they be tender. Then take them out and peel them, and scrape off the pulp,
which pass through a strainer; and when it is cold enough to every pound
put three quarters of a pound of double refined Sugar in subtile powder;
work them well together into an uniform paste; then make little cakes of
it, and dry them in a stove. If you would have the Cakes red, put a little
(very little; the colour will tell you, when it is enough) of juyce of
barberies to the paste or pulp. You have the juyce of Barberries thus: Put
them ripe into a pot over the fire, till you see the juyce sweat out. Then
strain them, and take the clear juyce. If you would have the paste tarter,
you may put a little juyce of Limons to it.
A pleasant Gelly in the beginning of the winter is made, of Pearmains,
Pippins and juyce of Quinces. Also a Marmulate made of those Apples, and
juyce of Quinces, is very good.
A SMOOTHENING QUIDDANY OR GELLY OF THE CORES OF QUINCES
Take only the Cores, and slice them thin, with the seeds in them. If you
have a pound of them, you may put a pottle of water to them. Boil them,
till they be all Mash, and that the water hath drawn the Mucilage out of
them, and that the decoction will be a gelly, when it is cold. Then let it
run through a widestrainer or fitcolender (that the gross part may remain
behind, but all the slyminess go through), and to every pint of Liquor take
about half a pound of double refined Sugar, and boil it up to a gelly. If
you put in a little juyce of Quince, when you boil it up, it will be the
quicker.
You may also take a pound of the flesh of Quinces (when you have not cores
enow, to make as much as you desire) and one ounce of seeds of other
Quinces, and boil them each a part, till the one be a strong decoction; the
other a substantial Mucilage. Then strain each from their course _fæces:_
and mingle the decoctions, and put Sugar to them, and boil them up to a
Gelly.
Or with the flesh and some juyce of Quinces, make Marmulate in the Ordinary
way; which whiles it is boiling, put to it the Mucilage of the seeds to
Incorporate it with the Marmulate. You may take to this a less proportion
of Sugar than to my Marmulate.
MARMULATE OF CHERRIES
Take four pound of the best Kentish Cherries, before they be stoned, to one
pound of pure loaf Sugar, which beat into small Powder: stone the Cherries,
and put them into your preserving pan over a gentle fire, that they may not
boil, but resolve much into Liquor. Take away with the spoon much of the
thin Liquor, (for else the Marmulate will be Glewy) leaving the Cherries
moist enough, but not swimming in clear Liquor. Then put to them half your
Sugar, and boil it up quick, and scum away the froth that riseth. When that
is well Incorporated and clear, strew in a little more of the Sugar; and
continue doing so by little and little, till you have put in all your
Sugar; which course will make the colour the finer. When they are boiled
enough, take them off, and bruise them with the back of a spoon; and when
they are cold, put them up in pots.
You may do the same with Morello Cherries; which will have a quicker-tast,
and have a fine, pure, shining, dark colour.
Both sorts will keep well all the year.
MARMULATE OF CHERRIES WITH JUYCE OF RASPES AND CURRANTS
Mingle juyce of Raspes and red Currants with the stoned Cherries, and boil
this mixture into Marmulate, with a quarter, or at most, a third part of
Sugar. The juyces must be so much as to make Gelly of them to mingle
handsomely with the Cherries, to appear among and between them.
Madam Plancy (who maketh this sweet-meat for the Queen) useth this
proportion. Take three pounds of Cherries stoned; half a pound of clear
juyce of raspes, and one pound of the juyce of red currants, and one pound
of fine Sugar. Put them all together into the preserving pan; boil them
with a quick fire, especially at the first, skimming them all the while, as
any scum riseth. When you find them of a fit consistence, with a fine clear
gelly, mingled with the Cherries, take the preserving pan from the fire,
and braise the Cherries with the back of your preserving spoon; and when
they are of a fit temper of coolness, pot them up.
Peradventure, to keep all the year, there may be requisite a little more
Sugar.
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT SYRUP OF APPLES
Slice a dozen or twenty Pippins into thin slices, and lay them in a deep
dish, _stratum super stratum,_ with pure double refined Sugar in powder.
