One of the most important as well as useful plants of Peru, and with

samples of which I provided myself on leaving Peru, for the purpose of

future analysis, is the Coca (_Erythroxylon Coca_), the leaves of which

mixed with chalk or ashes of plants, form so important an article of diet

as well as a masticatory among some Indian races of Peru and Bolivia.

Before I left Europe one of our most celebrated German pharmacologists,

M. Woehler of Goettingen, expressed to me his wish to procure a considerable

quantity of coca leaves, to enable him to analyze more completely than had

as yet been done the chemical constituents of this remarkable plant, and I

therefore made it a duty to take measures for procuring the requisite

supply. Although the wonderful stimulant properties of the coca had for

more than half a century been known to European travellers, the leaves of

the plant, which flourishes best on the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras

of Peru and Bolivia, at an elevation of about 8000 feet, and a temperature

of from 64 deg.4 to 68 deg. Fahr., have hitherto only reached Europe in very

small quantities, having in fact been carried home simply as curiosities.

It was reserved for one of the _Novara_ expedition to bring over as much

as 60 lbs. weight for the purpose of investigation of its properties by

German men of science. Half of this quantity I took to Europe among my own

effects; the remainder was forwarded somewhat later, through the kindness

of two German gentlemen resident in Lima, Messrs. C. Eggert and N.

Linnich.

So many, and in the main correct, accounts[142] have been published by

travellers of the coca plant, its culture, its effect upon the system,

and the marvels that have been achieved by its use, that I may well be

excused from dwelling at length upon the habit which prevails among the

Indians of chewing coca, or on its importance as a chief article of

subsistence for several millions of our fellow-creatures. I may, however,

mention certain instances which came within my own personal knowledge, as

also a few statistical data relating to the annual consumption of coca in

Peru and Bolivia, and the economical importance of this cultivation.

A Scotchman named Campbell, who was settled as a merchant at Tacna in

Bolivia, and with whom I travelled to Europe from Lima, informed me that a

few years before, being engaged upon matters of urgent business, he had

performed in one day a distance of 90 English miles on mule-back, and

throughout that long distance had been accompanied by an Aymara Indian,

who kept up easily with the mule, without other refreshment than a few

grains of roasted maize and coca leaves, which, mingled with undissolved

chalk, he chewed incessantly. On reaching the station where he was to pass

the night, Mr. Campbell, though mounted on an excellent animal, found

himself greatly fatigued; the guide, on the other hand, _after he had

stood on his head for a few minutes_,[143] and had drank a glass of

brandy, set off without further delay on his homeward journey!!

In April, 1859, Mr. Campbell despatched a native from La Paz to Tacna, a

distance of 249 English miles, which the Indian accomplished in four days.

He rested one day at Tacna, and set off the following morning on his

return journey, in the course of which he had to cross a pass 13,000 feet

in height. It would seem that throughout the whole of this immense journey

on foot, he followed the Indian custom of taking no other sustenance than

a little roasted maize and coca leaves, which he carried in a little pouch

at his side, and chewed from time to time.[144]

Like other experienced travellers, Mr. Campbell, who has lived over 14

years in Bolivia, is of opinion that a moderate use of coca exercises no

prejudicial influence upon the general health, but simply tends to make

the Indian races of the higher regions of the Andes more capable of

continued laborious work. Many coca-chewers attain a great age, and Mr.

Campbell knew one such, who had taken part in the insurrection of

Tupac-Amaru in 1781, and at the time of my visit, 1859, was still in full

possession of all his faculties. In short, as in the case of opium and

wine, it would seem that it is only the abuse of coca that is followed by

evil consequences.

The coca is less cultivated in Peru than in Bolivia, and the leaves are

not in such request among the Quichua as among the Aymara Indians.[145]

As the Government of Bolivia draws a very handsome revenue from coca

cultivation, a tax of five reals, about one shilling, being levied on

every _cesto_, or about 25 lbs. English, there is a better opportunity of

getting at the correct amount of the entire production than in Peru, where

the plant is grown free of duty. The coca tax realizes in all in Bolivia

300,000 _pesos_ or dollars (about L75,000), so that the entire annual

product is about 480,000 _cestos_ or 1,200,000 lbs. The _cesto_ is worth

at La Paz from 7 to 9 _pesos_, but when employed in large quantities for

export, it cost about 10 dollars, placed on board ship. Altogether the

coca crop of Bolivia may reasonably be estimated at rather less than

700,000 _cestos_, equal to about 78,000 tons.

The analysis to which the coca leaves I brought home with me were

subjected at Goettingen, was attended by most important results, though the

experiments are far from being completed. It was reserved for one of the

assistants of the chemical laboratory, named Albert Niemann, to discover

in the leaves a peculiar crystallized organic base, to which, following

the usual custom in such cases, the name Cocain has been given.[146]

The lamented death of Dr. Albert Niemann in the flower of his youth, and

in the midst of his promising labours, necessarily interrupted for a time

the investigations into the nature and properties of cocain. M. Woehler,

however, in his capacity of Director of the Chemical Laboratory of the

University, was so good as to assign to another able assistant, Mr. W.

Lossen, the task of taking up the analysis at the point where its gifted

discoverer had left it, when it was found that, when heated in chlorine,

the cocain underwent a singular and astonishing metamorphosis, being in

fact resolved into Benzoic acid and a new organic base, for which M.

Woehler proposes the name of Ecgonin (from [Greek: Echgonos] an off-shoot).

Further researches with the coca leaves lead to the discovery of a second

organic base, which, it would appear, is contained in its primitive form

in the coca, the composition of which will be treated of in a forthcoming

paper by Mr. Lossen. This base is in a liquid form, for which the

provisional name hygrin (from [Greek:hugros], fluid) has been

adopted.[147]

Hitherto the experiments made to determine the physiological properties of

cocain have been less important in their results, as it is only found in

small quantities in the coca leaf, and an adequate quantity can only be

obtained with great trouble and difficulty.[148] Consequently it is as yet

impossible to decide the questions, whether one of these bases is stronger

than the other, as also to which of the two are to be ascribed the

peculiar properties of the plant. Singular enough, the various experiments

with an effusion of the coca leaves had not the least result, while it is

well known that the use of this kind of tea in the Cordilleras wonderfully

stimulates the breathing powers of the traveller, besides satisfying his

appetite.[149] It would also appear that the coca leaves lose part of

their virtue in transit, and that their most intense activity is only

developed in their native regions. If, however, the ultimate results of

the experiments of Mr. Lossen, instituted with as much sagacity as zeal,

should incontestably prove the value and utility of the plant for

pharmaceutical purposes, as well as in all cases where the human strength

is exposed to unwonted strains upon its energies, the means will surely

and easily be found for extracting _on the spot_ the active principles of

coca, as is being at present done by industrious Yankees in Ecuador, with

the Cinchona or China bark.

When the _Novara_ was leaving Batavia, I cherished the hope that our stay

in South America would be sufficiently prolonged to admit of my making an

excursion to the Cinchona forests, so as to enable me to speak

authoritatively and from personal knowledge upon certain questions

discussed at Lembang with Dr. Junghuhn,[150] which had hitherto been left

unsettled or altogether unexamined, and which were of such deep import to

the attempts being made in Java to cultivate the Cinchona. Circumstances,

however, had conspired to render this impracticable. Instead of the entire

expedition, as originally projected, visiting that classic region, it was

reserved to myself, a solitary individual, to tread the scenes, where

Humboldt once collected the first valuable contributions to science, and

even then my time was so limited that my attention had to be confined to

the capital of Peru, and the neighbouring country. Under these

circumstances such a project as a regular scientific excursion deep into

the heart of the Cinchona forests was entirely out of the question. I did

not fail, however, to translate into Spanish and English, the disputed

points which Dr. Junghuhn had requested me to ascertain for him, so that I

might obtain such information upon these interesting questions from such

of the friends I made in Peru or Chile as seemed likely, either in their

own persons or by the opportunities for natural studies that might happen

to characterize their place of residence, to advance our knowledge of the

Cinchona tree and its cultivation. My different efforts to obtain reliable

information on the cultivation of the China bark tree in its mother

country were especially promoted by my having met, while at Lima, with Mr.

Campbell, who, during the many years he has been settled at Tacna, has

paid especial attention to the China bark trade. For the chief export of

this important medicament is in the hands of the Bolivians, and not of the

Peruvians, as the uninitiated might imagine from the name it is usually

known by in commerce, viz. Peruvian bark.[151]

The most important facts which I am here enabled to dwell upon relate to

the correction of a widespread misconception, that owing to the thirst for

plunder and the wilful neglect of the China tree in its own native

regions, the supply of the valuable drug obtained from its bark, the

well-known Countess'[152] or Jesuit bark, which to the practical physician

is of scarcely less importance than the potato to the labouring man, is

daily diminishing. The Calisaya region (i. e. the limits within which the

C. Calisaya, the species that furnishes the most valuable bark, is found

in its finest and most abundant state) extends from about one degree north

of Lake Titicaca, or from 14 deg. 30' to 20 deg. S. In the forests of Cochabamba,

between which place and La Paz is the principal district of the China

tree, the tree is more frequently found than in those running parallel on

either side with La Paz, in which it is usually met with at such a

distance from the capital that it becomes valueless, owing to the cost of

transport, which is as high as 17 dollars per 100 lbs. The more southerly

forests are still quite virgin, and have never re-echoed the blows of the

Cascarilleros' axe. The largest quantity is exported from Tacna through

the port of Arica, only a small portion being smuggled northwards from

Lake Titicaca, for shipment _via_ Port d'Islay. According to statistics,

from 8000 to 10,000 cwt. of bark may be thus exported for any lapse of

time, without the slightest danger of the tree getting exterminated. Since

1845 the exportation of bark from Bolivia has been a Government monopoly,

which has farmed out the privilege to a private company, that used to pay

a certain annual premium based on an export of 4000 cwt. The company paid

the Cascarilleros or other persons who collected the bark, 25 dollars to

30 dollars for every hundredweight of Calisaya delivered in La Paz, the

capital of Bolivia. The enterprise, however, proved only partially

successful, since speculation, avarice and the continual political

troubles and alterations of the Government, have each and all proved sore

enemies to the peaceful development of the industry of the country. Each

new President had only one thought, viz. how to make the largest profit by

seizing on the natural wealth of the country, and only sought to increase

the export of the bark for the sake of the monopoly. In 1850 a native

commercial house in La Paz paid the bark-gatherers 60 pesos for every 100

lbs., besides a duty to Government of 25 pesos additional, at the same

time paying on an estimated export of 7000 cwt. The exorbitant wage thus

granted to the Cascarilleros resulted in an enormous quantity of Calisaya

being brought to La Paz from all parts of Bolivia, In order to preserve

the public tranquillity, and not glut the market, the Bolivian Government

now prohibited entirely the cutting or collecting of bark. Within eighteen

months about 1400 tons of bark were brought in, and this gave the

monopolists a perfect dread lest they should have to declare themselves

bankrupt, and it was indeed only through the intervention of Government

that they escaped. The latter took the entire stock on their own hands,

paid the speculators with Treasury bonds, redeemable within a given number

of years, and made a fresh contract with a native firm, which stipulated

that the price at La Paz should be 65 dollars per 100 lbs., without

further export duty.

As soon as the stock in hand was exhausted, the prohibition against

cutting Calisaya had of course to be rescinded, and in the interim the

most decided steps were taken to check the superfluous, indeed dangerous,

zeal of the Cascarilleros in the collection of the bark.

While I was in Java chemical experiments had begun to be made with the

bark of the young China trees, and from the fact that the valuable

alkaloid was not found in these, it was hastily inferred that the bark of

the trees grown in their adopted country had, owing to the change effected

in climatic and other conditions, been deprived of the principle that made

them most valuable in their native land. But researches made in South

America have satisfied me, that even in the indigenous forests of

Cinchona, the active principle quinine is only found in the bark of older

trees, and that its quantity is perceptibly affected by the age of the

tree, the finest quinine being obtained in largest quantities from trees

upwards of fifty years old. To ignorance of this peculiarity must also be

attributed in all probability the fact that, at the period of the Spanish

rule, the China collectors or hunters (_Cazadores de Quina_) used to fell

annually 800 or 900 young trees of from four to seven years old, to get at

the 110 cwts. of fever-bark, which, intended exclusively for the use of

the royal house, were shipped every year from Paita, and thence round the

Horn to Cadiz.[153]

So, too, with respect to the quantities annually exported at present from

Bolivia and Peru, and used in European stores, there remain serious errors

to correct, prevalent even among scientific circles. According to the

latest estimates (which take cognizance of seven inferior sorts), there

have been exported, between 1830 and 1860, not more than 10,000 tons,

while of Calisaya, the specially valuable red bark (_Cascarilla roja_),

not above 120,000 cwt. have been exported in all during the same period.

