. 292 may be improved with very little effort.
Now I will speak of the actual planting. In the light of unnumbered
thousands of Arbor Day trees put out to struggle a few weeks for life
and then die, this may seem the most important feature of my article. To
the unsuccessful planter, let me suggest that he select shrubs and trees
which take care of themselves under adverse conditions. We have a
number of such. If they were imported from Japan and sold at fancy
prices, they would be greatly appreciated. The common sumac is one of
them. For a shrub I know of nothing of its class so sure to bear the
ordeal of transplanting or to make more vigorous growth under adverse
conditions. It can be pruned to suit, and nothing can rival its blaze of
color in late autumn; yet as a farmer, I know the experience of fighting
against its existence in fence corners, about stone piles, and on steep
hillsides. I do this even though I am fond of the shrub and admire it.
It encroaches on my vineyard and injures the crop. Grapes will help pay
taxes and sumac will not. In my cherry orchard it is a weed. In my back
yard and on the borders of my lawn it is an ornamental shrub. The same
can be observed of people. When in their proper sphere they are helpful
factors in a community; when out of it they are nuisances.
[Illustration: _Fig. 295. How the grounds in Fig. 292 may be improved._]
If you ask me to mention a tree most likely to live when planted by
unskilled hands, I should name the willow. I mean the most common kind
to be found in the northern States--the kind that stands beside the
roadside watering-trough. The impression is common that willows will
thrive only in wet places. It is true that a willow is very comfortable
in places where many other trees will suffer from wet feet; yet it will
give good results elsewhere. It is reasonable to suppose that poor soil
goes with a poor school building, and a refined tree would probably
find life hard in such a place. I should certainly plant a willow in
such cases. It will thrive where a goat can, and where a sheep cannot.
For city places, the Carolina poplar is to be recommended. If the soil
is good enough, plant maples, elms, or other trees.
A judicious planting of Virginia creeper helps the appearance of
buildings both good and bad. I should surely plant it about the main
building and the outbuildings and fences, if the patrons of the school
did not object. The probabilities are that when the vines have begun to
cover some of the deformities of the place, some finicky resident of the
district will cut them out on the plea that they promote decay of the
weather-beaten clap-boards; but do not be discouraged by such a
possibility. Vines, too, usually interfere with the painting of a
building. Although they may be taken down and put back after the
painters are through, the first effect is not regained unless the
process of putting back has been done with unusual care.
Do not make the mistake of planting too much. A small lawn can be
overdressed as is sometimes the case with women. Lilac, Japan quince,
syringa, hydrangea, and like common shrubs, could be planted if the
opportunities of space seem to warrant.
I hope it will be your taste to allow the limbs of the trees to start
low and those of the shrubs to begin as near the ground as possible. I
am aware that among country people it is the practice to tolerate only
the higher limbs. I can give a reason for this only on the supposition
that they must do something in pruning, and the lower limbs are the most
convenient to reach. I know a man who came into possession of a place
having a fine lot of evergreens with the lower branches at the ground.
By way of proclaiming a change of ownership he cut away the lower
branches, leaving a bare trunk of about five feet. Before he touched
them they were beautiful green cones and when passing the place I always
turned my face in their direction to enjoy the beauty. When he was
through they were standing on one leg, and a wooden leg at that. I have
never felt kindly toward the man since.
In the matter of planting I know of no better method than that of the
experienced orchardist. As a rule he buys his trees of a nurseryman.
They are often dug in the fall, and are planted the following spring.
During the interval they are stored in specially constructed cellars,
and at no time are the roots permitted to become dry. When packed for
shipment damp moss is placed about the roots. When the orchardist
removes them from the packing box he "heels" them in, which is a kind of
probationary planting in shallow furrows where they stand until ready to
be set out permanently. When that time comes the trees are taken from
the trench and the roots plunged in a tub of thin mud or doused with
water and covered with a blanket. An orchardist counts a tree lost if
the roots have been allowed to remain in the sun until the small
rootlets have so dried that they have a gray appearance.
In taking the young tree from the nursery row only a fraction of the
original roots go with the tree, and these are badly bruised at the
point of cleavage. These ragged ends should be dressed smoothly by means
of a slanting cut with a knife. All mutilated roots should be removed.
