NEEDLE-WEAVING--RUSSIAN OPEN-WORK--LINKED STITCHES
“A web made fair in the weaving.”
Needle-weaving is a form of decoration common to all countries; it
was practised by primitive peoples and must have preceded embroidery.
It was a means of adding richness and colour much in favour with the
early Egyptians, who decorated their garments with fringes and bands of
needle-weaving. Mummy cloths treated in this way are to be seen in the
British Museum; also specimens of early Coptic work, preserved in the
Victoria and Albert Museum, show that they were in the habit of weaving
little panels and borders with the needle, with which to decorate
their garments. This desire to enrich and decorate with the needle, by
means of colour and pattern, the more important parts of their apparel
followed on the discovery of how to weave cloth, and so we find that
these early workers frequently left out the weft threads and wove in
beautiful patterns, rich in colour, with the needle into these spaces.
Later, little panels, bars and medallions were worked in this way and
inserted into their garments. This needle-weaving, which is practically
tapestry with the needle, seems to have reached a great degree of
perfection in the fifth century. There is very little to distinguish
needle-weaving from tapestry, except that the latter is done with the
shuttle instead of the needle.
This weaving of patterns directly on to the material is fascinating
work. It is so effective, so rich in result, and so charmingly
appropriate to the material; there must always be a certain stiffness
and rigidity in the pattern, caused by the upright warp threads, which
demand simplicity of treatment. Weaving, whether done with needle,
bobbins or shuttle, is just a method of interweaving the warp threads
with the weft; these weft-threads may consist of wools, silks, cottons,
or--decoratively, of raffia, or even gold and silver threads.
This type of work may be applied to all kinds of useful household
articles--table linen, bed linen, cushions, bags, chair backs,
footstools, book covers; also bands and insertions for garments.
There is room for such simple pattern, combined in some cases with
other stitchery, on these and many other articles, where a marginal
decoration is appropriate.
=Description of Frontispiece.=--Plate I. shows a table square worked
on “Titian” canvas of a soft brown tint. The original was 36 inches by
18 inches. The edges of the canvas should be turned up and the spaces
arranged for the needle-weaving and coloured bands before the weft
threads are removed. Allow about 3 inches for the open-work. Cut the
weft threads and pull them out. Fig. 31 shows method of working; begin
at the right-hand corner and weave the pattern over six groups, three
strands in each group--these are worked in gold and yellow; repeat
the same pattern on the opposite side--it simplifies the work and
saves time and trouble if the weaving is done from the ends, working
inwards; thus two similar patterns are woven, one after the other. If
the band of weaving is carefully examined, it will be seen that the
gold-coloured threads form a definite pattern on the background; if
these are woven in first, it will aid the worker and act as a guide
for the interlacing of the other colours. The next group, in lemon
and purple, is worked on nine groups of threads: throughout all these
patterns a group consists of three strands. The purple lines are sewn
in with a back stitch. The third group is formed of a large cross
in orange surrounded with gold-coloured squares, which in turn are
completed with blue squares at the corners.
The fourth, or central group, has two narrow bars on each side, worked
in soft green, blue, purple and gold.
The inner cross of lemon wool with purple and gold can be easily
followed from the plate.
The broad band of needle-weaving is edged by rows of variegated chain
stitch in brown and cream (for the working of which, see Fig. 1, p.
46), and followed by rows of button-hole in orange (Fig. 11).
The wide braid-like line in oriental stitch, along the top, is worked
very closely; along the sides the same stitch is seen with wider
spacing. This stitch is of the herring-bone type--the needle is
inserted vertically, instead of horizontally, as in the case of the
commoner and better-known stitch. It is effective and economical, as
the bulk of the thread is on the surface.
The tassels are of soft brown and bright blue wool hung on to
button-holed loops, for the making of which, see Fig. 57, Chapter
XIII.; and for the tassels, Fig. 41. The ribbon border is worked in
gold and purple silk.
A sideboard runner worked similarly, but with two wide bands of
needle-weaving at each end and rather wider lines of stitchery at the
sides, was made to match this table runner; the light colours of the
border gave a very gay touch to an otherwise sombre room.
