ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO ON HEADWATERS OF
THE ARKANSAW AND RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH, 1807.
_Monday, Dec. 1st._ The storm still continuing with violence, we
remained encamped; the snow by night was one foot deep. Our horses
were obliged to scrape it away to obtain their miserable pittance, and
to increase their misfortunes the poor animals were attacked by the
magpies, which, attracted by the scent of their sore backs, alighted
on them, and in defiance of their wincing and kicking, picked many
places quite raw. The difficulty of procuring food rendered those
birds so bold as to alight on our men's arms and eat meat out of their
hands. One of our hunters went out, but killed nothing.
_Dec. 2d._ It cleared off in the night, and in the morning the
thermometer stood at 17° below zero (Reaumer [Réaumur]), being three
times as cold as any morning we had yet experienced. We killed an old
buffalo on the opposite [north] side of the river, which here was so
deep as to swim horses. Marched and found it necessary to cross to the
north side, about two miles up, as the ridge joined the river.[III-1]
The ford was a good one, but the ice ran very bad, and two of the men
got their feet frozen before we could get accommodated with fire, etc.
Secured some of our old buffalo and continued our march. The country
being very rugged and hilly, one of our horses took a freak in his
head and turned back, which occasioned three of our rear-guard to lie
out all night; I was very apprehensive they might perish on the
prairie. Distance 13 miles.
_Dec. 3d._ The weather moderating to 3° below zero, our absentees
joined, one with his feet frozen, but were not able to bring up the
horse. I sent two men back on horseback. The hardships of last voyage
[_i. e._, that up the Mississippi, winter of 1805-6] had now begun;
and had the climate only been as severe as the climate then was, some
of the men must have perished, for they had no winter clothing. I wore
myself cotton overalls, for I had not calculated on being out in that
inclement season of the year.
Dr. Robinson and myself, with assistants, went out and took the
altitude of the north mountain [Pike's Peak], on the base of a mile.
The perpendicular height of this mountain, from the level of the
prairie, was 10,581 feet, and admitting that the prairie was 8,000
feet from the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this
peak 18,581 feet; equal to some and surpassing the calculated height
of others for the peak of Teneriffe, and falling short of that of
Chimborazo only 1,701 feet. Indeed, it was so remarkable as to be
known to all the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, to be
spoken of with admiration by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and to be
the bounds of their travels N. W. In our wandering in the mountains it
was never out of sight, except when in a valley, from the 14th of
November to the 27th of January.[III-2]
After this, together with Sparks, we endeavored to kill a cow, but
without effect. Killed two bulls, that the men might use pieces of
their hides for mockinsons. Left Sparks out. On our return to camp
found the men had got back with the strayed horse, but too late to
march.
_Dec. 4th._ Marched about five o'clock; took up Sparks, who had
succeeded in killing a cow. Killed two buffaloes and six turkeys.
Distance 20 miles.[III-3]
_Dec. 5th._ Marched at our usual hour. Passed one very bad place of
falling rocks; had to carry our loads. Encamped on the main branch of
the river [as distinguished from Grape creek], near the entrance of
the South [Wet] mountain. In the evening walked up to the mountain.
Heard 14 guns at camp during my absence, which alarmed me
considerably; returned as quickly as possible, and found that the
cause of my alarm was their shooting turkeys. Killed two buffaloes and
nine turkeys. Distance 18 miles.[III-4]
_Dec. 6th._ Sent out three different parties to hunt the Spanish
trace, but without success. The doctor and myself followed the river
into the mountain, where it was bounded on each side by the rocks of
the mountain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 or 60 feet
[in the "Royal Gorge"]. Killed two buffaloes, two deer, one turkey.
_Sunday, Dec. 7th._ We again dispatched parties in search of the
trace. One party discovered it, on the other side of the river, and
followed it into the valley of the river at the entrance of the
mountain, where they met two parties who were returning from exploring
the two branches[III-5] of the river, in the mountains; of which they
reported that they had ascended until the river was merely a brook,
bounded on both sides with perpendicular rocks, impracticable for
horses ever to pass them; they had then recrossed the river to the
north side, and discovered, as they supposed, that the Spanish troops
had ascended a dry valley to the right. On their return they found
some rock-salt, samples of which were brought me. We determined to
march the morrow to the entrance of the valley, there to examine the
salt and the road. Killed one wildcat.
_Dec. 8th._ On examining the trace found yesterday, conceived it to
have been only a reconnoitering party, dispatched from the main body;
and on analyzing the rock-salt, found it to be strongly impregnated
with sulphur. There were some very strong sulphurated springs at its
foot. Returned to camp; took with me Dr. Robinson and Miller, and
descended the river, in order to discover certainly if the whole
[Spanish] party had come by this route. Descended about seven miles on
the south side [of the Arkansaw]. Saw great quantities of turkeys and
deer. Killed one deer.
_Dec. 9th._ Before we marched, killed a fine buck at our camp as he
was passing. Found the Spanish camp about four miles below; and, from
every observation we could make, conceived they had all ascended the
river. Returned to camp, where we arrived about two o'clock. Found all
well; would have moved immediately, but four men were out
reconnoitering. Killed three deer.
_Dec. 10th._ Marched and found the road over the mountain to be
excellent. Encamped in a dry ravine.[III-6] Obliged to melt snow for
ourselves and horses; and as there was nothing else for the latter to
eat, gave them one pint of corn each. Killed one buffalo.
_Dec. 11th._ Marched at ten o'clock, and in one mile struck a branch
[Oil creek] of the Arkansaw on which the supposed Spaniards had
encamped, where there was both water and grass. Kept up this branch,
but was frequently embarrassed as to the trace; at three o'clock,
having no sign of it, halted and encamped, and went out to search it;
found it about one mile to the right. Distance 15 miles.
_Dec. 12th._ Marched at nine o'clock. Continued up the same branch
[Oil creek] as yesterday. The ridges on our right and left appeared to
grow lower, but mountains appeared on our flanks, through the
intervals, covered with snow. Owing to the weakness of our horses, we
made only 12 miles.[III-7]
_Dec. 13th._ Marched at the usual hour; passed large springs, and the
supposed Spanish camp; crossed at twelve o'clock a dividing
ridge,[III-8] and immediately fell on a small branch running N. 20°
W. There being no appearance of wood, we left it and the Spanish trace
to our right, and made for the hills to encamp. After the halt I took
my gun and went out to see what discovery I could make. After marching
about two miles north, fell on a river 40 yards wide, frozen over;
which, after some investigation, I found ran northeast. This was the
occasion of much surprise, as we had been taught to expect to meet
with the branches of Red river, which should run southeast. Query:
Must it not be the headwaters of the river Platte? [Answer: You are on
the South Platte, at the head of Eleven Mile cañon.] If so, the
Missouri must run much more west than is generally represented; for
the Platte is a small river, by no means presenting an expectation of
so extensive a course. One horse gave out and was left. Distance 18
miles.
