“Quite the contrary; _it is those who use the cheapest food who are

the strongest_. For example, you may, for the most part, see slaves

more sturdy than masters, country-folk than towns-folk, poor than

rich--more able to labour, sinking less at their work, seldomer

ailing, more easily enduring frost, heat, sleeplessness, and the

like. Even if cheap food and dear strengthens the body alike,

still we ought to choose the cheap; for this is more sober and

more suited to a virtuous man; inasmuch as what is easy to procure

is, for good men, more proper for food than what is hard--what is

free from trouble than what gives trouble--what is ready than what

is not ready. To sum up in a word the whole use of diet, I say

that we ought to make its aim health and strength, for these are

the only ends for which we should eat, and they require no large

outlay.”[292]

VI.

LESSIO. 1554-1623,

Born at Brechten, a town in Brabant, of influential family, this noted

Hygeist, at a very early age, exhibited so exceptional a disposition as

to be known among his school-fellows as the “prophet.” His ardour for

learning was so intense as to cause him to forget the hours of meals,

and to reduce his time for sleep to the shortest period possible.

Having obtained a scholarship at the Arras College in Louvain, Lessio

pursued the course of studies there with the greatest success, and by

his fellow-students was proclaimed “prince of philologers.” At the age

of seventeen he entered the Society of Jesus. Two years later he was

elected to the Chair of Philosophy at Douai. In 1585 he accepted the

Professorship of Theology at Louvain.

So extraordinary were the respect and veneration which he had attracted

in his Order and from all who had access to him, that not only did his

death cause the greatest regret, but (as we are assured) his friends

contended among themselves for possession of every possible relic and

memento “of one who had composed so admirable works.” He was interred

before the high altar of the church of his college in Louvain. Held

in high honour during life, after his death so rare an ornament of

his Church was signally eulogised by the Pope, Urbano VIII.; and he

was even believed to have worked miracles. His praises are especially

recorded in a book entitled _De Vitâ et Moribus R. P. Leonardi

Lessii_--reprinted at Paris, 1644.

Principal Writings: _De Justitiâ et de Jure Actionum, Humanarum, &c._

(reprinted seven times). Many of the propositions, it seems, eventually

came under the censure of the Theological Faculty, the Bishops, and the

Pontiffs.

_Quæ Fides et Religio sit Capessenda, Consultatio._ Anvers, 1610.

In the estimation of S. François de Sales, a work “not so much that of

Lessio as of an Angel of the Judgment (Ange du Grand Conseil).”

_Hygiasticon_ (Anvers, 1613-14, 8vo); it is superfluous to remark, his

really valuable work. It was translated from the Latin into French by

Sebastian Hardy, with the title of _Le Vrai Régime de Vivre pour la

Conservation du Corps et de l’Ame_. Paris, 1646. Another editor, _La

Bonnodière_, added notes, republishing it under the title of _De la

Sobriété et de Ses Avantages_. Paris, 1701.

“Lessio,” writes the author of the article in the _Biographie

Universelle_, “having been condemned by the physicians to have no

more than two years longer to live, himself studied the principles of

_Hygiene_, was struck by the example of Cornaro, resolved to imitate

him, and found himself so well from such imitation that he translated

his book (_Della Vita Sobria_), joining to it the results of his own

experience, to which he owed the prolongation of his life by forty

years.” For the rest, he was a man of extensive erudition; and Justus

Lipsius celebrates, in some fine verse, the variety of his talents.

(See _Biog. Universelle Ancienne et Moderne_. À Paris, chez Michaud,

1819.)

The _Hygiasticon_ is prefaced by testimonials from three eminent

physicians, setting forth their concurrence in the principles of the

author. The English translation (1634) has prefixed to it addresses, in

verse, to him; one of which is by Crashaw, the friend of Cowley, and

a _Dialogue between Glutton and Echo_, also in verse. Affixed to this

edition are an English version of Cornaro, by George Herbert, and a

translation of an anonymous treatise by another Italian writer--_That a

Spare Diet is better than a Splendid and Sumptuous One: A Paradox_.

