ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE THROUGH KANSAS AND
COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK, OCT. 1ST-NOV. 30TH, 1806.
Wednesday, Oct. 1st. Paid a visit to town and had a very long
conversation with the chief, who urged everything in his power to
induce us to turn back. Finally, he very candidly told us that the
Spaniards wished to have gone further into our country, but he induced
them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him and he wished
us to do the same; that he had promised the Spaniards to act as he now
did, and that we must proceed no further, or he must stop us by force
of arms. My reply was, "that I had been sent out by our great father
to explore the western country, to visit all his red children, to make
peace between them, and turn them from shedding blood; that he might
see how I had caused the Osage and Kans to meet to smoke the pipe of
peace together, and take each other by the hand like brothers; that as
yet my road had been smooth, with a blue sky over our heads. I had not
seen any blood in our path; but he must know that the young warriors
of his great American father were not women, to be turned back by
words; that I should therefore proceed, and if he thought proper to
stop me, he could attempt it; but we were men, well armed, and would
sell our lives at a dear rate to his nation; that we knew our great
father would send his young warriors there to gather our bones and
revenge our deaths on his people, when our spirits would rejoice in
hearing our exploits sung in the war-songs of our chiefs." I then left
his lodge and returned to camp, in considerable perturbation of mind.
_Oct. 2d._ We received advice from our Kans that the chief had given
publicity to his idea of stopping us by force of arms, which gave
serious reflections to me, and was productive of many singular
expressions from my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same
time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to trade for horses, but
could not succeed. In the night we were alarmed by some savages coming
near our camp at full speed; but they retreated equally rapidly, on
being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. This created some
degree of indignation in my little band, as we had noticed that all
the day had passed without any traders presenting themselves, which
appeared as if all intercourse was interdicted. I wrote to the
secretary at war, the general, etc.
_Oct. 3d._ The intercourse again commenced. Traded for some horses,
and wrote for my express.
_Oct. 4th._ Two French traders arrived at the village in order to
procure horses to transport their goods from the Missouri to the
village. They gave us information that Captains Lewis and Clark,[II-1]
with all their people, had descended the river to St. Louis; this
diffused general joy through our party. Our trade for horses advanced
none this day.
_Sunday, Oct. 5th._ Buying horses. Preparing to march, and finishing
my letters.
_Oct. 6th._ Marched my express.[II-2] Purchasing horses and preparing
to march on the morrow.
_Oct. 7th._ In the morning we found two of our newly purchased horses
missing. Sent in search of them; the Indians brought in one pretty
early. Struck our tents and commenced loading our horses. Finding
there was no probability of our obtaining the other lost one, we
marched at 2 p. m.; and as the chief had threatened to stop us by
force of arms, we made every arrangement to make him pay as dearly for
the attempt as possible. The party was kept compact, and marched by a
road round the village, in order that, if attacked, the savages would
not have their houses to fly to for cover. I had given orders not to
fire until within five or six paces, and then to charge with the
bayonet and saber, when I believe it would have cost them at least 100
men to have exterminated us, which would have been necessary. The
village appeared all to be in motion. I galloped up to the lodge of
the chief, attended by my interpreter and one soldier, but soon saw
there was no serious attempt to be made, although many young men were
walking about with their bows, arrows, guns, and lances. After
speaking to the chief with apparent indifference, I told him that I
calculated on his justice in obtaining the horse, and that I should
leave a man until the next day at twelve o'clock to bring him out. We
then joined the party and pursued our route.
When I was once on the summit of the hill which overlooks the village,
I felt my mind relieved from a heavy burden; yet all the evil I wished
the Pawnees was that I might be the instrument, in the hands of our
government, to open their ears and eyes with a strong hand, to
convince them of our power.
Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, 18 soldiers, one
interpreter, three Osage men, and one woman, making 25 warriors. We
marched out and encamped on a small branch [of Rock creek], distant
seven miles, on the same route we came in.[II-3] Rain in the night.
_Oct. 8th._ I conceived it best to send Baroney back to the village
with a present, to be offered for our horse, the chief having
suggested the propriety of this measure; he met his son and the horse
with Sparks. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to the
place where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they left the
Pawnee village. Their encampment was circular, having only small fires
round the circle to cook by. We counted 59 fires; now if we allow six
men to each fire, they must have been 354 in number.[II-4] We encamped
on a large branch of the second [Solomon's] fork of the Kans river.
Distance 18 miles.[II-5]
_Oct. 9th._ Marched at eight o'clock, being detained until that time
by our horses being at a great distance. At eleven o'clock we found
the forks of the Spanish and Pawnee roads, and when we halted at
twelve o'clock, we were overtaken by the second chief, Iskatappe, and
the American chief with one-third of the village. They presented us
with a piece of bear-meat.
When we were about to march, we discovered that the dirk of the doctor
had been stolen from behind the saddle. After marching the men, the
doctor and myself, with the interpreter, went to the chief and
demanded that he should cause a search to be made; it was done, but
when the dirk was found, the possessor asserted that he had found it
on the road. I told him that he did not speak the truth, and informed
the chief that we never suffered a thing of ever so little value to be
taken without liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his
men, who began to encircle us around, and Lieutenant Wilkinson with
the troops had gained half a mile on the road. The Indian demanded a
knife before he would give it up; but as we refused to give any, the
chief took one from his belt and gave him, took the dirk and presented
it to the doctor, who immediately returned it to the chief as a
present, desired Baroney to inform him he now saw it was not the value
of the article but the act we despised, and then galloped off.
In about a mile we discovered a herd of elk, which we pursued; they
took back in sight of the Pawnees, who immediately mounted 50 or 60
young men and joined in the pursuit. Then, for the first time in my
life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages with their
original weapons, bows and arrows; they buried the arrow up to the
plume in the animal. We took a piece of meat and pursued our party; we
overtook them and encamped within the Grand or Solomon Fork, which we
had crossed lower down on the 23d of September, on our route to the
Pawnees. This was the Spanish encamping ground. Distance 18
miles.[II-6]
In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, who had not eaten for
three days, two of which they had carried a sick companion whom they
had left this day; we gave them for supper some meat and corn, and
they immediately departed in order to carry their sick companion this
seasonable supply. When they were coming into camp, the sentinel
challenged, it being dark; they immediately, on seeing him bring his
piece to the charge, supposing he was about to fire on them, advanced
to give him their hands; he, however, not well discerning their
motions, was on the point of firing; but being a cool, collected
little fellow, called out that there were two Indians advancing on
him, and asked if he should fire. This brought out the guard, when the
poor affrighted savages were brought into camp, very much alarmed, for
they had not heard of a white man's being in their country, and
thought they were entering one of the camps of their own people.
_Oct. 10th._ Marched at seven o'clock and halted at twelve o'clock to
dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee chief whose party we left the day
before, who informed us the hunting-party had taken another road, and
that he had come to bid us good-by. We left a large ridge on our left,
and at sundown crossed it.... [?[II-7]] From this place we had an
extensive view of the southwest; we observed a creek at a distance, to
which I meant to proceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself arrived
at eight o'clock at night; found water and wood, but had nothing to
eat. Kindled a fire in order to guide the party; but they, not being
able to find the route and not knowing the distance, encamped on the
prairie without wood or water.
_Oct. 11th._ Ordered Baroney to return to find the party and conduct
them to our camp. The doctor and myself went out to hunt, and on our
return found all our people had arrived, except the rear-guard, which
was in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came to our camp and
brought some bones of a horse which the Spanish troops had been
obliged to eat at their encampment on this creek. We took up our line
of march at twelve o'clock, and at sundown the party halted on the
Saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo, and did not make the camp until
near ten o'clock at night. Killed one buffalo. Distance 12
miles.[II-8]
_Sunday, Oct. 12th._ Here Belle Oiseau and one Osage left us, and
there remained only one man and woman of that nation. Their reason for
leaving us was that our course bore too much west, and they desired to
bear more for the hunting-ground of the Osage. In the morning we sent
out to obtain the buffalo meat, and laid by until after breakfast.
Proceeded at eleven o'clock; and crossing the [Grand Saline] river two
or three times, we passed two camps where the Spanish troops had
halted. Here they appeared to have remained some days, their roads
being so much blended with the traces of the buffalo that we lost them
entirely. This was a mortifying stroke, as we had reason to calculate
that they had good guides, and were on the best route for wood and
water. We took a southwest direction, and before night were fortunate
enough to strike their roads on the left; and at dusk, much to our
surprise, struck the east [Smoky Hill] fork of the Kans, or La Touche
de la Cote Bucanieus. Killed one buffalo. Distance 18 miles.[II-9]
_Oct. 13th._ The day being rainy, we did not march until two o'clock;
when, it having an appearance of clearing off, we raised our camp [and
crossed the Smoky Hill river]; after which we marched seven miles and
encamped on the head of a branch of the river we had left. Had to go
two miles for water. Killed one cabrie.
_Oct. 14th._ It having drizzled rain all night, and the atmosphere
being entirely obscured, we did not march until a quarter past nine
o'clock, and commenced crossing the dividing ridge between the Kans
and Arkansaw rivers.[II-10] Arrived on a branch of the latter at one
o'clock; continued down it in search of water until after dusk, when
we found a pond on the prairie, which induced us to halt. Sparks did
not come up, being scarcely able to walk with rheumatic pains. Wounded
several buffalo, but could not get one of them. Distance 24 miles.
_Oct. 15th._ In the morning rode out in search of the south trace, and
crossed the low prairie [Cheyenne Bottoms], which was nearly all
covered with ponds, but could not discover it. Finding Sparks did not
arrive, sent two men in search of him, who arrived with him about
eleven o'clock. At twelve o'clock we commenced our line of march, and
at five o'clock Dr. Robinson and myself left the party at a large
[Walnut[II-11]] creek, having pointed out a distant wood to
Lieutenant Wilkinson for our encampment, in order to search some
distance up it for the Spanish trace. Killed two buffalo and left part
of our clothing with them to scare away the wolves. Went in pursuit of
the party. On our arrival at the [Little Walnut] creek appointed for
the encampment, did not find them. Proceeded down it for some miles,
and not finding them, encamped, struck fire, and then supped on one of
our buffalo tongues.
_Oct. 16th._ Early on horseback; proceeded up the [Little Walnut]
creek some distance in search of our party, but at twelve o'clock
crossed to our two buffaloes; found a great many wolves at them,
notwithstanding the precautions taken to keep them off. Cooked some
marrow-bones and again mounted our horses, and proceeded down the
creek to their junction. Finding nothing of the party, I began to be
seriously alarmed for their safety. Killed two more buffalo, made our
encampment, and feasted sumptuously on the marrow-bones. Rain in the
night.
_Oct. 17th._ Rose early, determining to search the [Little Walnut]
creek to its source. Very hard rain, accompanied by a cold northwester
all day. Encamped near night without being able to discover any signs
of the party. Our sensations now became excruciating, not only for
their personal safety, but for fear of the failure of the national
objects intended to be accomplished by the expedition. Our own
situation was not the most agreeable, not having more than four rounds
of ammunition each, and being 400 miles in the nearest direction from
the first civilized inhabitants. We, however, concluded to search for
the party on the morrow, and if we did not succeed in finding them, to
strike the Arkansaw, where we were in hopes to discover some traces,
if not cut off by the savages.
_Oct. 18th._ Commenced our route at a good time, and about ten o'clock
discovered two men on horseback in search of us--one my waiter. They
informed us the party was encamped on the Arkansaw, about three miles
south of where we then were; this surprised us very much, as we had no
conception of that river being so near. On our arrival we were met by
Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, with all the party, was greatly concerned
for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the party's arrival, had not water in
it six inches deep, and the stream was not more than 20 feet wide;
but the rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river,
which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank. These are not more
than four feet in height, bordered by a few cottonwood trees; on the
north side is a low swampy prairie; on the south, a sandy sterile
desert at a small distance. In the afternoon the doctor and myself
took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw, in order to search for some
trees which might answer the purpose to make canoes; found but one,
and returned at dusk. It commenced raining at twelve o'clock.
_Sunday, Oct. 19th._ Finding the river rising rapidly, I thought it
best to secure our passage over [from the N. to the S. bank]; we
consequently made it good by ten o'clock. Rain all day. Preparing our
tools and arms for labor and the chase on the morrow.
_Oct. 20th._ Commenced our labor at two trees for canoes, but one
proved too much doated.[II-12] Killed two buffalo and one cabrie.