_Sunday, Dec. 14th._ Marched; struck the river, ascended it four
miles, and encamped on the north side.[III-9] The prairie, being
about two miles wide, was covered for at least six miles along the
banks of the river with horse-dung and the marks of Indian camps,
which had been made since cold weather, as was evident by the fires
which were in the center of the lodges. The sign made by their horses
was astonishing, and would have taken a thousand horses some months.
As it was impossible to say which course the Spaniards had pursued,
amongst this multiplicity of signs, we halted early, and discovered
that they or the savages had ascended the river. We determined to
pursue them, as the geography of the country had turned out to be so
different from our expectations. We were somewhat at a loss which
course to pursue, unless we attempted to cross the snow-capped
mountains to the southeast of us, which was almost impossible. Burst
one of our rifles, which was a great loss, as it made three guns which
had burst; five had been broken on the march, and one of my men was
now armed with my sword and pistols. Killed two buffaloes.
_Dec. 15th._ After repairing our guns we marched, but were obliged to
leave another horse. Ascended the river, both sides of which were
covered with old Indian camps, at which we found corn-cobs. This
induced us to believe that those savages, although erratic, must
remain long enough in one position to cultivate this grain, or obtain
it of the Spaniards. From their sign they must have been extremely
numerous, and possessed vast numbers of horses. My poor fellows
suffered extremely with cold, being almost naked. Distance 10
miles.[III-10]
_Dec. 16th._ Marched up the river about two miles and killed a
buffalo; when, finding no road up the stream, we halted and dispatched
parties in different courses, the doctor and myself ascending high
enough to enable me to lay down the course of the river into the
mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitered the adjacent country,
and concluded, putting the Spanish trace out of the question, to bear
our course southwest, for the head of Red river.[III-11] One of our
party found a large camp, which had been occupied by at least 3,000
Indians, with a large cross in the middle. Query: Are those people
Catholics? [Answer: No--party of Comanches and Kiowas, among whom was
James Pursley.]
_Dec. 17th._ Marched; and on striking a left-hand fork of the river we
had left, found it to be the main branch [of the South Platte];
ascended it to some distance, but finding it to bear too much to the
north, we encamped about two miles from it, for the purpose of
benefiting by its water. Distance 15 miles.[III-12]
_Dec. 18th._ Marched, and crossed the mountain [one of the Trout
Creek Pass hills] which lay southwest of us; in a distance of seven
miles arrived at a small spring. Some of our lads observed that they
supposed it to be Red river, to which I then gave very little credit.
On entering a gap in the next mountain [of the Park range], came past
an excellent spring, which formed a fine [Trout] creek. This we
followed through narrows in the mountains for about six miles. Found
many evacuated camps of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing
out the ground for the encampment, the doctor and myself went on to
make discoveries, as was our usual custom, and in about four miles'
march we struck what we supposed to be Red river [but was the
Arkansaw], which here was about 25 yards wide, ran with great
rapidity, and was full of rocks. We returned to the party with the
news, which gave general pleasure. Determined to remain a day or two
in order to examine the source. Snowing. Distance 18 miles.[III-13]
_Dec. 19th._ Marched down the creek near the opening of the prairie,
and encamped;[III-14] sent out parties hunting, etc., but had no
success. Still snowing and stormy; making preparations to take an
observation.
_Dec. 20th._ Having found a fine place for pasture on the river, sent
our horses down to it with a guard; also, three parties out hunting,
all of whom returned without success. Took an observation. As there
was no prospect of killing any game, it was necessary that the party
should leave that place. I therefore determined that the doctor and
Baroney should descend the river in the morning; that myself and two
men would ascend; and that the rest of the party should descend after
the doctor, until they obtained provisions and could wait for me.
_Sunday, Dec. 21st._ The doctor and Baroney marched; the party
remained for me to take a meridional observation; after which we
separated. Myself and the two men who accompanied me, Mountjoy and
Miller, ascended 12 miles[III-15] and encamped on the north side. The
river continued close to the north mountain [Park range], running
through a narrow rocky channel in some places not more than 20 feet
wide and at least 10 feet deep. Its banks were bordered by yellow
pine, cedar, etc.
_Dec. 22d._ Marched up [the Arkansaw] 13 miles,[III-16] to a large
point of the mountain, whence we had a view at least 35 miles, to
where the river entered the mountains; it being at that place not more
than 10 or 15 feet wide, and properly speaking, only a brook. From
this place, after taking the course and estimating the distance, we
returned to our camp of last evening. Killed one turkey and a hare.
_Dec. 23d._ Marched early, and at two o'clock discovered the trace of
our party on the opposite side of the river; forded it, although
extremely cold, and marched until some time in the night, when we
arrived at the second night's encampment[III-17] of our party. Our
clothing was frozen stiff, and we ourselves were considerably
benumbed.
_Dec. 24th._ The party's provisions extended only to the 23d, and
their orders were not to halt until they killed some game, and then
wait for us; consequently they might have been considerably advanced.
About eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on a prairie, who informed me
that he and Baroney had been absent from the party two days without
killing anything, also without eating; but that overnight they had
killed four buffaloes, and that he was in search of the men. I
suffered the two lads [Miller, Mountjoy] with me to go to the camp
where the meat was, as we had also been nearly two days without
eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trace and found them
encamped on the river-bottom. Sent out horses for the meat. Shortly
afterward Sparks arrived and informed us he had killed four cows.
Thus, from being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in our
camp.[III-18]
We now again found ourselves all assembled together on Christmas Eve,
and appeared generally to be content, although all the refreshment we
had to celebrate that day with was buffalo meat, without salt, or any
other thing whatever. My little excursion up the river had been in
order to establish the geography of the sources of the supposed Red
river. As I well knew that the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter,
[William] Dunbar, and [Thomas] Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in
the extent of their voyage up said river, I determined that its upper
branches should be equally well explored. In this voyage I had already
ascertained the sources of the [Little] Osage and White [Neosho]
rivers, been round the head of the Kans river [_i. e._, above the
confluence of its Smoky Hill and Republican forks], and on the
headwaters of the [South] Platte.
