THE _MAGICIENNE_
[Sidenote: 1832. March.]
Trincomalee is a beautiful and extensive harbour, which had been taken
and retaken by the Dutch and ourselves several times during the last
century, and at the Peace of Amiens, in 1802, was ceded to England.
In 1702 many pretty naval actions were fought off the island, in which
our neighbours appear to have got the worst. In the centre of the
harbour is Sober Island, about which our liberty men delighted to roam.
Jack had discovered sundry little secret dells, in which, if after
sunset you planted a rupee, on the following morning would find it had
grown into a bottle of samshoo! The island belonged, I believe, by
purchase to Commander Henry Ellis.
Off the dockyard was a useful old hulk, the _Arrogant_, on board which
Divine service was held on the Sabbath Day; and after dinner came
“Sober Island,” with its usual results.
[Sidenote: Mar. 12.]
The _Southampton_, 52, arrived. We saluted the flag of Rear-Admiral Sir
E. W. Owen, K.C.B.
[Sidenote: Mar. 15.]
The dark owner of a small farm brought a report of an invasion by
elephants on his premises, destroying a plantation of cocoanuts,
yam, and fruit, and if gentlemen sportsmen liked to come at night he
was ready to show the way. This was indeed a chance. There was no
difficulty in getting up a night picnic. Climate perfection--coolies
willing.
Towards midnight it came over a thick mist. Curries and songs expended.
Our guide professed to scent Gadjá, and proposed an advance.
We were led into a low jungle bordering a pâdi-field, but so dark
you could scarcely see your hand. However, we could hear there was
something alive, and my attention was called to a darker patch, into
which we were directed to fire. There was a groan and a splash. It
was too dark to follow, and our guide proposed the search should be
postponed until after breakfast.
When I got back I found myself invited to dine with the Admiral, who
had been informed of my night picnic. The dinner was a grand affair,
the Admiral’s band, ladies of officials, and all the Captains present.
On retiring from the table, as we sat pretending to enjoy the music,
the Secretary brought a letter to the Admiral, written in Tamil
characters. Interpretation as follows:
“TO HIS EXCELLENCY’S REAR-ADMIRAL, SIR E. W. OWEN, K.C.B.,
COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY’S NAVY AND EAST INDIA’S SEAS.
“_The Humble Petition of Conanyaga Modr Tillenadin_
“MOST HUMBLY SHEWETH,
“That the petitioner most humbly and submissively begs leave
to acquaint Your Excellency that on Thursday, March 15, 1832,
about ten o’clock at night, three gentlemen of the ship
_Magicienne_ came hunting in the China village, and adjoining
a pâdi-field the petitioner’s buffaloes were grazing, the
buffaloes never being accustomed to be confined or be tied
up to a stick in the night-time. The said gentlemen shot
petitioner’s three buffaloes, which died that night. Two
measures of milk daily was received from one. One she-buffalo
was big, and another has a calf of one month old, which is
alive now, but will not live long for want of the mother.
“Therefore petitioner most submissively prays Your Excellency
will be graciously pleased to favour the petitioner by having
justice done to him. The cattle valued is the lowest at the sum
of six pounds.
“For which act of favouring the petitioner is in duty bound.
“(Signed)
“TRINCOMALEE,
“_March 16, 1832_.”
I had the account settled, but my firm belief is that the writer of the
petition and our guide were one and the same person.
[Sidenote: Mar. 29.]
Arrived _Comet_, 18, Commander A. A. Sandilands. _Imogene_, 28, Captain
Price Blackwood.
[Sidenote: April 12.]
_Alligator_, 28, Captain G. R. Lambert.
[Sidenote: April 17.]
My first night’s supper at Holyoake’s quarters was an introduction to
these kind Highlanders. Captain Forbes appeared to have had several
elephant-shooting parties. Holyoake had been in more than one, with
some narrow escapes. But now he was all for smaller game.
Snipe-shooting in India is an attractive sport, but after sunrise
birds lie closer, while you are the less inclined to retire to your
comfortable rest-house.
As the ground was distant seventeen miles, eleven of which lay through
dense jungle, we were off before daylight, and arrived in good time,
enjoying such sport as is found nowhere except in the Far East,
returning to a breakfast of curry and rice, tobacco, etc.
“Sport” not being in my Captain’s dictionary, it was necessary to
renew my leave, which, being confined to four-and-twenty hours, obliged
me to return to the ship.