While the annual export thus dwindles in dimensions from what had

generally been supposed, there has lately been discovered in large

quantities, in the forests between Tarija, Cochabamba, and La Paz, a

species of Cinchona, whose bark is said to possess very much the same

properties as the Calisaya. The curate of Tarija has offered for sale 3000

cwt. of this valuable bark (called by the Indians Sucupira). The position

of the forests in which this species of Cinchona is found is so favourable

for exportation, that the cost of transport from Tarija to Iquique, the

nearest port, would only amount to from 8 to 10 dollars per quintal.

The departure of the mail steamer from Callao de Lima was fixed for the

afternoon of 12th June, when several of my friends were so kind as to

accompany me on board. In Callao I paid a short visit to H.M.S. _Ganges_,

and then the U.S. frigate _Merrimac_ (destined in less than three years to

acquire a mournful renown in the horrors of civil war, as also

imperishable celebrity as the pioneer of iron navies), one of the finest

and most powerful screw-ships of the North American navy, armed at that

time with 32 cannon, and of 960-horse power. I had had the pleasure of

becoming acquainted with the officers of both ships, partly in Valparaiso,

partly in Lima. On board the _Ganges_ I experienced a not less cordial

and kind reception, and Admiral Baines, as commander-in-chief of the

British fleet in the Pacific, did me the honour of granting me an official

pass to all captains of British ships, setting forth my scientific

pursuits, and recommending me to their particular attention.

On the morning of the 14th June, the good steamer _Valparaiso_, commanded

by that courteous model of a British sailor, Captain Bloomfield, reached

Huanchaco, the principal harbour of Truxillo, which is only six miles

distant, and was once the capital of the northern portion of the empire of

the Incas. The export of silver, wool, and cochineal from this port is

pretty considerable. Here came on board a Scotchman named Blackwood, who

for some years past had been cultivating cochineal in Truxillo, but was

now, as he confessed, unable any longer to compete in its production with

other countries, in consequence of the price of labour being so high, and

the uncertain state of labour-supply. Mr. Blackwood intended proceeding

_via_ California to the East Indies, where he hoped to light upon a more

suitable field for cochineal-growing, the cost of labour there being still

low, and there existing a constantly-increasing demand for that

substance[154].

On the 15th June we anchored in the roads of San Jose de Lambajeque in the

department of Chola. The position of this village is so unsuitable, that

it is only possible to effect a landing by means of what are called

_Balsas_(rafts with sails), consisting of huge thick trunks of trees bound

together. One of these curious contrivances conveyed on shore in safety 76

passengers at once, together with all their miscellaneous effects!

Fifteen miles north of Lambajeque lies the Indian village of Iting

(Repose), with 5000 inhabitants, whose language is totally different from

the Quichua dialect, usually spoken in the province. One Peruvian on his

return from his travels even went so far as to say that the idiom of the

Iting Indians strongly resembled that of the Chinese! In Monsefu, not

quite two miles from Iting, lives an Indian population which speaks

nothing but Spanish, and consequently can neither understand nor be

understood by its neighbours! This singular state of things almost

entitles us to conjecture that the Spanish conquerors have adopted here

the same tactics as those they put in practice in Central America, where

they repeatedly were at the pains to introduce among the subjugated

tribes, colonies of another race frequently hostile to the aborigines, in

order by difference of customs and language to render any united action

against the common enemy almost impossible. I have myself frequently

observed in the Central-American State of San Salvador, that, for

instance, the Tlascaltecas, who speak the language of Montezuma, had been

settled in the midst of foreign races. Such colonizations have almost

invariably been effected for political purposes, and were compulsory,

instead of being undertaken voluntarily.

On 16th June we anchored in the beautiful and sheltered harbour of Payta.

The little town itself has about 4000 inhabitants, who carry on a pretty

brisk trade with the interior and along the coast. The principal article

of export is hides, especially goat-skins, chinchilla fur (_Eriomys

Chinchilla_), cotton, fruit, oil, herb-archel (_Roccella tinctoria_--used

occasionally as a medicine, but more commonly as a dye,--the well-known

litmus, used for chemical test papers, being prepared from it), and straw

hats. Forty-five miles distant from Payta, in a beautiful and fertile

neighbourhood, lies the town of Piura with 10,000 inhabitants, which

carries on an extensive trade in fruit and vegetables along the coast, and

indeed supplies Lima with its excellent produce.

Payta harbour is visited annually by from fifty to sixty whalers, who take

in fresh provisions here, do their repairs, and give their crews a little

repose after long and heavy labours. The climate is very healthy and

exceedingly dry. At the same time there is no lack of good water, which

the Indians bring to the city from the river Chirar, 18 miles distant, in

casks on mule-back. This mode of transport is so cheap, that the erection

of a distilling apparatus in Payta would not pay. The cargo of one mule,

about 12 gallons, would sell for about 2 reals (about 1_s._ 5-1/2_d._).

Ships take in their supplies of water at Tumbez, a little further north.

When I was at Payta, there were some twenty merchant ships in the harbour.

The trade of the place was evidently increasing. This was indicated not

alone by the energy of the inhabitants, but by a general well-to-do air.

Large, round, broad-brimmed straw hats are annually exported to the value

of 400,000 dollars. Of goat-skins, the annual stock is about 1200 cwt.; of

herb-archel from 1500 to 2000 cwt. There are also at Payta some very

remunerative manufactures of castor oil (from the _Ricinus communis_), and

its cognate from the pinon bean (_Jatropha curcas_), both of which are

found in large quantities in the interior. By an iron machine worked by

steam some 85 gallons of the oil are made daily, part of which is used in

the country for lamps and in the preparation of soap; but by far the

largest portion is exported to the United States.

A few weeks before I reached Payta, there had been accidentally found in a

cave among the bare sand-hills which form the naked desolate environs of

the town, a quantity of maize, which was supposed to have formed part of a

stock which had been placed here by the Incas. It was of a smaller kind

than that grown at the present day. The grains, notwithstanding the

centuries they had lain interred, were in very tolerable preservation. All

along the coast nothing was spoken of but this incident, as though some

great treasure had been discovered, whereas it was but some 60 lbs. of

maize that were found. Moreover, the interest felt by the Indians in this

_trouvaille_ had nothing to do with its historic suggestiveness, but

because their readily-inflamed imagination prefigured boundless stores of

maize yet to be lighted upon and made available, without their having to

labour for them!

In the course of the afternoon we left Payta, and next day sighted the

island of La Plata, distant about 10 miles from the mainland. A tradition,

constantly in the mouth of the people, to the effect that the ancient

Incas buried here a large amount of treasure, has led to many formal

expeditions having been dispatched to this island at various times, every

one of which, however, proved abortive. We now began to find the

temperature perceptibly rising; for a few hours it rose from 65 deg. to 76 deg.

Fahr.

At 6 P.M. of the 20th, we reached the Taboga Islands, a group of lovely

islets, about 11 miles from Panama, where are the warehouses and wharves

of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company. Taboga Island, the most important

of the group, is only one mile and a half long by half a mile broad, but

with the adjacent islet of Taboquilla, forms a very convenient

crescent-shaped harbour, which unites to a secure haven a tolerably

healthy climate, so that during the unhealthy season, when the yellow

fever sometimes commits fearful ravages in Panama, many of the inhabitants

resort to this island, which, up to the year 1858, had remained entirely

free of the scourge.

Late in the evening the English and American papers came on board, from

which we got the first intelligence of the march of events at the seat of

war in Italy, as also of another world-wide calamity,--the death of

Alexander von Humboldt. Even here on the shores of the far Pacific, the

intelligence of the greatest naturalist of our age having departed from

among us, made a deep and powerful impression, which not even the tempests

which impended over the political horizon, and threatened to envelope the

entire world, could allay. Although the outbreak of hostilities between

two such powers as France and Austria must inevitably react severely upon

the condition of the inhabitants of North and South America, yet little

was discussed respecting events in Italy; while the obituary notice of

Humboldt was read aloud in the cabin, and many a fellow-traveller

inscribed on a slip of paper for preservation those beautiful words which

the noble and venerable old savant is said to have spoken, when on a

lovely sunny May-day his spirit winged its flight from our planet, whose

physical constitution his mighty mind had more closely investigated and

comprehended than any other mortal of our day. "How gloriously those

sunbeams dart forth; they seem as though inviting the earth to the

heavens!"

Thus it was forbidden to the members of the Expedition to find the great

naturalist yet alive on their return to their common native land! How full

of meaning did those touching words now prove, and how fall of mournful

memories, with which Humboldt concluded his scientific suggestions to the

_Novara_ voyagers, when he prayed to Almighty God, "That His Holy Spirit

would be with this great and splendid undertaking to the honour of the

common Fatherland!" The _Novara_ staff above all must doubly regret the

death of the "Nestor of Science." The warm and active interest he took in

their expedition contributed in no small degree to advance its scientific

efficiency, and if it be the privilege of the _Novara_ to live in the

memory of the scientific world, it will, as the Archduke Ferdinand

Maximilian himself expressed it in a letter to the venerable philosopher,

"redound in its honour to the latest ages, that it was permitted to

associate its name with that of Humboldt, who for three generations of men

has been associated with every triumph that has been achieved in the

domain of science."

On the 21st, at 7 A.M., we anchored in the roads of Panama. Large ships

are obliged to lie to from two to three miles off shore, as the beach is

nothing but "slike," and at ebb-tide presents an immense unsightly

expanse.

The town of Panama (many fish), built on low green hills amid the most

magnificent forms of tropical vegetation, presents when viewed from

seaward a most lovely, enchanting aspect, especially to the traveller

coming from the sterile sandy shores of the west coast of South America.

As soon, however, as he sets foot on the shore, and has entered the

precincts of the city, his first pleasing impressions are rudely

dispelled. The streets are everywhere narrow and filthy, the houses low

and poverty-stricken in appearance; even upon their roofs the luxuriance

of tropical vegetation bursts forth! Moreover the chief square with its

cathedral leaves an impression of decay. Only a few of the houses situate

near the beach, the property of strangers, and a few of the hotels, have

anything of a respectable appearance. The whole population does not exceed

8000 to 9000 inhabitants, of whom about 500 are whites, the rest being

negroes and mestizoes. At the time when the railroad was being made across

the Isthmus, in the construction of which thousands of Irish and Chinese

fell victims to the climate and the severity of the work, the experiment

was made of introducing negroes from Jamaica, whose cosmopolitan nature

asserted itself by their having increased and multiplied even here. At

present there are upwards of 100,000 negroes on and near the Isthmus.

The expense of living in Panama is no longer so exorbitant as it was ten

years ago, at the period of the first emigration to the newly-discovered

gold-fields of California, when there was no railroad, and the journey

across the Isthmus was made partly on mules, partly in small canoes. For

from three to four dollars a day, one gets very fair board and lodging at

the best hotels. The most expensive item is washing, the charge being 2

dollars (8_s._) a dozen!! In a climate where European cleanliness

necessitates frequent change of apparel, this item alone amounts to some

25 dollars to 30 dollars per month for a single person! Accordingly, it is

found to be more economical to fling away several articles of the toilette

as soon as they have been soiled, and purchase a fresh supply, rather than

pay this heavy tax on the purification of the old garments.

The North American Company, which maintains direct communication between

California and New York, has made such excellent arrangements, that the

passengers on their arrival in Panama by the train are conveyed in a small

steamer from the station, which is close to the shore, out to the large

steamer lying in the roads, which is to convey them to California. The

entire time occupied in convoying 700 or 800 passengers with their usually

rather heavy baggage from Colon across the Isthmus, and thence to their

re-embarkation in the steamer upon the West Coast, does not exceed ten

hours. The hotel-keepers of Panama, on the other hand, complain sorely of

this arrangement, for whereas formerly no passenger ever crossed the

Isthmus without spending one dollar at least, hundreds now pass through

without ever setting a foot in the city.