_Dec. 25th._ It being stormy weather and having meat to dry, I
concluded to lie by this day. Here I must take the liberty of
observing that, in this situation, the hardships and privations we
underwent were on this day brought more fully to our mind, having been
accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra enjoyments. But
here, 800 miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most
inclement season of the year--not one person clothed for the
winter--many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for
socks, etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet ground,
one side burning whilst the other was pierced with the cold wind--such
was in part the situation of the party, whilst some were endeavoring
to make a miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. I
will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath the serious
consideration of a man on a voyage of such a nature. We spent the day
as agreeably as could be expected from men in our situation.
Caught a bird of a new species [_Conurus carolinensis_] having made a
trap for him. This bird was of a green color, almost the size of a
quail, had a small tuft on its head like a pheasant, and was of the
carnivorous species; it differed from any bird we ever saw in the
United States. We kept him with us in a small wicker cage, feeding him
on meat, until I left the interpreter on the Arkansaw, with whom I
left it. We at one time took a companion of the same species and put
them in the same cage, when the first resident never ceased attacking
the stranger until he killed him.
_Dec. 26th._ Marched at two o'clock and made 7½ miles to the entrance
of the mountains.[III-19] On this piece of prairie the river spreads
considerably, and forms several small islands; a large stream [South
Arkansaw] enters from the south. As my boy and some others were sick,
I omitted pitching our tent in order that they might have it; in
consequence of which we were completely covered with snow on top, as
well as that part on which we lay.
_Dec. 27th._ Marched over an extremely rough road; our horses received
frequent falls, and cut themselves considerably on the rocks. From
there being no roads of buffalo, or signs of horses, I am convinced
that neither those animals, nor the aborigines of the country, ever
take this route, to go from the source of the river out of the
mountains; but that they must cross one of the chains to the right or
left, and find a smoother tract to the lower country. Were obliged to
unload our horses and carry the baggage at several places. Distance
12½ miles.[III-20]
_Sunday, Dec. 28th._ Marched over an open space [Pleasant Valley];
and, from the appearance before us, concluded we were going out of the
mountains; but at night encamped at the entrance of the most
perpendicular precipices on both sides, through which the river ran
and our course lay. Distance 16 miles.[III-21]
_Dec. 29th._ Marched; but owing to the extreme ruggedness of the road,
made but five miles.[III-22] Saw one of a new species of animal on the
mountains; ascended to kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the
impossibility of getting along with the horses, made one sled, which
with the men of three horses, carries their load [_i. e._, on which
the men dragged the loads of three horses].
_Dec. 30th._ Marched; but at half past one o'clock were obliged to
halt and send back for the sled loads, as the men had broken it and
could not proceed, owing to the waters running over the ice. Crossed
our horses twice on the ice. Distance eight miles.[III-23]
_Dec. 31st._ Marched; had frequently to cross the river on the ice;
horses falling down, we were obliged to pull them over on the ice.
The river turned so much to the north as almost induced us to believe
it was the Arkansaw. Distance 10¾ miles.[III-24]
_Jan. 1st, 1807._ The doctor and one man marched early, in order to
precede the party until they should kill a supply of provision. We had
great difficulty in getting our horses along, some of the poor animals
having nearly killed themselves in falling on the ice. Found on the
way one of the mountain rams [bighorn, _Ovis montana_], which the
doctor and Brown had killed and left in the road. Skinned it with
horns, etc. At night ascended a mountain, and discovered a prairie
ahead about eight miles, the news of which gave great joy to the
party.
_Jan. 2d._ Labored all day, but made only one mile; many of our horses
were much wounded in falling on the rocks. Provision growing short,
left Stoute and Miller with two loads, to come on with a sled on the
ice, which was on the water in some of the coves. Finding it almost
impossible to proceed any further with the horses by the bed of the
river, ascended the mountain and immediately after were again obliged
to descend an almost perpendicular side of the mountain; in effecting
which, one horse fell down the precipice, and bruised himself so
miserably that I conceived it mercy to cause the poor animal to be
shot. Many others were nearly killed with falls received. Left two
more men with loads, and tools to make sleds. The two men we had left
in the morning had passed us.
_Jan. 3d._ Left two more men to make sleds and come on. We pursued the
river, and with great difficulty made six miles by frequently cutting
roads on the ice, and covering it with earth, in order to go round
precipices, etc. The men left in the morning encamped with us at
night; but those of the day before we saw nothing of. This day two of
the horses became senseless from the bruises received on the rocks,
and were obliged to be left.[III-25]
_Sunday, Jan. 4th._ We made the prairie about three o'clock, when I
detached Baroney and two soldiers with the horses, in order to find
some practicable way for them to get out of the mountains light. I
then divided the others into two parties of two men each, to make
sleds and bring on the baggage. I determined to continue down the
river alone, until I could kill some sustenance, and find the two men
who left us on the 2d inst., or the doctor and his companion; for we
had no provision, and everyone had then to depend on his own exertion
for safety and subsistence. Thus we were divided into eight different
parties, viz.: 1st. The doctor and his companion; 2d. The two men with
the first sled; 3d. The interpreter and the two men with the horses;
4th. Myself; 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, two men each, with sleds at different
distances; all of whom, except the last, had orders, if they killed
any game, to secure some part in a conspicuous place, for their
companions in the rear. I marched about five miles on the river, which
was one continued fall through a narrow channel, with immense cliffs
on both sides.[III-26] Near night I came to a place where the rocks
were perpendicular on both sides, and there was no ice, except a
narrow border on the water. I began to look about, in order to
discover which way the doctor and his companion had managed, and to
find what had become of the two lads with the first sled, when I
discovered one of the latter climbing up the side of the rocks. I
called to him; he and his companion immediately joined me. They said
they had not known whether we were before or in the rear; that they
had eaten nothing for the last two days, and that this night they had
intended to have boiled a deer-skin to subsist on. We at length
discovered a narrow ravine, where was the trace of the doctor and his
companion; as the water had run down it and frozen hard, it was one
continuous sheet of ice. We ascended it with the utmost difficulty and
danger, loaded with the baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we
found an encampment of the doctor, and where they had killed a deer;
but they had now no meat. He afterward informed me that they had left
the greatest part of it hanging on a tree, but supposed the birds had
destroyed it. I left the boys to bring up the remainder of the
baggage, and went out in order to kill some subsistence; wounded a
deer, but the darkness of the night approaching, could not find him. I
returned hungry, weary, and dry, and had only snow to supply the calls
of nature. Distance 8 miles.