Having observed as we came fresh tracks of elephants, I made anxious
inquiries as to what I should do if I came across one. My anxiety was
laughed at. I was assured that the only danger lay in meeting a male
detached from the herd.
I had advanced some four miles in the jungle, which was anything
but a straight path, when my horse began to snort and show signs of
uneasiness. On entering the next bend, I saw, to my horror, a huge
elephant blocking the way.
Remembering instructions, I held up my arms and bellowed out, which
drew attention. He put out his trunk, as if to smell what I was, and
trumpeted. The sound pierced through me. He flapped his ears, which
looked like barn-doors, and rushed at me. My horse sprang round in the
narrow jungle-path. The elephant was then close, and nothing but my hat
coming off, which he stopped to examine, gave me a start.
The ground was uneven, being, in fact, the dried-up bed of a mountain
stream. As I had to avoid obstacles at times, the brute gained on me,
I meanwhile suffering the torture of fright. After some four miles,
coming to the edge of a lake, which I had passed in the morning, I
observed that the elephant had stopped.
[Illustration: _An Elephant in Chase._]
My horse was not fit for many yards further, and the heat of the sun
reminded me I had no hat. I pulled up to have a look at my enemy, who
placed himself on the edge of the jungle I had just cleared. I profited
by this to make a head-covering of my pocket-handkerchief, then
carefully examined the monster, feeling I had the advantage of level
ground. With his trunk he threw up an amount of dust and dirt, which
descended on his back, driving away clouds of flies. One would have
thought his hide impervious to such tiny foes.
I continued my retreat, with such speed and dignity as my poor horse
was capable of, to the rest-house. I found my companions luxuriating
in sleep and tobacco. Exhausted by my adventure, I threw myself into a
chair and sang out “Grog!” One of my friends remarked:
“Why, it’s Keppel back again!”
I had strength enough to exclaim I had seen an elephant, which caused
a roar of laughter. They declared I must have come across a rogue
detached from the herd.
Soon refreshed, I stated that I must start again for the harbour. The
good Adjutant, John Edward Bull, kindly lent me his horse. I described
the place where I had left the elephant, and as they did not think
he would have moved far, my friends decided to try a shot at him.
Unfortunately, on examining the ammunition, they found themselves
prepared for snipe only.
I then asked for a convoy. The whole party turned out, and two coolies
were told off to keep a hundred yards in advance.
We found the elephant where I left him. He charged the coolies,
who plunged into the lake, re-landing in the jungle; the elephant
disappeared. The party returned to the rest-house, while I went on my
way.
Before sighting the advance, my nerves got another shock. I heard
a crash through the jungle. It was no use retreating. A glimpse of
daylight broke from above, showing a troop of a thousand monkeys,
jumping in a westerly direction along the upper branches of the jungle
bushes. On discerning me chattering increased.
A boat, nearer the _Magicienne_ than the dockyard, was waiting for me.
Back in my cabin, I felt how much I needed rest and quiet.
[Sidenote: April 21.]
Sailed with _Crocodile_, but, to keep company with our senior while off
the wind, we had to lower topsails on the cap.
[Sidenote: April 24.]
We arrived at Madras Roads.
Madras is an open roadstead, safe only during the westerly monsoon.
Surf always breaking on the beach. Communication with the shore only
by native boats, called _masúlas_. These curious boats are built of
mango-wood, caulked with straw and sewn together with cocoanut fibre.
Their length is about thirty feet, by ten broad, with a depth of seven
or eight feet. They are propelled by oars with round, flat ends. The
crew consists of a dozen natives and a _tindal_, who steers, and leads
the song, which, discordant though it is, is a help in the movement of
the boat; the time depends on the rate of the surf.
Letters, called _chits_, are conveyed by naked natives in
catamarans--three misshapen logs lashed together by _rôtans_, and
propelled through, not over, the waves. Sharks, too, were in close
attendance--apparently for company only.
The changes of monsoon, in May and October, are often accompanied by
hurricanes.
I always thought the East Indies the pleasantest of stations while
governed by the good old John Company. Their liberality was unbounded.
Such a thing as an hotel or lodging-house was not to be found. On
your landing at either of the Presidencies, coolies were in waiting,
and there was almost a fight between the _daibashes_ as to who should
get possession of your portmanteau; while yourself was carried off in
a palanquin on the shoulders of four dark coolies, who bore you in
triumph to their master’s house.