When I was in Panama there existed an "Opposition Line" of steamers, a

genuine American institution, of which we have occasional examples in

Europe, but which is only to be seen in its fall bloom in the United

States. Formerly, the fare for a deck-passage from New York to San

Francisco was 160 dollars (L33 10_s._). The "Opposition Line" lowered the

fare to 35 dollars, and as out of this sum 25 dollars had to be paid to

the railway, there remained only 10 dollars (L2 2_s._) for the cost of

transport and maintenance of passengers on board large handsome steamers

from New York to San Francisco! For the public at large this was

undoubtedly a vast benefit, and in consequence of the unexampled lowness

of fares, an immense number of persons had gone to California during the

last preceding few months. Whereas formerly only adventurers, speculators,

or persons of means, could turn their eyes on the land of gold, a poor but

industrious labouring population now pressed eagerly thither. Of course,

however, it was too good to last:--no enterprise could continue upon such

ruinous principles. It was the war of large capital against small;

whichever could longest stand the incessant drain, remained in possession

of the field. Occasionally, however, a "compromise" is effected between

the two parties, but in that case the public is usually the sufferer,

since in order to make up for past extravagance, the two quondam foes

combine to keep up exorbitant rates.

The salubrity of Panama, though still unhealthy enough during the wet

season (May to September), is undoubtedly better than it ever was in

former years. The doses of quinine pills with which people used to be

presented in society, very much the same way as a pinch of snuff, have

become infrequent, neither is it now the custom to drink sherry or brandy

and water with quinine in it. Indeed, were foreign settlers to abstain

from the practice of frequent meals, which even in more temperate climes

cannot be continued in with impunity, the health of the inhabitants would

benefit greatly. I repeatedly heard it maintained that the use of ice,

which at present can be got in large quantities and at very low rates upon

the whole Isthmus, and forms an ingredient of every beverage, and many

dishes even, has materially improved the hygienic conditions of Panama.

About 360 tons of ice are imported into Panama annually, or about one ton

per diem. The whole quantity is supplied from the North American lakes,

chiefly from Boston, and is sold in gross at 7 dollars 50 cents (about L1

25_s._) per 100 lbs., the retail price being a trifle over a shilling per

pound. In order to avoid a glut which might make ice importation

unremunerative, and endanger the steadiness of the supply, the Government

has kept in its own hands the monopoly of the ice-trade.

By Dr. Lebreton, a French physician long settled in Panama, who, together

with an Austrian gentleman, Dr. Kratochwil from Saaz in Bohemia, placed me

under the deepest obligation for their cordial hospitality, I was

furnished with a variety of most interesting details of the sanitary

statistics of the Isthmus, and some curious and valuable particulars

respecting the poison with which the Indians arm their arrow-tips. In

Panama is published a most ably-edited daily paper in English, the

"_Panama Star and Herald_," conducted by two Americans, Messrs. Power and

Boyd, which so fully and impartially treats of the political, social, and

commercial condition of the Isthmus and the South American Republics, as

makes it indispensable for every one to subscribe to it who takes any

interest in the development of this remarkable country. It is chiefly due

to these two large-minded, far-seeing gentlemen that we possess a

statistical detail of the very important commerce of the Isthmus, as well

as along the west coast of South America. These figures now lie before

me, and give better than anything else a fair and complete estimate of its

present activity, which, it may be remarked _en passant_, has owed nothing

to the natives, but is entirely due to the energy of foreigners.

No fewer than 64 powerful mail steamers, of the united burthen of 96,000

tons, and representing a money value of at least L4,000,000, ply, part on

the Atlantic side (Southampton _via_ St. Thomas, and New York to

Aspinwall), part on the Pacific side to the various harbours on the west

coast of America, and keep up regular communication between Europe and

that series of States, consisting of not less than 11,000,000 human

beings. The value of the products and merchandise annually passing to and

fro across the Isthmus amounts to about L15,000,000, while the amount of

precious metals is not very much less.

The pearl-fishery in the Gulf of Panama has of late years notably fallen

off from its former importance. At present it lags far behind that of the

Persian Gulf, from which there are annually about L300,000 worth brought

up, whereas here, notwithstanding the enormous extent of the

pearl-oyster-banks, the yearly take of pearls does not exceed L24,000.

Indeed the fishery is carried on less for its costly contents than for the

sake of the mother-of-pearl itself, of which some 800 or 900 tons are

shipped annually.

On 23rd June I went by rail from Panama to Aspinwall, on the Atlantic

side. Except on the days when the steamers on either side bring their

fortnightly quota of passengers, the traffic of the line is very small.

When, however, the passenger steamer at either end has disembarked her

living freight, the Isthmus is all alive, and the coffers of the Company

are amply replenished. The number of passengers both ways annually has

been estimated at from 36,000 to 40,000, and the gross receipts of the

Company at from L200,000 to L300,000.[155]

The fare for the somewhat short distance, 47 miles, is high. There is but

one class of carriage, and the charge is L5 5_s._, besides 10 cents

(5_d._) for every pound of baggage above 30 lbs. But it must always be

borne in mind that enormous difficulties had to be overcome in the

construction of the line, and that the cost of maintaining the permanent

way in anything like order is very great, in consequence of the climate

and the rich tropical vegetation. Whoever has struggled through the almost

impenetrable forests of the Isthmus, before the rail passed through it,

and bears in mind the immense physical difficulties of that laborious

operation, would thankfully pay double the sum now charged for performing

within a few hours a journey which often occupied a whole week.

The construction of the Panama Railroad was commenced in 1850, the first

sod being cut on the Atlantic side. On 27th January, 1855, the locomotive

first performed the journey from ocean to ocean. The cost of construction

amounted to about L1,100,000.[156] This capital was speedily subscribed by

the eager speculative Yankees, and, as the result proved, insured from the

very first to the shareholders a handsome constantly-increasing dividend.

The concession enjoyed by the Company from the Government of New Granada

only lasts for twenty years, from the day on which the entire line is

opened; on the expiry of that period the New Granada Government must

either pay down 5,000,000 dollars (the entire cost of construction), or

extend the concession for ten years more. At the expiration of this second

term, the Government may purchase for 4,000,000 dollars, or grant a third

term of equal length, after which they are to be at liberty to purchase it

for 2,000,000 dollars.

The traffic managers of the line, Messrs. Lewine and Dorsay, showed me the

most polite attention. The resident director, Mr. Center, whose office is

in Aspinwall, and to whom I had letters of introduction, invited me by

telegraph to make free use of the line, as nothing would give him greater

pleasure than to become of some service to a scientific traveller. I took

with me fourteen goodly packages, chiefly collections of natural history.

Most of these required great care and attention, some on account of their

fragile texture, others in consequence of being of a perishable nature.

All these were transported with as much care as though they had been

charged the very highest rate of freight. The treatment of scientific

travellers is to some extent a measure of the degree of civilization of a

people. Hence it is that the North American States and the British

colonies are the points of the globe where the efforts of scientific

travellers elicit the heartiest sympathy, where he may count upon the most

friendly reception, and the most cordial co-operation in carrying out the

objects he has in view. And speaking now after ten years of the most

varied experiences of travel, I look back thankfully to the conspicuous

evidences of good-will which I have universally received from all

Americans, from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of the Gulf of

Mexico, and recall with gratitude how every class of the community

bestirred itself to promote and facilitate the scientific researches of a

solitary traveller,--how, more particularly, the press, that great power

of the intellect, lent the utmost assistance of its influential position

to forward my wishes, and how its columns, thanks to the interest its

conductors themselves felt, were always open in the most remote districts

to welcome the stranger. And now, when for a second time I received from

the sons of that same mighty republic the same cordiality of welcome, I

recalled with redoubled vivacity the happiness of those long-vanished but

most pleasant days, as I record this tribute with so much the more

satisfaction, that I felt it was not the individual but his profession

that was thus honoured, as is abundantly proved by the experience of many

another scientific traveller.

The journey across the Isthmus, right through the heart of the primeval

forest, which was decked out in its gayest attire, is one of the most

exciting, soul-stirring scenes that the eye of the lover of nature ever

rested upon. In no part of the world have I seen more luxuriant and

abundant vegetation than is presented by the forests of Central America,

and more especially upon the Isthmus. And, as if to heighten still further

the sense of marvel and enchantment, one traverses this magnificent forest

landscape behind a locomotive running on its iron track. What a contrast!

The wild ravel of creepers and the green feathery branches of the palms

almost penetrate into the waggons, and tell with unmistakeable emphasis

that the traveller is indeed surrounded by all the beauties of Nature in

her tropic garb. Trees of the most varied description and of colossal

dimensions flourish in the foreign garment of a borrowed adornment.

Between each solitary giant of a forest tree, parasites and _Lianae_ spread

their delicate green coils, while many a gigantic stem, enveloped in

thousands of beautiful shoots, or dead trunk choked in the embrace of a

parasitic creeper, attracts the eye as the train speeds past. So quick and

so strong is the process of vegetation here, that every section of this

line has twice in each year to be freed from the encroachments of the

forest-children; nay, were the line to be left unused but for one

twelvemonth, it would be difficult to discover any trace of its existence,

so completely within that time would the whole district become once more a

wilderness!

The physico-geographical conditions of the Isthmus have only latterly been

made the subject of profound and exhaustive study by a German naturalist,

who has published the result of his researches. The justly-dreaded climate

was the main cause of its having been so long left unexamined. To that

keen indefatigable _savant_, Dr. Moritz Wagner, my whilom faithful

travelling companion through Northern and Central America, is due the

praise of having first accurately and analytically investigated the

territory of the Isthmus,--that dam which separates two ocean worlds as it

may be considered from one point of view,--that bridge which unites two

immense continents as it may be regarded from another,--and who, in so

doing, has contributed many new and important facts to our previous stock

of statistics respecting the hypsometrical and geognostic features of the

Isthmus, as well as to the geographical distribution of the forms of

organic life which are found there.

In the course of constructing the railroad, the geological profile of the

country was laid open through a length of 47 miles. This fortunate

circumstance the German naturalist availed himself of as an excellent

opportunity for carrying out his design, but his labours were none the

less beset with difficulties, and only his indomitable perseverance could

have carried him through the tropical intermittent fevers and mental

anxiety, which at one time threatened to prostrate his physical strength,

or even to lay him in his grave. Wagner had been first struck by the very

remarkable evidence of an entire alteration in the form of the hills

between Veragua and Obispo. This change in the vertical configuration, the

decided depression of the Cordilleras, which is most apparent between

Limon Bay (at the mouth of the Chagres river) and the Gulf of Panama, is

just as much an important geological fact for physical geography, and for

solving the important questions of the present and future commerce so

intimately connected with the artificially cutting through of this neck of

land, as the change in the horizontal configuration or the sudden

compression of this part of the world in the north-west of the province of

Choco, or the rugged steepness that characterizes the range of hills which

forms the contour of the coast-line. The geological and botanical

specimens, those most reliable of all data for physical generalization,

with which Wagner illustrates his interesting exposition of the natural

character, the prevailing formations, and the most prominent

representations of the vegetation of the Isthmus, form at present a

valuable part of the collections of natural history in the Museum of

Munich.

The journey across is not made at the speed one would expect on a line

where the locomotive is in charge of a Yankee. It takes four hours to do

the 47-1/2 English miles. The stations are very numerous, often situate in

the heart of the forest, where there are only a few labourers' huts.

Moreover, halts are frequent at spots where there are no passengers

visible, either to take up or set down. One of the most beautiful of the

stations is that at the little village of Paraiso, about nine miles

distant from Panama, which lies in a kettle-shaped glade. At this point

large clearings have been made, and the eye ranges over a rather more

extended landscape, only bounded in fact by the contour of the

neighbouring hills. The only inhabitants are negroes, mulattoes, and

mestizoes, who for the most part are employed as labourers on the line. A

few miles after leaving Paraiso, the train reaches the station of Culebra,

or, as it is more generally called by the inhabitants, "the Summit," the

narrow steep rise of which marks the water-shed between the Rio Grande,

falling into the Pacific, and the Rio Chagres, which debouches into the

Caribbean Sea. This is the highest point of the line. The actual height of

the pass is 287 English feet, but it has been lowered by about 25 feet, so

that Summit station is only 262 feet above the mean level of the ocean.

The most important village along the line is Matachin, a large straggling

village, which, however, seems to be inhabited exclusively by negroes,

mulattoes, and Zamboes. As I have previously remarked, the majority of the

labourers on the line emigrated hither from the West Indies, especially

Jamaica, attracted by the high wages of labour, and after it was

completed, settled along its course in neat, clean, but small cottages.

And whereas the baleful tropical climate decimated every other class of

labourer employed during the construction of the lines, these latter have

flourished here better than any other description of settler. They seem to

be universally healthy and well fed, and their oceans of children, who

impart life to the landscape, attest that the women have not lost their

fertility. They all seemed to be well and were neatly clothed. However,

when I crossed, it happened to be a holiday, and consequently every one

wore his Sunday dress, clean white trowsers, white shirt, and a

narrow-brimmed hat of fine straw.