_Jan. 5th._ I went out in the morning to hunt, while the two lads were
bringing up some of their loads still left at the foot of the
mountain. Wounded several deer, but was surprised to find I killed
none. On examining my gun discovered her bent, owing, as I suppose, to
some fall on the ice or rocks; shortly afterward received a fall on
the side of a hill, which broke her off by the breach. This put me
into _désepoir_, as I calculated on it as my grandest resource for the
great part of my party; returned to my companions sorely fatigued and
hungry. I then took a double-barreled gun and left them, with
assurances that the first animal I killed, I would return with part
for their relief. About ten o'clock rose [that is, I surmounted] the
highest summit of the [Noonan] mountain, when the unbounded spaces of
the prairie again presented themselves to my view; and from some
distant peaks I immediately recognized it to be the outlet of the
Arkansaw, which we had left nearly one month since. This was a great
mortification; but at the same time I consoled myself with the
knowledge I had acquired of the sources of La Platte and Arkansaw
rivers, with the river to the northwest, supposed to be the Pierre
Jaun [Roche Jaune, Yellowstone[III-27]], which scarcely any person but
a madman would ever purposely attempt to trace further than the
entrance of those mountains which had hitherto secured their sources
from the scrutinizing eye of civilized man.
I arrived at the foot of the mountain and bank of the river, in the
afternoon, and at the same time discovered, on the other shore,
Baroney with the horses; they had found quite an eligible pass
[through Webster Park], and had killed one buffalo and some deer. We
proceeded to our old camp [Cañon City], which we had left the 10th of
December, and reoccupied it. Saw the traces of the doctor and his
companion, but could not discover their retreat. This was my
birth-day, and most fervently did I hope never to pass another so
miserably. Fired a gun off as a signal for the doctor. Distance seven
miles.
_Jan. 6th._ Dispatched the two soldiers back with some provision to
meet the first lads and assist them on, and sent the interpreter
hunting. About eight o'clock the doctor came in, having seen some of
the men. He had been confined to the camp for one or two days, by a
vertigo which proceeded from some berries he had eaten on the
mountains. His companion brought down six deer, which they had at
their camp; thus we again began to be out of danger of starving. In
the afternoon some of the men arrived, and part were immediately
returned with provisions, etc. Killed three deer.
_Jan. 7th._ Sent more men back to assist in the rear, and to carry the
poor fellows provisions; at the same time kept Baroney and one man
hunting. Killed three deer.
_Jan. 8th._ Some of the different parties arrived. Put one man to
stocking my rifle; others were sent back to assist up the rear. Killed
two deer.
_Jan. 9th._ The whole party were once more joined together, when we
felt comparatively happy, notwithstanding the great mortification I
experienced at having been so egregiously deceived as to the Red
river. I now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as any idea of
services at that time from my horses was entirely preposterous. After
various plans formed and rejected, and the most mature deliberation,
I determined to build a small place for defense and deposit;[III-28]
leave part of the baggage, horses, my interpreter, and one man
[Smith]; and with the balance, our packs of Indian presents,
ammunition, tools, etc., on our backs, cross the mountains on foot,
find the Red river, and then send back a party to conduct the horses
and baggage by the most eligible route we could discover; by which
time the horses would be so recovered as to be able to endure the
fatigues of the march. In consequence of this determination, some were
put to constructing the blockhouse, some to hunting, some to taking
care of horses, etc. I myself made preparations to pursue a course of
observations which would enable me to ascertain the latitude and
longitude of this situation, which I conceived to be an important one.
Killed three deer.
_Jan. 10th._ Killed five deer. Took equal altitudes and angular
distances of two stars, etc., but do not now recollect which. Killed
three deer.
_Sunday, Jan. 11th._ Ascertained the latitude and took the angular
distances of some stars. Killed four deer.
_Jan. 12th._ Prepared the baggage for a march by separating it, etc.
Observations continued.
_Jan. 13th._ Weighed out each man's pack. This day I obtained the
angle between sun and moon, which I conceived the most correct way I
possessed of ascertaining the longitude, as an immersion and emersion
of Jupiter's satellites could not be obtained. Killed four deer.
_Jan. 14th._ We marched our party, consisting of 18 [read 12][III-29]
soldiers, the doctor, and myself, each of us carrying 45 pounds and as
much provision as he thought proper, which, with arms, etc., made on
an average 70 pounds. Left Baroney and one man, Patrick Smith [in the
blockhouse at Cañon City].
We crossed the first ridge, leaving the main branch of the river to
the north of us, and struck on the south fork [Grape creek], on which
we encamped, intending to pursue it through the mountains, as its
course was more southerly. Distance 13 miles.[III-30]
_Jan. 15th._ Followed up this branch and passed the main ridge of what
I term the Blue [now Wet] mountains. Halted early. The doctor, myself,
and one hunter went out with our guns; each killed a deer, and brought
them into camp. Distance 19 miles.[III-31]
_Jan. 16th._ Marched up the [Grape] creek all day. Encamped early, as
it was snowing. I went out to hunt, but killed nothing. Deer on the
hill; the [Wet] mountains lessening. Distance 18 miles.[III-32]
_Jan. 17th._ Marched about four miles, when the great White
mountain[III-33] presented itself before us, in sight of which we had
been for more than one month, and through which we supposed lay the
long-sought Red river. We now left the [Grape] creek on the north of
us, and bore away more east, to a low place in the [Wet] mountains.
About sunset we came to the edge of a prairie which bounded the foot
of the [Wet] mountains. As there was no wood or water where we were,
and the woods from the skirts of the [Sangre de Cristo] mountains
appeared to be at no great distance, I thought proper to march for it;
in the middle of said prairie crossed the creek [recrossed Grape creek
from N. E. to S. W.], which now bore east. Here we all got our feet
wet. The night commenced extremely cold, when we halted at the woods
at eight o'clock, for encampment. After getting fires made, we
discovered that the feet of nine of our men were frozen; and, to add
to this misfortune, both of those whom we called hunters were among
the number. This night we had no provision. Reaumer's [Réaumur's]
thermometer stood at 18½° below zero. Distance 28 miles.[III-34]
_Sunday, Jan. 18th._ We started two of the men least injured; the
doctor and myself, who fortunately were untouched by the frost, also
went out to hunt something to preserve existence. Near evening we
wounded a buffalo with three balls, but had the mortification to see
him run off notwithstanding. We concluded it was useless to go home to
add to the general gloom, and went amongst some rocks, where we
encamped and sat up all night; from the intense cold it was impossible
to sleep. Hungry and without cover.