Discharged our guns at a mark, the best shot a prize of one tent and a
pair of shoes. Our only dog was standing at the root of the tree, in
the grass; one of the balls struck him on the head and killed him.
Ceased raining about twelve o'clock.
_Oct. 21st._ Dr. Robinson and myself mounted our horses, in order to
go down the river to the entrance of the three last creeks we had
crossed on our route; but meeting with buffalo, we killed four; also,
one cabrie. Returned to the camp and sent for the meat.
_Oct. 22d._ Having sat up very late last evening, expecting the
sergeant and party, who did not arrive, we were very anxious for them;
but about ten o'clock Bradley arrived and informed us that they could
not find the buffalo which we had killed on the prairie. They all
arrived before noon. In the afternoon we scaffolded some meat, and
nearly completed the frame of a skin canoe, which we concluded to
build. Overhauled my instruments and made some rectifications
preparatory to taking an observation, etc.
_Oct. 23d._ Dr. Robinson and myself, accompanied by one man, ascended
the river with an intention of searching for the Spanish trace; at the
same time we dispatched Baroney and our two hunters to kill some
buffalo, to obtain the skins for canoes. We ascended the river about
20 miles to a large branch [Pawnee fork[II-13]] on the right. Just at
dusk gave chase to a buffalo and were obliged to shoot 19 balls into
him before we killed him. Encamped on the fork [at Larned, Pawnee
Co.].
_Oct. 24th._ We ascended the right branch [Pawnee fork] about five
miles [old Fort Larned], but could not see any sign of the Spanish
trace; this is not surprising, as the river bears southwest, and they
no doubt kept more to the west from the head of one branch to another.
We returned and on our way killed some prairie-squirrels [_Cynomys
ludovicianus_], or wishtonwishes, and nine large rattlesnakes
[_Crotalus confluentus_], which frequent their villages. On our
arrival, found the hunters had come in a boat, one hour before, with
two buffalo and one elk skin.
The wishtonwish of the Indians, prairie-dogs of some travelers, or
squirrels, as I should be inclined to denominate them, reside on the
prairies of Louisiana in towns or villages, having an evident police
established in their communities. The sites of their towns are
generally on the brow of a hill, near some creek or pond, in order to
be convenient to water, and that the high ground which they inhabit
may not be subject to inundation. Their residence, being under ground,
is burrowed out, and the earth, which answers the double purpose of
keeping out the water and affording an elevated place in wet seasons
to repose on, and to give them a further and more distinct view of the
country. Their holes descend in a spiral form; therefore I could never
ascertain their depth; but I once had 140 kettles of water poured into
one of them in order to drive out the occupant, without effect. In the
circuit of the villages they clear off all the grass, and leave the
earth bare of vegetation; but whether it is from an instinct they
possess inducing them to keep the ground thus cleared, or whether they
make use of the herbage as food, I cannot pretend to determine. The
latter opinion I think entitled to a preference, as their teeth
designate them to be of the graminivorous species, and I know of no
other substance which is produced in the vicinity of their positions
on which they could subsist; and they never extend their excursions
more than half a mile from the burrows. They are of a dark brown
color, except their bellies, which are white. Their tails are not so
long as those of our gray squirrels, but are shaped precisely like
theirs; their teeth, head, nails, and body are the perfect squirrel,
except that they are generally fatter than that animal. Their villages
sometimes extend over two and three miles square, in which there must
be innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally a burrow every ten
steps in which there are two or more, and you see new ones partly
excavated on all the borders of the town. We killed great numbers of
them with our rifles and found them excellent meat, after they were
exposed a night or two to the frost, by which means the rankness
acquired by their subterraneous dwelling is corrected. As you approach
their towns, you are saluted on all sides by the cry of "wishtonwish,"
from which they derive their name with the Indians, uttered in a
shrill and piercing manner. You then observe them all retreating to
the entrance of their burrows, where they post themselves, and regard
every, even the slightest, movement that you make. It requires a very
nice shot with a rifle to kill them, as they must be killed dead, for
as long as life exists they continue to work into their cells. It is
extremely dangerous to pass through their towns, as they abound with
rattlesnakes, both of the yellow and black species; and strange as it
may appear, I have seen the wishtonwish, the rattlesnake, the horn
frog [_Phrynosoma douglasi_], with which the prairie abounds (termed
by the Spaniards the cammellion [camaleon, _i. e._, chameleon], from
their taking no visible sustenance), and a land-tortoise, all take
refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert that it was their
common place of resort; but I have witnessed the above facts more than
in one instance.[II-14]
_Oct. 25th._ Took an observation; passed the day in writing, and
preparing for the departure of Lieutenant Wilkinson.
_Sunday, Oct. 26th._ Delivered out a ration of corn by way of
distinction of the Sabbath. Preparing for our departure.
_Oct. 27th._ Delivered to Lieutenant Wilkinson letters for the
general[II-15] and our friends, with other papers, consisting of his
instructions, traverse tables of our voyage, and a draught of our
route to that place complete, in order that if we were lost, and he
arrived in safety, we might not have made the tour without some
benefit to our country. He took with him, in corn and meat, 21 days'
provisions, and all the necessary tools to build canoes or cabins.
Launched his canoes. We concluded we would separate in the morning, he
to descend [the river], and we to ascend to the mountains.
_Oct. 28th._ As soon as possible all was in motion, my party crossing
the river to the north side, and Lieutenant Wilkinson launching his
canoes of skins and wood. We breakfasted together, and then filed off;
but I suffered my party to march, while I remained to see Lieutenant
Wilkinson sail. This he did at ten o'clock, having one skin canoe,
made of four buffalo skins and two elk skins, which held three men
besides himself and one Osage. In his wooden canoe were one soldier,
one Osage, and their baggage; one other soldier marched on
shore.[II-16] We parted with "God bless you" from both parties; they
appeared to sail very well. In the pursuit of our party, Dr. Robinson,
Baroney, one soldier, and myself, killed a brelau [blaireau, badger,
_Taxidea americana_] and a buffalo; of the latter we took only his
marrow-bones and liver. Arrived where our men had encamped, about
dusk. Distance 14 miles.[II-17]
_Oct. 29th._ Marched after breakfast and in the first hour's march
passed two fires, where 21 Indians had recently encamped, in which
party, by their paintings on the rocks, there were seven guns. Killed
a buffalo, halted, made fire, and feasted on the choice pieces of
meat. About noon discovered two horses feeding with a herd of buffalo;
we attempted to surround them, but they soon cleared our fleetest
coursers. One appeared to be an elegant horse. These were the first
wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours before night struck the
Spanish road; and, as it was snowing, halted and encamped the party at
the first woods on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then
forded it, the ice running very thick, in order to discover the course
the Spaniards took; but owing to the many buffalo roads, could not
ascertain it. It evidently appeared that they had halted here some
time, as the ground was covered with horse-dung for miles around.
Returned to camp. The snow fell about two inches deep, and then it
cleared up. Distance 12 miles.[II-18]
_Oct. 30th._ In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo, to have his
marrow-bones for breakfast, which was accomplished. After breakfast
the party marched up on the north side; the doctor and myself crossed
with considerable difficulty, on account of the ice, to the Spanish
camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover the Spanish
trace, and came in at a point of woods south of the river, where we
found our party encamped. We discovered also that the Spanish troops
had marked the river up [_i. e._, left an up-river trail], and that a
party of savages had been there not more than three days before.
Killed two buffalo. Distance 4 miles. [Opposite Garfield, Pawnee Co.,
where Big Coon creek falls in.[II-19]]
_Oct. 31st._ Fine day; marched at three quarters past nine o'clock, on
the Spanish road. Encamped, sun an hour high, after having made 16
miles [opposite Kinsley, Edwards Co.[II-20]].
We observed this day a species of crystallization on the road, when
the sun was high, in low places where there had been water settled; on
tasting it found it to be salt; this gave in my mind some authenticity
to the report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Discovered the
trace of about 20 savages who had followed our road; and of horses
going down the river. Killed one buffalo, one elk, one deer.
_Nov. 1st._ Marched early; just after commencing our line, heard a gun
on our left. The doctor, Baroney, and myself being in advance, and
lying on the ground waiting for the party, a band of cabrie came up
among our horses, to satisfy their curiosity; we could not resist the
temptation of killing two, although we had plenty of meat. At the
report of the gun they appeared astonished, and stood still until we
hallowed [hallooed] at them to drive them away. Encamped in the
evening on an island.[II-21]
Upon using my glass to observe the adjacent country, I observed on the
prairie a herd of horses. Dr. Robinson and Baroney accompanied me to
go and view them; when within a quarter of a mile they discovered us,
and came immediately up near us, making the earth tremble under them;
this brought to my recollection a charge of cavalry. They stopped and
gave us an opportunity to view them; among them there were some very
beautiful bays, blacks, and grays, and indeed of all colors. We fired
at a black horse, with an idea of creasing[II-22] him, but did not
succeed; they flourished round and returned again to see us, when we
returned to camp.
_Sunday, Nov. 2d._ In the morning, for the purpose of trying the
experiment, we equipped six of our fleetest coursers with riders and
ropes, to noose the wild horses, if in our power to come among the
band. They stood until we came within forty yards of them, neighing
and whinneying, when the chase began, which we continued about two
miles, without success. Two of our horses ran up with them; but we
could not take them. Returned to camp. I have since laughed at our
folly; for taking wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever
attempted, even with the fleetest horses and most expert ropers. See
my account of wild horses and the manner of taking them, in my
dissertation on the province of Texas. Marched late. Killed one
buffalo. River turned to north by west. Hills changed to the north
side. Distance 13½ miles.[II-23]
_Nov. 3d._ Marched at ten o'clock. Passed numerous herds of buffalo,
elk, some horses, etc., all traveling south. The river bottoms full of
salt ponds; grass similar to our salt meadows. Killed one buffalo.
Distance 25½ miles.[II-24]
_Nov. 4th._ This day brought to our recollection the fate of our
countrymen at Recovery,[II-25] when defeated by the Indians, in the
year 1791. In the afternoon discovered the north side of the river to
be covered with animals; which, when we came to them, proved to be
buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an exaggeration to say
there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy of remark that in all the
extent of country yet crossed, we never saw one cow, and that now the
face of the earth appeared to be covered with them. Killed one
buffalo. Distance 24½ miles.[II-26]
_Nov. 5th._ Marched at our usual hour; at the end of two miles shot a
buffalo and two deer, and halted, which detained us so long that we
foolishly concluded to halt this day and kill some cows and calves,
which lay on the opposite side of the river. I took post on a hill,
and sent some horsemen over, when a scene took place which gave a
lively representation of an engagement. The herd of buffalo being
divided into separate bands covered the prairie with dust, and first
charged on the one side, then to the other, as the pursuit of the
horsemen impelled them; the report and smoke from the guns added to
the pleasure of the scene, which in part compensated for our
detention.
_Nov. 6th._ Marched early, but was detained two or three hours by the
cows which we killed. The cow buffalo was equal to any meat I ever
saw, and we feasted sumptuously on the choice morsels. I will not
attempt to describe the droves of animals we now saw on our route;
suffice it to say that the face of the prairie was covered with them,
on each side of the river; their numbers exceeded imagination.
Distance 16 miles.[II-27]
_Nov. 7th._ Marched early. The herbage being very poor, concluded to
lay by on the morrow, in order to recruit our horses. Killed three cow
buffalo, one calf, two wolves, one brelaw. Distance 18 miles.[II-28]
_Nov. 8th._ Our horses being very much jaded and our situation very
eligible, we halted all day; jerked meat, mended mockinsons, etc.
