One day when the beach seemed much better than usual, the captain and

the ship’s surgeon ventured ashore. The purpose of the captain was

probably to visit the shippers with the object of drumming up trade, as

captains are obliged to do on the coast. For this purpose he makes a

very friendly call on each trader, listens to his graphaphone, and even

praises it. He was brave to risk the surf, but he took the doctor. The

captain afterwards narrated the adventure of their landing to a small but

enthusiastic audience. He said that after waiting outside the surf half

an hour, the headman suddenly gave the order, and in a moment they were

in the breakers, riding on the top of one of them, and speeding towards

the shore at the rate of “seventy miles an hour,” which calculation was

merely his sensation expressed in terms of linear measure. The captain

was in the bow of the boat well braced and cushioned. But when the boat

struck the beach with the force of a railway collision, the doctor was

thrown violently over two thwarts into the captain’s bosom, whom he

clasped about the neck with a steel-like grip. The next moment another

breaker picked the boat up and hurled it upon the beach, throwing both

captain and doctor to a perfectly safe distance where they sprawled upon

the sand. The doctor, still hugging the captain’s neck, and very much

frightened, exclaimed: “O Captain, dear Captain, is there anybody killed

but you and me?”

But now it is evening, at the close of a bad day. No white man has

ventured ashore these ten days. But the Kruboys have gone, and there on

the beach is a boat making a last attempt to come off. The sea has been

getting worse all day, and it is now like a boiling caldron. They have

been there for hours, and have tried again and again to get off, but have

failed, though they have no cargo, and they are the best crew and have

the best headman of all. Several times they have been thrown back on the

beach, and once the boat was capsized when nearly through the breakers;

now they are making a last effort.

They stand around the boat, their weight against it, alert, and waiting

in eager attention for the word of command. A shout from the headman, and

in a moment they have pushed the big boat out into the water, have leaped

into it, grasped the paddles, and are pulling like mad. The first breaker

strikes the boat a blow that staggers it: the spirits must have been very

angry. They are through it; but the boat is nearly half full of water

and is not straight. The headman throws himself upon the oar, but alas!

with such force that the becket attaching it to the stern is wrenched

off. They are now at the mercy of the next breaker, a fearful one, which

sweeps them ashore with violence, whirling the boat round, and then

rolling it over and over upon the beach. As the water recedes we see them

lying scattered at random upon the sand. They get up slowly as if half

dazed; and one of them lies unconscious as the next wave washes over him,

matting his hair with the wet sand. And there lies the brave headman

badly bruised, the flesh torn from his leg, exposing the bone from the

knee down. But one poor boy has fought his last fight with the wild sea.

Many fights he has won, but the spirits have beaten him this time. “Oh,

boys,” he says, “I’m hurt. I can’t get up. I can’t even move. I’m afraid

my back is broken.”

So it was indeed: his back was broken. Late in the night he died, the

other boys sobbing like children as they stood around him. Next day

they buried him; and that evening they got off to the ship. As they

approached, the wind wafted to us the sound of a native dirge, weird and

plaintive, which they were chanting for their dead brother.

I feel bound to tell the sequel of this incident. The next day the sea

was so bad that it seemed useless and foolish to attempt to land. The

boys presented themselves in a body before a certain one of the officers

and said: “Mastah, them sea he be bad too much. We no be fit for land

cargo. S’pose we try, we go loss all cargo, and plenty man’s life. So

please excuse to-day, Mastah; for we think to-morrow go be fine.”

The answer they received was a volley of profanity and curses. “Just

because one of them was killed they all turn cowards,” said one.

“Always thinking of themselves!” said another. With many such shrewd

observations, and sundry moral exhortations to bravery, the boats were

lowered and they were ordered into them.

But on these same steamers there are brave men and kind-hearted. On this

particular morning the purser boldly protested. “If they are cowards,”

said he, “what are we? For notwithstanding the demands of business, not

one of us has ventured ashore for many days. I’m no coward myself,” he

continued, “but I confess that those boys put my bravery to shame. They

are the bravest boys in the world. Neither do I believe that they are

bound to risk their lives in such a sea as this for a shilling a day.”

