that so their appetites may be fresh to the others, when they are weary of
the present. Sometimes dry wheat; Sometimes wheat soaked two or three days
in water, to make it soft and tender; Sometimes barley so used; Sometimes
oats in like manner. Give them continually to lie by them; Some of the
great green leaves of Cabbages, that grow at the bottom of the stalk, and
that are thrown away, when you gather the Cabbage; which you may give them
either whole or a little chopped. Give them often Ants and their Eggs,
laying near them the inward mould of an Ant hill, taken up with the Ants in
it.
TO MAKE PUFFS
Take new milk Curds, strained well from the whey; then rub them very well;
season them with Nutmeg, Mace, Rose-water and Sugar; then take an Egg or
two, a good piece of Butter, and a handful of flower; work all together,
and make them into Balls; bake them in an oven, upon sheets of Paper; when
they are baked, serve them up with butter melted and beaten with Rose-water
and Sugar. In stead of flower, you may take fine grated-bread, dried very
well, but not Crisp.
APPLES IN GELLY
My Lady Paget makes her fine preserved Pippins, thus: They are done best,
when Pippins are in their prime for quickness, which is in November. Make
your Pippin-water as strong as you can of the Apples, and that it may be
the less boiled, and consequently the paler, put in at first the greatest
quantity of pared and quartered Apples, the water will bear. To every Pint
of Pippin-water add (when you put the Sugar to it) a quarter of a pint of
fair spring-water, that will bear soap (of which sort only you must use)
and use half a pound of Sugar, the purest double refined. If you will have
much gelly, two Pippins finely pared and whole, will be enough; you may put
in more, if you will have a greater proportion of substance to the gelly.
Put at first but half the Sugar to the Liquor; for so it will be the paler.
Boil the Apples by themselves in fair water, with a very little Sugar, to
make them tender; then put them into the liquor, and the rest, the other
half of the Sugar with them. Boil them with a quick fire, till they be
enough, and the liquor do gelly, and that you see the Apples look very
clear, and as though they were transparent. You must put the juyce of two
Limons and half an Orange to this in the due time. Every Pippin should be
lapped over in a broad-pill of Orange; which you must prepare thus. Pare
your Orange broad and very thin, and all hanging together, rub it with
Salt, prick it, and boil it in several waters, to take away the bitterness,
and make it tender. Then preserve it by it self with sufficient quantity of
Sugar. When it is throughly done, and very tender (which you must cast to
do before hand, to be ready when the Apples are ready to be put up) take
them out of their Syrup, and lap every Pippin in an Orange-peel, and put
them into a pot or glass, and pour the liquor upon them: which will be
gelly over and about the Apples, when all is cold. This proportion of
liquor, Apples, and Orange-peels, will take up about three quarters of a
pound of Sugar in all. If you would keep them any time, you must put in
weight for weight of Sugar.
I conceive Apple-John's in stead of Pippins will do better, both for the
gelly and Syrup; especially at the latter end of the year; and I like them
thin sliced, rather than whole; and the Orange-peels scattered among them
in little pieces or chipps.
SYRUP OF PIPPINS
Quarter and Core your Pippins; then stamp them in a Mortar, and strain out
the Juyce. Let it settle, that the thick dregs may go to the bottom; then
pour off the clear; and to have it more clear and pure, filter it through
sucking Paper in a glass funnel. To one pound of this take one pound and an
half of pure double refined Sugar, and boil it very gently (scarce
simpringly, and but a very little while) till you have scummed away all the
froth and foulness (which will be but little) and that it be of the
consistence of Syrup. If you put two pound of Sugar to one pound of juyce,
you must boil it more & stronglier. This will keep longer, but the colour
is not so fine. It is of a deeper yellow. If you put but equal parts of
juyce and Sugar, you must not boil it, but set it in a _Cucurbite in
bulliente Balneo_, till all the scum be taken away, and the Sugar well
dissolved. This will be very pale and pleasant, but will not keep long.
You may make your Syrup with a strong decoction of Apples in water (as when
you make gelly of Pippins) when they are green; but when they are old and
mellow, the substance of the Apple will dissolve into pap, by boiling in
water.
Take three or four spoonfuls of this Syrup in a large draught of fountain
water, or small posset-Ale, _pro ardore urinæ_ to cool and smoothen, two or
three times a day.