Near Barbacoa station the eye of the traveller, that has hitherto revelled

in the voluptuous beauties of nature, rests with pleasure on a splendid

trophy of human industry, an iron bridge, 600 feet long, which spans the

River Chagres at this point. It was on one of the Cerros, a little west of

Barbacoa, that Vasco Nunez de Balboa first beheld both the Atlantic and

the Pacific oceans at once, and, regarding his stand-point in the Isthmus

as a mere handful of earth, may have imagined himself a conqueror, whose

glance comprehended both worlds.

The last portion of the line, as we near the Atlantic side, passes over

vast swamps, which rendered the construction of this portion of the road

exceedingly difficult and very expensive. Aspinwall itself moreover, the

terminus of the Inter-oceanic Railway, lies on a small island, two-thirds

of the surface of which is morass, and covered with tropical marsh

vegetation. This station was selected, notwithstanding its very

unwholesome climate, chiefly because the roadstead of Limon Bay furnishes

a safe anchorage in all weathers for vessels of even the largest size.

This small island, only 7000 feet long by 5800 wide, which was first named

from the immense quantity of _Hippomane mancinella_, a tree with a very

powerful poison, that is found on it, and is now called "Isla de

Manzanilla," was formally made over by the New Granada Government to the

American Company at the beginning of the works in the year 1852, and was

used by it for the new city, as also for the erection of warehouses, &c.

Aspinwall, or Colon, as it is sometimes called, numbers at present some

1500 inhabitants, of whom 150 are North Americans and English, the rest

negroes and mulattoes. The little town, with its neat frame-houses and

clean cottages, involuntarily reminds one of the new settlements in the

North American States. Here, besides the residences of the officials, are

the warehouses and workshops of the Company. In the latter about 700

workmen are employed, while four schooners maintain uninterrupted

communication between Aspinwall and New York, for the purpose of providing

for the various wants of the crowded establishment. Even the very

provisions are imported from North America. The resident director, Mr. A.

J. Center, received me with the most hearty welcome, and during my entire

stay continued to display the same kindness and interest, which he

manifested from the moment he received my letter of introduction.

In Aspinwall the climate has within the last few years become more

salubrious than at the period of the first colonization, when "Chagres

fever" acquired a gruesome reputation, and no resident who stayed above

two months in the place escaped the attack of the fever. Even mules and

dogs could not escape the universal malaria. However, to this day a

lengthened residence on this marshy soil is not unattended with danger,

although the miasmatic poison has undoubtedly lost much of its virulence.

The negroes longest resist its dangerous effect, after whom come the

coolies, then the Europeans, while the Chinese are invariably the earliest

attacked.[157]

On 23rd June, about midnight, I left Limon Bay in the steamer _Medway_.

Having been committed to the charge of her captain by the kind attention

of Mr. B. Cowan, the English Consul in Aspinwall, I found myself more

comfortable and better attended to on board this small filthy old tub than

I could possibly have expected. The Company avowedly employ in the

Intercolonial lines the worst and most uncomfortable of their vessels, and

the traveller who has to make any short passage, for instance, among the

West India islands, is exposed to the doubly disagreeable feeling of

paying a very much higher rate of fare, for very inferior accommodation.

The _Medway_ was an old acquaintance of mine in my previous West Indian

rambles, as in former years she performed the mail service between Belize,

Jamaica, Hayti, Porto Rico, St. Thomas, and Havanna, and this opportunity

of renewing my acquaintance with her I hailed with anything but a

sentiment of satisfaction.

Early on the 25th June we ran into the extensive and beautiful bay of

Carthagena, which now-a-days is only accessible on one side, the second

entrance having been destroyed by the Spaniards during their supremacy,

and never reopened. This seaport contains about 11,000 inhabitants, many

churches and monasteries, as also large fortifications, but of trade and

commerce there is next to nothing. In the roads there lay but three small

coasting crafts. For the naturalist, and especially for the zoologist,

Carthagena is on the other hand classic soil.

Our steamer was fairly beleaguered by shoals of small canoes with natives

on board, who offered for sale any quantity of the most various and

beautiful little denizens of the surrounding country. Any naturalist who

should spend a short time here, might, with the assistance of the Indians,

who seem to be both zealous and apt collectors, get together an extensive

and most valuable zoological and botanical collection. Carthagena indeed

presents in particular great advantages for the shipment to Europe alive

of the more interesting animals. These steamers do not take much above a

fortnight hence to England, and if dispatched about May or June, the

animals would sustain but little detriment from the change to a European

climate at that season. Thus on the present voyage of the _Medway_ there

were numbers of animals and chests of plants in full bloom, consigned to

various museums and private collections in England.

On 30th June we anchored in the small but delightful harbour of St.

Thomas, with bright green hills forming a picturesque back-ground,

relieved by the white houses of the inhabitants picturesquely grouped

along their slopes.

St. Thomas had changed little from what I remembered it at my previous

visit in 1855. At the last census it had 15,000 inhabitants, and its trade

is visibly increasing. It is, however, extremely difficult to get at the

statistics of the annual amount of shipping here, as there is no

toll-house, and the Danish Government publishes no official information as

to the general trade. According to a German merchant long resident here,

the number of foreign ships of all nations entering and leaving the port

amounts to 860 annually, of coasters about 3500, while the annual value of

merchandise so transshipped is about 6,000,000 dollars. One very

remarkable trade is that in ice, which reaches the enormous amount of 1000

tons annually, chiefly for distribution among the adjoining islands, by

far the largest proportion of which comes from Boston, where it is worth

20 dollars per ton, and at St. Thomas 80 dollars per ton, or 3-1/2 cents

per lb. One may conceive that the entire ice-trade to the West Indies,

South America, China, the Malay Archipelago, and the East Indies is in the

hands of the keen North Americans, who evince a capacity for making a

genial use of a natural phenomenon, which a less speculative race of men

associate with the idea of cold, discomfort, and stagnation of

intercourse.

M. A. Ruese, a wealthy chemist and zealous naturalist, by whom as by other

German residents I was most kindly received, has acquired much distinction

from his profound acquaintance with the lower animals of the West Indies,

of which he possesses a small but valuable collection, chiefly of the

Fauna of the islands of St. Thomas, Ste. Croix and Trinidad, and was so

exceedingly courteous as to present me with duplicates of several of the

most interesting. M. Krebs, merchant, and M. Kjaer harbour-master, also in

their hours of relaxation gave me much valuable information on kindred

topics, the latter gentleman farther presenting me with specimens from an

excellent collection he had formed of petrifactions.

What, however, afforded me the sincerest satisfaction on the occasion of

my present visit to St. Thomas, was the striking examples of industry,

intelligence, and social comfort of the negro population. Of all nations

among whom this curse of slavery has been implanted, the Danes have best

comprehended how practically to solve the difficult problem of

emancipation. The number of slaves in Danish colonies was at all times

very small, and their manumission consequently more easy. Nevertheless

the mode adopted in getting rid of the evil is deserving of attention and

imitation. The duty of labouring does not cease with the means of

compelling it. Slaves emancipated by the Danish Government may spend the

wages they receive for their labour at their own discretion, and are

permitted to change masters at pleasure, but they cannot quit their former

employer till they have found a fresh one. The rate of wages at St. Thomas

is pretty high, and the black population, who form the largest contingent

of the labouring population, not only finds constant occupation, but is

remarkably well paid besides. The negroes on this island are, however,

very handy and quick, thanks to the constant intercourse with foreign

nations. Many of them speak several languages fluently, and a German

traveller who visits the island for the first time is apt to be not a

little surprised at finding himself addressed in his mother-tongue by a

swarthy son of Africa.

Our departure was fixed for 1st July. The various mail steamers which had

been expected from the different ports of the West Indies and the eastern

coast of Central America, had all arrived. The fine and comfortable but

old and slow steamer _Magdalena_ was to leave for Europe at noon. Suddenly

a sailing vessel came in like a Job's comforter, with the intelligence

that the splendid new steamer _Paramatta_, which was about due with the

mails from England, had on her first voyage gone ashore on the Anegada

shoal near the island of Virgin Gorda, 60 nautical miles from St. Thomas,

and with her 40 passengers, and a valuable cargo, was in need of instant

relief. This intelligence again delayed our departure. It was at first

determined to send off every disposable steamer to the scene of the

disaster, and to detain the _Magdalena_, till full particulars of the

mischance had been obtained, for transmission to the directors in London.

Afterwards it was arranged that the _Magdalena_ should proceed to the spot

where the _Paramatta_ was lying nearly high and dry, to assist if possible

in floating the ship off the reef.

At 6 P.M. accordingly we steamed out of the Bay of St. Thomas. On the

present occasion the _Magdalena_ had 163 passengers on board, the majority

of whom were planters from the various West India islands, bound on a

pleasure trip during the hot season. Not merely the black servants, but

even their white and chocolate-coloured masters, broke out into the most

marvellous English or French jargon, according as they came from Jamaica

and Demerara, from Martinique, Guadaloupe, or Hayti. The presence of a

great number of children, who, so long as they kept free of sea-sickness,

evidently considered the whole of the quarter-deck as especially designed

for them to play on, in which notion they were zealously upheld by their

mothers and their nurses, made the passage anything but agreeable.

Moreover, the impression made by the grown-up passengers was such as to

heighten one's aspirations for a speedy voyage. The intelligence which had

been received from the seat of war in Italy gave rise to much excitement,

and within the first twelve hours had made it apparent that it was vain

to hope for a pleasant voyage. Nothing was heard on every side but

politics, and it may be left to the reader to guess in what tone they

would be discussed, when Frenchmen, heated with visions of _la gloire

militaire_, were the principal spokesmen.

Early the next morning we were near the reef, which had disabled the

largest and finest of the Company's ships, that had just cost L140,000.

The unfortunate ship had struck the reef when running 11 knots an hour,

and now lay on her starboard side on the reef, having careened so far over

that her port paddle-wheel was quite clear of the water. A committee on

the spot having decided that she must be entirely dismantled before even

her bare hull could be got off the reef, it was resolved not to detain the

_Magdalena_, it being thought desirable that she should as speedily as

possible make her way to Southampton, so as to enable the directors at

once to determine what course to adopt, before the sailing of the next

steamer. Our captain was furnished with a general account of the accident,

together with a sketch by the head engineer of the position of the

_Paramatta_, and with these the _Magdalena_ was permitted to take her

departure.

The voyage threatened to be long and tedious, though attempts were made to

enliven the mornings and evenings by music, and an occasional dance on

deck. The former might have been made very agreeable, had not the _chef

d'orchestre_, who was second steward, ventured on playing his own

compositions as often as possible. To please the susceptibilities of the

two nationalities, _God save the Queen_ and _Partant pour la Syrie_ were

regularly called for each night. A more serious cause of alarm was the

fear lest we should have to put into some intermediate port to coal. When

she left St. Thomas the _Magdalena_ had 1200 tons on board, but as,

notwithstanding constant calms and a sea like a mill-pond, she never made

above 190 to 220 miles in the early part of the voyage, at a consumption

of 70 tons per day, there seemed every prospect of our exhausting our

supply. As she consumed her stock, however, she lightened perceptibly,

till she even got up to the for her unusual speed of 280 miles a day. How

different from the same Company's ships _Atrato_ and _La Plata_, which

frequently make 340 miles a day, and in fact average only 13 days on the

passage home, while the average of the _Magdalena_ and her consorts is 18

days!

At last, on 18th July, we sighted the Lizard's. Although barely 200 miles

from our destination, the captain thought it best to put into the nearest

port for a supply of coal, and shortly after noon we anchored in Falmouth

Harbour, where the first intelligence we got was that peace had been

concluded. Singular to say, even this intelligence produced no accession

of harmony between the two great political parties on board. As for

myself, I had kept as much as possible by myself; and now stepping ashore,

I wandered through the narrow dirty streets of Falmouth, which presents

the accurate type of the old-fashioned English provincial town. The

meadows and sloping hills around shone forth in all the fresh verdure of

spring. Even the traveller fresh from the voluptuous loveliness of the

tropics, finds ever new beauties in the manifold variety of nature. The

more the student of Nature walks with her and finds in her his chief

pleasures, the more receptive does his soul become for all that is

marvellous and beautiful, as from day to day they present themselves in

new and unexpected phases.

The same evening the _Magdalena_ resumed her voyage, and about noon on the

19th we passed the renowned "Needles," and in two hours afterwards reached

Southampton. Dire was the confusion on board, each person wishing to have

his own trunk conveyed on shore the first. I found with my voluminous

boxes the most courteous consideration. It sufficed to explain the object

of my travels to have all my luggage passed without examination. For down

to the English Custom House officials, who are not, it must be confessed,

prone to show much tenderness to travellers' baggage, extends that

honourable feeling of respect for science which Englishmen of all grades

seem to entertain. The same evening I reached London.