Put two or three spoonfuls of water to them, and cover them close with
another dish, luting their joyning that nothing may expire. Then set them
into an oven. And when you take out the dish, you will have an excellent
Syrup, and the remaining substance of the Apples will be insipid.
You may proceed with Damsens, or other plumms, in the same manner, and you
will have excellent stewed Damsens, (as fair as preserved ones) swimming in
a very fine Syrup.
SWEET-MEATS OF MY LADY WINDEBANKS
She maketh the past of Apricocks (which is both very beautiful and clear,
and tasteth most quick of the fruit) thus, Take six pound of pared and
sliced Apricocks, put them into a high pot, which stop close, and set it in
a kettle of boiling water, till you perceive the flesh is all become an
uniform pulp; then put it out into your preserving pan or possenet, and
boil it gently till it be grown thick, stirring it carefully all the while.
Then put two pound of pure Sugar to it, and mingle it well, and let it boil
gently, till you see the matter come to such a thickness and solidity, that
it will not stick to a plate. Then make it up into what form you will. The
like you may do with Raspes or Currants.
It is a pleasant and beautiful sweet meat to do thus: Boil Raspes in such a
pot, till they be all come to such a Liquor; Then let the clear run through
a strainer; to a pound, or English wine pint whereof, put a pound of red
Currants (first stoned and the black ends cut off) and a pound of Sugar.
Boil these, till the Liquor be gellied. Then put it in Glasses. It will
look like Rubies in clear Gelly. You may do the like with Cherries, either
stoned, and the stalks cut off, or three or four capped upon one stalk, and
the stone left in the first, and boiled in Liquor of Raspes.
She makes her curious red Marmulate thus: Take six pounds of Quince-flesh;
six pounds of pure Sugar; and eight pints of juyce; boil this up with quick
fire, till you have scummed it, then pull away all the Coals, and let it
but simper, for four or five hours, remaining covered, renewing from time
to time so little fire, as to cause it so to continue simpring. But as soon
as it is scummed, put into it a handful of Quince kernels, two races of
Ginger sliced, and fourteen or fifteen Cloves whole; all these put into a
Tyffany-bag tyed fast; when you finde that the colour is almost to your
minde, make a quick fire, and boil it up a pace, then throw away your bag
of kernels, Ginger and Cloves, and pot up your Marmulate, when it is cool
enough.
She makes her red Gelly of Quince thus: Put the Quinces pared and sliced
into a pot, as above; and to every pound of this flesh put about half a
demistier of fair water, and put this into a kettle of boiling water, till
you perceive all the juyce is boiled out of the Quince. Then strain it out,
and boil this Liquor (which will not yet be clear) till you perceive it
gellieth upon a plate. Then to every pint of Liquor put a pound of Sugar,
and boil it up to a gelly, skimming it well, as the scum riseth, and you
will have a pure gelly.
GELLY OF RED CURRANTS
Take them clean picked, and fresh gathered in the morning, in a bason, set
them over the fire, that their juyce may sweat out, pressing them all the
while with the back of your preserving spoon, to squeese out of them all
that is good. When you see all is out, strain the Liquor from them, and let
it stand to settle four or five hours, that the gross matter may sink to
the bottom. Then take the pure clear, (the thick settling will serve to add
in making of Marmulate of Cherries, or the like) and to every pint or pound
of it, put three quarters of a pound of the purest refined Sugar, and boil
them up with a quick fire, till they come to a gelly height (which will be
done immediately in less then a quarter of an hour) which you may try with
a drop upon a plate. Then take it off, and when it is cold enough, put it
into Glasses. You must be careful to skim it well in due time, and with
thin brown Paper to take off the froth, if you will be so curious.
GELLY OF CURRANTS, WITH THE FRUIT WHOLE IN IT
Take four pound of good Sugar, clarifie it with whites of Eggs, then boil
it up to a candid height (that is, till throwing it, it goeth into
flakes): Then put into it five pound (or at discretion) of pure juyce of
red Currants first boiled to clarifie it by skimming it. Boil them together
a little while, till it be well scummed, and enough to become gelly. Then
put a good handful or two of the berries of Currants whole, and cleansed
from the stalks and black ends, and boil them a little till they be enough.