In his chap. v. “Of the Advantages which a Sober Diet brings to the

Body, and first, That it freeth almost from all Diseases”--Lessio

promises the adherents of it, that in the first place:--

“It cloth free a man and preserve him from almost all manner

of diseases. For it rids him of catarrhs, coughs, wheezings,

dizziness, and pain in the head and stomach. It drives away

apoplexies, lethargies, falling-sickness, and other ill-affections

of the brain. It cures the gout in the feet and in the hands; the

sciatica and diseases in the joints. It also prevents crudity

(indigestion), the parent of all diseases. In a word, it so tempers

the humours, and maintains them in an equal proportion, that they

hurt not any way, either in quantity or quality. And this both

reason and experience do confirm. For we see that those who keep

themselves to a sober course of diet are very seldom, or rather

never, molested with diseases; and if at any time they happen to

be oppressed with sickness, _they do bear it much better, and

sooner recover than those others whose bodies are full fraught with

ill-humours_.

“I know very many who, though they be weak by natural constitution,

and well grown in years, and continually busied in employments of

the mind, nevertheless by the help of this temperance, live in

health, and have passed the greater part of their lives, which have

been many years long, without any notable sickness....

“The self-same comes to pass in wounds, bruises, puttings out of

joint, and breaking of bones; in regard that there is either no

flux at all of ill-humours, or, at least, very little of that part

affected.... Furthermore an abstinent diet doth arm and fortify

against the plague; for the venom thereof is much better resisted

if the body be clear and free--wherefore Sokrates brought to pass

that he himself was never sick of the plague, which ofttimes

greatly wasted the city of Athens, where he lived, as Laertius

writeth. The third commodity of the diet is that, although it doth

not cure such diseases as are incurable in their own nature, yet

it doth _so much mitigate and allay them as that they are easily

borne_, and do not much hinder the functions of the mind. This is

seen by daily experience.”

Lessio proceeds to descant upon the other benefits of the reformed

regimen--such as that it prolongs life (other things being equal) to

extreme old age, produces cheerfulness, activity, memory, and the

like.[293]

* * * * *

Moffet, another hygienic writer of the sixteenth century, demands

indignantly:--

“Till God (_i.e._, Superstition or Fraud) would have it so [the

slaying of other animals for food], who dared to touch with his

lips the remnant of a dead carcase? or to set the prey of a wolf,

or the meat of a falcon, upon his table? Who, I say, durst feed

upon those members which, lately, did see, go, bleat, low, feel,

and move?[294]

“Nay, tell me, can civil and human eyes yet abide the slaughter of

an innocent ‘beast,’ the cutting of his throat, the smashing him on

the head, the flaying of his skin, the quartering and dismembering

of his limbs, the sprinkling of his blood, the ripping up of his

veins, the enduring of ill-savours, the heaving of heavy sighs,

sobs, and groans, the passionate struggling and panting for life,

which only hard-hearted butchers can endure to see?

“Is not the earth sufficient to give us meat, but that we must also

rend up the bowels of ‘beasts,’ birds, and fishes? Yes, truly,

there is enough in the earth to give us meat; yea, verily, and

choice of meats, needing either none or no great preparation, which

we may take without fear, and cut down without trembling; which,

also, we may mingle a hundred ways to delight our taste, and feed

on safely to fill our bellies.”--_Health’s Improvement_, by Dr. W.

Moffet (ed. 1746), as quoted by Ritson. The author died in 1604.

* * * * *

The author of the _Anatomy of Abuses_, a writer of the same period,

denouncing the unnatural and luxurious living of his time, compares the

two diets with equal force and truth:--

“I cannot persuade myself otherwise, but that our _niceness_

and _cautiousness_ in diet hath altered our nature, distempered

our bodies, and made us subject to hundreds of diseases and

_discrasies_ (indigestions) more than ever our forefathers were

subject unto, and consequently of shorter life than they.... Who

are sicklier than they who fare deliciously every day? Who is

corrupter? Who belcheth more? Who looketh worse? Who is weaker and

feebler than they? Who hath more filthy phlegm and putrefaction

(replete with gross humours) than they? And, to be brief, who dieth

sooner than they?

“Do we not see the poor man who eateth brown bread (whereof some

is made of rye, barley, _peason_, beans, oats, and such other

gross grains), and drinketh small drink, yea, sometimes water, and

feedeth upon milk, butter and cheese--I say do we not see such a

one healthfuller, stronger, fairer complexioned, and longer-living

than the other that fares daintily every day; and how should it be

otherwise?”--_Stubbes’s Anatomy of Abuses_, 1583. Quoted by Ritson

(_Abstinence from Flesh: A Moral Duty._).