As the next steamer for Gibraltar was not to leave for eight days, I

immediately started to London, and availed myself of this opportunity to

renew old acquaintance, and make up my leeway as regarded the important

strides and valuable discoveries made in the fields of science during my

long absence from Europe. The warm interest and cordial reception I met

with from such gentlemen as Sir Roderick Murchison, General Sabine, Sir

Charles Lyell, Professor Owen, Dr. Gray, Mr. Henry Reeve, Mr. Crawford,

Mr. John Murray, Mr. Ellis, and many others, was the most gratifying and

conclusive evidence of the interest and high expectations which the

_Novara_ Expedition had excited among scientific circles in England.

On 27th July I embarked on board the P. and O. Company's steamer _Behar_,

Captain Black, _en route_ to Gibraltar, which I reached after a passage of

4-1/2 days, and, what is still more curious, by a singular coincidence, at

the very same moment when the _Novara_, with every stitch of canvas set,

was proudly careering through the famous Straits!! As the noble frigate

shot past our steamer, Captain Black saluted, and was so thoughtfully kind

as to signal the _Novara_ that I was among his passengers. Very soon

after, both ships anchored in the roads of Gibraltar. In the course of my

overland journey from Valparaiso to Gibraltar, I had travelled 8832

nautical miles, and had been but 29 days actually travelling.

I now felt pervaded by a sentiment of profoundest gratitude to a

benevolent fate, which had led me safely and pleasantly through so many

dangers till I rejoined that Expedition with which not alone the best and

happiest remembrances of my life are henceforth associated, but which

opened to me the unspeakably gratifying prospect of being better able to

contribute, by extended knowledge and experience, to the advancement of

science in my native land!

FOOTNOTES:

[120] The fares, first class (including provisions and bedding, but

without wine), are as follows:

Miles Dols. L s. d.

Valparaiso to Callao de Lima 1467 95 or 19 19 0

Callao to Panama 1594 110 " 23 2 0

Aspinwall (E. coast of Isthmus }

of Panama) to St. Thomas, and } 4572 360 " 75 12 0

thence to Southampton }

Total, exclusive of 49 miles of }

rail from Colon to Panama } 7633 565 " 118 13 0

[121] Hitherto, the coal procured at Lota in the south of Chile has been

neglected, in consequence of the freight being so heavy that it is cheaper

to import coals from England and North America.

[122] See "On the Source and Supply of Cubic Saltpetre, or Nitrate of

Soda, and its use in small quantities as a Restorative to Corn-crops, by

Philip Pusey." London, W. Clowes and Sons, 1853.

[123] The proportion as found along the coast is 93 to 95 per cent. of

saltpetre, to 7 to 5 per cent. of earth.

[124] The export, however, is constantly increasing. In 1858 it amounted

to 61,000 tons, in 1859 to 78,000, of which 22,500 tons went to England,

15,200 to France, and the remainder to Germany.

[125] From Arica there are bridle-paths to Potosi, Oruru, Cochabamba, La

Paz, Chuquisaca, and Calamaca, probably the highest inhabited point of the

earth's surface, where a population of 800 souls live at an elevation of

13,800 feet above the level of the sea.

[126] The volcano of Arequipa is 10,500 feet above its base, but 18,000

above sea-level.

[127] "Peru; Sketches of Travel, 1839-42, by J. J. v. Tschudi." St. Gall,

1846: Vol. i. p. 335. Also, "Investigations on the Fauna of Peru." St.

Gall, 1844-46. The author from personal observation speaks as follows of

these singular sand-columns, whirling along before the wind. "Driving

before a strong wind, the _medanos_ speedily overleap all barriers, the

lighter and more easily-propelled preceding the heavier like an advanced

guard. Sometimes they are hurled against each other, when, so soon as they

meet, they are dashed violently together, and break up simultaneously.

Frequently a flat _stretch_ of ground is covered within a few hours by a

row of sand-hills, which within a day or two more resume their level

monotonous appearance. The most experienced guides consequently become

confused as to the way, and it is they who the soonest give way to despair

as they wander blindly about among the sand-hills. The small

mountain-spurs, by which the country is traversed from W. to E., afford

some sort of clue, but these oases are few and far between in the sterile

wilderness around."

[128] The ordinary mode of writing the word "Guano" is erroneous, as

already remarked by Tschudi, as the Quichua language, to which the word

belongs, is deficient in the consonant G, among others. The Spaniards

first converted into a G the strongly aspirated H of the original, while

the last syllable "nu," which so frequently terminates the words adopted

from the Quichua, was changed by them into "no."

[129] Only the immense numbers of sea-fowl, their extraordinary voracity,

and the bounteous provision for supplying them with food, can furnish any

possible explanation of the enormous mass accumulated here, even allowing

for such a lapse of time. Mr. Tschudi, in the course of his travels in

Peru, once kept for several days a live _Sula variegata_, which he was

continually feeding with fish. He carefully collected the excrement, when,

notwithstanding these birds eat much less in captivity than in a state of

nature, it voided in a day from 3 1/2 to 5 oz.! According to other

investigations in natural history, it seems that the pelican eats 20 lbs.

a day of fish.

[130] Beds of guano have also been discovered lately by Captain Ord at the

Kooria-Mooria Islands, on the south coast of Arabia, in 18 deg. N. 56 deg. E., 850

miles E.N.E. of Aden. Here any ship can load this valuable cargo on paying

a duty of L2 per ton to the English Government, which has recently

established a colony at the bay and islands of that name, and has made it

a coaling station. But the African guano is by no means so strong or so

pungent a manure as that found on the rainless coasts of Peru, where

certain peculiarities of climate combine to make it less liable to

diminution of its saline virtues by dissolution or liquefaction.

[131] The day on which Lima was founded by Pizarro was the 6th January,

1534, which according to the Catholic calendar is that dedicated to the

Three Kings of Cologne, whence, in conformity with the religious customs

of the period, the city was named "Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of the

Kings).

[132] I feel it a pleasant duty to express here publicly how much I am

indebted to the representatives of this celebrated firm in the different

ports of South America, and to the head of the house in London, for the

kind and generous manner in which this gentleman endeavoured to facilitate

and advance the objects I had in view.

[133] One of the most distinguished physicians of the capital, Dr.

Archibald Smith, has collected some interesting particulars, with the

dates, respecting the outbreak of these fearful maladies, which we intend

to publish elsewhere.

[134] This institution is also in charge of the Sisters of Charity. There

were only some ten or twelve children in course of education, who,

however, seemed to be in excellent health and well fed. When I expressed

to the lady superintendent my astonishment that the establishment was not

more extensively patronized, she replied, "_Los ninos se crian en la

Calle!_" (The children are here brought up in the streets.)

[135] There are in Lima 46 private lying-in establishments. The mothers

are extremely loth to separate from their children, and if great

difficulty be experienced in getting wet-nurses, this is to be attributed

far more to the love of the mothers for their children than to strict

morality among the mass of the population.

[136] A Peruvian author, Don J. A. Delavalle, gives in one of his works

the following severe, yet faithful, portraiture of the state of letters in

his native country:--"En un pais en el que el cultivo de las letras ni

constituye una profesion, ni crea una posicion social, ni procura lo

necesario--no decimos para lucrar con ella--para conseguir el sustento

para la vida, nos admiraremos de que haya quien escriba en Lima, y

reputaremos como extraordinario el numero de obras que han salido de sus

prensas en 1860, por muy pequeno que este haya sido. Sin proteccion, pues,

y sin estimulo, ni oficial, ni social, ? que se podra esperar de las

letras Peruanas?" (_Translation of the foregoing._) "In a country where

the cultivation of letters is not a profession by itself, where literature

confers no social position, and barely procures the necessaries of

life,--we do not speak of realizing competence and independence,--we

marvel there should be any one in Lima who writes at all, and we consider

little less than extraordinary the number of books which have issued from

its press in 1860, insignificant as the sum total may be. Without

protection, without influence, and without stimulus, official or social,

who can suffer himself to hope for a better future for Peruvian

literature?" (Compare Peru in 1860, in the National Annual Register, by

Alfredo G. Leubel, Lima, 1861.)

[137] Pachacamac, the invisible God, i. e. "he who created the earth out

of nothing."

[138] In Canete, an Indian village of 9000 inhabitants, 60 English miles

from Lurin, there are also numerous Peruvian architectural memorials, as

also an antique temple of idols, which have never been carefully examined.

On my return to Lima, I was shown the mummy of a very young child, which

Don Juan Quiros, deputy from the province of Canete, had brought to the

capital with him from his own home. The little corpse, quite mummified,

lay in a beautiful, neatly-plaited little basket, and was swathed in

layers of fine variegated cloth. On both sides lay toys of various kinds,

attesting not alone the tenderness of the mother for her dead offspring,

but also that a high degree of artistic taste and finish had been

attained.

[139] According to the "Estadistica general de Lima" (1858) of M. Fuentes,

Lima has a population of 94,195, all told; according to the "Anuario

Nacional" of A. Leubel for 1861, only 85,116 souls, who inhabit a surface

of 6523.597 square Varas (Spanish). The entire population of Peru can

hardly exceed 1,900,000, but a reliable census has never yet been made.

[140] Once during my stay in Lima I had an opportunity of conversing with

Don Ramon. He had come up from his country-seat, or rather from the

roulette-table of Chorillos, to the capital, and was courteous enough to

accord me a reception at his house. After passing a couple of sentinels, I

was ushered through a large bare room into a small ill-lighted apartment

on the ground-floor, when I found myself suddenly face to face with the

President of the Peruvian Republic. I was presented by a friend settled in

Lima. The General is a mestizo with a strongly-marked brown Indian visage,

projecting cheek-bones, and an arched nose, wiry grey hair kept close

cropped, and energetic, but withal coarse features. He is so far entitled

to gratitude, that during the few years he has swayed the destinies of the

Republic, he has maintained internal tranquillity. But there still remains

the saddening feeling, borne out by the actual state of matters, that a

territory over which Spanish grandees and viceroys once held sway, is at

present ruled by an Indian half-breed, who can scarcely read and write. In

manners and general appearance, Don Ramon Castilla strongly reminded me of

his dusky confrere, General Rafael Carrera, President of Guatemala, with

whose despotic tendencies he may be said fully to sympathize.

[141] Thus too it is the predominance of the pure Spanish type and the

extent of foreign immigration, which render the future of Chile so

hopeful.

[142] Vide E. Poeppig, Travels in Chile, Peru, and down the Amazon, vol.

ii. p. 248.--Von Tschudi, Sketches of Peruvian Travel, vol. ii. p.

290.--Weddell, Travels in Northern Bolivia in 1853, p. 514.--Von Bibra,

Narcotics and their Influence on Man.--History of the Expedition of M.

Castelnau in the Central Territories of South America. Paris, 1850, vol.

iii. p. 349.--Dr. Paul Montegazza, "Researches into the Hygienic and

Medicinal Properties of Coca. Annali de Medicina, March, 1859."

[143] This custom of the Aymara Indians, not less universal than

extraordinary, of standing on their heads after long and fatiguing

marches, seems to be the result of an instinct which teaches them how best

to mitigate the severe pressure of the blood.

[144] The mail goes four times a month from La Paz to Tacna, and usually

weighs 25 lbs., which the courier carries on his back and delivers within

some five or six days, without other nourishment than that already

specified!

[145] The Aymara Indian rarely uses animal food, as to do so he would

require to kill one of his beloved Llamas. His chief food consists of

roasted _Chuno_, a small bitter species of potato, which flourishes only

on the barren, rugged plateau of the Andes inhabited by the Aymara, where

neither the common potato nor the maize continue to grow; even barley,

which the Spaniards introduced, ceases to thrive. Their only other food is

a species of moss, which grows in the swamps, and is called by the natives

"_Lanta_." Under such alimentary conditions, it is readily intelligible

why the Aymara have a predilection for coca balls (_acullica_), which (as

sailors and others do with us, with tobacco) they keep continually rolling

about in their mouths, and which, as soon as the whole of the juice has

been sucked out, is thrown away and replaced by a fresh "quid." The juice

of the green leaves diluted with oceans of saliva is usually swallowed. An

Indian chews on the average an ounce to an ounce and a half per diem, but

on feast-days double that quantity.

[146] Cocain is precipitated in colourless inodorous prismatic crystals.