GELLY OF PIPPINS OR JOHN-APPLES
Cut your Apples into quarters (either pared or unpared). Boil them in a
sufficient quantity of water, till it be very strong of the Apples. Take
the clear liquor, and put to it sufficient Sugar to make gelly, and the
slices of Apple; so boil them all together, till the slices be enough, and
the liquor gelly; or you may boil the slices, in Apple-liquor without
Sugar, and make gelly of other liquor, and put the slices into it, when it
is gelly, and they be sufficiently boiled. Either way, you must put at the
last some juyce of Limon to it; and Amber and Musk if you will. You may do
it with halves or quartered Apples, in deep glasses, with store of gelly
about them. To have these clear, take the pieces out of the gelly they are
boiled in, with a slice, so as you may have all the rags run from them, and
then put neat clean pieces into clear gelly.
PRESERVED WARDENS
Pare and Core the Wardens, and put a little of the thin rind of a Limon
into the hole that the Core leaveth. To every pound of Wardens, take half a
pound of Sugar, and half a pint of water. Make a Syrup of your Sugar and
Water; when it is well scummed, put it into a Pewter dish, and your Wardens
into the Syrup, and cover it with another Pewter dish; and so let this boil
very gently, or rather stew, keeping it very well covered, that the steam
get out as little as may be. Continue this, till the Wardens are very
tender, and very red, which may be in five, or six, or seven hours. Then
boil them up to the height the Syrup ought to be to keep: which yet will
not be well above three or four months. The whole secret of making them
red, consisteth in doing them in Pewter, which spoileth other preserves,
and in any other mettal these will not be red. If you will have any Amber
in them, you may to ten or twelve pounds of Wardens, put in about twenty
grains of Amber, and one, or at most, two grains of Musk, ground with a
little Sugar, and so put in at the last. Though the Wardens be not covered
over with the Syrup in the stewing by a good deal, yet the steam, that
riseth and cannot get out, but circulateth, will serve both to stew them,
and to make them red and tender.
SWEET MEAT OF APPLES
My Lady Barclay makes her fine Apple-gelly with slices of John apples.
Sometimes she mingles a few Pippins with the John's to make the Gelly. But
she liketh best the John's single, and the colour is paler. You first fill
the glass with slices round-wise cut, and then the Gelly is poured in to
fill up the vacuities. The Gelly must be boiled to a good stiffness. Then
when it is ready to take from the fire, you put in some juyce of Limon, and
of Orange too, if you like it: but these must not boil; yet it must stand a
while upon the fire stewing in good heat, to have the juyces Incorporate
and Penetrate well. You must also put in some Ambergreece, which doth
exceeding well in this sweet-meat.
A FLOMERY-CAUDLE
When Flomery is made and cold, you may make a pleasant and wholesome caudle
of it, by taking some lumps and spoonfuls of it, and boil it with Ale and
White wine, then sweeten it to your taste with Sugar. There will remain in
the Caudle some lumps of the congealed flomery, which are not ungrateful.
PLEASANT CORDIAL TABLETS, WHICH ARE VERY COMFORTING, AND STRENGTHEN NATURE
MUCH
Take four ounces of blanched Almonds; of Pine kernels, and of Pistachios,
_ana_, four Ounces. Erin-go-roots, Candid-Limon peels, _ana_, three Ounces,
Candid Orange peels two Ounces, Candid Citron-peels four Ounces, of powder
of white Amber, as much as will lie upon a shilling; and as much of the
powder of pearl, 20 grains of Ambergreece, three grains of Musk, a book of
leaf gold, Cloves and Mace, of each as much as will lie upon a three pence;
cut all these as small as possible you can. Then take a pound of Sugar, and
half a pint of water, boil it to a candy-height, then put in the
Ambergreece and Musk, with three or four spoonfulls of Orange flower water.
Then put in all the other things and stir them well together, and cast them
upon plates, and set them to dry: when both sides are dry, take
Orange-flower-water and Sugar, and Ice them.
TO MAKE HARTS-HORN GELLY
Take four Ounces of Harts-horn rasped, boil it in four pound of water, till
it will be a gelly, which you may try upon a plate (it will be so, in four
or five or six hours gentle boiling) and then pass the clear liquor from
the horn (which will be a good quart) then set it on the fire again with
fine Sugar in it to your taste; when that is dissolved (or at the same time
you put that in) put half a pound of white-wine or Sack into it, and a bag
of Spice, containing a little Ginger, a stick of Cinnamon bruised, a Nutmeg
quartered, two or three Cloves, and what other Spice you like, but Pepper.
As soon as it beginneth to boil, put into it the whites of three or four
Eggs beaten, and let it boil up gently, till the Eggs harden into a curd.
Then open it with a spoon, and pour into it the juyce of three or four
good Limons; then take it presently off the fire, letting it not boil more
above a walm: Then run it through a Hippocras bag, putting spirit of
Cinnamon, or of Ambergreece, or what you please to it.