You need not to boil the juyce, before you put it to the Sugar, and
consequently do not scum it before the Sugar and it boil together: but then
scum it perfectly: and take care before, that the juyce be very clear and
well strained.
MARMULATE OF RED CURRANTS
Take some juyce of red Currants, and put into it a convenient proportion of
some entire Currants cleansed from the stalks and buttons at the other end.
Let these boil a little together. Have also ready some fine Sugar boiled to
a candy height. Put of this to the Currants at discretion, and boil them
together, till they be enough: and bruise them with the back of your spoon,
that they may be in the consistence of Marmulate (like that of Cherries)
which put in pots, when it is cool enough. You do not stone the whole
Currants put into the juyce, unless you please.
SUCKET OF MALLOW STALKS
To candy or preserve the tender stalks of Mallows, do thus; Take them in
the spring, when they are very young and tender; and peel off the strings
that are round about the outside, as you do French-beans, and boil them,
till they are very tender. In the mean time prepare a high Syrup of pure
Sugar, and put the boiled stalkes into it, whiles it is boiling hot, but
taken from the fire. Let them lie soaking there till the next morning. Then
take out the stalks, and heat the Syrup again, scalding hot, and return the
stalks into it, letting them lie there till next morning; (Note, that the
stalks must never boil in the Syrup,) Repeat this six, or eight, or nine
times, that is to say, till they are sufficiently Imbibed with the Syrup.
When they are at this pass, you may either keep them as a wet sucket in
Syrup, or dry them in a stove upon Papers, turning them continually, in
such sort as dried sweet-meats are to be made. I like them best dry, but
soft and moist within _(Medullosi)_ like Candied Eryngos. In Italy they eat
much of them, for sharpness and heat of Urine, and in Gonorrhoea's to take
away pain in Urining.
A Sucket is made in like manner of the Carneous substance of stalks of
Lettice. It is the knob, out of which the Lettice groweth, which being
pared, and all the tough rind being taken off, is very tender and so it is
a pretty way downwards the root. This also is very cooling and smoothing.
In Italy these tender stalks of Mallows are called _Mazzocchi_, and they
eat them (boiled tender) in Sallets, either hot or cold, with Vinegar and
Oyl, or Butter and Vinegar, or juyce of Oranges.
CONSERVE OF RED ROSES
Doctor Glisson makes his conserve of red Roses thus: Boil gently a pound of
red Rose leaves (well picked, and the Nails cut off) in about a pint and a
half (or a little more, as by discretion you shall judge fit, after having
done it once; The Doctors Apothecary takes two pints) of Spring water; till
the water have drawn out all the Tincture of the Roses into it self, and
that the leaves be very tender, and look pale like Linnen; which may be in
a good half hour, or an hour, keeping the pot covered whiles it boileth.
Then pour the tincted Liquor from the pale Leaves (strain it out, pressing
it gently, so that you may have Liquor enough to dissolve your Sugar) and
set it upon the fire by it self to boil, putting into it a pound of pure
double refined Sugar in small Powder; which as soon as it is dissolved, put
in a second pound; then a third, lastly a fourth, so that you have four
pound of Sugar to every pound of Rose-leaves. (The Apothecary useth to put
all the four pounds into the Liquor altogether at once,) Boil these four
pounds of Sugar with the tincted Liquor, till it be a high Syrup, very near
a candy height, (as high as it can be, not to flake or candy) Then put the
pale Rose-leaves, into this high Syrup, as it yet standeth upon the fire,
or immediately upon the taking it off the fire. But presently take it from
the fire, and stir them exceeding well together, to mix them uniformly;
then let them stand till they be cold; then pot them up. If you put up your
Conserve into pots, whiles it is yet throughly warm, and leave them
uncovered some days, putting them in the hot Sun or stove, there will grow
a fine candy upon the top, which will preserve the conserve without paper
upon it, from moulding, till you break the candied crust, to take out some
of the conserve.