You must bear in mind that the roots you find with the trees are capable
of performing but a small part of what was done by all the roots when
growing in their native place.
The hole in which the tree is set should be large enough to accommodate
the roots without cramping them out of their natural positions. It is
important that the earth used for filling should be fertile, and it is
doubly important that it should be fine--even superfine. Clods, even
small clods like marbles, will not snuggle up to the bark of the root as
closely as is absolutely necessary. Set the tree about an inch deeper
than you think it originally stood, so that when planted and the earth
settles, it will really be about the same depth. All the earth should
not be dumped in at once and then the surface pressed firm with the
feet. A close examination will show that the soil has "bridged" in
places, leaving many roots in tiny caverns. It is important that fine
soil should be snuggled close to each little rootlet, not for warmth but
for moisture. Fill the hole by installments of one-third at each
filling. Sprinkle the fine earth about the roots. Then dash in a third
of a pail of water. This will give the roots much needed moisture and,
best of all, will wash the earth about each root fiber. I urge the
adoption of this careful method for all trees and shrubs, not excepting
the sumac and willow. Even wallows will show their gratitude for such
considerate treatment, even though they are able to survive rougher
usage. They will pay for it when the drought and neglect of summer come.
The most common mistake made in the selection of trees is in taking
those that are too large. For the conditions that we have under
consideration, I suggest that a tree no larger than a broom-handle be
chosen. I know that the common feeling is, "we shall have to wait too
long for our shade." Unless the larger tree is in the hands of an
expert, the smaller will be the more desirable at the end of five years.
I much prefer, moreover, the selection of a tree or shrub growing in the
sunshine, rather than one from the shade.
I have one final request to make, which to the novice will be the most
difficult of all and one which he is quite likely to fail in performing
because of lack of moral courage. I mean the cutting back of the top of
the tree or shrub after planting. Before the removal of the tree, the
roots probably found pasturage in a cart load of soil. After planting,
the root pasturage is not more than half a bushel of soil. What follows
when the forces of plant growth begin? A demand for soil products, with
a very much restricted means of supply. The top must be cut back to
match the shortened root system. Thousand of trees die every year
because this principle is not duly observed and the failure is often
attributed to the nurseryman. The amount necessary to cut back differs
with different trees and shrubs. No hard and fast rules can be given.
With willows and sumacs one-third to one-half of everything bearing leaf
buds can be cut away. With a maple having a diameter of one and a half
inches at the butt, I should suggest that about one-third of the branch
area be left to grow.
In this article I have had in mind the improvement of school grounds
where all the conditions are at zero--where the building would be a
discredit to any owner, where the patrons are totally indifferent, and
where the only resource is to awaken a public spirit on the part of the
children. With better school buildings, more ample grounds, and a small
number of patrons favorable to improvement, the foregoing ideas need not
be followed closely. However, they do contain principles and some
details that deserve careful consideration, even in landscape planting
of the highest form. The first step should be the development of local
pride. Something may be accomplished among the parents; but it is a
problem as to what extent that may be done. To the true teacher the
pupils may be counted upon as the mainstay in such an undertaking. To
such a teacher I should say, Do not for a moment believe that the
improvements seen about the school grounds will be all the good that is
wrought. Fifty years from now there will be a few gray-haired
men and women who take more interest in the appearance of their
"front-door-yard," and give their children encouragement in having a
posy bed "all their own," and who extend sympathy and service to the
better appearance of the school grounds, because of your altruism when
you taught district school.
We have some aids that may be helpful to you and to which you are
welcome. Bulletin 160, spoken of at the beginning, specifically treats
of this work, and Bulletin 121, on "Planting of Shrubbery," has been
very popular. We have published a number of articles on children's
gardening, all of which will be sent you free if you request it. If you
have specific problems we shall be glad to have you write and we will
help you all we can by correspondence.
The most efficient help we can give you is through the organizing of
your pupils into Junior Naturalist clubs. We give these clubs especial
instruction in gardening and the improvement of home and school grounds.
Children receive great inspiration from large numbers doing the same
thing, while we can give instruction to ten thousand as easily as to one
child. Many hundreds of teachers and thousands of children find the
study of nature a beam of sunshine in the schoolroom and a great aid in
the English period without being a burden to the teacher.