_Jan. 19th._ We again took the field, and after crawling about one
mile in the snow, got to shoot eight times among a gang of buffalo; we
could plainly perceive two or three to be badly wounded, but by
accident they took the wind of us, and to our great mortification all
were able to run off. By this time I had become extremely weak and
faint, it being the fourth day since we had received sustenance, all
of which we were marching hard, and the last night had scarcely closed
our eyes to sleep. We were inclining our course to a point of woods,
determined to remain absent and die by ourselves rather than return to
our camp and behold the misery of our poor lads, when we discovered a
gang of buffalo coming along at some distance. With great exertions I
made out to run and place myself behind some cedars. By the greatest
of good luck, the first shot stopped one, which we killed in three
more shots; and by the dusk had cut each of us a heavy load, with
which we determined immediately to proceed to the camp, in order to
relieve the anxiety of our men and carry the poor fellows some food.
We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I threw my load down,
it was with difficulty I prevented myself from falling; I was attacked
with a giddiness of the head, which lasted for some minutes. On the
countenances of the men was not a frown, nor a desponding eye; all
seemed happy to hail their officer and companions, yet not a mouthful
had they eaten for four days. On demanding what were their thoughts,
the sergeant replied that on the morrow the most robust had determined
to set out in search of us and not return unless they found us, or
killed something to preserve the lives of their starving companions.
_Jan. 20th._ The doctor and all the men able to march; returned to the
buffalo to bring in the balance of the meat. On examining the feet of
those who were frozen we found it impossible for two of them [Sparks
and Dougherty] to proceed, and two others only without loads, by the
help of a stick. One of the former was my waiter, a promising young
lad of twenty, whose feet were so badly frozen as to present every
probability of losing them. The doctor and party returned toward
evening, loaded with the buffalo meat.
_Jan. 21st._ This day we separated the four loads which we intended to
leave, and took them some distance from camp, where we secured them. I
went up to the foot of the mountain to see what prospect there was of
being able to cross it, but had not more than fairly arrived at its
base when I found the snow four or five feet deep; this obliged me to
determine to proceed and _côtoyer_ the mountain [keep alongside the
base of the Sangre de Cristo range] to the south, where it appeared
lower, until we found a place where we could cross.
_Jan. 22d._ I furnished the two poor lads who were to remain with
ammunition, made use of every argument in my power to encourage them
to have fortitude to resist their fate, and gave them assurance of my
sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but not without tears.
We pursued our march, taking merely sufficient provisions for one
meal, in order to leave as much as possible for the two poor fellows
who remained. They were John Sparks and Thomas Dougherty. We went on
eight miles and encamped on a little creek,[III-35] which came down
from the mountains. At three o'clock went out to hunt, but killed
nothing. Little snow.
_Jan. 23d._ After showing the sergeant a point to steer for, the
doctor and myself proceeded on ahead in hopes to kill something, as we
were again without victuals. About one o'clock it commenced snowing
very hard; we retreated to a small copse of pine, where we constructed
a camp to shelter us; and, as it was time the party should arrive, we
sallied forth to search for them. We separated, and had not marched
more than one or two miles, when I found it impossible to keep any
course without the compass continually in my hand, and then was not
able to see more than 10 yards. I began to perceive the difficulty
even of finding the way back to our camp; and I can scarcely conceive
a more dreadful idea than remaining on the wild, where inevitable
death must have ensued. It was with great pleasure I again reached the
camp, where I found the doctor had arrived before me. We lay down and
strove to dissipate the ideas of hunger and misery by thoughts of our
far distant homes and relatives. Distance eight miles.[III-36]
_Jan. 24th._ We sallied out in the morning, and shortly after
perceived our little band marching through the snow about two and a
half feet deep, silent and with downcast countenances. We joined them
and learned that, finding the snow to fall so thickly that it was
impossible to proceed, they had encamped about one o'clock the
preceding day. As I found all the buffalo had quit the plains, I
determined to attempt the traverse of the mountain, in which we
persevered until the snow became so deep that it was impossible to
proceed; when I again turned my face to the plain, and for the first
time in the voyage found myself discouraged.
This was also the first time I heard a man express himself in a
seditious manner; he [John Brown] exclaimed that "it was more than
human nature could bear, to march three days without sustenance,
through snows three feet deep, and carry burdens only fit for horses,"
etc. As I knew very well the fidelity and attachment of the majority
of the men, and even of this poor fellow (only he could not endure
fasting), and that it was in my power to chastise him when I thought
proper, I passed it unnoticed for the moment, determined to notice it
at a more auspicious time.
We dragged our weary and emaciated limbs along until about ten
o'clock. The doctor and myself, who were in advance, discovered some
buffalo on the plain, when we left our loads on the snow, and gave
orders to proceed to the nearest woods to encamp. We went in pursuit
of the buffalo, which were on the move. The doctor, who was then less
reduced than myself, ran and got behind a hill and shot one down,
which stopped the remainder. We crawled up to the dead one and shot
from him as many as 12 or 14 times among the gang, when they removed
out of sight. We then proceeded to butcher the one we had shot; and
after procuring each of us a load of the meat, we marched for the
camp, the smoke of which was in view. We arrived at the camp, to the
great joy of our brave lads, who immediately feasted sumptuously.
After our repast I sent for the lad who had presumed to speak
discontentedly in the course of the day, and addressed him to the
following effect: "Brown, you this day presumed to make use of
language which was seditious, and mutinous. I then passed it over,
pitying your situation, and attributing it to your distress rather
than your inclination to sow discontent among the party. Had I
reserved provisions for ourselves, while you were starving; had we
been marching along light and at our ease, while you were weighed down
with your burden; then you would have had some pretext for your
observations. But when we were equally hungry, weary, emaciated, and
charged with burdens which I believe my natural strength is less able
to bear than any man's in the party; when we were always foremost in
breaking the road, in reconnoitering, and in the fatigues of the
chase, it was the height of ingratitude in you to let an expression
escape which was indicative of discontent. Your ready compliance and
firm perseverance I had reason to expect, as the leader of men and my
companions in miseries and dangers. But your duty as a soldier called
on your obedience to your officer, and a prohibition of such language,
which for this time I will pardon; but assure you, should it ever be
repeated, by instant death will I avenge your ingratitude and punish
your disobedience. I take this opportunity likewise to assure you,
soldiers generally, of my thanks for the obedience, perseverance, and
ready contempt of every danger which you have generally evinced. I
assure you nothing shall be wanting, on my part, to procure you the
rewards of our government and the gratitude of your countrymen." They
all appeared very much affected, and retired with assurances of
perseverance in duty, etc. Distance nine miles.[III-37]
_Sunday, Jan. 25th._ I determined never again to march with so little
provision on hand; as, had the storm continued one day longer, the
animals would have continued in the mountains; we should have become
so weak as not to be able to hunt, and of course have perished. The
doctor went out with the boys, and they secured three of the buffalo;
we commenced bringing in the meat, at which we continued all day.