The colour both of the Rose-leaves and the Syrup about them, will be
exceeding beautiful and red, and the taste excellent; and the whole very
tender and smoothing, and easie to digest in the stomack without clogging
it, as doth the ordinary rough conserve made of raw Roses beaten with
Sugar, which is very rough in the throat. The worst of it is, that if you
put not a Paper to lie always close upon the top of the conserve, it will
be apt to grow mouldy there on the top; especially _aprés que le pot est
entamé_.
The Conserve of Roses, besides being good for Colds and Coughs, and for the
Lunges, is exceeding good for sharpness and heat of Urine, and soreness of
the bladder, eaten much by it self, or drunk with Milk, or distilled water
of Mallows, and Plantaine, or of Milk.
ANOTHER CONSERVE OF ROSES
Doctor Bacon related to me, that Mr. Minito the Roman Apothecary, made him
some conserve of Roses, in this manner. He took twelve pounds (of sixteen
Ounces to the pound) of the best lump or Kitchin Sugar, and clarified it
very well with whites of Eggs, using Spring-water in doing this. He made
his reckoning, that his twelve pound of Sugar, came to be but nine pound,
when all the scum was taken away, and the Sugar perfectly clarified. Boil
it then to a Syrup, and when it is about half boiled, go roundly about your
Rose-leaves. They must be picked and the white nails cut off before-hand;
but begin not to beat them before your Syrup is half boiled. Then put
thirty Ounces (which is two pound and an half of Roses to every pound of
such Sugar) of your Red-Roses into the Mortar, and beat them well,
squeesing into them, as you beat them, some of the subtilest and best part
(which comes out first) of about two Limons, which brings out their colour
finely. You must have finished beating your Roses, by then the Sugar is
come by boiling to a high Syrup (for if you should let them lie still in
the Air, but a little while, they would grow black, and of ill colour) then
with your ladle put the Roses to the Sugar, and stir them very well in it,
to Incorporate all well and uniformly together. So let them boil on gently
(for all this while you take not your preserving pan from the fire, and a
thick scum of the Roses will rise, which you scum off from time to time
continually as it comes up, and reserve this in a pot by it self, for it
will be good hard Sugar of Roses, and may be about an eight or ninth part
of the whole. After it is clear from scum, and hath boiled near a quarter
of an hour with the Roses in it, and that you see by a drop upon a plate,
that it is of a due consistence; take your pan from the fire, and stir all
very well together, and put it into pots, which leave uncovered during ten
or twelve days, setting them in the hot strong Sun all the day long during
that time, to give the Roses a fine hard crust or candy at the top; but
under it, in the substance of the matter, it will be like a fine clear
Syrupy gelly. If the Sun favour you not, then you may use a stove. After
twelve days, tie covers of Paper, upon the pots.
Doctor Bacon useth to make a pleasant Julep of this Conserve of Roses, by
putting a good spoonful of it into a large drinking glass or cup; upon
which squeese the juyce of a Limon, and clip in unto it a little of the
yellow rinde of the Limon; work these well together with the back of a
spoon, putting water to it by little and little, till you have filled up
the glass with Spring-water: so drink it. He sometimes passeth it through
an Hypocras bag, and then it is a beautiful and pleasant Liquor.