_Sunday, Nov. 9th._ Marched early. At twelve o'clock struck the
Spanish road, which had been on the outside of us, and which appeared
to be considerably augmented. On our arrival at the camp, found it to
consist of 96 fires, from which a reasonable conclusion might be drawn
that there were from 600 to 700 men. We this day found the face of the
country considerably changed, being hilly, with springs; passed
numerous herds of buffalo and some horses. Distance 27 miles.[II-29]
_Nov. 10th._ The hills increased; the banks of the river covered with
groves of young cottonwood; the river itself much narrower and
crooked. Our horses growing weak; two gave out; bring them along
empty; cut down trees at night for them to browse on. Killed one
buffalo. Distance 20 miles.[II-30]
_Nov. 11th._ Marched at the usual hour. Passed two old camps, and one
of last summer, which had belonged to the savages, and we supposed
Tetaus. Passed a Spanish camp where it appeared they remained some
days, as we conjectured, to lay up meat, previously to entering the
Tetau country, as the buffalo evidently began to grow much less
numerous. Finding the impossibility of performing the voyage in the
time proposed, I determined to spare no pains to accomplish every
object, even should it oblige me to spend another winter in the
desert. Killed one buffalo, one brelaw. Distance 24 miles.[II-31]
_Nov. 12th._ Was obliged to leave the two horses, which entirely gave
out. Missed the Spanish road. Killed one buffalo. Distance 20
miles.[II-32]
_Nov. 13th._ We marched at the usual hour. The river-banks began to be
entirely covered with woods on both sides, but no other species than
cotton-wood. Discovered very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our
hunters informed me he saw a man on horseback, ascending a ravine on
our left. Discovered signs of war-parties ascending the river. Wounded
several buffalo. Killed one turkey, the first we have seen since we
left the Pawnees. [Supposed distance 12 miles.[II-33]]
_Nov. 14th._ In the morning, Dr. Robinson, one man and myself, went
up the ravine in which the man was supposed to have been seen, but
could make no important discovery. Marched at two o'clock; passed a
point of red rocks and one large creek.[II-34] Distance 10 miles.
_Nov. 15th._ Marched early. Passed two deep creeks[II-35] and many
high points of rocks; also, large herds of buffalo.
At two o'clock in the afternoon I thought I could distinguish a
mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue cloud; viewed
it with the spy glass, and was still more confirmed in my conjecture,
yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in front with me;
but in half an hour they appeared in full view before us. When our
small party arrived on the hill they with one accord gave three cheers
to the Mexican mountains.[II-36] Their appearance can easily be
imagined by those who have crossed the Alleghenies; but their sides
were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. Those were a
spur of the grand western chain of mountains which divide the waters
of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic ocean; and it [the spur]
divides the waters which empty into the Bay of the Holy Spirit from
those of the Mississippi, as the Alleghenies do those which discharge
themselves into the latter river and the Atlantic. They appear to
present a natural boundary between the province of Louisiana and New
Mexico, and would be a defined and natural boundary.
Before evening we discovered a fork [Purgatory river] on the south
side bearing S. 25° W.; and as the Spanish troops appeared to have
borne up it, we encamped on its banks, about one mile from its
confluence, that we might make further discoveries on the morrow,
Killed three buffalo. Distance 24 miles.[II-37]
_Sunday, Nov. 16th._ After ascertaining that the Spanish troops had
ascended the right branch or main river, we marched at two o'clock.
The Arkansaw appeared at this place to be much more navigable than
below, where we first struck it; and for any impediment I have yet
discovered in the river, I would not hesitate to embark in February at
its mouth and ascend to the Mexican mountains, with crafts properly
constructed. Distance 11½ miles.[II-38]
_Nov. 17th._ Marched at our usual hour; pushed on with an idea of
arriving at the mountains, but found at night no visible difference in
their appearance from what we did yesterday. One of our horses gave
out and was left in a ravine, not being able to ascend the hill; but I
sent back for him and had him brought to the camp. Distance 23½
miles.[II-39]
_Nov. 18th._ As we discovered fresh signs of the savages, we concluded
it best to stop and kill some meat, for fear we should get into a
country where we could not kill game. Sent out the hunters; walked
myself to an eminence whence I took the courses to the different
mountains, and a small sketch of their appearance. In the evening,
found the hunters had killed without mercy, having slain 17 buffalo
and wounded at least 20 more.
_Nov. 19th._ Having several buffalo brought in, gave out sufficient to
last this month. I found it expedient to remain and dry the meat, as
our horses were getting very weak, and the one died which was brought
up on the 17th. Had a general feast of marrow-bones, 136 of them
furnishing the repast.
_Nov. 20th._ Marched at our usual hour; but as our horses' loads were
considerably augmented by the death of one horse and the addition of
900 lbs. of meat, we moved slowly and made only 18 miles.[II-40]
Killed two buffalo and took some choice pieces.
_Nov. 21st._ Marched at our usual hour; passed two Spanish camps,
within three miles of each other. We again discovered the tracks of
two men, who had ascended the river yesterday. This caused us to move
with caution; but at the same time increased our anxiety to discover
them. The river was certainly as navigable here, and I think much more
so, than some hundred miles below; which I suppose arises from its
flowing through a long course of sandy soil, which must absorb much of
the water, and render it shoaler below than above, near the mountains.
Distance 21 miles.[II-41]
_Nov. 22d._ Marched at our usual hour, and with rather more caution
than usual. After having marched about five miles on the prairie, we
descended into the bottom--the front only[II-42]; when Baroney cried
out "_Voila un Savage!_" We observed a number running from the woods
toward us; we advanced to them, and on turning my head to the left I
observed several running on the hill, as it were to surround us; one
with a stand of colors. This caused a momentary halt; but perceiving
those in front reaching out their hands, and without arms, we again
advanced; they met us with open arms, crowding round to touch and
embrace us. They appeared so anxious that I dismounted from my horse;
in a moment a fellow had mounted him and was off. I then observed that
the doctor and Baroney were in the same predicament. The Indians were
embracing the soldiers. After some time tranquillity was so far
restored, they having returned our horses all safe, as to enable us to
learn they were a war-party from the Grand Pawnees, who had been in
search of the Tetaus; but not finding them, were now on their return.
An unsuccessful war-party, on their return home, are always ready to
embrace an opportunity of gratifying their disappointed vengeance on
the first persons whom they meet.
Made for the woods and unloaded our horses, when the two partisans
endeavored to arrange the party; it was with great difficulty that
they got them tranquil, and not until there had been a bow or two bent
on the occasion. When in some order, we found them to be 60 warriors,
half with fire-arms, and half with bows, arrows, and lances. Our party
was 16 total. In a short time they were arranged in a ring, and I took
my seat between the two partisans; our colors were placed opposite
each other; the utensils for smoking were paraded on a small seat
before us; thus far all was well. I then ordered half a carrot of
tobacco, one dozen knives, 60 fire steels, and 60 flints to be
presented them. They demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles,
etc., all of which they were refused, notwithstanding the pressing
instances of my interpreter to accord to some points. The pipes yet
lay unmoved, as if they were undetermined whether to treat us as
friends or enemies; but after some time we were presented with a
kettle of water, drank, smoked, and ate together. During this time Dr.
Robinson was standing up to observe their actions, in order that we
might be ready to commence hostilities as soon as they. They now took
their presents and commenced distributing them, but some malcontents
threw them away, by way of contempt.
We began to load our horses, when they encircled us and commenced
stealing everything they could. Finding it was difficult to preserve
my pistols, I mounted my horse, when I found myself frequently
surrounded; during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols.
The doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and all the
soldiers in their positions, in taking things from them. One having
stolen my tomahawk, I informed the chief; but he paid no respect,
except to reply that "they were pitiful." Finding this, I determined
to protect ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair began
to take a serious aspect. I ordered my men to take their arms and
separate themselves from the savages; at the same time declaring to
them that I would kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which
they commenced filing off immediately; we marched about the same time,
and found they had made out to steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax,
five canteens, and sundry other small articles. After leaving them,
when I reflected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely mortified,
that the smallness of my number obliged me thus to submit to the
insults of lawless banditti, it being the first time a savage ever
took anything from me with the least appearance of force.
After encamping at night the doctor and myself went about one mile
back, and waylaid the road, determined in case we discovered any of
the rascals pursuing us to steal our horses, to kill two at least; but
after waiting behind some logs until some time in the night, and
discovering no person, we returned to camp. Killed two buffalo and one
deer. Distance 17 miles.[II-43]
_Sunday, Nov. 23d._ Marched at ten o'clock; at one o'clock came to the
third fork [St. Charles river], on the south side, and encamped at
night in the point of the grand forks [confluence of Fountain river].
As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many small branches,
and of course must be near its extreme source, I concluded to put the
party in a defensible situation, and ascend the north fork [Fountain
river] to the high point [Pike's Peak] of the blue mountain [Front
range], which we conceived would be one day's march, in order to be
enabled, from its pinical [pinnacle], to lay down the various branches
and positions of the country. Killed five buffalo. Distance 19
miles.[II-44]
_Nov. 24th._ Early in the morning we cut down 14 logs, and put up a
breast work,[II-45] five feet high on three sides and the other
thrown on the river. After giving the necessary orders for their
government during my absence, in case of our not returning, we marched
at one o'clock, with an idea of arriving at the foot of the mountain;
but found ourselves obliged to take up our night's lodging under a
single cedar which we found in the prairie, without water and
extremely cold. Our party besides myself consisted of Dr. Robinson,
and Privates Miller and Brown. Distance 12 miles.[II-46]
_Nov. 25th._ Marched early, with an expectation of ascending the
mountain, but was only able to encamp at its base, after passing over
many small hills covered with cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment
was on a [Turkey] creek, where we found no water for several miles
from the mountain; but near its base, found springs sufficient. Took a
meridional observation, and the altitude of the mountain. Killed two
buffalo. Distance 22 miles.[II-47]
_Nov. 26th._ Expecting to return to our camp the same evening, we left
all our blankets and provisions at the foot of the [Cheyenne]
mountain. Killed a deer of a new species [_Cariacus macrotis_], and
hung his skin on a tree with some meat. We commenced ascending; found
it very difficult, being obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes almost
perpendicular; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave,
without blankets, victuals, or water.[II-48] We had a fine clear sky,
while it was snowing at the bottom. On the side of the mountain we
found only yellow and pitch-pine. Some distance up we found buffalo;
higher still the new species of deer, and pheasants [dusky grouse,
_Dendragapus obscurus_].
_Nov. 27th._ Arose hungry, dry, and extremely sore, from the
inequality of the rocks on which we had lain all night, but were amply
compensated for toil by the sublimity of the prospect below. The
unbounded prairie was overhung with clouds, which appeared like the
ocean in a storm, wave piled on wave and foaming, while the sky was
perfectly clear where we were. Commenced our march up the mountain,
and in about one hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here we
found the snow middle-deep; no sign of beast or bird inhabiting this
region. The thermometer, which stood at 9° above zero at the foot of
the mountain, here fell to 4° below zero. The summit of the Grand
Peak, which was entirely bare of vegetation and covered with snow, now
appeared at the distance of 15 or 16 miles from us. It was as high
again as what we had ascended, and it would have taken a whole day's
march to arrive at its base, when I believe no human being could have
ascended to its pinical. This, with the condition of my soldiers, who
had only light overalls on, no stockings, and were in every way ill
provided to endure the inclemency of the region; the bad prospect of
killing anything to subsist on, with the further detention of two or
three days which it must occasion, determined us to return. The clouds
from below had now ascended the mountain and entirely enveloped the
summit, on which rest eternal snows. We descended by a long, deep
ravine, with much less difficulty than contemplated. Found all our
baggage safe, but the provisions all destroyed. It began to snow, and
we sought shelter under the side of a projecting rock, where we all
four made a meal on one partridge and a piece of deer's ribs the
ravens had left us, being the first we had eaten in that 48 hours.
_Nov. 28th._ Marched at nine o'clock. Kept straight on down the
[Turkey] creek to avoid the hills.[II-49] At half past one o'clock
shot two buffalo, when we made the first full meal we had made in
three days. Encamped in a valley under a shelving rock. The land here
very rich, and covered with old Tetau [Comanche] camps.
_Nov. 29th._ Marched after a short repast, and arrived at our camp
before night; found all well.
_Sunday, Nov. 30th._ Marched at eleven o'clock; it snowed very fast,
but my impatience to be moving would not permit my lying still at that
camp. The doctor, Baroney, and myself went to view a Tetau encampment,
which appeared to be about two years old; and from their having cut
down so large a quantity of trees to support their horses, we
concluded there must have been at least 1,000 souls. Passed several
more in the course of the day; also one Spanish camp. This day came to
the first cedar and pine. Killed two deer. Distance 15 miles.[II-50]
FOOTNOTES:
[II-1] On the other hand, Lewis and Clark first heard of Pike's
expedition on Sept. 10th, 1806, when they were nearing the Big Nemaha
on their way down the Missouri, and met a boat with a trader bound for
the Pawnee Loups: see L. and C., p. 1206.
[II-2] Letters to Generals Dearborn and Wilkinson, sent by this
express, formed Docs. Nos. 13 and 14 in the App. to Pt. 2. of the
orig. ed. They are given beyond.
[II-3] Camp is on one of the tributaries of Rock cr., close to that of
Sept. 24th, if not on the same spot.