_Jan. 26th._ Got in all the meat and dried it on a scaffold, intending
to take as much as possible along and leave one of my frozen lads with
the balance, as a deposit for the parties who might return for their
baggage, etc., on their way back to Baroney's camp.
_Jan. 27th._ We marched, determined to cross the [Sangre de Cristo]
mountains, leaving Menaugh[III-38] encamped with our deposit. After a
bad day's march through snows, in some places three feet deep, we
struck on a brook which led west. This I followed down, and shortly
came to a small stream [Sand creek], running west, which we hailed
with fervency as the waters of Red river. Saw some sign of elk.
Distance 14 miles.[III-39]
_Jan. 28th._ Followed down the ravine and discovered after some time
that there had been a road cut out; on many trees were various
hieroglyphics painted. After marching some miles, we discovered
through the lengthy vista, at a distance, another [the San Juan]
chain of mountains; and nearer by, at the foot of the White mountains
which we were then descending, sandy hills [the Dunes]. We marched on
the outlet of the mountains, left the sandy desert to our right, and
kept down between it and the mountain. When we encamped, I ascended
one of the largest hills of sand, and with my glass could discover a
large river [the Rio Grande], flowing nearly N. by W. and S. by E.,
through the plain [San Luis valley]. This river came out of the third
chain of mountains, about N. 75° W.; the prairie between the two
mountains bore nearly N. and S. I returned to camp with the news of my
discovery. The sand-hills extended up and down the foot of the White
mountains about 15 miles, and appeared to be about five miles in
width. Their appearance was exactly that of the sea in a storm, except
as to color, not the least sign of vegetation existing thereon.
Distance 15 miles.[III-40]
_Jan. 29th._ Finding the distance too great to attempt crossing
immediately to the river, in a direct line, we marched obliquely to a
copse of woods, which made down a considerable distance from the
mountains. Saw sign of horses. Distance 17 miles.[III-41]
_Jan. 30th._ We marched hard, and arrived in the evening on the banks
of the Rio del Norte, then supposed to be Red river. Distance 24
miles.[III-42]
_Jan. 31st._ As there was no timber here we determined on descending
until we found timber, in order to make transports to descend the
river with, where we might establish a position that four or five
might defend against the insolence, cupidity, and barbarity of the
savages, while the others returned to assist the poor fellows who had
been left behind at different points. We descended 18 [13] miles, when
we met a large west branch [Rio Conejos], emptying into the main
stream, about five miles up which branch we took our station. Killed
one deer. Distance 18 miles.[III-43]
_Sunday, Feb. 1st._ Laid out the place for our works, and went out
hunting.
_Feb. 2d._ The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and with great
difficulty, by night, at the distance of seven or eight miles from
camp, killed one deer, which we carried in.
_Feb. 3d._ Spent in reading, etc.
_Feb. 4th._ Went out hunting, but could not kill anything. One of my
men killed a deer.
_Feb. 5th._ The doctor and myself went out to hunt. After chasing
some deer for several hours, without success, we ascended a high hill
which lay south of our camp, whence we had a view of all the prairies
and rivers to the north of us. It was at the same time one of the most
sublime and beautiful inland prospects ever presented to the eyes of
man. The prairie, lying nearly north and south, was probably 60 miles
by 45. The main river, bursting out of the western mountain, and
meeting from the northeast a large branch [San Luis creek] which
divides the chain of mountains, proceeds down the prairie, making
many large and beautiful islands, one of which I judge contains
100,000 acres of land, all meadow ground, covered with innumerable
herds of deer. About six miles from the mountains [San Luis hills]
which cross the prairie at the south end, a branch [Alamosa or La Jara
creek] of 12 steps wide pays its tribute to the main stream from the
west course. Due W. 12°. N. 75°. W. 6° [_sic_]. Four miles below is a
stream [Trinchera creek] of the same size, which enters on the east
and up which was a large road; its general course is N. 65° E. From
the entrance of this was about three miles, down to the junction of
the west fork [Rio Conejos], which waters the foot of the hill on the
north, while the main river wound along its meanders on the east. In
short, this view combined the sublime and the beautiful. The great and
lofty mountains, covered with eternal snows, seemed to surround the
luxuriant vale, crowned with perennial flowers, like a terrestrial
paradise shut out from the view of man.
_Feb. 6th._ The doctor, having some pecuniary demands in the province
of New Mexico, conceived this to be the most eligible point for him to
go in, and return previous to all my party having joined me from the
Arkansaw, and that I was prepared to descend to Nachitoches. He
therefore this day made his preparations for marching to-morrow. I
went out hunting, and killed at three miles' distance a deer which,
with great difficulty, I brought in whole. We continued to go on with
the works of our stockade or breastwork, which was situated on the
north bank of the west branch, about five miles from its junction with
the main river, and was on a strong plan.
The stockade was situated in a small prairie on the west fork [Conejos
river] of the Rio [Grande] del Norte. The south flank joined the edge
of the river, which at that place was not fordable; the east and west
curtains were flanked by bastions in the northeast and northwest
angles, which likewise flanked the curtain of the north side of the
work. The stockade from the center of the angle of the bastions was
36 feet square. Heavy cottonwood logs, about two feet in diameter,
were laid up all round about six feet, after which lighter ones, until
we made it 12 feet in height; these logs were joined together by a lap
of about two feet at each end. We then dug a small ditch on the inside
all round, making it perpendicular on the internal side and sloping
next the work. In this ditch we planted small stakes, about six inches
in diameter, sharpened at the upper end to a nice point, and slanted
them over the top of the work, giving them about 2½ feet projection.