_FINIS_
THE TABLE[2]
A
Scotch Ale from my Lady Holmbey 98
To make Ale drink quick 100
A very pleasant drink of Apples 100
Ale with Honey 104
Small Ale for the stone 105
Apple drink with Sugar, Honey, &c. 106
Master Webbs Ale and Bragot 107
To stew Apples 201
Apples in Gelly 234
Sweet-meat of Apples 238
To make an excellent syrup of Apples 253
B
Stewed Broth 125
Portugal Broth, as it was made for the Queen 127
Nourishing Broth 133
Broth and Potage 141
Broth for sick and convalescent Persons 143
A savoury and nourishing boiled Capon 133
To stew Beef 150
To stew a Rump of Beef 163, 196, 197
To rost Wilde Boar 168
About making of Brawn 205
To bake Beef 208
To boil Beef or Venison 209
Ordering Bacon for Gambons, and to keep 212
To make Bisket 219
C
To make Cider 100
Sir Paul Neal's way of making Cider 101
Dr. Harvey's pleasant Water Cider, whereof he used to drink much, making it
his ordinary drink 103
A good Dish of Cream 116
An excellent Spanish Cream 116
Another Clouted Cream 117
My Lord of St. Alban's Cresme Fouettee 119
To make the Cream Curds 120
The Queens Barley Cream 139
Capon in White-broth 146
To make Cock-Ale 147
Savoury Collops of Veal 157
To pickle Capons my Lady Portland's way 159
Scotch Collops 167
Excellent good Collops 171
My Lady Diana Porter's Scotch Collops 181
Cream with Rice 191
Pickled Champignons 200
Sallet of cold Capon Rosted 206
To make Cheese cakes 214
Short and crisp Crust for Tarts and Pyes 215
To make a Cake 216
To make a Caraway-Cake 219
Excellent small Cakes 221
To make scalded Cheese 227
The Cream-Courds 228
Savoury tosted or melted Cheese 228
To feed Chicken 228
To fatten young Chicken in a wonderful degree 231
An excellent way to Cram Chicken 233
Gelly of Red Currants 255
Gelly of Currants with the fruit whole in it 255
D
To bake wilde Ducks or Teals 210
To Rost wilde Ducks 211
E
To butter Eggs with Cream 147
Portuguez Eggs 202
To boil Eggs 203
F
Wheaten Flomery 134
A Fricacee of Lamb-stones, &c. 158
To boil smoaked Flesh 164
A Fricacee of Veal 158, 182
Butter and Oyl to fry Fish 193
A Flomery-Caudle 238
G
Smallage Gruel 137
About water Gruel 138
An excellent and wholesome water Gruel with Wood sorrel and Currants 139
Gruel of Oatmeal and Rice 191
To make clear Gelly of Bran 203
An excellent meat of Goose or Turkey 212
To pickle an old fat Goose 212
H
Some Notes upon Honey 8
My Lord Hollis Hydromel 33
Hydromel as I made it weak for the Q. Mother 35
To make Honey drink 84
Weak Honey drink 107
To make an Hotchpot 149, 150
The Queens Hotchpot 151
A nourishing Hachy 158
Red Herrings boiled 173
To season Humble Pyes 210
To make Harts-horn Gelly 239-242
L
To dress Lampreys 184
M
Master Corsellises Antwerp Meath 9
To make excellent Meathe 10
A weaker, but very pleasant Meathe 11
An excellent white Meathe 11
Master Webbes Meathe 14-19
My own considerations for making of Meathe 19
My Lady Gower's white Meathe 26
Strong Meathe 32
A Receipt for making of Meathe 32
My Lord Morice's Meathe 39
My Lady Morice her Sisters Meathe 39
To make white Meath 41
Sir William Paston's Meathe 41
Another way of making Meathe 42
Sir Baynam Throckmorton's Meathe 42
My Lady Bellassises Meathe 45
My Lord Gorge his Meathe 54
Several sorts of Meathe, small and strong 56
To make Meathe 57
Sir John Arundel's white Meathe 57
To make a Meathe good for the Liver and Lungs 59
A very good Meathe 60
My Lord Herbert's Meathe 68
To make small white Meathe 80
Meathe from the Muscovian Ambassadour's Steward 81
Meathe with Raisins 96
A Receipt to make Metheglin as it is made at Liege, communicated by Mr.