The route now taken by the expedition is very little W. of S., to
strike the Arkansaw r. at the most convenient point. Thus it diverges
westerly from the route by which the Pawnee Republic was approached,
which was W. of N. The two make a [Symbol: Inverted V] whose legs rest
on the Smoky Hill fork at the two points where this was crossed in
going and returning, with the apex at the village. The main streams
crossed between the Republican and Smoky Hill forks are Solomon and
Great Saline rivers. Pike is also on the trail of the Spaniards who
have just raided United States territory to the Pawnees; he marks
their camps, as far as he can find them out, with a [Symbol: O], to
distinguish them from his own, marked [Symbol: X].
The party which leaves the Pawnees, so far as the white men are
concerned, only differs from that which left Belle Fontaine by the
absence of the deserter, Kennerman: see note 2, p. 358. The express
which Pike dispatched therefore consisted of some of his Indians.
[II-4] This close calculation was doubtless based in part on
information Pike already possessed. We have been told that Malgares
started on his raid with 100 dragoons and 500 militia, of which 600
men 240 had been detached, leaving 360. The "large branch" on which
was camp was probably one of the heads of Livingston cr.
[II-5] "Distance 18 miles" would never bring Pike to any branch of the
Solomon. His error here is a puzzling one until it is detected by
reference to the map. That sets his camp-mark high up on the same
creek, several branches of which he had on his left when he went up E.
of it, Sept. 24th. It is _Buffalo cr._, which Pike erroneously runs
into Solomon r., and so seems never to have passed before. See back,
note 68. I suppose he struck Buffalo cr. below Mankato, somewhere in
the vicinity of Jewell and very likely between these places. He seems
to be holding about S. S. W., and to-morrow strikes Solomon r. But, as
already explained, note 70, p. 410, precision in this matter is
impossible, without knowing exactly where the Pawnee village stood, so
as to have a fixed initial point of the journey. I understand that
there was a certain "Pawnee trail" once well known from this village
to Great Bend on the Arkansaw. If this be now determinable, it will
represent Pike's route with a closer approximation to accuracy than I
have been able to follow it out.
[II-6] To the Solomon r., in the vicinity of Beloit, Mitchell Co. The
stream which Pike lays down across his trail of to-day is perhaps Plum
cr., which falls in below Beloit.
[II-7] Hiatus in the text, probably from missing or illegible MS.; no
course or distance for to-day. But the map shows a march, and sets
camp among the heads of a small stream. This is perhaps Salt cr., high
up, somewhere in the vicinity of Saltville, Paris, or Victor.
[II-8] Perhaps to vicinity of Lincoln, seat of the county so called.
The map has an extra camp-mark, on the head of what Pike calls "Little
Saline river."
[II-9] In saying that he crossed the (Grand Saline) river "two or
three times," Pike does not mean that he meandered that stream on his
march, but that he or some of his party were hunting about for the
Spanish trail which he was so eager to follow, and which here became
blind. His map marks [Symbol: O] [Symbol: O], the two Spanish camps he
found. His was on the north bank of Smoky Hill r., whose other name in
the text, "La Touche de la Cote Bucanieus," possibly stands for La
Fourche de la Côte du Kansas, _i. e._, that fork of the Kansas which
runs along the dividing ridge or coteau--which is perfectly true of
the Smoky Hill fork. Pike struck the Smoky Hill in Russell or
Ellsworth Co. Camp of the 13th is about on the border of Russell and
Barton cos., in the vicinity of Forest Hill and Dubuque.
[II-10] The approximation of Missourian and Arkansan waters is here
very close. The Arkansaw makes its great bend northward into Barton
Co., whose county seat is named Great Bend accordingly. The courses of
the Smoky Hill and Arkansaw are for many miles approximately parallel,
and only some 30 m. apart in air-line distance; the numerous
tributaries of each arise all along the ridge which forms the divide
between these waters. Pike has crossed the divide, and is now on one
of the headwaters of Cow cr., a large affluent of the Arkansaw, which
traverses Barton and Rice cos. in a southeasterly course, and falls in
at Hutchinson, Reno Co. His camp appears to have been somewhere in the
vicinity of Claflin, Barton Co., on the Kas. and Col. R. R. The stream
is laid down on his map. It is by far the largest tributary of the
Arkansaw between the Little Arkansaw and Walnut creeks. It was the
last stream to be crossed on the old Santa Fé caravan road before the
Arkansaw was reached. This road also crossed the several tributaries
of Cow cr. in the vicinity of Lyons, Rice Co. One of these, between
Lyons and Chase, was called Little Cow cr. We find another, E. of
Lyons, marked on modern maps as "Jarvis" cr., and given as Charez or
Owl cr. in Beckwith's Report of 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 22.
Two of these names refer to Don Antonio José Chavez, who left Santa Fé
in February, 1843, en route for Independence, Mo., but was brutally
murdered and robbed in this vicinity, on or about April 12th, by a
party of 15 men who represented themselves to be Texan troops under
the command of one John McDaniel. Particulars of this outrage are
given by Gregg, Comm. Pra. II. 1844, pp. 166-169.
[II-11] Walnut (Big or Wet Walnut) cr. is that large northern affluent
of the Arkansaw which runs E. from Lane through Ness and Rush into
Barton Co., and falls into the river 4 m. below Great Bend, county
seat of Barton. A branch of this, called Little or Dry Walnut cr.,
runs E. from Rush into Barton, and falls into Walnut cr. about 4 m.
from the mouth of the latter. Great Bend is on the N. bank of the
Arkansaw, and thus between that river and Little Walnut cr. The way in
which, and the precise point at which, the Expedition struck the
Arkansaw could hardly be discovered from the text of the 15th-18th; we
are not even told till the 18th that we are on the Arkansaw, as the
15th mostly, and the 16th and 17th entirely, are taken up with the
wanderings of the lieutenant and doctor, who got lost. The key to the
situation is not found till the 23d, when it is luckily recited that a
trip was made from the camp on the Arkansaw "about 20 miles to a large
branch [or fork] on the right." This is the well-known Pawnee fork of
the Arkansaw, where was old Fort Larned, a noted place, and where is
now Larned, seat of Pawnee Co. So the Expedition struck the Arkansaw
20 m. below Larned, in the very suburbs of the present city of Great
Bend. This locality about the mouth of Walnut cr. became early noted,
not only as the place of northernmost deflection of the Arkansaw, but
also as the first objective point on that river, where the old Santa
Fé caravan road struck that river. It also became the site of Fort
Zara, or Zarah--to be found on some maps as Fort Sarah--which was
built in 1853 on the high ground between Walnut and Cow creeks, about
5 m. N. of the road. On July 12th of that year, Capt. Gunnison reached
the great bend by the Smoky Hill route from Fort Riley, having been
preceded in arriving there three days by his companion, who came over
the regular Santa Fé route; Lieut.-Col. E. V. Sumner, 1st Dragoons,
and other officers, arrived from Mexico the same night; and on the
spot was camped Captain and Bvt.-Major Edward Johnson, 6th Infantry,
about to build the fort, as that 100 m. further up the Arkansaw (Fort
Atkinson) was to be abandoned. Col. John Garland of the 8th Infantry
passed by in July of that year. Pike's approach was: Being in camp of
the 14th on some head of Cow cr., the Expedition started on the 15th
at noon, and marched five hours, about 15 m., on a W. S. W. course,
thus crossing the Cheyenne Bottoms above said, and coming to Walnut
cr. just above the mouth of the Little Walnut above described. Pike
pointed out a wood and told Wilkinson to go there to camp, while he
and the doctor would go up Walnut cr. a piece to hunt for the Spanish
trail. Either mistaking the wood intended, or finding himself so near
the Arkansaw, Wilkinson went on to that river and camped the party on
its north bank, a mile or two above where Great Bend now stands. Pike
and the doctor went shooting buffalo, and it got pretty late; they
returned to where Pike had told Wilkinson to camp, and found nobody
there; so they bivouacked on the spot. In the morning they went up
Little Walnut cr. to search, but did not go far from those two buffalo
they had killed; in fact they got rattled at finding no camp, turned
about and went _down_ Little Walnut cr. to its mouth (which is what
text of the 16th means by "their junction"--confluence of the two
creeks). On the morning of the 17th, being thoroughly alarmed, and
imagining that the party must be higher up the Little Walnut, they
started up again, but probably went a very little way in the rain; for
they were overtaken early on the 18th by two men whom Wilkinson had
sent in search of them, and then they were only "about three" miles
from the camp on the Arkansaw. It is not likely they were at any
moment 10 m. from the spot where they had left the party.
Pike's map shows nothing but the trail of the party, no camp being
marked after that of the 12th, on the other side of the Smoky Hill r.
The trail makes a sharp elbow at the point where, having come down Cow
cr. on the 14th, they turned from that stream on the 15th. Besides Cow
cr., three others appear in succession to the W. The first is Walnut
cr.; the second is Little Walnut, a branch of the first, run
separately into the Arkansaw; while the third is Ash cr., which falls
in above camp. Cow cr. is brought in too near the next one. On the
south side of the Arkansaw is marked the station of the 19th-27th,
with the legend: "Here we struck the Arkansaw from whence L^t.
Wilkinson descended the river in skin canoes and Capt. Pike went up by
land with his party." This ends map I. of the Arkansaw, etc., and map
II. of the same connects at this point, the first stream laid down
being Pawnee fork, and the first camp that of the 29th. Camp of the
28th falls between the two maps, and is not shown. The Spanish trail,
which Pike lost on Smoky Hill r., was all the while a little to the W.
or right of the party, and is recovered on the S. side of the
Arkansaw, on the 30th.
Pike elsewhere says of his journey from the Pawnees to the Arkansaw
that it was on a general course S. 10° W. 150 m., but might have been
made in 120. His deviation from the most direct route was in bearing a
little too far W. to cross the Saline and Smoky Hill, and then some
needless meandering across the divide to the Arkansaw. But he struck
the latter exactly at the right point; for Great Bend is where the old
Smoky Hill and Cimarron route from Leavenworth to Santa Fé reached the
Arkansaw. There was of course nothing on the spot in Pike's time--nor
was there even in 1864, when I first passed the place, excepting a
miserable shack the stage company had built. The nearest settlement at
that time was Fort Larned. My journal of May 31st, 1864, refreshes my
memory: "At 2 p. m. we brought up at Fort Larned--mean place, built of
adobe and logs, with a drunken officer in command; everybody half
drunk already; and all were whole drunk by bed-time."
[II-12] Doted or unsound: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 951.
[II-13] Pawnee fork is larger than Walnut cr. It runs through several
counties on a general E. course, and falls in at Larned, seat of
Pawnee Co. When I was in the country, 30 years ago, the three
principal branches were called Heth's, Buckner's, and Shaff's. A
branch now rejoices in the name of Guzzler's Gulch. Saw-mill cr. is a
long but slight tributary which falls in close to the mouth of the
main stream. Pike crosses the mouth of Pawnee fork on the 29th; the
Spaniards had crossed it higher up. He lays it down as a short, forked
stream. Larned is now a city of some importance, and a rival of Great
Bend; it is the natural development of which old Fort Larned was the
germ; it is built mainly on the N. or left bank of Pawnee fork, but
has lately crossed that stream, and also extended in the adjoining
Arkansaw bottom. The locality became noted with the establishment of
the Santa Fé trade in the '20's, and later on was a point of strategic
importance in our relations with hostile or unruly Indians. The main
road passed here en route for Santa Fé, in continuation both of the
earliest caravan road and of the later Smoky Hill stage route; it
offered a good camping place, which traders, troops, and other
travelers generally occupied. Another reason for stopping was that the
river was not easy to cross when full. Thus, when Emory and Abert were
here, July 13th, 1846, one of Kearny's expressmen, A. E. Hughes, was
drowned in it (J. T. Hughes, Doniphan's Exp., 1887, p. 21). But it
varied much; July 13th, 1853, Gunnison and Beckwith found it 20 feet
wide, with a fair current, and a depth of only a foot or two.
[II-14] This is an early but not the first account of the animals, and
has been much cited, particularly as authority for the name
wishtonwish (which J. Fenimore Cooper misapplied to the whippoorwill
in one of his novels). The date of Pike's observation is subsequent to
that of Lewis and Clark, but its publication was prior by four years;
both these notices are antedated by Gass, 1807: see L. and C., ed.
1893, p. 111.