We then secured them above and below in that position, which formed a
small pointed frise, which must have been removed before the works
could have been scaled. Lastly, we had dug a ditch round the whole,
four feet wide, and let the water in all round. The earth taken out,
being thrown against the work, formed an excellent rampart against
small-arms, three or four feet high. Our mode of getting in was to
crawl over the ditch on a plank, and into a small hole sunk below the
level of the work near the river for that purpose. Our port-holes were
pierced about eight feet from the ground, and a platform was prepared
to shoot from. Thus fortified, I should not have had the least
hesitation of putting the 100 Spanish horse at defiance until the
first or second night, and then to have made our escape under cover of
the darkness; or made a sally and dispersed them, when resting under a
full confidence of our being panic-struck by their numbers and force.
_Feb. 7th._ The doctor marched alone for Santa Fe; and as it was
uncertain whether this gentleman would ever join me again, I at that
time committed to paper the following testimonial of respect for his
good qualities, which I do not, at this time, feel any disposition to
efface. He has had the benefit of a liberal education, without having
spent his time, as too many of our gentlemen do in colleges, in
skimming on the surfaces of sciences, without ever endeavoring to make
themselves masters of the solid foundations. Robinson studied and
reasoned; with these qualifications he possessed a liberality of mind
too great ever to reject an hypothesis because it was not agreeable to
the dogmas of the schools; or adopt it because it had all the eclat of
novelty. His soul could conceive great actions, and his hand was ready
to achieve them; in short, it may truly be said that nothing was above
his genius, nor anything so minute that he conceived it entirely
unworthy of consideration. As a gentleman and companion in dangers,
difficulties, and hardships, I in particular, and the expedition
generally, owe much to his exertions.
The demands which Dr. Robinson had on persons in New Mexico, although
legitimate, were in some degree spurious _in his hands_.[III-44] The
circumstances were as follows: In the year 1804, William Morrison,
Esq., an enterprising merchant of Kaskaskias, sent a man by the name
of Babtiste La Lande, a Creole of the country, up the Missouri and La
Platte, directing him if possible to push into Santa Fe. He sent in
Indians, and the Spaniards came out with horses and carried him and
his goods into the province. Finding that he sold the goods high, had
land offered him, and the women kind, he concluded to expatriate
himself and convert the property of Morrison to his own benefit. When
I was about to sail, Morrison, conceiving that it was possible that I
might meet some Spanish factors on the Red river, intrusted me with
the claim, in order, if they were acquainted with La Lande, I might
negotiate the thing with some of them. When on the frontiers, the idea
suggested itself to us of making this claim a pretext for Robinson to
visit Santa Fe. We therefore gave it the proper appearance, and he
marched for that place. Our views were to gain a knowledge of the
country, the prospect of trade, force, etc.; while, at the same time,
our treaties with Spain guaranteed to him, as a citizen of the United
States, the right of seeking the recovery of all just debts or demands
before the legal and authorized tribunals of the country, as a
franchised inhabitant of the same, as specified in the 22d article of
said treaty.
In the evening I dispatched Corporal Jackson with four men, to recross
the mountains, in order to bring in the baggage left with the frozen
lads, and to see if they were yet able to come on. This detachment
left me with four men only, two of whom had their feet frozen; they
were employed in finishing the stockade, and myself to support them by
the chase.
_Sunday, Feb. 8th._ Refreshing my memory as to the French grammar, and
overseeing the works.
_Feb. 9th._ Hunting, etc.
_Feb. 10th._ Read and labored at our works.
_Feb. 11th._ Hunting. Killed three deer.
_Feb. 12th._ Studying.
_Feb. 13th._ Hunting. Killed two deer.
_Feb. 14th._ Crossed the [Conejos] river and examined the numerous
springs which issued from the foot of the hill, opposite our camp.
These were so strongly impregnated with mineral qualities, as not only
to keep clear of ice previous to their joining the main branch, but to
keep open the west fork until its junction with the main river and for
a few miles afterward, while all the other branches in the
neighborhood were bound in the adamantine chains of winter.
_Sunday, Feb. 15th._ Reading, etc. Works going on.
_Feb. 16th._ I took one man and went out hunting; about six miles from
the post, shot and wounded a deer.
Immediately afterward I discovered two horsemen rising the summit of a
hill, about half a mile to our right. As my orders were to avoid
giving alarm or offense to the Spanish government of New Mexico, I
endeavored to avoid them at first; but when we attempted to retreat,
they pursued us at full charge, flourishing their lances; and when we
advanced, they would retire as fast as their horses could carry them.
Seeing this, we got in a small ravine, in hopes to decoy them near
enough to oblige them to come to a parley; which happened agreeably to
our desires, as they came on, hunting us with great caution. We
suffered them to get within 40 yards--where we had allured them; but
they were about running off again, when I ordered the soldier to lay
down his arms and walk toward them, at the same time standing ready
with my rifle to kill either who should lift an arm in an hostile
manner. I then hollowed to them that we were "Americans," and
"friends," which were almost the only two words I knew in the Spanish
language; when, with great signs of fear, they came up, and proved to
be a Spanish dragoon and a civilized Indian, armed after their manner,
of which we see a description in the Essai Militaire.[III-45] We were
jealous of our arms on both sides, and acted with great precaution.
They informed me that this was the fourth day since they had left
Santa Fe; that Robinson had arrived there, and been received with
great kindness by the governor. As I knew them to be spies, I thought
proper to inform them merely that I was about to descend the river to
Nachitoches. We sat on the ground a long time, till, finding they were
determined not to leave us, we rose and bade them adieu. But they
demanded where our camp was; and, finding they were not about to leave
us, I thought it most proper to take them with me, thinking we were on
Red river, and of course in the territory claimed by the United
States.[III-46]
We took the road to my fort, and as they were on horseback, they
traveled rather faster than myself; they were halted by the sentinel,
and immediately retreated much surprised. When I came up, I took them
in, and then explained to them, as well as possible, my intention of
descending the river to Nachitoches; but at the same time told them
that if Governor Allencaster would send out an officer with an
interpreter who spoke French or English, I would do myself the
pleasure to give his Excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to my
intentions in coming on his frontiers. They informed me that on the
second day they would be in Santa Fe, but were careful never to
suggest an idea of my being on the Rio del Norte. As they concluded, I
did not think as I spoke. They were very anxious to ascertain our
numbers, etc.; seeing only five men here, they could not believe we
came without horses. To this I did not think proper to give them any
satisfaction, giving them to understand we were in many parties, etc.