Plate II., Fig. N, illustrates another type of open-work which is
practised by the peasantry of Russia. It is interesting and quite
different in appearance from some of the other peasant work. One
distinguishing feature is that two rows are worked in conjunction,
and another is the number of rows and the manner in which they are
worked. This form of open-work deserves to be better known in this
country. The pattern is formed by means of blocks of stitches, which
are not worked in the ordinary darning or weaving stitch but by the
overcasting of laid threads; indeed, with the exception of the first
and final rows--which are hemstitched--the entire work consists of the
overcasting of threads; bars, strands or groups, all are worked from
right to left. The Russian peasantry work most elaborate borders on
handsome linen of an open texture; these borders vary in width from
2 inches to 18 inches, and are applied to all kinds of articles for
household and personal use. This form of open-work is more durable
than the type usually done in this country; indeed, the material is
strengthened by the stitchery rather than weakened, as is frequently
the case with the usual method of treating drawn-thread work.
To work a border similar to Plate II., Fig. N, begin by removing two
threads; work a row of single hemstitch into the space, over four
threads, dividing the material into clusters with six warp threads in
each--the hemstitching is done from left to right in the usual way. To
prepare for the next two rows, leave a narrow bar of five weft threads
and draw out six threads--the number of threads to be removed will,
of course, vary according to the quality of the material, but the
horizontal intervening bars are always narrower than the open spaces.
Begin at the right hand; make the number of upright stitches necessary
to carry the thread to the left of the group, which is to be worked
into a solid block; lay the thread across this group, and returning,
bring the needle out between the first and second cluster of threads,
on the right of the cluster; now put the needle over the laid thread
and bring it out under the laid thread at the next group. Put the
needle over the thread again and bring it out at the left of the entire
group; in other words, overcast the laid thread from right to left of
the group--always pass the needle behind a cluster of threads between
each overcasting stitch; continue to lay the thread and overcast back
until the space is filled, then work one straight stitch over the upper
horizontal bar; overcast one vertical cluster; slip the carrying thread
up behind; work another upright stitch; overcast the second vertical
cluster; again slip the thread up through the back of the stitchery;
then work the upright stitches and repeat the laying and overcasting to
make the solid pattern again. Once the method is acquired, it will be a
simple matter to arrange these solid masses in such a way as to form a
pattern. It is better to prepare and cut the threads of each row just
before working it; there is, in this way, less risk of making mistakes
by cutting the wrong threads. Another reason for preparing the rows
step by step is that the material is easier to hold before the removal
of the weft threads than it would be after they have been withdrawn.
LINKED STITCHES.
=Chain and Tambour Work= (=Fig. 1=).--Chain stitch, which is said to
have come to us from China, has been for a long time little used in
this country. Tambour stitch--in high favour and greatly used by our
grandmothers--was produced later by the machine in such quantities and
in so mechanical and inartistic a manner that it fell into disfavour,
and unfortunately chain stitch--which is practically the same, except
that it is worked with the needle instead of with a crochet hook--fell
with it. Nevertheless, it is a stitch which is most useful and
charming in its even and somewhat monotonous regularity, especially
where a great variety of colour is used and a broad effect is wanted.
A particularly adaptable stitch, it lends itself, on account of its
linked nature, to the following of curves and spirals, outlines and
the filling of circular and oval forms. It can be worked singly--as a
powdering--or in a zig-zag pattern--with two colours at once--which
produces an interesting result (Plate I.), or with a twist. Worked
openly with the needle inserted first to the left then to the right
to give a broader line, it is known as ladder stitch, while twisted
chain, worked closely, is known as rope stitch. Linked chain and cable
chain (Fig. 8) are more elaborate forms of the same stitch. Much of the
beautiful Persian quilting done on linens is worked in chain stitch
on the wrong side, which gives the “quilting,” or back stitch, on the
right side.
=The Working of Tambour Stitch.=--Tambour stitch, though of little use
for small work, might still be employed very effectively as a quilting
stitch, and for large pieces of work, such as table covers or hangings;
it is worked on a frame, and one can quickly acquire facility with the
hook and accuracy in the working of it.
_Method_:--The material is put in a frame; the thread is kept
underneath, where the left hand guides it; a sharp-pointed hook is kept
in the right hand and passed through the material from the surface; it
catches the thread from the under side and bring it up in a loop; the
hook is inserted again and the thread is again brought up in a loop
through the preceding loop.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
=To Work Chain Stitch= (=Fig. 1=).--To work chain stitch, bring the
thread out at the beginning of the line; hold it down with the left
thumb; place the needle into the hole, which the thread already
occupies, and take up a small piece of the material--this will vary
from one-sixteenth to one-eighth of an inch according to the thread and
material; draw the thread through, and the first link of the chain is
complete; insert the needle again at the spot where the thread comes
out and proceed as before. A cord-like effect may be got by overcasting
each link of the chain with another colour: the eye of the needle
should be used, as the overcast stitch is taken over the links only.