VII.

COWLEY. 1620-1667.

Among the poets of the age second only to Milton and to Dryden. _The

Garden_, from which we extract the following just sentiments, is

prefixed by way of dedication to the _Kalendarium Hortense_ of John

Evelyn, his personal and political friend. _The Gardener’s Almanac_, it

is worthy of note, is one of the earliest prototypes of the numerous

more modern treatises of the kind. It had reached a tenth edition in

1706.

“When Epicurus to the world had taught

That pleasure is the chiefest good,

(And was, perhaps, i’th’ right, if rightly understood),

His life he to his doctrine brought,

And in a garden’s shade that Sovereign pleasure sought:

Whoever a true _Epicure_ would be.

May there find cheap and virtuous luxury.

Vitellius his table which did hold

As many creatures as the ark of old--

That fiscal table to which every day

All countries did a constant tribute pay--

Could nothing more delectable afford

Than Nature’s Liberality--

Helped with a little Art and Industry--

Allows the meanest gardener’s board.

_The wanton Taste no Flesh nor Fowl can choose,

For which the Grape or Melon it would lose,

Though all th’ inhabitants of Earth and Air

Be listed in the Glutton’s bill of fare._

* * * * *

Scarce any Plant is growing here.

Which against Death some weapon does not bear.

Let Cities boast that they provide

For life the ornaments of Pride;

But ’tis the Country and the Field

That furnish it with Staff and Shield.

_The Garden._ Chertsey, 1666.

VIII.

TRYON. 1634-1703.

One of the best known of the seventeenth century humane Hygeists, was

born at Bibury, a village in Gloucestershire. His father was a tiler

and plasterer, who by stress of poverty was forced to remove his son,

when no more than six years of age, from the village school, and to set

him at the work of spinning and carding, (the woollen manufacture being

then extensively carried on in Gloucestershire). At eight years of age

he became so expert, he tells us, as to be able to spin four pounds a

day, earning two shillings a week. At the age of twelve he was made

to work at his father’s employment. At this period he first learned

to read. He next took to keeping sheep. With the sum of three pounds,

realised by the sale of his four sheep, he went to London to seek his

fortune, when seventeen years old, and bound himself apprentice to a

“castor-maker,” in Fleet Street. His master was an Anabaptist--“an

honest and sober man;” and, after two years’ apprenticeship, Tryon

adopted the same religious creed. All his spare time was now devoted

entirely to study; and, with the usual ardour of scholars who depend

upon their own talents and exertions, he scarcely gave any time to food

or sleep. The holiday period, too, spent by his fellow-apprentices in

eating and drinking, and gross amusements, was utilised in the same

way. Science, and Physiology in particular, attracted his attention.

At the age of twenty-three he first adopted the reformed diet, “my

drink being only water, and food only bread and some fruit, and that

but once a day for some time; but afterwards I had more liberty given

me by my guide, Wisdom, to eat butter and cheese; my clothing being

mean and thin; for, in all things, self-denial was now become my real

business.” This strict life he maintained for more than a year, when he

relapsed, at intervals, during the next two years. At the end of this

period he had become confirmed in his reform, and he remained to the

end strictly akreophagist, and, indeed, strictly frugal, “contenting

myself with herbs, fruits, grains, eggs, butter and cheese for food,

and pure water for drink.” About two years after his marriage he made

voyages to Barbadoes and to Holland in the way of trade--“making

beavers.” He finally settled himself in England, and at the age of

forty-eight he published his first book on _Dietetics_.

His brief autobiography, from which the above facts are drawn, ends at

this period. His editor adds, as to his appearance and character: “his

aspect easily discovered something extraordinary; his air was cheerful,

lively, and brisk; but grave with something of authority, though he was

of the easiest access. Notwithstanding he was of no strong make, yet,

through his great temperance, regularity, and by the strength of his

spirits and vigour of his mind, he was capable of any fatigue, even to

his last illness, equally with any of the best constitutions of men

half his years. Through all his lifetime he had been a man of unwearied

application, and so indefatigable that it may be as truly said of him

as it can be of any man that he was never idle; but of such despatch

that, though fortune had allotted him as great multiplicity of business

as, perhaps, to any one of his contemporaries, yet, without any

neglect thereof, he found leisure to make such a search into Nature,

that perhaps few of this age equalled him therein: and not only into

Nature, but also into almost all arts and sciences, of some whereof he

was an improver, and of all innocent and useful ones an encourager and

promoter.”[295]