It is with difficulty soluble in water, but melts readily in alcohol, and

with still more facility in ether. When dissolved in alcohol, the solution

becomes a strong alkaline reagent, and has a peculiar slightly bitter

taste. When brought in contact with the nerves of the tongue, it possesses

the singular property of deadening sensation after a few seconds have

elapsed, in the part to which it has been applied, which for a time

becomes almost void of feeling. It fuses at a temperature of 208 deg.4 Fahr.,

and in cooling resumes its former prismatic crystalline form. When heated

beyond this temperature, it changes to a reddish hue, and volatilizes with

a strong ammoniacal odour. Only a small portion seems to get liberated by

the destructive process. When heated on a platinum disc, it burns away

with a bright flame, leaving no residuum. Cocain completely neutralizes

acids, although most of the resulting salts seem to crystallize with

difficulty, and to remain for a considerable time in an amorphous state.

The resultant chloride seemed the most readily formed as well as

delicately shaped of the crystals. Cocain exposed in chlorine is followed

by such a development of heat that the former is fused. (Compare "Cocain,

an Organic Base in the Coca," letter of Professor F. Woehler to W.

Haidinger, acting Fellow of the Imperial Academy of Sciences, presented at

the meeting of the Class of Mathematics and Physical Science, 8th March,

1860. See also "On a New Organic Base in the Coca-leaves," Inaugural

dissertation on attaining the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at Goettingen,

by Albert Niemann of Goslar. Printed at the Goettingen Press, 1860.)

[147] According to Woehler, this fluid substance admits of being distilled

even along with water; its odour strongly recalls Trimethylamin; it is a

strong alkaline reagent, but is not bitter to the taste, and forms a white

cloud when acids are poured upon it. Its chloride crystallizes readily,

but is very volatile. With chloride of platina it forms a flocculent

uncrystallized precipitate, which decomposes on the liquid being heated.

With chloride of quicksilver, it assumes a dim milky appearance, which is

caused by the formation of a substance resembling drops of oil. Hygrin is

not poisonous; a few drops given to a rabbit were followed by no

perceptible symptoms.

[148] As, judging by the experiments hitherto made, cocain seems to

consist of two atoms in juxta-position, there is reason to conjecture that

it is destined to be the source of a large number of products of

transformation. It is highly probable, as Woehler has remarked, that cocain

may yet be _artificially_ made by a mixture of hygrin with Benzoic acid,

or rather with one of the substances forming part of the Benzoyle group.

[149] See Von Tschudi _ut supra_, vol. ii. 309.

[150] I append here the most important points on which information is

sought respecting the climatic and other conditions of the various

Cinchona species as cultivated in South America, concerning which Dr.

Junghuhn needed more correct information, and can but express the hope,

that, should curiosity or destiny lead the steps of any one of my more

earnest readers to Peru, he may succeed by his own observation in solving

these questions, my inability to aid more effectively in which has been to

me a source of deep mortification. The learned naturalist of Java

furnished me with the following particulars:--

"What it behoves us especially to ascertain, respecting which Hasskarl has

observed nothing, and Weddell furnishes no accurate information, is

comprised in the following questions:

1. What are the highest and lowest limits of the _Cinchona Calisaya_, or

at all events, what is the altitude of the region in which it most

abounds?

2. What is the unvarying warmth of the soil, as observed at a depth of 5

feet below the surface?

3. On what soil does it grow most abundantly and luxuriantly? Does it

affect rich black mould, in moist forcing soils, or rather dry, stony,

barren soils? Does it grow on steep acclivities, or does it seem to prefer

gentle slopes or level ground? Can specimens of the soil be procured? What

is the description of the rock formation, trachytic, granitic, or gneiss,

or are slate or sandstone the characteristic formations?

4. What are the general meteorological conditions, and what is the annual

amount of rain-fall? For how many and during what months does it rain, and

during what period of the day are the showers heaviest? Does it rain for

months at a time, and for how many, and during what months? Or does it not

rain at all, in which case is its place supplied by regular afternoon

storms? How many days of rain are there in the rainy season of that

particular region of the tropical zone? Are the nights and forenoons, as

in Java, usually clear until noon? Is it known whether observations have

ever been made by the Spanish Creoles as to the amount and duration of the

rain-fall? A correct knowledge of the amount of moisture and rain-fall of

the Calisaya district is of special importance to all engaged in the

cultivation of that plant. Further, frequent observations must be made

with the psychrometer in the morning before sunrise, between nine and ten

o'clock, at the hour of maximum of temperature, and in the evening, in the

forest and in the open ground, that these may afterwards be compared with

mine in Java.

5. Does the Calisaya prefer the deepest shadows of the forest, does it

grow there quite apart from other trees, or is it more frequently found in

the open spaces where it is warmed by the sun's rays, such places being

usually rather clear of trees? Does it grow solitary, or is it found in

groups or clusters, and are its special peculiarities in this respect

observable in every forest? Is it observed to be more numerous towards the

edge of the forest, and does it evince a tendency to extend thence over

the grass, the drift, the plateaux, &c., and what alterations do these

make in its habits?

6. Information is wanted as to the month in which the Calisaya blossoms,

and that in which the fruit ripens, as also what length of time usually

elapses between the first appearance of the buds and the shedding of the

_corolla_, and from the shedding of the _corolla_ to the bursting, i. e.

the complete maturity of the capsules. It would seem that in Java it takes

a much longer time, as also that it blossoms at an entirely different

season from that in which it blossoms in its native regions.

7. Much anxiety is felt as to whether it is possible to ascertain with

accuracy how many years old, as also what are the usual height and the

diameter (at the base of the trunk) of a Calisaya tree, when it first

begins to blossom, and whether these first blossoms are developed into

ripe fruit, with seeds capable of fertilization.

8. How high, how thick, and how old are--

_a._ The youngest and smallest, and

_b._ The largest and oldest,

Calisaya trees, which are now felled for their bark in South America? What

description of bark is the most prized, that from the young and slender,

or that from the larger and older trees? Also whether the bark of a very

young tree, e. g. four years old, contain thus early the active principle,

genuine?

9. As, judging by appearances, it has been rightly assumed that the bark

of any given description of Cinchona is found to be more abundantly

provided with alkaloid, especially quinine, the greater the elevation

above the sea, and becomes impoverished in these respects in proportion as

a lower level and a warmer climate are reached, it is desirable that

special observations should be made for the elucidation of these

particulars.

10. It is desirable information should be got from the China bark

collectors (Cascarilleros) of Peru, as to the natural foes of the Cinchona

plant, especially C. Calisaya, and it appears likewise important to

ascertain whether the Calisaya is there also liable to be injured and

bored into by mites and other noxious insects.

11. It is highly desirable that all the above recommended observations

made respecting Cinchona Calisaya, may also be applied to _all other_

species of Cinchona that may occur in South America, of which those

ranking next in interest and importance to us in Java, and which have been

planted here, are C. _Condaminea, var. lucumaefolia_, _laurifolia_,

_lanceolata_, as also C. _cordifolia_, C. _ovata_, and _var.

erythroderma_.

12. Is the pure red China bark actually obtained from the C. _ovata, var.

erythroderma_ of Weddell, as would appear from an article by Howard in

"the Pharmaceutical Journal for October, 1856?" The leaves of that variety

have the most resemblance to those of the three young trees brought over,

which we now possess in Java, and which I have spoken of as _Cinchona

cordifolia_.

13. The experiments in acclimatization of the above-named species in Java,

especially in Western Java, which, it must be admitted, has a very much

more moist, rainy climate than Peru, and still more so than Southern

Bolivia, where the Calisaya chiefly grows, have already undergone several

phases, and it has successfully struggled with numerous obstacles, some

natural, others the result of failures of the earliest cultivators. The

species named C. _Condaminea, var. lucumaefolia_, has shown itself more

susceptible of being acclimatized than the C. _Calisaya_, and at present

(May, 1858) promises to produce from 50,000 to 70,000 ripe fruit, within a

few weeks, all fit for reproduction. Apparently the climate and other

physical conditions of the locality in Java, where the cultivation has

been carried on, have corresponded with those natural conditions which

enable this plant to grow so abundantly in its native soil of Peru."

[151] The name dates from the time when what is now Bolivia (in the forest

of which the China tree chiefly grows) formed an integral portion of Peru,

and was in fact called Upper Peru, whereas from that which is now called

Peru, hardly any bark is exported, while that found in New Granada and

Ecuador, whence it is exported to Spain under the name of Pitaya, is a

species of very inferior quality for medicinal purposes.

[152] The name, Countess' powder, which was given to the drug owing to its

use by a certain Countess Chinchon (wife of a Peruvian viceroy), was

afterwards altered to Cardinal's or Jesuit's powder, in consequence of the

Procurator-general of the order of Jesus, Cardinal de Lugo, having, during

his passage through France, everywhere made known the virtues of the drug,

and recommended it to the particular attention of Cardinal Mazarin, as the

brethren of the order had begun to drive quite a lucrative trade in South

American China bark, which they had carried on by their missionaries. V.

Humboldt's "_Ansichten der Natur_," third edition, 1849, vol. ii. p. 372.

[153] See Humboldt's Ansichten der Natur. Third edition. 1849. Vol. ii. p.

319.

[154] Senor Emilio Escobar of Lima sent me a small flask of a hitherto

little-known vegetable stuff, which gives very much the same dye as the

cochineal insect, and is found in great abundance throughout Peru. I have

added this bottle of dye, which at all events merits more minute

investigation, to the other collections of the _Novara_ Expedition.

[155] In 1859, there were forwarded, according to official documents:

From From

Aspinwall Panama to

to Panama. Aspinwall. Totals.

Passengers 23,206 16,567 39,773

Bullion 3,146,983 57,097,061 60,244,044

Mail parcels of the U.S. pounds 643,752 184,395 828,147

" " England " 47,060 8,824 55,884

Merchandise tons 17,278 3,802 21,080

Coal. " 7,618 ------ 7,618

Personal baggage pounds 67,698 62,581 130,279

[156] The cost of keeping in repair is not less than L100,000 per annum,

owing to the destroying energies of the atmosphere and of insects, as also

of the rapid growth of vegetation, to keep which under employs not less

than 3000 labourers.

[157] The statistics of mortality among the various races on the Isthmus

for the year 1858 give the following results.

Of the natives, there die annually 1 in 50

" immigrant negroes 1 in 40

" Coolies 1 in 40

" Europeans 1 in 30

" Chinese 1 in 10

[Illustration: The Austrian Eagle]

XXIII.

From Gibraltar to Trieste.

From 7th to 26th August, 1859.

First circumstantial details of the War of 1859.--Alterations in

Gibraltar since our previous visit.--Science and Warfare.--

Voyage through the Mediterranean.--Messina.--The _Novara_ taken

in tow by the War-steamer _Lucia_.--Gravosa.--Ragusa.--Arrival

of H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian at Gravosa.--

Presentation of the Staff.--Banquet on board the screw-corvette

_Dandolo_.--Pola.--Roman Amphitheatre.--Porta Aurea.--Triumphal

return to Trieste.--Retrospect of the achievements and general

scientific results of the Expedition.--Concluding Remarks.

Eighty-two days elapsed between the departure of the _Novara_ from

Valparaiso and her arrival in the harbour of Gibraltar. They had been as

many days of dreadful trial and disaster for our country! While the good

ship was careering along in mid ocean, and in an unusually short space of

time had sailed over 10,600 nautical miles, the fortune of arms had gone

against our House, and we now heard for the first time of the desperate

battles, the heavy losses, the sudden armistice of Villafranca! The

Commodore at once telegraphed to Trieste the news of our arrival, and

asked for further instructions.

Among our friends and acquaintances at Gibraltar many changes and

alterations had taken place. The former Governor, Sir James Ferguson, had

in the interim been replaced by Sir W. Codrington. The Austrian Consul,

the estimable Mr. Longlands Cowell, was dead, and in his stead Mr. Frembly

attended provisionally to the duties of the office.

The heads of the community, the Governor, the staff, Mr. Creswell,

Postmaster-General, Mr. Frembly, &c., paid us marked attention on our

present visit. Singular to say, no one here seemed to be aware of our

having been declared neutral by most of the European powers, thanks to the

far-sighted circumspection of the projector of the voyage, and

consequently some apprehension had been felt lest some warships of the

enemy might have encountered the _Novara_ in American waters. But albeit

of late years we have been pretty well accustomed to see even written

treaties trodden underfoot, yet, in the present instance, the capture of

the _Novara_ had been stringently prohibited to all French cruisers. For

even in the Tuileries the consequences of such an abuse of power had been

well foreseen; it was felt moreover even there, that in our time the most

powerful can no longer dispense with science or disregard its interests,

that any violence offered to her votaries is an outrage upon mankind and

civilization. So great, indeed, was the anxiety felt at Paris to avoid any

possible collision with the _Novara_, that in addition to the existing

declaration of neutrality, special orders were dispatched by the French

Government, and from amid the din of battle and the thunder of artillery,

the word went forth: "The _Novara_ may proceed unmolested, for she is

freighted with scientific treasures, and science is the common benefit of

all nations!"