While he was speaking some one shouted: “There goes the first boat.”

We ran to the side just in time to see the boat borne down by the first

breaker, whirled around and capsized, the boys struggling for their

lives, not only with a furious sea, but with heavy boxes and casks and

the boat itself, all tossed to and fro in the surging waters. They

escaped without serious injury; but no white man could have escaped.

About the same time, a few miles up the coast, a steamer had one of its

strong surf-boats flung upon the beach with such violence that it was

broken in two across the middle. Another steamer had two boys killed.

One day our boys went ashore early in the morning, leaving the ship

at half-past five. They were expecting to make the first trip before

breakfast, as usual, and therefore had nothing to eat before starting.

They had landed the cargo safely at the trading-house; but the sea was

so bad that they could not get off to the ship all that day. They made

several unsuccessful attempts, and it was almost night when at last they

succeeded. Meanwhile, the swell had become so heavy that we had steamed

far out for safety, and were anchored seven miles from the shore. The

boys reached the ship after dark, and we then learned that the white

trader ashore had given them nothing to eat; although the ship would have

repaid him. Those boys had battled with the sea weak with hunger, not

having had a taste of food all that day. It is only fair to say that on

the steamers they are well fed. There are but very few English traders

who would do as that man did; though there are many such men of other

nationalities.

Only a short time afterwards, one evening at the table, an officer who

had been ashore told us a story that was intended to prove the cruelty

of the native. A white trader, he said, had caught a young elephant. He

went away on a journey to the bush, leaving the care of it to his native

workmen. Upon his return, after several months, he found the elephant

in very poor health; and a few weeks later it died. There was no doubt

that the natives had neglected to feed it in his absence, and this was

the cause of its death. Horrible cruelty of the beastly native! Pungent

remarks, appropriate to the occasion, were contributed all around the

table. For myself—I was thinking of those starved and tired boys battling

with a raging sea. But I said not a word. What would be the use?

We need not be sentimental about the native’s wrongs. Though a victim, he

is not necessarily innocent. He would do unto others as others do unto

him; and his life is perhaps not rendered more miserable by the white man

than it was before. But, then, they are _savages_ and we are supposed to

be civilized; and the most wretched excuse that the white man can give

for his cruelty is that he is only imitating the natives themselves. The

white man is always calling the native a devil, and always expecting him

to act like an angel, while he himself, so far from being angelic, sets

an infernal example.

The truth is that the white man in the tropics is out of his element as

much as the diver who works in the deep sea. The atmosphere in which

he was produced and in which he developed—the mental, moral, social

and physical conditions—are also necessary to his moral and physical

maintenance. The climate weakens and depresses him, while at the same

time he is not sustained by domestic cheer and the society of equals

to which he has been accustomed. He is invariably nervous and as a

consequence impatient, while at the same time the circumstances that

confront him in the discharge of his daily duties are such as would try

the temper of a saint. If he remain long in a climate so unnatural to him

and in a strange and uncivilized society the likelihood is that there

will be an imperceptible and unconscious lowering of moral standards and

accommodation to the standards of the society around him. Cruelty which

at first shocked him gradually ceases to shock and at length he becomes

indifferent, or perhaps himself capable of barbarous deeds from which he

would at first have recoiled with horror.

For the men of whom I have been speaking are not inferior to the average

man at home. Your virtues, and the graces of mind and character upon

which you pride yourself—your strength and composure, your patience and

devotion to duty, your honesty, your justice, your purity—all these

belong not only to yourself but to the society which has produced you

and of which you are a part. The moral standards which it has erected

in the course of its social evolution, the safety with which it has

surrounded you, the comforts which this safety has made procurable,

the disapprobation by which it punishes any infraction of its laws—to

these, not to yourself alone, you owe your moral attainments. None but

the highest and most fixed moral standards will bear transportation to

a tropical climate and tropical society. Until this fact is clearly

recognized the relation of civilization to the uncivilized tropics

is likely to be productive of misery and shame. If I did not hate

sensationalism I could easily fill this chapter with a record of the

misdeeds and barbarities in Africa of men, many of whom belonged to

respectable families and to good society and were well-behaved at home.