For gelly of flesh you proceed in the same manner, with a brawny Capon or
Cock, and a rouelle of Veal (first skinned, and soaked from the blood) in
stead of Harts-horn: and when the broth will gelly, do as above, using a
double or treble proportion of wine. Boil no Salt in it at first, for that
will make the gelly black.
HARTS-HORN GELLY
Take a pound of Harts-horn, and boil it in five quarts of water, until it
come to three pints, then strain it through a sieve or strainer, and so let
it stand, until it be cold; and according to the strength you may take more
or less of the following Ingredients. First, take your stock of gelly, &
put it into a skillet or pipkin with a pound of fine loaf Sugar, and set it
over a fire of Charcoal; and when it begins to boil, put in a pint or more
of Rhenish-wine. Then take the whites of Eggs six or eight, beaten very
well, with three or four spoonfuls of Rose-water, and put into the gelly.
Then take two grains of Amber, and one grain of Musk, and put thereto, so
let it boil a quarter of an hour, but not too violent; Then put in three or
four spoonfuls of Cinnamon-water, with the juyce of seven or eight Limons;
boil it one walm more, and run it very hot through your gelly-bag; this
done, run it again as cool and softly as you can into your Glasses and
Pots.
TO MAKE HARTS-HORN GELLY
Take a pound of Harts-horn, and a prety big lean Chicken, and put it into a
skillet with about nine quarts of water, and boil your stock prety stiff,
so that you may cut it with a knife; you may try it in a spoon, as it is a
boiling. Then drain your liquor clear away from the Harts-horn through a
fine searse, and let it stand until the next morning; Then if there be any
fat upon it, pare it away, and likewise the settlings at the bottom. Then
put your Gelly into a good big skillet, and put to it a quart of the palest
white-wine that you can procure, or a quart of Rhenish-wine, and one pound
of double refined Sugar, and half an Ounce of Cinnamon broken into small
pieces, with three or four flakes of Mace. Then set it upon the fire, and
boil it a good pace. Then have the whites of sixteen Eggs beaten to a high
froth; so put in the froth of your Eggs, and boil it five or six Walms;
then put in the juyce of six Limons, and boil it a little while after, and
then run it into a silver bason through your gelly-bag: and keep it warm by
the fire, until it have run through the second time. You must observe to
put but a very little into your bag at a time for the second running, that
it may but little more then drop; and it will be so much the clearer: and
you must not remove the whites of Eggs nor Spice out of the bag, all the
while it is running. And if the weather be hot, you need not put in so much
wine; for it will not then be so apt to gelly as in cold weather.
ANOTHER WAY TO MAKE HARTS-HORN-GELLY
Take a small Cock-chick, when it is scalded, slit it in two pieces, lay it
to soak in warm water, until the blood be well out of it. Then take a
calves foot half boiled, slit it in the middle and pick out the fat and
black of it. Put these into a Gallon of fair-water; skim it very well; Then
put into it one Ounce of Harts-horn, and one Ounce of Ivory. When it is
half consumed, take some of it up in a spoon; and if it gelly, take it all
up, and put it into a silver bason, or such a Pewter one as will endure
Char-coal. Then beat four whites of Eggs, with three or four spoonfuls of
Damask-Rose-water very well together. Then put these into the gelly, with a
quarter of an Ounce of Cinnamon broken into very small pieces; one flake of
Mace; three or four thin slices of Ginger; sweeten it with loaf Sugar to
your liking; set it then over a chafing dish of coals; stir it well, and
cover it close; blow under it, until there arise a scum or curd; let it
boil a little, then put into it one top of Rose-mary, two or three of sweet
Marjoram; wring into it the juyce of half a Limon; let not your curd fall
again, for it will spoil the clearness of the gelly. If you will have it
more Cordial, you may grind in a Sawcer, with a little hard Sugar, half a
grain of Musk, a grain of Ambergreece. It must be boiled in an earthen
pipkin, or a very sweet Iron-pot, after the Harts-horn and Ivory is in it.
It must constantly boil, until it gellieth. If there arise any scum, it
must be taken off.
MARMULATE OF PIPPINS
Take the quickest Pippins, when they are newly gathered, and are sharp;
Pare and Core and cut them into half quarters. Put to them their weight of
the finest Sugar in Powder, or broken into little pieces. Put upon these in
your preserving pan, as much fountain water, as will even cover them. Boil
them with a quick-fire, till by trying a little upon a Plate, you find it
gellieth. When it is cold (which may be in less then half an hour) then
take it from the fire, and put into it a little of the yellow rind of
Limons rasped very small, and a little of the Yellow rinde of Oranges
boiled tender (casting away the first waters to correct their bitterness)
and cut into narrow slices (as in the gelly of Pippins) and some
Ambergreece, with a fourth part of Musk, and break the Apples with the back
of your preserving spoon, whiles it cooleth. If you like them sharper, you
may put in a little juyce of Limon, a little before you take the pan from
the fire. When it is cold, put it into pots. This will keep a year or two.