=Chain Stitch in Two Colours.=--A variation to a border may be given by
working alternate links of different colour.
_Method_:--Take two threads in the needle, a black and a white, or a
blue and a green, or any two contrasting colours; bring the needle out
at the starting point; hold the black thread, which should be to the
left, under the thumb--the white thread is placed aside out of the way;
insert the needle, as for chain stitch, beside the held thread and draw
through--a chain stitch of black has been formed. Next, hold the white
thread under the thumb, and form the white link, the black thread being
placed aside to the right this time. Work in this way alternate black
and white links; a little manipulation is sometimes required to keep
the thread not in use out of sight (Plate I.).
=Split Stitch.=--Split stitch may be used for very fine work, or for
fixing down laid stitches, for which it is particularly suitable; it
has the appearance of a fine chain stitch, but is in reality a single
stitch which is split, in the process of working, by the needle. Up to
the fourteenth century, it was generally used in figure embroidery to
express form, folds of drapery, and features, and was a stitch well
adapted for the purpose; but as figure embroidery is quite beyond the
scope of this book and the simpler pieces of embroidery it advocates,
it is sufficient perhaps to explain the method of working, rather than
go into the particulars of its history. It is worked from left to right.
_Method_:--Bring the thread to the surface at the left; take a stitch,
one-sixteenth of an inch, to the right with the point of the needle
towards the left; pierce the thread which covers this space and draw
the needle through it, splitting the thread and forming a link-like
stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
=Coral Stitch= (=Fig. 2=).--Coral stitch is a good decorative line
stitch, easily and quickly executed. It is known under several names,
such as snail-trail and knotted stitch, etc. It is composed of single
knots, worked with the connecting thread on the surface; sometimes
the knots are worked so closely together as to have the appearance of
beads, or they may be worked half an inch apart, and in rows, when they
make good lines for filling large spaces or borders.
_Method of working_:--Bring the thread through to the front; place the
left thumb on it, beyond the point where the knot is to be made; take a
stitch under the held thread and at right angles to it; draw the needle
through, still holding the thread under the thumb, and tighten. This
stitch is suitable for working with wools on fine material.
[Illustration: PLATE IV. A PORTIÈRE.]
=Petal or Loop Stitch= (=Fig. 3=).--Another useful stitch is shown
in Fig. 3. It is invaluable for the making of small flowers and
borders, for picking out edges, and for emphasising lines (Plates IV.,
XIII.). The working of a small flower is shown in Figs. 3 and 3A.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3A.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3B.]
_Method_:--Bring the needle out in the centre of the space; insert it
again at the same point; bring it out near the tip of the petal, as in
Fig. 3A, and tack it down with a small stitch.
Larger flowers can be quite artistically worked by beginning with a
small stitch at the foot of the petal, and increasing by successive
stitches until the outline is reached (Fig. 3B). The outer stitch can
be worked in a different colour or tone with pleasing effect. One of
the large conventional flowers in Plate XI. has an outline of these
stitches, while another has the inner circle worked in the same way
(Plate IV.).
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
=Feather Stitch= (=Fig. 4=).--One of the feather stitches, all of which
are composed of button-hole stitches, is illustrated in Fig. 4. It is
worked vertically, a stitch being made alternately from left to right.
The width of the stitch may vary, but it must be regularly worked and
uniform in size, to look well, when it presents a braid-like appearance
which is most ornamental for underlinen and other purposes. The diagram
explains the method of working.
=Fish-bone Stitch= (=Fig. 5=).--Fish-bone stitch is another of the
feather or button-hole type. There are so many variations of those
stitches, which are well known to most needle-women--having been used
for the decoration of underlinen for the last generation or two--that
only a few need be mentioned here.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
Quite a pretty and uncommon variety (Fig. 5) is useful for the filling
of leaf forms, as well as for borders. The stitch appears to be made
up of two long outer and two short inner ones, but as will be seen by
looking carefully at the diagram, there are only two movements. It
is worked just as in Fig. 4, from left to right. It is very easily
worked on loosely-woven material, but where the texture is close, it is
simpler and safer to mark four lines on the material for guidance, two
outer and two inner, the latter closer together.