Neither does the white man become acclimated in the tropics—no more than

the diver in the deep sea. The longer he remains, his physical and moral

resources become the more exhausted. Let us keep these facts in mind in

judging those of whom we have spoken, and those of whom we have yet to

speak in the next chapter.

X

WHITE AND BLACK

“Our only program, I am anxious to repeat, is the work of moral

and material regeneration.”—_King Leopold II._

“The work of civilization, as you call it, is an enormous and

continual butchery.”—_M. Lorand, in the Belgian Parliament._

St. Paul de Loanda, in the Portuguese colony of Angola, is the only place

on the entire west coast of Africa that looks like a real city. It is

several centuries old, and from the sea the appearance is not unlike the

Mediterranean cities of North Africa. But as soon as one goes ashore this

illusion is dissolved. What makes it unlike any other settlement on the

west coast is chiefly its roofs of red tile instead of corrugated iron,

with its superheated appearance, that is used in all places recently

built. The city is also lighted by oil lamps. The harbour being one of

the best, I went ashore with the captain and after a walk about the town

we played a few games of billiards with the British consul. I had then

been several years on the coast and this seemed like a brief return to

civilization. The night coming on brought with it more civilization.

A native band played, by ear, two or three tunes, and played them

well—considering. It is said that they have played those same tunes since

the band was organized, and no one now living remembers when that was.

A mouldering church, _Our Lady of Salvation_, which stands on the beach,

is two and a half centuries old, and is a work of art, containing

interesting and historical scenes in blue and white tiles. From this

place in the dark age of slavery thousands of slaves were shipped across

the Atlantic; and the Roman Catholic bishop sat on the wharf and baptized

them, not individually, but in shiploads. Surely _Our Lady of Salvation_

might have been called _Our Lady of Sorrows_.

There were very few passengers on board, but there were a number of

dogs. The captain had a weakness for dogs. The breed of the dog made

no difference. Whether they were useful or useless, whether sound and

healthy or dreadfully diseased and scarcely able to walk, he loved them

all without partiality or discrimination. Men further up the coast who

had European dogs that were particularly mangy or threatened with rabies

would give them into the captain’s care and he would take them for a

health-change down the coast. At one time there were nine dogs living on

board. He never seemed to realize that in this, as in all other things,

tastes differ; and that a certain dog, an English mastiff, as ugly as the

rest of its kind, might not be entirely welcome to share my soup at the

table just because it was welcome to his.

There were two fox-terriers tied together with five or six feet of small

rope between them. As their health improved these two terriers became

animated beyond all control. They amused themselves by pulling down

cages full of parrots for the delight of hearing them remonstrate in

a prolonged concert of harsh squawking. But their chief exercise was

straight running at breakneck speed from one end of the promenade deck

to the other, with six feet of rope stretched taut between them, to

the terror of the passengers, who were so few in number that they were

regarded as a negligible quantity. There was a lady on board with whom

I occasionally walked until the terriers made it impossible to do so

without sacrificing either comfort or gallantry. At the sight of them

coming towards her, like a whirlwind sweeping down the deck and the

rope threatening to trip her up, the lady’s energy all went to her hands

instead of her feet; for she invariably lost her presence of mind and

stood still wringing her hands instead of hastily retreating into some

safe corner. But I could not understand why she should think that I also

ought to lose my presence of mind and stand still and be tripped when I

had youth and fleetness of limb to accomplish an escape.

We were three days at Benguela during which we witnessed the Mardi Gras

celebration. Men, women, and children filled the streets with merrymaking

and presented a spectacle of fantastic colours, grotesque costumes, and

uncouth masks, such as I had never before seen. Our errand to Benguela

was the delivery of a large consignment of supplies for the newly

projected railway which, it is expected, shall ultimately extend far

inland to the region of Lake Tanganyika, thus connecting with the traffic

of the east coast. The bit of this railway already built represents what

Portugal has done towards the development of Africa in the course of

several centuries.