Such were our princely merchants. The liberality of John Company
exceeded everything. Not only was a commissioned officer’s pay
doubled--it was called _batta_--but the Company kept houses furnished
at all stations to which a man-of-war could go. Servants, plate, and
linen were found. The cooking, too! Such curries as I had never even
dreamed of!
Tiffin appeared to be the meal of the day, in which the gentler sex
joined. Bass’s pale ale, and claret, cooled by saltpetre, were the
rival drinks.
Perry, Dare and Co. were the Navy agents, who were second to none in
hospitality.
News had reached Madras of fresh disturbances at Nanning, on the Malay
Peninsula. We sailed.
[Sidenote: May 14.]
Anchored at Nancowry Harbour, one of the Nicobar Group, sailing
following day.
[Sidenote: May 19.]
Arrived at Penang; remained only long enough to take in stores and
freight for service. Penang was notorious at this time for fever, which
attacked the young men most severely: few under thirty recovered.
[Sidenote: June 6.]
We anchored off Malacca, some distance from the shore, owing to the
shallowness of the water, which caused an unpleasant rolling motion.
The authorities sat in council on our arrival. John Company had had
trouble with different chiefs. In 1830 the Rajah of Nanning, Dool
Sayd, was in rebellion, in which he was abetted by neighbouring petty
chiefs. He had then seized territory adjoining our settlement of
Malacca.
The following year the Company despatched a force of 5000 men. It
was not successful, and they had to retire on Malacca, leaving two
six-pounder brass guns in the jungle.
The province of Nanning, distant from the coast, was only reached by
river. Authorities decided that, while the troops prepared to advance
by land, our boats were to blockade the rivers Lingghi, Moowar, and
Kissang, embracing some sixty miles of coast.
Here is the copy of my first order:
“By James Hanway Plumridge, Esq.
Capt. of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_, and
Senior Officer, Malacca.
The Government having resolved upon the blockading the rivers
Lingy, Moowar, and Kissang, and issued proclamation thereof.
You are hereby required and directed after visiting the boats
named in the margin and taking care to see they are provided
with arms, ammunition, stores, and provisions for eight days
for their several crews, to proceed to the entrance of the
Moowar river and there remain till further orders.
Should boats persist in endeavouring to force their way down,
or do not return without gunshot, you will detain them, landing
their guns on shore except the person in charge, and send their
boats to Malacca. All proas and boats are in the first instance
to be warned off, and informed the river is under blockade both
ways; and it is my direction that you use all the diligence and
means in your power to keep the said river in a complete and
effectual state of blockade.
I rely on your forbearance and vigilance in the execution of
these duties, and have little doubt you will acquit yourself
as much to my satisfaction as when last on detached service.
Given under my hand on board His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_ at
Malacca this 10th day of June 1832.
(Signed) HANWAY PLUMRIDGE, Capt.
To Lieutenant the Honble. Henry Keppel,
of His Majesty’s Ship _Magicienne_.”
I felt much interest in this small expedition. My force consisted of
the _Diamond_, hired schooner, mounting four noisy brass guns; she also
carried a four-oared gig for my particular use. Besides this, there was
a schooner-rigged pinnace and seven man-of-war boats. We were attended
from Malacca by a mixture of Dutch, Portuguese, and Malays, in various
floating craft.
A larger river, the Lingghi, to the eastward, was commanded by Hutton.
The line of coast blockaded extended sixty miles. Before taking up my
blockading position, we had a ceremonious visit to pay the chief whose
rivers we were about to occupy.
The Rajah of Moowar was a loyal adherent of the Government, but he was
without the power to prevent the munitions of war passing into the
Nanning territory.
From the ship, although some way off, I was enabled to obtain
assistance to make a suitable display on presenting the official
letter, as well as the sword which had been added.
The palace, like most Malay buildings, projected into the water, where
it is supported on piles, and shaded by _kadjangs_. The blockading
fleet was anchored opposite, in line. A Malay royal salute consists of
3 guns only, but unluckily there is no limit to the number of salutes.
The senior mid, Mr. D. B. Bedford, an intelligent youth, undertook
the office of master of ceremonies, and appointed himself to carry
the colours, while I was of too great importance to do any more than
I could help! We landed from a procession of boats: a Marine officer,
Lieutenant Ford, and myself bringing up the rear.