Try if the juyce of Apples (strained out of rasped Apples) in such sort, as
you make Marmulate of Quinces, with the juyce of Quinces, would not be
better, then fair-water, to boil your Apples and Sugar in.
GELLY OF QUINCES
My last Gelly of Quinces I made thus. The Quinces being very ripe, and
having been long gathered, I took the flesh of twelve Quinces in quarters,
and the juyce of fifteen or sixteen others, which made me two pounds of
juyce; And I made a strong decoction of about twenty four others, adding
to these twenty four (to make the decoction the stronger, and more slimy)
the Cores and the Parings of the twelve in quarters; and I used the Cores
sliced and Parings of all these. All this boiled about an hour and half in
eight or ten pound of water; Then I strained and pressed out the decoction
(which was a little viscous, as I desired) and had between 4 and five pound
of strong decoction. To the decoction and Syrup, I put three pound of pure
Sugar, which being dissolved and scummed, I put in the flesh, and in near
an hour of temperate boiling (covered) and often turning the quarters, it
was enough. When it was cold, it was store of firm clear red gelly,
environing in great quantity the quarters, that were also very tender and
well penetrated with the Sugar. I found by this making, that the juyce of
Quinces is not so good to make gelly. It maketh it somewhat running like
Syrup, and tasteth sweetish, mellowy, syrupy.
The Decoction of the flesh is only good for Syrup. I conceive, it would be
a grateful sweetmeat to mingle a good quantity of good gelly with the
Marmulate, when it is ready to put into pots. To that end they must both be
making at the same time: or if one be a little sooner done then the other,
they may be kept a while warm (fit to mingle) without prejudice. Though the
Gelly be cold and settled, it will melt again with the warmth of the
Marmulate, and so mingle with it, and make a Marmulate, that will appear
very gellyish; or peradventure it may be well to fill up a pot or glass
with gelly, when it is first half filled with Marmulate a little cooled.
PRESERVED QUINCE WITH GELLY
When I made Quinces with Gelly, I used the first time these proportions; of
the decoction of Quinces three pound; of Sugar one pound three quarters;
Flesh of Quince two pound and an half; The second time these, of decoction
two pound and an half, Sugar two pound and a quarter, Of flesh two pound
three quarters. I made the decoction by boyling gently each time a dozen or
fourteen Quinces in a Pottle of water, an hour and a half, or two hours, so
that the decoction was very strong of the Quinces. I boiled the parings
(which for that end were pared very thick, after the Quinces were well
wiped) with all the substance of the Quince in thick slices, and part of
the Core (excepting all the Kernels) and then let it run through a loose
Napkin, pressing gently with two plates, that all the decoction might come
out; but be clear without any flesh or mash. The first making I intended
should be red; and therefore both the decoction, and the whole were boiled
covered, and it proved a fine clear red. This boiled above an hour, when
all was in. The other boiled not above half an hour, always uncovered (as
also in making his decoction) and the Gelly was of a fine pale yellow. I
first did put the Sugar upon the fire with the decoction, and as soon as it
was dissolved, I put in the flesh in quarters and halves; and turned the
pieces often in the pan; else the bottom of such as lay long unturned,
would be of a deeper colour then the upper part. The flesh was very tender
and good. I put some of the pieces into Jar-glasses (carefully, not to
break them,) and then poured gelly upon them. Then more pieces, then more
gelly, &c. all having stood a while to cool a little.
TO MAKE FINE WHITE GELLY OF QUINCES
Take Quinces newly from the tree, fair and sound, wipe them clean, and boil
them whole in a large quantity of water, the more the better, and with a
quick fire, till the Quinces crack and are soft, which will be in a good
half hour, or an hour. Then take out the Quinces, and press out their
juyce, with your hands hard, or gently in a press through a strainer, that
only the clear liquor or juyce run out, but none of the pap, or solid and
fleshy substance of the Quince. (The water, they were boiled in, you may
throw away.) This liquor will be slimy and mucilaginous, which proceedeth
much from the seeds that remaining within the Quinces, do contribute to
making this Liquor. Take three pound of it, and one pound of fine Sugar,
and boil them up to a gelly, with a moderate fire, so that they boil every
where, but not violently. They may require near an hours boiling to come to
a gelly. The tryal of that is, to take a tin or silver plate, and wet it
with fair-water, and drop a little of the boiling juyce upon the wet plate;
if it stick to the plate, it is not enough; but if it fall off (when you
slope the Plate) without sticking at all to it, then is it enough: and then
you put it into flat shallow Tin forms, first wetted with cold water, and
let it stand in them four or five hours in a cold place, till it be quite
cold. Then reverse the plates, that it may shale and fall out, and so put
the parcels up in boxes.