[II-15] A letter which Lieutenant Williamson bore to his father from
Pike formed Doc. No. 15 of the App. to Pt. 2. of the orig. ed., and is
given beyond in its proper place.
[II-16] The five soldiers who descended the Arkansaw with Lieutenant
Wilkinson were: Sergeant Ballenger; Privates Boley, Bradley,
Huddleston, Wilson. Lieutenant Wilkinson's separate report of his
journey hence to the Arkansaw Post formed one of the Documents of the
App. to Pt. 2 of the orig. ed., and will be found beyond, where it is
annotated in due course.
Those who proceeded to the horrors of the mountains in midwinter and
subsequent capture by the Spaniards were: Captain Pike; Dr. Robinson;
Interpreter Vasquez; Sergeant Meek; Corporal Jackson; Privates Brown,
Carter, Dougherty, Gorden, Menaugh, Miller, Mountjoy, Roy, Smith,
Sparks, Stoute--16 all told: compare date of Oct. 7th, p. 419 and note
2, p. 360.
Pike now starts up the Arkansaw, to which he holds till he reaches the
site of Pueblo, Col.
[II-17] Taking the party past Pawnee rock and the mouth of Ash cr., to
a point about midway between the latter and the mouth of Pawnee fork.
They traveled on the left or N. side of the river, approximately along
the track of the A., T. and S. F. R. R., passing Dundee station and
the small town of Pawnee Rock; Hubbard cr., on the other side of the
river, is also passed, and camp is set a little beyond it, over the
border of Barton Co., in Pawnee Co. The town of Pawnee Rock takes its
name from the remarkable natural object of the same designation, also
sometimes called Painted rock, which was a great landmark in old
times. This is the most prominent point of a sandstone ridge of
notably reddish color and in part scoriaceous; it is about 20 feet
high, and stands off to the right of the road as you go up--about 2 m.
from the Arkansaw r., before you come to the crossing of Ash cr. It
was a convenient place for the Indians to exercise their pictographic
art, and when the road came to be traveled by the whites the rock was
soon covered with inscriptions of names, dates, and the like. It is
about 9 m. by the road from the town of Pawnee Rock to the crossing of
Pawnee fork.
[II-18] Passing Pawnee fork and Larned, Pawnee Co., to camp on the
left or N. W. bank of the Arkansaw, about 5 m. beyond. Here is the
place where the old Santa Fé road forked, in the days of the caravans
and stages. The main road followed up the Arkansaw; but the right-hand
road sheered off from the river to take up what was known as the "dry
route"--a sort of cut-off which looked promising and became a regular
stage-road, but was no great advantage when you had to go slowly and
camp out, as the lesser distance was offset by lack of wood at all
times, and of water at most seasons. Having been over this road, I can
certify to the remarks of Gunnison and Beckwith, P. R. R. Rep. II.,
1855, p. 24: "Five miles from camp [on Pawnee Fork] the road forks ...
and one branch follows near by the windings of the Arkansas, to secure
grass and water, while the other appears to push off for a 'short cut'
and 'dry route' to Fort Atkinson, near which they again unite on the
Arkansas river; but this appearance is deceptive; for after going a
few miles it turns abruptly southward, and follows but a few miles
from, and parallel with, the other road, keeping it generally in
sight, as it does also the trees and sand-hills upon the banks of the
Arkansas river, and is, except in the rainy season, without good grass
and badly watered." The air-line distance of the "dry route," from the
point where Pike is now to Dodge City, is about 54 m.; the actual
travel is nearer 60. The ground passed over is that sometimes watered
by the Coon creeks, and the road coincides to some extent with that
now traversed by the A., T. and S. F. R. R. Of late the face of the
country has been modified by the Eureka Irrigating Canal, which starts
from the Arkansaw at Ingalls, hugs the river more or less closely to
the bluffs below Dodge City, and then starts off across country in the
direction of Spearville and Kinsley.
[II-19] Pike camps to-night about opposite Garfield, a railroad
station and small village on the left or N. W. bank of the river. He
started up on that side (having the river to his left), but crossed
over on the 30th, and will continue the whole way to Pueblo up the
right bank, having the river on his right. The general course of the
river being from W. to E., its right bank is on the S., and thus N. of
Pike.
[II-20] Kinsley, county seat of Edwards, is something of a town in
these parts, situated a mile or two W. of the river on that one of the
Coon creeks which runs oftener than the other one does, and which,
when it has any water to discharge, falls into the Arkansaw at
Garfield, after skirting the river for many miles. The nomenclature of
Big and Little Coon creeks is reversed on some maps. I find that I was
camped on one of them, 24 m. from Fort Larned, June 1st, 1864, under
which date my old journal calls it "a puddlesome slough on the
prairie." Thirty years ago it was good buffalo country, and
consequently bad Indian country. A note I penciled June 3d, 1864, runs
thus: "Our route since leaving Larned has been mostly along the north
bank of the Arkansaw. Queer river that--a great ditch, chock full of
grassy islets, stretching through the treeless prairie like a spotted
snake, some seasons so dry you can't wet your foot in it for miles,
and have to dig for a drink, sometimes a raging flood 200 yards wide.
Traveling without military escort is risky. The Cheyennes are on the
rampage; Comanches and Kiowas too." On the 6th, nearing Fort Lyon, we
passed an Indian camp; "it was a band of Arapahoes, at war with the
Cheyennes."
[II-21] No mileage for to-day. By Pike's map, camp is at an elbow of
the river, which denotes that curve the Arkansaw makes in passing from
Ford into Kiowa Co. There is no place to name in this vicinity, and
the best maps, on a scale of 2 m. to the inch, do not give any island
hereabouts. We will allow Pike 16 m., and set camp in Ford Co., just
over the border of Kiowa.
[II-22] To "crease" a horse is to hit him with a bullet somewhere
along the nape of the neck, close enough to the cervical vertebræ to
stun him by the shock to the spinal cord, or to the ligamentum nuchæ,
yet not to inflict permanent injury. When this is nicely done the
horse falls as if killed, and is roped before he recovers. But it
takes a very good shot, like "driving the nail," "snuffing the
candle," "barking the squirrel," and other feats of skill which our
backwoodsmen used to practice.
[II-23] Since he left Great Bend, Pike has had hilly country
continuously on his left, with only a very narrow river-bottom on that
side, in comparison with the breadth of the low-lying land on the W.
or N. In fact, it is this series of countless thousands of hills and
hillocks which causes the deflection of the river northward, thus
making the "great bend." The place where the change occurs, and where
Pike camps, is at Ford, a town in the county of that name, on the S.
bank of the Arkansaw, or rather on the E. and S. bank of Mulberry cr.,
a stream from the S. W., which winds around the town on the W. and N.,
and falls into the Arkansaw a mile or so lower down. A branch of the
Chic., Kas., and Neb. R. R. runs through Ford from Bucklin to Dodge
City, Ensign, and Montezuma.
[II-24] Taking Pike past the site of old Fort Dodge and of present
Dodge City, nearly to the boundary between Ford and Gray cos.--say
halfway from Dodge to Cimarron, and thus about opp. Howell station of
the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Dodge started on the N. bank, but has
overgrown the river, and is now built up on both sides, with two
bridges across. Dodge is 17 m. by rail above Ford, and almost exactly
on the 100th meridian--probably some of the houses are built on each
side of this line of longitude. At or near Dodge were the long-noted
"Caches," of which most of the early travelers speak, but which seem
to have been latterly lost sight of. I cannot locate the exact spot,
but it ought to be easily recoverable by those who have the data I
happen to lack. The place used to be spoken of as near the meridian
just said--though that does not help us at all, as the maps of those
days were mostly 30´ out of the way in longitudes. Thus, even Gunnison
and Beckwith's route-map of 1853 runs the line E. of the mouth of
Mulberry cr. where Ford now stands, and thus about 99° 40´. Gregg's is
much closer than this, though it is on a much smaller scale; his 100th
line runs midway betwixt the mouth of Mulberry cr. and the "Caches."
Wislizenus' route-map, accompanying his report to Congress (Senate
Misc. Doc. No. 26, 30th Congr., 1st Sess., pub. 1848) is closer still;
for the "Caches" are marked scarcely W. of 100°. Wislizenus gives us
another clew, as he marks "Fort Mann" at the "Caches." The "Caches"
were also about the place where the dry cut-off, described in note 18
above, reached the Arkansaw--in short, everything points to the
immediate vicinity of Fort Dodge as the place where these caches were
located. "The history of the origin of these 'Caches' may be of
sufficient interest to merit a brief recital," as Gregg says, Comm.
Pra. I. 1844, p. 67, where, and on p. 19, we have the account. In 1812
was fitted out the first expedition which attempted to reach Santa Fé
by following the account of Pike's journey now before us. This
consisted of about a dozen men, among them two named Beard and
Chambers, who had succeeded in reaching Santa Fé with the others, and
had returned to the United States in 1822 (Chambers had done so by way
of the Canadian r.). These two interested some St. Louis capitalists
to join an enterprise in the Santa Fé trade, and then undertook to
return to Santa Fé in the fall of 1822 with a small party and an
assortment of merchandise. "Reaching the Arkansas late in the season,
they were overtaken by a heavy snowstorm, and driven to take shelter
on a large island. A rigorous winter ensued, which forced them to
remain pent up in that place for three long months. During this time
the greater part of their animals perished; so that, when the spring
began to open, they were unable to continue their journey with their
goods. In this emergency they made a _cache_ some distance above, on
the north side of the river, where they stowed away most of their
merchandize. From thence they proceeded to Taos, where they procured
mules, and returned to get their hidden property. Few travelers pass
this way without visiting these mossy pits, many of which remain
partly unfilled to the present day."
[II-25] Alluding to the terrible defeat of General Arthur St. Clair's
army by Indians on a branch of the Wabash r., in present Darke Co.,
Ohio, Nov. 4th, 1791. This was the most disastrous battle ever lost by
the whites to the Indians, surpassing Braddock's defeat on the
Monongahela in 1755. On Dec. 25th, 1793, General Anthony Wayne, who
had become commander-in-chief in 1792, and taken command of the Army
of the West, sent a detachment of soldiers to take possession of the
field where General St. Clair had been defeated, built a fort there,
and named the place Recovery, because it was then first recovered from
the Indians, who had retained possession after the disaster above
named. June 29th, 1794, General Wayne sent troops with supplies to
Fort Recovery from Greenville, where he was then stationed. The
detachment reached the fort and deposited its supplies in safety, but
was immediately attacked, and the fort itself was invested by Indians,
assisted by whites from Canada. The battle raged June 30th and July
1st, when the assailants were repulsed, not without great loss on our
side. Among those who fell was the gallant McMahon, who had commanded
the expedition to Fort Recovery. For further information see: Howe's
Hist. Coll. Ohio, under head of Darke Co.; Burnet's Notes of the N. W.
Terr., chap. vii; Albach's Annals of the West, p. 642. Present Fort
Recovery is a village in Mercer Co. O., on a branch of the Wabash r.,
close to the Indiana State line.
[II-26] Camp past Cimarron and Ingalls, but not far W. of the
latter--5 m., perhaps. These are two towns on the N. bank,
respectively 18 and 26 m. above Dodge City. Ingalls is the seat of
Gray Co. The Amer. Sp. word _cimarron_ means something wild, runaway,
or unreclaimed, like _maroon_, and is applicable to an animal, a
person, a place, etc. It designated the wild sheep of the Rocky
Mountains (_Ovis montana_), gave name to one of the largest branches
of the Arkansaw, and was early associated with a certain route from
the Arkansaw to Santa Fé. The name of J. J. Ingalls was long prominent
in Kansas politics and in national statesmanship, and at one time
associated with the too-true statement that "purity in politics is an
iridescent dream." Notwithstanding the injunction against
truth-telling which the consequences of the scholarly senator's remark
imply, I wish to speak as accurately as possible regarding the points
at which the Cimarron route left the Arkansaw. There were two of these
places, both of which Pike passes to-day, where the river was forded,
and the road thus crossed from the N. to the S. bank. These became
known as the Lower and Upper Crossings of the Arkansaw; they were 8 m.
apart; the lower one was 18 m. and the upper one 26 m. above Fort
Atkinson; they thus correspond to the positions of Cimarron and
Ingalls, respectively. The river is now bridged at each town. The
Lower Crossing was the earlier one, most used by the traders from 1834
till the closing of the Mexican ports in 1843; after the war the Upper
Crossing seems to have been generally chosen. Thus, we find Gunnison
and Beckwith saying in 1853, P. R. R. Rep. II. 1855, p. 26: "Seventeen
miles from the fort [Atkinson] there is a ford, sometimes used by the
trains and parties going to and from New Mexico by the Cimmaron
[_sic_] route; but the principal ford for that route is 8 m. above
this." Writing of 1846, Dr. Wislizenus speaks of moving "about 20
miles" up the Arkansaw from the Caches, and arriving "at the usual
fording place," _i. e._, the lower one. "This track," says Gregg,
Comm. Pra. I. 1844, p. 311, "which has since remained permanent, was
made in the year 1834. Owing to continuous rains during the passage of
the caravan of that year a plain trail was then cut in the softened
turf, on the most direct route across this arid desert, leaving the
Arkansas about 20 miles above the 'Caches.' This has ever since been
the regular route of the caravans; and thus a recurrence of those
distressing sufferings from thirst, so frequently experienced by early
travellers in that unhospitable region, has been prevented." The first
camp S. of the Arkansaw was usually made in the vicinity of the Sand
Hills, at a place called the Battleground after 1843, in which year
the defeat of the Mexicans by the Texans under Colonel Snively
occurred on that spot; it was some 12-15 m. from the river. The roads
from the two fords came together at no great distance from the
Arkansaw (perhaps in the vicinity of Ulysses, seat of Grant Co.);
having thus headed the Crooked Creek branch of Cimarron, the road
crossed Sandy cr. not far above its confluence with the Cimarron, and
so reached that river.