A high-caste Malay is never in a hurry. The important part of the
ceremony, to them, consisted in the length of time they could keep us
waiting. _I_ considered myself second only to the Rajah in importance;
but it was evident that I was eclipsed by Lieutenant Ford, of the Royal
Marines, in his red coat and tall feather.
After a time, by a side-opening, there appeared a yellow-silk
canopy supported on poles, which sheltered His Highness. He wore a
red-and-green handkerchief round his head, with a corner sticking up.
His legs well through dark-red trousers, a Highland-looking sarong, and
a beautiful gold-embroidered _kris_ inlaid with precious stones, stuck
in his waist.
After shaking of hands and a palaver through interpreters, the letter
was presented, amid the cheers of the _fleet_! and salutes from the
brass guns. The same was repeated when the sword was delivered. Coffee
and sweetmeats were carried by ladies of the harem.
[Illustration: _A Royal Salute._]
Here my assistants showed symptoms of weariness. I noticed that
the Rajah flinched as each gun went off. Wanting to accelerate the
departure of the kind assistance I had received from the ship, which
was over twenty miles off, I ordered another salute to be fired. The
good Rajah became very anxious that I should be informed that the reply
to the letter would be forwarded without delay to the “General of the
Honourable Company” at Malacca. As I saw he began to look really ill,
I let him off the last salute, and thus concluded the ceremony.
My friends from the _Magicienne_ came on board the _Diamond_, where I
had prepared a blow-out of chickens boiled in pea-soup and onions, to
be washed down by Bass’s pale ale, to which they did ample justice.
They then departed, leaving me alone in my glory.
Presentation of the letter and sword to the Rajah over, and my
assistants from the ship not in sight, I arranged my small fleet. By
a convenient bend of the river, we could move to a position out of
sight of the palace. Bedford in pinnace, and two native boats, armed,
carrying eight men each, had to blockade the mouth of the Kissang,
keeping a good look-out for signals.
The _Diamond_ lay nearer the western side of the Moowar, with a
war-boat at a respectable distance ahead and another astern of her. The
other seven boats formed a line nearer the eastern shore, just within
hail of one another, leaving an open space in the middle of the river
for prizes. To each boat was attached a canoe, which of course was the
“Captain’s gig.” The whole was arranged in less than an hour, when I
was glad to get back to the _Diamond_.
I had an interpreter who likewise played the fiddle, a good native
curry cook, my gig’s crew and three Royal Marines for sentries, a
corporal who did officer. The company of midshipmen commanding boats
could be obtained by signal.
Quiet as the jungle was by day, with its savage inhabitants, we were
little prepared for their midnight carousals, when they came to
wash their mouths out. The first roar sounded so loud, while I was
dreaming, that I fancied my _Diamond_ had been carried by boarding, and
that my reign was over, ere it had well begun.
The following day the Rajah granted an audience. I took my coxswain and
interpreter only. Nothing could have been nicer or more gentlemanlike.
He was evidently a keen sportsman, but a spear more to his hand than a
double barrel. He informed me that the jungle contained elephants, a
few of them white; tigers and black panthers, buffaloes and wild cattle
(_Bos gaurus_), large Samba deer, wild-pig, small bears, besides a
variety of monkeys.
He presented me with a handsome spear, seven feet long. Below the blade
there was a foot of wrought gold, very handsome; and then human hair,
reddish, but whether natural or dyed I could not tell. By virtue of
this royal spear I could demand anything. I have it now. Orders had
already been given that nothing should be received without payment in
full.
Being fond of a stroll with gun, coxswain carrying ammunition, I went
for a short distance into the jungle. Observing on the top branch of a
high tree,--some ninety feet from the ground, a round-looking lump, I
fired. It fell; on my running up, a little monkey jumped from under. A
large Brahmin kite, at a stoop, seized the child. A piece of wood at
hand enabled me to throw near enough to cause the kite to drop it. The
poor little thing ran for protection to the murderer of its mother. It
was the first monkey I ever shot; needless to say, it was the last.
On board, we found it was badly hurt. The kite’s talons had penetrated
the skin; the wounds were dressed, and it was made over to the care
of a kind mid, by name Glynn. But where the claws had penetrated
maggots bred: rum would not destroy them; it was thought kinder to let
the little thing get tipsy on sugar and rum, and when in a state of
insensibility commit the little body to the deep.
The Rajah soon found out that I was fond of sport. He now took me in
his state boat to a spot up the river towards the Rumbau range, which
heads the Moowar.