The trading-houses of Benguela are surrounded by walled enclosures, or

compounds, in former days used for the confinement of slaves awaiting

shipment. This is not like the bush country further north, but is more

open and its main slave-trail extends a thousand miles into the interior.

This is the end of the trail that Livingstone followed in his first

tragic journey across Africa.

But that which ought to be fully known to the civilized world is that

slavery still exists in the whole territory of Angola and in the

adjoining Portuguese islands, and with all its attendant horrors. Most of

the house-servants and factory-servants of Benguela are slaves purchased

with money and frequently resold. Young women are sold and resold by

white men to white men as mistresses. Any white man in Benguela will

tell one that the average price is twenty pounds. She may be resold from

time to time at a decreasing price. The work on the large plantations is

done by slaves who serve under the lash, and it is estimated that half

the population of Angola are in slavery; some would say more than this.

This includes domestic as well as foreign slavery. But the traffic by

the Portuguese has made domestic slavery more severe. They were also

being shipped from Benguela at that time, to the islands of San Thomé

and Principe, at the rate of three or four thousand a year, and in all

probability the number has since increased. I have visited Principe, and

I know something of the actual conditions in that island.

The ways of Portugal have not changed in these four centuries of her

African history. In the year 1509 a Portuguese officer landing in South

Africa became embroiled with the Hottentots and he and twenty of his men

were killed. Three years afterwards a Portuguese captain landed a cannon

loaded with grapeshot as a pretended present to the Hottentots. Men,

women and children gathered around in wonder. While they were admiring

it the Portuguese captain fired it off and looked on with delight as the

wretched people fell in heaps. And Portugal has not changed. The ally

of England from time immemorial, and possessing a remarkable collection

of souvenirs in the form of anti-slavery treaties, some of them recent

and one of them as late as 1885, she still prosecutes her slave-trade

with vigour, albeit with circumspection to her reputation as well as her

profit.

The Bailundu rebellion, in the interior of Angola, in 1902, was still

an occasional topic of conversation. The Portuguese claimed that it was

caused by the few American missionaries of that interior district—as if

their own rapacity and lust were not sufficient explanation. If that be

true, and if it be true that the missionaries are responsible for all

similar wars from Angola to China, as their detractors allege, it is

surely evident that the missionary influence is not to be derided after

all, but is a tremendous force to be reckoned with in national economy.

The Bailundu rebellion was a complete failure. The unorganized native

forces were unable to stand before an army disciplined by white officers,

and it soon developed into a wholesale massacre of natives.

Shortly afterwards a missionary from that part spent a day with me at

Gaboon and recounted many incidents of the war. Portuguese planters

exacted enormous indemnity which reduced many to slavery. Such incidents

as the following occurred: A certain man, in order to pay his portion

of the indemnity exacted by a certain planter, at last was compelled to

sell his two children as slaves. He returned to his village with desolate

heart and tearless eyes, went into his house, came out again, and walked

around it, went into it again and came out with his sword, uttered one

heart-broken cry, and plunging the sword into his breast, killed himself.

As a consequence of the war, however, the Angola secret became known

and there was considerable feeling aroused among the better class in

Portugal. To their righteous remonstrance the government responded by

abolishing the name of slavery and prosecuting the traffic as vigorously

as ever under an ingenious and particularly diabolical form of law called

“labour contract.” The only difference to the native is that while

formerly his servitude was a direct violation of law it is now perfectly

legal; but he is still seized and transported and labours under the lash

until he dies.

In 1905, Mr. Henry W. Nevinson went to Angola for the express purpose

of investigating the reported slavery. Mr. Nevinson upon a careful and

intelligent investigation found the conditions such as I have stated,

and he gave an accurate report in a series of articles in _Harper’s

Magazine_.