[II-27] Past Pierceville, a village and station on the A., T., and S.
F. R. R., just over the line between Gray and Finney cos.; camp 3 or 4
m. short of Garden City, seat of the latter county.
[II-28] Past Garden City and Sherlock; camp on or near the boundary
between Finney and Kearney cos., in the vicinity of Deerfield, a place
on the railroad. Most of the older maps mark hereabout the large
island in the Arkansaw called Chouteau's, somewhat W. of the 101st
meridian, and apparently near Deerfield.
[II-29] Vicinity of Harland, seat of Kearney Co. In saying that the
Spanish road had been "on the outside" of the party, Pike gives us to
understand that it had run along to his left, a little further from
the river, though since the 30th of Oct. he had been also traveling on
the S. side of the Arkansaw, having that river on his right.
Nevertheless, the map marks the two trails as identical, the Spanish
camps alternating with the American all along. There has been little
to note along this stretch of the river, where no stream of any
consequence falls in on either side. Pike here remarks a change, in
the beginning of hilly country; extensive sand-hills are skirting the
river on the S., in Kearney Co., and thence into Hamilton.
[II-30] Vicinity of Syracuse, seat of Hamilton Co.
[II-31] Last day's journey in Kansas, passing from Hamilton Co., over
the inter-State line, into Prowers Co., Colorado. Pike's mileages
along the whole course from Great Bend are remarkably close. I
designedly ran them off day by day, without any checking by known
positions, to see when he would strike the inter-State line, about 5
m. beyond which is the first identifiable named stream; expecting then
to hark back, much as usual, and make the requisite adjustments of
camps by proportionate lengths of each. But I find no occasion for
this; his own mileages fix his camp of the 11th as nearly as possible
on the line, and we have three identifiable streams in the course of
his march on the 12th. To-day's camp is between Coolidge, Hamilton
Co., Kas., and Hollys, Prowers Co., Col., 2 m. W. of the former, 4 m.
E. of the latter, in lat. 38° 02´ N., long. 102° 02´ W.
[II-32] In Colorado Pike first comes opp. Hollys, a village on the N.
bank and station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Below this are some
small runs on the N., among them one called Cheyenne cr.; and Wild
Horse cr. falls in on that side a mile above Hollys. He then crosses
Two Butte cr., a much larger stream, from the S., arising in Las
Animas Co. about the elevations from which it takes name, running
through the N. W. corner of Baca and traversing Prowers to fall in a
mile above the mouth of Wild Horse cr., opposite the large island
there. Continuing, Pike crosses Granada cr., from the S., which falls
in where the railroad crosses the Arkansaw and runs into the station
named Adana. If he held straight on the best road, keeping to the left
of the extensive bottoms along here, he went through the present sites
of Granada, a village 4 m. W. of Adana, on Wolf cr., and of Manville,
a station 2 m. further along. Camp was set about halfway between
Manville and Carlton, a place 4 m. beyond. Several runs or washes make
in along here on each side, but seldom carry as much water as the
ditches which have been brought from the Arkansaw through and by
Granada. Pike charts Two Butte cr., and one that answers either to
Granada or Wolf cr.: notice the pair he lays down, S., with the legend
"Cotton Wood becomes frequent" lettered across Two Butte cr.
The Wild Horse cr. above mentioned appears on Gregg's map by the name
of "Lit. Sand Cr."
[II-33] No mileage to-day; and the omission is not easily supplied. On
the 15th Pike camps at the mouth of Purgatory r., and it took him 34
m. by his reckoning to get there from his camp of the 13th. Therefore,
camp of the 13th was about 12 m. from that of the 12th, and thus
within a mile or two of Lamar. I shall so suppose it to have been.
This sets Pike past the "point of red rocks and one large [Big Sandy]
creek," which he speaks of as having passed on the 14th, but it agrees
with the map, which sets a camp-mark for the 13th past Big Sandy cr.
There is evidently a confusion of the record of the 13th and 14th,
perhaps in the flurry of the Indian sign; all things considered, I
shall set camp of the 13th, hypothetically, 2 m. short of Lamar: and
that of the 14th at the station Prowers, 10 m. further; whence it is
about 24 m. for the 15th to Purgatory r. The points passed on the 13th
and 14th are most conveniently discussed together: see next note. The
site of Fort Aubrey (named for or by F. X. Aubrey?), on the N. bank,
was probably passed on the 13th.
[II-34] From his camp of the 12th Pike passes the village and station
Carlton, opposite which the small Cottonwood cr. falls in from the N.,
and proceeds to his own "large creek" and "point of rocks." This
stream is Big Sandy cr., from the N.; Pike lays it down very well. It
is quite a river or river-bed, which when it runs drains from the high
country known as the Arkansaw Divide, _sc._ between Arkansan and
Missourian waters, in El Paso, Elbert, and Lincoln cos. The stream
further traverses Cheyenne and Kiowa cos., and seeks the Arkansaw in
Prowers Co., 2 or 3 m. below the point of rocks Pike notices. This is
a place where a bold headland abuts against the river on the south,
rising rapidly from 3,575 to more than 3,800--that is, some 300 feet
above the general level of the river bottom. A run known as Clay cr.
comes around the bluff on the W. The next above is Willow cr., S., on
which Lamar stands between irrigating ditches derived from the
Arkansaw, and the next above is Dry cr., S., halfway between Lamar and
Prowers station. Here is camp of the 14th, just over the border of
Prowers, in Bent Co. Pike's map legends "Broken with small Ravines &
Creeks" on the country passed over.
[II-35] This statement conflicts with Pike's map, which lays down only
one stream between the two camp-marks that stand for the 14th and
15th. But the text is right, and _both_ these camp-marks are
misplaced. One belongs just below Mud cr., and the other at Purgatory
r., where there is no sign of one, though this is the most exactly
locatable station since we left Great Bend. Pike's "two deep creeks"
are Mud and Caddoa; his "many points of rocks" appear on any good
topographical map. There is a series of such between Prowers and Mud
cr., on the S., opposite which Graveyard cr. falls in, N. Two very
notable points of rocks, a mile apart, are separated by Caddoa cr.;
and Limestone cr. falls in from the N., 2 or 3 m. below these. These
bluffs extend to the village of Caddoa, 2 m. up, in a bottom left by
their recession from the river, before they again close in on the
river in two bold headlands, 1 or 2 m. above Caddoa. The country on
the N., across the river, is also bluffy for several miles along here.
The elevations close to the river are 3,800 to 3,900 feet, and higher
further back on both sides. Above the Caddoan bluffs a creek which
Pike charts falls on the S. This is lettered Blue cr. on late G. L. O.
maps, and Rule cr. on those of Hayden and Powell. Caddoa cr. heads
about the N. W. corner of Baca Co., and takes a northerly course to
the Arkansaw; Blue or Rule cr. is the larger one of the two; some of
its affluents are near those of Caddoa and upper reaches of Two Butte
cr., about Shell Rock cañon in Baca Co., but its real source is
further south in Las Animas Co., where Johnny cr. and others head. Its
course is northerly, but with an eastward trend, about parallel with
Purgatory r. About an hour before Pike reached this large river he
passed opposite the place where Fort Lyon was later built, on the
bluff around which the Arkansaw there sweeps closely. In 1864 Lyon was
the first inhabited place on the Arkansaw west of Larned, though there
had been trading-posts or certain other temporary dwellings at various
points, especially at the upper end of the Big Timbers, say 12 m. E.
of Fort Lyon. These were a large body of cottonwoods extending thence
several miles down the river on its N. side, and formed a noted resort
of various Indian tribes. Hence the woods became well known to
travelers along the Arkansaw, whose itineraries almost always speak of
the "Big Timbers" as they approach the Purgatory on their way to
Bent's fort. Pike's text of the 13th is no doubt the earliest
indication of these woods.
Gregg's map lays down three large creeks from the S. between his Big
Sand cr. and Purgatory r. The first of these is called Mulberry; the
other two are nameless. The three appear to correspond to the Mud,
Caddoa, and Blue creeks just described.
[II-36] The main chain of the Rocky mts., with Pike's Peak towering to
the right: see L. and C., ed. 1893, p. 328. Pike has before him the
Front range of the Rockies, northward, or to the right; and southward,
or to the left, the Sangre de Cristo range. The sources of Arkansan
waters are between these; while on the other side of the last named
range are those of the Rio Grande. The "cheers to the Mexican
mountains" were given at an alt. of 3,900 feet.
[II-37] Purgatory r., also called in English Picket-wire, in French
Rivière Purgatoire, and in Spanish Rio Purgatorio and Rio de Las
Animas, is charted by Pike as the "1st Fork," with the legend "Here
the Mountains are first seen." This very large branch or fork of the
Arkansaw heads in that southward continuation of the Sangre de Cristo
range which is known as the Culebra range, about Trinchera, Culebra,
and other peaks, where it connects with sources of the Rio Culebra, a
tributary of the upper Rio Grande. Its own tributaries are very
numerous and extensive. The main river runs N. E. from Las Animas Co.,
through the S. E. corner of Otero Co., and joins the Arkansaw in Bent
Co., between the site of Fort Lyon and that of Las Animas, present
county seat of Bent. Pike camped where the railroad now crosses; and
his journey since the 12th has been practically along the present
railroad line.
[II-38] It is certain that Pike was on Purgatory r. on the 15th, and
certain that he did not reach his "Grand Forks" (present site of
Pueblo, at junction of Fountain r.) till evening of the 23d. The
distance between these points, along the river, is between 90 and 100
m. Pike's ostensible mileages are: for the 16th, 11½; 17th, 23½; 18th
and 19th, none; 20th, 18; 21st, 21; 22d, 17; and 23d, 19; total, 110
m. We have, therefore, to reduce these mileages by about one day's
journey. Observe, also, that only _four_ camps are marked for the
16th-22d; there should be _five_, and with that for the 23d, _six_.
Thus the text and map do not agree, and some error is evident, though
what it is we have no means of deciding with confidence. I am inclined
to think that the difficulty lies at the start from the "1st Fork"
(Purgatory r.), when so much of the day was occupied in searching for
the Spanish trail, and the "11½" m. assigned may have been little if
any actual advance. If we proceed upon this supposition, there will be
no trouble in adjusting mileages to bring in the missing camp by the
20th; after which all possible error is removed by the identifiable
points. I shall, therefore, set camp of the 16th scarcely above the
mouths of Adobe and Horse (formerly Dry) creeks, which fall in close
together on the north, 7 and 8 m. above Purgatory r. Neither of these
is noticed by Pike, though each is larger than some of the streams he
charts. But they were across the river, and Pike had a bad case of
Spanish trail on the brain, aggravated by anxiety about Indian sign.
[II-39] The mileage hardly requires any adjustment, from the position
I have assigned for the 16th, to set camp of the 17th in the close
vicinity of Rocky Ford, a village and station on the railroad, where
Pike remains on the 18th and 19th. Rocky Ford is 5 m. above Timpas cr.
(which he charts as the first stream from the left above his "1st
Fork"). Timpas or Timpa is a large creek which heads in Las Animas Co.
and runs N. N. E. into the Arkansaw at the upper point of that very
large island above La Junta.