Note, you take fountain water, and put the Quinces into it, both of them
being cold. Then set your Kettle to boil with a very quick-fire, that
giveth a clear smart flame to the bottom of the Kettle, which must be
uncovered all the while, that the gelly may prove the whiter; And so
likewise it must be whiles the juyce or expression is boiling with the
Sugar, which must be the finest, that it may not need clarifying with an
Egg; but that little scum that riseth at the sides at the beginning of
moderate boiling must be scummed away. You let your juyce or expression
settle a while, that if any of the thick substance be come out with it, it
may settle to the bottom; for you are to use for this only the clear juyce:
which to have it the clearer, you may let it run through a large, thin,
open, strainer, without pressing it. When you boil the whole Quinces, you
take them out, to strain them as soon as their skins crack, and that they
are quite soft; which will not happen to them all at the same time, but
according to their bigness and ripeness. Therefore first take out and press
those, that are ready first: and the rest still as they grow to a fit state
to press. You shall have more juyce by pressing the Quinces in a torcular,
but it will be clearer, doing it with your hands; both ways, you lap them
in a strainer.
WHITE MARMULATE, THE QUEENS WAY
Take a pound and an half of flesh of Quinces sliced, one pound of Sugar,
and one pound of Liquor (which is a decoction made very strong of Quinces
boiled in fair water). Boil these with a pretty quick fire, till they be
enough, and that you find it gellieth. Then proceed as in my way.
MY LADY OF BATH'S WAY
Take six pounds of flesh of Quince, and two pound of Sugar moistened well
with juyce of Quinces. Boil these together in a fit kettle; first gently,
till the Liquor be sweated out from the quince, and have dissolved all the
Sugar; Then very quick and fast, proceeding as in my way, (bruising the
Quinces with a spoon, &c.) till it be enough. This will be very fine and
quick in taste; but will not keep well beyond Easter. In this course you
may make Marmulate without any juyce or water (by the meer sweeting of the
flesh) if you be careful, proceeding slowly till juyce enough be sweated
out, least else it burn to; and then quick, that the flesh may be boiled
enough, before the Moisture be evaporated away.
PASTE OF QUINCES
Take a quart of the juyce of Quince, and when it is on the fire, put into
it, pared, quartered and Cored as much Quince, as the juyce will cover;
when it is boiled tender, pass the Liquor through a sieve & put the pulp
into a stone Mortar, and beat it very fine with a Woodden Pestel; then
weigh it, and to every pound of pulp, take a quarter of a pound of loaf
Sugar, and boil it up to a candy-height in some of the juyce, which you
passed through the sieve; then put therein your pulp, stirring it well
together, till it hath had one boil and no more; Then drop it on glasses,
or spread it on plates, and set it to dry.
Into the juyce that remains, you may put more flesh of Quinces, and boil it
tender, doing all as at the first. Then adding it (beaten to pulp in a
Mortar) unto the former pulp; repeating this, till you have taken up all
your juyce. Then put your proportion of Sugar to the whole quantity of
pulp, and so make it up into paste, and dry it, and sometimes before a
gentle fire, sometimes in a very moderate stove.
PASTE OF QUINCES WITH VERY LITTLE SUGAR
To one pound of flesh or solid substance of Quinces (when they are pared,
cored, and quartered,) take but a quarter of double refined Sugar. Do thus,
scald your flesh of Quinces in a little of the juyce of other Quinces, that
they may become tender, as if they were coddled.
Then beat them in a mortar to a subtle uniform smooth pulp (which you may
pass through a searce.) In the mean time let your Sugar be dissolved, and
boiling upon the fire. When it is of a candy-height, put the pulp of Quince
to it, and let it remain a little while upon the fire, till it boil up one
little puff or bubbling, and that it is uniformly mixed with the Sugar; you
must stir it well all the while. Then take it off, and drop it into little
Cakes, or put it thin into shallow glasses which you may afterwards cut
into slices. Dry the cakes and slices gently and by degrees in a stove,
turning them often. These will keep all the year, and are very quick of
taste.
ANOTHER PASTE OF QUINCES