On 7th of August, a telegraphic dispatch was received in the course of the

morning from the Lord High Admiral, with instructions for the _Novara_ to

proceed under sail to Messina, where a war-steamer would be in waiting to

take us in tow. The same afternoon we weighed anchor on our way up the

Mediterranean.

On 15th August we sighted the northern shores of Sicily, and the same

evening could plainly perceive the brilliant red lights of the newly

erected lighthouse on Cape San Vito, the extreme N.W. point of the island.

Diversified by frequent calms, and but occasionally favoured with gentle

breezes, our progress was necessarily very slow. On the 16th we passed the

island of Ustica, and the following day the Lipari Islands, and at last,

about 7 A.M. of the 18th, we reached the Straits of Messina. A pilot who

came on board informed us that an Austrian war-steamer was lying off

Messina. Orders were now given to fire a few blank shot, to advise her

commander of our arrival in the Straits, after which we resumed our

course. A few hours more and we were in tow of the steamer, which proved

to be the _Lucia_, the same vessel which upwards of two years before had

brought us as far as Messina on our outward voyage. We now received

letters from friends and relatives at home, as also the customary and

inevitable poetical effusion, which some sailor poet had written on "The

Return of the _Novara_."

On the night of the 19th August we were off Cape Santa Maria di Leuca,

which marks the entrance of the Adriatic Gulf, and in the afternoon of the

following day passed Caste Nuovo near Cattaro, and the same night anchored

in the harbour of Gravosa in Dalmatia. The captain of the _Lucia_ had been

dispatched to bring us hither, there to wait further orders.

The following morning, Sunday, 21st August, the naturalists and superior

officers made an excursion to the highly interesting city of Ragusa, only

a few miles distant, which communicates with Gravosa by a beautiful wide

well-kept road. For the first time in 28 months our feet once more trod

our native soil.

Next morning, about nine, the imperial steam yacht _Fantasie_ came into

port, with H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board, accompanied

by the Archduchess. The Lord High Admiral stood on the paddle-box, and

saluted us most heartily, repeatedly waving his cap, to which the crew of

the _Novara_ replied by a shout that made the welkin ring. The

screw-corvette _Dandolo_ shortly after anchored near us.

About noon the Archduke came on board, and inspected the crew and ship,

after which he expressed himself in the most kind terms to the officers of

the ship and the scientific corps of the expedition. The Archduchess

afterwards had a levee, at which the officers and naturalists had the

honour of being presented to her Highness, who addressed to each a few

gracious words of welcome and interest.

In the evening there was an elegant banquet of forty covers, at which the

Archduke presided, his consort also sharing in the festivities, during

which his Highness distinguished the members of the Expedition in

proposing the toast, "The men of the _Novara_, whose names will belong to

Austrian history."

On 23rd August our frigate, accompanied by the _Lucia_ and the

screw-corvette _Dandolo_, sailed for Pola. Shortly before our departure

the Archduke again came on board, and himself brought with him a long list

of promotions. The entire crew were promoted one grade, and all the

midshipmen were made officers.

On the 25th August we passed, during the morning, the light-tower of

Promontore, standing on a solitary rock that rises out of the sea, hardly

a cable's length from the shore, and at 11 reached Pola, the chief naval

arsenal of Austria. Here we availed ourselves of the stoppage to visit

some of the classical monuments of Pola.

Few cities can present better-preserved or more extensive mementoes of

Roman architecture than this, the ancient _Pietas Julia_, so named because

shortly after its destruction by Julius Caesar, it was rebuilt at the

instance of Julia, the daughter of Augustus. The majestic amphitheatre, of

elliptical form, rises on the slope of the hills, so that to remedy the

inequality of the ground the portion next the sea is held up by a

succession of buttresses. The dazzling white of the stone does not present

any traces by which one would guess its age. This relic of antiquity is in

far better preservation than the Colosseum of Rome, or the Amphitheatre of

Verona, and would have been far more perfect had it not been used as a

stone-quarry during the days of Venetian supremacy, when entire ship-loads

of this brilliant white stone were transported to Venice, there to be used

as building material.

Near the amphitheatre, on the side next the city, the stranger is struck

by another beautiful edifice, the _Porta Aurea_ (golden gate), a

monumental structure in the Corinthian style, which, according to one of

the inscriptions, was erected by his widow, Salvia, at her own expense, in

honour of Lucius Sergius Lepidus, tribune. For harmony of proportion,

richness and elegance of decoration, and perfect preservation, it may be

cited as one of the best existing specimens of Roman architecture. A

temple to Augustus and another to Diana also attract the astonished gaze

of the artist and antiquary, while many another object of classical

interest lies prostrate on the earth for want of means, or perhaps, more

probably, through indifference. It is highly probable that, with the

rapid development of the town, some interest will also be taken in

preserving its antiquities.

The importance of this spacious, easily accessible, secure, and

well-fortified harbour, induced the Austrian Government during the last

few years to commence public works on a large scale, which was

munificently projected and fully carried out, and have resulted in opening

for Pola a prospect of future importance second to none on the Adriatic,

making it the Portsmouth of the Austrian Empire.

In the evening we again set sail, and about 11 A.M. of the 26th escorted

by a squadron of above a dozen ships of war, in two columns, the one led

by H.I.H. the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the other by our Commodore,

we neared the imposing roadstead of Trieste. As the _Novara_ passed

beneath the walls of the splendid chateau of Miramar, the residence of the

Archduke, a guard of artillery saluted the home-returning wanderer, and

almost immediately afterwards the cannon of the citadel of Trieste

thundered forth their salute.

A Lloyd's steamer, having on board the principal officials of the city, as

also a few friends, was now seen wending its way towards us with a band of

music on board, and fell into the procession. The latter made its way,

enveloped in clouds of smoke, to the picturesquely-situated city, as far

as the Bay of Muggia, where each ship let go her anchor in her appointed

position, and--THE VOYAGE WAS OVER.

* * * * *

On the transcriber of the foregoing literary detail of the incidents of

the voyage of the _Novara_ still devolves the task of presenting a brief

summary of the chief objects aimed at, and the actual scientific results

attained by the Imperial Expedition, so as to moderate the exaggerated

expectations of one set of readers, and to rectify the hasty, depreciatory

judgment of others, by stating obvious and convincing facts.

He feels, above all, compelled to examine the question, which not alone

criticism but the entire educated world will address with reference to an

undertaking begun under such auspices and of such universal interest,

"What are the actual results, and what those to be anticipated from the

_Novara_ Expedition? How did its members respond to the efforts made to

provide them with every possible appliance that munificence could supply?"

In order aright to answer this query, whether the first Austrian

Expedition round the globe has really answered the expectations formed of

it, it is necessary to bear in mind that its first and foremost object was

the instruction on an adequate scale of the officers and midshipmen of the

Imperial navy, and that scientific investigation was always regarded as of

secondary importance to that chief object.

The descriptive portion of the voyage of the _Novara_ must be considered

simply as the precursor of a series of scientific publications which,

thanks to Imperial munificence, will be published at the expense

of the State. The nautico-physical portion will include the

astronomico-geodetical, magnetic, and meteorological observations made

throughout the voyage, and will appear under the auspices of the

Imperial hydrographic Institution at Trieste.

The abundant materials collected in the departments of natural history,

statistics, and commercial policy, will be prepared by the various

gentlemen who accompanied the Expedition, and comprise as many sections as

there were scientific branches represented on board ship during the

voyage. These publications will embrace, in a collected form, the

observations, investigations, and results obtained in the course of the

entire campaign, relating to Geology, Zoology, Botany, Ethnography and

Anthropology, Medicine, Statistics, and Trade.

And while these various works can only after their publication admit of a

just opinion being formed as to what has been achieved in this respect by

the Expedition, the numerous and valuable collections of objects of

natural history already give an idea of the activity and research of each

member of the scientific staff in the course of the voyage.

The zoological collection comprises above 26,000 specimens, partly

collected by the two zoologists themselves, partly presented or purchased;

they consist of 320 mammalia, 1500 birds, 950 amphibiae, 2000 fish, 6550

conchyliae, 13,000 insects, 950 crustacea, 500 molluscs, 60 skeletons, 50

skulls, 120 nests, and 150 eggs.

The botanical portion embraces several very comprehensive and valuable

_herbaria_ and collections of seeds (in selecting the latter the

capabilities of the various portions of the Empire were carefully borne

in mind, with reference to the power of propagating the plant), besides a

large quantity of fruits and flowers of tropical plants, preserved in

acetic acid or alcohol, as also Indian and Chinese drugs, and specimens of

ornamental and useful woods.

The mineralogical, petrographical, and palaeontological collections consist

of several thousand specimens of mineralogy and petrifactions, part

collected by the geologist himself, part presented by scientific

Institutes, or private donors, or purchased.

The ethnographic collection embraces 376 objects, such as weapons of the

most diverse form, house utensils and implements of labour, ornaments,

amulets, carvings, idols, headgears, masks, pieces of clothing, models,

textile fabrics, manufactures in bark, musical instruments, Cingalese

manuscripts, as also fragments of palm-leaves, bamboo-reeds, and bark, all

variously transcribed. Some of these various objects are the more

interesting, as furnishing, so to speak, the last proofs of the aboriginal

skill which, in proportion to the increasing intercourse of the savage

tribes with European civilization, is rapidly diminishing, and in all the

principal colonies may be considered as already extinguished.

The anthropological collection consists of 100 skulls of various races of

men, and includes a complete Bushman-skeleton, besides a great variety of

interesting physiological and pathologico-anatomical preparations.

But it is not merely in its general, nautical, scientific, and

politico-economical features that the voyage of the _Novara_ has reacted

in a suggestive and instructing manner upon those who were privileged to

belong to the Expedition. It has widened the horizon of political

knowledge, presented the opportunity of instituting interesting

comparisons between the conditions of the various countries visited, and

has furnished many an instructive insight into the transmuting process,

which the possession of civil and religious liberty effects upon the

material welfare and intellectual energy of every race and land, from pole

to pole. And although mankind is subjected to the powerful influences of

climate, nourishment, soil, and natural phenomena in general, yet it is

not less certain that by freely developing the physical and intellectual

powers, those influences may be materially limited in extent of operation,

and modified in practice; so that, while we see a people inhabiting a

country, where Nature has lavished her utmost treasures of fertility,

beauty, and loveliness, languishing spiritually and physically under the

oppression of a despotic power, and the land itself hastening to

impoverishment and decay, we perceive on the other hand that another, far

less favourably situated, has been able under free institutions to become

by its own unaided energy the marvel of all nations, colonizing every

region of the earth, and extending its commercial and political importance

over the entire universe.

What a melancholy picture of stagnation and decay is presented by the

Spanish and Portuguese possessions in Asia, Africa, and the West Indies,

by the Slave-empire of Brazil, and the Hispano-American Republics, with

their mestizo dictators, as compared with the mighty development and

glorious promise of the British colonies in Asia, Africa, America, and

Australia, governed as they are by constitutional laws, and enjoying full

civil and religious rights! Here the energy of free self-governing men,

aided by a keen spirit of enterprise and investigation, has obtained a

victory over all impediments of a primeval nature, and not alone opened to

European civilization new channels for the extension of commerce and

industry, but also accomplished important social and political reforms,

for which many a civilized state in old Europe is still sighing in vain!

And to the German who has circumnavigated the globe, the consideration of

these lofty themes is mingled with a glow of pride and satisfaction, in

reflecting that it is a kindred Anglo-Saxon race, to whom apparently has

been assigned the glorious mission of diffusing a new life over the earth,

of carrying the light of Christian civilization, of political liberty, and

spiritual culture, to the most primitive tribes in the furthest regions of

the world, and of heralding, amid the ruins of slavery and despotism, the

day-spring of a lasting era of Freedom, Peace, and Prosperity!

THE END.

VOL. II.

APPENDIX A.