The most notable point passed to-day is the historic site of Bent's
old fort, on the N. bank of the Arkansaw, 7 or 8 m. E. of the Timpas.
It was a position of great consequence in the days of staging from
Fort Leavenworth and other points on the Missouri to Taos, Santa Fé,
and other New Mexican places. Most of the early itineraries, both
commercial and military, speak of Bent's fort, and the advantages of
this location for a post were more than once urged upon the attention
of the War Department. It was on an emigrant road, in the heart of an
Indian country overrun with various tribes; was a sort of focus for
several widely divergent termini; was in the vicinity of good building
material, and had plenty of fuel, grass, and water. Mr. Bent himself
destroyed it in 1849, when he abandoned it for sufficient reasons; but
some of the chimneys and adobe walls long stood to mark the spot. Thus
it was Bent's "old" fort when I passed by, about 30 years ago.
Gregg's, Wislizenus', and in fact most maps of the period mark the
fort, some of them giving also a certain Fort William alongside it.
The structure is described as "quite complete" by Lieut. J. W. Abert,
who was here in August, 1846, at which time he met such noted
plainsmen as Capt. Walker of California renown, Marcellus St. Vrain,
and "Bill" Garey. Col. Price's regiment was here about the same time.
The several columns of Gen. S. W. Kearny's Army of the West, which
invaded and subjugated New Mexico and California, coming from Fort
Leavenworth by the Arkansaw route, concentrated in camp a few miles
below the fort, Aug. 1st, 1846. Kit Carson knew the place well, and
Frémont found him not far away from here in July, 1843. A view of
Bent's fort as it appeared in 1846 is given by John T. Hughes, in his
admirable Doniphan's Expedition, 8vo, Cincinnati, 1847, p. 35. The old
route into Santa Fé left the Arkansaw close by Bent's fort, went S. W.
between Purgatory r. and Timpas cr., struck the latter at a place then
as now called Iron Springs, and so on through the Raton mts., not very
different from the way the A., T., and S. F. R. R. now takes. A
glimpse at the kind of a road this used to be is had from the
following extract from my diary: "_Tuesday, June 7th, 1864._ Bent's
old fort. Cold ride in the rain from 3 a. m. to 5 p. m., when we
brought up at the fort. Here was our crossing of the Arkansaw. Recent
hard rains made the river unfordable; so we had to ferry ourselves
over the surging tide in a frail skiff--ticklish business. However, we
got safe across, with all our worldly goods--the latter nothing to
speak of, and stood shivering while the ramshackled hack that met us
on the other side was loaded and hitched up. This storm and the
ferriage began a series of mishaps that reached to Fort Stanton in New
Mexico, and made the driver swear that 'the grace of God had petered
out on the other side of the Arkansaw.' Kept on to Iron Springs; road
miry, pace snaily."
The name of Bent's Fort is preserved as that of a place nearly
opposite (a little above) the present station Robinson, which latter
is exactly on the boundary between Bent and Otero cos. Above this is
La Junta, on the S., seat of the county. Several creeks fall in on the
S. along here, the largest one of them named Crooked cr.
[II-40] Taking the Expedition just beyond the mouth of the Apishapa,
Apishipa, or Apishpa r., to the present station Rockdale. This stream
is charted by Pike; _a camp-mark is set just above it_, assuring us
that the difficulty we had is already adjusted. It is a large river,
or rather a long-bedded water-course (like many others which start
well, but run out in the thirsty soil), heading about the Spanish
Peaks, and reaching the Arkansaw at the foot of Apishapa bluffs (4,675
feet), between Rockdale and Catlin. Three miles off, across the
Arkansaw, is the station Olney of the Mo. Pac. R. R., which here comes
to the river. In old days a point opposite the mouth of the Apishapa
was a good camp on the Cherokee trail to the gold-diggings on Cherry
cr., with the Huerfano mountains and Spanish Peaks in sight.
[II-41] To a point on the river, in Pueblo Co., between Nepesta and
the Huerfano, short of which river Pike's camp-mark is set. Pike
charts the Huerfano as his "2nd Fork." We also notice that he marks
_two_ Spanish camps, [Symbol: O] [Symbol: O], for the day's march, as
called for by the text, though they are by no means set down "within
three miles of each other." Nepesta is only a hamlet and station, but
serves to mark a well-known crossing of the Arkansaw. The A., T., and
S. F. R. R. now crosses here, meeting the Mo. Pac. R. R., and the two
tracks run together into Pueblo. The Huerfano is a great river, which
heads in the Sangre de Cristo range, among the mountains of the Sierra
Blanca range, and by various other affluents, as Muddy cr. and others,
heading in the very passes of the Sangre range which we shall have to
discuss when Pike's forlorn and frostbitten party reaches them. Some
other tributaries drain from the W. side of the Wet mts. The union of
these in Huerfano Park starts the river out of the mountains by
Huerfano pass; in the plains it receives Cucharas r., a tributary of
nearly equal size, from further S., and their united stream seeks the
Arkansaw on a N. E. course. A place called Jackson is on the river
near its mouth; opposite, across the Arkansaw, is Booneville.
The place above mentioned by the name Nepesta reminds me to say that
Rio Napeste was a Spanish name of the Arkansaw r. itself, at least in
its upper or Colorado reaches. One of Pike's own maps letters "Rio de
Napesi," a phrase reappearing as "Rio de Nanesi" on Lewis and Clark's
map of 1814; and yet other forms of the name occur. The phrase is
obviously Spanish, but the word itself I do not recognize as
such--very likely it is derived from the Ute Indian language.
Humboldt's map letters "Rio de Napestle."
[II-42] The "front only," a phrase italicized in the original, means
that only the vanguard of the army met the insolent Pawnees. This
probably consisted of Pike, Robinson, and Vasquez; the rest of the
invading forces, being 13 rank and file, main column and rearguard
combined, having not yet come up to engage the enemy.
[II-43] The Huerfano (Orphan) r., marked "2nd Fork" on Pike's map, is
passed to-day without remark--no doubt Pike was thinking more of
Pawnees than of geography. In consequence of the fracas, little
progress was made; probably less than 17 m., as we see by the mileage
assigned to the 23d. Camp can be set little if any beyond the site of
old Fort Reynolds, which stood on the S. bank of the river, about
opposite the mouth of Black Squirrel or Chico cr. This falls in from
the N., on a course parallel with that of Fountain r.; it arises by
several heads in the Arkansaw divide, N. E. of Colorado Springs,
opposite heads of Kiowa and Bijou creeks (branches of the South
Platte); at its mouth is Chico sta. (Nyburg), on the N. side of the
Arkansaw, 12 m. E. of Pueblo. Nearly opposite the mouth of the
Huerfano is Booneville; this locality used to be a regular
camping-ground on the old Cherokee trail, and here was a ford across
the Arkansaw, opposite Charles Audebee's (or Autobee's) house.
[II-44] Pike's Third Fork, charted "3d Fork," is the San Carlos or St.
Charles r. His Grand Forks is the confluence of Fountain r. with the
Arkansaw, at present city of Pueblo--perhaps the best known place
where we have found him since the Expedition started. The Charles
arises in the Wet mts., where also heads its main branch, called
Greenhorn r., as in fact the Charles itself often used to be. Their
streams unite in the prairie 8 m. S. of Pueblo, and fall into the
Arkansaw 7 m. E. of that city, or about halfway to Fort Reynolds. It
was in this vicinity that the old Cherokee trail forked, the
right-hand road taking up toward the gold diggings, while the other
kept on to Pueblo. The Greenhorn mt., about which the San Carlos
heads, has an ascertained altitude of 12,230 feet. Fountain r. is
still called Fontaine r. by those who prefer French to English, and
used to be more elaborately styled La Rivière de la Fontaine qui
Bouille, River of the Boiling Spring--not that the water is hot, but
that it bubbles as it wells out of the rocks, as if it were boiling.
"This spring," says Marcy, Pra. Trav. 1859, p. 300, "or, rather,
springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock,
are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The
water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the
taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress water." But before General
Marcy's time the springs had become noted. On the 17th of July, 1843,
they were visited by Frémont, who describes them at length in his
Rep., orig. ed. 1845, p. 117; Mr. Charles Preuss, of his party,
thought the water resembled that of the Seltzer Springs in the Grand
Duchy of Nassau. About nine-tenths of the solid matters in solution is
chalk. When I was at Manitou Springs, a few years ago, it was a common
sight to see people in the electric cars with bottles of the water,
which had already become an extensively advertised commercial article.
Fountain r. has also its Spanish name of Rio Almagre or Almagra,
meaning red ocher or other reddish earth. It is formed of two main
courses which head about Pike's Peak and other elevations of the same
outlying (Front) range of the Rockies, called respectively Fountain
and Monument cr.; these unite at Colorado Springs. Monument cr.,
coming southward in the foothills, is composed of various others,
called Beaver, Dead Man's, West Monument, Crystal, etc. Fountain cr.,
which comes eastward from Pike's Peak itself and that vicinity, seeks
the plains by the villages of Manitou Springs and Colorado City, and
the city of Colorado Springs (seat of El Paso Co.)--for such are the
respective designations of these places, now well known to tourists
and especially valetudinarians. At Manitou Springs it receives Ruxton
cr., through Ingleman cañon, now traversed by the cogwheel Manitou and
Pike's Peak R. R.; item, it receives Glen "Erie" (Eyrie) cr., which
runs through the little mountain park called Garden of the Gods--a
spot not favorable to agriculture and one whose alleged proprietors
maintain their wonted alibi. Visitors who now inspect the natural
curiosities hereabouts, including a cave of very respectable
dimensions and disagreeable atmosphere, go up a carriage road which
follows for some distance what was an old Indian trail between South
Park and the plains. Fountain r., thus composed, runs S. along the E.
base of the R. mts., receiving small affluents all along on either
hand, as Bear, N. Cheyenne, S. Cheyenne, Sand, Jimmy's Camp, and
Little Fountain creeks, and falls into the Arkansaw at Pueblo, as
already said. It is Pike's "North Fork" of the Arkansaw, and this is
the stream nearly parallel with which he proceeds via Turkey cr.
toward the "high point of the blue mountain," _i. e._, Pike's Peak.
His breastwork was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw, slightly
above the confluence of Fountain r., and thus within present city
limits of Pueblo--though the built-up portions of South Pueblo are
mostly a mile or so from the confluence. A suburb of South Pueblo is
called Bessemer, where stand the great smelters and other evidences of
that commercial energy which has caused Pueblo to be sometimes styled
"the Pittsburg of the West," though the pure air is not to be compared
with the smutty gas one breathes at the old site of Fort Duquesne. A
mile from Bessemer is Lake Minnequa, a resort of the Pueblonians for
boating, beer, and music. Pueblo has retained for more than half a
century a name that was originally not a proper but a common noun.
Thus we read in Frémont, Rep. 1845, p. 116: "Continuing down the
[Fountain] river, we encamped at noon on the 14th [of July, 1843] at
its mouth, on the Arkansas river. A short distance above our
encampment, on the left bank of the Arkansas, is a _pueblo_, (as the
Mexicans call their civilized Indian villages,) where a number of
mountaineers, who had married Spanish women in the vicinity of Taos,
had collected together, and occupied themselves in farming, carrying
on at the same time a desultory Indian trade. They were principally
Americans, and treated us with all the rude hospitality their
situation admitted." Frémont calls the river "Fontaine-qui-bouit" (not
_Bouille_). I understand that Pueblo was known at one time, during the
'40's, as Hardscrabble--a name now given to another place, for which
see a note beyond. I am told by Mr. Maguire that "Jimmy's Camp"--now
the name of a creek above said--was a traditionally well-known place
where one "Jimmy" had a small trading outfit, mainly for the Utes; he
was killed by the Plains Indians. Present Jimmy Camp is a hamlet about
Corral Bluffs, 9 m. due E. of Colorado Springs.