In spite of that penetration of mind and justness of thought which

influenced him to abandon the cruelty and coarseness of the orthodox

diet, the author of _The Way to Health_ could not free himself from

certain of the credulous fancies of his age; and, it must be admitted,

his writings are by no means exempt from such prejudices. It is as a

moral reformer that he has deserved our respect, and of his numerous

books the following are noteworthy:--

_A Treatise on Cleanliness in Meats and Drinks._ London, 1682.

_The Way to Health, Long Life, &c._ 1683, 1694, 1697. 3 vols., 8vo.

_Friendly Advice to the Gentlemen-Planters of the East and West

Indies._ London, 1684.

_The Way to Make All People Rich: or, Wisdom’s Call to Temperance

and Frugality._ 1685.

_Wisdom’s Doctrine: or, Aphorisms and Rules for Preserving the

Health of the Body and the Peace of the Mind._ 1696.

_England’s Grandeur and the Way to Get Wealth: or, Promotion of

Trade Made Easy and Lands Advanced._ 1699. 4_to._

Nothing can be more just or forcible than these expostulations:--

“Most men will, in words, confess that there is no blessing this

world affords comparable to health. Yet rarely do any of them

value it as they ought to do till they feel the want of it. To

him that hath obtained this goodly gift the meanest food--even

bread and water--is most pleasant, and all sorts of exercise and

labour delightful. But the contrary makes all things nauseous and

distasteful. What are full-spread Tables, Riches, or Honours, to

him that is tormented with distempers? In such a condition men do

desire nothing so much as _Health_. But no sooner is that obtained,

but their thoughts are changed, forgetting those solemn promises

and resolutions they made to God and their own souls, going on in

the old road of _Gluttony_, taking little or no care to continue

that which they so much desired when they were deprived of it.

“Happy it were if men did but use the tenth part of that care and

diligence to preserve their minds and bodies in Health, as they

do to procure those dainties and superfluities which do generate

Diseases, and are the cause of committing many other evils, there

being but few men that do know how to use riches as they ought.

For there are not many of our wealthy men that ever consider that

as little and mean food and drink will suffice to maintain a

_lord_ in perfect health as it will a _peasant_, and render him

more capable of enjoying the benefits of the Mind and pleasures

of the Body, far beyond all ‘dainties and superfluities.’ But,

alas! the momentary pleasures of the _Throat-Custom_, vanity,

&c., do ensnare and entice most people to exceed the bounds of

necessity or convenience; and many fail through a false opinion or

misunderstanding of Nature--childishly imagining that the richer

the food is, and the more they can cram into their bellies, the

more they shall be strengthened thereby. But experience shews to

the contrary; for are not such people as accustom themselves to the

richest foods, and most _cordial_ drinks, generally the most infirm

and diseased?

“Now the sorts of foods and drinks that breed the best blood and

finest spirits, are Herbs, Fruits, and various kinds of Grains;

also Bread, and sundry sorts of excellent food made by different

preparations of Milk, and all dry food out of which the sun hath

exhaled the gross humidity, by which all sorts of Pulses and Grains

become of a firmer substance. So, likewise, Oil is an excellent

thing, in nature more sublime and pure than Butter.” ...

As to the unsuspected cause of the various diseases so abundant:--

“Many of the richest sort of people in this nation might know by

woful experience, especially in London, who do yearly spend many

hundreds, I think I may say thousands, of pounds on their _ungodly

paunches_. Many of whom may save themselves that charge and trouble

they are usually at in learning of _Monsieur Nimble-heels_, the

Dancing-Master, how to go upright; for their bellies are swollen up

to their chins, which forces them ‘to behold the sky,’[296] but not

for contemplation sake you may be sure, but out of pure necessity,

and without any more impressions of reverence towards the Almighty

Creator than their fellow-brutes; for their brains are sunk into

their bellies; _injection and ejection_ is the business of their

life, and all their precious hours are spent between the platter

and the glass and the close-stool. Are not these fine fellows to

call themselves _Christians_ and _Right-Worshipfuls_.”[297]

In his xiv chapter, “Of Flesh and its Operation on the Body and Mind,”

Tryon employs all his eloquence in proving that the practice of

slaughtering for food is not only cruel and barbarous in itself, but

originates, or, at all events, intensifies the worst passions of men.