The slave-merchant, or “labour-merchant,” as we must now call him,

procures his labourers in the interior, sometimes six hundred or eight

hundred miles from the coast. He pays for them in rifles and other goods.

The price that he offers, while very small, considering the value of a

slave to a planter, is yet sufficient to excite the cupidity of a class

of natives beyond the possibility of control. They first sell their

domestic slaves to the white men, then they sell anybody whom they can

get into their power. In the old slave days it was not safe for three

men to go together to the slave-market lest two of them should combine

to sell the third, and such is always the brutalizing effect of the

slave-trade on many of the natives. Those slaves that are not used on the

plantations of Angola are marched in caravans to the coast. They march in

shackles, or chained together, and under an armed guard. Many die on the

way, sometimes half the caravan.

Arriving at the coast, they are sold, or contracted, to an employer,

usually a planter of San Thomé or Principe, at a large advance on the

interior price. They are then brought by the employer before a magistrate

who draws up a contract in proper legal form. It makes not the slightest

difference what the native answers to the questions asked him or whether

he answers at all, a contract is drawn up in which he declares that he

has come of his own free will to contract for his services at so much

labour for so much pay, and that the contract holds good for five years.

The contractor on his part agrees to pay a certain monthly wage and to

provide food and clothing. The native is given a copy of the contract and

a little tin cylinder in which to keep it, the sign and declaration of

his freedom and protection by law. But hypocrisy can go even further;

for these Portuguese, merchants and government officials, actually pose

as _Philanthropists_. “See,” they say, “what we have done for these men

and women. They were all slaves to black men, and we have redeemed them.”

Philanthropy is usually unlucrative, but the genius of the Portuguese has

made it pay.

Despite the expiration of the contract at the end of five years and the

promise of a free passage home, the native thus transported is never

known to return. Henceforth he is one of a long line of men and women

that labour on the cocoa fields all the day long, some of the women

carrying babies on their backs—that labour in stolid silence under the

lash or the prod of a sharpened stick from early morning till the sound

of the evening bell. That they become debased and immoral is only what

we should expect; and therefore the traffic in men’s bodies is also a

traffic in men’s souls. So they live and toil, each day like all the

others until the last short journey, when, as Mr. Nevinson describes,

“their dead bodies are lashed to poles to be carried out and flung away

in the forest.”

But is there no relief to the dark picture? No compensation? Yes, there

is some compensation. We get cheaper cocoa and plenty of chocolate.

The people of the United States have a deep and practical interest in the

question of the principles that ought to regulate the relations of the

governing and the governed in those tropical countries that are under the

dominion of the various civilized powers. Having come into possession

of the Philippine Islands, with their vast and undeveloped resources,

the problem is their own and waits for solution. Upon the people of

the United States, because of the serious and responsible situation

with which they are confronted, may devolve the task of devising and

administering a form of government in accord with the higher modern

standard of English-speaking people in regard to the national duty

involved in the relation of a civilized power to a subject and savage

people. No graver problem is likely to arise in the course of the entire

century of which we are still on the threshold. And the United States is

the better prepared for her task by the fact that she is uncontrolled by

precedent and unbiased by tradition.

The Portuguese theory of tropical control is evident enough. The acquired

possession is an estate to be worked for the benefit of those in control,

whose right is simply “might.” Its native inhabitants, who have the moral

right to its possession, are counted among the various resources of

the acquired property, and may be exploited accordingly. The practical

sequences of this theory are slavery and plunder.

The theory that surrounds the colony with high tariffs for the exclusive

benefit of the governing power and which concedes foreign monopolies to

the disregard of native interests, is not essentially different from that

of Portugal. This latter is the theory that is being worked out in the

Congo Français as a result of the example and influence of the Belgian

trusts, and the intrigues of King Leopold’s agents in France. We believe

that it cannot be permanent as a form of French colonial government

because of the humane and generous instincts of the French people. And

it is certain that such a policy could not long endure in any territory

under the control of the United States. For a policy in order to be

permanent must have the support of the moral sentiment of the nation, and

such a policy traverses our basal doctrine of the native equality of men.

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