_Feb. 17th._ In the morning, our two Spanish visitors departed, after
I had made them some trifling presents, with which they seemed highly
delighted. After their departure, we commenced working at our little
stockade, as I thought it probable the governor might dispute my right
to descend the Red river, and send out Indians, or some light party,
to attack us; I therefore determined to be as much prepared to receive
them as possible.
This evening the corporal and three of the [four] men arrived, who had
been sent back to the camp of the frozen lads. They informed me that
two men would arrive the next day, one of whom was Menaugh, who had
been left alone on the 27th of January [and the other of whom was the
fourth one of the soldiers who had gone as a relief-party under
Corporal Jackson]; but that the other two, Dougherty and Sparks, were
unable to come in. They said that they [Dougherty and Sparks] had
hailed them [the relief-party] with tears of joy, and were in despair
when they again left them, with the chance of never seeing them more.
They sent on to me some of the bones taken out of their feet, and
conjured me, by all that was sacred, not to leave them to perish far
from the civilized world. Ah! little did they know my heart, if they
could suspect me of conduct so ungenerous. No! before they should be
left, I would for months have carried the end of a litter, in order to
secure them the happiness of once more seeing their native homes, and
being received in the bosom of a grateful country. Thus those poor
lads are to be invalids for life, made infirm at the commencement of
manhood and in the prime of their course, doomed to pass the
remainder of their days in misery and want. For what is the pension?
Not sufficient to buy a man his victuals. What man would even lose the
smallest of his joints for such a trifling pittance?
_Feb. 18th._ The other two boys [Menaugh and the fourth member of the
relief-party] arrived. In the evening I ordered the sergeant [Meek]
and one man [Miller] to prepare to march to-morrow for the [stockade
on the] Arkansaw, where we had left our interpreter [Vasquez, with
Patrick Smith], horses, etc., to conduct them on, and on his return to
bring the two lads [Dougherty and Sparks] who were still in the
mountains.
_Feb. 19th._ Sergeant William E. Meek marched with one man, whose name
was Theodore Miller, and I took three other men to accompany him some
distance, in order to point out to him a pass[III-47] in the mountain
which I conceived more eligible for horses than the one by which we
came. I must here remark the effect of habit, discipline, and example,
in two soldiers soliciting a command of more than 180 miles, over two
great ridges of mountains covered with snow, inhabited by bands of
unknown savages, in the interest of a nation with which we were not on
the best understanding. To perform this journey, each had about ten
pounds of venison. Only let me ask, What would our soldiers generally
think, on being ordered on such a tour, thus equipped? Yet those men
volunteered it with others, and were chosen; for which they thought
themselves highly honored. We accompanied them about six miles, and
pointed out the pass alluded to, in a particular manner. But the
corporal afterward reported that the new one which I obliged him to
take was impassable, he having been three days in snows nearly middle
deep.
We then separated and, having killed a deer, sent one of the men back
to the fort with it. With the other two, I kept on my exploring trip
down the river on the east side, at some leagues from its banks,
intending to return up it. At nine o'clock at night we encamped on a
small creek[III-48] which emptied into the river from a nearly due
east course.
_Feb. 20th._ We marched down the river for a few hours; but, seeing no
fresh sign of persons, or any other object to attract our attention,
took up our route for the fort. Discovered the sign of horses and men
on the shore. We arrived after night and found all well.
_Feb. 21st._ As I was suspicious that possibly some party of Indians
might be harboring round, I gave particular orders to my men, if they
discovered any people, to endeavor to retreat undiscovered; but if
not, never to run, and not to suffer themselves to be disarmed or
taken prisoners, but conduct whatever party discovered them, if they
could not escape, to the fort.
_Sunday, Feb. 22d._ As I began to think it was time we received a
visit from the Spaniards or their emissaries, I established a lookout
guard on the top of a hill all day, and at night a sentinel in a
bastion on the land side. Studying, reading, and working at our ditch
to bring the river round the works.
_Feb. 23d._ Reading, writing, etc.; the men at their usual work.
_Feb. 24th._ Took one man with me and went out on the Spanish road
hunting; killed one deer and wounded several others. As we were a
great distance from the fort, we encamped near the road all night. Saw
several signs of horses.
_Feb. 25th._ Killed two more deer, when we marched for our post. Took
all three of the deer with us, and arrived about nine o'clock at
night, as much fatigued as ever I was in my life. Our arrival
dissipated the anxiety of the men, who began to be apprehensive we
were taken or killed by some of the savages.
_Feb. 26th._ In the morning was apprized of the approach of strangers
by the report of a gun from my lookout guard. Immediately afterward
two Frenchmen arrived. My sentinel halted them, and ordered them to be
admitted, after some questions. They informed me that his Excellency,
Governor [Joachin R.] Allencaster, had heard it was the intention of
the Utah Indians to attack me; had detached an officer with 50
dragoons to come out and protect me; and that they would be here in
two days. To this I made no reply: but shortly after the party came in
sight, to the number, as I afterward learned, of 50 dragoons and 50
mounted militia of the province, armed in the same manner with lances,
escopates,[III-49] and pistols. My sentinel halted them at the
distance of about 50 yards. I had the works manned. I thought it most
proper to send out the two Frenchmen to inform the commanding officer
that it was my request he should leave his party in the small copse of
woods where he was halted, and that I would meet him myself in the
prairie in which our work was situated. This I did, with my sword on
me only. I was then introduced to Don Ignatio Saltelo and Don
Bartholemew Fernandez, two lieutenants, the former the commandant of
the party. I gave them an invitation to enter the works, but requested
the troops might remain where they were. This was complied with. When
they came round and discovered that to enter they were obliged to
crawl on their bellies over a small draw-bridge, they appeared
astonished, but entered without further hesitation.
We first breakfasted on deer, meal, goose, and some biscuit which the
civilized Indian who came out as a spy had brought me. After breakfast
the commanding officer addressed me as follows:
"Sir, the governor of New Mexico, being informed you had missed your
route, ordered me to offer you, in his name, mules, horses, money, or
whatever you might stand in need of to conduct you to the head of Red
river; as from Santa Fe to where it is sometimes navigable is eight
days' journey, and we have guides and the routes of the traders to
conduct us."
"What," said I, interrupting him, "is not this the Red river?"
"No, Sir! The Rio del Norte."
I immediately ordered my flag to be taken down and rolled up, feeling
how sensibly I had committed myself in entering their territory, and
conscious that they must have positive orders to take me in.