Eulogising the milder manners of the followers of Pythagoras, and of

the Hindus generally, he tells his countrymen that:--

“The very same, and far greater, advantages would come to

pass amongst Christians, if they would cease from contention,

oppression, and (what tends and disposes them thereunto) the

killing of other animals, and eating their flesh and blood; and,

in a short time, human murders and devilish feuds and cruelties

amongst each other would abate, and, perhaps, scarce have a

being amongst them. For _separation_ has greater power than most

imagine, whether it be from evil or from good; for whatever any

man separates himself from, that property in him presently is

weakened. Likewise, _separation_ from cruelty does wonderfully

dispel the dark clouds of ignorance, and makes the understanding

able to distinguish between the good and evil principles--first in

himself, and then in all other things proportionably. But so long

as men live under the power of all kinds of uncleanness, violence,

and oppression, they cannot see any evil therein. For this cause,

those who do not separate themselves from these evils, but are

contented to follow the multitude in the left-hand-way, and resolve

to continue the religion of their fore-fathers--though thereby they

do but continue mere _Custom_, the greatest of tyrants--’tis, I

say, impossible for such people ever to understand or know anything

_truly_, either of divine or of human things....

“It is a grand mistake of people in this age to say or suppose:

That Flesh affords not only a stronger nourishment, but also more

and better than Herbs, Grains, &c.; for the truth is, it does yield

more stimulation, _but not of so firm, a substance, nor so good

as that which proceeds from the other food_; for flesh has more

matter for corruption, and nothing so soon turns to putrefaction.

Now, ’tis certain, such sorts of food as are subject to putrify

_before_ they are eaten, are also liable to the same afterwards.

Besides, Flesh is of soft, moist, gross, phlegmy quality, and

generates a nourishment of a like nature; thirdly, Flesh heats the

body, and causeth a drought; fourthly, Flesh does breed great store

of noxious humours; fifthly, it must be considered that ‘beasts’

and other living creatures are subject to diseases[298] and many

other inconveniences, and uncleannesses, surfeits, over-driving,

abuses of cruel butchers, &c., which renders their flesh still more

unwholesome. But on the contrary, all sorts of dry foods, as Bread,

Cheese, Herbs, and many preparations of Milk, Pulses, Grains, and

Fruits; as their original is more clean, so, being of a sound firm

nature, they afford a more excellent nourishment, and more easy

of concoction; so that if a man should exceed in quantity, the

Health will not, thereby, be brought into such danger as by the

superfluous eating of flesh....

“What an ill and ungrateful sight is it to behold dead carcasses,

and pieces of bloody, raw, flesh! It would undoubtedly appear

dreadful, and no man but would abhor to think of putting it in

his mouth, had not Use and Custom from generation to generation

familiarised it to us, which is so prevalent, that we read in some

countries the mode is to eat the bodies of their dead parents

and friends, thinking they can no way afford them a more noble

sepulchre than their own bowells. And because it is _usual_, they

do it with as little regret or nauseousness as others have when

they devour the leg of a Rabbit or the wing of a Lark. Suppose a

person were bred up in a place where it were not a _custom_ to kill

and eat flesh, and should come into our Leadenhall Market, or view

our Slaughter Houses, and see the communication we have with dead

bodies, and how blythe and merry we are at their funerals, and

what honourable sepulchres we bury the dead carcasses of beasts

in--nay, their very guts and entrails--would he not be filled with

astonishment and horror? Would he not count us cruel monsters, and

say we were _brutified_, and performed the part of beasts of prey,

to live thus on the spoils of our fellow-creatures?

“Thus, Custom has awakened the inhuman, fierce nature, which makes

killing, handling, and feeding upon flesh and blood, without

distinction, so easy and familiar unto mankind. And the same is

to be understood of men killing and oppressing those of their own

kind; for do we not see that a soldier, who is trained up in the

wars of bloody-minded princes, shall kill a hundred men without any

trouble or regret of spirit, and such as have given him no more

offence than a sheep has given the butcher that cuts her throat.

If men have but Power and Custom on their side, they think all is

well.”

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