Masillon 5
White Metheglin of my Lady Hungerfords which is exceedingly praised 6
A Receipt to make a Tun of Metheglin 12
The Countess of Bullingbrook's white Metheg. 13
Metheglin composed by myself 25
Sir Thomas Gower's Metheglin for health 27
Metheglin for taste and colour 28
An excellent way of making white Metheglin 30
Several ways of making Metheglin 35
To make white Metheglin 31
Another Metheglin 46
Mr. Pierce's excellent white Metheglin 46
An excellent way to make Metheglin, called the Liquor of Life 51
To make good Metheglin 52
To make white Metheglin of Sir J. Fortescue 53
The Lady Vernon's white Metheglin 55
To make Metheglin 58
A most excellent Metheglin 61
To make white Metheg. of the Count. of Dorset 62
To make small Metheglin 69
The Earl of Denbigh's Metheglin 85
To make Metheglin that looks like White Wine 90
Metheglin, or sweet-drink of my Lady Stuart 93
A Metheg. for the Colick-Stone, of the same Lady 93
A Receipt for Metheglin of my Lady Windebanke 94
Marrow sops with Wine 145
To make a shoulder of Mutton like Venison 163
An excellent way of making Mutton steaks 170
To make Mustard 194
For roasting of Meat 196
Mutton baked with Venison 207
My Lord of Denbigh's Almond March-pane 221
Marmulate of Pippins 243
White Marmulate, the Queens way 248
My Lady of Bath's way 248
Marmulate of Cherries 251
Marmulate of Red Currants 256
O
A plain but good Spanish Oglia 164
To stew Oysters 183
P
Excellent Marrow-Spinage Pasties 159
To make a French Barley Posset 160
To make Puff-past 161
To make a Pudding with Puff past 161
To make Pear Puddings 162
Marrow Puddings 162
To make excellent Black Puddings 165
A Receipt to make White Puddings 166
To make an excellent Pudding 166
Pyes 168
To make Pith Puddings 172
An Oat-meal Pudding 174
To make Call Puddings 174
A Barley Pudding 175
A Pippin Pudding 175
To make a baked Oat-meal Pudding 176
A plain quaking Pudding 176
A good quaking Bag Pudding 177
To preserve Pippins in Jelly 180
To dress Poor-John, and Buckorn 187
To dress Parsneps 190
To butter Pease 191
A Herring Pye 192
To make an excellent Hare Pye 207
To bake Pidgeons, Teals or Wild ducks 209
Green-Geese Pye 209
To make a plain ordinary Posset 112
Concerning Potages 121
Plain savoury English Potage 122
Potage de blanc de Chapon 123
Ordinary Potage 124
Barley Potage 125
An English Potage 126
Another Potage 126
Nourissant Potage de santé 128
Potage de santé 129, 130
Good nourishing Potage 133
Pap of Oat-meal 135
Panado 135
Barley Pap 135
Oat-meal Pap. Sir John Colladon 136
Pressis-Nourissant 140
Pan-Cotto 141
My Lord Lumley's Pease-Potage 142
An excellent Posset 144
Pease of the seedy buds of Tulips 145
To make Plague-Water 147, 148
An excellent baked Pudding 154
My Lady of Portland's Minced Pyes 155
Minced Pyes 156
To feed Poultry 229
To feed Partridges that you have taken wilde 233
To make Puffs 234
Gelly of Pippins or John-Apples 236
Q
To keep Quinces all the year good 149
Gelly of Quinces 243
Preserved Quince with Gelly 245
To make fine white Gelly of Quinces 246
Paste of Quinces 248, 250
A smoothening Quiddany or Gelly of the Cores of Quinces 250
R [Transcribers note: R was missing in the original.]
Rice & Orge mondé 137
Boiled Rice dry 145
To Rost fine Meat 157
To make Red-Dear 163
Conserve of Red Roses 257, 259
S
Sack with Clove gilly-flowers 22
To make Stepponi 106
To make a Sack-posset 111
A Barley Sack-posset 113
My Lord of Carlile's Sack-posset 115
A Syllabub 115
To make a whip Syllabub 120
To make Spinage-broth 123
Sauce of Horse-Radish 151
Very good Sauce for Partridges and Chicken 160
To dress Stock-fish 186, 188
To prepare Shrimps for dressing 193
To make Slip-coat-Cheese 223-227
Sweet-meats of my Lady Windebanks 253
Sucket of Mallow-stalks 256
T
Tea with Eggs 132
A Tansy 183, 213, 214
To souce Turkeys 211
Pleasant Cordial Tablets 238
V
To stew a breast of Veal 150
Vuova Lattate 165
Vuova Spersa 165
Baked Venison 169
Tosts of Veal 193
W
Morello Wine 97
Currants Wine 98
The Countess of Newport's Cherry Wine 109
Strawberry Wine 109
To make Wine of Cherries alone 110
To make Rasbery-Wine 148
To make a White-pot 149, 195
Buttered Whitings with Eggs 187
To stew Wardens or Pears 201
Preserved Wardens 237