TO WORK FIG. 5.--Begin to work from one of the central lines--the
one to the right; insert the needle on the left outer line and bring
it out on the left inner line, keeping the working thread under the
needle; continue in this way, working vertically and keeping the
stitches regular and equally spaced. The outside stitches may be made
still longer and closer than those in the diagram with good effects,
particularly when used for a filling for petals and leaves.
=Cretan Stitch.=--A still more pleasing variety, known as Cretan stitch
and frequently seen on Cretan or Eastern embroideries, is worked
similarly in horizontal lines, but the outer and longer stitches are
small, straight and closely worked together, so that it makes an
excellent solid border stitch, which looks very handsome when worked in
metal threads.
=To work Cretan or Oriental Stitch.=--Draw four lines on the material;
start as in Fig. 5, on the right inner line; insert the needle on
the left outer line, and bring it out on the left inner one with
the thread under the needle; take a stitch on the right outer line;
bring it out on the left inner line with the thread under the needle;
continue alternately from left to right, taking care to keep the
stitches exactly below each other. The appearance of the line can be
slightly varied by increasing or decreasing the outer stitches. The
inner plaiting is regulated by the size of the stitches taken on the
outer edges. See Plate I., where the solid blue line enclosed within
the chequered chain-stitched lines is worked in this way. The lines on
either side of the runner show the stitch worked more openly.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
=Link Stitch= (=Fig. 6=).--This is rather an unusual stitch, being
formed of links connected by short stitches. To be effective, it should
be worked with thick twisted thread. It is easily done on a ground
where the warp and weft threads are sufficiently open to guide the
worker, otherwise two lines parallel should be marked from a quarter to
half an inch apart.
[Illustration: FIG. 6A.]
=To work Link Stitch= (=Fig. 6a=).--Begin with the smaller stitches
(Fig. 6A); bring the needle out in the middle of the space to be
covered; insert on the upper edge to the left, and bring out still
further to the left on the lower edge. Pass the eye of the needle down
through the small stitch and insert again on the lower edge slightly
to the left of the previous one; take a vertical stitch upwards and a
little beyond the centre, having the thread under the needle as in Fig.
6; pull the needle through. These three movements complete the stitch,
the thread being now in position to make the first small stitch again.
This stitch is called linked, or knotted chain.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7A.]
=To work Tête de Bœuf= (=Fig. 7=).--Another variation of the loop or
petal stitch is called Tête de Bœuf. Work a loop stitch as Fig. 7A,
then take a stitch across from left to right; bring the needle out
above the stretched thread. Make another loop stitch, which fixes this
in place. This stitch is often used as a powdering. It makes a good
border stitch.
=To work Cable Chain= (=Fig. 8=).--Cable chain can be worked in two
ways. Two guiding lines will be of assistance. Bring the needle out
at the starting point in the middle of the space; form a small loop by
throwing the thread round as Fig. 8; insert the needle in the centre of
this loop, which will vary in size according to the thickness of the
thread and the size of the cable wanted; bring it out about a quarter
of an inch lower down, taking care to keep the thread under the point
of the needle; tighten the small loop to the proper size with the right
hand, then, placing the thumb on the stitch, pull the thread through.
This forms both the small and large link and the thread is in position
to start again. When worked in a firmly twisted thread, such as Knox’s
linen “cord” floss thread, it makes a pretty border or line stitch. A
row of couching makes a good edging and emphasises the line if required.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
By the second method, the small stitch is made first, and the needle
brought out to the surface about a quarter of an inch lower down; put
the needle through the small stitch from left to right and place the
thumb on it; put the needle through the large loop in process of making
from right to left and tighten the thread sufficiently. The small
stitch has now to be made.
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
=Braid Stitch= (=Fig. 9=).--When a fairly heavy line is necessary, Fig.
9 can be used. It has a braid-like appearance, and for that reason is
generally known as braid stitch. Work from right to left and start on
the lower edge. Bring the thread out and place the thumb on it, and
twist the needle round the held thread, so forming a loose twist on it
(Fig. 9A). Then insert the needle in the upper line, a little to the
left of the starting point; bring it out on the lower line, exactly
beneath; place the thread under the needle, and draw through, keeping
the thumb on the stitch till tightened sufficiently to form the link.
[Illustration: FIG. 9A.]