[II-45] This was a slight structure, occupied only for a few days, and
soon disappeared. But it is notable as the first wooden building of an
American in present Colorado, and very probably our flag first flew in
that State over these logs. There was no trace of it to be found in
1819, according to Long. It was built on the S. side of the Arkansaw,
a little above the then confluence of Fountain r., within the present
city of Pueblo (South Pueblo). The precise spot has never been
recovered, and probably never will be. Changes in the river may have
soon washed it away, or left it at some unrecognizable point on the
prairie. The Arkansaw here has suffered great changes in details of
its course, and is liable to inundation: witness the disastrous flood
this year (1894), which almost drowned the city itself. In this
connection I may cite part of an interesting letter with which I am
favored by Mr. C. H. Small of the Board of Trade of Pueblo, whose
knowledge of real estate in that city is probably unsurpassed. It
refers to the discovery by excavation of an old fort which cannot by
any possibility be Pike's, yet in the course of human nature is liable
to become so considered by some, and in due time to enter history as
such. Mr. Small says: "A fort was once built on the south side of the
Arkansas just north of the Farris Hotel--between this hotel and the
Santa Fé R. R. tracks at Union Avenue. The channel of the river
changed in the seventies to a more southerly and straighter course.
The occupants of the fort were all massacred by Indians on one
occasion. In laying a pipe on Union Avenue two years ago [1892], one
or more skeletons were exhumed, doubtless the remains of those
massacred. This was at the depth of ten feet below the present level
of the street, and directly in front of the Farris Hotel; the logs of
the old fort were come upon at the same time. The grade of the street
had been raised five feet, about 1885." Mr. Small's letter is dated
Feb. 23d, 1894. In further correspondence on this subject I am given
to understand that this fort was an adobe structure built by the
American Fur Co., on what is now Union Avenue. On Christmas Day, 1854,
a drunken spree ended in a free fight, in which all the whites were
killed by the Indians but one, who fled to a smaller post on the
Arkansaw at the mouth of the St. Charles, 7 or 8 m. off, whence a
burying-party came next day. For a long time there was also an adobe
tower or lookout on top of the hill, about present intersection of
Second and Summit streets; but it has entirely disappeared.
[II-46] Pike starts up the W. bank of Fountain r., but soon bears N.
W., directly through the present city, in the direction of Turkey cr.
This is a stream which runs (when it runs anywhere) parallel with
Fountain r., 10 to 15 m. further W.; it heads about Cheyenne Peak, the
foremost though not the highest of the Front range in the vicinity of
Pike's Peak. The air-line distance of Pike's Peak from Pueblo is about
50 m.; the distance over any ground by which the summit could be
reached would be as far again. In making this side-trip our hero
proceeds with the determination expressed in the modern slang phrase,
"Pike's Peak or bust!" We must remember that he knew nothing of
mountains, so to speak, from personal experience, and had never in his
life been higher than some pass in the Alleghanies, perhaps about the
elevation of the ground on which he built his breastwork (say 4,700
feet). In the prairie close by Colorado Springs there stands a little
knob, up which a man could run in a few minutes, and which has been
dubbed in derision, "Mt. Washington," because it is exactly as high as
that celebrated peak in the White mts. of New Hampshire--6,288 feet.
Though Pike never surmounted his eternal monument, he overcame all
those dangers, difficulties, and hardships which did "bust" many a
later, less hardy, and less resolute adventurer who "bucked against
the Rockies." Tourists and invalids have now the option of ascending
to the summit of his peak from Colorado Springs by stage, or from
Manitou Springs by the cogwheel railroad, which has been in operation
since July, 1891. By the latter mode of conveyance I have ascended the
Rigi in Switzerland, as well as Mt. Washington in my native State; but
neither of these afforded the sensation I experienced upon the summit
of Pike's Peak, looking far down upon the greatest elevation he
attained on the present excursion. His 12 m. N. W. to-day sets him on
the prairie between Fountain r. and Turkey cr., nearer the latter. The
present road from Pueblo to Turkey cr. strikes the usually dry bed of
the latter at about 17 miles' distance, follows up the E. bank to the
foot of the mountain, crosses there, keeps on past East Turkey cr.
through Dead Man's cañon, crosses the heads of Little Fountain cr.,
and continues to skirt the E. base of the range, past Cheyenne Peak to
Colorado Springs. Up to the cañon, at least, this is exactly the route
Pike took to reach Mt. Cheyenne.
[II-47] In the hilly country along the E. side of Turkey cr., and then
on that creek, heading straight for Cheyenne Peak; camp on the creek
when he came to water, probably about where West Turkey cr. falls in;
altitude perhaps 6,000 feet. The situation is now in the ravine of the
creek, with elevations of 6,500 feet on the right, and others 7,000 to
8,000 feet on the left and ahead. The creek receives small tributaries
from the left all along, each gulch having its little stream, or bed
of one. One of the largest of these is West Turkey cr., running S. E.
from altitudes of about 9,500 feet. Further along comes down the
parallel stream of East Turkey cr., heading S. from Mt. Rosa from
altitudes of about 10,500 feet, and falling in by Dead Man's cañon.
The summit of the Cheyenne mt. is due N. of Pike's present position,
at an air-line distance of 10 or 12 m.; Mt. Rosa bears N. by W.,
somewhat further off. The situation is such that, if Pike should keep
straight ahead, through Dead Man's cañon, he would run across Little
Fountain cr., and proceed to climb Cheyenne mt. from the S.; but if he
should bear to the left, up some one of the Turkey Creek affluents I
have mentioned or alluded to, he would much sooner reach what he would
be likely to call "the summit of the chain" (see text of the
27th)--that is, an altitude of about 9,000 feet, with Mt. Rosa bearing
N. and the summit of Cheyenne mt. N. N. E., each at an air-line
distance of 6 or 8 m. I think this was most probably his route; but do
not see that we have the data to establish the fact.
[II-48] Pike's expectation of climbing his peak and getting back to
his camp on Turkey cr. in one day may serve to console some who have
thought they would like to take a stroll before breakfast to the same
peak from the Antlers Hotel in Colorado Springs. Though Pike's actual
footsteps in these mountains be not recoverable with exactitude, there
is no uncertainty as to _about_ where he was on the 26th and 27th,
when he climbed S. of Mts. Cheyenne and Rosa to an altitude of about
9,000 feet, and then returned. Mt. Cheyenne is the foremost of the
group of peaks in this part of the Front range; it stands out in such
bold relief that uninformed visitors to Colorado Springs often mistake
it for Pike's Peak. But its altitude is only 9,407 or 9,948 feet, as
estimated by different authorities, and thus considerably less than
that of various other peaks in the vicinity. Some of these are:
Cameron Cone, 10,685 or 11,560 feet; Mt. Rosa, 11,427 or 11,572 feet;
Mt. Pisgah, given as 10,487 feet; Pilate Peak, given as 12,420 feet.
The two last named are further W. and S.; Cheyenne, Cameron, and Rosa
form angles of a triangle, E. of Pike's Peak, that "grim sentinel of
the Rockies," as it is styled by some, or the "Grand Peak," as Pike
calls it, which towers over all the rest to the generally accepted
altitude of 14,147 feet. These figures can easily be recalled to mind
if one remembers that twice seven is 14. This peak is due W. of
Colorado Springs, at an air-line distance of 12 m. Visitors are driven
to the summit by way of the Cascade carriage road, running up Cascade
cañon from a point in the Ute Pass 11 m. from Colorado Springs. This
stage route is a trifle over 17 m. from Cascade, or a total of about
28 m. from the Antlers Hotel, Colorado Springs. During the season when
the crop of pink-toed tender-foots is harvested, wagons make the round
trip in one day, 9 a. m.-6 p. m., spending an hour at the Halfway House
and another at the Peak. This is said to be the highest stage-line in
the United States. There is also a road up Bear Creek cañon to the
Seven Lakes, but not to the Peak, and no line of stages is regularly
run on it. The Cheyenne Mountain road also goes to these lakes, and
has been run through to the mining camp on Cripple cr., which lately
made such a noise in Colorado. This is S. W. of the peak, about 18
air-line miles from Colorado Springs. The Pike's Peak Cog Railway
takes a much shorter, steeper, and straighter course than the stage
road, by way of Ingleman cañon and Ruxton cr. The cog line starts from
Manitou, 6¼ m. from Colorado Springs, and is 8¾ m. long. The round
trip is made in about five hours, two hours each way, with one hour
between, on the summit. This is ample time; for tourists find Pike's
Peak a convenient place to leave as soon as they have paid twenty-five
cents for a cup of the worst coffee in the world, and tried in vain to
stand up against a wind of 50 or 60 m. an hour. Those who may be more
interested in Pike's Peak at a distance are referred to a dainty
booklet entitled Legends of the Pike's Peak Region, 8vo, Denver, 1892;
it is full of quaint local lore, especially of the traditions of the
only mountain Pike climbed part way up. Among all the myths that cling
to the Peak, obscuring the facts in the case like the clouds that
mantle the mountain, the very basic one--that one on which the
mountain rests, so to speak--is the universal tradition that the brave
young officer discovered and ascended the Peak which upholds his name.
One wishes that such laurels as he earned and well deserved had been
plucked from an eminence unknown and unattained before. But Pike's
Peak had been long and well known to the Spaniards; it was the Ultima
Thule of their possessions; and for that matter, was not Pike at the
very time in pursuit of the Spanish troops under Malgares, who had
gone along just before him? It is true that Pike, Robinson, Brown, and
Miller--the four whose names are thus linked should be upheld
together--are the first white men known to have come within "the
distance of 15 or 16 miles" of the peak, as it seemed to them, when
the "Grand Peak" appeared "as high again as what we ascended and would
have taken a whole day's march to arrive at its base." This is the
testimony of the hero of the occasion; his evidence is alike incisive
and decisive. So far as we are informed by authentic history, Pike's
Peak was first surmounted by Dr. Edwin James, Mr. Wilson, and two
other men, July 13th and 14th, 1820, during Major S. H. Long's
expedition to the Rocky mts., when it was named James' Peak. When,
where, and by whom the mountain was first called Pike's Peak is
unknown, to me at least; but its earliest appearance in print should
be discoverable. The date is probably somewhere in the '40's, or still
earlier. The name was certainly in verbal use in the '30's. Mr. Oliver
P. Wiggins, now of Denver, who was on the plains in 1838, heard only
"Pike's Peak," as a phrase already in common speech. Gregg's map of
1844 legends "Pikes Peak (or James')." Beckwith's Report of 1853, pub.
1855, p. 30, has only "James'." The alternative names ran parallel for
some years. G. K. Warren states, Pac. R. R. Rep. XI., 1855, p. 24:
"Captain Frémont, in his report and map of explorations in 1843 and
1844, calls it Pike's Peak, probably because it was so called by the
white people in the country at the time": see also George Frederick
Ruxton's Adventures, etc., London, Murray, 1861, but written much
earlier. Governor Alva Adams, in the address already cited, p. 13,
discusses the point as "one of the historical mysteries," and adds:
"The name of Pike's Peak begins to appear in the literature of the
prairies and mountains about the middle of the century, but it was not
irrevocably christened until the Pike's Peak gold excitement, when the
name was fixed to remain as long as men love to listen to stories of
valor." Whether it originated spontaneously or was formally
introduced, it will probably never die; the alliteration of the words
would be enough to keep the phrase in the mouths of the people, let
alone its justice and propriety. As for any Spanish claim which may
hereafter be established respecting prior discovery or ascent of the
peak, the following extract from the Legends already cited is
pertinent: "From Pike's Peak to Popocatepetl the land is a palimpsest,
dotted with ruins of remotest antiquity, the relics of a people whose
records are replete with poetry and strange romance. Their manuscripts
enrich the archives of Mexico and Madrid, and yet we learn but little
of them. They moulder in the missions of the suspicious Spanish
priests, or among the mystic treasures of the Pueblos, and are
decaying unread."
[II-49] The trail of this excursus, as dotted on Pike's map, would be
enough to show how far he was from reaching the summit of the "Highest
Peak" there delineated, in the absence of any other data. Such an
affair as this would never have been understated or underdrawn
intentionally. Yet the dot-line leaves him further from the peak than
I am inclined to think he actually was; but it is obviously incorrect
in detail, and thus no offset to the explicit text. The wide looping
of the trail merely indicates a "round trip" from Pueblo and return.
The only considerable difference in Pike's going and coming was, that
in the latter case he "kept straight down the creek to avoid the
hills," over which he had before trudged. The map exaggerates the size
of Turkey cr., as well as of Fountain r. It is possible that someone
thoroughly familiar with the topography of the mountains at the heads
of Turkey and Little Fountain creeks may yet work out Pike's trail in
exact detail.
[II-50] Up S. bank of the Arkansaw, past places called Goodnight, Rock
Cañon, Vegas, and Meadows; also past Rock and Peck's or Willow Springs
creeks, both S., to a point near but short of the mouth of Turkey cr.,
N.