THE _MAGICIENNE_
[Sidenote: 1832. Sept.]
We next had a pretty run down the Straits; sky sails and royal studding
sails, passing everything, opium clippers included.
[Sidenote: Sept. 5.]
Arrived at Singapore, where Robert Ibbetson was Resident; should like
to have remained longer at this charming place, but my turn came later.
On October 1 we were threading our way through this “sea of islands,”
leadsman in the chains, heading for Batavia. Mr. George Bonham, a
member of the Government, was the guest of our Captain, who fancied he
could not bear the smell of tobacco.
It was my first watch. Bonham, who could not sleep, about six bells
came to me in his distress. The Straits were subject to squalls. I
bid the Quartermaster “put the Captain’s skylight on,” and then told
Bonham he might fire away. By the time his cigar was finished, the
“_threatened_” squall had passed, and the Captain allowed to breathe
freely.
[Sidenote: Sept. 8.]
We landed Mr. Bonham at Batavia, and sailed next day, saluting the
Dutch flag.
[Sidenote: Sept. 10.]
At midnight we hailed the United States corvette _Peacock_. He was at
quarters, clear for action.
[Sidenote: Oct. 3.]
Having passed through the Straits of Sunda, arrived at Trincomalee
October 3.
We had no night elephant-shooting this time, but much fun in company of
the Highland Regiment.
[Sidenote: Oct. 15.]
Sailed for Madras. Five days after, during the middle watch, we fell in
with the _Lady Flora_, General Sir Frederick Adam, the newly-appointed
Governor, on board. Our Captain, doing the civil, sent me with an offer
to convey despatches to Madras.
As no one of importance was likely to be out of his cot, I went in
night-watch costume and delivered the message. Considering that we were
within a hundred miles of the anchorage, the Captain did not seem to
take the offer as any compliment to his _Lady Flora_; nevertheless,
he caused a jar of preserved ginger to be put in the boat as a
contribution to the “midshipmen’s mess.”
[Sidenote: Oct. 23.]
We arrived at Madras.
[Sidenote: Oct. 25.]
Two days after, on attending my Captain at the Governor’s levée, Ford,
the Captain of the _Lady Flora_, was astonished to see the mid to whom
he had given the ginger, wearing epaulettes. It was my good-fortune to
be able to make the acquaintance of another of Wellington’s Generals,
and one so distinguished, too, at Waterloo. It was some years after
before the K.C.B. and K.C.M.G., well-earned decorations, were bestowed.
The General strongly resembled his brother Charles, at this time
Rear-Admiral of the White.
Sir Frederick Adam relieved the Right Hon. Stephen Lushington as
Governor.
The houses allotted the naval officers by the Company were on the Mount
Road, a charming promenade. I had a kinsman in Henry, another son of
Dean Garnier. He belonged to a Madras cavalry regiment, but just now
had command of the Governor’s bodyguard. The horses were thoroughbred
Arabs, beautiful to look at, but dangerous to play with. Nevertheless,
after galloping home from a morning ride, dismounting, and hungry for
breakfast, these same horses, deprived of saddle and bridle, would walk
into the bungalow, and eat bread from our hands.
On the Mount Road, near a native hut, between which and the road,
was an elephant, lamed from having trodden on a glass bottle. It
was attended by a native vet. Before any one knew that the vet was
approaching, he would commence a melancholy moan, and swing his huge
limb backwards and forwards until the dressing was commenced. This
little game was repeated daily while we were there.
[Sidenote: Nov. 3.]
We sailed from Madras, and amused ourselves at sea until 24th, when we
arrived at Penang, a gem of an island.
During our first visit the war with Nanning engrossed all our time;
thus, we were unable to spend any time on shore, or explore its
beauties. The road by the coast is shaded by a succession of the
prettiest and coolest-looking bungalows. After business hours some
officials retire to the luxuriously cool Government houses on the
heights.
At the foot of the hill is a refreshing waterfall; just at the angle
where you turn off among the shady forest trees on the path ascending
to the Government buildings. The view from the top is perfection. On
one side is Sumatra, with its Acheen Head to the north-west; on the
other, the Peninsula, stretching away south to Singapore. On the ruins
of a fort there was an old, long brass gun with the arms of Queen
Anne. A strait of one mile and a half separates Penang from the Malay
Peninsula. Tigers and alligators common on both sides. There was more
than one instance of a tiger clinging at night to the accommodation
ladder of a trader for rest, when tides were fresh.
[Sidenote: Malacca, Dec. 1.]
Anchored at Malacca, an interesting old Dutch place. The Stadt House,
where the Resident lived, was built on a low hill facing the sea, and
beautifully cool. The first-floor was approached by a carved ebony
staircase.
A little further to the southward, on a higher hill, stands the old
Church of Notre Dame del Monte, in which St. Francis Xavier had
preached. Lower down are the remains of the city wall, with the Dutch
arms still clinging to it.
Malacca is one of the oldest settlements in the East. Captured by the
English in 1795, restored in 1818, and finally ceded to England in
exchange for Sumatra in 1824, which may account for the Queen Anne gun
at Acheen Head.
[Sidenote: Dec. 21.]
Returned to Madras.
[Sidenote: 1833. January.]
Cannot call our first cruise this new year one of pleasure. It was
in search of an imaginary shoal, supposed to have been discovered by
_Melville_, 74, flagship, in 17° 16′ north latitude, and 85° 57′ east
longitude. We kept deep-sea leads going in the chains, as well as in
pinnace and launch, on either side with one hundred fathoms of line.
Gave it up at end of ten days. It reminded me of Jack’s rhyme:
Six days you shall work as hard as you are able,
On the seventh, holy stone decks and black the chain cable.
[Sidenote: Jan. 26.]
Returned to Madras, where we remained until end of the month.
[Sidenote: Jan. 31.]
We sailed for Calcutta.
[Sidenote: Feb. 10.]
Came to off the Sandheads. Interesting to see the pains taken by
the gentleman-like pilots. Quartermasters were no longer trusted; our
lead-lines marked by themselves to feet instead of fathoms, with their
own leadsmen in the chains.
George Malthers, Royal Marine, died.
[Sidenote: Feb. 11.]
The Marine officer, Lieutenant Ford, no relation to the Captain of
the _Lady Flora_, and myself were sent to Diamond Harbour to bury the
deceased.
Poor Ford was not young. His commission on entering the service as
Lieutenant, the rank he now held, was dated the year in which I was
born; he was, moreover, lame from gout.
We landed at what was called the rest-house. There were rest-houses
all over the Company’s dominions, and I believe are still. The
burial-ground was over a mile away.
The country for some distance was divided into pâdi-fields by
embankments some twelve feet high, thence, into squares about twenty
feet broad, extending for miles. The young pâdi was just beginning to
rise from its bed of mud.
On our return, walking slowly with Ford, having just passed a buffalo
cow, we came to a pretty little calf, which I patted on the back. All
at once I heard a snort, and the next moment I was in the air,--cocked
hat, sword, Prayer-book flying in all directions; myself descending to
the pâdi-field, which held an additional four feet of mud.
[Illustration: _Returning from the Funeral._]
Boat’s crew and firing-party came up with a rush. The ropes that
lowered the coffin to the depths of its grave came in handy to raise me
to the surface. On coming to the top, I saw nothing of the cow, calf,
or poor old Ford. On board he had, of course, a capital story to tell.