A VOCABULARY

(ARRANGED UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)

OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE NATIVES OF THE NICOBAR ARCHIPELAGO.[158]

Name of object in | Dialect used in | Dialect used in | Corresponding words

English. | Kar Nicobar | the Central Group, | used by the Malay

| (called PUH by | consisting of the | inhabitants of Pulo

| the natives). | islands of Nangkauri, | Penang, 5 deg. 25' N.,

| The most northerly | Kamorta, Pulo Milu, | 100 deg. 21' E.

| island, 9 deg. 10' N., | Kondul, and Lesser |

| 93 deg. 36' E. | Nicobar. |

| | |

| | |

God | ---- | ---- | ----

evil spirit | ---- | eewee | hontu

man | kigonje | bahju | orang

people | tarik | ---- | ----

woman | kigana | angana | poorampuan

old woman | ---- | angana-oomiaha | ----

boy | luenda | kanioom | booda-kitschi

lad | marengla | iluh | ----

young girl | nia-kookana | kanioom-angana | booda-poorampuan

child | nia | poa | ana-kitschi

father | jong | tschia | bapa

my father | jong-tioo | ---- | ----

mother | kamiojan | tschia-angana | ma, mak

old man | jong-nia | angonje | chaudau

old woman, feeble | ---- | koomhoois | chaudan-poorampooan

woman | | |

son | kooan | goan or iluh | ana-chaudan

daughter | kooan | kanioom-angana | ana-pooram-pooan

brother | kanana | tschao-angana | kaka

head | kooi | goeh | kapala

hair | kooia | jogh | ramut

face | gua | matschaka | mooka

forehead | mal | lal | dai

ear | nang | neng | talenga

earrings worn by | | |

natives | nang | itiei | --

eye | mat | oal-mat | matta

eyebrows | -- | ok-mat | --

nose | elme | moah | idong

nostrils | -- | ol-moah | lo-bang-idong

chin | -- | enkoin | dagoo

cheek | -- | tapoah | pipi

breast | -- | alendaja | dada

throat, larynx | -- | ungnoka | kronkougan

calf of the leg | -- | kanmoana | jantong-bootis

mouth | minu | manoing | mulot

tongue | litag | kaletag | lida

tooth | kanap | kanap | jijee

beard | main-kooa | inhoing | boolo-bao

neck | likun | unlongha | tinko

arm | kel | koal | langan

hand | koontee | oktai | tangan

palm of the hand | -- | oal-tai | --

finger | heng | kani-tai | charee

nail | kiuso | kaischua | kookoo

body or trunk | alaha | okaha | badan

belly | aik | wuiang | baroot

navel | -- | fon | boosat

thigh | kaldran | boolo | paha

foot | eldran | lah | tapa-kaki

toes | kundran | kanech-lah _or_ | daloognoo-kaki

| | ok lah |

bone | tangae | ung-ejing | toolang

skin | -- | ihe | kooleet

knee | -- | kohanoang | lutot

heart | fanieoola | kioyen | hangat

blood | maham | wooah | dara

village | panam | mattai | kampong

chief | mah | oomiah-mattai | capitan, capitan-kampong

warrior | hol | -- | toomoh

friend | moowee | jol | bai, bania-bai

friendship | holdra | -- | --

house, hut | patee | njee | rooma

kettle | tzitoom | poonhagua | balanga, panel

arrow | alindreng | bel | ana-pana

bow | lindreng | donna | pana

axe, hatchet | hanyeng | enloin | kapa

flint | -- | hindel | sanapang

cannon | -- | hin-wau | mariam

shot | -- | hadeel | pasang-boodeel

knife | sooreeta | kahanap | pisoh

canoe, or boat | ap | deua | sampan

rudder | -- | duende-dol-deuea | --

shoe | kundroka | zapatos | kasut, supatu

| | (corruption of |

| | Portuguese) |

bread | peko | puang | roti

| | (Portuguese, pan) |

pipe, whistle | ripa | tanop | hundchue

to smoke | -- | top-oomhoi | asap

tobacco | tobacco | oomhoi | tumbako

bamboo tobacco-box | oorang | -- | --

heaven | halyang | oal, galahaja | langeet

sun | tawuo | heng | mataharee

moon | chingat | kahae | boolan

full-moon | soho | -- | --

star | tanoosamat | shokmaleicha | bintang

day | tahei | heng | tsara

night | atam | hatam | malam

darkness | sangoola | doochool | bania-galap

morning | haarei | hagee | pagee

day after to-morrow | -- | chayeslang | hiso-pagee-pagee

evening | harap | ladiaya | patang

summer | talak | koi-kapa | poolan-nam

(i. e. the dry or | | (N.E. monsoon) |

fine season) | | |

winter | koomra | sohong | barat

(i. e. the rainy | | (S.W. monsoon) |

season) | | |

wind | koofott | hash | angeen

lightning | nieinaka | mait | kilat

thunder | koonroka | komtoogna | gooroh

rain | koomra | ama | oosan

clouds | talool | galahaya | awan

east | -- | hash-fooly | teemor

west | -- | hash-sohang | barat

south | -- | hash-lahhna | slatan

north | -- | hash-kapa | ootara

fire | tamoia | hioye | apee

to kindle a fire | | |

with bamboo | kiseit | -- | --

water | neak | dak | ajair

salt-water | -- | kamaleh | aja-masseen

sand | toomlat | peeet | pasoi

earth, land | panamm | oal-mattai | kampong

sea | maee | oal-kamaleh | aja-masseen

flood-tide | -- | hayjaoo | ajair-bah

ebb | -- | tchoh | sooroot

river | tit-mak | hiajarak | soongway

valley | -- | alhoda | lemba

hill | yogle | kohinjuan | boojett (boo-keett)

mountain, forest | koochionn | -- | boojett-bassa

island | panam, poolgna | poolgna, mattai | poolo

stone, rock | chong | mangah | batoo

brass | mas | kalahaee | tamaga

iron | wert | kadao | bacee, (bucee)

tree | kaha-chionn | koy-unjeeha | atas-kayoo

wood | chionn | oomnoeet | kayoo

leaf | droee-chionn | da-unjeeha | daaeen-kayoo

bark | ook-chionn | ok-unjeeha | coolie-kayor

grass | kaee-op | oobjooab | roombot

human flesh | alaha | -- | --

flesh | kirinee | okaooha | koolett

pork | naoon | -- | --

parrot | sakaha | katok | buron-bajan nori, kastooree

maina (bird | kachalao | sichooa | buron-tionn

known as | | |

_Graculus | | |

Indicus_) | | |

cocoa-palm | kahataooka | oocejaoo | nionn

green cocoa-nut | taooka | njaoo | nionn-mooda

ripe cocoa-nut | toowooayka | gnoatt | massa

banana | tanioonga | hiboo | pisang

sugar-cane | lamooa | -- | tooboo

yam | toltatchiong | -- | koontang oobee-boonggala

anana | -- | choodoo | avanas

_Carica-papaya_ | popay | popay | papaya

pandanus | -- | larohm | --

palm-wine | -- | doagh | tooak

(toddy) | | |

pig | -- | not | babi

ape | ointchi | dooaeen-kaeen | grah

dog | ahm | ahm | autching

cock | hayam | kamooe-koep | ajam-tchantan

hen | kooan-hayam | {kon-kamooe } | ajam-booteena

| | {tschi-kamooe} |

rat | komet | -- | tikus

cat | koomeao | -- | kootching

serpent, snake | petsch | paeetya, toolan | oolah

bird | tschi-aitchou | sitchua | booron

egg (generally) | ooha | hooeeja | toolo

hen's egg | -- | hooeeja-kamooe | tulo-ajam

dove | makooka | moomooh | pregam-moorpati

fish | kah | gah | ikan

paper | -- | laeeberi | koortas

lead-pencil | -- | anet-laeeberi | halam-teemah

key | -- | tenooan | anak-kuntchi

chain | -- | malao | rantik

white | teso | tenjeea | pootay

black | turing | oeel | itam

black coat | -- | loaim-oeel | --

red | sakalatt | ak | mayra

blue | turing | tchoongoa | kalaboo

dark-blue | turing | -- | --

light-blue | tatooka | -- | --

yellow | tangao | laaom | koonceng

green | faiall | tchoongoa | itcho

large | marola | kadoo | loas

small | keejilong | oompaeetche | kitchee

strong | takale-alah | koang | prat

old | mah | boomooashe oomiaha | tooa

young | neeay | eelooh | mooda

good | talack | lapow | bagooce

bad | atlack | hadlapa | tabaee

pretty | talacka-kooa | lapoa | baee

very beautiful | -- | ilote-lapoa | bania-baee

ugly | atlacka-kooa | jooh | hang

living | atkappa | ahn | deeaa

dead | koopa | kapa | matti

cold | leejeet | kaay | sitchoo

warm | wooang, or wayee-low | keeojan | hang-at

I | teeooa | teeooa | saja

thou | mough | mooayh | aug

he | kna | ahn | deea

we | -- | teeoe | keeta, kami

ye or you | -- | eefoe | augkaoo

they | -- | efoe-bajoo-oomtohm | dia-orang, or marikaeetoo

this | eenay | neeae or neena | seenee, eenee

that | oomoo | anaay | seetoo

all | rokayra | oomtohm | samooaa

much | maronga | ootohatche | bania, baniak

who? | akeea? | tchee? | sapaee? (seeappa)

who is he? | -- | tchick-ahn? | --

near | raayta | meayhoa | dakatt

distant | -- | hoee | tchao

very far | -- | hoee-kah | --

to-day | tahaee | lenheng | arynee, haree

yesterday | wahay | mandioj | koomareen, klamareen

to-morrow | hoorayeek | hakayee | heeso (bisok)

yes | hoan | aon | ija

no | drahawa | ooat | tida

one | hang | hayang | satoo

two | anatt | ah | dooa

three | looay | loeh | teega

four | foen | fooan | oompatt

five | tanayee | tanayee | leema

six | tafool | tafooel | njam

seven | sat | ishiatt | tootcho

eight | haware | oenfoan | lapann

nine | matiootare | hayang-hata | sambilan

ten | som | som | siboolo

eleven | kaook-seeen | som-hayang | sebelass

twelve | ah-sien | som-ah | dooabelass

thirteen | looay-sien | som-loay | teejabelass

twenty | kaook-matiama | heng-oomtchoma | dua-poolow

twenty-one | kaook-matiama-heng | heng-oomtchoma-heang | dua-poolow-satoo

twenty-two | kaook-matiama-anatt | heng-oomtchoma-ah | dua-poolow-dua

thirty | looay-kanyoo | heng-oomtchoma-toktay | tiga-poolow

forty | foen-kanyoo | ahm-oomtchoma | ampatt-poolow

fifty | tanayee-kanyoo | ahm-oomtchoma-toktay | leema-poolow

sixty | tafool-kanyoo | looay-oomtchoma | njam-poolow

hundred | heng-ohn | som-oomtchoma | saratooce

thousand | som-ohn | -- | sirryboo

to eat | nia | naok | makan

one who eats | -- | oog-naok | --

to drink | koen | taoop | minoong

one who drinks | -- | oog-taoop | --

to run | kayann | deeann | laree

to dance | kueliam | kataoga | maaen, murari

to go | keerangary | tchoo | bigee

to grow slowly | att-kayan | -- | --

to sing | tingocka | aekasha | magnanee

to sleep | loom | eetayak | teedow

to speak | roa | olliowla | sakapp

to see | mooak | hadah, oog-hadah | tengo

to love | hanganlon | soojonghien | bania-kesseeen

to kill | sap | oorree | boton, boonoh

to cut one's self | -- | ottah | --

to sit | ratt | katoe | doodo

to sit down | -- | booja | --

to stand | talann | ocksheeaga | badyree

to come | jeehee | kaaytery | maree

to yawn | -- | hengap | moongwap

to laugh | -- | itee | toortawa

to weep | -- | teeoom | moonangis

native stringed | | |

instrument | | |

(_see_ p. 122) | -- | dennang | --

_areca_-nut | tissah | heejah | pinang

coral chalk | soonam | shonn | kapoor

betel-leaf | koorania | hakayee, aray | siree

tortoise-shell | kap | ---- | koolet-kara

fly | inlooayee | jooay | lapatt

mosquito | moosoka | mihoja | njamo

feather or pencil | kanuitch | anet-layeebery | kalam

wing | ---- | danowen | sajap

name | minanee | lermay | namaa

what is your name? | ---- | kin-lermay | apa-namaa

weapon | hinwott | hindell | boodeel

cow-pox | mallock | ---- | tcha-tchar

white man | isohokooa | bajoo-tatenn-hamatt | orang-bootay

a Malay or | | |

yellow man | ---- | kolog-hamatt | orang-mayra

black man | ---- | taoln-hamatt | orang-itam

voyage or journey | ---- | johatayha | blajarr

doctor | manlooena | manlooena | bornow

honey | ---- | ---- | lapaa

flute (_see_ | | |

p. 122) | ---- | hinhell | bangsee

APPENDIX B.

VOCABULARY

(UPON GALATIN'S SYSTEM)

OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES OF PUYNIPET ISLAND (CAROLINE

ARCHIPELAGO) AND SIKAYANA, OR STEWART'S ISLAND.