On landing, he led me to an opening, and, seated on a fallen tree, we
saw at least five hundred elephants with young ones at foot, passing
quietly through the low jungle, the elders breaking off the tender
green shoots, and so feeding their young. The whole mass moved in a
slow and solemn manner. The males were excluded. A sight that I shall
never forget!
[Illustration: _Elephants with Young at Foot, Moowar Valley._]
Dark quickly follows sunset.
Wishing to test the alertness observed on board my puny fleet, I sent
secretly, beyond the bend of the river, a Malay with a cocoanut-oil
lamp, to be placed with lighted wick so as to float down close to the
bushes. The stream was running fresh.
[Sidenote: July.]
About 9 P.M. heard the first hail; the second was followed by the
report of a musket, and so repeated down the line. My imaginary enemy
floated out to sea, the Chief having made no signal to chase. Soon all
was quiet until the denizens of the jungle announced their thirst.
One morning the Rajah borrowed a three-pounder brass swivel he had
noticed on board. An hour later I heard a report and started in the
gig. It was a pull against stream and a scramble over deep marshy
ground, which was worse for us than for Malay guides, which the Rajah
had sent, knowing the report of the swivel would bring me.
We found His Highness had had a climb. With the three-pounder swivel he
had broken the near hind-leg of a female elephant just above the lower
joint. As we came up the poor beast made a fresh attempt to escape. As
the Rajah appeared to be indifferent, I thought it would be a mercy to
put her out of misery.
In Ceylon, the vulnerable spot in the forehead had been pointed out to
me. A rifle-shot put her out of misery. It was amusing to see the ease
with which the young one, by a swing of the leg, turned over any one of
the boat’s crew who attempted to pass the painter over its head.
[Illustration: _Blue-jackets in Chase._]
As morning broke, a refreshing rifle-shot was generally to be found by
a sleeping alligator on the mud. If you hit him, he would slide into
the river. I have often fancied they do not hear: within a couple of
inches, I have struck rocks and mud without disturbing them.
During frequent excursions with the Rajah, I penetrated the
domesticities of elephant life: guided by Malays to selected spots in
the jungle. I have seen beds prepared of soft young branches, about
three feet deep, neatly squared off like a well-made stable litter.
This, it appears, is an attention paid by the male to his consort.
One evening, observing from the _Diamond_ a huge alligator asleep on
the mud, some distance up the opposite shore, I embarked with one Malay
lad in a small canoe, and paddled up-stream far up on the opposite
bank, hoping to drop down in time with the tide, to get a shot that
might take effect.
On reaching the place, I found marks which showed he had slid off the
bank. I had given up all hopes of him, and was plunging my steering,
pointed, paddle deep into the water. It struck something hard, and I
found the alligator directly under the canoe; his head appeared under
the port-bow, his tail lashing the water, covering myself and native
boy with mud. Why the brute did not capsize us and make a meal, I
cannot imagine, for the canoe was balanced athwart his back. I believe
he was more startled, if possible, than we were.
A few days after this little ruse, I received information from the
Rajah that a large prahu was running a cargo in the jungle, two
miles to the southward of the entrance to the Moowar. The boats of
the squadron were getting ready, while I, with the interpreter and a
double-barrelled rifle, started at once to seaward, and found a large
trading-boat endeavouring to make sail. As soon as I got within reach,
a ball from my rifle caused both sails to be lowered. By this time she
had opened the mouth of the river: there was no further trouble. The
interpreter pointed out her berth in the centre of the river.
The Nanning war was now over, the Company had recovered their guns,
and the natives glad to come to any terms. The blockading squadron was
recalled to the ship. This expedition, which I thoroughly enjoyed,
lasted from June 10 to August 23.
A few days after I rejoined the ship a boat came alongside, with the
young elephant on board, and messengers from the Rajah asking me to
accept it as a parting gift. Needless to say, it was a present my smart
Captain would not permit me to accept.
I was sorry to part with my good friend the Rajah. So persuaded was
he of my merits, that he solemnly offered me the hand of his daughter
in marriage, on condition that I would become his heir and succeed
him on the throne of Moowar. It was no idle jest. His Highness wrote
officially to the Powers at Penang, and for some years the document was
to be seen in the Government offices.
I have endeavoured to obtain a copy of this flattering proposal; but
the lapse of time, the changes of administration in the affairs of
the Straits Settlements, to say nothing of the ravages of white ants,
preclude my presenting it to my readers.